Cheap Engine Rebuild - Prepping the Block | Scrapstang

all right this one's going to get a lot of people mad but we're going to do it anyway what's going on everybody welcome back to another episode here at the stable the last time we were here we cracked open the rotating assembly of the marketplace 302 and found some pretty worn bearings so therefore that calls for an engine rebuild and for those of you that keep up with the channel you'll know that that's exactly what I did not want to do but uh here we are all of the rod bearings were showing pretty good signs of wear and tear 90% of the main bearings looked good besides the thrust bearing that had a lot lot of signs of wear as well as some scoring but overall not terrible but before we get into that we have some packages to unbox huh keep your gift a surprise unwrap your present before opening this envelope okay guys what did you send this looks kind of cool I love this gift wrapping this looks this makes it feel special yeah nice a first aid it be safe keep this kit in your garage or your car but it's a good idea to have one oh ah 110 characters left better use them all I'd hate for all this space to go to waste okay I'm going to get some coffee now from demon view LLC okay I know who this is from now honestly I wish I would have opened this yesterday because me and a piston ring got into it yesterday and I promised this is worse than it looks and I obviously just wrapped it in one of these blue towels and some tape I am going to put a Band-Aid on right now because I keep on reopening this cut huge thanks to demon view now let's open this next one oh nice I know what this is how freaking sick for those of you who remember our T5 ended up having a broken counter shaft which was about $200 to replace our good friend Anthony reached out and said he had an extra counter shaft for us to use so not only did he send us the counter shaft for free and on top of that he also sent us an extra input shaft as well as a shifter the input shaft I'll get into why we need this in another video it involves the other T5 though so Anthony just made the stuff we have to do with the transmission 10 times easier and 10 times cheaper and not only did he send all of these parts but he didn't even want to charge us for shipping so why don't we give a big thumbs up to Anthony because he helped us out a ton all right and the next package I've already opened because it has to do with our engine rebuild for our rebuild we're going to be using three different new parts one of them being a set of rod bearings these are a set of cite rod bearings being 10 undersized next up we have our main bearings which are also 10 undersized these larger ones being the thrust bearings which is what went bad on ours and last but not least we have a set of piston rings I've already opened these for the sake of uh curiosity um and uh sliced finger but we have a set of sealed power 40 over piston rings top rings are a Molly faced ring middle ones are just cast iron I believe and last but not least we have our oil retain paining Rings this episode would literally not be possible without the help of the Catman and Robert Lugo as soon as the last engine video went out and we discovered the bad bearings Robert Lugo and the Catman both reached out and said how can I help and lo and behold now we have new crank and rod bearings as well as new piston rings I can't thank you guys enough and I hope to make you guys proud let's get this engine rebuilt all right was filming for about 20 minutes without any of the mics on guess I was laughing by myself when I dropped the lifter into the oil let's let's continue with audio this time anyway the cam does not look terrible there is no like scoring or anything weird going on I did have a buddy offered to sponsor a cam I believe that cam from the listing if we should even believe anything from the listing anymore is an e303 cam which is not the most aggressive cam what do you guys think though should we throw a cam in here and have a nice chop oh we should also inspect the cam bearings and for those of you who didn't know the cam shaft does have bearings if you look in between the cylinders you'll see these guys right here we have 1 two 3 four five I remember the last time I built the 289 the Machine Shop said I needed new cam bearings and I remember thinking what are you talking about the doesn't have bearings but uh they do so let's inspect them kind of hard to show you guys but overall they don't look too bad I would say that most of the wear and tear that you see on cam bearings are from the install and removal of them because you're trying to remove a 2ft metal piece with not a lot of Leverage so you end up banging these up pretty good but once again I would say these are good to run before we can start any of the reassembly we're going to clean up this block the best that we can I'm scraping away from the internals of the block that way I don't drop any extra stuff in there that I might not catch later this is coming off better than I thought that gasket came off easier than I thought it would let's see if we can say the same about the head gaskets before I start scraping away at the gasket I'm going to plug the oil holes or the oil valleys so I don't get any crap in there that I probably won't be able to get out later there's only