Dirt Bike Fork Rebuild Made Easy!

what up everyone coming at you today with some fork assembly let's jump right into it as you can tell I've got the forest completely disassembled and here are the essentials needed to rebuild them pivot works came through with the bushings and seals and Maxima hooked it up with the oil so Big Bang key to those guys so of course the assembly process is gonna be the same for both the right and the left fork I'm just gonna bring you through the assembly on one fork here and before we get started I'm gonna make sure I've got all the bushings and seals I'll need for this rebuild so I'm gonna open this thing up alright definitely looks like everything is here got an even number of bushings the seals for each style it's amazing how many pieces pivot works provides you with a couple of things to check before reassembling the forks on the lower fork tube here it's common to have nicks or scars and those in turn will cause the seals the leak so I'll run my finger down the fork tube and if anything hangs up it's got to be buffed out or fixed somehow so this fork tube feels pretty good it is ready to go now we're gonna check out the piston rod on the damper it should slide in and out of the damper freely if there's any sort of hang-up that's something you got to check into and lastly the adjuster should click through the positions you'll be able to hear it click as you're turning the adjuster now that I've got everything inspected I'm gonna pull the bushings and seals off the lower four tube you just simply expand the bushing and you can slide it off the tube and as I'm pulling these parts off I'm gonna set them in the order they came off of the seal I'm pulling off right now is the actual oil seal and the one further down is the dust seal just gonna wipe things down and get it ready for some new parts here here I'm gonna match up the new parts with the old ones got oil seal here is the dust seal looks like the correct one all right we've got two bushings an oil seal and a dust seal and as far as the clip and washer they don't provide those since those really are not wear items here is the order that everything is going to be installed in and as you're sliding the seals on you're definitely going to want to use a fork bullet or like a little sleeve that goes over the end as you're sliding the seals on this will protect the seals from being cut by the grooves in the fork tube here and if you don't have one of these you can always wrap tape around the top of the tube here it's mainly these two grooves right here that are gonna cut up the seals we're gonna pop that on and apply some oil here so that way everything slides on a bit easier gonna bust out the maximum oil and fill up the cap that way we can dab the parts in it I'm just gonna dab my finger here in the oil give things a nice little coat so if the dust seal goes with a spring side facing down now we've got the clip and then the oil seal this is definitely the most important seal of the whole fork so you want to make sure it goes on correctly and take your time putting it on on this one the spring side is going to be facing up we've got the spring side right here just gonna slide it on like so good idea that apply some oil to the inside of the seal as well now with the Steel's and the snap ring on I can slide off the bullet and pop on the washer and the two bushings and as far as these bushings go through the same either way so it doesn't matter which way they go on I'm just going to expand the bushing and pop it into place with everything assembled here I'm gonna move on to the damper the damper has one bushing down here that can be replaced this bushing seems like it's a bit more difficult to remove so I'm going to use a flat blade screwdriver to expand it and hopefully pop it off the damper here kind of destroyed that one taking it off but that was really the only option make sure this new one matches up looks like it's the right one and going on should be quite a bit easier all right next up there's a little seal up on top of the damper here that we can replace just got a little pick that we can get underneath the seal and pull it down and this should be the new seal right here and that is it for the damper I'm going to move on to the outer fork tube so there's a little wear ring here on the end of the tube that pivot works gave me a replacement for just gonna go ahead and pop that off and replace it looks like there's some dirt underneath the the clip here good opportunity to clean that up this one is pretty straightforward let's pop it right into place looks like this assembly has three over dings on it one here on the bottom one halfway up and one at the top unfortunately this one's got two bushings on it so hopefully they come off easy not too difficult definitely easier than the last one so there were two bushings and three o-rings on this set I'm gonna go ahead and find the replacement ones for that looks like we've got the correct bushings here and these should be the seals so I'm gonna go ahead and install the bushings first just like the other bushings of seals I'm gonna boil everything up and the bushings can go on either way they are not directional well guys that is it for replacing all the bushings and seals time to put this fork together now the lower fork tube and the upper fork tube are going to be installed onto each other before we slide them into place I'm gonna make sure everything has a good layer of oil on it now I'm just gonna simply slide the two pieces together and then once you get to the oil seal that will need to be pressed in so for right now I'm just gonna start pressing it in by hand so there's fork seal drivers out there that allow you to push the seal into place but what I've got here is a piece of PVC pipe obviously cut open and this is what I've been using for years to press in fork seals once you have the oil seal pressed in enough you'll be able to see a little groove where the ring snaps into so right now we are gonna pop this ring into position as soon as you get that ring into place you'll hear a pop and it'll sit inside that groove and then the dust seal can be slid down into its position time to do some work on the dampening rod all right what I'm gonna do here is extend the