Devcon Honda B18 LS Full Motor Build

got my brothers v18 non-vtec here might be building it for him just tore the motor down last night there's there's everything from the oil town the alternative this is going to be a pretty simple build here we're going to do nippon turbo pistons scat rods arp head studs blocks dual valve springs it's the main gist of the the bill we're gonna be doing the comm sleeve reinforcement and that's pretty much it's pretty much gonna be it the goal is about four 450 horsepower for this we've got the head right here it's just drying off after running it through the parts washer real quick so it might be hard to see on the camera but the cylinder walls I got them all scuffed up here for the most part these ones are really really 30 so it cleaned up pretty well I'm gonna try to show you on the the walls there use the just a screwdriver with some sandpaper over it don't know what grit this is it's pretty low probably like 100 some real rough to drink grit everything up real good in there so the DEF CON grabs on nice I got the motor about as level as its gonna get on this engine stain I got some old disc brakes sitting in the feet raised the back side up to level off the middle besides I just loosened up all the bolts and just the block and retightened everything this will come back down once the head gets put on for the dev comm to harden up see if I push on that it kind of centers out so hopefully with the head that'll be uh it'll be you know as good as it needs to be alright so I'm gonna be using on painters tape to tape up the deck surface and then cut out the cooling jacket that way you don't get any salt or calm and do any any where we don't want it got the block all taped up here father pour the salt in and you can see how a grody this was so I'm gonna stuff a rag in here too I stopped the salt from coming off and I'm gonna fill the salt basically right up to the top of the output of the water pump right there [Music] alright so I got the water jacket filled with a combination of sugar and salt because I ran out of salt so I had to finish it up with sugar so both of them should work cuz you just got to make sure you it all gets washed out after this is what I used for a check in the height I just marked that with some tape right at the right where it sits at the top of the water pump output so I'm pretty much dead on there all the way around so I'll be mixing up the DEF CON and then pouring it in so for the DEF CON I'm gonna add the hardener to the resin just gonna pour it right into here I'm gonna mix it up with the fly head when it's all mixed get into the bag then cut a really tiny hole in the corner and use it to squirt it in around the around the cooling jacket so I got the DEF CON all mixed up here in the bag I'm gonna cut a small incision out the tip and then and go squirt it into the block all right so pretty much use that whole bag up and the DEF CON is right basically right where I wanted it just about a quarter inch right before the top of the block there the motors a little tilted so it's gonna be a bigger gap on this side until that gets on but I'm gonna pull off all the tape I got the old head gasket right there I'm gonna clamp the head on and then let this dry all right just got the IRP studs in got the old head gasket right there gotta put it on the head put the head on and tighten her down all right so I got the head tore thumb and yeah basically just let this sit and wait for the DEF CON the dry I'm gonna give it a day or two if you're really trying to go the extra mile at this part you create a bolt on the crank girdle the crank main holders but I I just decided to skip it and if you were gonna do that you'd want to do that before you begin pouring the dev calm because once you add the salt and pour the DEF CON you don't really want to be moving the block around too much just took the head off here here's that the Democratic gamer pretty good for the most part it's got a few spots where there are some air bubbles at the surface but for the most part pretty good pretty sure what happened was towards the end there was some air in the plastic bag and I had a really small opening so it was kind of like spewing out towards the end so that might have been my fault they're not worried about it so I got it marked up with yeah the head gasket just used on the center punch and we're gonna drill the holes I'm gonna read tape off everything just so I'll just let's clean up after we're doing a small hole not a bigger hole and we're going to be keeping the hole as close to the outside of the block as possible so to keep full support on the cylinder sleeve okay we got all the holes drilled here see how they're offset to the outside as much as possible it's also winter out now we had probably the worst thing that could happen and to doing this is the drill bit went through and then snapped off and one of these holes here and we had to go in with a special type drill bit and drill that out but that's all taken care of now the main thing was just being careful not to crack the depth column because then you'd probably have to try to Dremel it all out and repour it and should just be a big nightmare and waste of time but I'll figure it out now I was outside I got the hose I got the freeze plug out probably hard to see I can unplug this hole now for the first time yeah there's yep see all the salt in there so I'm just gonna be hosing it out the best I can and then we're gonna get this thing in the parts washer cuz this block is filthy [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] I got the block soaking here I scrubbed it down a little bit it's hard to see with the lighting here but this thing is just super super dirty so it's gonna need a few passes in here probably and you could just you know how cake down a lot of that grime is I'm just gonna clean it as best I can try