Did I just improve VASHTORR? You might be surprised. The painting story of Vashtorr the Arkifane.

have you ever seen a model realize it would be a fantastic idea for a build but then you got halfway through and you're questioning your decisions yeah this happened to me during this so you tell me what you think [Music] thank you [Music] to start we're going to be building and defining the Torso so I'll cut out vashtor's torso piece and I'll also cut out the war dogs chess piece too the next part is then to build the war dogs torso as this is going to be the foundation for the torsos built now the first thing I'll notice is the size of the war dogs torso in comparison to vastral's original torso and we're going to need to address this we will need to change the torso's length and width to do this we'll cut a line down the center of the Torso and then cut a slightly angle to fold the back half up into the front portion of the Torso now this is going to require a lot of cutting so let's get started so we'll perform the first cut down the side of the Torso next we'll perform the second cut on the side of the Torso it should look like we are cutting out a triangle wedge from this torso with the wedge now cut we can now look to see how these two pieces will fit together we'll want to try and keep the top bars lining up as we are going to be removing the bottom parts now we will start working on cutting these pieces in half so using the saw again we'll cut the two pieces in two with all the pieces now cut we will now need to start working on sanding the pieces down and then fitting everything together there will be a lot of material being removed so for this part I did use a power sander with the pieces now sanded down we can start gluing everything back together and to do this I'll use some sprue glue to reinforce any gaps and fuse the pieces together once the two sides are now fixed we can start to glue the last two pieces together and for this part I did use some cut down wood to help lining up the two sides and to help with the gluing process this part was really fiddly and it did require some patience but the wood rods helped a lot with the new torso now cut and glued we can see that the profile of the war dogs torso now matches closer to the original vashtor's torso next we will grind out the power core once that's done I'll be putting in a new power core that we printed now we can start looking at how we can mesh vashtor into this war dog's torso the next cut we will do is remove the front armor panels from the war dogs torso as we are going to connect vashtor's fleshy chest here next we'll cut out the upper back neck and chest out of vashtor's torso and then glue them all together now this part will require a lot of back and forth between cutting the war dog and Vash tour so take the time to go through and slowly remove the material once we have a good rough fit we'll then mix up a batch of green stuff and then build a foundation to connect Vassar to it once the pieces are fitted we will then mush the green stuff in to get a solid fixing between the two pieces then we will take smaller pieces of green stuff and fill any gaps and voids around the edges of the Torso now before we can look at attaching the front torso part I need to figure out how the lower torso is going to connect and where it should sit on the model with the pose now in mind I'll now start to cut the lower portion of the Torso and matching the angle of the torso's armor with the lower portion now cut we still need to alter the war dogs torso to accept the new cut so using the rotary tool I'll remove any parts which conflicts with the lower torso's connection I'll then use green stuff to fill in the void of the lower torso and begin to fix the lower part to the war dog and then I'll go back through with some more green stuff and close any of the gaps around the lower torso now dealing with the lower torso it was incredibly fiddly mostly because there wasn't much area for the plastic to bind to so I was relying mostly on the green stuff to hold the right posture but in the end we did get there with the lower torso Now set and fixed we can now see how this part will fit with this build firstly I'll cut the front chest piece into two pieces one to match the lower torso's abdominal area and the second to complete the upper chest with the chest now fitted I'll go back through with more green stuff and start to sculpt in the connecting points of the flesh into the metal frame now with the majority of the Torso done I'll move on to creating the armor paneling for the top parts and to do this I'll be using the neck part from a mall of fiend I'll use a rotary tool and I'll cut out the profile of the armor panel and I'll start to remove any of the material so the piece can fit together better the next part is adding some extra arms to the chest so taking some green stuff I'll sculpt in some more flesh and then pilot a hole as for these extra arms I'll be using them from the blight drone set here is how the Torso is starting to look we can now start to see how this model is going to look like we still have a long way to go but thankfully the hardest part is now done the next part is to start dealing with the rear side of the Torso and I'll use a rotary tool to remove parts of the back next a chunk of green stuff will be added into this void and then sculpted into two rough bulges ready to accept the exhausts some jokes are best not told next I'll create some pilot holes ready to push in the vents once the vents are now done I'll quickly go through and glue the head onto the neck [Music] thanks to all the cutting that we've done the Torso is missing a bit of detail to do this I'll use guitar wire and create some new cabling and wiring along the Torso these are added in a random ways and amounts just to add some Flair to the Torso and variation the next part is adding the legs and they are simply