2019 Ford F-150 3.5L Ecoboost MAJOR ENGINE FAILURE! Full Teardown W/

you would think that with the sheer volume of blown up EcoBoost engines I've torn down on this channel that I would have covered all of them but that simply isn't the case so I went out of my way to scratch another one off the list and today we're going to tear down a second generation 3.5 L Ecoboost V6 out of a 2019 F-150 now I know this is going to be a huge let down but I would be lying if I told you the miles on this engine because I simply don't know there's too many hands too many steps in the process cess for me to get this particular engine for me to find out the miles I don't know there's no VIN number on the engine a lot of Hondas and a lot of Korean engines have the VIN number on them I can do a Carfax and then I can give you a close estimate but in this case it's a four or 5-year-old engine that's my best guess so if you figure average miles 15 to 20,000 m a year this has what 880,000 mil 90 maybe 100,000 but it could be an exception I've seen lots of super high mileage three and fouryear old vehicles and we simply don't know when I say second generation that means this is the second iteration of the 3.5 L EcoBoost first generation 2011 through 2017 second gen came out in 2018 these engines make 375 horsepower and 470 ft-lbs of torque it's a lot of power out of the V6 turbos are not that's a lot of power and I have heard that Ford fixed a lot of the issues that the first generation had on these engines but I've also heard that these engines can still fail obviously this one is on the stand for a reason and they're also really expensive and usually that's for a reason another thing I don't know about this engine is what's wrong with it or if it turns over obviously I have some idea that it turns over because the flex plate did not have a torque converter on it still so I think it's going to turn over but we don't know that doesn't feel good that's a lot of lot of pressure not compression tight oo that's tight that takes a lot of force and it these aren't that high of compression see if I can feel anything loose in here uhoh Rodney is that you have you left the next thing I'd like to do is pull the plugs first we have to pull the coils what kind of magic sauce is the first thing I noticed the spark plugs have a painted tip which means these are likely the original spark plugs from this engine I think the factory interval suggest 100,000 Mi although a lot of people changed them before that and the plugs don't look great pretty dark and dingy uh but they're not bent and they all look the same which means that the likelihood of some malice in the combustion Palace is pretty low that doesn't mean it can't happen it just means that uh we'll have to dig a Little Deeper before we find problems now I'm going to take a minute and remove the wiring harness from this engine and the harness is off next we'll pull the upper intake manifold well that was simple as you can see the intake manifold bolts to the valve covers valve covers have intake ports on them much like the same generation 27 so the next next thing we're going to do is remove the high pressure fuel pump we'll have to pull this line off then we can get the valve covers off May we'll take it off over here ooh that had some pressure in it still oh we're leaking fuel oh that was a straight gas now we can pull the pump pumps off next we'll start with this valve covers the right hand side I'm not sure if that's all of them but I think that is uh something has happened in here somebody's been in here monking around the very first thing I noticed improper tool marks on the cam shafts there's not a place to to put anything here why would you do this there is however a place to put a wrench here which there's also some Marks here but they're not as bad as this looks like somebody used a pair of channel locks I don't why would you work on a vehicle this way and aside from that I don't really see anything too terrible all the Rockers are in place chain seems to have decent tension the phasers which never ever ever fail I'm kidding those look to be intact at least from what I can tell now we're moving on to the left side first thing I need to do is pull a dip stick it's pretty easy when there on a tube looks dry to me now I need to remove this engine hook and now I can remove the valve cover oh we have a signature from the same amateur mechanic on the cam shafts on this bank I just don't know why that was the area of the cam you want to grab when this is clearly clearly where you put a tool to hold them just tells us that this has been into before which is not a surprise and I wonder if it was to replace these phasers one major advantage to the the second generation 3.5 L EcoBoost is the addition of port injection it keeps the intake ports the intake valves a lot cleaner than if it were just direct injected however I can't really show you what the intake valves look like because of the angle of the ports really don't lend themselves to being able to see down them with a camera I'm sorry guys wish there was another way one thing I am going to do is remove the variable valve timing solenoids because a lot of times if there's metal in the oiling system these will pick it up so when I first pulled these out I thought they were pretty clean but look at all that that's