We're about to make a burger flipper, it could be used for cooking your bacon frying your eggs could be used for just about anything you could use it for lifting different things and serving food with but I wanted to make one I've made this one this is a large version of the one that we're going to be making this one is 13 inches long we're going to start out with a piece of wood three-quarters of an inch thick could be seven-eighths could be an inch whatever you want you get more uplift on the handle the thicker material but I'm going with three-quarter inch material I've got mine mapped out on one side I'm going to show you how I mapped it out on your side first of all let's do the layout four and three quarters from the end of your piece of wood make a mark like that, square that line across here like this and that will line up with the one you've made on this side you may not need to do it on both sides I think it's advantageous to square that line down this face just a little bit like this and then from there measure five-eighths of an inch like this that just gives it a little bit more distance what we're going to do is we're going to come down here going to come up here half an inch from this bottom edge this is the underside of my burger flipper here so I'm going to come up half an inch here like this and then I'm going to drop the line down I want to come up 3/16 of an inch that's 3/16 just check yourself if you're uncertain there we r 3/16 and unite these two lines like that you've got your 5/8 here this is the start of this underside here so we're going to come up here like this here what I suggest here is that you have about 3/8 of an inch here which should be plenty strong enough and just bring the line along here and then just arc align a curve in here like this that will just give you the start and then we're going to come 3/16 up here so we had 3/16 here 3/16 here once you have your arc form just trace a line there like that straight lines and there you can see what we have what we are going to have on this top side then is we're going to create a curve here like this that's going to be the resolution the transition from one level to another that's our basic outline so I've got it on both sides of my piece of wood I've struck a line line across the end to draw those two together and I struck a line across the end here to bring these two together so you could use this I mean you could use these lines to guide you now for a crosscut here and the crosscut somewhere in here is not going to be on this line here what we want to create is a break line between the transition this one and the transition to this one here we're going to put it at the bottom of this arc so we want a line across here and this is purely for stop cutting to stop us from splitting through this narrow section here so what do I do I have to choose now I'm going to saw down this face and then chop into this one think I'm going to do my cross cut line first just with a finer saw I've got my dovetail saw here, the important thing with this is not to go below the depth line so if anything stay just a tad above it I'm going to work from this side to set on my saw, there's that and now I'm going to saw down here so with it being such a wide piece in a longer piece gonna go here first I'm going to go with a handsaw this has got 10 points to the inch, it's a rip cut so I'm getting my square across line first now I'm going to follow the line on this side look at this side and see how we doing here good I'm using cherry here, cherry is great for a cooking wood just got good tight close grain with no toxins in it, so it's great listen for the sound here at the closeout when it two cut lines are going to meet, the vertical meets the horizontal, squeeze here just to add a little bit of friction and then site in the underside of your saw teeth with this cut line I'm there, little extra depths we go so there we have a spatula coming together the burger flipper I want to clean this face-up, I'm going to use a rasp, I have a rasp but if you don't have a rasp you can use sandpaper I'm just going to go into this corner here first I just want to a nice crisp clean face and I reach for my number 4, circular motion like this fine set an auto fine set and make sure as always that you have sharpened up your plane before you start this As with most projects that's a great place to start take out any saw kerf left by that saw there I have, it's a good face I still have a little bit to do what would I do with that next I might reach for something like this is a scraper, just to take any extra marks like this can see those shavings coming off so that's giving me a pristine surface and I can get tight into the corner with the hook on that edge now this is as smooth as 1200 sandpaper is probably as smooth as I could get it this is the underside so now I'm going to do this top section here again a good sharp one inch chisel is plenty good enough lay the chisel onto the surface make sure the whole of the width is connected this I can tell you that this is a complete shaving across here that means I'm parallel to the surface take off the bulk move across one, follow the same arcing, and move across one again now we're going to follow that line so I'm happy that I'm close to where I want to be here so I'm going part way across and elevate the chisel, that felt pretty good I'm right in on the saw kerf here and I can follow this yeah and this here like this and this surface is glinting, it's as smooth as silk I can feel a little tiny bit of a facet see this you should be able to get this close to the finish line you want, that feels very nice so here is my last little tweak and right on that saw kerf and you can see the advantage of me using the rasp or the sand paper to get this area level first excuse me that's just the dust, don't write in please okay there you go little bit of cleanup here, hand pressure, arm pressure upper body exercise breathing everything comes in here and there is your transition from one level to the next you can go with a spokeshave now like this just go across the grain like this work it around this is pretty good so now I back off the cutting edge that, this is where the scraper plays its part again, down into that corner and then