Complete DIY Bedroom Renovation | A to Z

in today's video guys we have an a to z we got the entire process of how we took this nasty 1880s farmhouse which is like an original condition and we turned it into this we're gonna vault the ceiling we're gonna wrap the collar ties make them look pretty we put in brand new closet systems we did a hardwood floating floor we did the tile feature wall all the trim and paint this room is absolutely immaculate now and it is a true master bedroom right we're going to show all the different processes i hope you enjoy this project because this is the perfect kind of project you can do in your house just move into your spare room and tackle a master bedroom the next day the z video series are going to be the master ensuite so stick around don't forget to like this video and subscribe to the channel you don't want to miss these projects telling you right now if you can learn how to renovate your house like this you can create massive amounts of wealth right where you live enjoy the video in today's video i'm going to show you how to blow insulation into your attic or your crawl space and how to get a perfect r30 rating even if you can't see what you're doing hey it's jeff and matt here from home renovation diy and today we're here to tell you about how you can save some money if you got an old house like we do then you're going to need to know how to use one of these machines this is the insulation blowing machine we are using the attic cat fiberglass pink system basically the download is this the machine rents for free if you need at least 10 bags but that means you need a thousand square feet of insulation r20 or 500 at our 40 depending on what you're going for each one of these bags does about 100 square feet at r20 level the product itself does not compress over time unless of course it gets wet so make sure you got a good quality roof and basically the concept is simple you can buy the material rent the machine home depot does require a deposit for the machine even if you have good standing for rentals there because it's a separate arrangement 250 bucks just to make sure that this is coming back to the store right um and the deal is simple it comes with a hose and you basically are going to be cutting the bundles in half putting the insulation in here and then inside it's a big steel wheel and it's going to break it all up and then it's going to blow it with the high pressure hose and then this stuff it expands when it gets in the attic you're going to blow it out and it just goes into like some big pink snowflakes we're going to demonstrate the machine in a second and we're going to show you a few things you're going to need to know about attic spaces when you're insulating processes that are effective how to get consistent r value throughout the whole attic and we've got two different areas here we have one that's got a new framing and vapor barrier and not a lot of room to maneuver so we're going to show you how to work in that space and on the other side we've got a much more open situation we're going to be doing a top dressing so we're just going to be adding a little bit more and filling in some cracks and crevices we'll show you all the tips and tricks for getting this done right oh so i'm suggesting that they have a little remote thing here so when you're working you can hit the start or stop button on the machine this is a two-man operation so you're gonna need an assistant because well luck would have it the battery is dead on the remote big surprise it's a rental and i'm going to have to be yelling at matt to start and stop the machine as i need it frustrating anyway you're going to need an extension cord just a single three prong with the ground okay didn't come with the machine thank god i had one and then matt we just have to connect the other part of the hose now this hose is long enough you can actually leave the machine out in your truck and your second person can actually just be loading the machine there's a window here you can tell when it starts to get a little low and with the remote works that works great but since the remote's dead we got to bring the machine up here so we can communicate today which is lovely and it's heavy it's it's a heavy machine all right i remember the last time we did this we didn't read the instructions and it had been so long since i'd done it they're actually listed on the thing it'd been so long we just cut the end off and we tried to push all the insulation we had a hell of a time but if you follow the directions it works pretty easy so go ahead and cool so you get your knife uh there's like a dimpled marking here in the middle that you cut in half so you can feed into the machine so i'm just gonna start by cutting the sides deep into it kind of like a stake i guess flip it over cut it again now i don't expect to get all the way through with this so when i'm done cutting i'll just like put my foot on one end pull up on the other and stomp it you should freaking break in half like that split the top here so that when you put it in the machine you can peel back the plastic and it'll go into the machine got a little how to buy but yeah we're going to buy maddie yeah and that fits really easy there's lots of room right yeah and so what do you do are you like i'm good to go are you pushing it in and leaving the plastic out right i'm yeah i'm going to be grabbing the top of that so that i made kind of like just leaning into it and pulling okay cool all right so now we got to get up on the ladders me and max are going to get up in the ladders and we're going to demonstrate how to do a top dressing situation what we're going to do is we're going to start off and we're going to shoot this as far as we can try to get the fill all the way to the back of the other side of the room here specifically aiming for the peaks to get down those rafter joists because you can see behind the insulation there's a huge cavity there's no r value there that'll be the same for every one of those spots so let's do the first half bag we'll try to fill this with that [Music] yeah it usually takes a minute here we go it's starting to chew it up now okay [Music] you can see i'm actually getting about uh about 12 feet of directional control here which is not bad just the one bag for now right yeah we started with the half good we'll stop after that because i gotta crawl in all right we're going to shoot it all the way to the other end of the attic here when you get near the end you just shoot it up into the ceiling and then it'll rain down on your spot because you can't just blow it because it just blows away so you got to rain up as long as you do that kind of a technique when you get near the end everything will be fine get nice even coverage the land is nice and fluffy like it's almost like a pink christmas [Music] and that's how you get a top dressing we just added about about five or six inches everywhere that gets me what's the bag say they're matt six inches is r20 r16 okay seven and a half is our 20. right so in this situation i've already got an r20 insulation laying on top of some older stuff so by adding another 16 i'm pretty good i'm about a 40 here and it fills in all the gaps in between all the other bats and so i finally have a nice layer now let's go show you how to fill up a ceiling cavity with your vapor barrier in place if you don't have one of these at home they're crazy valuable it's an eight foot step ladder that also collapses and becomes a small version of an extension ladder all right it helps you to reach really difficult spaces [Applause] okay pass me my hose okay let's get going i'm aiming at the back wall [Music] being able to see what you're doing is critical you're looking for the total thickness so i got seven and a half inches here i want to go 14 and three quarters so that's up to here okay turn on [Applause] [Music] i wasn't quite ready for that one we're using all the material matt all of it yeah all right another half nice [Music] here i'll just demonstrate up top when i do that it's why it doesn't look like it's filling very fast because it's filling a very large area slowly all right now as you can see we're going to basically just create a mountain of insulation right here because this is actually an exterior wall now so what we're going to do is we're going to put r20 insulation horizontally here and then we're going to use a lawn rake to pull the insulation up tight against it piece of cake we'll put in the insulation staple our plastic halfway across and this will enable us to have enough fill in the space so that we can back it up and fill all this cavity up so we have a nice continual thermal break all right guys there you go who says working on renovations can't be fun this is kind of playing in the playground kind of stuff right it's pretty straightforward it's easy just gotta mind the fact that it is under pressure it's being blown so if you want to fill something and the air that you're blowing is blowing it away just turn it into the roof and let it rain down into the right location it works every time and doing something like this i think the total cost because the rental the four bags i'm in around 300 bucks 350 maybe canadian which isn't bad because i just insulated a huge space and that is going to seal this up tighter than the drum and it's going to conserve all my energy for years and years to come so i would like to know if this is something that after watching it you think you could do it yourself give us a thumbs up if it is and ask your questions in the comments section or let me know if you've had experiences renting the machines on what you thought your experience was so we can encourage other people to tackle this project themselves i'm telling you right now if you go out and hire a contractor for this they're going to charge you thousands or you can do it yourself for just a few hundred bucks hey in today's video guys i'm gonna show you the easiest diy flooring i've ever installed in my entire life check this out and no it's not vinyl this is hardwood flooring it's an engineered hardwood floor that installs like a dream and it has a lot more value in your home than if you put in vinyl and it costs about the same money know this video is not sponsored all right i just happen to stumble across the greatest product on earth listen if you like the idea of having a really easy to install hardwood floor for your house give this video a thumbs up watch the tutorial but also i want you to put in the comments what you've been planning to install have you been shopping for vinyl and this is maybe changing your mind or are you going to go look for carpet or some other surface i'd like to know what your project's going to look like by the end of this video i'm going to guarantee you you're going to seriously consider buying this floor and as a bonus at the end of this video i'm also going to show you my best installation secret why i install the flooring before i put in my doors and my trim all right we're going to go through the process so that you can get your house to look like you had a professional come into your installation instead of doing it yourself alright guys i'm doing this video today because we've got a new product on the market we're going to show you all step by step how to install it but before we do let's just differentiate between all the different flooring products out there you've got products get nailed or screwed or set in thin set and then you've got diy projects most di wires out there are not tackling advanced technology and you're looking for a floating floor and traditionally your your options were like an mdf laminate right and these came in the price point started at one dollar you can get them as expensive as five or six but you could enter the market at one dollar a square foot then they came along with vinyl the spc core you can put the stuff anywhere it can't be damaged by water and this kind of came in at around the two to three dollar entry mark and it comes up to five dollars a square foot as well of course you know no matter what kind of flooring they're selling they're going to give you an option to spend all kinds of money here's the newest product on the market this is engineered hardwood diy click lock flooring huh yeah it goes in really super simple it's an actual quarter inch of finished oak laminated on two layers of plywood the bottom is curved and check this out look at that flexibility you're not going to find that anywhere else in the hardwood world so if you're a diyer and you've got an older house and it has a little bit of inconsistency in the floor you can install this product it'll follow the contour we're going to go through step by step this stuff enters the marketplace at four bucks a square foot in the united states all right now i've got a supplier full disclosure but they're only able to ship to canadians right now we'll see what that is later on but at four dollars a square foot you can now install hardwood in your home click clock with hardly any tools at all think about it get an amazing looking finish increase the value of your property you can do it yourself and it's only about another hundred dollars for an entire room more than vinyl or laminate i think this is a game changer and after today you're not going to ever bother buying one of these products again because this is money in the bank now as far as this flooring goes i know i'm a little ahead of myself we have lots of taping to do but it's okay we're going to use site protection and you can go out of order with your construction because one of the benefits of doing the floor first is now i get to install all my door jambs and all my doors and all my baseboards on top of the flooring and it avoids a lot of silly little trims and a lot of gaps and caulking later on so bear with me but step one when you're doing a floating floor is you want to make sure that your your subfloor is actually really installed well so take a look at your subfloor just make sure that it is screwed and not nailed because don't forget subfloors will have deflection when you step in between the floor before it'll push up on the nails and start squeaking against the nail so in order to avoid that problem all you got to do [Music] screw down your subfloor nice and tight so nothing's moving around step two is all about making sure it's clean i like to just use a great big towel wipe my floor down remember floating floors always have a little bit of movement and if you have dust underneath your floor assembly every time you step it'll come fire into the room and you'll be forever sitting in the dirt step three is all about figuring out where you're going to start now i've got a laser level here and i'm just going to lay it up against my wall and identify i can wow that's amazing you want to have a straight line that you can figure out with once you know that you've got a starting point that you're happy with you can move forward if the wall is bowed you might have to even do a little bit of contouring on your first couple of boards you want to make sure you're about as snug as you can get to get started and then your baseboards are going to finish and cover the gap step 4 is all about underlayment now i've done videos before and people have commented and asked me where did you get that underlayment the truth is there are a lot of companies out there making a good quality underlayment it doesn't matter about the brand it matters about this most the time it has a vapor barrier sometimes it's this tin foil sometimes it's plastic what they all have in common is they are about a three millimeter eva foam very very dense this stuff is amazing ability to handle impact noise and reduce sound transmission from conversation from one room to the next and that's what you're looking for when you're buying underpad it's not about um the brand it's about the product this stuff comes about 50 bucks for 200 square feet now listen you're not going to find this kind of product at home depot they sell their own underpad and they're making an absolute fortune off of it and it doesn't work as anywhere near as well so make sure you google for a flooring supply store wholesaler near you and you can find out where to pick something like this up for yourself or you can always use our the corner website and that link is in the video description if you're in canada they have a really good eva under pad on that website as well so like with other hardwood products this is all milled specifically when they see an imperfection in the wood they just cut it and mill it so it comes various sizes the better quality of the supplier the longer the pieces are going to get okay like that's one piece of flooring i like to do the first row in the room with some of the longest pieces you can find to help keep it straight so we're just going to lay this over here first piece is now installed and it's a click lock so we're just going to set it flush and then drop it okay and we'll worry about our angle later what we're going to do is we're going to put together about three rows and then position it according to that laser level line that we dropped earlier just to make sure that everything is perfect just set it in place and then wiggle it into position that's installed wow this is almost ridiculously easy this is crazy this is hardwood without tools you want to make sure you're always staggering your joints you don't want them any more than six inches close to each other that'll help keep everything nice and square you won't get unsightly gaps down the road okay now here we go this is the only thing you need to know is how to cut and measure all right and you don't want to get tricky like this the best system is you take the tongue you turn it around so now you're measuring by putting the finish board up against the wall and then measure back to where it meets take a little bit off make your mark you cut it and then you flip it around to install it [Music] but just just hammering both opposite sides down really locks that groove incredibly well we're going to be installing a door jamb and that's part of the beautiful thing about diy flooring if you put the flooring down before all your doors everything looks great when you're done right perfect every day so as a diyer one of the secrets to success when you're doing your flooring is get the first three rows done all that locking joint is going to help really straighten out the flooring and then take a piece of your baseboard that you're going to be installing when you're done i love this stuff because it's three-quarter wide and it gives you a really nice profile you're going to want to slide it along your wall and if there's a gap just adjust your floor until every angle everywhere the flooring is covered with the baseboard okay it's the entire secret right there and as long as you do it in that order flooring and then baseboards you're going to be having a gorgeous look now before you install your baseboards make sure you paint them first because then when you go and install it you can brad nail way up here okay and then just do your touch-ups and a little touch-up paint and never have to use a brush down by the flooring that'll make sure your flooring looks absolutely perfect and you're never going to get those touch-ups paint in the butt once it's in place you just take a drill and you can throw in a couple of screws where you know you're nice and tight to the wall okay and that'll help keep everything nice and square so the rest of the day you're building the rest of the floor it's not moving around on you now when you're all done come back and remove the screws because they're going to be sitting a little proud of the surface before you put your baseboards on the reason i do this is because if you're working along and you come to a place and you're working around a door frame or a closet and your floor is shifted a little bit or pushed too far or twisted you're gonna get to the other end of the room just go to put your baseboards on and go ah you're gonna have a gap somewhere because things are out of alignment and it's too late then to move three or four hundred pounds of flooring that's been cut around other obstacles so get a couple screws in so you're holding it tight and then you're good to go until the very end of the project that point you can pull the screws out and add your baseboard one of the best techniques for doing your floor is get all of the major square footage done and then come back and work on all your details so for transitions at doors and stuff like that it's not necessary to work on this right away let's get the most of the project finished and then we'll get to all the details at the end of the video and i'll show you all my secrets for finishing off now we're going to start rolling out more underpad laying more flooring down it's cut and measure it's pretty much basic and simple always making sure to constantly be cleaning constantly vacuuming wiping the floor inspecting screwing down problem areas it's all about the preparation so once you get yourself repositioned that you can maintain a clean space you can get about 75 of the way clean all that and vacuum again and get all prepped up again so it's a little redundant and boring but trust me if you take time with your preparation it'll make all the difference in the world as well this type of hardwood doesn't have an expansion contraction rate like typical hardwood so it doesn't need to be a half an inch away from the floor with huge gaps a little bit of gap is great this has really advanced technology so it doesn't expand and contract like traditional hardwood because of these kerfs it doesn't grow in different kind of humid climates so if you have basic heating and air conditioning in your home you're not going to have a lot of dramatic growth okay so a little bit of space around posts and for and walls and corners is great a quarter inch is plenty you don't have to go overboard all right this stuff here looks like hardwood it is hardwood but it performs closer down the scale to like a vinyl flooring it performs better than even a laminate traditional mdf laminate so don't be too concerned about leaving massive gaps around and using lots of shims just laying out the flooring and setting all your product on it will keep it from moving around and you'll be fine so in some situations in your house you're going to want to have the vapor barrier and you're going to want to have it sealed now most of these underlayments come with a little two-sided tape action all right so you can actually peel the tape back lay it down on the existing okay and you can just pull it and peel it peel and stick and that's lovely you can make a nice little vapor barrier there and this is a great technique you can actually install this on your concrete floor in your basement and put hardwood right on top it's not recommended unless you have a newer house but if you have an older house you can put in a subfloor system put in the underpad and then you can have hardwood in the basement as well i know it's crazy but because it's a lay down floating floor there's