metal that's bad real bad the other side not a lot I means any oh I take that back so we're going to have some problems in here and we're not taking apart a good engine today and the next thing I'm going to do is start cleaning the front cover off we're going to remove this pump this plastic thermostat housing and water Outlet why does that not work well that was simple now we'll move on to the water pump I don't know are there any bolts behind this thing let's pry on it and find out feel like there isn't oh yeah should come right off what have we here little bit of corrosion in here but that doesn't really affect the actual water pump itself impeller looks good no marks from the impeller hitting the timing cover the gasket looks pretty bad bad but that's easily replaced this is a good unit next belt tensioner and The Idler and finally the crank pulley you think this one will do it we'll find out oh oh that's not good I see whoever installed this crank seal was also the person that used a pipe wrench on the cam shafts yikes next we're going to tickle the timing cover and get a few of these bolts out all right did I miss any I think I got them all now do these have a threaded boss to pull themselves off with some of them do you'll be able to tell they'll be one of these bosses will be threaded but I don't see that on this maybe I'm just missing it so we're going to just start prying on stuff it's going to be fine it's going to be fine oh it might not be fine this is tough got all the bolts out right oh yeah she'll come off I think we're ready to pull this cover off holy moly oh yeah somebody's been in here before it's got whiz wheel marks all over the place wow that seal is it's gone Springs broken two different colors of a of RTV or sealant well let's take a look so we can see that there's some forbidden glitter in the oil pan that's never a good thing I looked a little closer and I looked at the date code on this rail right here and it's from 21 which means this has had a timing set put in it and that is already broken I don't know if that's user error or if that's uh install error or they're just very bad parts I I would tend to think that they would last longer than that but aside from you know the Forbidden glitter and the broken timing guide that have been already replaced it looks great now I'm going to turn this engine over see if we can line up the timing marks see if it's in time this is a big if oh that sounded terrible let's keep going uhoh bad stuff has happened no we just power through it it got really tough for a minute and there's no plugs in this this should turn over a lot easier just looking for the links there we go these links here well we got some loose stuff in there what we're looking for is right about there so first things first for those wondering these are the old cam phaser design the new ones have a cover on the spring Springs are not exposed this looks like it's in time to me that's lined up that's lined up that looks lined up to me timing marks on that cam gear you can see the different color links I think this engine is in time all right now it's time to peel all the timing system off we'll start with the tensioner I don't think these have a lot of power behind him famous last words wait why why did water come out of that that's not where this that's not where water goes uh that's bad you're not supposed to have that this rail come off pretty easy NOP let's take this one off next oh that's shattered that rail is shattered right there as well and I didn't even have to take that one out it's poor guide there's just water everywhere maybe this core was left outside but I didn't see any way for water to get into it not in the oiling system that looks decent I guess I do have to take this off well there's one chain decent onto the other bank there's no water in that one that rail looks pretty decent that rail is unbroken another nice chain at this point it's time to cram the cam caps off well at first glance it doesn't look too bad but that Second Glance that's what gets you the Rockers all look pretty decent they all seem to roll well nothing's out of place some of these journals aren't too bad but of course the head journals usually are in better shape than the Caps you can definitely tell there's some non oil substance in here the cam shafts they're not terrible few scratches there's the marks from whoever worked on it I don't know if it was a mechanic or DIY guy hopefully a DIY guy cuz I can I can excuse that kind of caps intake doesn't look too bad but when you get to the exhaust that's pretty chewed up that's not great that one's a little bit better these aren't terrible it's not like it had a ton of debris run through it or it was starved of oil for a very long time before we get the head bolts out I need to get that bolt it's I think the only external Torx bolt on the engine I don't know why that was the tooling of choice but it's a Ford so I really have no idea what size this is it looks like like an E9 which is why we're going to hammer a 6 mm metric socket onto it oh no my hammer broke if this doesn't work it should have oh it's not going to work I need more Hammer Force here uhoh we have things happening that I I don't like why is that why is that a what here all right let's get a bigger hammer it started to move right so that doesn't fit