really two of them that we need to worry about it is this corner up here and this corner up here these are blind holes they don't lead anywhere for the bolts and these are all coolant passages so uh we'll clean those out later in a different way and then these bolt holes on the bottom also go to the cooling passages so we're not going to worry about those right now but you can see this textured uh gasket material right here that's the residue of whatever the the head gasket left so we're going to try to clean it the best that we can without scoring the surface of the block here I'm going to switch to a fresh razor blade which already seems to be working much easier all right with the deck of the block mostly cleaned we're just going to give it a quick all right this one's going to get a lot of people mad but we're going to do it anyway we're going to hit the deck of the block with some 400 grit sandpaper no this is not resurfacing the deck like a machine would but we don't have a machine so the 400 grit is light enough where it'll just clean the surface but it's not going to take away much material I'm also not using any pressure I'm just letting the straightness of the block take care of it so like I said we did almost nothing to the block We just cleaned up the minor imperfections that there were and a little bit of the gasket that was left so you can see right here we did not make this surface completely shiny or sand away a a whole top layer of this deck you can still see the outline of the previous gasket but now we just have a clean surface and that's exactly what we were looking for now we can do the other side guys once again this is not resurfacing the deck this is just to clean the surface if I wanted to resurface the deck I I mean you could either take it to the machine shop or you could hit it with like some 120 grit to 220 all the way to like 400 which I've seen a bunch of people do and I have done myself on a motorcycle engine before and it worked perfectly fine anyway doing this also gives us a good idea of the condition of the deck as you can see there's a straight line here and another straight line here and another straight line here which are high spots it could or could not be with intolerances we'll find that out later but right now we're just cleaning it I'm actually going to crack open the door now because all this Parts cleaner is starting to make uh my mouth taste like coins another really important step before we reassemble this block is we have to clean up all of the head bolt threads and to do that I'm going to use a thread chaser or a thread restorer set which is a bit different from a tap and die set these ones are much less aggressive than these so since we're just cleaning and not redoing threads this is our best option going to fill these up with the parts cleaner so they can soak and these threads weren't that bad they were more just oily than anything but the reason why it's so important to have these thread holes clean is if they are dirty filled with oil or Gunk it's going to be hard to get an accurate torque reading when we do our torque sequence on the heads therefore the head might not be torqued down right cause further problems yada yada yada then we hit him with the shot of air right here you can see the gunk that it pulls out of the threads these bottom headbolt threads go into the coolant passages so there is no way I can fill them up like we did up here so we're just going to spray them chase them and then spray them once again and I am putting a bit of resistance um side to side and uh kind of just being a little bit aggressive with this I'm twisting it a couple times and then moving a thread down twisting it back and forth then moving a thread down this one's the first one that's given me any type of resistance so this one can't exactly be done by hand so let's give it a little bit of encouragement so now that it goes in and out with no resistance by hand I know that it's clean enough I've already gone ahead and cleaned up the other side of the headbolt threads as well as cleaned up the coolant passages and the way that I cleaned up the coolant passages I basically just flipped the engine over and blew some compressed air into the coolant passages where was a whole lot of these chunky little rust pieces that kind of just break apart so we are almost done with cleaning this block but but we still have to take care of this nasty lifter Valley right here it has a bunch of crud all up inside it and to prevent all that stuff from flowing back into the engine I'm going to turn it over almost at a 45° I also have the oil pan sitting under it so now we're just going to blast it at this point I'm also going to start shooting all the oil passages I see with some Parts cleaner to get everything cleared out all righty the valley is now clean and dry rid of all the goo and the shoo there's one more thing we need to do before we start reassembly in order for our new piston rings to seal properly we have to hone each one of the cylinders which I'm sure most of you know what that is but for those of you who don't this is a cylinder honing tool which is basically three stones that have a certain Brit to them that will go into the cylinders and uh basically deglaze the cylinder walls to get a new crosshatch going but before we can even start that let's