no fasteners you don't have to worry about affecting your subfloor system and your vapor barrier in your basement so now you can have hardwood in the basement now when we're getting into situations like this if you want to just get the volume done first you can always start off your you know structure that's causing you an issue keep building do the rest of the room at the end of the day we can come back and do all these little different cuts we've cut and measured this so it'll fit just fine no you didn't nate you cut it short i'm thinking baseboards yeah you're thinking three inch baseboard man that's a hell oh baseboard like right now i'm fine but i got another half inch underneath when you make a mistake and you will don't panic just set it aside you're going to cut one side wrong you can just make it a starter strip just cut the other side set it at the other end and keep it around so when you get to an opportunity to use it you can cut it in that way you might cut off a little bit more but you don't have too much waste another secret to avoid waste when you get to the other end of the of the row let's say you need a six inch board go grab something that's three or four feet cut the end for that one and then you have a nice big board to start the next row with don't be afraid to cut the big ones because they can make it a lot easier to finish and start without having a bunch of little pieces at each end well if you cut it long on purpose you can always cut it again yes sir nothing wrong with cutting it twice did it right that time we also need to cut off the tongue what the heck do i do here buddy waiting for your dad to come and show you how to do it i think yeah went a little too far ahead of me so we took this opportunity to be able to show people at home something because it's a drop block the end is a drop lock as well so it's impossible to stick it in this way and get underneath you might be able to wiggle something in here but then you don't have the angle okay so resist the temptation to do this don't go around the corner and keep on going with drop block systems the only other option is to cut off that tongue drop it in place and allow the compression here and the baseboard to hold it all together you can generally cheat and get away with that and in this case that's exactly what i'm going to do almost perfect every time [Laughter] [Music] okay so as you can see once you get going measure and cut a couple basic tools you don't need to have a chop shot to do a floor like this you can do with a hand saw or a skill saw a jigsaw just make sure you're using sharp blades so that the tools work and you're not wasting your time the uh hardwood flooring also works with that laminate flooring crunching tool that i have the crusher the guillotine so you know feel free if you got one of those you can use that as well here's a quick trick when you're finishing off a roll you've got to start another one nothing's ever cut square at the factory so overlap them a couple inches cut them at the same time together and then your product will seam together really nice as long as you don't step on it and move it all over the place like i just did okay okay baby here we go let me show you how to do this yes most of this floor i installed the face in the other direction okay so it's pushing it in it's actually quite difficult once you have enough room and you can work from behind it's easier to pull and push okay so grab your board okay you want to slide it in the groove nice and tall yep slide it over to make contact here yeah and then start laying it down okay and use your thumbs to to warp it to the contour of the floor wow this is a click lock so this side might be higher okay so make sure when you put it in you're pushing it down paying attention to those joints okay there you go okay high end up okay let me just get a feel for it yeah okay nice and tight there now you want to just pull it yeah so you're awfully quick to drop it down you want to be careful of the lock okay okay so when you're putting it down pulling it towards you making sure that this gets nice and tight and then set it in place right and then what happens because that happens yes the next board is what locks that joint together nice nice okay at the end of the wall wow what holds it all down is the baseboard sure piece okay yeah all right well i'm gonna go to the store uh you can finish off the rest of the room i mean i'm gonna take i don't mind taking the challenge but uh oh that's cool i like hanging out with you ah i'll let you do the metal parts and i'll do all the cuts at the end okay okay so the old goal is just trying to make sure that over the course of three or four boards your joints don't line up and they're four to six inches apart okay that's the goal if you have to cheat a little bit here and there it's okay yes but at least that way we don't end up having the reoccurring joints everywhere no we don't want that all right [Applause] so we have to open up an another box already oh yeah yeah for sure like that was okay you want me to do it uh well i'll work with you the way they package this the tape joint is actually on the underside of the wood oh smart they don't risk uh yeah reckon anything oh my gosh i love the green in this wood it's like so unique you know how some flooring has like the same five different green impressions whereas this one's got like 20 i'm sure or more well a million because there's no board the same well okay it's real wood yeah because you're right because the laminate and the vinyls all have like um reoccurring pictures yeah and you don't get any of that problem here oh that's a nice long one well that speaks to the quality of the product right can i have a really short piece there thank you very much all right well we're at that point where we're ready to put the next row of underpad down but you can see i can't clean that floor properly until i can move my cutting station so what i'm going to do is i'm going to move the cutting station over here now we went into this project knowing we're going a little bit ahead of ourselves we're going to be doing carpentry more mud hanging doors so we are not going with a traditional dry sheathing paper or or there's a roofing cardboard paper we're going with ram board on this one this product here is just really thick it's just the next level up in sight protection right it's very very rigid board so we're going to cover our floors of this product it gives us a peace of mind that we can set tools on it and move around freely and we're still going to have to use some element of care when it comes time to doing major mill work and stuff we'll probably bring in a couple sheets of plywood and put it on top of the floor but for now we're gonna get the ram board down and then we'll move the saw do another round of cleaning all over again site protection and then clean clean clean and then uh another hour or so we'll finish all this off piece of cake wait site protection huh is it really dense cardboard yeah it also has been treated so that if you put water on it oh here let's answer that question with a demonstration so ram board is really thick it's also got a spill guard it's been treated so water beads up then it gives you lots of time to come by and clean that up or just wipe it in it's not gonna be a big deal when you put this down you put layer against layer and you tape the joints you got a really nice protection layer make sure when you install it you cut it short of where your baseboards are going to go so you're not always fussing around after the fact if we don't cover the last two inches around the edge we can always take time of the rag and wipe off any mud or paint or whatever it hits there later but you don't want it in the way of your finished carpentry so i'm going to just take the time to finish off the rest of the room really really sure yeah because you know you're cute no but i move faster alone yeah so thanks for coming tomorrow tomorrow i'm going to let you put the cardboard down you can use the blue tape to join the seams together sure this is important don't use this on the floor well i know because it leaves behind me yeah someone's been watching some videos lots of green tape though for getting all the ends and then um i got meetings in the morning but then afterwards i'm going to be up here doing my taping and you got meetings now i've got meetings now there's a lot going on yeah high five members are gonna love us life must go on can they figure it out okay okay just scissors room are we too hot and sweaty nope never you yeah i know i discussed with myself there see you baby bye okay okay here we go now we're all set up the other end of the room i have to clean and prep and start my process over again but i only have one third of it left now listen this is all done in one day it's only 1 30 in the afternoon and we're taking the time to film and move everything back and forth trust me this is the most convenient flooring you can ever install and just for a point of reference this flooring costs a dollar less a square foot than lifeproof vinyl at home depot think about it if you're a canadian this is a hell of a deal if you're american i'm so sure that somebody is importing this for you take a look around and see what's on the market remember one of the benefits of doing this kind of flooring is it's click lock if you make a mistake you unclick it you don't have hardware fasteners and major issues to go with the risk of damage in your floor while you're fixing a board it's an awesome product when you go to sell your house you can say i have hardwood everywhere because you do you're not lying it's an engineered hardwood floor but it's just engineered to make it easy for diy installation gotta love this all right one of the most popular questions i've been getting about flooring videos is how do you do the end row what's the secret to getting that scribed and cut properly we're going to show you right now so first we're going to take a piece that we're going to be cutting and we're going to line it up with the existing flooring right in the same spot and then i'm going to take another piece of wood that's the same length basically i'm going to set it on top and i'm going to push it until it makes contact with the wall okay then you're going to take your marker you're going to trace that now i know there's a little bit of a tongue here and the goal here because where you don't have baseboards yet is not to make it fit so snug that there's no expansion contraction room so by doing this we're actually going to end up with about a 1 8 of a gap maybe even a little bit more depending on how generous you are when you cut that line and there you go now you're scribed now all you have to do is you can take whatever size you have available you can use a skill saw because this area here is going to be garbage now you can actually screw that to another piece of wood or a sheet of plywood or to your workbench and you can just use your your circular saw and you can rip that off or you can use a table saw now i'm going to do the whole room i have a table saw so obviously i'm going to use the good tool but in case you don't have a table saw why don't i just show you how to use the skill saw anyway now the reason i love this table is has a roller okay so what i'm going to do guys is i'm just going to set up my saw i'm going to hold the the plate with my thumb and this and i'm going to bring them together until i'm in the meat and then i'm just going to hold the saw still and pass the wood past the blade and kind of create an inverted table saw effect okay here we go the secret to keeping safe here is don't move the saw move the wood [Music] and that works really well or we can just use an actual table saw so my my saw line is actually my wall is pretty straight but my room is crooked so it's pretty straightforward so what i did is i just drew an extra line here because your situation might be different you might have a bow in your wall or something else going on this strange so i'm going to just show you a table saw technique for cutting around a bend of course the blade is 10 inches wide so if the curve you can see the problem here you can't be forcing this because what will happen is it'll bind and it'll throw the wood back at you it's quite dangerous so what we're going to do is we're going to start here we're going to follow a straight line cut all the way through and then we're just going to do a couple of different cuts [Music] [Music] can you no break eh at all that's how you save 100 bucks you don't get a saw with a break anyway you can see you can start to curve a line it doesn't have to be perfect remember it's flooring you're going to still use baseboard of some sort but i just thought i'd show you that otherwise when you're working this you're doing freehand the idea is you set this up where the point is you want to look down your line and you want to draw that line right down the blade to see it go all the way through okay [Music] [Applause] okay here we go all right now you'll notice when i was cutting i was coming off my line a little bit instead of twisting or turning i just backed it up and gave myself a little bit extra space and then readjusted my my my approach okay that's the safer way to use the saw than just trying to twist it around if the blade is too wide to treat it like a jigsaw all right let's go see how this works i love these moments max it's my opportunity people can actually find out if i know what the hell i'm doing or not [Music] there we go oh yeah baby that's awesome now the last thing you need to know is every floating floor it's going to have a little bit of bounce in the last piece same with that near the doorways so when you go and install your baseboard don't work way back here get right up and close and personal see that put your weight on the floor set in your base and then you can attach it and that'll get a nice pinning effect around the room you want to put your fastener through the floor into the subfloor just want to get the base right nice and in contact it'll still expand and contract underneath but it'll get rid of that bounciness and then you won't have gaps opening and closing over time it'll also make sure that there is any dust trapped under the floor it doesn't have an easy access back into the room because if i install like this and then i step on it now there's a huge gap and dirt can get sucked into the room so always put the weight on it when you're nailing and we're good to go now hey guys and if you like the idea of putting this kind of flooring in your bedroom or in your basement and you really appreciate us bringing you this information hit the like button don't forget to share this video with other people that you know that are remodeling their houses this is going to be a real big game changer don't forget to subscribe to the channel so you can see the rest of the project that we're doing up here in my master bedroom all right so here we are i promise to show you my secret to how i do all this kind of thing it's really not that complicated all you've got to do is pre-paint your trim before you install it now you take a tool like this and you cut off your shims mark your trim for where you want to cut the joint just cut your trim and then you install it perfect every time the reason this works so good is you never have to worry about installing your floor and undercutting all your jams and trim and making a mess of things so you get clean cuts that are pre-painted you never have to bring your brush near the floor to paint your trim when you're done that is the secret and it's money in the bank hey guys jeff from home renovation and i'm up in my master bedroom today and i've got an awesome project it's all about how to build a feature wall telling you right now if you go with something that looks like natural stone if it's a natural occurring product it's timeless we're going to create this accent wall we're going to go with porcelain tile we're going to go floor to ceiling and we're going to make it absolutely amazing and then i picked the most difficult tile project available to do this well so i can walk you through all the processes of layout and design and your strategy and how to measure how to start it how to finish it and how to make it so that you don't have any lippage i'm in an 1880 farmhouse this wall has got bends and curves and everything else we're going to go through all my tips and tricks on how to tile a wall so you can be like a tiled pro when you go work on your project at home that way you can impress all your friends and family all right listen let's just get right into this because i'm going to show you what i'm talking about when i'm talking about the challenges of working in a room like this one of them right out of the gate is i've got weird doors in the room right and my center point on this wall is not center of what you see it's a little off-center so when i'm laying out this design i've got to try to make sure that i get that illusion of space way up here in the corner i've got a peak on each side and that is almost eight feet wide now my tile is one foot by four foot long and i'm going horizontal so i'm going to have an eight foot wide wall and i've got to be close to those corners because that dimension there is only 93 inches i've got to be close enough to the corners that if i want to cheat a little bit one way or the other it still looks centered on the room which is going to be really crucial other things i've got to deal with today is i've got light switches and plugs check this out [Music] that's right i got a bow wall lovely but there are ways that you can get around that and i'm just going to let you know that if you're going to go with tile the rule of thumb is simple the bigger the tile the more difficult the install i know in the back your head you might be thinking the complete opposite it's like well there's less pieces to put on the wall but you have to think about tile as it doesn't have any flexibility so when you install it you've got to install it flush right flush can be hard to do if you don't start flush so we're going to go through the process and show you all the tips and tricks out of the cheats so that you can make it look flush if it's not or you can build it flush if you need to the other thing we're dealing with of course is well it's pretty straight this part of the wall bends in a little bit that's going to be not a problem because with tile you can always back fill the tile and add more cement we'll get into that later but the other challenge we have and this is the biggest issue let me just show you this real quick there's the tile all right this is not the finished side but when you measure and i'm going in horizontal that tile man that is just 11 and 11 16. yeah we have to measure with the 16th because today we're going to go with a 1 16 grout space now here's the thing if i had exactly eight feet floor to ceiling and if this tile with a 1 8 spacer was exactly eight feet i'm laughing if it's a little short i can go to 1 8 of a spacer because you can increase your grout line in order to fill the bigger space but because i need a full quarter of an inch i'm not going with quarter inch grout line i'm not trying to make it look like it was done back in 1950 i'm trying to go modern so we need thin which means that i'm gonna have because this is eight feet one inch old house right this is what i'm dealing with so i got an extra inch on top i'm gonna end up with almost two inches of extra space over the course of the wall because this is a quarter inch shy and it's gonna be eight rows high so let me just throw that in on the wall all right so on this channel you know i like to talk about the end from the beginning right you need to know where you're going in order to get there and have a successful job so let's just draw this out this is roughly what my tile job is going to look like there we go okay that's really horrible because it's a rectangle but it's actually gonna be eight by eight feet don't be too hard on me but here's the thing here's the floor and here's the ceiling and i've got one inch of extra space and two inches of extra space now like i said if i put in quarter inch grout line i can stretch that so it goes top to bottom but that'll look ugly so what we're going to do instead is we're going to keep in mind i have two options here i can cut the first tile in half right and i can put in like a half tile and then finish with the small piece up top that'll look nasty or i can design this so that my ceiling is where the tile finishes okay and down here i've got my three inches all right now i've got a six inch baseboard and if i cut the baseboard around the tile after the fact it's going to look just fine and here's why this feature wall is actually designed to have a cabinet in front of it so all of a sudden having that tile not make it all the way to the floor is not a real big issue you're going to find when you go out to buy stone and tile that almost everything is designed for eight or nine foot walls okay small tile for kitchen is designed for the 18 inches between the upper and lower cabinets and tile on walls is designed for an eight or nine foot wall if you have any variation in that you're going to have to get creative so what we're going to do is we're going to do the math from the ceiling down and we're going to install a nailing strip to put our tile on and i'm just grabbing a piece of door stop okay we're gonna throw a laser level line on the wall we're gonna install this three inches off the ground but instead of three i'm gonna go with two three quarter inches because i've done the math and i know that this side is actually a little shorter than this side all right so i'm going to have a grout line up at the top and i know that if i give myself an extra quarter of an inch mercy when i get up to about the fifth row if i need to because i can measure as i go if i need to i can go from 1 16 to 1 8 of a spacer because as soon as you start looking up a little thicker grout line looks just as thin as everything else okay it's a little trick of the eye you can use so if you're wondering about how am i gonna manage and compensate if my math is a little wrong give yourself a little bit extra mercy at the beginning is the secret to success i picked up a box of these these are little spacers all right they come as a kit and they're designed for making the surface level we'll get into that in a minute but they come with a wedge and that wedge right there allows you to manipulate the tile so you can go from 1 8 to a 16 or somewhere in between you can manipulate the tile just a little bit especially over a large space to end up flush at the ceiling there have options because the cement usually has the bonding power if you buy the good stuff to hold it to the wall and still move around on the wall for a good hour or two so when you get the after the first half is done you mix that make a fresh batch of cement for the second half the wall and then you've got all the time and flexibility to really mess around and make sure everything is just perfect