Canon EOS R5 User's Guide

[Music] jared polin froknowsphoto.com and this is a user's guide for the canon eos r5 now i do want to warn you that this is going to be a pretty long video because i want to show you the outside of the camera as well as the settings that i would personally set the camera to if i was just getting it right out of the box now i do want to congratulate you on purchasing this camera if you purchased it or if you're thinking about purchasing one check the links out down below because we do have a real world review where i use this in the real world to show you how it acts guess where in the real world now before i jump into the outside of the camera and showing you how to put on the lens and where the memory cards go if that's too basic for you you can jump ahead to a different section where i'm going through how i would set up the menu but i still think it's important for anybody who's just picking up this camera who just needs some of the basic information i want to get that out to them so let's start going over the outside of the camera so here we go let's start with the bottom of the camera where the battery goes because you need to power it some way flick this door open this is where your battery goes pop that white switch here is your battery now i always recommend that you have multiple batteries at least two spend the extra money get a second battery keep it charged up rotate through them because when you're traveling the last thing you want to have happen is a battery either gets lost or you find out that it's not charged from the day before and you totally used it and now you can't shoot until it's charged again to put it in it can only go one way you put the contacts down you flick this white switch like that you pop it in you hear the click it's now in there shut the door and you're good to go now you may have noticed something inside that i didn't mention just yet this is a little connector this is where if you got a vertical grip a battery grip it would connect right into there screw into the bottom of the camera you would take the battery out because the battery would then go in to the battery pack now speaking of screwing things into the camera right here is where you put your tripod plate this is your quarter twenty that's how you mount to a tripod or a gorilla pod or any type of thing like a switch pod uh to to mount your camera now moving over to the right side of the camera this is where your card slots are you just literally press and slide that way you hear the click press boom it flips open and in here we have two types of memory card media this is a cf express type b card from prograde digital that goes right into this slot boom it clicks in right here we have an sd card you press down to take it out this is a pro grade digital 64 gigabyte card you pop it in here boom they're both in there you hear the click shut the door and now your cards are in the camera moving around to the front of the camera i want to show you how to take the lens off and as well put the lens on this is one of the scariest things when i first had my my first film camera was how do i take the lens off how do i put the lens on well it's really simple so i'm not going to show you me taking it off yet but here the lens is off this is the lens and this is the body right here that is your shutter you do not want to touch the shutter because behind that is your image sensor the shutter is down there is an option when the camera goes off to have the shutter stay up and expose the sensor at all times that's just going to be personal preference whether you want that to happen or not but you don't want to touch this you don't want to get anything in here you try to keep it as dust free as possible you don't want to blow any air in here with compressed air that could be a bad thing but how do we put the lens on you see this red line right here there's a red line there there's a red line right there on the mount of the camera we line those two things up like this and i'm holding it with my left hand so i'm going to rotate away from me with my right you hear the click the lens is now on to take the lens off you've got a lens release button right here on the right you press that you rotate the lens towards you at least if it's in your left hand you take it off and it's off put it back on click and you're good to go now i currently have on there the 50 millimeter rf 1.8 it's a pretty affordable really fantastic little lens that i recommend a lot of people get but to check out the full lineup of canon rf lenses head on over to canon dot us slash fro rf lenses to see all of the different lenses that they offer now that we got all that stuff out of the way we got the battery in the camera we got the cards in the camera we got the lens on the camera how do we turn it on oh i don't i don't know right here maybe the switch that says on and off yep switch boom it's now on off it's now off i know it's simple but you know it's just you just got to say it moving around the top of the camera this is your hot shoe a hot shoe is where you would put a flash if you want to put the flash on camera that's why it's a hot shoe it's active it's going to send power through it you could also use a microphone this is where you could slide a microphone if you're going to be recording video and you want to override the mics in the camera and use say a shotgun mic you could then put it right in here in the hot shoe facing forward or honestly you could face it backwards if you really really wanted to to the right of that you have a top info display this is really a display that i kind of don't use very often at this point because it's small and to be honest with you i can look through the electronic viewfinder which is right here this is the electronic viewfinder it shows you everything that you see with your camera you can review your menu through there but it's also how you see the image that the sensor is absorbing when it's on or when you're capturing images so this is what's called an evf an electronic viewfinder the old school way was an optical viewfinder meaning when you look through there there was a prism and then there was a mirror and you would see through the lens in this case the lens gathers the light the image sensor then processes it and then shows it to you on the little tv screen called the evf inside of the viewfinder now right below that is a proximity sensor so that means when you put your eye up to the viewfinder it's going to turn off the display which we haven't even mentioned yet but this is your display that is touch display you can touch you can pinch to zoom your images and you can control your menu from here you can also swipe and do all those different things but the proximity sensor's right here it activates when you put your eye up to it and it deactivates when you take your eye away from it now you can change a bunch of different settings for whether it stays on all the time or it never goes on we'll get to that in the menu system but actually why don't i just show you by turning the camera on so watch proximity look at that the screen goes off look at that the screen goes on the screen goes off the screen goes on touch screen look i can touch it and things are happening i can touch it things are happening the same thing will show up in the electronic viewfinder and a little word of advice here if you're shooting outside and you get some rain on the viewfinder and you're like wait a second my eye isn't up to it but the screen is dark that's because you may have gotten some schmutz schmutz as a word uh or rain on it and i've seen that happen in the past you just dry it off and then you're good to go right there turning the camera off since we talked about the electronic viewfinder i want to talk about people who wear glasses or who need to correct their eyes if they're not wearing glasses and looking through the electronic viewfinder you have a diopter right here this is a diopter dial that you can swipe up and you can swipe down it's going to help you see the screen the electronic viewfinder more clearly the way that you set it up is you turn the camera on you go into the menu mode and you can see the text that's on the screen so just simply turn this diopter dial until it's nice and sharp for you for your eyes and then you should be set now let's talk about the touch screen which i already mentioned that's right here it can flip out and rotate you can close it like that so it's going to protect the screen if it's closed if it's in a bag generally speaking you don't want to break the screen that's something that would be pretty expensive to replace but you also have a flip out rotatable screen if you're someone who's going to be videoing yourself you can turn it this way so that you can see it and then oh look at me i'm off to the side or if you need to get photographs where maybe you need to photograph over people you could hold it up like this or if you're down low on the ground you can turn the screen down like this and photograph that way so i generally just leave it like this faced out because i'm going to use the screen when i'm shooting i guess if you're going to put it in a bag it wouldn't hurt to just rotate it around but if you're going to be shooting quick and you want it always out boom you could have it out just like this moving to the top of the camera because there's quite a lot here we already talked about the top display we've got a mode dial where you would hit that to change your modes from video to photo you have a command dial that can control your aperture your shutter speed or your iso depending on how you set your camera you've got a button right here which will illuminate this screen it doesn't illuminate it very bright but it also will change the screen of the top dial next to that we've got the lock button let's say for example you don't want the touch screen to be active because for some reason you may accidentally hit it and you don't want it to be active you could literally hit that lock button and if you have that option selected to not have the screen be active at that time then it will lock the screen there's a whole bunch of different features that you could add to the lock button i will show you that when we go inside the camera as well this red button that's your record button to start as well as stop video recording it's pretty self-explanatory we have another command dial right here that can control your shutter speed your aperture your iso depending on how you want to set it i will show you how i like to set it when we get in to the menu this is a very powerful button it's the mfn button this one allows you to make