clean up these cylinders because we've done a whole lot of degreasing and air compression so there's probably some shoo in here I've honestly never noticed that brake cleaner smells like AV gas 100 low lead so I know it's hard to see here but inside the Piston you can see this wall is very very shiny but towards the bottom of the cylinder you can see this area about an inch in length where it's just dull and that is because the Piston does not go all the way down there so the Piston never made contact with any of that area that's dull and that dull area is from the previous hone I've kept the door open because it's a pretty nice day I know a lot of you in Canada are very jealous right now but anyway I have uh 1030 oil here and I'm just going to drill a small hole in the cap this is why I put the hole glazed the cylinder walls with the oil I'm also going to oil the stones oh those things absorb the oil really quick all right we've got it attached to our drill all right add a little bit more oil okay so taking a look at the cylinder walls we can see the cross or the new cross hatching going on I probably could have bit used a bit more angle so more speed in and out to get a more uh um aggressive angle rather than these that are kind of linear so we're going to go ahead and clean it up look at it and then do it again we're going to hit it one more time with a little bit increase in the in andout speed so we could get a more aggressive angle obviously not going to get it right the first time but starting with this cylinder we could get a good idea on how to do the rest of them okay so right here you can see the differences between this cylinder and a cylinder that hasn't been done yet it is still shiny I haven't seen any low spots on the cylinder yet but that brings me to my next point Thank you to everybody who has helped out and gave us their inputs on how we can do the best job we can here with that being said yes I know that taking it to a machine shop and having them rebor the engine or check for roundness and check for clearances would yield the best results but that is just not within our budget here if we had a Bard gaug and micrometers of course we would do it we're going to do our best with what we have to get this engine back together let's see what result we get once again I do appreciate everybody's input I know you guys just want to see me build this engine to the best potential that we can but like the Catman said unless you guys are sending parts or pitching in for the machine work it's going to be what it's going to be once again this honing process is not to bore out the engine so we don't want to remove any material really we just want to deglaze the engine so we can get rid of that shininess is probably the simplest way to put it it's just to make sure the Rings feel at home add a little bit more weay and all right I do like this cross-hatch a little bit better than the first one as you can see we have more of an angle rather than it being um in parallel with the engine deck so it points more up and down I like it with each time we do this we're basically going to perfect uh the speed of the drill as well as the the in andout speed um so by the time we hit the other cylinders we should have a pretty good idea on what we need to do and one thing that a lot of people don't know or just might miss is that these stones have different grits and every ring has a different honing grit that they need so cast iron Rings need like 220 is Molly Rings need a little bit higher grit maybe like 280 is and um so on and so forth so if you're doing this make sure you have the right grip for the rings that you're using all right so I have this entire Bank done with the honing cylinder number four did have a dark spot towards the top of the cylinder right here uh that means that the stone was not making contact with this area right here we got a pretty good hatch on everywhere else in the cylinder I could keep going with the hone until I get this dark spot right here but then by that time I would already have worn off a ton of material everywhere else in the cylinder I can live with that we're not going to take off too much material and over bore this engine save your comment yes a machine shop would be able to bore that perfectly keep in mind that this block is already barded 40 over so it's already on its last legs I don't want to take it to 60 we take it to 60 and these cylinder WS are going to start getting too thin causing overheating issues and so on ideally I would like an engine to be Max at 30 overb 40 overbo is already not what I expected the engine was listed at 30 overboard but whatever I do have an oil pan under here collecting all the residue and runoff that's uh falling off of the block you can see the new cross-hatch pattern that we got going on here I'm going to hit it one more time just to see if we could get rid of this uh dark spot right here but like the other C if we can't get it out within two passes we're just going to leave it and move on all right now you can see all the cylinders have this dull finish to them and my hand has also lost all of its feeling it would probably be easier if I had a constant speed drill but this one is variable so it just depends on how much I uh press the trigger so trying to keep it pressed in the same location for all eight