made and then glued onto the original torso now as for the feet these were angled downwards as if Ash door is floating as I have an idea to make vashtor more imposing as to making vashtor float I'll be using some plastic card and two pieces of copper wire to make the basis I'll then start creating more connection holes and start to feed some guitar wire and connecting the two pieces between the two pieces of plastic card once we are happy I'll cut down the extending wires and then sand everything flat next I'll attach the wings to the back area of the Torso and to do this I'll be using green stuff to create a connection between the armor torso and the wing arms once they are fitted I'll then leave the wings on and let the green stuff cure the next part is building the arms and for this we aren't going to be doing anything crazy so the left arm is just made normally as for the right arm the forearm is cut at the elbow and the hand is then cut with the hobby saw next I'll be using some brass rods and creating two metal rods for the new arm once they are glued in I'll then be using more rods to create more texture and size variations on the metal rods as for the hand another piece of brass is used for the wrist and then it's back filled with green stuff as a Connecting Point now as with the weapon I wasn't impressed enough with the mace so we printed a new mace so to get the pieces to fit together we'll be using again some brass pieces and creating a connection from the handle to the mace next I'll drill some holes and add some more brass to the side faces this is to make it look a bit more intimidating and then finally I'll attach the original vents to the side of the mouse with the arms now connected and glued onto the Torso it did seem as if the arms were bare so using more parts from the molar fiend I'll use the shoulder pieces and fix them above the arm now with the model almost done it did look like there could be some more additional pieces here so to start filling in some of these areas I printed off some gears and started adding these to the model the first area is the fleshy part with the vents so using a rotary tool I'll grind out the center and then glue in a gear protruding out of the flesh next I'll drill some more holes and then feed through brass rods on the rear lastly I'll cut and add some cut gears to the bottom area where the base will be attached to the model now with a lot of cutting sanding and green stuff here is how the model is starting to look so without any more delay let's get this model primed and let's get into the painting to start the first color we'll be putting down is mahogany from Pro recruit this color is used to base every piece of this model next we'll be painting just the skin first and for the first color we're going to be using tan flesh and purple from proper Krill in a two to one ratio two parts tan flesh one part purple with this color we are aiming to color the majority of the skin area whilst we want to keep the underside still showing some original mahogany so start to apply the color from the top and feather the color down into the Shadows this color is using ivory from pro-acrill and this is reserved for the high areas facing the light and finally bold titanium white is used for the highest areas to really exaggerate the lighting foreign s now down the skin is based and ready for some detail next we'll be using permanent alizarin Crimson oils and this is thinned heavily with this mixture we are aiming to backfill all of the grooves and crevices of the skin we want to avoid getting this coloring onto the wider flatter areas so take the time to get in the coloring into the right place now I wouldn't worry about trying to get a heavy deposit of color even if you add a small amount here you can always just wait for the oils to evaporate and then we can go back and add a bit more color on top this is how the first coloring pass looks next we're going to be using purple and this is applied into the deepest spots of the Crimson we've just put down previously with this color it's okay for the color to bleed past the crimson just make sure that the wider areas are still showing the base paints that we did if you do end up putting some color onto the white areas you can simply use a cotton bud and clean the area with some white Spirit just be careful not to push too hard to damage the paint next we'll be using light rust tones and start to apply this into the areas where the purple and red mixed into the White this will add the bruising effect on the skin and give it even more variation in its coloring with that now done here's how the skin is starting to look like nice and easy so it's time to give the model A varnish coat and then it's time to move on to the next painstaking step applying the liquid mask over the model to protect the skin that we've just put down so give the entire of the skin a good coating of liquid mask with the model now protected the first color be putting down is field Blue from Valejo next is applying Orange ocher from Vallejo with this layout we want to ensure that the filled blue is still showing in the recesses and shadows the next color is then applying pale sand from Valejo and this is showing the final color that we want to get with this armor just ensure that the previous colors are gradually still showing through and finally we'll be applying bold ivory from Pro acryl and this is for the highest value on the armor with the armor now based we will quickly mask off the armor and prime the remaining of the model in light warm gray from pro-acrill next we'll be applying Gunner metal from AK interactive's true metal range and we'll start to buff this coloring over all of the warm gray that we've just put down now we don't need to cover everything just a quick passing just to deposit the metals onto the high areas this will get the metal areas ready for later to start with the