HI, I'M RICK STEVES, BACK WITH MORE
OF THE BEST OF EUROPE. THIS TIME, WE'RE IN NORTH WALES,
SPLITTING SLATE, EXPLORING CASTLES,
AND STEAMING UP MOUNTAINS. THANKS FOR JOINING US. WALES' TOP HISTORICAL,
NATURAL, AND CULTURAL WONDERS ARE FOUND HERE IN THE NORTH. FROM TOWERING MOUNT SNOWDON
TO EVOCATIVE CASTLES TO SWEEPING
VICTORIAN PROMENADES -- IT'S A POEM
WRITTEN IN LANDSCAPE. I THINK THIS AREA HAS AS MUCH SIGHTSEEING DIVERSITY
AND INTEREST AS ANY PLACE IN BRITAIN. WE'LL MOUNTAIN CLIMB
ON A STEAM TRAIN, LEARN SOME WELSH... [ SPEAKS WELSH ] FOLLOW A MINER
DEEP INTO A SLATE MINE, SHEPHERD SHEEP, GET PASSIONATE ABOUT CASTLES,
AND IMMERSE OURSELVES IN BRITAIN'S TOP SCENIC WONDERS. THE BRITISH ISLES CONSIST OF ENGLAND
AND THREE CELTIC LANDS. OUR TARGET THIS TIME
IS NORTH WALES, WHERE WE'LL VISIT
A BEACH RESORT, TWO CASTLE TOWNS,
A SLATE MINE, AND A NATIONAL PARK
WITH WALES' TALLEST PEAK. WE FINISH JUST OVER THE BORDER IN THE ENGLISH CITY
OF LIVERPOOL. WE START IN
THE TOWN OF LLANDUDNO, A GENTEEL
VICTORIAN BEACH RESORT. IT WAS BUILT AFTER THE ADVENT
OF THE RAILWAYS, WHICH MADE THE WELSH SEA COAST
EASILY ACCESSIBLE TO ENGLAND'S
INDUSTRIAL HEARTLAND. IN THE 1800s, THE NOTION
THAT BATHING IN SEA WATER WAS GOOD FOR YOUR HEALTH
WAS TRENDY. AND THE BRACING SEA AIR WAS JUST WHAT
THE DOCTOR ORDERED. ANY SELF-RESPECTING SEA RESORT CAME WITH A NICE LONG PIER OFFERING VACATION GOERS
A DAY AT SEA, AND A GOOD WALK TO BOOT. LLANDUDNO IS HUGELY POPULAR
WITH THE ENGLISH -- YOU WON'T SEE
MANY OTHER FOREIGNERS HERE. THE LONG LINES
OF OLD TIME HOTELS OFFER THEIR GUESTS THE WARMEST WELCOME POSSIBLE. BUT IN THE FORTIFIED CASTLE TOWN OF CONWY, JUST A FEW MILES AWAY, WE LEARN THAT THE ENGLISH
WEREN'T ALWAYS SO WELCOME. EIGHT CENTURIES AGO,
THOSE ENGLISH WERE INVADERS, SENT HERE BY THEIR KING
TO HELP ESTABLISH A FOOTHOLD IN A LAND HE WANTED TO
INCORPORATE INTO HIS REALM. THESE ENGLISH GARRISON TOWNS, WITH AWE-INSPIRING WALLS AND STATE-OF-THE-ART CASTLES, CREATED WHAT WAS KNOWN
AS "THE RING OF STONE AND IRON" AROUND THE LAND OF THE WELSH. THEY SAY WALES HAS
MORE CASTLES PER SQUARE MILE THAN ANY
PLACE IN EUROPE. AND MOST OF THEM
ARE ENGLISH CASTLES, BUILT HERE IN THE 13th CENTURY
BY KING EDWARD TO ESTABLISH ENGLISH RULE HERE AND SUBDUE THE FEISTY WELSH. THE GREATEST OF EDWARD'S
CASTLES, LIKE CONWY CASTLE, WERE MASTERPIECES
OF MEDIEVAL ENGINEERING. THEIR TOWERS WERE ROUND --
TOUGHER TO BREAK THROUGH WITH NO CORNERS TO KNOCK OFF. THE CASTLE-WITHIN-A-CASTLE