cylinders was uh pretty tiring but anyway the block is pretty much ready to accept all the new parts all right in order to stay organized I'm going to lay out all the Rings before we measure the gaps so we have all of our Rings laid out here our top ring second ring and our oil rings this one is a threepiece one with a coil in the middle and these two pieces um on either side of that coil so at this point I want to check the end gap of the piston rings which is this Gap right here once this ring is in the cylinder I did specifically order these for a 40 overb cylinder size but we're going to recheck them just to be sure but of course these Rings didn't come with a gap chart so we're going to have to figure it out on our own using a simple equation it would be our bore size time .45 would give us our piston ring end Gap so we know our bore size is 40 over and from the factory these came with a 4in cylinder B so we have 4.04 * .45 = 018 so that's our recommended Gap and if you're wondering how we know our bore size without a bore gauge we grab one of the Pistons and the Piston itself will tell us right here it is 04 oversized and that equation is just for the top ring some people will argue that the top ring and the second ring should have the same end Gap but we're going to follow the Gap chart that we found online which shows we should have a difference from the top ring and second ring not by much it's just 0 .5 compared to .45 so our end Gap is 4.04 * .5 equals 0.202 so now we have our end gaps for the top ring as well as the bottom ring all right so now at our cylinder we have our top ring right here and now we can start checking the actual end Gap trying not to score the surfaces and since we don't have a ring squaring tool we're going to use an old piston to push it Square all right so the piston ring is now in and it's squared with the surface and you can see how small our end Gap really is right here and to measure it we're going to be using some feeler gauges and once again this top ring should be around 18 so that one fits pretty easy I'm going to move on to 19,000 and see how that feels so 19000s looks like it's struggling to to go in so this ring looks like it fits comfortably at 18 but say the Gap was 20 um we can't really add more material on here so that's pretty much what we get let's say the ring Gap was 16 instead we could get a ring Filer and open that Gap um just a tad to get it up to 18 but I'm comfortable with this top ring fitment so let's go ahead and try the second ring second ring should be slightly bigger on the Gap let's see what we get here clears 18 clears 19 20 starting to get pretty snug let's see if it'll accept 22 nope does not accept 22 so ring gap on the second ring measures right at 20 and if you remember our calculation 20 is right where we want it to be so I'm going to recheck all of these while noting what the end gaps are on all of them all right all of our rings have now been sized and double checked all of them were with intolerances besides one of them which was the number six cylinder the top ring was reading at 19 while the second ring was reading at 18 and if you remember our equation our second ring is supposed to be slightly bigger than our top ring but on cylinder number six it was the other way around our top ring was slightly bigger than our second ring top ring reading at 19 while the second ring was reading at 18 so I went ahead and filed it down a bit and got it to 20 so that was the only thing that was of concern that needed a change cylinder 1 was basically perfect reading at 18 for the top ring and 20 for the second ring if we look at cylinder number two however the top one was good at 18 but the second one was at 19 I could file it down to get it up to 20 but it could also be a variation within the cylinder walls so I'm not going to mess with it I'm pretty comfortable with that if we take a look at cylinder 456 and 7 the top ring was reading at 19 and that we can't do anything about because we can't make that Gap any smaller but it's 1,000's difference not a very big deal I haven't measured any of these oil rings these don't see that much heat so the tolerances are a bit looser with that taken care of I'm going to put a light layer of oil on all of the cylinder walls to prevent any surface rust and now we can bag this engine because we are now out of time for this episode but we have the engine fully prepped and ready for reassembly I know we're going to get a couple comments saying that this is not the best way that it could be done but with the tools and the budget we have I feel we did a pretty damn good job anyway we will continue the reassembly in the next video thank you guys for watching and I will see you on the next one

Channel: Rookie Pilot

Views: 2,553

Keywords: 1966, 1965, 1966 mustang, restoration, satisfying, QA1MOTORSPORTS, qa1, shocks, mustang ii, ifs, speedway, race car, CG, Center of Gravity, weight and balance, weight distribution, relocating engine, DIY, transmission crossmember, D window wheels, 16x8, 225/50 16r, Amazon, Cheap, Budget, Driveshaft, Drivetrain, Patch Panel, Rust, 302, Facebook, marketplace, Engine, crankshaft, main bearings, rod bearings, camshaft, internals, Honing Cylinder, Rebuild, Ring End Gap, Piston Rings

Id: grQlFdM_Vsw

Length: 24min 0sec (1440 seconds)

Published: Sun Feb 25 2024