from here you can go right into your joint line and pull into joint line and pull and you get this perfect transition right in the corner there and we've got that basic lower platform there for the burger flipper so we have to do the handle next so this time we're going to cut across here because this is the bottom of the valley remember maybe you don't remember but this you watch this and see what happens now get rid of that we don't need him, just a tenon saw for this cross cut incut I'm going down on my side near to the line not into it okay why am I doing it this way I could've just sawn it but I just want to use a different method because it's just an alternative you can do it this way you could have done the other side this way as well but we're going to use the start cut method for practice but I could have just sawn this and it would have been just fine until I go for the kerf I have enough stop cuts in but I have to really read the grain this time so I'm going to start here halfway down to my depth line ok that straight grain so I'm happy with that I'm going to turn this around, you remember I said I didn't go down to my depth line on this side yet I'm going to do this side from this side I think I prefer the sawn method but stop cuts are a good practice right so we know that that's straight grain so I'm going to go this time with my bevel down and I'm split cutting I'm gonna have a look at this side make sure I'm still parallel, I am still parallel can you see there so I'm still parallel on that so now I'm pretty sure the midsection will be, if this was a different wood I wouldn't be so confident And now I bevel down again into the valley the grains doing fine, here I'm going to go halfway up I want to make sure that grain doesn't suddenly nosedive on me, it didn't, make sure that you're working parallel to this surface here as you work down here, that's great so now I'm going to try again here, I might go halfway up again just to make sure that was perfect and this last bit I have to be very careful with, I'm going to take some out up here you, can you see how that nosedive there, it went down slightly think I'm better coming from your side I'm going to take the top top area off first here a little bit at a time, bevel down with your chisel because you want to ride that bevel and start following the cove here so you use a little bit of leverage to make the arcing and while I'm this height still way above I'm going to split cut here take off some of the top pressure just keep working down until you get to the height you're looking for, here be careful, now we're going to be cutting some of this out this midsection is the most important, this is this section here so we are actually going to be removing the outer flanks and leaving the midsection inside there so this is the most importantly but as long as you can keep working parallel to the surface like this and I'm not going to worry too much about this area yet because we're actually going to be using the spokeshave watch here now I'm going with my bevel up can see that you can still create a cove-cut with the bevel up and you are likely to get a smoother cut because no matter how well you sharpen your chisel ultimately you end up with a very very finest of microbevels on this side just through where that's why this works so beautifully that's very smooth so that's what I want and now here I'm gonna go with my bevel down and ride the bevel we really carving with a one-inch chisel here that's really what we're doing so I think I'm close enough on this here that's my actual drawing so I'm going to shape this now I want to find the middle of this here, so this is two and three eighths 13 16 is half of our distance there for that distance then I want to shape my handle and I don't want too wide I tend to have fairly large hands so I'm going to come here and I want this transition here this line here I want to transition in here like this, it meets that somewhere there see that long enough handle how would you cut that well you may want to do it with a stop cut method, I'm going to go for the coping and I'll explain why in a minute now you probably can guess the reason why this was the cut here, I flip this over to the outside face here and I have a perfect matching template for this side here if I didn't stop cut I would've lost all that so I'm gonna I'm gonna hand saw this I'm going to chisel cut it how am I going to do it i think I'm going to again just purely for your benefit that, take a look see if I can do this so you can see it so I'm going to take my one inch chisel will take out the bulk of this waste not sure if I would do this from this direction purely because I would rather be chiseling this way but just so you can see take as much of the top out as you can and work down towards your line this is wonderful for your kids all the kid in us, I'll have to turn this around this way because I want to muscle this here a little bit more now I might move like I've done here to arm upper arm pressure level down beveled out the moment I can see the medullary right you get medullary raising in cherry that is just beautiful and I can see them here as I'm working I ride the bevel to get that smooth transition down to the very bottom that make saw cut a bevel up this time flip over you are feeling for this grain and you will ultimately feel how this is working best, I need a little more in here yet we're close enough there so what do we do here we could saw down there and this is a good test for the strength of your spatula, don't overshoot like I just did pretty close great Christmas presents these, gifts for newly married all kinds of things just to sell them really now it's getting close closer shaping the handle this is the next bit I've got a little bit here to reconcile this is where the saw from the coping saw didn't do as well as the chisel so I've got to get this cleaned up here that cove cut, just clean it up here good sharp chisel gets most of it, you could use a rasp like this and that would work but you'd have more sanding to do after but you could use the rasp if you've got high spots you're coping saw work wasn't perfect you could go in with a rasp like this or a piece of sander, sand paper wrapped around the stick like that and that can