DEFENSE GAVE DEFENDERS
A PLACE TO RETREAT AND WREAK HAVOC
ON THE ADVANCING ENEMY OR JUST WAIT
FOR REINFORCEMENTS. AND WITH SEA ACCESS, THEY COULD BE RESTOCKED SAFELY
FROM ENGLAND. CONWY CASTLE
HAS AN INTERESTING STORY AND LOCAL GUIDES,
WHO HANG OUT AT THE ENTRANCE READY TO TAKE YOU
ON AN INEXPENSIVE IMPROMPTU TOUR, TELL
THE STORY WELL. NEVILLE HORTOP BRINGS THIS
CASTLE TO LIFE WITH GUSTO. Neville:
AND IT'S A WONDERFUL CASTLE 'CAUSE IT'S TWO CASTLES IN ONE. WE ARE GOING THROUGH INTO THE SOLDIERS' PART
OF THE CASTLE. WE HAVE THIS LOVELY,
GREAT COURTYARD HERE. THIS WAS A PRACTICAL PLACE
WHERE THE MILITARY STAYED THEN? THE MILITARY STAYED HERE BECAUSE IT WAS SIMPLY
A MILITARY CASTLE WITH AN ADJUNCT
FOR THE KING REALLY. THIS WAS HERE
FOR THE MILITARY. THIS IS THE BANQUET HALL
FOR EVERYBODY. THERE WAS WONDER
IN THE EVENINGS HERE. A WINTER'S EVENING
WITH A MASSIVE FIRE THERE, AND A MASSIVE FIRE THERE, AND THE LOVELY SMELL OF THE MEAT, AND THE ODOR OF THE WINE, AND THE MUSIC
FROM THE MINSTRELS. AND ALL THESE PEOPLE
-- THE KING, HIS PEOPLE FROM LONDON,
THE SOLDIERS -- ALL INTERMINGLED IN HERE. AND THIS IS THE LIFE
OF THE CASTLE. BUT HERE'S YOUR THICK WALL. HERE'S YOUR 10-FOOT WALL, WHICH IS CUTTING YOU OFF
FROM THE SOLDIERS' CASTLE AND BRINGING YOU RIGHT
INTO THE KING'S PART. Rick: OKAY, SO ENEMY
COMES, RAISE THE DRAWBRIDGE, INTO
THE KING'S ZONE. Neville: SO NOW, WE'RE IN
THE KING'S PART OF THE CASTLE. THIS IS A LUXURY PART. THESE ARE THE ROYAL CHAMBERS
ALL THE WAY AROUND HERE. THIS, OF COURSE, IS THE OPEN COURTYARD FOR FRESH AIR, A SMALL FOOD STORE THERE. THE SERVANTS OF THE CASTLE WOULD BE IN THESE LOWER ROOMS. AND THESE ARE THE ROYAL ROOMS. AND AS WE GET OUT HERE, WE REALLY SEE THE FULFILLMENT
OF EDWARD'S IDEA. WHENEVER HE BUILT A CASTLE, HE'S GOT TO HAVE A WATER EXIT, HE'S GOT TO BE ABLE TO SUPPLY IT
FROM THE RIVER, HE'S GOT TO HAVE
AN ESCAPE BY THE RIVER. AND THIS WAS
IN ALL EDWARD'S PLANNING. EVERY CASTLE HE BUILDS
HAS TO HAVE THIS WATER-DEFINED EXIT
AND ENTRY FOR HIM. Steves: SO THE WELSH COULD BE
CONTROLLING ALL THE LAND AND THE ENGLISH
WOULD STILL BE FINE HERE BECAUSE THEY'VE GOT
THE WATER ACCESS. THEY'VE GOT THE WATER,
THEY'VE GOT THE SUPPLIES, AND THEY'VE GOT THIS MAGNIFICENT
CASTLE, OF COURSE. Rick: A STROLL ALONG THE BEST
MEDIEVAL WALLS IN BRITAIN REWARDS YOU WITH GRAND
AND EVOCATIVE VIEWS. THIS GARRISON TOWN WAS A KIND OF 13th CENTURY GREEN ZONE OR SAFE BASE
