Hydraulic Shop Press Brake DIY Kit

here's another video from welding tips and tricks calm I've got a project going on and what it is it's a do-it-yourself kit it's a press break that's designed to be used with the Harbor Freight 20-ton hydraulic press you can get those presses $200 not even on sale and sometimes a as low as 160 something so a lot of hobbyist and off-road guys use the Harbor Freight stuff because they're not in production and it makes sense for them and so swag off-road designed it to be used with that press comes with a good set of instructions here and that is there is some assembly required so you got to put it together and weld it yourself if you've ever bought any IKEA furniture this is kind of alycome it's all designed to be packed nice and tight in a box and that's so they can ship it and it won't cost a fortune so let's get it all out and lay it on the table here there is one main difference in this and and IKEA furniture though and here it is yeah alright I'm going to take this thing step by step and go through each step so welding the guide rail rods these are the rods that the the male or the you know upper die travels on and so they well in these holes that are laser-cut and I want to open the holes up just a little bit and deburr them so I won't have to just beat on them to get them in there but the instructions say to tap them in halfway through so once I get a look get the holes opened up for it I won't have to work so hard to get them through I'll just tap them in with a hammer till they're roughly halfway through and that's about right reason halfway through it gives you room to get plenty of weld and then you're going to grind the weld off when you're done so we've got to get them square though because these are the things that that the RAM travels on and we don't want to bind it up as it goes up and down so that one's square we'll get attack on it just one tack so we make sure everything's cool and then when I got the other one squared up one of eyeball them to make sure they're square with one another and then I'll weld them up I think he's going round in circles here but purposes of filming and gun angle and all that aside he's got to go back and forth tying everything again I don't want a much much much weld on here because I am going to grind it off when I'm done the instructions say grind it all flush like this and that's because this is stress on this is the bottom that left on the stuff you don't want a teeter-totter and on well down there all right the next step is to well the top dye to the guide tubes you can see it does guide to this is no chancy stuff that's good like quarter wall tubing and it's good square cut and I got to make sure this blade though is sitting square before I do that and it's not because it's just hot rolled steel so I'm going to clamp it to this little modular fixturing block here to make sure it's good and square and then I'll just eyeball it from there I look right down it at the point and then just get a good eyeball on it because there is a little bit of slop and it doesn't this not a you know precision watch or anything but it needs to be close so once they get that all tacked up time to check it out don't want to weld it up without checking it and make sure everything fits a whole lot easier to cut attack loose and bump things around it is to cut a hole well loose so so far so good I'll weld that up now this first weld here I'll go ahead and bring it up you don't it looks kind of cold it didn't look nearly that cold from the other angle but from this angle if definitely looks like it's kind of piling up it's not quite as cold as it looks I've got the machine said actually hotter than what it recommended for you know for 3/16 or quarter inch or whatever was but you know just warming it up not even changing the settings and see this feat from a different angle looks a good bit hotter these are guide tubes no these are gonna have much stress on them anyway I don't want them to you know warp a whole lot everything okay now the next step is to weld the bottom piece together now that bottom piece consists of a piece of high-strength steel that's that's broke and this piece of angle and when it's all welded together it really makes for a rigid rigid bottom piece none of this stuff is heat treated or anything but that bottom piece is a high-strength steel and it's pretty stiff now that notch right there you must stay away from that because something goes in there later on so I welded just about an eighth inch from the end there so I didn't block that notch with any weld now I'm going to get two more tacks on the end here I know someone's going to comment that I don't have a glove on my right hand but I don't really care and we're going to check it out again now the guide tubes are all welded up and the posts are welded from the bottom and everything's still good the main thing that's where things are going to change is welding that whole bottom piece out I kind of suspected that that thing would would warp a little bit cuff upward and it did but not so much that I couldn't massage it out I decided after making one kind of long run there that I would do a lot of skip welding on this thing and just only well three or four inches at a time doing some backstep welding where I tie in to where I started on each previous bead kind of minimize morphing a little bit as much as possible so that's what I'm doing I'm just skipping around welding about three or four inches at a time it's going to make for a lot of little stops and starts I'm going to blend this weld off when I'm done anyway so that anything I'm bending won't drag on it and there it is it worked a little but again nothing I couldn't handle later on now we're going to weld the all thread into the backstop guide rails and the instructions say to just cut a slot with a chop saw or something I decided to use a porter band and there's specific dimensions on how far you need to let that all thread hang over the end and basically it's it's it's the nut plus the quarter inch against its quarter bottom piece and I kind of screwed up there at a brain fart and I'll probably go back and fix it but I just I'll explain it later all right the instructions say an inch and a half in make a mark and make the cut again I built this little stand for a porter cable Porter band a few weeks ago made a video about it and walk through that and for stuff like this he just comes in really handy and you could a drill I could have drilled about a 5/16 hole in here would have done just as well but just cutting a little fish mouth in there - well that all thread in to keep it from going anywhere was about the easiest way I can think of so that's what I did on each one of those and then I ground them off and where I screwed up is I forgot to got to leave enough thread hanging over so I only only had two or three threads catching that nut but for the sake of the video I'm driving on all right the next step is to kind of put everything together they put those tubes on the back stop stop tubes rails or whatever put the backstop on and then this side stop the side stop has a bunch of notches cut in it laser cut in it for basically just eyeballing even inch measurements in case you don't want to measure the backstop is mainly for you know doing repeatable stuff if you're going to do 5 or 10 bins you want them all the same you won't have to measure and put a line on each one and these got these little locking collars a little set screw on there that you can set them back stop with and the instructions say to get a little weld right here on this side stop but I'm going to leave that off for a while not convinced I need it and I'm not really sure what I want to do with that just yet but I'm going to just let it ride in there for now and then last is a welding a little guide tube or the RAM from the hydraulic jack or the bottle jack goes in and if you're going to do that you know you just need to get a good mark on the center I like to use a little silver sharpies for mark and hot rolled with and that would go right about there and you got to make sure it all lines up but this is the press I'm going to be using on it as like a tapered shaft on it so I'm probably going to get my machinist buddy who who bought this press to make me a little love adapter there so that that tapered shaft will fit right in it I like this he says it's critical that you support the entire bottom of the press break or it will destroy it ask me how I know so and follow the instructions and cautions and everything but after it's all done it seems like it's all after like I said I put a little had to put a little heat on the middle while I clamped it down to the table to pull it back straight it won't be any trouble once we get that big press hooked up to tweak this thing get it straight anyway but here's what I did I basically put a spacer in the middle quarter inch spacer and clamped it down and boat it down and put a little heat on it and then let it cool and that took off that took almost all the bow out of it alright well that's it for today thanks for watching and when I get the press hooked up I'll try to follow up with another video

Channel: weldingtipsandtricks

Views: 365,903

Rating: 4.8583331 out of 5

Keywords: hydraulic shop press, press brake, diy press brake, swag off road press

Id: iFXZgiXX_mA

Length: 10min 19sec (619 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 14 2011