to do a real good job on the front since that's what you actually see when it's out in the car I want to talk to you though gonna home on the bores out and then I throw it back in here clean clean up the bores and oil have to use and everything just on the block here it's gonna go in the parts washer one more time and then it'll be ready for your final assembly all right got the block here with the fresh home try to get that as good as like in a nice 45-degree cross edge getting ready to put the Rings in then set the ring gaps I got the Nippon Pistons right here I'm just breaking the wrist pins loose they come I notice that these generally are pretty pretty stuck in there so I'll show you guys how I break those free have them all loosened up all right this one's a perfect example to show you guys he already did this one it's the wrapper right there so these things are generally pretty pretty tight I could try it two hands but that's still gonna move so I'm gonna use a socket this is a 14 and I'm gonna go on this side since it's already recessed I'm gonna punch it through and then just you know coat the whole thing with Marvel and then reinsert it and then he should be fired [Music] just very carefully [Music] that [Music] [Music] okay I got that one not halfway up there even snow it doesn't doesn't want to spend her nothing she's the marble camp here spill it up make up your holes just drive forward into the hole you pour the rest right into the sleep said what the other side [Music] I actually probably should that this a little bit beforehand to help it coming out but not a problem [Music] [Music] my startup in this packet [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] right you guys can see it's a just about to fall out of the side of the pistol [Music] so I just wanna just cut just coat it just coat it in marble or whatever your lubricant of choices you know like many things in life you can never have a too much [Music] this one is uh particularly tight that will say it's starting to build there again starting to because I'm and this one is really tight [Music] as you can see I just put it all the way back in with just by hand and it just popped out on the other side there and I'm just got a little more on that side right there and then that should be it should be all set so just don't be alarmed if your wrist pins feel like they're seized up or a sign they just they just need a proper lubrication and everything be good [Music] now it's here that now just slides back and forth absolutely free and you saw how stuck this one was just a minute ago now I can get it all the way out and then with just barely any pressure yeah move off your wrist bins all right so I'm getting rings all out here there it is up the gap so I've smoked in with you lira on eBay who's the only official settler of the Nippon products and they used to ship these piss days with Hastings rings and they were having problems with crack Pistons because the Hastings rings four more designed for forged pistons rather than cast so they are these are custom rings specifically for these Pistons and the ring gaps are for the first ring are pretty standard but for the second ring the gap is supposed to be between 0.035 and 0.04 T which is basically almost basically double eleum spec which kind of alarmed me at first when you put the gap in and it's twice as big as you'd expect out of the box but I've confirmed with them and that is correct and that solves the piston cracking issue and just to clarify so they have these almost no labor these are the oil control rings second compression Airy first compression urn and your first ring goes right in the top second compression ring and the oil rings right there so may be confusing if you've never dealt with these before as the second ring say top on them but that's just to actually identify the top of the room as they also usually have an N or a top or some sort of marking if the ring goes which is the top side of the ring itself but not the actual reigning position on the piston some rings if they don't have any markings and generally those are the type that are designed to go in facing either direction and open a second rings first and set them in the bores as it's the ring that goes further down in the block than the top ring I'll show you guys how I like to put the reason I don't know if I'll be able to do this with one hand you but I like to close the gap as close as I can and then start with the side with the gap business has the sharp corners get that going then they're kind of like so I'm gonna work the edges down and look at that it's in all right once you got all the Rings in you're gonna want to use the one of your pistons and just set it in the board and this will give me a this'll sure the ring up so that way it's sitting on the flat surface and I like to push season right until the bottom of the skirt it's the top of the sleeve they're pretty much just like that and then I'm gonna go put the same thing at the top the first rings and I'm gonna set those to about right there is where I like to go and then I'm gonna come in with the velar gauges and see where I'm at and see if I got to take any material away so I'm checking the ring gaps here and the bottom gaps are all they're all good this is the point of a 3 5 gauge and I've got some bad lighting but it just slips right through on all these here I already went to do and did the top ones I got one coming in at 0.01 8 which is the tight end up spec for the but I'm really looking for like 0.01 9.0 20 so these rings are gonna have to be depth and so I got all the Rings gapped here the bottoms and they need to get touched and you're looking for 0.035 two point zero three eight per nippon spec and for the tops I set these just a foul over the loose limit because this motor is for my brother and I know how he drives so definitely want to be on