preface the use of your chisel like this cuz now you don't have undulation you working with and this will give you that smooth line and convinced this gives me the pristine cut if I'm careful and I'm looking for, you see in there for me this is just shining back at me it's just giving me a big old smile back then my spokeshave comes in this is good especially if you're learning about grain and you want to see here I'm going into the end grain and it's tearing it's going against me so I come back this way flip over and do a pull on here like this so you're reading the grain you're working with the grain not against it this is smooth again going down this long reach here this was saw kerf here so I'm letting the front aspect of my flat bottom spokeshave just hit that rise there so it's lifting it away from the work so I've got very smooth transition here I do have some undulation here from my first chisel work that I have to create this one is corrected remember if you don't have a rasp use sand paper wrapped round a broom handle or make a cove whatever works for you, little vibrate in there but then bevel down I think, ride that bevel down into the cove and this is the most difficult spot where you usually meet this straight grain try not to gouge in so I've got good tight grip on my handle I've got an overhand grip here it's not really gripping more evening out the pressure I'm very happy with what I've got there now it transitions beautifully if it doesn't shoot for your scraper and pull that into use, watch your chisel don't let that gouge your hand, you'll be doing first aid there we go that's my shaping done so I've got my overall with shape I've got the spatula part dealt with this underside here this is the bottom edge and this is the part when it hits the frying pan or it hits the griddle this is going to be down so I'm going to put a little flat on here this strengthens this edge I don't want a thick edge like this just put this in the vise you can use either a spokeshave like this and that works almost don't want to change because I've got a rhythm going but you could use this too you can use your plane and as long as you skewed if you go straight across this will definitely break out if you've got the skewed like this you should be fine and go to a chisel point on here if you don't want to go all the way out to this top edge flip over and do a smaller micro bevel this is where, just go on this side a little micro bevel it's not so little is it I've got the edge that I want here i would sand this, I'm not doing any sanding yet but I would sand this to a very small radius and there I'm right down in the frying pan right down on the griddle flipping my burger ok so the next thing is to just shake the handle I'm going tight into that corner so I get a good grip so work your radius like this down into the valley if there is a valley this is going to be a pull stroke here now this is going to go past the line onto this side so I'm making the radius now I want hand comfort here and see that, same this one here 45 degrees at first and then when you've got a good wide 45 degrees maybe 3/8 wide at the most start to arc it over towards the center line like this little bit of a hump here want to get rid of spokeshave is a wonderful tool to master there is my top and decide next this is why I said these didn't really matter at this stage because we can take this down with the spokeshave now now this is gonna feel comfortable already here belly and this is where you have to have this relax muscle just to lean in here if you have it use a pillow, no no, it is handy I'm gonna have admit relax muscle I love this kind of project my children have worked with me through their formative years in woodworking making these very same items there's nothing like it for working with the children especially when you realize you're not really teaching them how to make a burger flipper you're teaching them how to carve the neck of a violin or a guitar this is close to what I want it's a nice little tool little bit more on this underside here I still have enough meat in here I think to clump this here so I've got another saw kerf down there that I need to get rid of this so bit by bit yielded still a little bit there so I'm gonna go with this scraper there we've got it so you can work as much as you like right into the end grain, I know it's a nasty sound like this if the scraper is sharp it will take off the shavings I can do in here and it'll make that super smooth if you don't have that use sand paper on a contoured stick a broom handle a piece of the broom handle anything like that and I'm pretty happy with that do I want to take off these corners here I may do bevel down just carefully always cutting away from your hands away from your body never towards it that's safety so I'm riding the bevel on there just to take that out you could just sand it but we are there is my burger flipper so all I have to do now is sand this which is very fast go straight with 150 grit and then to 240, what have I got here 150 take out any undulation is left from the tool work if you want them out you may want them in I think i like them in but I know children love to sand and they feel great when they're taking their spatula into the house then giving it to one of their favorite people so it's 150 is good actually this is roughening the surface which isn't really what I wanted but get the kids sanding and they love it then onto the cove here with your fingers go across the grain, it's end grain anyway take out the undulation, take out the toolmarks soft and everything this is feeling super super slick what you'll do with this when you've done is you will soak it just a little bit not soak it just spray a water bottle, a spray of water onto it leave it to dry sand it again that will stop the grain rising in after when you start washing this after use and that's my spatula smooth smooth little bit of oil kind of mineral oil, I think twice pressed virgin oil is probably best, olive oil oh no it doesn't matter really just cooking oil anything like that because it really doesn't need anything it just looks nice when you first make it there you go one burger flipper
What did he put on his saw to make it cut smoother? Did he say "salt"? At around 4:40.