let's find something a little smaller we're going to bring it down a notch with a 5.5 that's a Ford size uhoh this may not work I don't have a good feeling about this no why is this like this we have an E8 on it now which is not right no this is uh we're going to have to take some other measures here first thing I'm going to do is use my long punch try to deform the head so that I can put a different socket on it we're going to try a five and a half I don't have a lot of faith in that I'm going to go down to a five but we're going to use one of those soft sockets from my local drugstore that's not going to work we'll have to get it off and way this is quite possibly the dumbest part of this engine so far I just want to Shear it off that's all I want to do here just like that see this is part of the bolt there we are I think we're good all right now it's time to crack the head bolts loose so we can pull the cylinder head all right now let's see if we can get this head off pretty easily right oh wait I'm forgetting one thing before I start I need to get the uh this Loop for the fuel hose off I just need to get it off one side or apparently both sides there we are okay now I think we can pull the head well what have we here I had gasket let's get the rest of this bolt out this the one I had to uh chisel the head off of still not quite sure why they use that tooling but it is a Ford they want you to use the entire tool box you got head gasket seems to be in pretty good shape first we must do our test ooh that sounded bad I don't know maybe it's fine oh that one's bad I could hear it okay then that was fun you remember what I told you about first glances it doesn't look bad some vertical where lots of debris from when I pulled the cylinder head you can see there's a couple marks there but I don't see any signs that the Pistons made contact with the cylinder head so that's good cylinder head looks pretty good as well and don't see any notable cracks or damage looks pretty solid to me next we'll cram the Caps off of this side uhoh everything's in bind this is how you fix it that's how I thought you fixed it what have I done for the record I took this apart at TDC so well the journals in the head look maybe a little worse than the other side they're not terrible again all the valve train looks to be in intact and where it's supposed to be that one's pretty scored up there so they're not great I think they're totally workable though some of the Rockers have a little bit of damage on on the rollers but nothing terrible the cam shafts have some minor wear aside from where someone used a pipe wrench the journals have some wear as well on the cam caps anyway that one's pretty grooved up but some of them are nice it's not like it it wiped all of them out it's the house housing for the high pressure fuel pump integral cam caps looks decent here's the lob for the high pressure fuel pump those marks not terrible all right we have a couple things to do before we get the the uh head bolts out way easier when it's a normal tool and because of the location of the cam sensors they kind of interfere with getting the head bolts out so I'm going to go ahead and remove them now we can get these head bolts out and head number two well that head gasket looks good too I don't see anything too bad but we must do our test everything seems to be pretty good huh there's quite a bit of carbon in here and you can see there's some decent vertical wear halfway down the bore as well as this side definitely see that something's going on there we can't really take a look at that boore at this time but I'm sure we will later look at all that debris but I don't see any marks on the Pistons from hitting the head which is surprising cylinder head looks pretty good too I don't see any issues whatsoever looks clean next let's get this oil filter off the oil filter housing now we're leaking some oil it didn't really look super clean got a kind of a watery texture wonder if this that Z w0 stuff they're running in the late models cars I'm going to let this drain and we'll cut this open before the end of the video so before I drain this I wanted to show you guys the Sparkles that are in this filter this filter became a bearing SLO box to catch all the material next I'm going to remove the oil cooler normally I take this off with the oil filter housing but the cooler blocks the bolts and now we'll get the oil filter housing off this should just just pull off right right now we're going to roll this thing upside down so we can pull the oil pan that's coolant that's a leaf that's oil that's I don't know what fluid that is perfect now we can pull the oil pan we're going to start with the 2 8 mm at the back not starting in the back I am pretty glad to see that this is aluminum I wish there was a way to get all the bolts out at once there we go our old blue here to make short work of this oil pan plus they leave you a place to pry whoa M there's stuff in there it's not supposed to be but there is well that's bad there's actually some pretty good size chunks in here we've got large bearing segments and lots of finely powdered bearings it's a nice good piece right there I see all kinds of bearings it's like the the bearing SE it's very pasty even a sliver in the pickup it's still good anytime that I get into an engine that's been into before