FOR THE ENGLISH INVADERS AS THEY TRIED AND TRIED TO PUT DOWN THE ANGRY WELSH INSURGENCY. YOU CAN STILL SEE THE ORIGINAL CHECKERBOARD STREET PLAN THE ENGLISH CAME
UP WITH WHEN THEY BUILT THE CASTLE AND RAMPARTS. THIS GRID PLAN OF STREETS
DATES FROM ABOUT 1280 WHEN EDWARD BUILT CONWY AND FILLED IT WITH ENGLISH SETTLERS. EVEN THOUGH HE NEARLY
BANKRUPTED THE COUNTRY WITH HIS EXTRAVAGANT
CASTLE BUILDING, MANY CONSIDER EDWARD TO BE ENGLAND'S FINEST MONARCH. HE ESTABLISHED AND CONSOLIDATED
THE UNITED KINGDOM -- IN OTHER WORDS, ADDED WALES
AND SCOTLAND TO ENGLAND -- IN ORDER TO CREATE A REALM
BIG ENOUGH TO COMPETE WITH THE RISING
EUROPEAN POWERS OF THE AGE. CONWY'S CHARMING HIGH STREET LEADS DOWN TO THE HARBOR, WHICH PERMITTED EDWARD
TO SAFELY RESTOCK HIS CASTLE. WANDER DOWNHILL, ENJOYING
THE SLICE-OF-WELSH-LIFE SCENE. PLAS MAWR -- A RARE SURVIVING
ELIZABETHAN HOUSE -- DATES FROM 1580. IT WAS THE FIRST
GREAT WELSH HOME TO BE BUILT
WITHIN CONWY'S WALLS. STEPPING INTO THE HOUSE,
VISITORS ARE WOWED BY THE HERALDRY
OVER THE FIREPLACE. REPAINTED IN
ITS ORIGINAL BRIGHT COLORS, IT PROCLAIMS THE RICH FAMILY'S
PRINCELY LINEAGE. BILLED AS THE FINEST
ELIZABETHAN HOUSE IN WALES, PLAS MAWR OFFERS
A DELIGHTFUL PEEK INTO 16th-CENTURY
DOMESTIC LIFE. AN EXCELLENT AUDIO GUIDE
EXPLAINS EACH ROOM. THE KITCHEN CAME WITH ALL THE LATEST CIRCA 1600 REFINEMENTS -- A HANGING BREAD
CAGE TO KEEP FOOD AWAY FROM WANDERING CRITTERS, HAY ON THE FLOOR
TO ADD A LITTLE WARMTH AND SOAK UP THE SPILLAGE, AND A GOOD SUPPLY OF FRESH MEAT
IN THE PANTRY. THE LADY OF THE HOUSE'S BEDROOM DOUBLED AS A SITTING ROOM, WITH A FOOT WARMER BY THE CHAIR AND A FINELY CARVED
FOUR-POSTER BED. THE CURTAINS WERE DRAWN
AT NIGHT TO KEEP OUT THE BUGS
AND KEEP IN THE WARMTH. THE GREAT CHAMBER
WAS FOR HEARTY FEASTING FOLLOWED BY BOISTEROUS
GAMING, DANCING, AND MUSIC. ALL THIS EXTRAVAGANT
ENTERTAINMENT UNDER A CEILING
FULL OF MORE HERALDRY, REFLECTING IMPORTANT,
IF DUBIOUS, FAMILY CONNECTIONS, LEFT A POWERFUL IMPACT
ON GUESTS. CONWY'S HARBOR, ONCE VITAL
FOR MILITARY PURPOSES AND THEN A BUSY INDUSTRIAL PORT, IS NOW A LAIDBACK ZONE THAT LOCALS TREAT
LIKE A TOWN SQUARE. IT'S SATURDAY NIGHT
AND THE ACTION IS ON THE QUAY. THE SCENE IS MELLOW, MULTIGENERATIONAL, AND PERFECTLY WELSH. IT'S A SMALL TOWN
AND EVERYONE'S HERE, ENJOYING THE LOCAL CUISINE, CHATTING ON THE PIER, SPILLING OUT OF THE PUB, AND SAVORING THAT
GREAT WELSH PASTIME OF TORTURING LITTLE CRABS. THE NEXT ENGLISH CASTLE TOWN