changes quickly uh with your eye up to the viewfinder when you need to make changes of say the iso or you want to change your focusing mode it's like a quick button there is a cue button back here that we haven't talked about yet but it's very similar to that because it gives you a lot of it basically activates your ability to make changes quickly with your eye up to the viewfinder now this is an important button it's your shutter button that's the one that you will press halfway down to activate your focus uh to activate the meter but also to activate the continuous autofocus and when you press it all the way down that's when you take photos so if you're sitting there at home and you're wondering how much pressure to put on it it's simple if you press it gently a half press you can feel that it gives some give now to go all the way you just press it down all the way and you can feel the difference when you're taking the pictures let's talk about more buttons we got the back of the camera right here we'll start off here on the right hand side we've got the rate button so if you take a photograph and you say you want to star it to come up in adobe lightroom or something that it has a star on it that there's one that you picked you can go ahead and do that and it will save that into the file you've got the menu button the menu button does what it launches the menu that's how you're going to control it i'll just show you real fast turn the camera on we hit the menu button and here is your menu that you can touch through and go through all of the different settings just like that really nice screen really nice touch features we can turn it back off right now this is your joystick to the right your thumb will rest on it and just move up up down down left right left right b a b a select start not really but that is your joystick and if you get it and you're old and we're not that old if you get it yeah you're probably in your 30s and 40s if you get it leave a comment down below that hashtag i got it i know what you're talking about so that's your joystick you can use that in the menu you can use that to get around your images when you're previewing them even though you can just pinch and zoom because it is a touch screen next to that is your af on button if you want to activate your autofocus you could do that with the back button but the great thing about most of these buttons is that they're highly mappable is that you can tell the system what you want this button to do so if you want this button to do something else you can go ahead and change that and we'll see that when we get in to the menu system as well then you have two more function buttons here that you can also make changes to i usually map these with different options we'll see that in the menu we've got the magnifying glass which is if you want to zoom in on an image you would hit the magnifying glass and boom it zooms in on that image and you can change the magnification in the menu system also this is the info button it brings up info on a photo when you are previewing it when you're doing the playback it will change the screen so it should show you different info on there it will cycle through different options the cue button is super powerful it's like having access to the entire menu system of important things right on the back of the camera with one press of the button you would go ahead and press the q button and it brings up all of these different options that you can quickly get to let me jump in here real quick because i want to show you fro pack 3 in action on this photo taken with the canon eos r5 we're going to start with one click with fifth element and boom followed by eckert which looks great then we're going down to november rain look at how that looks prestige worldwide gives us that more realistic look and then we've got winnebago right here but i want to scroll up to fro pack one because i want to show you with one click what skittles does now skittles gets us pretty close now if you're looking to speed up your raw workflow or give yourself a great starting point we created 15 all new custom lightroom presets that you can check out right now at froknowsphoto.compropac3 while you're over there you can play with the sliders to see the befores and the afters and if you'd like to pick them up right now they are currently on sale or if you want to grab skittles which is in pro pack one and you want to get fro pack two and three together you can save even more with the triple play bundle now let's get back to the video below the q button you've got another command dial you can set this to iso or aperture or shutter speed if you wanted to you've got the set button right in the middle that's your ok or your enter button you got that right there this is your play button so you press it to play back your images and the oscar the grouch trashcan button that you press when you want to throw away photos or delete them i still highly recommend that you don't delete images inside of the camera because cards are big you don't really need that extra space most of the time so there's no reason to delete the photos in the camera don't worry about it just take care of that a little later moving on to the left hand side of the camera this is where you have a lot of your inputs you would basically move these rubber things out of the way this is a sync port it's a flash sync port so you have that you've got your headphone jack you have your microphone jack you have a usbc the usbc is great because you can actually power the camera you can charge the battery through there and power the camera with the battery in there we use that quite often you have your hdmi port which is good if you're going to do external video recording or honestly if you want to plug into a tv or any other device along those lines so look they're pretty sealed in here for weather sealing purposes so they flip out of the way but you do want to make sure that you seal them back up you just press here press here press here press here press here okay they're brand new so now it's sealed and there it is just like that on the front of the camera we already talked about the release button but right here you have a remote port so you can get a remote plug in right there just move that out of the way let me flip back to the top real fast because there's this icon right here that i never knew what it meant until i figured out what it meant it means inside the camera on this line on this plane that is where the sensor is actually located why is it important i don't know to be honest with you i don't know why it's important they put it there in case you want to know i mean i i guess if you want to line up that with something that could be a good thing so i just figured i would tell you what that is right here you have an led light indicator so this will help in low light situations it lights up and helps you possibly focus in lower light situations it also will blink when you're taking a picture of yourself say you do the two second time or the 10 second timer it will blink slower and then faster near the end and then boom you take a photo now this is something that i deactivate in the camera for for the autofocus purposes and i'll explain that when we get there you have an rf receiver right here so you can trigger that with a wireless remote then we also have this button on the front which is your depth of field preview button which i never used in film days and i never use in digital days so you can remap this button to do something else like maybe i want to change my iso from here maybe that's something that you can do i mean i don't really use that button very often but maybe it will come in handy for you and that basically is everything i mean that's the outside of the camera now i know it was basic and i know it's the fundamentals but it's good to see it it's good to get an understanding of what each thing is i mean we're always learning different things about cameras but now that you pick this up you know the outside of the camera and now it's time to move into the menu systems to help you set up the camera now we're going to start with the photography aspect setting it up for if you're going to be shooting stills now we're setting up for how i personally would use it so that's my opinion on how i would set it up you can go in there and set it up any way that you would like and we're also then after that going to set it up for shooting video now i do want to mention if you hear some pitter patter like rain it is absolutely pouring right now here in philadelphia and we have the roof and it's raining so if you hear something that's what it is so right off the bat let's hit the menu button now you see how there's only one two three and four options under the red menu you don't have as many options because we are in auto currently now the mode dial is up here if we want to change it we don't have like other cameras a dial that just says psa m or tv and av and all those things to twist and turn here we have the mode dial we hit mode and there's a we're going to go to manual which is where i like to do my shooting but that's also going to unlock the entire menu system we have fv which is flexible priority program tv av tv is shutter priority av is aperture priority m is manual you got bulb then your custom menus one two and three for c1 c2 and c3 but i like to be in manual because i can take full control of the camera and look at this we have now eight different uh folders here under red or eight different pages that we can choose from and we're gonna go through and individually go through each one of them now i'm not gonna go into super detail about every little nuance of this of this menu because that would make this like an eight hour video but i'm going to go through the things that i like to use and give you some explanations starting with image quality when you go into image quality you'll be able to touch the screen i actually didn't mention that i'm using a recorder here so that we can record the menu system exactly as you would see it if you were going through the camera that's why we're using this recorder i'm plugged into that which means i can't touch the touch screen to make any changes but you can so just remember that so let me go back i'm going to go back here just starting again image quality currently it it's it's set to jpeg large i prefer shooting on raw so i go to raw here and i turn off jpeg now for those of you who don't know what a raw file is or what a jpeg is a jpeg is a more compressed file think of it as being baked the camera gets a bunch of information throws out what it doesn't think you need and then compresses it