weathering of this armor we'll be applying a one-to-one mix of streaking Grime and streaking rusts onto the armor panels and then we'll be using a brush and white Spirits I'll then gently go through and remove the enamels off the models and start to create the rust and shading along the armor at this point I honestly wasn't happy with how the armor was looking so much so that I went through and changed my mind multiple times I have no idea why I didn't like the look of the armor I even went through and tried the same scheme again surprisingly I just wasn't happy now I try to light brown I tried a gray and I even sat there and tried a red scheme I just wasn't happy and I don't know why I even tried doing oil and I just wasn't happy with the effect I have no idea why but then it dawned on me if in doubt go beige now this isn't exactly beige but we will base the armor in phage from valeriejo the final application is pale Sans for the highest points of the armor now this color scheme was only reserved for the top part of the carapace and the shoulders the legs and the hands were still in the original color scheme we'll then coat the armor with streaking Rus and then start to remove the enamels with the spirits and the brush I'll go through and stroke the enamel in the direction that I want the rust to streak the aim here is to mostly remove the rusts whilst leaving some random spots and areas running next I'll use light rust oils and start applying this into the heavy rust spots and then streak this up out into the Armor's coloring we aren't looking to be too precise we just want some color bleeding up out into the armor and at this point we'll also apply random spots over the steel frame there's no need to blend we just want to randomly place this over the frame for the time being next I'll use cream Brown from abtalung 502 and I'll apply this onto the highest areas of the armor apply a small Dot and then let the spirits evaporate once it's evaporated I'll go through and blend this color and drag it down into the light rust that we did previously when it comes to doing this step it's best to have two brushes at hand one brush to apply the color and another brush which is dry so we can blend the oils as for the trim this will be based in Mahogany and then apply a copper from AK interactive's true metal again we still want the original mahogany showing through from the Shadows next I'll use old bronze from AK interactive and apply this over the top of the copper mostly keeping this to the sharper flatter areas with the trim now done we can cool the armor done now for the still frame I'll go through and reapply gun metal over the top of the rust that we've just put down previously and finally applying silver to catch the top areas and to make the frame stand out time to deal with the wings again the wings are based in Mahogany and they will now apply Copper from making interactive all over the wings next is apply an old bronze along all of the Wings make sure that the copper is still showing in the shadows this will give more color variation into the metal of the Wings [Music] next I'll take gunmetal and apply this onto the blade edges of the Wings just be careful not to catch the panels with the majority of the model painted and ready we can now start looking and moving on to the next steps but first let's put vashtal together [Music] [Music] with vashtorn now built we can start on working some extra weathering onto the brass and metals we did previously I'll take copper oxide from apt along 502 and then thin this mixture heavily this is applied in random places along the trim and allowing it to bleed along the edges just be careful not to swamp the area next is taking turquoise lights and Performing the same step as before this time we want to be more selective where we place this color and with that now done we can start dealing with the bass for the base we had already made the largest part and feature and that is the cabling which is holding up vashtor so with this built I'll glue this onto the base and then apply smart mud all over the base this is to build up some area and dirt while blending in the plastic card of the plate and cabling next is applying a heavy coat of mod podge all over the base and then scattering ground dirt all over the base now I'll apply a coating of isopropyl alcohol all over the base and then add another layer of thinned Mod Podge all over the base again using the isopropyl alcohol will break the surface tension and glue the dirt together I'll give the base a couple of hours to set and cure now the base is just going to be a simple dirty base so the first color we put down is a one-to-one mix of warm gray and black this is applied over the entire base next is taking field blue and dry brushing this all over the entire ground of the base now this can be a little tricky in getting in between the cables but thankfully they are flexible enough and you can move them out the way next is adding pale Sands into the mix of filled blue and gradually increasing the brightness over the base slowly reducing the air recovered until we are only hitting the highest spots are done next is dealing with the cabling and for this I'll be using gunmetal from AK interactive and I'll apply this over the cables in a buffing motion finally I'll take steel and selectively highlight the highest spots of the cables next I'll be taking a mixture of light rusts and bitumen and applying this over the cables allowing the mixture to run and mix together just avoid the steel that we've just put down previously and with that now done all we need to do is glue down bash tool and we are left with this [Music] thank you [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music]

Channel: NuHue

Views: 25,058

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Id: iDiCC42RifY

Length: 22min 21sec (1341 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 09 2023