OVER IS CAERNARFON. LIKE CONWY, IT ORIGINATED AS ONE
OF KING EDWARD'S GARRISON TOWNS. IT STILL SPREADS OUT
FROM ITS PROTECTIVE CASTLE FOLLOWING EDWARD'S
ORIGINAL GRID PLAN LAID WITHIN
ITS STILL-IMPRESSIVE RAMPARTS. CAERNARFON WAS THE MOST
EXPENSIVE CASTLE AN ENGLISH KING EVER BUILT. CONSTRUCTED AS A KEY FORTRESS IN EDWARD'S IRON RING
OF CASTLES, ITS SHEER IMMENSITY WAS DESIGNED TO PROMPT HUMILITY. IT'S FAMOUS
FOR ITS PHYSICAL GRANDEUR AND FOR ITS ASSOCIATION
WITH THE PRINCE OF WALES. IN MODERN TIMES,
TO GIVE THE WELSH A SENSE OF BELONGING TO BRITAIN, THE PRINCE OF WALES HAS BEEN
GIVEN HIS TITLE HERE. IT WAS HERE THAT, IN 1969, QUEEN ELIZABETH CROWNED HER
SON CHARLES PRINCE OF WALES. MY FRIEND AND FELLOW TOUR GUIDE,
MARTIN DE LEWANDOWICZ, HELPS ME WITH ALL THIS HISTORY. SO WHY HERE ON THIS DESOLATE,
WINDY, NORTH COAST OF WALES WOULD EDWARD BUILD
SUCH AN INCREDIBLE CASTLE? EDWARD HAD TO CONQUER WALES AND ONCE HE STARTED
TO MOVE WEST, HE DID WHAT JOHN WAYNE
DID MANY YEARS LATER. HE MOVED WEST, HE BUILDS FORTS. IN THE FORTS, HE PUT SOLDIERS. THE GARRISON
OF SOLDIERS ARE SAFE, NOBODY ELSE IS SAFE, AND
THEREFORE, THE FORT CONTROLS THE AREA. IT'S
HOW ANY CASTLE WORKED. Rick: SO THIS IS
AN ENGLISH TOEHOLD HERE WITH AN ANGRY INSURGENCY
ALL AROUND. Martin: THAT'S RIGHT, AND
WHEN YOU THINK ABOUT THE WALLED TOWN OF CAERNARFON,
YOU THINK OF THOSE SETTLERS MOVING IN FROM
BACK EAST TOWARD ENGLAND, THEY ARE REALLY PIONEER SETTLERS SHELTERING IN FEAR
BEHIND THE MEDIEVAL TOWN WALL. THIS CASTLE ALONE,
1 OF 13, COST NEARLY A YEAR'S INCOME
FOR EDWARD I. IT'S THE MOST
EXPENSIVE CASTLE EVER BUILT BY
A KING OF ENGLAND. Rick: AND IT'S FANCY. Martin: IT'S ONE OF THE FEW CASTLES, I
THINK, THAT MANAGES TO ACHIEVE BOTH ARCHITECTURE, ART,
AND DEFENSIBILITY AT THE SAME TIME. IT WORKS AS A CASTLE AND IT WORKS
AS A PIECE OF ART AT THE SAME TIME. Rick: YOU CAN RE-LIVE
A MEDIEVAL MOMENT OR TWO BY WATCHING
A METAL THUMPING REENACTMENT. [ LAUGHTER ] OOH! All: OOH, OOH! WHAT, SORRY, WHAT? AFTER WEDNESDAY IS THURSDAY? SO WITH ALL THESE
INCREDIBLE CASTLES, WERE THE ENGLISH ABLE
TO KEEP THE WELSH DOWN? WELL, POLITICALLY, YES,
BUT CULTURALLY, NO. THIS IS STILL THE LAND
OF THE WELSH LANGUAGE WHERE WE COMPOSE POETRY
AND WE SING SONGS IN WELSH. YEAH, SO POETRY IS A BIG DEAL? OH, POETRY'S HUGE. IT IS A MANLY THING
TO RECITE YOUR RECENTLY COMPOSED POEM TO YOUR WORKMATES IN WORK
ON A MONDAY MORNING. REALLY?
