DIY Portable BandSaw Stand - Using Tig, Mig, Stick

here's another video of welding tips and tricks' calm today I'm building a stand for this Porter band it's portable bandsaw it's a porter cable and I guess it's the original Porter band brand name but anyway I don't see many stands uh built for this particular kind swag off-road builds a really good one for a Milwaukee and Dewalt but my friend had this one we haven't used it much so he wants to span and I want to want to stand to be able to use it I'll probably get a Milwaukee and get one of those swag off-road models but I want to stand that I can just set it down in and take it out so I can use it for portable and you know I don't want to have to undo any any screws or anything like that I want to be able to take it in and out and use it now this one's got my cast aluminum body with stiffer two ribs in it I was a little bit fearful of making any kind of clamping mechanism and possibly cracking in the body popping that so I made it just where it slipped in had a bunch of 3/8 inch round stock laying around and some extra inch and a half square tubing and that's predominantly what this thing's made of so just using that 3/8 stock just uh making some stops where this thing would slip down and rest against on one side because it's kind of all flat on one side and making a new like a tool rest platform thing at a thicker steel then the chintzy one that comes with it and that's really all there is to it but kind of took me a long time I don't think I would do it over again if I hadn't you know could buy one but there's not one available for this that I could find anyway so I built it and it turned out to be pretty useful and the first thing to do is take off the little tool rest stop that comes with it and figure out how to fabricate one that's thicker and better and a little bit more substantial but still works so that's what I did I just started out with a piece of quarter-inch bar stock quarter inch by 3/4 and located drilled a hole square that when the rest sits on there the weight is supported by this little dealio and also little block here so it's not all supported by those little screws there because those are just to like you know something like a ten by twenty four or ten by thirty two type screw or something they're not very substantial anyway so then got a couple of pieces two inch two inch wide bar stock just kind of get an idea of how the how the rest would go on there so okay that's going to work and I can well to this bar stock so then I cut a piece of cardboard kind of lay up there and get a better visual on how the whole thing would go together and where it would weld and if it would work and what it looked like and all that little cardboard temporary just a rough template and so that seemed to be about the right size and found a piece of quarter-inch stock quarter inch by four stock laying around it was close enough without having to trim it even further and I cut a slit in it with a big horizontal band slaw band saw about slaw but saw and a little wider blade than what this one's got and then set it on there and with the right area and then got some tacks on it from quick put a little guard over the where the fan motor is and this thing keep from getting sparks in there got a couple tacks on it and took it off and weld it up now we don't want to well this thing's solid because remember one it doesn't need that much weld and number two it's a warp it I want it to stay good and flat so I just put some good tack you know half-inch three-quarter wells on the ends and then radius to all the corners divert it with a belt sander and then it's done trimmed off the excess bar stock I'm going to put it all together now and give it a little quick test run and before I am before I weld everything up on the stand itself I want to kind of make sure everything is going to stay still and work and it seemed to work out pretty good it's a pretty good fit pretty good size if I was going to make a notice on a lot of knife maker forums people make these stands for you use portable band saws because they're working in their garage you don't have a lot of room and for the band is a lot easier to sit on the shelf and a big horizontal dance or a big vertical bandsaw for coping and shaping and things so got this thing all tape tacked together and ready to weld it up now so what's going to happen is when i weld all this up I don't have anything to restrain it so it's going to warp a little bit if I go this way it's going to pull this end around that way a little bit have to be aware of that and also if i weld all four sides going to pull it around but I don't really care the other thing I care about is it's flat I don't care if those corners come in like that that's not going to hurt anything but I don't want them to warp down or especially don't want to work up where it'll rock like a rocking chair or something like that so that's my main concern here so right now it's flat because I clamped it intact it to the flat the strong hand table here if I will these all the way around it's definitely going to bow and rock so I may have to put some feet on the four corners when I'm done I'm ready to do that either put rubber feet on it or just so weld some spacer pads some eighth inch stock on or whatever so I'm probably these uprights here probably not going to weld them all the way around they don't need it and welding all the way around just going to warp more and I don't really want to have to put the pads on on the four corners if I don't have to I'd rather just be done because I like four just set nice and flat on any table that I that I wanted and just clamp it off with a quick clamp see clamp or something like that so I've got a spacer bar here that's just got tax on all four corners that's about all that's going to get because all it is is just a spacer to keep the handle up off the table I don't want to weld any more than I have to because it's just going to work more if I put more well than it needs so I'll probably just well these sides and and and call it good on these uprights just right right there and leave the knee of the other sides open they don't really have it be just it's just going to basically support the weight of the saw just a little cradle for the saw to set in and if I weld all the way around again I'm just asking for trouble it's just going to bow it up and you know rock rocking-horse don't want that this little bar here is just a little another little support to wedge the saw in there I'm going to put some rubber tubing around it and I'm just going to put beef the tacks up a little bit on it and leave that alone so in other words I'm not going to well where it doesn't need weld and on all these little pieces of 3/8 round stock that I just tacked on there to kind of you know hold the thing in place I'm just going to beef up those tacks a little just put some extra tax on here and there because you