dampen your uh piston all the way down and add some oil in through the top for this bike the recommended amount is six point six ounces so I've got a mixing Cup here and it's got a lence measurements on the side here I'm just gonna simply pour this into the damper and then I'll need to bleed the air out of the system alright to bleed it I'm gonna pump the piston slowly several times and this should get all the air out of it next up I'm gonna set the oil height within the damper so it needs to be 42 to 47 millimeters above this mark and how I'm gonna check that is grabbing a piece of cardboard and sliding it down to right here and however much the oil comes up on that piece of cardboard I'll base the oil height off of that and adjust it up or down alright I've got my strip of cardboard here I'm just gonna slide it down in the damper until it stops and by the way this is with the piston rod extend it all the way down so right there is where it stopped its gonna pull it up and measure that so we're looking at a little over 42 millimeters right now I'm just gonna add a touch of oil that way it's well within that recommended range now it's on to installing the fork cap into the damper I'm just gonna apply some oil to the seals here and the bushings as well all right now with the piston all the way extend it out I'm gonna slide in the fork cap definitely gonna take a little bit of wiggling to get it into place the recommended torque spec on the for cap is 22 foot-pounds for this bike I don't have a way of torquing it so I am just gonna have to get it close enough by hand what I've got to do now is I'm gonna compress the damper piston about four inches several times and this will bleed the damper assembly once that is done I'm gonna turn the compression adjuster counterclockwise to the softest position so now there's gonna be a little extra oil left in this upper chamber that'll need a drain out out of this hole and as I've got the damper upside down here I'm pumping the piston rod get all that extra oil out just giving this thing a wipe down and then I'm gonna inspect the piston one more time all right a few things to check for on the damper first of all when you compress the piston it should return on its own to the full length looks good and also once the piston is compressed there shouldn't be any oil on the shaft here and if there's any oil on the shaft that is gonna need some attention and the last thing the lock nut on the bottom of the damper will have to be spun up to the top of the threads here all right I've got the damper assembly all finished up it is time to slide it into the fork tube it's always nice to put the fork in a vise for this step and this is where a set of soft jaws on a bus will be handy I'm too cheap for that so I'm just using a couple blocks of wood here definitely don't want to forget to install the fork spring that would not be good with that in place I grab the damper here and slide it all the way through at this point I'll need to compress the fork spring putting pressure on the damper from the top and this will push the dampener rod out of the bottom of the fork here once I have the rod pushed out of the bottom of the fork I'm gonna slide a wrench underneath the rod and that will hold it into place so there are companies that do make a tool for holding the rod out of the bottom of the fork or you can make your own but I've always found that wrench works just fine too now I've got the adjustment rod to slide into place I'm gonna turn it and tell it seats all the way there we go and now for the adjuster just gonna line up the flat part right here with the rod all right there it is now I'm just gonna spin it onto the threads here the torque spec on this particular bike is 16 foot pounds for the adjuster nut just going to compress the fork spring again by pushing on the damper carefully slide the wrench out and then slowly let the damper into the fork here try not to damage the threads at all yeah next up is going to be tightening down the nut to 51 foot-pounds the last couple of things to do here are to add oil and tighten down the fort cap once again I'll be using the mixing cup to measure out the oil and pour it into the fork for the CR 250 each fork takes 13.7 ounces of oil so I'm pulling the upper fork tube down so I have room to pour in the oil nothing too complicated here just add in the oil to the fork the last step in the process is to slide the fork tube up and tighten down the fork cap it's a good idea to have some oil here on the o-ring almost make assembly go a little bit smoother to help with tightening down the fork cap I'm going to slide the bottom triple on to the forks and get it tightened down I know if I don't tighten down the fork cap right now I'll probably forget and put this bike together in the fork will fall apart on me just got my fork cap wrench here and gonna cinch down the fork cap the recommended torque is 25 foot-pounds so not really too tight already guys that is gonna do it for the left fork leg enjoy the time lapse as I put together the right fork I am pretty stoked for extra all done and everything went together very smoothly these things are ready to go gotta give a big THANK YOU to pivot works and Maxima for helping out with this build go show them some love by clicking over to their websites using the links down in the description and doing some shopping with them I'll also link some of the special tools I used throughout the video such as the steel bullet and the four cap wrench down there as well always appreciate you guys watching the video and I will catch up with you all in a few days take care everyone

Channel: Cameron Niemela

Views: 341,178

Rating: 4.9257154 out of 5

Keywords: Dirt Bike Fork Rebuild Made Easy, Dirt Bike Fork, Dirt Bike Forks, Fork Rebuild, Dirt Bike Fork Rebuild, Fork Seals, Fork Oil, Motorcycle Forks, Honda, CR250, Honda CR250, Dirt Bike, Motorcycle, 2 Stroke, Two Stroke, Dirt Bike Build, Fixing Dirt Bike, Fixing Motorcycle, Two Stroke Build, Broken Dirt Bike, CR250 Build, CR250 Two Stroke, Cameron Niemela, Niemela, MX, Motocross, 250 2 Stroke, Project Bike, CR250 Project, Fixing CR250, 2003 CR250, How To, CR250 Rebuild, Rebuild

Id: eMObahy23-I

Length: 20min 59sec (1259 seconds)

Published: Tue Feb 20 2018