Creality Cr10S PRO upgrades - Noctua fans install and more

hi guys next to here in the last two videos we made some upgrades on the CR tennis pro first we change stock capacitive sensors to inductive one which solve issues with the first layer then we upgraded z-axis with anti backlash leadscrew to improve z axis alignment and now in this video we're going to upgrade the stock cooling fans and install some ultra quiet knock to offense stay tuned for those who keep their 3d printers on the desk in a close by knows that we D printers are usually quite noisy some printers has a high ecstatic pitch sound that comes from stepper motors and drivers and some has that humming noise that comes from the cooling fans even that co tennis pro has a silent stepper drivers and models there is still a bunch of humming noise that comes from the control box in the bottom frame where the all electronics are noise level that comes from the cooling fans on may see a tennis pro on the stand by our 53 decibel and when the power supply kicks in noise level can go up to 62 decibel which can be too loud for some people especially if they are sitting directly next to the printer now in order to lower that fan noise I open the boring case for Monsieur tennis pro and I found that we need to replace three fans there are two 24 volt fans one close to the motherboard which is the same turbo fan like the filament cooling fan on the X Charat and one 24 volt fan on the back of the case size 40 by 20 millimeters and there is a fan in a power supply this one is a 40 by 20 millimeters the same size like the fan on the back of the case but it runs on 12 volt now cooling fans on the power supply and on the back of the case are another problem since their regular size and type but this one here on the board is a bit tricky since we need some kind of adapter or brackets to be able to install a regular cooling fan on it after quick search on the ting givers website I found this adapter created by Enders 3d thank you very much which will allow us to use the regular 40 millimeter fan instead of the store-bought type cooling fan after I download this model I load it in a simplified 3d and I slice it player hype Darius was 0.2 millimeter and in 5 was 50% I use a printer Pro ptg filament but you can use PLA as well since I made a video about how to change and install inductive sensor on the sear tennis pro I got a lot of questions about the glass plate and can it be used with inductive sensor and the answer is yes inductive sensor will work with a glass plate but only with a thinner ones for example I use 2 millimeter thick glass plate and I have around 1.3 millimeter clearance and it works just fine alright print came out very nice and now let's check our new cooling fans I chose this lock to a premium cooling fans which should be very quiet noise level on these fans are rated at less than 20 decibel for example 10 millimeter one is rated at 218 decibel at 4500 rpm and the 20 millimeter one are rated at 15 decibel at 5000 rpm which is amazing since I never use or test noctua fans before I gotta say that I'm excited with this premium quality cooling fans you will also get all kinds of accessories including extension cable low noise adapter join adapter set without soldering screws anti vibration rubber pads even signature from the CEO much more than we actually need for this application alright let's install them first what you're gonna do is to turn off your printer or even better unplug power cord now on the each side of the printer there are two screws undo them with a Philly screwdriver all the electrical then place the printer on the side underneath the printer there are 13 screws who holds bottom plate undo these screws as well when you finish with the screws carefully remove bottom plate now we have access to electronic components first we're gonna replace fan on the power supply there are two screws on the left side three screws on the right side and one on the top of the power supply next the fan now to be able to access that screw next to the fan you to undo four more allen screws that holds poor supply in the place they are located outside of the case under the heated bed when you remove all screws slide the power supply car now we have access to the power supply cooling fan you can see where it's connected to the motherboard there is a two screws on the fan remove them and take out stock cooling fan here we have a stock 12-volt cooling fan and our new silent 12-volt fan even though these fans are the same in a terms of size and dimensions stock power supply cooling fan spins at 10,000 rpm compared to the knocked a fan who spins at 5,000 rpm which means that the stock cooling fan on the power supply has the higher airflow now I already test how much amps whole system is pulling from the power supply and I found that we are pulling around 13 amps with a maximum temperature on the heated bed and 15 amps total with all electronics on board and the power supply is rated at 21mpg watt which means that we are pulling 6 amps LS or 140 watt less from the maximum rated power so I think that changing the stock cooling fan on the power supply which are a new cooling fan with a lower airflow will not make too much of a difference in our application but to be sure I will test later this power supply under the full load and with my thermal camera to see how much hot it gets now in a box with a fan accessories there is this join adapter set that we can use so there is no need for soldering first I stripe some of this wire heat shrink to get more longer wires then I cut both wires with the cutters I place red wire from the fan and the red wire from the connector inside of the donor adapter and I squeeze them with the pliers which makes a solid connection then I did the other side done now we can plug in our new fan sensor any wires are much longer I use some white strip to hold them all in the place nice and organized I take screws that comes with a new fan in a box and then I install the new fan in a place they attend to here on the fan orientation fans should blow air out of the power supply after I put back these two fan screws I place metal cover back on the power supply then I put back all the screws and it was done now the motherboard fan take out these two Allen screws and attach 40 by 10 millimeter fan on the printed adapter and use the same screws that you just take out again pay attention fan orientation fan should blow air on the motherboard now put adapter in the place and screw it with some m3 screws on one screw you need a washer on the other you don't now stripe glue on the fan connector on the motherboard and remove all fan done now located cooling fan on the back of the case it's holding with two Allen screws remove screws and take out the old fan and cut the fan