before it all sets up on you that's money in the bank all right so let's take that information that we've got all sorted out here we know that there's a stud in this wall so here we go this is a great way to measure from the top down now there's there's my eight foot mark and i know i got eight rows of tile they're going to be a quarter inch shy of the 12 inch so times two is 94 inch right and we're going to go a quarter inch mercy and there's my spot now i'm using these monster screws right there on the spot now that'll carry the weight just fine i'm gonna resist a temptation to put a long screw all the way on the wall you never know where the electrical is hiding every once in a while someone will do something creative it'll just wreck your day okay now we're gonna go level on this and put the bubble right on top of the screw i'm going to pick my spot until i'm perfectly happy with it i'm going to hold it with my one hand okay and then i'm gonna quickly draw a reference line here okay now it's just about finding the other studs now in an old house it's easy you can actually look under the drywall and you can see them i'll show you there's no bottom plate there it is so you can just that's where the stud is that's too much fun actually when you think about it [Music] it's not uncommon in a lot of tile applications on walls that will actually use a starter strip like that any bathroom that's not a wet area we always use a starter strip because we don't have a waterproof membrane that we're compromising so this is a great way to start if you're doing another kind of bathroom project and you're hanging wall tile you can measure off the ground to the height of the first tile put in a starter strip like this so they carry the weight of the stone and then the next day you can always add the bottom row pizza cake so real quick before we get into the project i'm going to show you all the tools and materials you're going to need and that'll be like a little shopping list for you if you're going to pull something like this off at home okay first of all you need two pails one to mix your cement and of course one with full of clean water and you're going to want a new sponge all right that's so you can keep things clean as you go the biggest mistake that everybody makes with tiling especially on the internet you see it every time is they have all kinds of cement in between all the grout lines and then they have to try to clean that out after the fact before they go out maddening all right i'm going to show you how to avoid that most common mistake so that you don't risk chipping your stone while you're cleaning out the the cement nobody ever shows that mistake but i'm telling you right now ninety percent of the tile projects done on the internet have all got chip tile because they had to clean the cement after the fact it's just the way it is you need measuring tape uh knife and here's the wedge system i was talking about now this i picked this up not because it's my favorite but because it's available at the local home depot i know a lot of folks especially in the residential world you're not going to go in down to the tile supplier to get your materials and you don't mind paying two three four five times as much to get the same stuff at the home depot because it's convenient so here's how this works it's a wedge the tile goes in between the two and the flat part goes on the bottom and the more you force this together the more compression there is underneath behind the stone and that helps get rid of the lippage we'll show you that as well and if you aren't going to invest in that kind of system i'm also going to show you how to just work with regular spacers this is a 1 16 spacer read the package nice and simple you can use this as well and there are pros and cons to using the wedge system for sure to get a professional look but if you're not allergic to blood sweat and tears and really making this a labor of love i'll show you how to use this as well you're going to want to get a rubber mallet and the reason for this is large format tile you're going to be trying to compress and collapse the ridges on that cement and if you don't have something to put pressure on properly like a rubber mallet you're gonna gonna have a hard time getting a good bond okay you just can't manipulate that much cement behind one big stone unless you got one so make sure you don't pass that part up once we get into this you'll see how valuable it is you're going to need a mask i got so many of these laying around left over from covid i'm going to be using these for a while it's just to keep the cement dust out of my lungs while i'm mixing i'm old and i don't like going up and down the stairs a lot so i'm gonna mix in the house and so that is going to be the level of protection i'm using today also need a laser level this is basic it does a straight across and straight up line nice and simple you can always go to our amazon store to get all these tools and materials you're going to need click the video link below and you can go and check that out all right also before we get started if you're interested in seeing us do like a geometric shape feature wall made out of wood and paint i'm humming and hawing about doing it because the whole world is doing it but if you want to get my take on it i think i got a few tips and tricks up my sleeve that might be helpful let me know in the comments section what kind of feature wall what kind of shapes you're looking for be interested to hear your comments on that okay cheers all right we are going to do a little bit of cutting because i've got to cut around my electrical plugs so you're going to need a grinder with a ceramic new porcelain tile blade okay don't cheap out and get the six dollar one you're going to need about a forty dollar blade for this project if you're gonna buy really good tile you need a really good blade just can't have one without the other so before we mix cement i'm gonna just show you this we have to have a center line because as soon as we make cement i'm ready to go baby so like let's get this done this line here my laser line goes right up to my peak like i said before the peak is almost eight feet wide so i need to have my tile coming to about here i don't want it too close to this switch let's just go right on that line all right now we're gonna go 47 inches from there and this is a great way to make that work there's my center line i'm just going to bring my laser level over that's all i need because once i get my first couple tiles on i'll just keep following out corner to corner remember i purchased rectified porcelain here so every tile is exactly the same size there's no variation be careful when you're shopping for stone or tile if they can have up to a quarter inch variation in both dimensions right the width and the length so be careful for that if you want to install simple and have it look perfect then you gotta buy good stone might mean an extra couple bucks a square foot but we're talking about 64 square feet and do you want to waste four or five hours of your life trying to fix everything up perfect when forty dollars would have solved that problem me neither all right guys so uh here's my cement mixer this is what it looks like it's really simple it's not like the same as the drywall mud mixer okay get one of these and then we're gonna want to make about a half a bag of cement and that takes about about that much water don't ask me how i know this has been doing tile for a long time the pail is full to about here right about two and a half inches and if you start there and you put in a little bit of cement and mix it up you're allowed when you're mixing cement to mix it and add a little bit more cement or more water till you get to the consistency you want as long as you don't let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes once you let it sit the curing starts to happening and then adding water cement after that fact is a no-no okay so make sure you get it the way you want it right away i'm gonna go through what cement should look like right now well here's it for the rest of the power tools it's my slow mixer i use this for drylo mud and cement and thinset all right there you go if you don't have one of these you could use a regular chuck drive drill just make sure you're mixing small batches you don't want to overwork the drill okay here we go now this is my thin set i'm using today there's no such thing as the right bag of cement for an interior wall in a dry area okay so you can get the cheapest stuff you can find they sell a bag of cement for 15 bucks at the tile supply store just google towel supply wholesalers um i think it's from richard uh this one's probably about a 25 bag but if you go to home depot it's 45 and up uh the stuff from schluter all set it's a brilliant cement it's meant to handle every situation and every situation possible known to mankind but that stuff's 65 to 80 a bag so you get what you pay for but in this situation we don't need a whole lot of science we just need something that's going to bond and dry so let's not get into the comments section about i should have picked a better cement ah yeah that's true um generally i like to use ultralight for interior walls like this but because i had some cement left over from the patio job i'm just using what i have it's not going to hurt anybody oh yeah i'm not even wearing my mask that's brilliant eh [Music] oh look at all that dangerous toxin yeah for everybody who wants me to live another five years to continue making videos for you guys this is for you right away i'm way too soupy and that's okay i'm just throwing another couple handfuls [Music] and now i'm way too dry and the way you know this is you want it to be what's the right consistency here somewhere in between pancake batter and cool whip because once we're done mixing we're going to let it sit for 10 minutes so it sets up okay and that's the point where it's going to have a little bit of stiffness once i get this way i like it we'll bring the camera right into the pail and it'll demonstrate what you're looking for okay [Music] so you can see as i'm mixing this that it's peaking up okay kind of like cool whip once it starts peeking up that's a good indication that you're ready to go it all sagged down but after 10 minutes of setting up when i put it on with the trowel it'll actually hold itself in shape and that's perfect because you want it to be able to hold itself in ridges until you use the tile and collapse the ridges with your own pressure here's a pro tip for you through my laser level where my tile is going to finish now i'm going to just mark about an inch in from that that's where i want my cement to finish once i get the first row on it's real easy to work and build but for right now i want to make sure i don't have any of the cement squeezing out past that line just makes sense right we'll do that to both sides to get started that's my center line and my tile is 47 inches and takes me to here and so i want to come to here with my mud so you can see how these peaks are kind of flattened out watch this how stiff this has gotten so that still feels nice and soft right so what i'm recommending with wall tile one is this size like anything over 12 by 12 you're gonna wanna it's a quarter inch wide on the tooth three eighths deep and a quarter inch wide again okay that's the size used um the other option would go to half by half by half all right that's another option usually we use that on floors for walls it's not as necessary and there's a couple of rules here if it's in a dry area you can only need 80 coverage on the stone and we'll talk about that in a minute as well let's stick with this there's a lot of technical information i'm going to get you i mean i'm almost done building this thing but there's a lot of technical stuff to come still and so with 80 adhesion basically means if if you got a good grab here here here and here and here you're okay right so the wall having a lot of movement isn't going to really affect your day so i'm going to show you what we're going to see when we put it on the wall we're going to get this and these ridges are what we're going to have collapsing when we push the stone on because it's ridging and holding its shape i know it's ready to be used so now all that's left is to stick the stuff on the wall the secret to doing this is getting it on the wall without getting it all over the place all right less is more it generally holds its shape right so if you go like this lay that on there we're only going one stone which is 12 inches or 11 and three quarters if you're really paying attention all right we don't need a whole lot of cement here yet now in the world of tile enthusiasts they will tell you that there are rules about which way the line should go so when you're collapsing your ridges might i suggest the rules are a little bit stupid they came up with these rules long before they had large format tile the basic idea is that the way that you draw the the line is that's the way that air escapes when you're collapsing the tile okay and so they always tell you to leave the groove running on the shortest way of the tile so if your tile is six inches by a foot long you go on the short side because that'll work if it's 12 by 12 pick a side it doesn't matter they'll both work if it's 12 by 24 all of a sudden they want you to go it makes no damn difference to be honest with you and if you have a problem with my his opinion on that then then go ahead and get as technical and scientific as you like but just stupid i like to go horizontal when i'm installing horizontal because when i'm installing horizontal i'd like to set my tile in and then collapse the ridges up and away all right and so that's why i do it this way and you may not like my method but it has served me really well over my career that is cement on the wall doesn't look like much but if it's flat you're fine now since there's no such thing as a flat wall i'm going to suggest that we have an option here one is to back butter the tile which means you take the straight edge of the trowel and you use it to apply a thin layer of cement on the tile itself like buttering toast this is where they got the concept from all right and what this does wherever the tile makes any contact with that cement on the wall at all even in the smallest still barely touched it just it's going to bond okay and that is the goal so now we're gonna take our big stone here we're gonna set it on our wood yeah we're gonna slap it on and that's good ah there we go we're almost done now let's take a look at this and we'll see what kind of bond we get all right there we go you'll see i got grape pond on that side grape on on that side not so much in the middle because the wall's not flat let's throw some ridges on that part of the tile okay there we go now this is the secret for not having cement in your grout lines remove it i know it's such a trick make sure the tile is clean all right top and bottom one of the benefits of the ridges that we created is it makes room for these tile spacers to be installed okay once you've cleaned you can put in these spacers this is how you do it always put the spacers once you're clean now you can put the spacers in after you've done the cement on the next row if you like that's a good idea but i just want to let you know as long as the area is clean these tabs will then break out nice because right here there's a weak spot and when we take this off we hit from this side and it should just break but if the whole thing is full of cement then it's bonded to the cement as well as the back of the tab they don't break clean and then people find themselves in there with knives trying to clean all that out that's how you run into trouble okay let's do the next one and we'll take a look at how well this wall is going to work for us for that joint in the middle and then we'll talk about how we can fix that problem if there is one by the way the trowel is 11 inches wide so it's really easy to know how much cement you need okay back to some butter open it up help make sure you get your bond all right let's throw this one on now you don't want to cause any issue with the damage here so you want to have a nice gap over here about a quarter inch and then you can close up to the other tile let's take a look at our pond yeah i'm happy with that there we go okay now the most important thing going on here right now is this joint this is the only joint that we have at this moment okay you want to put enough pressure on this joint that it pulls the tiles nice and flush together you don't feel a ridge two fingers and a thumb like that you'll get a handle on how much pressure it is that this works with what's good and what's bad you're going to want one there one in the middle on the other side you see the gap resist the temptation you don't have to fill that with cement remember we're looking for the 80 rule all right we're just going to go with our next row as soon as we measure this off with our laser level so the actual height of the tile is irrelevant we want to have the same distance to the laser line from each end of the stone okay before we get going that's how we know we're level and i'm getting the line right on the tape measure itself i'm not trying to read the line on the wall i'm 14 and a half just on the low side of that i'm 14 and believe it a quarter isn't that amazing okay it's an easy fix we're a quarter inch out but you can see here i'm about an eighth of an inch out so what i'm going to do with this [Music] raise that side a little bit i'll try that screwing again [Music] all right let's measure that again this time 14 and a quarter on the money perfect every time so now i've got something that i can build on that's going to be perfectly level so here's a recap so now we've got we've got our first row we've got our lines identified for the the outside our center line we perfectly level we know that we've done the math this should come out to be exactly 94 inches from the ceiling let's find out if we're there on this side it should say 94 and a quarter actually according to my measurements bam 94 and a quarter okay now i know that i've got exactly the right hole plus a little room for grout at the top the other side i think it's going to be 94 and 8 because it was a little bit different height perfect 94 and 16. i remember with my grout line i'm going to be exactly 94 at the ceiling so i'm gonna have a sixteenth to like three sixteenths i'm sorry three eighths a growling no three 16. yeah i like that better which is perfect so now we're going to have to deal with how to level the tile as we go up with the horizontal because we're covering a bow okay that's a lot trickier than you think because we're going with horizontal lines whenever you have movement if you have your tile the long way is perpendicular to the the bowed stud the tile can follow the contour of the wall pretty good so it's not that big of an issue i mean if it's really exaggerated it'll look stupid if you stand right up to it you can always take some drywall off cut the stud push it in and throw in a screw and that'll straighten it out for you we also need edging okay knowing the end from the beginning i went out and picked up some of this plastic edging what this is is a three actually a three-eighths edge okay and it goes over the edge of the stone like that because porcelain is not natural stone has a different color and texture than on the face so this is used to cap it all right and that gives it a really nice clean look it also gives you something up against the drywall that you can fill the gap in behind this add a little bit of mud or a caulking and then paint it in and make everything look seamless right so what we're going to do here [Music] one of the reasons we wanted to leave some room here for the first stone so that this can slide in behind now for the rest of this installation i don't want it sliding in behind okay i'm just gonna install that nice and long i'm actually going to um uh put this with cement i'm gonna travel it in now from now on in okay just a little bit to get it in position and then i'm not going to have an issue okay that's how we finish that edge and of course we've got to deal with our electrical plugs this is why you need a grinder because with a grinder you can cut any size hole anywhere anytime and usually in in smaller holes like one by one for plumbing fixtures you can do that from the back side you don't have to go and buy special diamond tip drill bits for the your drill or anything like that one grinder is a one stop shop you can tile anything with a grinder if that's the only tool you have to tile with a grinder can make every cut you're ever going to need guaranteed okay or your money back [Laughter] now when dealing with your electrical make sure your power is off okay and tape your screws while you're at it there's always somebody that goes downstairs and goes oh my god the breaker's off and it gives it a flick because they're not not thinking right so like just do that you pull it out keep it horizontal everything is slide over top we're going to do is we're going to measure the size of that box okay including the screw holes because remember this is where the the screw goes into that hole and this should sit over top of the plate but now it's going to sit over top of the tile so we want to cut right at the top of that where that hole is so that screw goes in i'll show you in a minute but ideally measure from the stone okay and looking like five and a quarter is perfect and on the other side one and a half is perfect okay so we got one and a quarter i'd say five and a half oh no five and an eighth one and a half wow measure twice cut twice all right and then we also want to measure from here coming across that to me looks like five and three quarters and then seven and seven eighths there we go so i'll take my stone here and i know it offends a lot of people when i call this stone but my god it sure feels like it when you're carrying it doesn't it um let's put on our left to right first five and three quarters now i'm using a black marker not everybody should use a black marker on tile even a polished tile it doesn't necessarily wash off okay so don't take it for granted um i'm quite comfortable with it though so we're just going to kind of draw that square a little rectangle there and remember you've got options with cover plates you can go standard size cover plate which will cover it no problem or you can go with a king size plate like oversize and even if you make a little bit of a mistake with your grinder don't sweat it and get a new stone okay just make sure you have oversized plates with you when you're working you can always check the oversized plate versus the hole because when you install this it goes left and right it slides around on the screws so you got a little bit of play there it's not really a big issue all right that's that one i figured before we grind we might as well get the other measurement for the other one too all right guys i'm going to go outside now and just cut my stone only takes a