the looser side so I'm setting these the point oh come on point Oh too long it just barely fits in there it goes point on 2 1 got the scat rounds in the parks washer getting cleaned off as per their instructions and they even want you to clean the bolts off and everything so I'm just want to do what it says someone be getting ready to put these rings on the pistons and then put the rods on the Pistons and put the Pistons and rods into the block all right so I got all the Pistons marked so I'll be putting the Rings on from the corresponding bores I got my little tool right there got the little control there and I'm just going to follow the instructions on the packaging to the T and get all these rings on here all right this is how I get the the rings on here start with the oil control and find the butt end and I'm just lining everything up with itself and then I'm gonna set the or the actual gaps are gonna go after so I put that on flip it upside down go for a oil control room okay if there's my gift so just start from the bottom of the piston here and just slide it down as even as possible and I like to do the top one first so I'll open the gap and get it above there and then flip it upside down and then drop the control ring into place all right that's in that make sure everything moves nice and loose nothing's binding up and then same dealio for the lower one here the main thing is you want to pull on the the gaps so you don't let because these have the sharp edges so those is what I'll actually scratch the piston if you're really worried about that and then someone just pops right in in there you go so I got the button the two gaps right there and like I said these will get clocked I like the clock I'm right before I install so that way I know they're clocked exactly how I want and if you're gonna clock them down then you have to double check them anyway then why not just save the time some testing goes up got my rings from the bores this is number three you start with the lower compression room get it in the get it in the tool open her up slide her down just slide it into the groove there and yeah make sure it's nice and loose no binding up on top one same thing get it in the tool open it slide it down there you go that's all the Rings right there and like I said I'm gonna orientate them orientate the gaps before I put them into the block so now these just need as i get the rods out of the parts washer and put the rods on the Pistons all right so this is how I deal with these spiral locks so just gonna take them and stretch them out be careful not to cut your fingers opened up like that [Music] take your piston I like to see which way the wrist pin likes to slide out easier one side usually is easier than the other in this case it's this side for this piston pops out you see that side this way it will pop out but not as easy so I do these side this side first there's a groove in there he's gonna take it and start with the end and start just working it and working it and spinning it and then once it won't spin anymore push it in as much as you can the one you can't push it in any more you're gonna take this and then pull it in on itself to close the gap and then and won't do that while pushing and then it will slide it just start working it into the groove there there I'm gonna push it into the groove okay and then it's I can't push it anymore so then I'm gonna take this I'm gonna spin it in on itself well pushing down that got it thing just push it in the rest of the way just double check to make sure it's it's seated fully and that's a spiral lock installed so I'll push the wrist pin out the side these are all nice and easy to push sense of lubricated them all up earlier and that you want to locate your exhaust side take your rod make sure you have your cap matching the tangs always go to each other and the tangs always go on the exhaust side so just double check your on the exhaust side I like to put a some Marvel right up in the cap there and the wrist pin area just spin it around so it just gets everywhere [Music] custom slide the pink bag [Music] and just like that [Music] so now the rods piston hangs on the exhaust side and then you just install the last Spyder a lot and I use these tools if I have trouble with the Spiro box it's just a pinpoint and then a like a half cut in point to get an edge these are more useful for removing spiral logs rather than installing because taking these off is a lot more of a pain in the ass than putting them on so again sang with the other side you just open it up and then we're get into the groove the same way [Music] just spin it until it doesn't want to spin anymore and start pushing it in by hand you usually get to about this side right here and then it won't want to go anymore then spin it in on itself while pushing down will pop in the rest of the way and then just finish it off by name you got any salt just like that and I already did all the other ones so these are ready to be installed into the block I'm just gonna clean it that and with some brake parts cleaner make sure there's nothing on the floors and then lubricate everything up with a little wd-40 and then pop them in with the ring compressor so this is where I set the ring caps on these feel free to not follow this if you don't like this but I like the first one there and then 90 degrees off and the oil control pinch right about there with the top being 45 off on the bottom being 45 off so I'm using the ARP ring compressor I really like this thing you just drop it in very carefully press it in just enough so you have the edge of the sleeve sticking out carefully drop it down into the bore then just take a rubber hammer and gently tap it in just like that so you're just repeat that get all our pistons installed the crankshaft and the main caps pickup - and windage tray I'll get an ice bath before I install