wire this fire later we can use to our both of our new cooling fans now install the new nock to a fan on the back of the case again keep an eye on the fan orientation fan should blow air out from the case you can reuse the same screws but you will need two small m3 Watchers because screws are too long and the last cooling fan are now installed now we need to wire them sensor new cooling fan are running on 12 volt and the old stock fans was running on 24 volt we need to lower the voltage from 24 to 12 volt otherwise the new fans will burn out there are a few options that we can use we can use some cheap DC buck converter to lower voltage from 24 to 12 volt for example this one or maybe this smaller one but that will require much more work including soldering heat rings 3m tape place where we're going to put this back on motors and we need to adjust them after with a multimeter and so on so this upgrade will get more complicated and I'm trying to get as simple as possible so I will not use this buck converters instead I will just wire these fans in a serial connection and that will divide 24 volt by two and each fan will get 12 volt it's simple as that to make it easier to understand I made this drawing illustration which represent serial connection for two 12-volt fans so if you look here the main positive wire from the 24 volt power supply we're going to connect to the positive wire on the first cooling fan then main negative wire from the power supply we're gonna connect to the negative wire on the second cooling fan and finally we're going to connect negative wire of the first fan to the positive wire of the second fan this is called a serial connection and it will divide 24 and each fan will see only 12 volt and that's exactly what we are looking for there is no worry or danger with this type of wiring and if you accidentally plug off one fan you will just break cellular connection and the other fan will just stop it and that's it when you reconnect them back both fan will start to spin this is how the serial connection looks on our project I reused the power wire from the case van and I made serial connection from adapters that I got in a box with a knock to offense then I place the new case fan wire next to the stepper motor wire from the first van goes here to this extension cable right here and now we just need to plug both fans on these connectors and we are done this is how the wiring looks like I use some cable ties to secure wires and to keep them organized everything looks nice and snug and now the moment of truth is here let's switch on the printer and test our new silent cooling fans now right they are both working and spinning we get around 42 decibel on open case which is 10 decibel lower than before now let's check the voltage on the power supply and then we're gonna check how much voltage each fan gets since these fans are not identical I suspect they don't have exactly the same internal resistance and the voltage may be different between these fans on the power supply we get 24 volt case fan gets 11 point 3 volt which is good but the first one are getting 12 point 6 volt which is still fine for this cooling fan and it's a voltage range but I'm not satisfied I want lower voltage so I use this low noise adapter from the box and now I'm getting 11 point 14 volts on this first fan much bell and on the second fan I'm getting close to 10 volts nice now I'm satisfied and I will leave it like this and now some stress test I set hill by temperature to 110 degrees which is the maximum and I place the clamps amp meter to monitor the power supply and I will look on my thermal camera for any heat signature after a while the temperature on the power supply where the MOSFETs are was not going over 40 degrees power supply top cover was only 35 degrees and the motherboard was 37 degrees everything was nice and cool except the heat bed solid-state relay who has the huge heat signature on my thermal camera it could be only temporarily because we drained so much to heat up this heated bed to 110 degrees so it might get cooler later on since now it only needs to maintain this temperature so the amp drain is not constant no more but let's leave it like this for one more hour all right one hour is passed let's check it again well now it's even more hotter than before now it gets seven two degrees from the side not good you cannot even touch it for more than one seconds and here is why the solid state relay it's hanging in the air basically the spacer keeps it around seven millimeter away from the middle case and the solid state relay has this metal backside and it should be attached to some heatsink or some metal case which will work as a heatsink and dissipate that heat away from the solid relay since there is this aluminum extrusion next to the solid state relay I will use these two t8 nut and I will attach this solid relay directly to this aluminum extrusion which will work as a huge heatsink and hopefully it will dissipate at least some of that heat to the frame to attach it to the aluminum extrusion you can reuse the same screws alright let's test it again we reach hunger and ten degrees again and check it out now I knew he think is working and most of that heat are now being transferred to the metal extrusions very nice by the way power supply is still cold yes I can feel that aluminum extrusions are worn to the touch and now I can hold my fingers on the solid state relay without a problem even from the back nice you know I'm gonna keep it like this now it's time to pull back bottom frame and all screws and we are done and now our final noise test so before the noise level of the standby was 53 decibel and now it's 44 so we have a nine decibel noise reduction on the standby very nice when power supply kicks in the noise level before over 63 decibel and now it's only 46 that is the 17 decibel noise reduction under the load which is amazing this printer is so much quieter now and I'm very impressed with this Noctua cooling fans they definitely worth the money all right guys I hope that you liked this video and that you find it useful all the links you can find are in the video description thanks for watching and as you next time bye-bye you

Channel: Nexi Tech

Views: 131,959

Rating: 4.9418344 out of 5

Keywords: cr10s pro 3d printer, cr10s, ender5, tutorial, noctua, upgrade your 3d printer, powersupply, cr10, silent your 3d printer, install, NF-A4x10, 3d printer, ender3, motherboard, fans, steb by step, NF-A4x20, noise, creality cr10s pro 3d printer review, cr10s pro upgrades, cr10s pro fans upgrade, cr10s pro review, 3d printer review, nexitech, cr10s pro, 3d print, 3d printed, creality cr10s pro 3d printer, db, meter, upgrades, mods, modifications

Id: lde-SSY4vtw

Length: 16min 35sec (995 seconds)

Published: Thu Mar 28 2019