know how big tax sometimes do on hot-rolled sometimes you think you got a good tack and it just pops loose because takes it a minute to heat up and burn through the hot rule of mill scale so I'm going to just weld on the very ends square it'll heat up good and just put a little bit of extra weld and but I'm not going to definitely not going to weld them all out solid just going to pop it here and there and that won't warp it that way the reason I use the 3/8 stock is just strictly because that's what that's what was laying around I had a lot of extra small pieces of that laying around is odd odds and ends I could have just as easily been a square stock or hex or anything like that would have worked but I just use I don't want to I didn't want to spend any money on this thing so I just use what I had and want to buy a bill of materials and and you know use a certain thing because it's just not necessary alright so I'm just going to again get more tax beefed up the ones on the ends where the corners will heat up good I know they'll burn in one small tax don't want to weld them all the way out because we're not doing a whole lot or just holding the thing in place checked everything already to make sure it's going to fit when I'm done I'm going to put some weather stripping inside for a kind of a vibration dampener and the tighten everything up probably some harder rubber than that would be better but I'm going to give the weather stripping in a shot so first off I'm going to do a little MIG on this thing I'm going to mix it up I'm going to do a little TIG MIG and stick but first off I'm going to do mig welding and mig would be definitely the way to go on this thing if all you had was a TIG that would be fine too or if all you had was a stick that beat that would work just fine too but you know it's only one étoile inch and a half square root tubing and MIG is going to be quicker and cleaner and everything but just for the sake of mixing it up I'm going to do all three one technique on MIG is just to scoot forward and pause in a straight line which is what I'm doing here with not much pull or push angle just pretty much straight in and that works pretty good it works pretty good and getting a little increment metering device on how to travel another way is just make a series of loops or curseth ease it also works very well you can pause at the top and kind of you know watch your undercut that way make sure to fill that in it also works pretty good next I'm going to use this little uh Power Pro 256 the TIG weld with a quarter inch cup because I'm almost out of gas off I'm only using like five to ten cfh I'm using 309 filler here that's the tip for hot rolled if you don't want to be welding something like this that's just a light-duty thing and you know you just don't want to spend the time of grinding clean 309 I'll kind of clean a weld up you know there's all kinds of arguments out there but you shouldn't do that as a rule but it'll be it'll be more than fine for this and it won't bubble and spit give me porosity and wells a little bit cleaner than the mild steel you send me material I'm just leaving the rod in here I'm using strictly torch switch and seven 125 amps and that's a little on need see the color minam heating up and swimming around so that didn't work out that great but it's fine it'll hold any time you weld it on hot rolled mill scale okay you're not going to get it's pretty well just doesn't float right watch the toes in the well near the hit you see all that stuff is more legging it's grainy that's oxidation and loads into the poem the chromium and stuff into 309 kind of helps cabbage that doesn't helps it well a little bit better uncle will get ferocity I thought you can get by with the e70 tick wire - but you know alright we're gonna do an old-school stick here he is that Lincoln know what happened to the clip here but I just couldn't make it run right this is a 1/16 a 60 13 rod this is what I don't like about 60 13s I had this thing 5 amps hotter than it then the max amperage so it should have fried in there real good a lot of times 60 13 if you're not careful you get a worm bed in the middle of a will to beat on one side and beat on the other and the worm bit of slag through the middle and that's a you know sometimes they do fine but it happens all the time I just don't like it so I ground it out and come back over with a 60 11 much more digging much more penetrating rod and that's a lot better they look a little rough when before you chip the slag a lot more spatter everything but that spatter rakes off really easily brushes off and then you got a decent well that you know is penetrated and for downhill you can't beat 260 11 s for downhill welding especially we have a little gap like this now these rods these are a quick strike rods are not a really high dollar rod you get in a Harbor Freight another discount places I picked these up in a little flea market tool place just a just for this video in fact but um they're inconsistent that first one tried to cut out on me this one did great did fine you can hear it keyhole and burning that gap but most 60 11 s do a little bit better than that wasn't real impressed with the quick strike brand now for a gap downhill well like that Nick that's what MIG welding really is just the way to go see how quick easy and clean this is that makes a nice well little wire brush and it would shine like new money not everybody's gotta me okay this is a close-up same downhill well and see that spatter building up in the nozzle it's that's going to get out of hand if I don't clean it out pretty soon and now we're going to do a regular um push action sometimes you can you can uh you have you have to push sometimes you have to pull and then one last actually this is uh just a straight drag with a pull angle big and then the very last joint here will be just using a little series of cursive ease again get a little pattern in there so I would never swap I would never use three different welding processes just for the sake of the video so I could you know four have more to talk about but we did some 6011 downhill some sixty eleven over some sixty 13 that crapped up some MIG welding you know the straight technique and a little tag with a 309 on this thing and now we're all done welding it put the weather stripping in it to tighten it up and I'm going to see if it fits kind of wedges in there nice and tight and the last thing is that to make this little receiver here otherwise just the body of the Saugus wasn't made where I can slide it down but after the fact I just put this thing in there and there you go put a little piece of rubber tubing on it it's good to go

Channel: weldingtipsandtricks

Views: 143,579

Rating: 4.9082751 out of 5

Keywords: portable band saw, portaband, tig welding tips, mig welding tips, stick welding tips, arc welding tips

Id: Y4kTUPB4HZM

Length: 14min 36sec (876 seconds)

Published: Thu Oct 13 2011