minute now because there's so many different kinds of material and different kinds of cutting tools that are out there if you want to do another research project i did a video not too long ago but all the different cutting tools for tile and different kinds of tile use what tool for so you can check out the link for that in the video description we'll throw a card up here as well for those of you who are on a device and you can actually click a card otherwise i'm just going to go out and make a few quick cuts and let's get back to the install okay here we are we'll set it on the clips all right make sure that you set the clips just before the tile in a clean joint you won't ever get cement squishing out and that is the ultimate problem that you're going to run into okay we're just going to set them in place for now we'll squeeze them all once we get the other tile because you want to you want to establish all of these see this tile here this can be pounded in a little bit still don't forget we have the rubber mallet for a reason we have the ability for an hour or so to really play around and set all of our depth just perfect so don't be afraid in too much of a hurry to say oh i got a clip i'm going to cramp it down because you might be setting everything too close or too far off the wall get a couple rows in and always be tightening things up behind where you're working and you won't run into this issue this is one of the most famous boards ever spoken on hgtv back butter oh boy oh boy oh boy if you know how to back butter you must be a tiler this takes the same skill as buttering toast does not make a tile trade pro you can tell in the job like this that although it's not overly complicated it is time consuming and so if you're going to hire somebody to do a tile project for you make sure you can afford to pay someone the amount of money that it's worth to get that project done or just learn how to do it yourself because a good tile guy don't be surprised if they're 150 or 200 an hour it's not because they're making a fortunes because the cost of business is expensive let's make a bit of a mess on purpose here oh yeah now it looks like every other homeowner right how do you clean that up jeff how in the world okay a couple quick issues here this area you're not going to get any mud there with the trout so take it over to the tile put a nice dollop take the heel and clean it up okay make sure you get all the extra cement out of the way and get your sponge and cement's messy every time you get something on your sponge just clean it now take the edge of the sponge with your finger okay right here problem solved now you can take your clips you want to get two in behind here because sometimes same thing you don't want any cement in the way okay push them in nice and flush down this way because that's a 1 16 spacer if you have it raised up like that you got the wrong size gap potentially okay here we go and we should put one for every foot i think hey max why not they're not expensive all right here we go i think we're ready to roll take the tile now set it on the clips it's also nice because there's clips it means you're not laying stone against stone and risking chipping the glaze electrical make sure there's a nice gap here so you can close clips in the way slide it over gentle i'm gonna make sure that this gap is lined up perfectly something is wrong because this is opened up wider so when in doubt use one of these little spacer clips make sure it's in contact with the ceiling behind the tile and that'll be enough to hold that in position for the next little while you can put these in with your fingers just fine okay you just put it against the edge if you're not catching an edge you know you're good that's actually really good now i have a little room to go closer to the wall up here [Music] all right [Music] okay the other thing you want to do right here off the edge i already have my first problem get the cement away from the edge now you want to use the clip going behind and bring that nice and flush use as many as you need that makes it perfect this gap is easy to clean up afterwards all right you want to have no visible line here okay you don't want to have to rely on the grout to clean that up so use the wedges and make it nice and snug and if you need to cheat and put some backer in there just to fill it up so that when it's dry it's not going anywhere you can take a little bit of cement and finger that in here okay just in a couple of spots all right okay there we go so now we've got some backer when it's all set up it's not moving generally speaking the rest this won't be an issue there's cement on it so make contact with the tile every time i stick in the wedge it'll make it perfect now we're just gonna do the whole rest of the wall piece okay now for people who don't want to spend 20 on the wedges and the clips and you want to spend six dollars on just the spacers you can i'll show you how to use them problem is you're going to get lippage but i'll show you how to use it anyway just because now the difference with these next spacers you don't have to be quite as meticulous while you're working okay because you're not having anything in behind the tile all you're doing with these spacers is setting them in place after you put the stone on all right so let's back butter a tile and i'll show you what i mean i want to have to come up with a new phrase like there's not a there's not a home renovation show on the planet that doesn't use that phrase and i don't know why now in this case you have to be more careful because you don't have the clips in place to protect the edge of the tile so you got to use your fingers okay got to get it in place this where it gets messy you want to wash your stone before you open this up to put in the clips and lift and stab the danger here is as you're lifting you're also putting pressure and see right away this is in further than this one so then you have to be real careful to watch your lippage that's it all right the next day when that product is dry just take a pair of pliers you can grab it even if it's buried in cement and you can pull it straight up okay and so that the one good thing about this system is it guarantees that you aren't going to get big chunks of plastic stuck in your grout line that you have to remove because you can't grow it otherwise so there's a given to go here but i prefer to just work clean and use the tile leveling clip system get a better result okay well now that that's done i think it's looking pretty damn fine um i'm going to continue the video but tomorrow we're going to grow this thing in the video three notes one work clean i just did cement work all day long and i'm still i could go for dinner uh clean your tools when you're finished at the end of every day and i usually like to do it halfway through the day as well okay because if you keep your cl tools clean then you're not going to be tempted to throw them in the garbage and waste money secondly if you live in some areas in this north american climate or around the world you're going to find the code requires you to use cement board as a backer not drywall generally that's the case in areas where they're prone to earthquakes um the problem with going stone on a wall in an earthquake zone is that there's so much shaking that the paper delaminates off the drywall under the weight of the tile okay and so you don't want that crashing down and becoming part of the problem so make sure you check out your codes other than that we're going to come back tomorrow we're going to use a grout it's going to be an unsanded grout we're going to get it done nice and quick and then we're going to be able to show you what this looks like when the feature wall is all finished you know and for those of you who aren't familiar with our channel you know my name is jeff we do a lot of renovations and remodeling projects on our channel it's not just design aspects so consider subscribing to the channel hit the bell for notifications and get in the comments section let us know who you are and the kind of projects you're working on and ask questions feel free i'm in the comments section every day and i love to help cheers okay it's next day boom we're ready to roll now listen just a word of warning whenever you're using a tile clip system always give it 12 hours bare minimum to dry before you go removing it okay you are exerting force and like away from the wall as you take these things off you don't want to risk if you didn't have good adhesion and the cement isn't quite cured yet right so just give it the time don't be in a hurry all right it's not going to kill you to leave this project and go to do something else and come back to this the next day anyway now is the moment you're all been waiting for you want to know how do we get rid of these clips well there's two ways one is with a rubber mallet let me demonstrate that way first and remember the way that this works is the clip is this way behind the tile so to break that joint you got to go the opposite direction leave the yellow thing in there it's actually part of your friend here oh done the reason you're using a rubber mallet is because you don't want to mess up your tile right this won't destroy the glaze ah it's like asmr really it's like therapeutic or if you don't want to go and buy rubber mallet you can always use a tape measure that works too because it's got rubber edges on it and it's not going to mark the tile so now we're going to see if i know what i'm doing and if i continue to work clean every single one of these should break out without leaving a tab behind now you remember we used a different system earlier in the tile just use these little squares see that there's a lot of compression on this type of thing you can't just pull it off with your finger dang that now you can decide which system you'd rather use all of these uh little yellow wedges here they're perfectly useful again so the next time you have a tile project all you got to do is go out and buy more of the clips and you can reuse these wedges over and over and over and over again so it actually becomes a lot more affordable than you thought now the next time you do a major tile project you only got to buy 10 of the wedges you're right back in bed all right guys so i'm at the store the other day and i'm looking at all the different groups and i was amazed to see that they're selling pre-mixed grout in this little bucket that's about this big it's 30 bucks so this box right here costs 20 and uh i'll be honest with you it makes uh four times as much crap so if you're only doing one tile project in your entire life then maybe it makes sense get the pre-mix i've never worked with it i have no interest in knowing i just don't see the logic in buying something that's been sitting in a tub and a shelf for months at a time just to expose it to the air and then it's going to be anyway enough said um when you're mixing unsanded grout it's incredibly sensitive if you ever make pancake batter you know like most guys who watch this channel you know your cooking skills are probably at least you make pancakes once in a while so it's just a little bit of water and that's a lot that'll probably make enough grub for the whole wall okay and since you probably are not very proficient i would suggest starting off with three parts powder one part water okay and you'll see what happens here we're gonna mix on slow [Music] no that's still pretty soupy i like a little stiffer than that so now what we do is we just work with like a little bit of a handful at a time and if i gotta add a little bit more water what i'll end up doing so take my sponge right and i'll just go like that because that's a lot of water when you're mixing grit i know it's crazy but remember we have a 1 16 grout line not a whole lot of product needed for this job [Music] clean the tool now the reason that i'm a big fan of mixing your own grout hey it's more economical but b if you've ever been to a big box store you always see that lineup of people there that are doing returns what you don't want is to have an experience where you've got a temperature sensitive material from a northern climate that froze during the winter and was returned in the spring because that happens that'll ruin your whole job okay what you'll end up with is you'll start working with it and it just won't cure if you've ever seen the comments section in these videos you'll see people go you know i tried that pre-mixed grad it just wouldn't dry that's because it was frozen once changed the chemical composition now you're screwed because you got to wash all that out and then go about buy more of it now if you live in the south you're going to get frozen grout so no big deal but if you live in the north grout and silicone i just don't like buying pre-mixed like silicone is dangerous i'll always open up a new box in the back of the shelf i just don't trust the stores or the return policy why they allow people to return sensitive weather sensitive materials to those stores in the first place is beyond me i once had a job where the company i was working for this is years ago they actually supplied me with a silicone that had been in a bin in the shed well they had a storage facility but it had been frozen so i finished this massive elaborate bathroom pulled out this clear silicone installed all the custom glass did the rest of it taped it up secured it came back the next day it didn't set this was a massive project and for seven dollars the client was outraged right seven dollars just not worth it i'm telling you right now what you're going to need is a grub float this is massive by the way this is for like doing an entire floor but it's here and it's clean so i'm going to use it um there's not much to this like let me just say for the purpose of the video you should always wash your tile first oh just in case there's a little smudge here a little smudge there yeah i know i'm going with a bone-colored grout which is a brown and so my cement isn't brown i actually had a little bit squeeze out there so what you do is you just force that rag in there back and forth a few times if you're working on your tile the next day the cement will actually dissolve in the water and you can wipe it out if you leave it for 48 hours though you got to use a tool to clean all right so if you ever put on tile on a wall always clean it the next day make sure it's in your plan to clean it the next day because anything else can be disastrous it's really hard to see this on camera so i'll take it off first i use wood and shim for this if you have a um a plastic spatula or something it'll work too you can see that eh okay that's a wax coating usually comes off a hell of a lot easier than that holy cow this here it's on all four corners of the tile when they put the tile in the box they put back to front back to front and so in the assembly line they actually have this protective wax applied to the face of the tile okay so that the stone in the box during shipping and all the vibration and wiggling around isn't in contact with the glaze it's just a millimeter but it does the job and it protects the stone during shipping okay if it doesn't have something like this they'll pack it glaze to glaze back to back but this is the most common way to do it when you're buying something that's quality all right so i'll go get the rest of this off and then we can grout ah there we go all right this stuff is uh thick like peanut butter okay it's any runnier than that you're in trouble generally because when you wash the tile there's always a little water left behind it helps make the application easier so you don't want to have grout that's already runny because as it picks up the water it gets runnier now you want to grout right in up against that plastic edge there okay it's always going to be a little bit of a bead so make sure you do that once it's on the wall you take the side clean it you got a nice ridge you can force it in the top grub floats have uh two different corners on them one is rounded one is square inside corners like this you want to use the rounded you want it to actually go in convex okay and then after while it's drying it might shrink up a little bit but that's fine at least it'll still be full and the goal here is to get a nice clean line that i can actually um apply some clear silicone to afterwards okay and that's it now and that sets up and it's gonna look quite pretty yay and i'll probably have to make a second batch just because this gap up here is so huge it's gonna take a lot of this away one of the benefits of having a lot of diy skills is when you do something like this if you don't like how much grip you see up there before you put the silicone on you can always come back and apply more drywall compound okay you can actually lower the ceiling to create a straight line which is what i'm gonna do ah my wife hates it when the joints at the ceiling aren't consistent ah happy wife happy life eh now i wanna clear one thing up because uh see a lot of examples on the internet especially on youtube people will do grouting jobs right and they're going to show you to to use this on a 45 degree angle right to have the trowel open 45 but the truth is about the 45 it's not just the tool it's the direction you attack the grout line if you come straight across you're going to trap air okay so you want to start like this and always on a on an angle across the joint go in two different directions if you need to once it's full then you can run across and clean it out makes sense you can't just have the two lm45 you actually got to apply it under 45 you want to ridge that in that motion forces the group nice and deep into the gap okay and that will give you really good performance nothing worse than finishing off a grout job and then after it's drying little air bubbles appear because all you got was a bit of grout on the surface because you trapped air right so this is how you avoid that [Music] boy it's nice and hot up here on the ladder in the summertime eh even with the air conditioning okay so for anybody out there who's confused why is jeff using poly blend from home depot um it was convenience like i told you before home depot's just like a convenience store and sometimes it's just convenient to go there right my favorite store is on the other side of town from where i live i wasn't driving all the way across town just to get my favorite grout so that one has a polymer modified grout application as well so similar to the one i told you not to use in my other video we'll link that in the video description but because i'm dealing with cold water with my washing and with my mix and there's not a lot of product here i'm more than confident i can wash this before it sets up i'm going ahead with it but if you're a first timer watch that video and then you can decide for yourself if you think it's worth it to use this polymer modified stuff has its advantages but my goodness if it's a hot day outside you know you could be in a lot of trouble which is why i'm starting up here first because it's a lot warmer near the ceiling in the summertime in canada even with air conditioning right so you just don't want to let this stuff get ahead of you there look at that it's already working out great so the first step here is just to polish it in get rid of the excess all right having excess grout on the tile if it dries is a real problem so now i've worked it i know i've got a few minutes so now i'm clean i'm gonna keep that convex curve with my finger and just get a nice grout line pretty pretty pretty pretty all right now when we're washing we're going to wash down we're going to flip the sponge over and white one more time don't touch it again okay it's a damp rag not one that's dripping and you set it and forget it okay whatever's left on the glossy tile after that process will wipe off later on okay it's gonna be such a watered-down version of whatever is on there it's not worth trying to polish it off okay let it all dry up you can come back with a rag later and wipe it off haze is just haze unless it's epoxy and it's not haze it's still epoxy that's the whole washing cycle right there okay contrary to the grout line all right now we're in a situation here where we got opposing ground lines all you need to know here is you wipe it off the same way you applied it okay on a 45 done piece of cake why is it every time i grow i explain how to do it like gordon ramsay makes a burger bun on lettuce here we go so i'm just gonna do the next section polish it and be careful when you're polishing because you should be using a grout that's very similar in color to the actual stone an area like this you want to make sure oh okay that's the stone fine i don't have any residue if it's hot um resist the temptation to use a fan if you're using polymer i know it'll feel more comfortable but all you're going to do is set everything up all that much faster sometimes it's just safer to sweat than it is to be comfortable now we'll go to the top on the other side you want to wash in the same way that you applied it so that you have the same drying time try to keep things consistent here we are nice when i put the sponge in the water i'm actually squeezing it forcing the sponge to excrete and fill back up with water again get as much of this out of the product out of the sponge as you can if when you're wiping you see a lot of residue left behind it's time to change your water okay you don't want to do more than 50 or 60 square feet of any kind of product without changing the water all right wax on wax off here we go okay now guys listen just real quick i know there's a lot of people out there showing you how to do custom carpentry design elements feature walls but listen here's the deal the amount of tools it takes to do really good custom carpentry you're probably looking at three to four thousand dollars in tools to do a good job to be able to tile like a pro will cost you about 150 bucks i'm just saying if you take a look at the investment until maybe 200 but the investment of tools and then the skill set is can you apply mud to two surfaces and stick them together and use clips to make it perfect anybody in the world can make a feature wall with whatever pattern or size tile or texture or gloss the options are endless just go to the local tile store take a browse you can be blown away geometric shapes no problem you want linen texture no problem you want things that look like wood or things that look like stone whatever you want to get they if all of this at the tile store the applications are always the same go with the skinny grout line a little bit of blood sweat and tears you can have a gorgeous feature well for just a fraction of the cost of the tools it takes to learn how to do carpentry just saying this tile here pretty sure it was running around seven bucks a square foot okay so it's expensive but what have i got eight by eight 64 square feet right so 64 times seven four five five tools seven hundred dollars all in tools and material you can do a feature while at home for seven hundred dollars you can buy a decent