OH, YEAH. Rick: NOW WHAT IS THE STATE
OF THE LANGUAGE TODAY? Martin: WELL, TODAY,
IT IS FANTASTIC IN THAT IF YOU GO TO A PRIMARY SCHOOL, A STANDARD STATE
PRIMARY SCHOOL, EVERYTHING IS TAUGHT IN WELSH. SO WHY IS THE WELSH LANGUAGE
SO IMPORTANT TO YOU? RICK, I DON'T THINK YOU CAN
EVEN CONCEIVE OF WALES WITHOUT THE WELSH LANGUAGE. BY THAT I MEAN,
THE WORDS TO EXPLAIN WALES ONLY EXIST IN WELSH. [ SPEAKS WELSH ] WHAT'S THAT? IT'S A BLESSING,
IT'S A PRIVILEGE TO BE A WELSHMAN
WHO SPEAKS WELSH. [ SPEAKS WELSH ] Rick:
TRAVELING THROUGH WALES, IT'S EASY FOR THE TRAVELER
NOT TO REALIZE THAT THE LANGUAGE HERE
ACTUALLY IS WELSH. [ SPEAKS WELSH ] Rick: LOCALS SPEAK WELSH
TO EACH OTHER AND ENGLISH TO VISITORS. WHILE EVERY THING HERE
IS BILINGUAL, WELSH COMES FIRST. TAKING ADVANTAGE OF THE MOBILITY
OUR RENTAL CAR PROVIDES, WE'RE ENJOYING
A BED AND BREAKFAST IMMERSED IN THE LUSH
WELSH COUNTRYSIDE. THE BREAKFAST IS AS GOOD
AS ANY FANCY HOTEL. THE ROOMS COME WITH
ELEGANT OLD FOUR-POSTER BEDS, THE LOUNGE IS JUST RIGHT
FOR MAKING FRIENDS FROM AROUND THE WORLD, AND THE PRISTINE SETTING
IS IDEAL FOR TESTING THE REFLEXES
OF THE FAMILY'S SHEEPDOGS. SHEEP ARE EVERYWHERE
IN WALES -- THEY SPECKLE THE COUNTRYSIDE. AND EVERY SHEPHERD
NEEDS A GOOD SHEEPDOG. DOGS, TRAINED TO RESPOND
TO DIFFERENT WHISTLES, LOVE TO BULLY THE SHEEP WHEREVER THE FARMER
WANTS THEM TO GO. AND EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE, THAT
MEANS, IN FOR A GOOD HAIRCUT. AND WHERE THERE ARE SHEEP,
THERE ARE WOOLEN MILLS. AND SOME WELCOME THE PUBLIC. MY FAVORITE IS IN THE TOWN
OF TREFRIW WHERE YOU CAN FOLLOW
THE SPINNING PROCESS FROM RAW WOOL
TO THE FINAL FABRIC. YOU'LL SEE A TRADITIONAL
SPINNING WHEEL AND A BUSY HISTORIC MILL
IN ACTION. HERE, THE MECHANICAL LOOM
READS A PATTERN TO WEAVE AN INTRICATE DESIGN. AND IF ALL THAT HARD WORK
STOKES YOUR NEED FOR A WARM
AND WEARABLE SOUVENIR, THAT'S PART OF THE MILL VISIT
AS WELL. FOR SOME HEAVIER INDUSTRY, WE'RE VISITING
BLAENAU FFESTINIOG, THE QUINTESSENTIAL
WELSH SLATE-MINING TOWN. THE SHOPS SEEM
TO HAVE CHANGED LITTLE SINCE THE MINES STOPPED BEING
PROFITABLE BACK IN THE 1960s. LONG ROWS OF HUMBLE HOMES, NICKNAMED "TWO-UP AND TWO-DOWN" FOR THEIR TINY ROOMS, FEEL EMPTY
AS THE TOWN'S POPULATION TODAY IS HALF WHAT IT WAS IN
ITS SLATE-MINING HEYDAY. BLAENAU FFESTINIOG
WAS A COMPANY TOWN AND THAT COMPANY
WAS THE LLECHWEDD SLATE MINE. SLATE MINING
PLAYED A BLOCKBUSTER ROLE IN WELSH HERITAGE, AND THE LLECHWEDD MINE
NOW WELCOMES VISITORS. IT DOES A FINE JOB OF EXPLAINING THE
MINING CULTURE OF VICTORIAN WALES. VISITORS RIDE A TRAIN
DEEP INTO THE MOUNTAIN WHERE A GUIDE TELLS