and I see excess sealant I always fear that the pickup is going to be clogged of RTV or some kind of sealant but I don't see that in this case I think the fact that this piece of metal was in there was uh something that just happened because it had oil in it at least enough to suck this into the pickup next we'll pull the pickup tube tube feel like this pickup is holding some Secrets or bearings it's a lot is that it no there's more that might be it do you remember the statement I made just a minute ago that's RTV that's not good now I don't know if that's enough to clog the whole thing or cause a problem but that's certainly not good there's a few other pieces of it in here of course lots of bearing flakes these are just plated bearings they not very valuable next stop the oil pump I think that's it let's take this one out too that one wasn't even tight that bolt is bent someone's been in here wait a minute what what what we have we have problems in here uh what well more on that let's let's go look at the oil pump first let's get this oil pump apart you can see it has some damage to the outside of this this housing here what it's a smaller size but why Ford things nope I think Ford's motto is you paid for the whole toolbox you're going to use the whole toolbox I get them all I sure think so ah look Extreme Wear here shim looks okay vein style pump much like a transmission will this come apart easy oh yeah let's just dump all the pieces and parts I'm going to go ahead and clean all this up so we can take a better look at it well it's clear lots of damage to that housing I know it's hard to see but the outer edges of this are also damaged as you would expect all the veins have pretty normal wear maybe a little more than normal and the housing again really not great lots of wear towards the outside back to this I I have no words I did not expect that at all when I hit this bolt with the impact to get that off I thought that moved a little bit but that's a little more than a little bit let's get this girdle off so we can see what happened here okay H that checks out well it's pretty easy to see the failure here but why did that happen how did that happen I am so impressed it's amazing I suppose it's time to start pulling the rods and pistons let's see if we can turn this over this turns over right yeah see it's fine there's nothing wrong here oh hey hey that's kind of neat that's impressive all right now we're going to crack those bolts loose and we'll work way from front to back the clean way let's see how hard it is for this to come out came right out all right we're going to turn this over very carefully uh no no we're not going to do that we'll go this way it's just a a loose fit that's all it is let's go to the middle two cylinders final two cylinders see which way we can go here perfect that one does not want to come out there we go final rod and piston now we can tackle the main cap bolts I want to crack these Loose by hand to see if they sound different because of the broken crank wait a second okay let start with first main cap M so that's not good let flip it out of there wow spun the main bearing let's pull the first crankshaft out wow that's like a piece of artwork right there get the rest of these out don't anticipate anything too crazy and the final main cap now I need to remove this rear main seal plate it's kind of close to this engine stand so it might have to come up with the crank which is fine yeah this this might not work it's fine what if we just slightly modify it yeah yeah that'll work I think all right let's pull the secondary crankshaft let's start out with those rod bearings bottom shell doesn't look terrible top shell has some wear those look pretty pretty good as well nothing really standing out especially for you know the amount of metal we found on the VVT solenoids I expected more than this ah there we go there's a little bit of wear that's cylinder six final cylinder now the rods and pistons so this Rod has been self clearance with a broken crankshaft this thing was likely rotating back and forth in the bore making contact with the uh remnants of the crankshaft and one thing to note is you can see these rings are freed up well this actually secondary ring is it's stuck Pistons don't look terrible but every single one of these has a collapsed secondary compression ring the second compression ring is stuck in the ringland probably from carbon I would not say overheat I would say it's likely from carbon number one ring moves freely look at the amount of carbon and junk on these Pistons now I don't know what to do to avoid this maybe a catch can uh maybe better fuel but either way that's pretty telling I bet this thing was burning oil smoking or at least misfiring it had to run terrible I mean broken crankshaft aside these are just they're all stuck in the ring ringlands the land of the Rings now the best part the two-piece crankshaft you know forge's really big on modular engines but I don't think they wanted to carry it this far look at that it just broke that is insane we've seen some pretty crazy failures on this channel lately that's how I like to keep it but the journals are nice I think they'd polish right out um you know kind of a moot point at this point but if you go back to this main Journal that one's pretty chewed up and if you go to the main bearings this one was spun and I can't tell you if this spun and then it decided to uh break the crankshaft or if the broken crankshaft caused this to spin it's kind of a what came ver the chicken or the egg these were definitely spun in the main cap the rest of the main bearings don't look terrible this first main cap it definitely has some damage the rest of them look pretty normal and if you look at the edge of the counterbalance on the broken piece of the crank that's from making contact with the piston and the main cap or actually the rod now the oil filter look at the silver Slack in that it is Laden with sparkles for very forbidden glitter I mean look at look at that paste that's my glove after handling that filter and the main journal on the Block definitely has some damage I'm not going to say that this wouldn't clean up but I don't think the amount of machine work that this block would need to be right makes it worth it wow let's take a look at these BS some pretty good wear in there not terrible I mean I think this would clean up just fine little bit of damage to that one some vertical scratches oh that one's much worse yeah that's pretty bad and this is the boore on the front crankshaft you can see it's got quite a lot of wear in the middle of the boore a lot of vertical scratches it's pretty worn out not so bad on the other two cylinders not too good either wow well I did not expect that and I have a few theories as to how this happened first I'd like to mention that I don't believe all of the problems we found with this engine were related I think whoever went in there to replace the timing guides maybe the timing chain and used Channel loxs or a pipe wrench on the camshafts that situation while not great craftsmanship was not what caused the demise of this engine I think that was totally unrelated However the fact that every single second compression ring was stuck in the ring land is kind of telling so obviously when that happens it runs rough it has little compression it can misfire and if you have a flaw a factory flaw in a crankshaft when you find out that flaw exists is usually from some abnormal situation and when an engine is misfiring it's vibrating has some weird harmonics either a torque converter goes bad a flex plate goes bad there has to be some type of catalyst to making that flaw apparent and I think that's what could have happened here and it's just a guess is that if this thing was running rough and misfiring the plugs didn't look that great then those weird vibrations could have caused this crankshaft to break although that would never happen if there wasn't some sort of flaw in the metal of the crankshaft just because your car misfires doesn't mean you're going to break a crankshaft that's not how that works I have seen crankshafts break from usually extenuating circumstances you suck in water like I said a bad torque converter a broken flex plate something creates the problem I didn't see any signs of hydrolock in this engine there was no rust in this engine none of the rods were bent I'd like to think that those would bend before the crankshaft would break but in this case the crankshaft snapped in half now I searched the internets which that's where all the truth lies for other people that had broken cranks in a 35 EcoBoost and I found a couple but not a lot it it doesn't seem like it's a super common failure compared to the phaser problem and all the other issues you hear with these engines I think this might just be a bad run of crankshafts and it's a guess of course it's always a guess I'm not a mechanic I'm not a technician I don't repair cars every day I just take them apart so this engine has some good parts on it I am pretty happy with some of the parts that survived the cylinder heads hopefully those are worth some money they didn't look that bad and then the oil pan Which in my experience Ford oil pans aren't worth anything and that's maybe not as good as I thought I didn't pay a lot for this core it was a few hundred bucks and I think it was worth the video I really hope you enjoyed this tear down if you'd like to buy any parts out of this engine either for your desk you want the nose of the crank which I can only sell once or anything else out of it or anything else out of the engines I've torn down in the past or parts out of this 85,000 M Civic SI and ep3 it's really hard I'm going to leave our email in the video description you can also go to import apart.com and Peru our inventory I've been uploading our parts cars every single week as always I love all the comments all the feedback and even the criticism I love it all and I'll catch you on the next one

Channel: I Do Cars

Views: 178,838

Keywords: Ford, Ecoboost, F150, F-150, 3.5, Twin Turbo, Turbo, Gen1, Gen2, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, Expedition, Lincoln, V6, Towing, Reviews, Problems, Issues, Recall, capacity, Timing, Phasers, Replacement, Repair, Engine, Motor, Failure, I Do Cars, mechanic, Diagnosis, oil change, Tune, Vs 5.0, GMC, Chevrolet, Ram, Eco-boost, broken, failure, dyno, downpipes, Exhaust, Sound, Raptor, Ticking, Rattle, Water pump, Headgasket, Bearings, Cylinder, Misfire, coils, plugs, Service, Truck, Pickup, 0-60, specs, torque, horsepower, Crankshaft

Id: CfON7X5j6X0

Length: 43min 11sec (2591 seconds)

Published: Sun Feb 25 2024