into a small jpeg a smaller file that is called a jpeg now in this case we also have raw raw is all of the data that the camera is capturing and you have to take the raw file after the fact and edit each raw file that's what i do i tweak every raw file in adobe lightroom you can edit the files wherever you can open the raw files but just know that raw takes up more space than jpeg but i will always shoot in raw next up we have what's called dual pixel raw it's currently disabled we're going to go in here and we're going to leave it disabled for now but i just want to hit the info button wherever you see let's go back wherever you see info and help that means if you hit that on the back of the camera it's going to basically tell you what that means it's not there for everything but it's there for some things basically what dual pixel raw is doing is taking a raw file but it's going to be double the size because it's in essence taking like two pictures in one but it's allowing you to shift the focus ever so slightly in canon's proprietary software this is not a feature that i personally use but if you were going to be shooting say well i don't even know what i would say you would be shooting if you would use this is there anything you can think of steven portraits uh yeah i mean i guess i could see it making sense for portraits if maybe you're off slightly but the r5 and the dual pixel af is so good in this camera that you're probably not going to be off so i leave this on disabled now we've got cropping and aspect ratio it's currently set to full what full means is full frame then you've got the 1.6 crop factor 1 1 4 3 and 16 by 9. i am shooting in full frame all the time that's a personal preference and if you went to say one to one because you wanted to shoot square format for whatever reason if you're shooting raw the raw data will maintain the entire file but the jpeg will only give you that square so you're losing out if you shoot in the square and maybe you didn't want square in the future so stick with full into the second menu under red we've got exposure compensation i leave this set right in the middle to zero i don't really mess with that we've got iso speed settings which are currently set to auto i do not do auto iso when it comes to shooting stills i like to take control of my iso because i personally can do a better job 99.9 of the time than the camera so i switch this out and look you can go to 100 you can dial it all the way up to 51 200 but remember you can also make these changes outside of the menu but just for now we're going to set it to 100 because we took it out of auto now if you were going to stay in auto iso you can set the range for well you can set the iso speed range to say i don't want it to go past 51 200 which it won't but let's say we don't want it to go past 6400 you can set it so that it won't go past 6400. you can also have an auto range saying well i don't want auto iso to go past 12 800 and then you have minimum shutter speed i have that on auto as well next up we have hdr pq settings i personally don't go in here to to play with any of this so i skip right past it to be honest with you next up we have auto lighting optimizer it is currently set to off this is another one of these features that i personally leave off because i don't want the camera to make these decisions for me and when i shoot raw i just want to go ahead and tweak my raw file next up we've got highlight tone priority i turn this off anti-flicker shoot is actually really good option it's going to be disabled right now but you enable it when you're in a situation it says this it says if enabled is set the shutter release time lag becomes longer continuous shooting speeds may become slower see what's happening here is let's say you're in a gymnasium there's flickering lights you don't want to take a picture when that flicker is going on because you're going to get a weird look in your camera but you can't see when that's going to happen but the camera knows for whatever reason the fro knows no the camera knows it will wait to take that photo until the er of the flick or the flick of the er and that way you don't get those issues so if you find yourself in situations where there's a lot of flickering lights or potential for flickering lights we're not talking about strobes we're talking about bulbs and all of those things that you may not notice it but the camera does you can enable that and that way you can have a better chance of getting a picture without the flickering effect next up we have external speed light control there is a lot of power in here say you have three different strobes or flash units set up outside of the camera you can control all three of them from here so if you're into flash and using the flash you have a lot of control in this menu so you might want to play with this one but right now we're not talking about flash we're gonna move on to number three would you like me to send you this free guide to capturing motion in low light situations well if you said yes just look for this orange box over on my website put your name email address in it hit send it and i will send you that guide for free let's start with white balance it's currently set to auto white balance now when you're shooting raw files you can tweak the white balance after the fact without any issue if you're shooting jpegs that's going to be more baked in it's going to be harder to change that white balance after the fact i think the auto white balance is one of those features one of the very few auto features that i use inside of cameras but i do rely on it and it works very well now if you do have a situation where you're shooting and you know the color temperature like we know these lights are 5600 degrees kelvin we can lock in to that color temperature by going into custom white balance we will go all the way over to the k1 which i believe stands for kelvin and we would set that to not 5200 we want to set that to 5600 degrees and then every picture we take will be the white balance of 5600 degrees so now you know that custom white balance is if you have a gray card and you want to get a custom white balance for where you are you would go into that mode next up there's white balance shift that's if you want to change the the blues the greens the magentas this is another thing that i personally don't touch especially when it comes to stills we've got color space i leave on srgb and picture style is currently set to standard but there are a lot of different picture styles like monochrome and faithful and neutral and fine details landscape portrait auto standards generally fine i may tweak these a little bit when i shoot raw because they don't affect my raw file but they will affect the preview on the back of the screen when i'm looking at the image i just took and sometimes i like to have my contrast pumped up just a little bit there but now would be a good time to tell you that if you shoot jpeg you're going to want to tweak these picture styles i recommend shooting raw but if you're just starting out i say shoot raw plus jpeg so you could always go back to those raw files but the reason i say this is important is because if you are shooting jpegs in monochrome that means you're throwing away the color data you're going to be left with just a monochrome image you can never get back the color now if you shot monochrome but you were shooting raw the image on the back of the screen would show you black and white monochrome but the raw file will still have that color data that you can just with a click of a button bring it right back in post production so just know that it's baked in so if you're really really off with your picture style and you did so like you shot a bride and they were maxed out to max sharpening yeah you're not going to be able to get that back if you shot jpeg next we've got clarity which you know you could pump it up just a little bit for your preview if you're shooting raw files it may help you out because the preview on the back of the screen will just be a little bit crisper and clearer but it does not affect your raw file we've got lens aberration correction what do they have they have look i don't mess with this one let it just do what it's going to do and i skip on over to number four i don't want noise reduction i don't want the camera to implement the noise reduction and smooth out an image i rather see some grain some noise than see it smooth and not sharp high iso noise reduction i turned this one off as well because when you shoot at higher isos what's happening is you're introducing more noise you're introducing more grain but that's okay i rather have sharp grain like i said than have smooth looking images that just look fake so i leave that off dust delete data is another thing that i don't even go into so i skip over to number five first up we've got multiple exposure it's currently disabled but you can go ahead and enable it i mean this is pretty interesting so basically if you don't know what a multiple exposure is let me take this back to the film days real fast to give you an explanation so if you were to take a film picture you take the picture and you don't advance to the next image and you take another picture you literally exposed that piece of film twice that is called a double exposure or multiple exposure in this case i mean you could do it three four or five times it gets a little weird but now that you can do it inside the camera digitally it's a good little thing to play with uh if you want to get creative or if you don't want to get creative you could just do it after the fact in photoshop or something and just take two pictures and put them on top of each other in layers but this gives you that option to do multiple exposure inside of the camera now you've got hdr mode high dynamic range i personally turn this off but if i'm correct that's just affecting your jpeg it won't affect your raw file next up is focus bracketing this is actually a pretty cool feature built into this camera let's say you wanted to photograph an iguana now it's just sitting there it's never going to move probably because it's stuffed or dead or it's a toy but you want to get it in infinite focus and you you're using a macro lens you can set it so it will take a picture move focus take a picture move focus take a picture move focus a little bit and do the whole thing and then with software it can compile it all together and it looks incredible that is a fun little feature to play with number six interval timer is currently disabled but the interval timer is a powerful tool now in this case the first way that it's set it's set to 10 seconds at 10 seconds