OF THE HARSH WORKING CONDITIONS AND TRADITIONAL
MINING TECHNIQUES. Guide: DOWN HERE, WE'RE
ABOUT 300 FEET UNDERGROUND. IN THE DEEP MINES, THOUGH,
YOU CAN GO DOWN TO 450 FEET, BUT THE MINE ITSELF
IS OVER 1,500 FEET DEEP. WORKING HOURS WOULD BE FROM 6:00
IN THE MORNING TILL 6:00 AT NIGHT, HALF-AN-HOUR BREAK
FOR THEIR LUNCH, AND THEY'D WORK
FOR 6 DAYS A WEEK WITH SUNDAYS
BEING THEIR ONLY DAYS OFF. THEY'D HAVE 3 DAYS
HOLIDAYS EVERY YEAR. THEY WERE USUALLY CHRISTMAS DAY, GOOD FRIDAY,
AND THANKSGIVING DAY, AND THEY WERE TAKEN WITHOUT PAY. Rick: OUR TOUR FINISHES WITH A SLATE-SPLITTING
DEMONSTRATION. Guide: TRYING TO CUT THE
SLATE DOWN, HE WOULD TRY AND CUT THE BLOCK
DOWN IN HALF EVERY TIME. SLATE SPLITTING IS STILL
DONE THE SAME WAY TODAY AS IT WAS 150 YEARS AGO,
IT'S STILL DONE BY HAND. THEY'VE TRIED INVENTING MACHINES
TO DO THIS WORK, BUT AT THE MOMENT NOTHING
CAN BEAT MAN IN DOING THE JOB. Rick: AND FOR EVERY TON OF
SLATE THE MINERS PRODUCED, THERE WERE ABOUT 10 TONS OF
WASTE LEFT OUTSIDE IN HEAPS. SINGING HELPED THE MINERS
ENDURE THEIR HARSH LIVES. WHILE THE MINING CULTURE
IS VIRTUALLY GONE, THE TRADITION
OF SINGING SURVIVES. THE MEN'S CHOIRS OF WALES
ARE FAMOUS FOR THEIR BEAUTIFUL MUSIC. TOWN CHOIRS WELCOME VISITORS TO BOTH THEIR WEEKLY PRACTICES AND THEIR MANY CONCERTS. TONIGHT, THE MEN'S CHOIR
OF DENBIGH IS PERFORMING. [ SINGING IN WELSH ] ♪ AMEN ♪ ♪ AMEN ♪ ♪ AMEN ♪ ♪ AMEN ♪♪ Rick: FOR PEACE AND TRANQUILITY, DON'T MISS BODNANT GARDEN. THIS SUMPTUOUS 80-ACRE DISPLAY
OF FLORAL COLOR IS ONE OF BRITAIN'S
MOST IMPRESSIVE GARDENS. WHILE THE FLOWERS
ARE AT THEIR BEST IN THE SPRING AND EARLY SUMMER, WE'RE HERE IN LATE AUGUST AND IT'S
STILL PLUSH WITH VIBRANT COLORS BURSTING OUT ALL OVER. THE GARDENS, TERRACES,
AND DELIGHTFUL REFLECTING PONDS WERE DESIGNED TO INCORPORATE
THE EXISTING LANDSCAPE. THE WILD ENGLISH STYLE
SEEMS TO SPAR PLAYFULLY WITH THE MORE FORMAL
ITALIAN STYLE GARDENS. FOR NATURE AT ITS WILD
AND WELSH BEST, IT'S SNOWDONIA NATIONAL PARK -- ARGUABLY BRITAIN'S MOST RUGGED
AND BEAUTIFUL MOUNTAIN AREA. THE PARK, BRITAIN'S
SECOND LARGEST WITH OVER 800 SQUARE MILES
OF PRISTINE HIKING COUNTRY AND A DOZEN
OF ITS HIGHEST PEAKS, IS ONE OF THE COUNTRY'S FAVORITE
NATURAL PLAYGROUNDS. THE RESORT CENTER OF SNOWDONIA
NATIONAL PARK IS BETWS-Y-COED. WHILE VERY TOURISTY
AND COMMERCIAL, THIS TOWN IS A PICTURESQUE
AND HANDY JUMPING-OFF SPOT FOR EXPLORING THE SCENIC WONDERS
OF NORTH WALES. BETWS-Y-COED IS GREAT
FOR FAMILY FUN AND IT'S THE SPRINGBOARD
FOR A WORLD OF POPULAR HIKES. THE MINERS' BRIDGE
IS A FAVORITE FOR PAINTERS. AND THE SCENIC SWALLOW FALLS
ARE JUST UPSTREAM. NEARBY, BEDDGELERT