chop saw so that you can do carpentry in a bedroom wall but for same 700 bucks you can make a feature well come on this is the way of the future learn how to tile and then you've got a skill set that you can use to apply to every other renovation in your home start on a feature wall gain some confidence then tackle your bathroom project okay don't do your bathroom until you've had some experience this is a great place to start not a lot of cutting but all the basic skills are right here and when you're done you've got something amazing to put your bed up against that is money in the bank now we're going to show you the after project there's not much left to do here i'm going to do a little bit of touch-ups you can see over here now that i'm done growing i'm going to pull these out i'm going to wipe this up i'm going to get some drywall compound i'm going to fill the wall up to the plastics i'm going to level off that edge up there with some drywall compound it's going to be amazing we're going to show you the after projects when it's all done and all painted and all the baseboards installed i hope you enjoyed this project remember you're your best contractor and you can do this yourself now that's a feature wall right and remember this when you go to the tile store there's so many options out there any wall in your home can be a feature wall you can do a hallway and have great texture you can do the living room or the kitchen around fireplaces anywhere that you have a wall you can throw tile and now you know how to do it you can upgrade your home and maximize its value have a lot of fun with it hey guys jeff from home renovation here and today we are dealing with doors and trim um i just finished trimming it out which basically means to hang the door at the casings and so today's video is going to be all about how to finish from here like how to get the best finish possible one of the ways that you get good return on investment when you're doing your own diy projects is to know how to get a professional finish so today's video i'm going to show you brush and roll and i'm going to show you believe it or not the forty dollar wagner power sprayer we're to do both of these applications for finishing the doors and the trim so that you have options in your arsenal the preparation and the process is different for both i'm going to teach you all my insider tricks i'm going to teach you which products i like to use for my caulking and for filling nail holes all of this kind of information all right so that you can get a professional finish when you're doing your project let's just jump right into this because step number one is all about the prep and that means we've got to take the doors off of the hinges now i've got a process that i've developed over the years that works really effective for me what i'm going to do is i'm going to take this hinge off of here and then pop the other two pins to remove the door and then i'm going to finish removing all the hardware okay and when you go to install it again you'll find that by installing it on the two the two hinges and then screwing the third hinge on is going to save you a ton of time because even when they come from a supplier like i use you're a fan of my channel you know i like classic wood molding and they do all these doors custom for me okay so when they arrive they already got all the hinges in place and you just stick them together there's always little variances and it drives you nuts trying to put it together so if you're only installing two instead of three hinges anyway that's a lot to say remove the hinges but this is what we're gonna do all right so you've gotta get organized have maybe a ziploc bag or something somewhere that you can put all of your screws and hardware [Applause] okay boom now we're just going to pop the other two off boom okay hold it from the top all right one down okay now when you're finishing your doors and trim just get rid of the hinges don't try to be a superhero and paint around them cover them all up in tape this only takes seconds and it'll make sure your job finishes perfect every time the truth is it takes longer to put tape on than it does just to remove the hinge now you want to make sure that you're using here there's a lot of different companies make this stuff but it's a siliconized acrylic caulking this isn't a painter's caulking this is for doors and windows it's a 30-year product and it goes on really awesome just cut the tip on the angle okay and you want to do this first because this takes about an hour or so to dry closer to two before you can paint all right so you want to get all your prep work done get your caulking on as fast as possible and with the hinges gone you can do this gap right here and if that gap is cocked then your doors are going to look amazing at the end because you're not going to have that obvious gap behind every one of your hinges that everybody gets when they tape them on oh let me go so now we're going to get into what separates the men from the boys when it comes to your finishing work everywhere you have wood contacting wood even if there's a nail in there and it's got a nice tight joint most professional painters do not this joint here on the door trim okay and i don't know why because they're all guaranteed to crack at some point in time there's always going to be expansion contraction house and those joints will always crack now you don't want a lot of caulking in there because you've got a door closing right but a good finisher will always install this trim just a millimeter away from the door and then what you do you want to go with that cut tip almost flat to this piece you see there okay just on a bit of an angle and you're gonna add just a little bit of material so that it fills that gap without being a huge concave mess okay but you're still going to want to have a little something there this is where less is more you're going to want to do every joint in that same manner every joint even these little ones around here don't expect the paint to solve all your problems there's a gap now there'll be a gap later and if it's your house you can avoid the gap most uh track housing in north america is not built to look as good as it does the first day you buy it within a year okay they cut all kinds of corners and this is one of the ones they cut the most takes a long time to do your finishing trim properly but it is worth all the effort you put into it you also want to just put a tiny little drip right here on this corner even if you glue your joints if there's a joint here your best bet is to use the caulking to wipe that in okay just a bit of a rub and then get rid of all the excess make sure you don't fill the nail holes with it either that's not what caulking is for never use your caulking to fill a nail hole because caulking shrinks a little bit when it dries and you're going to get a bad look if you want to finish this you're going to want to use this product i know it looks kind of like something like the nfl would put together but the truth is it has a compound in here where it's um it's pink when it's wet and then dries white and that's how you know when to sand okay so here's the system less is more take your finger do a little dab and fill the hole okay that's it okay just a little bit of product because you don't want to have a whole lot of it sitting on here that you got to sand off the more control you use now the less work later you don't want it filling up all your contour okay and creating bumps and ridges and just get a little bit in that hole and then wipe it clean so when you're prepping your project remember caulking first one to two hours then you can do all your dry dex work right then you've got time while all that is setting up to finish off setting up your floor so you want to vacuum it out we're going to show you how to tape it all off so you don't have overspray on your flooring because remember the best way to do this kind of work is put the flooring down first then do all your carpentry on top of it one of the secrets to this process is paint your trim one coat before you install it you'll notice that when i do the drydex touch-ups and the caulking the caulking is white it only needs one coat the dry decks only needs one coat really so don't be too worried about this kind of thing if you paint it all first and you see flashing you can always touch up the dry decks a little bit if you need to but at least you're not going to be putting nails in that sort of thing within a couple inches of the floor right so you don't have to go right to the edge of the floor with your paint brush when you're trimming it in you can leave a quarter of an inch no one's ever going to see if it's one coat or two coat at the floor that's not a concern all right okay so now i got to clean up a little bit cut back some paper and do some taping okay get that out of the way so for the purpose of the demonstration today i'm going to be spraying this column and i'm going to use the brush and the roller on the other side but i'm going to show you the different ways to tape off here we go what i'm doing is i'm following the line of the trim i'm trying to tape see that that last little eighth of an inch don't care about it for the purpose of a sprayer you're never going to make that perfect the point is this when we're working with acrylic paints you're going to want to have either some nail polish remover with acetone in it or you can just buy a little jug of acetone at the hardware store you're going to have that as a backup in case you get any overspray and it's a good rule as a as a rule in general if you're painting your house have the acetone available surfaces like flooring and windows and that sort of thing you can clean the paint off real effectively using a q-tip and acetone and when we're here right we're creating an environment here where i'm not going to wreck my flooring okay i don't want to have to rely on the tarp alone for this well the only time i use painters tape is when i'm doing my trim bring the tarp up and around okay like that and only you're all asking what about this little space over here well we're going to cut a piece of baseboard we're going to install it with caulking only and then we're just going to paint it all in i'll show you that in a second got to make sure your paint's well shut there we are lovely so here is my suggestion for everybody out there who's working on their house if you're going to install your trim on top of finished flooring at the very least paint the bottom of your trim okay when you install it you can nail on the higher surfaces you never have to have a brush come close to the floor if you paint your bottom of your base first if you paint the edge of your casings first it's just the easiest money now when you're painting you want to paint with just a little bit of paint this is not the time to try to slap it on so thick that it covers in one coat the effective way to paint trim okay so that you don't get too much texture you don't get those paint lines from the brush use less paint use three coats if you need to this stuff here is going to dry in about 10 minutes and i can re-coat i'm just going to set it off to the side and re-coat okay and then i can cut it and install it and it's all finished don't have to worry about don't paint like this on your trim don't go like that okay look at look how horrible that looks looks like something painted from 1905 with lead in the oil you know it's disgusting there's so much paint there all right don't do it now i'm just going to take me a week to dry this out so we'll set this aside we'll let it dry and then we're going to cut and snap them in and we'll move on to the next part of the prep work because now my drydex is all finished i'm going to sand it all in and then i'm going to vacuum it all up because when you're painting dirt is your enemy gotta have a clean jobsite wash your brush between every use don't let it sit around because it'll be garbage in about 10 minutes so this is the kind of sanding block i like to use guys all right you get these at the home depot they've got the angle so i can do my drywall sanding but the coolest thing about this is even if your sponge is worn out from prepping your room you've got to still have good corners on these sides you hardly ever let that touch the wall now you get to use the other half the sanding sponge so don't throw them out if the front gets destroyed because what we're gonna do is we're gonna set these corners in every one of these grooves okay wherever we see there was dry decks recontour the trim all right so now the hole is filled but you can't even see the hole there's no material left on the trim so these ones are gooped up really good just to make sure to make the point of how this works right let's set that in the contour the next contour this little edge use the sponge to follow the contour you can you can press it right into the contour right and then i got one more ridge here bam now the hole is filled and the trim looks perfect you only get one chance to get this perfect okay and perfect is what you want to start with because everything you do for finishing work is a lot easier if you're working with a perfect surface [Music] there you go so at the same time it took me to sand down my trims this is ready to go now we're going to cut and install this sucker there we go one and five eighths one in just under a half so the secret here when you're doing this kind of work guys is the thickness of this trim is the same as the thickness of the case depending on your wall you might need to set it off the wall a little bit so you get that nice flush finish at the bottom so let's stick this in here first that's mildly proud interesting all right so i don't want to put a lot of adhesive on here or caulking all right i'll just put a few dabs we'll do and the one across the top that'll squeeze out okay here we go watch this squeeze it out all right then we're just going to want to it in place one down now the reason you don't want to use nails is because with little pieces of wood if you see the profile a lot of times you're hollow on the back you don't want to nail down here because then you got to touch it up and sand it right and you're painting close to the floor again if you put your nail up here you run the risk of snapping it and it could break in half okay so don't use any nails in small pieces well that's lunch it's hot up here today my goodness um we're gonna just take a quick break let it all finish drying then we come back we're gonna do all the painting all right guys last thing in the prep list kills right and the reason we want this is because whenever you're dealing with like a finger joint pine or any like wood that's not mdf you're going to have the occasional knot or stain area so you're going to want to try to preemptively strike this right so the trim that comes from my trim shop is all primed in advance if there was discoloration or staining that was going to come through i'd see it already and so most of this wood looks pretty darn good but there is this one stain right here that is a little bit of a knot imagine that that's all it takes mission accomplished now i got a bit of a drip here i don't want the drip so i'll clean that up here's the deal on the can it says wait an hour to paint it's good advice they put it on there because that speaks to every condition you're working in right but if it's warm and it's dry this will be good in about 10 maybe 15 minutes so you just want to double check as long as it doesn't wipe off you can brush and roll or spray so no worries love this stuff all right now we're going to start with painting with the brush okay if you're a fan of the channel you've maybe seen some of this information but we're gonna go through it anyway angle brush three two and a half whatever you're more comfortable with paint can get it empty to about here okay you want about an inch and a half of paint and you load up the brush and then you clean off the outsides especially the trim okay the more you clean the more control you have now nothing's dripping there's no mess okay you can work in your good clothes and when you're done your paint job you can go to sunday church not an issue all right start at the top and work your way down okay so you're gonna just set your brush and then drag okay and the goal here is not to get a perfect finish the first time the goal here is to get as little material as possible on there to get coverage okay so you want to keep stretching it out if you're not stretching it out then you're leaving all the paint on the wood and you're going to get ridges and when you go do your second coat you'll do the same thing because that'll be your habit of painting and you'll have too much paint hey you're going to waste a lot of money if you're not stretching it out and really getting good coverage you're wasting your money gallon of paint nowadays good paint like this costs 60 70 bucks in the store and you know it so less is more okay you want to get some coverage out of this stuff and then you work the top and you drag okay now i've been using dulux for years i'm very familiar with their products and i know which ones i love and which ones i hate i also like some sherwin-williams stuff i like some stuff from benjamin moore i like stuff from ppg i like stuff from pittsburgh paint i like a company called c2 paint there's a lot of really good paints out there what separates them from everything that's holding the box store is quality if you go to the box store for your paint you're not going to find quality i it's just the way it is it's like every paint company out there has got their top of the line stuff right and then they've got their decent stuff and then their commercial and all the garbage and they brand all the garbage and put it in the box store just being honest there's no way around it i don't care who you are if you have a problem with my opinion on that go ahead in the comments section blow it up let's have an argument or a conversation let's discuss the matter civilly but the reality is my experience in the paint market there's a bunch of different paint companies just like there's a lot of different automotive makers okay but in the paint world they make everything from the introductory piece of crap all the way up to lamborghini and every paint company makes the same stuff high end all the way down to crap because they want to serve every market that they have walking through the door for whatever reason i think benjamin moore might and c2 are the only stores that i'm really aware of that don't sell a real crap baseline right they don't sell a new home construction paint product line but almost everybody else does so you got to be careful when you go to the store you get what you pay for all right you can buy a 30 gallon of semi gloss trim paint and you need two gallons to do the same work as one gallon of this because it covers so much better one brush line three four feet of trim and i cleaned it off think about it there really is you get what you pay for in the paint world so don't be afraid to spend good money but if you're gonna spend money have good technique so you're not wasting your time because if you can paint in in one or two coats what it would take three or four of a cheap paint all right you're buying extra material thinking you're saving on the gallon price but using half the material with a good paint just saying that's also half the time brushing so you save a lot of time as well all right now here we go and then we pull all right here we are the reason i like to pull instead of go like this because we're not curling right we're just putting paint on and we're just running it down all right getting even distribution the less of that slapping back and forth of the brush the less paint is flying around the room the less cleanup afterwards you're going to thank me for that so that's how we do this all right we do every part of the trim that we see all right there we go we get it on get control and then we pull and you stretch it as far as you can now this is latex paint so we start the top and work down if for any reason you're working with an oil start at the bottom and pull it up okay it just performs better now you don't have to paint in the hinges but you don't have to be careful not to paint the hinges either it's not going to affect your day okay just make sure you don't leave paint sitting in that crease you don't have issues closing your door pull pull pull this is the rule just keep on pulling all right now you can go up like that and leave all kinds of paint in that corner right and then you can just pull from it see that that guarantees you fill all that crack up with the paint when in doubt you got a texture or something that's causing a problem go across grain and then you can pull it down whenever you find yourself having to go back the other way in order to get coverage it means you're running out of paint all right just keep on pulling now my brush is nice and dry i'm going to go back and clean up all the extra paint that i had sitting there okay now even with the good paint and this technique of stretching it out and pulling it you're trying to use as little amount of paint as possible to get your coverage all right and that's how you avoid all the brush lines too much paint leaves brush lines it's like a snow plow driving down the street all the extra just gets pushed to the side same with the brush okay so if you have too much paint and you see lines when you see ridges like this it means somebody use way too much material okay there's enough paint here to paint the rest of this trim way too much material and people who paint like that are throwing their money in the garbage and getting a poor result okay there's still too much material here i'm just gonna just keep on dragging this down until i get it where i want it wow i really put a lot of paint on there you get an idea how much coverage you can get from just a little bit of paint right okay let's talk about the bottom now to paint the bottom you want to pretend you're painting a ceiling so invert yourself and paint the same way you get upside down and now you start from the top and you pull the paint away okay you don't even need to have tape here you just use the tip of the brush to push it towards the edge of the wood and then you pull it away you're in control set the heel of the brush and then pull it up same thing down here you're going to want to get right underneath the bottom with the tip all right so when you set the brush and then you apply pressure you push the bristles down you don't want to try to start at the edge okay get close push the bristles down and then paint it okay that's it and you can paint with incredible accuracy and not even have to spend all your time taping everything up some people are going to argue that this is faster than using the sprayer but next we're going to show you why i use the sprayer instead of a brush because whenever you're painting trim you're also painting doors that's where having the sprayer makes the biggest difference so give me another two