it's going to take a picture then it the next tense after 10 seconds is going to take another one up to 10 shots but you can change this to basically anything you want to change it to this is great for time lapse and by the way you see that info button it says boom we can go in there and have more details you can go in here and set the times like even more hours and even more shots like is it like 909 is this going to be just 99 or is it going to go beyond that oh unlimited so you can have it set to just keep going until you run out of battery power or cards but yeah very powerful lots of great options inside of that setting now bulb timer is currently disabled because i'm plugged into the camera but then we've got shutter mode electronic first curtain is where it's set currently that's what i leave it on for the most part you also have mechanical which is what you're going to use if you're going to shoot with strobes or flash or you run into any major flickering issues you'll have a better chance of getting it with the mechanical shutter but then you have electronic shutter so this is where you can get that maximum continuous speed of 20 frames per second shooting if you go into the electronic shutter now when you go into the electronic shutter it's going to be silent so you're going to hold you're going to shoot pictures and you're going to see inside the camera that it's taking pictures but sometimes your fingers on the button and you don't realize you're shooting because you don't hear anything so just be aware of that but that's how you get into it with electronic shutter alright moving out we've got release shutter without card is currently on i still don't understand why that's always on basically what that means is you could take pictures without a card in the camera which means you could be taking pictures without a card in the camera which then means you're not actually taking pictures i mean you're technically taking pictures but they're not recording to anything so why would you even want to risk that like the time i shot a lot of hockey without a roll of film in the camera and i was like damn it anyway number seven we've got is image stabilization modes is mode is currently on image stabilization in this camera is fantastic that's going to help help not kelp but help counteract any motion any movement or shake that you have it allows you to shoot at slower shutter speeds so if you need to hand hold it one tenth of a second you could probably do it but keep in mind if you're photographing a subject that's moving at one if you're photographing at one tenth of a second and they're moving fast they may still blur this camera can't make them freeze at such a slow shutter speed it's there to counteract your movement next we've got still photo is is set to always versed only for shoot always means it's always active so you're going to see your if you're shooting something and you're shaky well it's going you're going to see is activated so you're not it's going to be nice and smooth but if you were to turn that off then it's going to be all shaky until you press the button and then it's going to be active so i leave this on always i know this takes a while these are long i mean there's a lot of menus here but they are honestly pretty self-explanatory when you go through them next up we've got touch shutter it's currently disabled i don't ever enable this because i don't want to touch the screen and have it take a picture because there's been times where if you you know aren't near the proximity sensor and your nose or finger touches it it's taking a picture i don't want it to do that image review inside of here i turn image review duration is off i do not want to see the picture after i take it viewfinder review is currently disabled as well so basically with image review what happens is you take a picture and then for two seconds the picture shows up in the viewfinder or on the lcd screen until you get rid of it and the way you would get rid of it is you would basically touch the shutter button halfway down and then that would get rid of it but that's annoying if you're focusing on taking pictures you don't want the other picture you just took showing up in your eye and blocking everything off i i don't even know why they offer you that but turn that off next up is high speed display is off i leave it set to off we've got metering timer eight seconds is fine exposure simulation is enabled what this means is that you can see the exact exposure in your electronic viewfinder when you are taking pictures so if you're overexposed underexposed you're gonna see it right in your face or in your eye for that matter now if you're using strobes or flash this is where you would turn this off so that you have just a constant bright viewfinder because you can't see what your flash is going to look like if you have simulation on shooting info display this is another good one oh my god there's a lot in here so let's go into screen info settings you have all of these different options one two three and four you can see what they do is displayed but you see how one two and three says hit info to edit screen you can hit info and then you can choose what goes on there you can change the on-screen buttons histogram display electronic level so you can add all of these things or take them off it is highly customizable this is going to be for personal preference you're going to choose what one is best for you let me cut in here real quick and remind you that you can check out the entire canon rf lens lineup over at canon dot us slash fro rf lenses over there you can see everything that they offer including this 50 millimeter 1.8 which i highly recommend as a lens that you pick up now let's get back to the video next up we have viewfinder info toggle settings this is what's going to show up in your electronic viewfinder let's say i don't like this i don't like you i turn you off and i hit ok but also see this info again you can change the info like oh i don't i don't want you go away histogram go away information and then you hit ok and we made those changes and then we hit ok again now we've got viewfinder vertical display is currently on this is good the the numbers that show up the shutter speed aperture and iso that show up in the bottom of the display uh when you go vertical it rotates so it becomes at the bottom that is one of they're one of the only camera companies that do it and this camera does it and it's fantastic we've got grid display is off i leave that off now if you need help with rule of thirds and keeping your line straight you may want to put that on but i personally do not do that we've got histogram display you can change the whether it's the brightness or whether it's rgb i leave it for brightness and in the the display size it was large and in charge and in the way i can make it smaller because we don't really need that to be super big if we're going to put it in our display so i go ahead and move that one to small next up we've got focus distance display so in manual focus but here you can change units of measure you have meters and you have feet we like to go with feet here because we don't know what meters are but let's put it to meters because i think i'm always used to that though i don't know what a meter actually is i'm going to go back here and now we can move on to number eight under red we've got viewfinder display format that's fully large covers the entire viewfinder or if you have glasses and you can't get your eye fully up into the viewfinder you can do display too which shrinks it down just a little bit but it still gives you all the same information i use the entire viewfinder so i leave it on display one and we've got display performance you've got power saving you also have smooth which is quick moving subjects are displayed smoothly or power saving yeah i don't use power saving i just used smooth like rob thomas and santana that's a deep pull deep pull now moving on to auto focus settings we call this the magenta or pink i think it's more magenta we've got af operation servo af so these two things we've got one shot one shot means that if you press your finger halfway down on the button it's gonna lock focus in and then if your finger stays pressed on the button the focus will not shift servo is continuous autofocus to be honest with you 99 999 times out of a hundred thousand you're probably going to be in servo the times that you use one shot these days are actually more limited than they used to be um maybe inanimate objects that aren't going anywhere you just want to lock off lock it in that's one thing that you can do but i stay in servo for just about everything we've got af methods i call this lock-on tracking every time but really that's a face i didn't realize it was a face till steven told me it was a face but lock on tracking or face plus tracking is my favorite mode ever in a camera it's fantastic it's gonna help find the eyes and the face it's gonna help the tracking it allows you to focus on your composition because the camera's doing such a great job with everything else but you also have spot af which i don't use you've got one point af which is if i really need to get that one point i'll use spot i'll use the one point you've got expanded af area then you have expanded af area around which gives you what what's that nine one two three one two three one two three that's nine because that's three times three that's nine um then you've got zone af which gives you a wider area but the camera is going to pick the settings inside of the the square to pick the right focus point then you can do zone af for vertical so it's going to be a vertical slash in the uh in your viewfinder it's going to pick the best focusing point to use and then you've got large zone af horizontal which is a larger box and it's going to basically pick the best focusing point but to be honest with you tracking face tracking the best option i've ever had in a camera subject detection it's set to people but you can also do animals or no priority you're like i don't care people animals same thing but in this case if you're going to photograph people make sure it's in people if you're going to photograph animals put it in animals but don't forget to put it back in people because i made that mistake i had it in animals i was still trying to shoot people and i'm like why isn't this working the way i want it to work it still worked stuff was still in focus but it was better when i went back into people so you just want to make sure you go into the right area eye detection is currently enabled i love eye detection it's going to find the eye we'll show you that