IS SMALLER AND LESS TOURISTY. THIS QUINTESSENTIAL
NATIONAL PARK VILLAGE, ALSO THE STARTING POINT FOR MANY FINE HIKES, IS IDEAL FOR THOSE
WANTING TO EXPERIENCE THE NATURAL GRANDEUR
OF SNOWDONIA. MOUNT SNOWDON, THE TALLEST
MOUNTAIN IN ENGLAND OR WALES, IS THE PARK'S CENTERPIECE. EACH YEAR, HALF A MILLION PEOPLE SCALE THIS 3,500-FOOT PEAK. WHILE THE STANDARD HIKE
TO THE SUMMIT TAKES ONLY ABOUT FOUR HOURS,
THERE'S PLENTY OF CHALLENGE FOR THOSE LOOKING
FOR TOUGHER ROUTES. IN FACT, SIR EDMUND HILLARY
AND HIS GANG TRAINED HERE
BEFORE TACKLING MOUNT EVEREST. THE EASIEST ASCENT IS BY
THE SNOWDON MOUNTAIN RAILWAY, A FOUR-MILE-LONG COG RAILWAY
DATING FROM 1896. THE MIGHTY LITTLE ENGINES
PUSH THE JAM-PACKED CARS SCENICALLY UP
PAST THE TREELINE AND ULTIMATELY
TO THE TOP OF WALES. HERE ON MOUNT SNOWDON, WE'RE HIGHER
THAN ANYBODY IN WALES OR ENGLAND. EVERYTHING WE'VE SEEN SO FAR IS WITHIN ABOUT 20 MILES
OF THIS SPOT. AND THERE'S LOTS MORE NEARBY. IRELAND IS JUST
OVER THE SEA TO THE WEST. ENGLAND IS JUST THAT WAY. AND 50 MILES
TO THE NORTHEAST, THE BEATLES PERFORMED FOR
THEIR FIRST TIME IN LIVERPOOL. LIVERPOOL, JUST OVER THE BORDER IN ENGLAND, IS A GRITTY BUT SURPRISINGLY
ENJOYABLE CITY. IT OFFERS A FASCINATING
URBAN CONTRAST TO THE NATURAL SPLENDORS
OF WALES. IT'S AN INTERESTING STOP
BOTH FOR BEATLES FANS AND FOR THOSE WHO'D LIKE
TO LOOK URBAN BRITAIN STRAIGHT IN THE EYES. THE CITY, ONCE RUNDOWN
AND PRETTY GRIM, IS ENJOYING A RENAISSANCE. ALBERT DOCK IS THE CENTERPIECE. OPENED IN 1846 BY PRINCE ALBERT,
QUEEN VICTORIA'S HUSBAND, THE DOCKS ENCLOSE
SEVEN ACRES OF WATER. IT'S SURROUNDED BY A
FIVE-STORY-TALL BRICK WAREHOUSE, NOW HOUSING FINE RESTAURANTS, CONCERT VENUES, A CONVENTION
CENTER, AND FANCY CONDOS. IN ITS DAY, LIVERPOOL WAS
ENGLAND'S GREATEST SEAPORT. IT PROSPERED AS ONE CORNER
OF THE TRIANGULAR COMMERCE OF THE 18th-CENTURY SLAVE TRADE. BRITISH MERCHANTS AND SHIPPERS POWERED THIS THREE-SIDED
TRADING SCHEME. THEY EXPORTED MANUFACTURED GOODS
TO AFRICA IN EXCHANGE
FOR ENSLAVED AFRICANS WHO WERE THEN SHIPPED
TO THE AMERICAS AND TRADED FOR RAW MATERIALS, LIKE COTTON, TOBACCO AND SUGAR, WHICH THEY IMPORTED
BACK TO BRITAIN. WHILE PARTIES ON ALL THREE SIDES
MADE MONEY, THE BIG PROFITS CAME HOME
TO ENGLAND. AS BRITAIN BOOMED,
SO DID LIVERPOOL. THE MERSEYSIDE MARITIME MUSEUM
TELLS THE STORY OF THE PORT OF WHAT WAS THE SECOND CITY
OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE. AFTER THE SHIPPING OF SLAVES
WAS OUTLAWED IN BRITAIN IN THE EARLY 1800s, LIVERPOOL KEPT ITS PORT BUSY AS A TRANSFER POINT
FOR EMIGRANTS. WHETHER YOUR ANCESTORS CAME FROM
SCANDINAVIA, UKRAINE, IRELAND OR WALES, THERE'S A GOOD CHANCE