minutes i'll finish this up and move on to the sprayer and how that works all right so real quick a lot of people are going to be asking in the comments section what kind of brush to use jeff because like you know i want to use a brush that jeff uses and i'm like i use every kind of brush i see every time i see a brush for sale i've never used i buy it and i try it here's what i've learned over all my years whether it's eight dollars or fifty dollars like the caroma i'm working with here they all do exactly the same job sorry to break anybody's bubble um i know a lot of painters get really under the color about this oh you gotta have a party if you're not using purdy purdy's not the best thing in the world okay but it is a lexus it's a nice brush but they also sell a purdy brush at the local building store that's not the same quality as the professional purdy brush so how does a consumer how are you gonna know do you hear a party is the best and so you go to go to your local building store and they're selling a purdy and you buy it same company different product level different quality level don't spend 30 bucks on a brush at a local building store you're buying a 10 brush okay you're buying their name on a 10 brush i pretty may not be happy about that but maybe if they weren't trying to deceive everybody with their name on a piece of crap i wouldn't have to tell everybody so anyway feel free to buy a 10 brush go to your local sherwin-williams or dulux or benjamin moore say hey you got a 10 or 12 brush that's what i'm gonna buy i like a three inch angle that's my favorite i know lots of people who like a two and a half that's fine too but if you can carry a lot of paint and you paint with this technique a three makes everything so much faster and you can almost get one at the local dollar store the value of the brush really comes down to how often you're going to use it and how long you want it to last and how many times you can clean it without it falling apart okay as a homeowner if you're just doing a couple of rooms and you want to buy a three dollar brush at the dollar store that's fine but the hairs are going to come falling out while you're painting so just pay attention to that and wipe them off as you go and you can do a three dollar brush if you're going to be painting or you know a lot for the rest of your life then invest in a brush that you can wash and let dry and it'll have it in perfect condition day after day after day after day and you can have a brush like this last for a couple of years just saying it's worth the investment if you're going to be using it to make money all right so the same can that i had here right i added just a touch of water i want about 10 water and i'm just giving it a bit of a stir now you can't spray a semi-gloss 100 acrylic paint without adding a little bit of water you got to thin it out just a touch okay it's going to look like junk as it hits the trim all right here we go wagner power sprayer now remember how much we got done with just a few brush fulls imagine that's actually a lot of paint right there when you think about it compared to a couple of brush fulls let's see how far this goes okay so here we go we got our paint and we're going to turn it on it's going to make a little bit of noise and then i'm going to show you how this works the key here is to make sure that your flooring is all covered so you don't have over spray okay okay so here's what we're learning here guys and this is where experience comes in handy that's coming out too thick there's obviously not enough water in that mix to get a nice even spray so i got to brush this in now real quick before i have a mess on my hands and we're going to modify that so that we don't have a problem and we can we're starting on the frame for a reason because this is where you find out how your mix is working okay if it's too thick you can brush it in that's not a problem but you want to get this fixed up before you go and attack your doors all right here we go now that's just like any other brush and roll date yeah not bad here we go okay let's thin it out a little bit more and we'll try again okay so first i'm going to clean out the line with the old stuff here let's give this a try so we started with 10 now i'm at 20 water all right [Laughter] all right there we go that's pretty much the secret and you don't want to spray until you see full coverage spray until you see about 80 coverage and let the paint melt into each other okay it will do that you're seeing it now the streak the bubbly is all going melting into each other now that's brilliant all right now it's time for the doors we'll show you why i love having a spray gun for a door and so for this demonstration what we're going to do so i'm going to spray the top half all right actually i'll spray the bottom half because it's easier i don't have to bend over so much when i'm painting and then i'm going to brush and roll the top half and you can get an idea of the difference in the work and then the quality of the finish all right all right for the rolling i'm taking the full strength paint and using a mini roller little four inch with a microfiber roll okay i know a lot of people like to use a sponge roller when they're working with smooth surfaces but i like to just buy a good quality paint and then let the texture melt itself out and in this situation with the brush and the roller less is more with the sprayer you're going to find a little bit more is better now obviously if you're using a sprayer and you're going to resort to the wagner power sprayer on a door what you're going to find is that because it's blowing air with the paint there's going to be a texture there's going to be a little more eggshell to it and that's fine if that's the look you're going for just make sure you're consistent but if you want to have a nice smooth finish then using a roller and stretching out your paint and going that less is more concept is going to give you a better look personally i'm not a big fan of that so i'm going to roll that in but all i'm doing is working out the texture okay so you can spray the whole door and then come back and roll this all in nothing wrong with doing that at all all right now with the ruler with finish paint um a lot of doors out there are what we call six panel so you're gonna have all these different squares you got a lot more brushing and rolling the bigger the flat area the smoother you want this finished texture okay that means the less material you want on your paint roller all right you'll also get a benefit if you set up a couple saw horses and laid that lay the slab flat so that the gravity is melting the paint together in this situation because it's standing up it's all sagging so you got to be really careful not to use too much paint it's always easier to do a second or a third coat if you need to and use less paint okay there's just never anything wrong with that and if you find after your first or your second coat you've got little bits of junk okay grab the sanding sponge if there's too much texture in your paint grab the sanding sponge okay it's always your best interest between coats to make sure that you are completely happy all right and try to do three or four three or four sides every time okay a door has six sides so the first time you roll do both of the sides and across the top next time you turn it around flip it upside down and roll the bottom if you seal all the sides of the door your doors are less likely to warp especially if they're subject to the different levels of humidity throughout the year okay that'll help to keep your doors functioning properly year-round okay well that's it right just remember sand in between coats clean your surfaces get every part of it done and then when you screw it all back together your hinges will be clean and everything will be perfect that's money in the bank okay so just to recap in most cases when you're painting doors and trim less is more right always sand always prep there's more work that goes into a quality paint job when you're not holding the brush than when you are right remember when you're painting the inside of your house the average home uh 20 to 40 gallons of paint ceilings walls trims and doors do the whole inside of your house get five percent increase in the value of your whole house okay that's a lot of money and it's not a huge investment because in a lot of cases the the paint for a whole house you know the the ceiling paint in the wall paint it's a lot less money than it is for the doors and trim it's affordable it's a diy project you can afford to do yourself dress up your house make it beautiful and earn some money while you're at it hi in this video we are going to show you how i wrap these beams all right now these are my original color ties from my farmhouse we wrapped them created this h effect this is a great technique for any diy er to wrap a beam and make it from a beam to an architectural feature whether you're doing horizontal beams or vertical posts or you're installing faux beams all the information you're going to need is going to be in this video if you're painting or staining so let's just jump into this now we've got 16 foot lumber that we needed to bring up here so we couldn't bring it up through the staircase we brought it through the window we'll show you our tricks for doing that as well if you have questions about anything that's going on throw them in the comments section and don't forget give this video a thumbs up if you like learning how to do diy projects in your home that make your house worth more money cheers if you've got to work alone and you're going to wrap beam do yourself a favor get the right length of wood to fit so you don't have joints then you want to bring it into the room and let it climatize for a couple days all right if you don't let it climb its eyes when don't you do your cuts you can come back the next day and have huge gaps everywhere and it'll drive you nuts i'm just going to be pulling these 16s through the window and i'm going to use this paper towel as my lever point so i'm not going to damage my window trim all right now moving on to staining so before you stain i'm just going to explain my my concept for installation so this is going to be the bottom of the beam and it'll be nailed to the existing collar tie and then we'll have the 1x6 on each side and it'll probably hang about a quarter inch lower all right just so we get a natural h shape that means that we don't have to worry about warps and bends in the wood and inconsistencies and imperfections so that we have a really nice finish feature right so having an overhang makes all that really easy to do and it also means i only have to stain one surface of the one by fours so i'm gonna go one by four on the top and the bottom one by six on the side and at the very end i'll also nail a 1 by 4 to keep things from moving around but i'm going to push it down to make contact with the top of the collar tie like a sandwich and then the 1 by 6 will be nailed into the bottom 1 by 4 and the top 1 by 4 and both of those one by fours will be nailed to the color tile that gives me a lot of stability long term so i want to find four pieces that i really like that are going to be on the bottom that what i'm gonna be staring at and i don't know if i'm going to like it until after it's stained so muzzle stain them all now i'm using a oil-based wood penetrating sealer and when you reach into the bottom of this can with a shim i don't have a stir stick i just use a shim you're going to feel all the sludge in here okay and you're going to want to stir this up for a couple of minutes don't be lazy about it or your beans will all be inconsistent all right it really does take a couple of minutes to stir all this in and you can't be in a hurry because when the cans full you'll make a hell of a mess can't shake oil you got to stir it that's the thing there is a rule you can't shake oil products you've got to stir them now you could use a little mixing blade if you had one and throw it in there but you know you only have to do this once every couple of weeks it's not like paint where it separates by the hour once you've mixed this in the solution holds itself pretty good for a couple days so every time you open up the can make sure you give it a good stir and if you do something today and then do it again tomorrow just give it a stir for like a quick second or two i'm starting to feel pretty good about this let's check if there's solids collected on the bottom of that stir stick like you see there you're not done yeah i know but if you want to do it right you might as well do it right like don't go through all this pain and process and then you know stop stirring 60 seconds earlier to have blotches and inconsistencies and all right i'm happy with it now i'm using just a wiping pad because it's going to give me a little bit of control and i don't want to use a brush in this environment or i'll end up with all kinds of streaks okay and we'll just now the oil penetrating products if you have really dry wood you're going to want to get it wet first my benefit here is that this stuff was actually sitting outside yesterday and it rained so there's plenty of moisture the grain's already open i don't have to worry about that in this product all right if you don't like the way it looks you can always uh go to a gel stain all right because at least the gel stain you can leave more product on the material you don't want to do this kind of like artificially by just leaving too much product here it'll end up looking like really crappy tada beam now for me i'm not digging it i want it to be a little bit darker so what i'm going to do is i'm going to let this soak in probably about an hour or so so i'm going to go through all the beams get a coat on it's going to take a little while so i'm not going to film at all what we are going to do is show you a second coat application in about an hour all right and then that way you'll get an idea of what happens because it penetrates it doesn't mean you can't add more color you just got to take your time with it all right so let's just close this up for now we'll be back boom boom so i know it's a penetrating oil but we've already got some penetrated in the wood so now what i'm doing is i'm just dragging it on and i'm leaving a lot of excess because i'm looking to saturate my color okay this is all about timing because what you need to know about this is it's not really soaking in much right so now i'm trying to get it to soak in a little bit better just by dragging it on now we're going to give that about i don't know five ten minutes and then we're gonna just test a little corner and we'll see if we like the color and if not we'll let it sit a little longer these boards are longer than we need so we've got a few inches we can play around with with testing once we get the saturation we want then we'll give it a quick wipe well obviously things change right um i'm not going with the stained beam anymore i got the stain done let it dry overnight came back in the next day it was nice and sunny and i'm looking at the room and i'm like the color of this stain is just not turning dark enough to be a dark gray it's kind of like a blue gray on the pine and it might just be because of the wood and so it was like i have a really light green i've got a beige and gray tile i've got a gray floor if i introduce a fifth color in this room and it's blue it's just gonna be nasty so i flipped it over and i'm now installing all these beams and prepping them for paint so now you get a video that teaches you how to do it if you're staining or painting what a deal for me i'm just trying to make my life simple it's exactly the same construction as i was doing this is the h beam here okay it's finished the other two are done i saved this one so i can walk through the steps what i'm doing here is i'm just removing this metal bracket with my laser level on it i used that so that i could draw a line all along my ceiling to have all of my pot lights had a perfect positioning the roof line in this old farmhouse isn't perfect so you can't just measure down and over you have to gotta use a laser remember when you're working on these old houses right throwing a piece of three dollar angle iron and a laser with a magnet on it anywhere you can make everything perfect so what i'm going to do real quick is show you how i'm finding my angles because again it's a farmhouse i think it was originally designed to be a 45 but it has done a little saddling over the years all right so what you got here is a basic framing square everybody uses these as a speed square and you just slide it over and make contact with the ceiling now there i go contact with the beam contact with the ceiling now i don't know if you can see it but there's a gap down here almost big enough to put my finger in okay and when you take a look at this this is zero and that's 45 degrees okay and because there's still a gap i need to go even wider than 45 so i got to go more than 45 degrees been doing this a while i usually just run to the saw with a scrap piece of wood try like a 47 or a 48 and then come over here and check it and the reason i'm going to teach you that is because well every trade has got thousands of little cool tools for solving little problems such as what's the angle and if you don't want to waste your time with that you can just bam go out and grab a piece of scrap and you can take a look at that and go okay is that gap perfect no is it really close yes can i fill it with caulking and paint damn right so now we're ready to roll okay now i know it's 47 degrees i've done the math i've done these three beams already and it's the same on both sides so big surprise there now i've got to cut the lumber get it prepped and i'll show you how to install and pack the beam out there's a couple of great tricks and i made a special jig so that i can do this working alone these are 14 and a half feet long so you know you need a second pair of hands and i'll show you how that works too there's some of that stain wood put it to use i made myself a jig basically it's just a couple of screws and i screwed some boards on it now i'm going to put a piece of wood on the bottom but then after that i want that wood to be flush with one side okay now because of the way we're working with the filming i'm gonna go flush here and i want to put a little room in here so that the board can sit on it all right so i drop the back down and throw in a couple screws [Applause] okay now that'll carry the weight so now i can lift my board and slide it into place right and then i can work on the other side attaching it and then come down here and finish it off what this does is i can also put my first side on and even if it's warped or a little sloppy the shelf is really wide here to make sure that it can carry that weight without it slipping off that's it so now i've got the second pair of hands and i don't even have to pay them by the hour so we're going to follow through these steps real close because it's really easy to do once you get started as long as you have the actual dimension of the first piece of wood all right so what i'm gonna do is screw a piece of wood to this bad boy and try to make it look somewhat level here plum square all that jazz now i've got something to measure from two and somewhere to write the number down okay because we're dealing with this angle it's a little bit sloppy what i'm going to do is i want to run my tape off that would and then i want to hold it nice and tight and then run this over to get my number okay now i'm actually 83 to where i first touched the ceiling all right and that's really important that's the number you want 83 inches to the where i first make contact okay now from here that way it's 83 and three quarters i know that sounds wrong but i'm taking the actual measurement till i make contact my material is three quarter inch thick and because i'm going to use the same concept as when i cut on 45s okay here let me do this three quarter inch thick material cut on 45 degree angle this is a three quarter inch this is a three quarter inch dimension when you cut it on a 45 okay because we're doing paint and i'm going to use caulking and all that kind of thing i'm going to go with the same concept in the math so i don't have to really do too much difficult work here to get this location which is what i want so i can cut the board the right length if i measure to the point where i touch the ceiling and i don't include this extra three quarters of an inch i'm going to have huge gaps and i'm going to have thrown a 16 foot piece of lumber in the garbage and today's day you don't want to do that all right the other thing the jig does is it gives us the ability to test fit the piece i'm intentionally going to try to aim to be about an eighth of an inch long it's easier to wrap a beam if it's a little bit long than it is a little bit short okay you can always have a gap between the wood and this wood because we're gonna be installing the screws okay so this is the mat 83 inches plus the thickness to compensate for the slope bam plus that side look at that number now all right now we're going to measure the other side same thing under pressure first contact over here 88 and a quarter 88 in the corner 88 and a quarter 88 in the quarter that's in case the phone rings or somebody asked me a question until i write it down okay and that's from here going this way now i also have to add the three and a half 160 171 172 175 and a half let's see if that's right 160 171 172 175 and a half boom there's my number that seems really long oh wait a minute [Laughter] i'm an idiot i've measured the thickness of this board twice my bad okay ah so we'll take it this way minus the three and a half yeah i was like it should be around 170 or 169 i've done three beams already i should know better 160 171 172 minus boom one 68 and a half plus 171 72 yep good whenever you're doing math on the fly like that if you're doing a subtraction once you get your number add that number back and see if you ended up where you started working up here on the ladder it's a little hotter right the brain starts to fry okay so now we got our number this is what we're going to work on that's the first number that's for the bottom the one by sixes okay what we're going to do is we're going to add about 3 8 of an inch to that number so i'm going to actually cut it at 169. i'll add the full half because generally when you're cutting angles if you're a little bit off and you take too much material off if you've started with just a little bit extra mercy it'll be nice and snug at the ceiling if you get up there and you can't fit it in it's it's fine come down and take a second cut right measure once cut twice that works every time and you never end up throwing anything in the garbage remember the cost of wood these days it's better to have to cut a second time because you're gone a little long than to have to throw something in the garbage where the hell else am i gonna use something here that's half an inch too short now we don't need this here anymore this is now my cutting list goes next to my saw first thing i do is i'm going to cut the length and then i'll add the angles you come over here get the little bread on 47. what i want is i want that point right on the 147. sorry i'm 47 and i go to there and then i push down on the handle and lock it in place now you want to focus on this corner to set the board in the right place because the blade comes down and obviously it's not making contact with the yellow piece it's cutting right next to it so you want to stick it about an eighth of an inch out and get to know your saw everyone's a little different some saws even have a laser line that makes life simple but i don't like to pay for a laser i start my cut okay so i know i have to make an adjustment so i'm just going to go shimmy i'm going to push down into the back there we go [Music] and if you can make a perfect end cut then i'm maintaining the mercy in that piece of wood that i originally measured with right always keep that mercy oh for the love of god what's up okay whoops i'm so busy showing you how to cut and use the saw i'm cutting a side not the bottom um this should have been cut this way [Laughter] [Music] lucky me i bought one extra piece of wood oil because i knew something like this was going to happen [Applause] well i'll save that for trimming out a window i've been at this so long kind of funny because i have uh i have a window in the bathroom and a window in my spare room that both have to have the jam extension done still so i haven't cut the wood to do that just in case i had leftovers or i screwed up a cut always cut the longest stuff first and work your way down in size because if you make a mistake on the long one you can still use it in the room right okay let's get the length here first [Music] here we are find that 47 lock it down [Applause] i like to remove this stuff as i go because if it's laying there the blade will catch it and kick it up in your eye and that's dangerous if you don't have spare material laying around you generally in my opinion don't need to use safety glasses but you know that's because i'm crazy all right i just confirmed that the long side of the board is here this is the bottom that's good you don't want to cut the opposite angles because then then you're really out of wood all right i don't have enough backup for all of those different scenarios here we go okay another tip for you well i'm thinking about it buy yourself a garbage can keep it under your saw so that when you're working you throw all your debris in there and you don't have to pick it all up at the end of the day why do it twice you know when we're in the trades if you touch something you you put it where it goes you don't just set it on the ground or move it from a to b if it's garbage it goes in the garbage if you touch it as soon as you pick it up don't waste your time and have to make someone else touch it again right you'll find that uh it'll be really good for your workflow follow that advice here we go get the long side first thing we'll do is we're going to lift it up onto our jig all right okay so the other side i just started flush the beam itself is really warped and i'm gonna try to straighten it out a little bit but because the jig is pulled tight to the side all right i just there we go and there we go now i'm going to come down through the middle throw a few more screws in and i'm going to try to get rid of the bow i don't know if the bow is in the beam or in the wood you you don't need to worry if you're a little too far on one side of the other you always want to have your material wider than what you're attaching it to give yourself mercy we're going to be attaching with screws and brad nails okay using caulking so how perfect everything really isn't as important as making sure that you're not creating a huge gap to fill with caulking later i can only just do so much here all right i'll call that good enough all right now take our length we're going to add a little bit more we're going to cut it on a 1 by 6 on the flat this time and attach the face one quick tip make sure you get a old sanding sponge right that you've used for drywall it's kind of worn out it's the perfect grip just to clean up the edges get rid of the burrs we're going to be using caulking and stuff in here to connect with the ceiling and the wall paint later so you don't want to have those little chips off the pine all right get that out of there you can't sand that later so just get it done now and then your fingers will thank you because when you're running that caulking bead you can stab the end of it god it gets infected so easily when you have acrylic caulking inside your skin there we go okay come on door there we go that's just easier now just for the record um as long as you set your jig lower than you're planning on finishing with the height you're guaranteed to fit in the room here the uh we we've made it a little longer on purpose so that it drops below so that we have a joint that we can actually but it should go in without too much difficulty just want to set it right there for now okay there we go [Applause] i know this all looks really odd right now but my main beam has got a bow to it and this is going to square it off so i'm setting this where i think it's going to finish after i straighten all this out i'll be able to come back over here make an adjustment but i'm going to go to the other end and try to get that in the right position first tell you if you can renovate these old houses you can build just about anything ah okay look at look at the warp that's on this board i don't know if it's the board or the beam if i attach it this end i'm in trouble yeah so what i'm going to do is i'm going to leave it on the jig and i'm going to go and i'm going to set screws i'm going to force that beam up and set screws all the way along and straighten this out uh huh that does have a bow see how it opens up a 1 by 6 is making perfect contact here we go at least we have an answer if everything's agreeable you can just use some brad nails a couple of screws to hold it together but because i'm fighting every inch of the way i'm actually screwing all this together just to try to find some consistency in it so it doesn't look too stupid okay thank god for caulking okay now we're going to just uh swing the jig around to the other side not worry about the holes we're going to add to the surface because we're going to come by with our dry decks later which is what all these little white spots are we'll stick the other side on the next step once you've got all three sides is walk away don't worry about the top if you try to construct something and you want to put a filler in the top you can if you've got room in this case it's an original four inch tall board plus three quarters plus three quarters makes it five and a half which is exactly the dimension of a one by six so that would mean that everything would have to be flush and square and perfect in order to cap it and not look stupid and that's not happening in this house so i'm just going with three sided beam like a basically glorified u channel sliding over top ah anyway next step of course is to fill all the holes so let's just get on with the next few steps and we'll show you what the finished product looks like all right here's the plan all right i'm using my four inch knife i'm coming out the hole from a couple of different sides getting rid of all the burrs okay you can't fill up with the wood burrs there it's just gonna make a mess and slow down your your production there we go okay fill and press you should have a bit of a hump with the material left over that's normal when you're filling a screw hole it's gonna shrink a little bit so don't be afraid to leave a little extra material in there tridex perfect every time this stuff here is a pink dries white so you know when it's ready to stand um it's uh yeah you know it is what it is uh there's not a whole lot of spackling out there that doesn't shrink anything that claims that it doesn't shrink it's in context of spackling that really shrinks all right this stuff doesn't shrink that much right so as long as you're filling brad nails or small cracks or if you've just sunk your screw just below the surface you're gonna be fine like i did the the dry decks on that beam over there i did that about an hour or so ago maybe hour and a half like just before you we started filming yeah so you know and it looks ready to sand already so that's not too bad on a project like this if you can finish the install and then do all your spackling and then do all your sanding and then all your priming and then all your caulking you know you got a few rounds in the room so it's okay if each round takes a few minutes um this one isn't going to hold you too bad right on the other beam i actually did the spackling and then i did the priming underneath so that i was ready to as soon as everything was dry it saved me a bit of time anyway let me just shut up and i'll get on to finishing this all right so here are the phases in order to do your finished work dry decks let it dry okay sanding and don't just stay in the dry decks check all your edges okay and all of the planed edges from the factory okay the smoother your surface the better you will be over here i actually use dry decks to fill up a knot hole and i'm reshaping that and that's still pink because it's drying so we're going to leave that alone after you sand your drydex you're ready for primer okay i like using an interior drywall primer hey it's cheap b i'm always going to be using it for drywall and c it works great on wood all right now brush and roll doesn't have to be pretty just has to get wet okay this is a primer sealer product okay and you want to get all the sides now in a case like this boom i just realized i missed a hole great opportunity okay don't grab caulking because the next step after you prime is to use your caulking don't go ooh i'm gonna cheat don't do it don't do it because it'll shrink and then it'll be a hole again okay just do that in the primer now you've primed the dry decks before it's dry ah new trick i showed you here if you get a hole and you're painting stop quick grab the dry decks rub it in with the paint now this is basically garbage now but that's fine problem solved now that paint and the dried x can dry together and it's already primed so you don't have to come back and you don't have to sand it and you won't have to prime it again and create all that extra work okay the reason you prime before you do the caulking is because acrylic latex door and window caulking bonds much better to a painted surface than it does a fresh wood surface okay that's why i did all this earlier so now it's dry and we can demonstrate how lovely it is to work now it takes a lot of time to sand everything perfect okay through the whole room on your projects and then come to caulking what i suggest is you sand some section and then do the caulking right away after like i'm sorry after you prime it so i'm going to sand and prime and a beam then i'm going to stand in prime and a beam it doesn't hurt to change the tools up because here's the deal the sanding and priming and the caulking time after i've done the third beam this one's now dry and ready for me to finish paint if i do all my stages all the sanding and then all the priming and then all the caulking i finish off caulking and i'm waiting an hour before the caulking is dry okay so keep that in mind this stuff takes a good hour or more to set up before you can paint so think about how much time it's going to take you to do your stages and don't be afraid to get something with caulking on it as soon as possible so that it's dry when you're ready to start painting you don't have to sit down and waste half your day waiting for stuff to dry right cool now after we have everything installed and dry next and sanded and primed and cocked then we can paint the sucker still going to need two coats of something i'm going with the same trim paint as i use on my doors and i'm just going to use a mini roller and a brush to clean up my edges and this all be done so let's take a look at the finished product [Music] well here we go guys what do you think of that i think it's a great look i think it's something that any diy er can do now listen if you're wondering where you can find a 16 foot lumber or up to 20 foot lumber you can google search real quickly there's always going to be a local wood or mill company here in ottawa i love to go to wood source it's my favorite place to shop for anything dealing with something that grew out of the dirt bottom line is this is a project that you can do yourself and you can earn great return investment your house remember most renovations only get you about 70 cents return on the dollar if you hire somebody but if you do it yourself you're making money hey guys it's jeff from home rental vision here and today i'm here to talk about my new closets this is my master bedroom and i've got his and i've got hers so we're building underneath the slope so it's a little bit tricky and because of the design this old farmhouse in order to get the room nice and big what we're doing is we're putting in modular closets that's the name of the company we've gone with and we're going to put them all tower systems and everything else with drawers it eliminates the need for any furniture and we're going to go from something really basic and simple like this to this and this and i'm going to take you on the whole process right from going online and ordering and measuring and then installing and building these things it's going to be a lot of fun and i think if you want to get a really spectacularly sexy closet then this is a great solution for you too let's get going now designing a closet really starts online but all you have to do is since we're building our own is make sure that your interior finish dimension that you've got about 26 inches of depth okay and the reason for that is when you're hanging clothes you know 24 inches is comfortable but giving yourself a little bit more distance is really beneficial so that when you close doors you're not always catching a sleeve in it or something right so let me get this i know i'm getting old i need reading glasses that's all right shout out to costco great now we are going to go online and actually before i do that got another announcement to make here [Music] we got our silver play button in the mail for our second channel reality renovation all right and listen if you're a fan of this reality renovation channel then give this video a thumbs up why not and if you haven't subscribed to this yet you need to be because we're making major changes we're going to go to once a week video we're going to do um more of a blog style about our journey okay and so when we're finished the next season that's gonna happen make sure you be a part of this because this content is awesome and my wife is in those videos and you're gonna love her she's amazing all right now let's put that away we'll put a link down to reality renovation in the video description down below so make sure you take a minute and just go sign up to that channel this channel we do how to build stuff on that one we do why and all of the trouble that we run into it's a lot more fun if that's the kind of content you're looking for now now listen the reason we're doing this and we're using modular closets is on the last closet video we did we actually built our own closet system and we can have the link for that video in the description as well and it was at my daughter christina's place and not everybody is going to be in the market to build their own cabinets from scratch so this is for people who are looking for ready to assemble furniture that's what they ship you and the best part about this company is the website was freaking amazing you can just go down here to design your closet all right so we got two options here you can design it or they can design it all right and here's just the picture this is the rough design and that's what the closet finish looks like this is why we're going this way because it's an amazing way to get all of your stuff in drawers and behind doors if you want to without having to buy furniture so if you consider the idea especially in old farmhouses you can use that space under the slope right and fill it all up with closets like this and you don't have to buy any furniture now we went and designed our own because we're nuts all right so let's get started choose a closet type a walk-in a reach in or custom oh that's neat look at this so mine is more of a reach in and my back wall now here's the only thing because i have a sloped ceiling i'm going to call my back wall eight feet and that works left wall they're suggesting at least two inches two feet which is 24. i like to go 26 but we don't have to tell them i'm making more space i'm gonna do double swing doors and my length let's go with 8 feet the back wall is 10 feet that's the back wall that's the closet height now that makes sense so 10 feet 10 feet 8 feet for door boom customized shape now from here we get to pick um floor color wall color trim color all these things you can really go to detail my goodness i'm going to put in a double door here and i'm gonna make that a four foot door and a double door here okay so when you hit create closet they already build one for you and then you can just make some adjustments all right so let's get started no let's get rid of that and let's take a look at what they got for an option so i like the idea now we've got options for shoe shelves medium hanging we can adjust the priority for hanging from low to high drawers maybe less drawers let's create it again wow i got lots of room for shoes now i think we're going to go low on the shoes because this is for me uh [Music] lower on the drawers higher on the hanging that's not bad now these shelves are all adjustable i'm going to go even higher on the hanging there we go now we're talking so i got a few drawers maybe go a little more drawer space because you know i got to keep everything hidden okay i like this this is really easy to use what do you think max it's cool so they're just recreating the different dimensions for me bam now i've got a closet and it even has the price right there on the screen look at this let's change this to minimum drawers no drawers recreate the closet my price changes accordingly wasn't that awesome no i can edit components all right yeah let's do this try it i don't know we'll see what happens i like to fool around oh look at a belt rack look at this i'm gonna put a belt rack up here okay i got a belt rack there now it says it's in the wrong spot okay boy you can spend a lot of time doing this got a valet rod cool my god now look at this if any if you're ever in doubt as to what's going on you just hit the request design help put in your information nope i don't live in alabama imagine that and these folks will jump in and help finish your design for you right you can even get a consultation over the phone or over the email that's amazing let's cancel this for now and we're gonna just say that that's my product and i'm gonna add the shopping cart there we go no let's just go to the cart let's check out i'm a simple guy i can imagine everything else okay here we go so it breaks it down into the different tower components at this point you get an idea of how much you're spending on each unit and you can go back and change things options to pay only ships united states sorry guys if you live in canada or your eu for this one but they are limiting their their shipping to the united states and that's fine okay i know i'm in canada and i'm going to be able to make arrangements with them i think the point is that for 850 bucks with free shipping anywhere in the united states this is a great option if you want to get a custom closet i mean that is 10 feet of wall space floor to ceiling custom closets you can keep it simple for now and then down the road you can even go back to the company later add drawer packs and other features and benefits it's so easy to install so let's leave this we'll go upstairs and we'll show you how this product installs and let's get building our closets this is one of these moments where you get to see me make a mistake this is what i ordered beautiful lots of cabinets at all hanging in a traditional height closet you have a second bar so you got separates and then full length gowns perfect lots of storage drawers all this kind of business right no need for additional furniture in your room but what i have is an 1880 farmhouse not a normal closet so i'm going to go through a couple of things we ran into and then we think we have a solution to this problem but let's just deal with this first of all i had to build out a closet wall and i had restrictions because i have a door going into the room and i can't move that any further to the right because it's near the top of the stairs and so i've got a code issue there besides if i build it out on this side over here or start getting closer to the window so i'm dealing with my original slope ceiling here okay when these cabinets came we then put them together it's a cam lock system like a lot of furniture that's ready to assemble and we realized at that point that we couldn't get this up to the 80 inches we wanted to we had the height in the closet but we would have to custom cut and originally i was thinking i just custom cut put it all back together again but then reality strikes the custom cutting in this situation is still going to be almost impossible because the house itself has a curve to it so there's no way for me to actually build all these closets and step them down and custom cut them no matter what i do here it's going to look like junk so instead of going with that elaborate system i'm going to put in three towers and i'm just going to put in regular good old-fashioned closet rods and i'm not going to get the performance out of this that i wanted but it is going to give me a little bit more space so if somebody wants to use a dresser or something there's room for that here and that might even be a benefit in the long run so what we're going to do is instead of having one of these in between each set of opening doors we're gonna put two of them together in the middle okay and then we'll have this one scootched over here a little bit we're gonna have room for a rod in between that and a rod on the other side and then a huge rod down on the end yeah such as my life this way we are pretty level we're only out about a quarter to half an inch over the four feet and we can make that work if we're using a rod to connect the ends and then for the rest of the oddity over here just a huge solid rod is going to just it's going to save my baking so consider this before you go and order something like this make sure you've got the depth make sure you got the height we ordered this and assumed we were going to customize the closet to fit the cabinet but have now come to realize that that's going to be an impossibility [Applause] i missed out on the how out of level this floor is in my calculations and it's made this system impossible so i they have components other boxes that go half size for each space here it's just not going to work out so cheers to modular closets great design great product but bad organization this on me ouch yeah that'll work all right so we're going to need to incorporate the use of a lot of shims yeah it's a little problem [Applause] consider yourself a closet so before we go any further i'm going to take the 8 inch and an eighth square user for particleboard and we're going to laminate these two pieces together make them one so i can level them off at the same time [Music] when the screw gets to the second piece of laminated material and the threads grab and it pulls them apart and so the way you deal with that is you have to back it off and go again and usually two or three times so once you've completely sunk on the head back it one more time drive it clean through until it's flush again and you should be nice and tight right right then so now we are going to use our shims and try to find our happy level place okay so there's two things i've got to do i've got to level it this way obviously and we're out great and i want to level it this way so in order to do that i've got to pull the cabinet off the wall a little bit there we go so at least that's going to work shoot that's pulling it out of square i need more height off the back here [Music] all right let's check this oh perfect loving it so we got to work in this way and that way good good good good all right so what we're going to do is obviously i've got shims coming from different directions what we want to do is we want to be able to cut the shims so they're not visible so i'm just going to mark where that is okay i'm gonna hold them together that same contact here is still making contact here and here and here it's the nature of the shim if i cut back about a half an inch and then i installed the shim half an inch deeper standing there looking at the closet you're not going to see the ship [Music] i'm going to put it from the front and to the middle of the gable okay [Music] woohoo [Music] so now the only thing left to do the only thing we have a few things left to do but we have to now i have to mount from here into my back wall so for that i'm going to need a stud finder and probably some four inch screws well we kind of got them installed i need to get screws so what i'm doing is i'm putting that on a list because i don't believe in going to the store more than once a day call me old-fashioned but if i have to go to the store more than once a day all that is just wasted time i'd rather find something else to do on my site and then deal with this again tomorrow so what we're going to do is we're going to move on we're going to paint some door trims we're going to paint some doors we're going to hang some doors for in this video we're going to just hang the doors we've got a different hardware for you we've got rollerball attachments for up here we've got to get those installed we've got some dummy handles to put on ah so there's lots to do let's just keep moving forward and then through the magic of making videos after i've got these doors installed we'll carry on with the installation but i'm actually filming that part tomorrow that makes any sense but same video don't stay with us it'll be right back now my system of course is remove all the hardware before you paint okay and what we do we actually install the top hinge to the door and the other two to the frame so then i bring the door over with the hinge attached and i'll screw it in place and then it automatically sets itself for the other two hinges it's really difficult sticking three hinge doors together even when they're machined in the shop because of all the nuances of hardware and everything else this is just an easier way to do it one of the advantages of working with a local custom mill shop for your doors and trim the place i go to is classical moldings they actually cut the doors to size they created the doors and the jams they mortise it all for you all you got to do is stick it together on site they even pre-drilled the holes for my roller balls and supplied me with all my hardware amazing because if you try just going to the local box store you'd be surprised a lot of times the hardware only comes in chrome or brass and as you see i'm kind of digging the black look this time so here's the roller ball it just drops in and you can see there's a height of the ball the ball's on a spring so if you have too much compression you simply you can tighten it down with a wide screwdriver or a 5-1 or i'm using a doll chisel here we go make sure you don't put the compression on the width side of the door you can blow out the top go on the wide side it's still sitting way too proud not happy about that there we go i guess that's as good as we're gonna get you will notice that the plate has bumps on it so if i just screw it it's gonna hang really low so what we want to do this is why you paint first you close the door and let the roller ball hopefully mark the trim ta-da now we know where the center line is so here's my center line where the roller ball hit and then i don't want to be right against the trim or the doors won't close so i'll leave a little bit of gap here all right and i'm just going to mark my edges for reference and my two holes for reference so now i know i need to take out a little bit here okay i'm gonna just cheat i'm gonna go with drilling a bit of a hole side-by-side holes okay [Music] and here as well [Music] that looks like it'll work really nice here we go now we've got an option if you want to do really nice work you can use that chisel line there okay we can actually chisel and recess the wood right and we just uh want to take a little bit of material out of the way here when you're doing this kind of work it's not about how pretty the hole is it's about how pretty the edge is and does it function right when you're done okay here we are now oh yeah oh yeah all right let's see if we know what we're doing boom all right now we gotta do with this one that one went in a lot easier here we go here's a here's our million all right it is a piece of flat stock with a rounded edge and i'm going to attach it to my door with a little bit of adhesive and what it does is it gives me the ability to close the door nice and tight and this is important because we're going to be putting in our motion sensor lights we're going to put in all of our millions we're going to put the rest of the doors in and check out this for a handle something a little bit crazy this is just a dummy handle we're gonna install these in all the closet doors as well and of course i'm gonna have to draw a laser line to put all those handles on the same line and be perfect we'll do that too wow that'll be the rest of my day and of course in a few seconds we'll come back to rebuilding the inside of that closet because at the end of today i'm going to the store to go shopping and then i'm coming back so that we can film the rest of this next time tomorrow put in the same video see you soon all right well while max was away i was working on the closets and i got the exteriors all finished and the roller ball's all done so i started putting on the hardware and i wanted to just share with you my system for doing this because we got doors on both sides of the room right the way you want to do this is definitely with a laser level i'll show you mine this is actually the fire core model this one has a little top thing so it actually fires a line on all four sides of the room so this gives me the ability to line up all of these everywhere in the room so if you're sitting down or you're just picky when you go to buy a house and you want to have a good look you're going to see it it's perfect every time we also decided to go with the handle in a vertical position it's a little non-traditional but you can see how easy this is you just put it on that line and then drive a screw in it way too easy [Music] right because there's no action it's just it's just a pull so this is nice so it's easier than we just kind of figured that would work out well the last thing to do with the doors is i got to put on the mullion we'll do that in just a minute we also got to put in the closet rods i think it's going to look amazing so we'll finish with all the little details we'll go through the step by step on how to cut and install the closet rods and how to cut and install the mulian because this is tricky you use a different tool and a different adhesive to get this done and i'll show you a few tips and tricks that you can have a successful french door operation to love a good four inch cabinet screw well now that the cabinets are installed it's time to install our rods and i picked up this black one and a quarter inch steel um over at the local hardware store so you can buy it too and you can cut it down to size hacksaw you can use your chops how to cut this stuff but just grab an old blade okay and then put it on backwards because this is steel not aluminum so it's gonna it's gonna chew up a blade all right and what we're doing is we're just setting this up at 12 and a half inches off the back wall i have a 25 inch interior dimension right so i'll show you this when i built this i added wood in behind here right where i wanted it on a horizontal if you're not sure you can use one of these there's a stud finder you place it on the wall you push the button and then you just slide until you find wood and it'll go red there's no horizon vertical here so here we go there we go that's where i want it boom so it's just a matter of making a couple of marks so i need 12 and a half inch to the center there we are now i want to put these spots on my laser level line all right because i don't have three hands i'm just gonna mark the drywall like that now i can grab a screw and set this up the secret here is not tighten it up too much all right you can find that sweet spot before you draw the other screw in okay good all right so you have a clean side and a cut side stick the cut side in the hole because if even if it's really rough cut that'll hide it set the bar in place okay and now we're going to just check the laser line on here looks like it's a little bit high because i only used one screw on the first here we go i'll make an adjustment and then set it perfect every time all right now it's time to put on the mullion and this is just a simple piece of flat stock it's rounded on both sides and i cut it to be the size of the door the idea is to install this so that it's on one door and it covers the gap okay and that's how it'll function now when i drop it down i don't have a whole lot of room to work with maybe almost half an inch all right so taking my pl premium and i've cut a bit of a groove into the side here what i'm doing is i'm using that groove to set my edge of the the pl premium so i can run it down the side of the door there's no way you can do it clean like this freehand okay so take my advice and cut that groove in the side of your caulking tube over time all the functionality of that door is going to put a lot of wear and tear on whatever nails you use so got to have the construction adhesive in this case next thing i'm going to show you here this is a 23 gauge finish nailer these nails are super tiny they're inch and a quarter they're so thin they have arrows on it so you know which way to put down in the gun this is perfect for this scenario because you don't need a lot of nail and you don't have a lot of material to work with what i'm going to suggest is you just set it on the floor right where you want it and see if there's any identifying marks on the floor that will help you line it up this piece of flooring actually has a groove right where i want that trim to go so that's going to make this a lot easier and then lift it up into place until i like the look there we go go down here now in this case these nails the only the only purpose of these nails is to hold the wood and compress that adhesive so when the adhesive is finished drying it becomes one piece of wood you're not using the nails here and relying on that to keep everything in place now when that's all dry which is gonna be about six or eight hours so next day basically right we'll come back with the brush and we'll paint this one more time and try to clean it all up these nail holes are so small you could actually use dap caulking to fill them i'm not in a hurry so i'm going to use the drydex and then we'll just give it a quick buff and one more coat tomorrow so we've got our drawer here is really simple just four sides solid wood they screw together really good quality drawers here and we got the drawer hardware now this represents the the face of the drawer okay so when i take this apart i'm going to pull the arm pull this set that up and then i know that this is going over here okay this makes it a lot easier wow all right and then there so first thing we'll do is attach the face with the wood screws they come pre-drilled way too easy and then we'll just look for another there's a hole there good that's done all right same for the other side okay now we should just take this measurement real quick the middle of this is a little bit more than three inches to the bottom of the drawer okay so that means i need to install it at the third hole so that actually clears the shelf so i'm going to start with the front of the back there is a hole here and i'm starting here because i know i can't mess up my location here's the third hole all right now unfortunately nothing else here lines up wow that is kind of scary i don't know if these guys even know this if i get these angles different there's no way to install that drawer nice right so now this has got to be perfect and i've got to use wood screws okay so here's how you solve it you've got to get a short screw now i've picked up these um [Music] in the soffit aisle right where you get your your you can buy soffit and j trims and stuff like that all the aluminum and they sell these self drilling metal screws and it's going to work fine for particle board because all of the weight is downward i'm going to use two i'm also going to grab my laser level and set it up right here and draw a nice laser line so that the line is connecting on all four sides when you run into problems like this and you will because the world is funny that way have a laser level problem solved there we go let's see what we got i'm not going to adjust it i'm just going to leave the same kind of spacing all the way around i think that'll be easier to accomplish now the back of this hardware there's four holes well three for sure so i'm going to throw in one try to get this it's difficult to do this over the laser at the same time as with the camera okay let's see maybe maybe that'll work what i'll do is i'll just get the first screw in and then we're going to try the drawer operation empty and see how that works here goes everything okay now the only trick here is you got to line these both up at the same side we'll do this side first i'm going to line up the gaps there we've got it clicked okay yeah i'm pleased with that yay now i got 12 of these to install we'll do that off camera we're not going to waste your time but when we come back we're going to be able to show you the final project just when you thought you were finished we're also going to cover installing the hardware okay so let's go through this i'm going to do this make it easy for you and these three holes are pre-drilled for standard handles the standard handlebar or just the single i like to go with a single because every time you drill through the face of a cabinet you're risking splitting or doing excessive damage and then you're destroying your cabinet so what i'd like to do is take a small drill something smaller than the hole because the hole represents the size you need for your screws and i'll take this and i'll drill through right through the face and okay even a small hole has extra damage right now i can swap it out for a drill that's just a little bit bigger and drill through from this side now that i know exactly where the hole is and look how nice and clean you get you can do a template you can drop a laser line you can measure down you can put tape on it but if you've already got cabinets with holes and you want to use those holes as your guide use a pilot drill from the back side then you can make the hole in the front okay now most hardware comes in the kit with short screws and they're no good in an area like this a lot of cabinets it's just the drawer and that's it and so a short screw that comes with the car the hardware works fine but when you're laminating a face onto a drawer you got to get longer screws so let's take a look at our options here you can go out and buy longer screws all right now the package of the hardware usually will have the information on it the standards in the industry are 8 30 seconds which just deals with the thread size or it's the metric sizes m2 and they don't work together so you can't put the wrong screw with a different kind of thread hardware all right remember that because if you mix it up and you try to attach it you're going to really strip the hardware and then you're screwed right you're screwed that's funny okay the other option is you can go out and you can buy these in the screw aisle the they have those bins right with all the little fittings and stuff so you can buy breakaway cabinet screws like this what you do is you simply put it through the hole all right and identify the last notch that can be cut off all right so i can cut the top two sections out now generally cabinet screws are really soft metal so you can just take your electrical side pliers like this line that sucker up give it a squeeze perfect every time or you can take your 832s and your electrical pliers and let's say you bought two inch and are too long because remember there's only so much room in the handle right and if it's not tightening up you can take it out and on your electrical pliers you're gonna have a couple of slots out here okay a 6 32 8 32 here we go and you just thread it right through okay and this is where it gets really interesting because you're threading it through the holes on each part of the plier and so then when you squeeze you're going to shear it right in the middle so if you only got to take off a little bit you could just go like this if you have to take off a lot you go all the way down okay to how much screw you have plus the thickness of this side of the plier and watch this oh hang on i'll go like this way that wasn't even a lot of force right there's one hand whenever you cut something like that you're creating a marred up messed up end so when you get your drill and you put it on reverse you're actually rethreading the end of the screw as it comes out now this will go in the hardware with no problem there we go okay you also have the options inside a cabinet i'll pull this out again demonstrate this that same spot in the hardware store they have cabinet washers you can actually buy them and they're stackable so you can put two or six or as many as you need on the back side of the cabinet and the screw head sits inside of that and what it does is it gets an extra eighth of an inch okay so if the screw is too long you can do that and it solves your problem in my case my screws were not too long so i got just i managed to buy the right size which is a miracle okay there we go now that of course is a lot easier to do when the drawer is installed but it's easier for you to see what i'm doing here we go right so in typical jeff fashion i was just mowing ahead and not looking at the design and i got confused with this idea of installing a drawer above the mid mark now these cabinets came pre-drilled on the side for these handrails but all of those pre-drilling locations are below the midpoint so i like an idiot started making it too high and had to reinvent the wheel when in fact it was designed to be installed with very little complication i learned that as soon as i started putting them a little lower i was like oh there is a hole wow um sometimes you know we just don't read the instructions and this is what happens to us all right anyway so this is really simple now these rails have got pre-drilled locations so you can set them up and all the drawers are perfectly spaced makes your life really easy ah i am a big fan however of drawers that are high enough off the ground that stupid little people can't get in there and get really important things or dangerous things that's why i like that the drawers that are this high up but anyway enough about that so cheers to the cabinet company they did a great job of manufacturing this product and making it diy installation friendly hmm right perfect all right well just to recap guys modular closets is the company that we use in hindsight i probably should have taken advantage of their design services because of the complexity dealing with the slope ceiling which ultimately caused me to modify my installation from the design that i built online however the process was simple the design tool was awesome the product is great i can't recommend it enough so we'll put a link in the video description if you want to go and check these guys out and and put them to work for your next project okay really quality stuff super pleased especially the little details with the closet drawers like these are perfectly spaced i didn't have to spend all day long tweaking and twisting and turning just went together like really really quick and simple wow now that's a transformation right listen this took a little bit of work obviously but when you break it down step by step you realize that nothing we did in this room was overly complicated or too much for any regular diy to master and we use basic tools so be empowered the project costs about a thousand dollars but we went from 1880 to a modern sexy living space right with a ton of storage there's just no way that you can talk about return on investment in the house and not talk about creating a master ensuite this is the kind of project that you should be doing it's basic it's simple it's not a lot of mechanical involved there's not any structure involved just really remodeling with an attitude this is so this is big time right listen if you enjoy being a marathon viewer and you like really long project videos then consider watching right over here don't forget to subscribe to the channel because we're doing the bathroom next baby

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 130,493

Keywords: homerenovision, renovision, jeff thorman, homerenovisiondiy, bedroom renovation, custom closet, modular closet, tile accent wall, tile feature wall, floating hardwood floor, underlayment, how to hang doors, how to install door handles, how to install prefab cabinets, how to wrap a beam, how to paint like a professional, painting tips for beginners, bedroom design ideas, bedroom renovation ideas, diy bedroom remodel on a budget, do it yourself

Id: tNik62j8f0s

Length: 209min 42sec (12582 seconds)

Published: Sat Dec 04 2021