later in action but that is the best thing to use continuous af is disabled what continuous af means it's a little confusing the way that it is here you might think wait why would continuous autofocus be disabled no what it's actually saying is if you enable this your camera just constantly is focusing even if you don't put your finger on the button i'm not really sure who would use that or where you would use that i've never personally used it so i keep it on disabled touch and drag af settings really powerful stuff if we go ahead and we enable this this allows us to select a portion of the screen where we can drag our thumb across it to change the focusing points quickly it's much quicker than using the joystick it's fantastic i love using it i personally put mine on the right hand side of the screen and i use relative position this is something you should definitely turn on it's fantastic in the focus mode you've got af as well as manual manual stands for manual focus all right under af let's go to two we have manual focus peaking settings they're currently off but if you want to do manual focus this will help you find the edges and keep them nice and sharp when you're trying to manually focus which i mean most people aren't manually focusing but it will definitely be helpful focus guide that's very helpful if you're going to manually focus i would put this on basically what it does it takes two triangles and as you turn the focus it brings them closer the further away they are the more out of focus you are the closer you are and when it goes green that means go take the picture because it's in focus i talked about the af assist beam firing earlier i don't need auto focus assist beam anymore personally i turn this off it's just annoying to be honest with you if you see this light you say you're in a dark situation you're photographing someone they're doing an interview or they're doing something and all they see is like an orange light blinking every couple every time you press the shutter button halfway down yeah it's it's helpful for focus but it's a pain in the end it's annoying so i turn it off all right number three ooh servo af there's a lot of different cases here they are self-explanatory this is what the autofocus is going to look for when you are photographing in this case it's like oh case one is versatile multi-purpose setting you see a runner running really fast about to fall over and you see a figure skater so you can see what that means i personally leave it in case one just about all the time but you've got case two which will continuously track a subject ignoring possible obstacles which is pretty good if you're photographing a tennis player and then there's an obstacle like the line judge in the background or the ball judge or the ball boy ball girl whoever they are you don't want to get them number three is instantly focuses on the subject suddenly entering the af points that's good if something is just coming across the screen really fast maybe maybe airplanes that could be good you have tracking sensitivity which you can control and then you have auto which is case a which is tracking automatically adjusts to the subject movement like this camera knows if you're shooting a bird it's like oh i've seen this before i've been trained by ai to do this um so personally a i leave it in case one moving to number four we've got lens electronic manual focus if you're gonna shoot manual focus come play around with this settings i don't shoot manual focus very often but play with this setting if that's something that you do you've got one shot af release priority so this is going to let's hit the info because this is interesting focus priority no shot will be taken until the subject is in focus release priority prioritizes shutter release over focus be aware that the camera will shoot even if the subject is not in focus so to be honest with you i kind of just leave it on priority in older cameras that i had i would actually turn it to release because sometimes i'm like it's in focus why aren't you shooting and it wouldn't shoot but to be honest with you this camera does not miss often so i would just leave it where it is uh switching tracked subjects info again tells us set the ease of switching to other subjects from the subject currently tracked takes effect when the af method is set to face tracking and all those other different ones so you can change this it could switch to more or it could stay on the initial subject i leave this set to one but you can play around with that as well lens drive when af is impossible what this means is that if it can't find autofocus do you want it to just stop or do you want it to keep trying to find autofocus i leave it on to keep trying to find autofocus next up we have af method selection control it's on mfn so if i want to quickly change the autofocus method that i'm using i literally just hit that button and when my eye is up to the camera i can then easily turn the dial and change the mode that i want we've got orientation linked af points same for both vertical and horizontal yeah i mean this is let's just read what it says select separate af points for vertical and horizontal shooting same for both use the same af method and af point zone in both vertical and that separate af points wow that's a lot of information for something like this to be honest with you i leave it on same for both vertical i just want the focusing point to stay where it is so when i go vertical i don't want it to move on me to say the top i can control that myself but to be honest with you and i need to stop saying stephen kick me if i say that again if i say to be honest with oh don't kick me i mean to say it again um the thing is with this r5 you don't really run into issues with having to change the auto focusing points when you rely on the lock on tracking or the face detect an iaf because the camera knows where to go moving into number five the last in af we've got initial servo af point for face tracking is set to auto currently i kind of have it set in auto but there is a cool feature in here where you can have it so that you have a focus box that shows up that if you need to quickly move it around with the touch pad that we set earlier you can move it to basically tell the camera hey look here look in this area it's there as a safeguard so that is not a bad option to turn on i would just recommend try them both to see what works best for you we got focus ring rotation i leave where it is rf lens ms focusing leave that where it is and then sensitivity of the af point select this we ramp up now why do we ramp this up because i want to quickly be able to move the focusing points there's no reason for them to be moving slow if i want them to move fast so i put this on plus one so it is slightly faster let me jump in here and say if you're finding this video helpful could you please hit that subscribe button subscribing really helps out and it also means you won't miss any of my videos when they go live but also be sure to check out the archive of videos that i have because i have over 3 000 videos that's three right yes 3 000 videos that are fun and informative and are going to help you become a better creative now let's get back to the video next up we get to move to the playback menu do i want to protect images no do i want to erase them no rotate stills nope i really don't do anything inside of this menu so i just skip right past it print order photo book setup another thing i don't do inside of the camera raw processing maybe something that you do if you shot raw and you want to convert it quickly for a jpeg and then transfer it to your phone to get it out into the world i could see that you might do that next we've got dual raw processing so i guess you can do dual pixel uh processing inside the camera if you want try it out give it a shot i'm not going to resize i'm not cropping and i'm not shooting heave so i'm not converting it to jpeg either slideshow's another thing i don't set but let's see magnification this is what i set i do actual size so this means i can just zoom in on a photo when i hit play back so that it's going to go in to where it's in focus and that's a great way to know that did we hit the i did we not hit the i and i love to be able to just jump in with one press of that magnifying glass button and it takes me right into the photo that's that's great image jump i don't do this i don't touch the rate button for function you you actually have the ability to record a memo if you wanted you would just come in here you would hold it set that way now you can hold it and you can record a little memo to be tied in with that image so if you shoot for like a newspaper and you're like this is john schmoe j-o-h-n shmo s-h-mo shmo and then you would know that it was john schmo we'll take it back here uh memo audio quality wow you could actually do higher or lower that's insane um yeah just leave it higher because you got plenty of room to to put that on your cards playback information display is very important look there's 11 different displays here not everything is needed these are needed like i like seeing the histogram but i don't need this i don't need that i don't need that i definitely don't need that so look you go through here and you find what you need or what you don't need sometimes you may be like oh i like this it gave me that location information or i like this because it will give me nothing and then you would just hit ok and now those are the only things that would show up when you do the info display next up we've got highlight alert is currently disabled this is for the bright areas uh in your image like even the background here is nice it's bright and white well with the highlights be blown if there were blown highlights then if you put this on enabled there would be these blinkies that blink at you and be like there's no detail here but that just shows you there's no detail there i mean if the photo is exposed right but there's no detail in a certain area that's perfectly fine with me i i can leave that that could go either way disabled or enabled now af point display is something that i enable i like to know where the auto focusing point was when i took the picture so you will see a red box show up where that focusing point was playback grid wow you have all these different options for that you can play tic tac toe right inside the camera um playback grid i leave off then we've got movie play count i leave that on record time and hdmi hdr output is currently set to off um and if you're gonna shoot hdmi hdr output you would then turn that on now we go to my favorite menu the purple one because my favorite color is purple my favorite dinosaur was not barney okay it's not but this is where you set up your wi-fi and bluetooth connection it is really easy to set up just download the canon connect app it walks you through there's a tutorial right inside the app on how to set this up you connect via wi-fi or bluetooth and the canon connect app is absolutely fantastic you can shoot video from the app control all the settings you can photograph or video yourself for example we have a camera set up over there is that the r5 or the r6 steven it's the r5 uh shooting us right now and i could have the canon control app open and i could see that the focusing point could lock onto my eye and follow me i can hit stop or start it is a powerful app that i highly recommend that you do try out it's a great remote app so it's really easy to set up just go through this follow the settings the prompts on the screen it's easy to do now you can also do image transfer from here as well again self-explanatory when you get in there and we're not gonna hit reset at this point now we got the wrench menu there's a lot to talk about in here we got record function plus card folder set some really weird wording here um basically what this is showing you is that you would have stills and video going to separate cards if you had it enabled i don't i don't want them going to separate cards but maybe you do maybe you want stills going to one and video going to the other that's that's not my style so that's disabled now record options for stills we've got auto switch cards which means when one card fills it's going to go to the next card record separately i don't do that one either i do record to multiple what that means is that all of my stills will be saved to card 1 and card 2. it's redundant i like to do that for security and safety purposes because if something happens to one card if that happens i want to make sure that i have a second card as well next we've got record options for video it's on standard or auto switch auto switch just like i said before it's going to finish with the one card it's going to go to the next card now if you think that you can do redundant recording like you can do with stills you can't so you i mean you can if you shoot raw you can then put raw to one card and then the mp4 to the second card as a proxy but you can't say i want this 4k file to be written to both cards that's not something that you can do so either auto switch or standard is perfectly fine here now we have record and playback being that i only have one card in the camera right now in slot number two it's going to do record and playback from slot 2 for photos and from slot 2 for video as well in the folder i just leave it custom set here but if you have multiple cameras you could set it up to eos r1 eos r2 eos r3 like whatever you want it to be you can change those folders if you have multiple cameras continuing on we got file numbering is set to continuous i always do continuous file number we don't want to auto reset i don't want to take 10 pictures pop the card out put another card in and have it start at zero one two three four five so i do it with continuous shooting uh sorry continuous numbering file name always good to go in there and change it like i'll put fro and then maybe an underscore but i don't change any of these other settings i leave it exactly the way it is other than changing the the file name format card this is important i'm not going to do it right now but you can see that i have 3.04 gigs used i have a 64 gigabyte card in there with 59.8 usable but if i wanted to format i would hit ok and it would erase everything on the card aka formatting it to this camera i'm not going to do that right now but you see how it says all data will be lost with an exclamation point they should add two more exclamation points to have three to make a bigger point that you don't want to do that if you haven't backed up your files so i always reformat my cards when i put them back in the camera before i go do a shoot but i also make sure that everything's backed up so after a shoot i come home i back it up i make sure it's on another hard drive and make sure it's in the cloud before i start reformatting cards so reformatting is a big deal but just don't do it until you've backed everything up and you've double checked that you've done it now auto rotate which is right now it's on on the camera and on the computer this is like hieroglyphs you kind of need to know what this stuff is to to to understand it at this point but that's saying that it's going to rotate a vertical image on the camera so that it's going to only take up you got this steven so it's only going to take up this portion of the screen vertical while you're looking at it horizontally but it's going to rotate it on the computer which is more important than anything so i just put it on to on for the computer because i like when i turn my camera vertically that the the vertical image takes up the entire screen so that it's just bigger and easier to see next we have add camera rotation info i'm pretty sure this means if you enable it and you shot vertical video for some reason which i guess it's more popular these days that it will tell the computer that and it will come in as vertical date time and zone means exactly what it is this is where you set your date and time and make sure that it's set and don't forget the daylight saving time when that stuff comes around that you need to go spring ahead and fall back menu number two here we've got language obviously you change it to whatever languages that you want to speak or read for that matter so it's in english because that's all i know video system is set to ntsc now we've got the help size is currently set to small if you're blind like me help size could be set to standard i don't want standard i would call this big man i'd call this large but we'll just leave it on small for now next we've got beep for uh you can enable it you could put it it's on touch as it is i believe that's when you touch the back of the screen and take a picture it's going to beep it's going to go like beep and takes a picture and then of course you could disable that if you would like to try them out see what works for you headphone volume self-explanatory you can set your headphone volume to what you want power savings you can go in here we have it set to 30 minutes uh we don't have auto power off or viewfinder off at this point because if i did that it would mess up my recording but display off is something that i put on for like a minute or 30 seconds um auto power off if it's sitting idle for five minutes i want the camera to go off uh that that would explain why the battery was dead today steven because i didn't turn it off yesterday after we were done recording another one of these for the eos r6 um so yeah you want to set those just for the camera to go to sleep and eco mode we have off as well not that we have anything against being economically uh aware but we just we leave it off so here we have screen viewfinder display it's currently on auto one which means when you flip the screen out it's only going to show the display on your touch screen you will not be able to have the ability to look through the camera and use the evf now with auto switch if you put your eye up to it and you had the screen out to the side then you could use the evf or you could use the screen or you could do just the viewfinder or just the screen i mean honestly i would have one or two on next we've got screen brightness self-explanatory if you want your screen brighter or darker if you're outside in a bright sunny day you may want it to be a little brighter but keep in mind that if you're trying to go off your your exposure off of a super bright screen it may be slightly off when you go and take the picture which is why i have my viewfinder brightness set to auto now auto means that if you're in a bright area it's going to make the viewfinder a little brighter if you're in a darker area it's going to make it a little more muted but i don't want to set it to super bright because then my electronic viewfinder which has given me the simulation for exposure simulation may not be perfectly represented and that's why sometimes using a histogram might be good but i like to leave it on auto and my uh my exposures are pretty darn close when i leave it on auto with this one we've got screen viewfinder color tone so you can go in here and you can change the tone of the screen but i leave it on default with with the number two we've got fine tune vf color tone so you can actually change up the viewfinder's color tone but i leave that the way that it is and then ui magnification i'm assuming means if you're blind double tap the menu screen with two fingers for enlarged display oh wow i didn't even know that existed we have that disabled i don't even think that's something that i would need but if you need to see your screen better i would say just put your eye up to the viewfinder it's much easier to see the screen that way would you like to take better pictures in only 11 days well i created a free mini video course that you can sign up for right now at froknowsphoto.com 11days now we've got wrench number four we've got hdmi resolution we currently leave that on auto next we have touch control is set to standard they do give you a sensitive option i guess that if you cry a lot it will be like here's a tissue or maybe it will talk more quietly to you but really if you want it to be more sensitive touch control you turn that on and if you want to disable touch control altogether you could go ahead and disable it now the multi-function lock you saw i talked about these earlier i'm like oh i don't want to use touch since we just talked about touch let's turn off everything i'm going to do this and when i hit save for the multi-function lock which is right here if i don't want touch functions on the back of the screen i would then go ahead and hit lock and because i set that in the camera i can no longer use the touchscreen until i unlock it now shutter at shutdown remember when i showed you how to put the lens on at the very beginning and the shutter was down that is basically to protect the sensor from as much dust as possible because your sensor is exposed now you can have it be closed or you could say that it stays open which means that it just doesn't come down i mean they give us the option for closed so you might as well leave it closed that's where we like to keep our cameras and for sensor cleaning you have the option of doing auto cleaning at power shut off you can clean it right now which i'm not going to do or you could clean it manually i would either do something along the lines of enable this sorry you could do at power off enable says automatically clean the sensor when the camera is turned on or off that's a lot of extra cleanings i don't think you need to do that or you could totally disable it and go in and do it yourself i mean honestly at auto power off or sorry when you turn the power off that one works perfectly fine but if i had to really choose i'd probably turn it off and then only use it when i actually needed it now we've got wrench menu number five we're gonna reset the camera no we're not because we just set it all up but this one is very important we've got custom shooting modes for c1 2 and 3. that's where you would set the the dial remember when you hit mode and you could switch between manual fvp tv and all of those you also add one two and three c1 c2 c3 and so for example let's say you like to shoot outside and it's bright well you could lock in settings for outside that are a good general starting point for c1 and then c2 could be set for if you want to shoot inside and you know that you want that iso to be higher and you want your aperture to be more wide open and a slower shutter speed these are things that are quick settings so that you can quickly get into those or you have one for video and one for photos and that way you can just get there much quicker without having to change too many things in the camera next you've got battery info we can go in here and see that i've got 53 of the battery left so far i've taken no pictures it uses battery when i sit here and i'm sucking up juice just showing you guys this stuff and the recharge performance if it's three greens that means the battery is basically brand new and over time we're talking years of recharging and shooting and recharging might you see the performance go down just a little bit copyright information you can add the author's name which i recommend as well as enter copyright details you can touch the screen for this i can't because i'm plugged in but yeah this is where i would put my name jared polin froknowsphoto okay back to the menu but yeah that's where you put your copyright information i recommend that you do that manual's in software url if you want to read the actual manual hold your phone up to this and get the qr code and launch that we don't need to know the certification logo and firmware is currently version 1.2.0 for us but when it's time to update firmware this is where you will go to update that firmware now we have a pretty important menu here this is the orange one because this is where we get into our custom settings a little later on but we've got exposure level increments one-third is fine iso at one-third speed from metering iso a lot of the stuff i just leave the way that it is bracketing auto cancel same thing as on yep number of brackets so bracket shots means that if you want if it's set to three it's gonna take one picture at the right exposure one one stop over one one stop under or how however you decide to set it but you could do that up to seven shots so you could do seven shots there that's what bracketing does and safety shift i have absolutely no idea what that is let me let me hit info shutter speed aperture to prevent under or overexposed in oh i absolutely leave this off yep so we just leave this off because i don't want the camera to make some decisions for me moving on to number two we've got same exposure for new aperture this is actually pretty interesting um you can be like okay i want it to keep the same iso if the aperture switches just hit the help menu here this is an interesting one to read that i actually didn't know existed and in theory if it makes sense when the iso speed reaches the the expand iso speed or iso shutter speed or at the minimum maximum speed the camera may adjust shutter speed wow so the camera may actually help you out if you need to help out i still personally leave this off but it's nice to know that you have that option there next up auto exposure lock mode for after focus it's just set for this one for evaluative metering this is something that i personally don't use at all restrict shooting modes is currently off i want to see what that says restricting available shooting modes makes shooting mode selection faster oh actually i mean i don't ever change the modes i only change it from video to photo so if i could kind of enable this and get rid of some of these other ones yeah i could go in here and say i don't want auto and fv or p or tv or av or any of this stuff i just want manual and c1 i could totally set that myself set shutter speed range i don't change that and i don't change set aperture range either custom function menu number three dial direction um i leave this set where it is i mean if you really want your shutter speed and aperture to go the opposite way you could do that but i'm so used to doing it one way and it's the we'll call it the natural way or the native way that they have set is what i would do same thing with control rotation now this is where it gets interesting and in depth customize buttons what i mean by in-depth is you have a lot of options to go through here these are all the buttons that are mappable let's say i want to change this button now it's set for you see the camera that's telling me that it's for camera mode for still mode if we're in the camera the video camera mode then that means that's going to affect that button for just videos so it's still or videos it's great so we can go here and be like oh i don't want those options i want to go through here and maybe put this in there you could put that in there so if you know what these settings are you're like oh i want to quickly be able to go to movie recording or i want to do dial function settings you could put that and map that to this particular button so you go in here play around with what you like but if you want to change the function of the button on the lens you got that right here for photo and you got that right there for video same thing on customized dials you can customize these dials what do we want them to do what would i like this one to do right now it's on aperture but maybe i would like it to be iso maybe i would like it to be white balance you got to figure that out for yourself it's personal preference but you can map out all of these buttons and and that's how you get to the control ring on a lens there's a lot of the rf lenses have control rings so this is where you would set how you want the control ring to work what do you want it to operate so if you wanted to operate the aperture you can do av and you can change aperture from that or iso which i don't recommend doing i kind of just actually deactivate it personally and i turn it off because i don't want that ring to be accidentally hit and do something i don't actually want it to do steven should we clear customized settings no the answer is no because we just set them so don't do that uh four add copyright information i'm not sure why that isn't just in the other menu where you added your copyright information but yep i want all my copyright in for oh that says cropping let me take that back no i'm taking it back we're keeping in my mistakes steven it i thought it said copyright info my eyes are bad um it says cropping information off leave it off audio compression is currently on this is something that we do disable correct steven yeah steven's the audio master here we do we disable that default erase option yeah you hit the trash can the oscar the grouch and then you have to verify it um you've got that release shutter without lenses is off i'm not sure why they allow you to take pictures with just a without a memory card in there but they don't want you to take pictures if the lens isn't on the only time you would ever do this is back in the day wedding photographers who didn't have macro lenses used to take their lens and reverse it like missy elliott style mush and they'd reverse it and they could shoot through it and it would kind of be a really crappy macro lens it was interesting i don't really recommend you do it retract lens on power off you want that on add iptc information is currently off and i i leave that off as well and we're not going to clear all custom functions and the final menu here for photos is my menu which used to be a really popular menu for me because it's what you can custom set you're like oh i want to add something to this menu okay let's see let's configure it and let's select item to register okay dual roll i want to get to there quickly so i put that there and i hit oh i already did this so i want to put the iso settings there we can add that there and now we can go back and they're there and so you can see i added two things to my menu that i want to be able to quickly get to but there's something that steven calls a hidden gem my menu display is currently on normal but if you do display from my menu tab anytime you hit the menu button from here on out it's going to launch right to this green tab you can still swipe through and get to the other ones but now you don't have to like swipe through six different colors to get to my menu you can get there pretty darn quick so that takes us through setting up your camera for shooting stills now it's time to move into setting up your camera and menus for shooting video and the good news is some of the stuff is the same throughout this so it won't take as long to get through but something very important is movie record quality we go in here and you can see your different options movie record size we hit enter and on the top row you can see the different size options that you have you have 8k d which is cinema 8k then you have 8k u which is uhd 16x9 which is where we generally recommend that you live then you have 4kd 4k u and then fhd now that's on the top row as you go down to the next row you can see you have your different frame rates if you can select it it will let you select it if you can't it can't but i'm pretty sure it's graying it out right now because we're plugged in to the hdmi port and on the bottom you have your raw your all i ipb and then ipb looks like compress light ipb light generally we stay in all i that's going to give us the best quality without having to shoot raw raw is going to be a much larger file popping back out we've got high frame rate is currently disabled if we go in here and we enable it that's going to give us the ability to select right here 4k 120 and keep in mind that you do not get audio recording when you are shooting in 120. so let me go ahead and disable this because then you have 4k hq mode which is currently disabled now that's going to give