THEY LEFT EUROPE FROM THIS PORT. BETWEEN 1830 AND 1930, NINE MILLION EMIGRANTS
SAILED FROM LIVERPOOL TO FIND THEIR DREAMS IN THE NEW WORLD. MOST WENT TO THE U.S.A. AWE-INSPIRING STEAMERS
LIKE THE LUSITANIA CALLED THIS PORT HOME. MANY OF US KNOW LIVERPOOL
AS THE SPRINGBOARD FOR THE BAND THAT CHANGED THE WORLD
BACK IN THE 1960s, THE BEATLES. THE BEATLES STORY IS A MUSEUM
ABOUT THE BAND THAT MADE ROCK & ROLL A WORLDWIDE PHENOMENON. MANY PEOPLE VISIT LIVERPOOL JUST TO REMEMBER JOHN, PAUL,
GEORGE, AND RINGO. Guide: OKAY, FOLKS, ON THE RIGHT-HAND
SIDE IS THE McCARTNEY HOUSE. JOHN AND PAUL WROTE SOME OF THEIR
FIRST HITS HERE IN THIS HOUSE. Rick: FOR A PROPER
"BEATLE PILGRIMAGE," YOU NEED TO TAKE A BEATLES TOUR. SEVERAL COMPANIES
RUN TOURS DAILY -- FROM SLICK BIG BUSES TO MORE
PERSONAL MINIBUS TOURS. GUIDES ARE FOUNTAINS
OF BEATLE TRIVIA, GIVING YOU THE ENTIRE RUNDOWN
ON EVERY SIGHT IN TOWN ASSOCIATED WITH THE GROUP
AND ITS MUSIC. Guide: AND IT WAS IN THESE
POORER PARTS OF LIVERPOOL THAT THE BEATLES WERE BORN
AND GREW UP AND, IN FACT, RINGO STARR, LIVING
IN ADMIRAL GROVE ON THE RIGHT. WE'RE EVEN GOING PAST
THE PUB WHERE HIS MOTHER HAD TO WORK
TO PAY FOR THE RENT. THIS IS THE NEIGHBORHOOD KNOWN TO THE PEOPLE OF LIVERPOOL
AS PENNY LANE, AND PAUL McCARTNEY
AND ALL THE BEATLES WOULD BE COMING HERE
AS YOUNG BOYS. NOW THIS IS THE SHELTER IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROUNDABOUT
THAT PAUL SINGS ABOUT. "BEHIND THE SHELTER IN
THE MIDDLE OF THE ROUNDABOUT, THERE'S A PRETTY NURSE
SELLING POPPIES FROM A TRAY." THEN YOU'VE GOT THE BANK
ON THE CORNER, WITH THE ARROGANT BANK MANAGER. AND PAUL McCARTNEY SINGS, "ON THE CORNER
THERE'S A BANKER WITH A MOTORCAR. THE LITTLE CHILDREN
LAUGH BEHIND HIS BACK." FURTHER DOWN THE ROAD IS THE FIRE
STATION WITH THE "CLEAN MACHINE." "ON THE CORNER THERE'S A BARBER
SHOWING PHOTOGRAPHS OF ALL THE HEADS HE'S HAD THE PLEASURE
TO HAVE KNOWN. ALL THE PEOPLE STOP
AND SAY HELLO." YOU GOT ALL THESE THINGS
THAT YOU SEE THROUGHOUT THE YEAR THAT PAUL McCARTNEY
DESCRIBES IN HIS SONG ARE TAKING PLACE
STILL TO THIS DAY. Rick: LIVERPOOL ENTERTAINS,
FROM ITS BEATLE LORE, TO ITS POWERFUL
SHIPPING HERITAGE. AND NORTH WALES --
FROM ITS DRAMATIC CASTLES, TO ITS EVOCATIVE LANDSCAPE
AND HISTORY AND FROM ITS NATURAL BEAUTY TO ITS FRIENDLY PEOPLE -- PACKS AN IMPRESSIVE
SIGHTSEEING PUNCH. THIS IS A FASCINATING CORNER
OF GREAT BRITAIN. AS WE'VE LEARNED AGAIN,
HAVING LOCAL FRIENDS AND GUIDES TO EXPLAIN WHAT
WE'RE LOOKING AT BRINGS OUR SIGHTSEEING
TO LIFE. I'M RICK STEVES.
THANKS FOR JOINING US. UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELING.