Chrysler Hemi 5.7 Engine Rebuild Continues Top End // 300C Episode 4

back again and we're going to pick up right where we left off in our last video we're going to start with reassembling the rest of this engine and this time it's going right back in that car stay tuned so the next thing we're going to do here is i'm going to go ahead and reinstall the timing cover on this thing and i don't want to snug it down yet i want to go ahead and leave the bolts a little bit loose because i want to make sure the flange on the bottom where it meets the oil pan is as flat as it could possibly be before i tighten everything down you know what help is if i actually installed a new timing pump or timing cover gasket in this thing before installing it okay there we go new seal installed now let's put this on all right got ourselves a brand new water pump all right so we've got our timing cover back on we've got the new water pump on time to start putting on our cylinder heads so you want to make sure your dowel pins are in place sometimes they will come out with the old cylinder head like mine did a little tap there install your head gasket these are of course a multi-layer steel design i like to use factory parts for this sort of thing so i don't even have to think about it i know it's good quality and they are marked top and also over here cylinders one three five and seven so you know for a fact you're putting it on the correct side slipped on nicely didn't it so chrysler is clear that you can in fact reuse your head bolts what you have to do is visually inspect them make sure that they're not stretched in any way if not you can use them no [Music] problem all right so the torque sequence for these things the head bolts the main head bolts are 25 pounds 40 pounds and then turn 90 degrees from experience it should generally end up in the area of 100 foot-pounds but we'll find out [Music] so the last step is a torque to angle which is 90 degrees now it's kind of nice because it's not some like super oddball number like 77 degrees so i have an angle style torque meter here but or torque wrench but you don't have to have one because 90 degrees you can kind of keep that in your head okay if i start here i gotta end here that kind of thing so it's not too bad that way in the car obviously it's a bit more difficult to get one full sweep because you're in a tight confine so that is nice to actually have the torque the angle torque wrench at that point but again as long as you can kind of keep track of it in your mind and like i said you should end up somewhere around 100 foot pounds on these things let's start it off and see where we end up oh look at that 100.7 what do you know 100.9 all right they're not usually that close [Music] but these upper bolts get torqued down to 25 foot pounds [Music] [Music] okay so cylinder heads are back on and all torqued down time to put the rocker assemblies and push rods back in you'll have noticed when you were pulling the push rods out that there was a long one and a short one the long one goes for the exhaust valve the short one goes to the intake valve [Music] so the nice thing about these intake rocker assemblies is that they're actually marked with an eye so for intake so you can't actually mix them up a little finicky to put these things back in because you have to actually spin the rocker arms around to match up which can be a bit of a pain in the butt there we go the tricky part here is that you have to make sure that all of the all the push rods are actually seated in the rocker arm assemblies and this can be a little bit tough because obviously they're all at different lengths currently so you need to start with the highest one first and then just as you go continue to make sure that they're actually seated [Applause] try to tighten these as evenly as you can because you will see it will flex a little bit always always always go back through once you've got these on and double check your push rods make sure it's fully seated in the rocker housing because if not you're going to get a misfire and you have to take it all back apart again and it's very easy to make it look like they're actually fully seated when in fact it's cocked up a little bit on one side so always go back and double check that make sure all these are fully seated these rocker arm bolts are torqued to 16 foot-pounds [Applause] the exhaust ones fall into place a little bit easier than the intake side and it's much easier to verify that the push rod is fully seated as well [Applause] all right rocker arms are on now it's time for the valve cover all right so the new valve cover seal is installed so now we can reinstall the valve cover itself the only note i'm going to say about the valve covers installing them is that if you are working on the vehicle with the engine still in there and you're trying to remove the valve cover and put it back on more specifically dealing with the trucks is that it's very easy to roll the valve cover seal on this back edge because it's a really tight fit between the firewall and the valve cover so taking it off you'll have to kind of fight to get it out but going back on trying to get over the rocker stands it can be very very easy to roll that seal back there and then you'll have an oil leak that drips directly onto your exhaust and makes a nice burny smoky mess the cars like this the challengers the 300s not that big of a deal it's a lot more room you can fit it in there but it's just one thing to look out for when working on the hemi engine go ahead and just snug these bolts they do not need to be crazy tight so do not keep cranking on them because they will snap [Music] all right all these spark plugs going in quick tip on these when you get them i don't care where you get them from try to inspect them and see the electrode make sure it's not smashed down or something it always can happen that somebody drops the box of these spark plugs and this electrode gets smashed down and then you'll have a misfire and you didn't notice because you just drop it right in the hole so check them out beforehand but yeah get these in [Music] my advice when tightening down these coil packs go very very easy these are just brass inserts these things are not going to come flying off of here okay so when you spin them down don't do them tight at all [Music] so the final piece to the puzzle just arrived we finally got our oil pan gasket now we can put our oil pan back on as you can see we got almost the entire engine reassembled ready to go the oil pan was kind of the last piece once we do that we can put this thing back on the cherry picker reinstall the flex plate and then we can reinstall this engine you can see that the pan gasket on these things is a combination of a windage tray and the pan gasket which is bonded to it you don't really need silicone here except for the areas where different flanges meet up from both the rear main seal housing and the front timing cover and that the only reason that you want the silicone there is to account for any sort of a height difference between the two surfaces so a little bit of silicone here here here here gasket goes on oil pickup goes on pan goes on [Music] when you're starting to reinstall the oil pan you want to go very lightly install some of the bolts don't cinch them down at all just run them in a little ways that way you can start to get all of the fasteners in do not tighten down any of the bolts until you have all of the fasteners in place because invariably if you start to tighten down this corner or this corner first one of these other bolts will not line up and it is very very easy to strip these bolts because there's they're not very strong they're very small so just save yourself the trouble do not tighten any of these bolts until you have all of them started and then tighten them down [Music] now i'm going to go through and double check all of them by hand so our last component to install here is the crankshaft damper assembly there is no keyway in here it is simply a press fit so let's slip it on there pretty much square it up as best you can what we're going to do is we're going to tap it on with a hammer until we can get at least four or five threads with the crankshaft bolt once we do that we can use the bolt itself to draw in the crankshaft damper yeah many people say that that's not the correct way to do it you should just press it all the way on with the tool well guess what it works just fine as long as you get at least four or five threads on the bolt if you can only get one and a half or two threads yeah you're probably going to strip the bolt or the crankshaft not a great idea so go ahead and tap it on as far as you can with a hammer just keep it square and then stick that bolt in there and run it in this one's going on very nicely so this should draw in very well i like to use a smaller impact gun to draw it on because the half inch guns you do run the risk of snapping the bolt clean off especially if you're using some beasts of a milwaukee like i have or an air powered one stick with a three-eighths impact generally they won't have enough um they'll be able to draw it in but they won't have enough to break the bolt you will know when the damper is fully seated because the tone will suddenly change with the impact i don't know if you'll be able to hear this but that's a different noise than it was when i was actually drawing it in the the tone will change very subtly and then you'll know that this thing is fully seated again i love the the 3 8 because it has enough strength to draw it in but once it seats it just stops it's as far as it's going to go it's not going to keep racking on it like a half inch gun will all right the engine is all set let's move on so real quick before we reinstall this engine i just wanted to tell you a kind of a funny story that happened to me about six or seven years ago i was working at a dodge dealership and i was working on a cop car because as usual the cop cars are the ones that have the most cam lifter problems so that's what i was doing i was doing a cam lifter job so of course i had the heads off of it and when you pull the heads on the hemi especially the cars the trucks it doesn't really matter but the cars especially it's really bad access to the exhaust manifold bolts so you just pull the head with the exhaust manifold don't bother taking it off so you pull the head with it on there you put it right back on with it on there don't take this thing off if you don't have to don't give yourself extra work right so i did i put it all back together again torqued the head down had everything all buttoned up and then i raised the vehicle because the very last thing you do is go underneath tighten the exhaust back up and plug in your o2 sensors so i got that all hooked up very last thing i'm looking for the o2 sensor plug and i'm like where's where's the upper o2 sensor where's where's the plug at i get my flashlight out and all i can see is the wires from the o2 sensor going directly between the cylinder head and the engine block what had happened was as i was putting the head back on the plug managed to find its way into the rear most cylinder here and the piston must have been down in the travel because it it slipped in there i felt no resistance when i put the head on it went right on the dowels everything felt good to go but here i am staring at these wires just going directly into the engine block yeah kind of makes for a tough day although i do think i set a record for taking the head back off uh but of course i had to put a new o2 sensor on there got everything all back together i don't think it would happen to anybody else but it was just kind of a funny thing that happened to me so always be cognizant of where your o2 sensor plugs are when you're reinstalling a cylinder head well these engines get real wide real fast don't they here we are fully assembled again we have our new motor mount on the driver's side all new gaskets and seals new cylinder head new piston in there the block is honed we got new spark plugs in there all new seals for the valve cover gaskets we have new intake seals new water pump on there so new oil pan gasket new rear main seal everything cleaned i think it's ready to go let's do it let's put it back in two things to remember before you put it back on one make sure you reinstall your engine plate on the back very important that you do that and also when putting your flex plate back on make sure you re-lock tight all of the flywheel bolts you do not want these things backing out on you these bolts are 17 millimeter and they get torqued down to 55 foot pounds this job is always better if you have someone else willing to help you with it but you can go at it solo like i am having to do today [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] yeah that one made me sweaty all right i think that's it for this episode the engine is back in it's resting on the frame rails now you just have to reconnect absolutely everything but you'll see that in the next episode we'll see you next time on reignited

Channel: Reignited - Cycle and Automotive

Views: 59,379

Rating: 4.9295645 out of 5

Keywords: Engine rebuild, engine rebuild time lapse, engine rebuild asmr, engine rebuild for beginners, engine rebuild explained, Hemi, 5.7, mopar, chrysler, ram, dodge, jeep, engine reassembly, engine, reassemble, rebuild, engine rebuild, top end, cylinder head install, engine repair, 300, 300C, engine install, Repair

Id: X3J0YuVLfCA

Length: 18min 36sec (1116 seconds)

Published: Mon Oct 26 2020