them and plastic is everything and install the new bearings make sure all the oil clearances are all good I'm getting ready to install the bearing suit just take a like to take a rag and spray some brake parts cleaner in it and just carefully dab all the surfaces here the bearings are gonna sit on and making sure not to get any of the rag fibers in any of the oil holes or anything yes I'll show you guys how I like to install the bearings it seems to work pretty good so I start with the I always start with the tank side and use the tank to uh to locate it's a lot harder to do with one hand but I'll get it lined up just like that I'm gonna hold hold the top there so the bearing can't go up and then I'll squeeze it with the other side and push down and I'll just slide right into place these ones it's not as important but if you have a coated bearings surfaces are very easy to scratch them off see when I get that squeeze right so that way you're not cutting it with the edge of the the main here and this applies for the rod bearings as well just line them up with the tangs and plop them in alright so I got all the bearing caps in place l'ainte in the plastic age and I just dry some dope everything it's all all torqued up not about who I'm torque it all take it all apart and check the oil clearances alright just got the main caps on the rod caps off here and I already engaged everything up yeah rod caps were a bit stuck on there so I had to kind of tap him out a bit which definitely crushed the plasti gauge a bit more than normal so I kind of had to gauge off of where it got smushed out and I think this one you can really see how it had the had the solid part of it down on this ring camera and then you can see where it kind of got all almost like that looks like how it was but then right there you can see how it got all smushed out from having to tap the caps off here's all the measurements right here rods mains and that's the spec going for put the limits on the side there I wasn't going to get oh polish the crank because if it's you know if it's good how it is you'd rather not touch it but now that I've been working a lot more intimately with the crank and that's been totally cleaned off in the parts washer there is a like especially on this one there's a big big groove right there I can feel it with my uh my finger it's probably not coming up on camera but I'm gonna hit these with the old uh sandpaper a shoelace trick and should clean the journals up well I'm just by me ever so slightly more oil clearance all right so just got the whole bottle men here assembled pretty much just cleaned all the plastic edge off with the parts washer fluid used a very liberal amount of Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer and they been a Marvel Mystery Oil through the oil filter would go and just followed all the instructions on the main caps it's two steps up to fifty six foot pounds on the scat rods it's two steps up to fifty four pounds and then thing spins like butter here so this is gonna be because it's definitely gonna work in the middle of doing the head here using the HPT tool I got these four done still got about twelve to go using the blocks double valve springs for LSP 18 Beach 100 just got a socket ten mil rubber hammer and the most important part of this a magnet because the last thing you want to do just lose one of these damn keepers all right got the copper spray bottle go spray the hood gas all right got the head gasket sprayed here and hanging to dry a little bit I got the ARP head studs all in the block and I just got to finish up with the last few of alph Springs in the head from the head through the parts washer one last time and then the head will be going on I also got to do the rear main seal and the oil pump here and as well as the water pump all right got the bog here all ready to go the head studs I'm ducky [Applause] got the head you're all cleaned up gasps get all copper sprayed and I need to go we just talking the head block here they got the heater set up eat it on both sides evenly to try to get it up with attempt let it all cool down and then retort the head starts all right let the head cool down overnight retort everything 80 foot pounds and how to get it ready for the cams everything else for up there it's still waiting on the seal for the water pump and the oil pump pickup tube and the o-ring seal [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] all right so the yeah camera is about to die here but I got one of the cams all torqued down 86 inch pounds just gotta put the caps on the exhaust cam torque them down and that's pretty much it the head will be complete except for got to set the valve lash on the rockers add the rest of the caps clean enough right there so she's almost done the seals for the oil Paul showed up got the little trigger right here folks gotta get this all all ready to go and installed onto the block all right got the oil pump on all torqued up I just got a wipe away the excess Permatex that's squeezing out there I got the mortgage shrine pickup tube all cleaned and ready to go so I'm gonna be getting to that next [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] I got the water for carving boat horn is [Music] is all good West Point hello in fact for us and if the block bring their flood so I just gotta get the intake manifold on the common cover so I camera died yesterday but we've been hustling got all this all together pretty much ready to go in then we'll be tuning you got the motor pretty much ready to go here just named see ya some intercooler pipe in and gotta fill her up with oil smart phones and we'll be doing the first start [Music]

Channel: The Brown Garage

Views: 3,597

Rating: 4.8235292 out of 5

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Id: loeJFhniixE

Length: 46min 30sec (2790 seconds)

Published: Mon Jan 20 2020