you the highest quality 4k it's 8k down sampled to 4k which is a really nice quality video popping back out the next thing we have in menu 1 is sound recording we've got auto is currently set you have options to go ahead and do manual you can see that as i turn this dial let me go to record level as i turn the dial you can watch as it goes down the record level so if it's something super loud you're shooting a concert and you want that to be really down you're going to dial it all the way down hopefully we can shoot concerts again and then as you dial it up you can see that my voice right there that's about right at 12 db that's looking good but what you don't want is it to peak into the red be like red it's peaking so that's what you don't want now if you don't know a lot about auto i keep doing that if you don't know a lot about audio you can go in here and leave it on auto but you also have the option to disable it but remember if you disable it you no longer will be recording audio inside of the camera we've got the wind filter i usually keep this disabled because i it compresses the audio really bad with the the wind filter and then you have attenuator is currently disabled now if you're going to be shooting in auto attenuator should be enabled now look i'm talking loud but it's not peaking it's doing a good job and then i'm going to talk low but it keeps the levels right where they need to be see see that so yeah that's give you gives you a good representation of what you are looking at number two we've got exposure compensation we already know what that does uh iso speed settings it's going to be similar to that with what you do with stills but you can go in here and set it if you want it to be auto iso you could do that or you could lock it in yourself auto iso is not a terrible place to be if you're running and gunning just go ahead and set the max for auto so that you can basically say hey don't go above this or that next we have hdrpq settings we leave these on off but if you're going to go ahead and want to shoot in hdrpq you're going to want to play around in this menu setting then we've got auto lighting optimizer we leave this off we've got highlight tone priority is off as well next up we have aperture uh being able to set this to 1 8 increments which is pretty cool so instead of one third increments you can dial it into like f4 when seven eighths and you can just keep dialing it in and it gives you more control over your aperture jumping into menu number three we've got white balance so just like with photos remember your white balance is going to be locked in when you are shooting video you could also do custom white bounce same thing with that gray card you've got white balance correction other options there picture style remember this you go in here if it's set to standard that's what you're baking in to your video so when you do that if you wanted to shoot in monochrome remember you're only going to get monochrome video it's baking that in so make sure you get your settings as close as possible with your picture style before you start shooting your videos now if you want to take more control over your files you can shoot in canon log settings that's basically going to give you a much flatter video that you then can tweak in post-production in your editing software to give you basically you have more control but you also have to do a heck of a lot more work and of course with clarity if you pump that up and you over do it with your with your video it's not something you can really undo uh at that point so just be careful with those settings lens aberration correction i leave that the way it is high iso speed noise reduction this is another thing that i disable i don't like the camera doing any noise reduction as i said earlier we've got hdr movie recording is currently off i don't have access to it because i'm plugged into the hdmi port right now but this is something that you can do if you want to do hdr recording as well as time lapse movie time lapse movie is great if you are you know like shooting the stars and you're like oh look time lapse movie or you want to have yourself just sitting there you could do a time lapse of yourself sitting there basically whatever you want to do you can do are you tired of your friends and family looking at your photos and saying these are the greatest things ever and you're not really sure because you don't trust their opinions because they're not a professional photographer but you want to get a professional photographer's opinion well why don't you let me be your mentor head on over to froknowsphoto.com mentorship because over there you can sign up for two different things one is a 45 minute live mentorship call on zoom with me and the other is a 15 minute recorded rapid fire critique so if you want to get some real feedback about your work go ahead and sign up for one of those two options now let's get back to the video movie self timer it's one of those modes that i don't activate uh it's basically like if you wanted to take a picture of yourself you could have the timer set but here if you want to do video of yourself i could set the camera press the button go sit down and then in 10 seconds the video would start recording back in the day that made more sense but now that you have the the app the canon connect app it's just easier to use that to start and stop plus you can check your focus it's a heck of a lot easier so i'm not sure why that's there you've got remote control currently disabled but if you have a remote that is where you would enable it we've got is image stabilization modes it's currently on then you have digital is which is currently off but if you're going to be in more of a shaky situation and you want more than just the optical stabilization this is going to give you some digital stabilization for your video but it's going to crop in just a little bit so if you don't really need it you don't really want to use it next up shutter button function for movies this is actually pretty cool you can sit here and see see what to do with a full press like oh with a full press nothing's activated but if we want to start and stop the video from there you could just be like okay i want to be able to start and stop with a full press press it all the way get record or you could just hit the record button that's up top start and stop with that that's personal preference as well metering time still eight seconds zebras settings you can go in here and turn on zebra lines that's going to help you see where you have blown out exposures in the background you have a lot of control over what you can do with your zebras here but those of you who know how to shoot video or know a lot more about video can go in here or know what zebras do but you can activate them and it's going to help see where your blown out highlights are shooting info display just like with stills you can set the shooting info how you would like it you can see where it says info to edit screen that gives you more control over what's on the screen and what's not so you're like oh i don't want something well you could turn that off so just go in here see what settings you like to have on while you're looking at the back screen and there you go for that but also you've got viewfinder info settings same thing we want to change more we can go into info here i'm like oh i want this to show up and i want that to show up you can turn that stuff toggle it on and off and then you can hit ok and that's going to be your settings when you're looking through the viewfinder so you have a lot of customizable controls of what you see if you like to have a lot on the screen you can have a lot if you like to have a little you can also have a little grid display i currently have that off i do keep that off but if you want it for lines and getting those straight you might want to turn that on histogram display we like that to have the the brightness i i like brightness basically brightness is giving you the the histogram for the exposure and then if you go to rgb that's going to give you the histogram the color histogram but personally i don't even know how to read that thing so i just stick with it for uh the exposure now display size large or small small is good enough because you don't need it taking up a lot of your viewfinder and then we've got focus distance display here in manual focus you could change the unit from meters to feet or whichever you would like it to be next up it's viewfinder display format display one display two display one display two just like we talked about before if you have glasses on it's gonna make it smaller so that you can still see the full display i stick with display one because i like to shove my eye as far into the viewfinder as humanly possible we've got overheating control that's something that you want on you may run into this if you're shooting 8k video and by may you still may run into it so depending on the heat and and how hot it is where you're shooting or how long you're shooting uh it's good to have that warning on to let you know now we are shooting with the 4k hq not on because we're doing 4k for much longer periods of time and we don't have any overheating with that now with our 4k shooting with the current firmware that we have when we shoot 4k hq we can squeeze out about an hour or so depending on how we're shooting and depending on the room temperature so it's really not that bad just keep in mind that if you're going to be shooting for long periods of time it may you may end up overheating just a little bit next up is hdmi display now if you're going to be doing external monitoring like we are this is a mode you're one again you're going to want to get familiar with then you've got time code if you're doing multiple cameras and you want to sync it based off of a time code this is where you would go to do that next we move on to autofocus methods very similar to what it was in the still menu we have the smiley face af smiley face lock on you can go through all of these as well i really love this one the lock-on tracking because it will find people's faces it will find people's eyes it's great if you're you're videoing yourself it's great if you're videoing subjects it's unbelievable to see how well this works eye detection i leave enabled because i like to have that movie servo af i have enabled that means you don't have to hold your finger on the shutter for it to continuously focus halfway down on the shutter it's going to continuously focus there we've got touch and drag af settings it's currently disabled but like with stills we can enable this and i like oh it's on the right so now it's enabled it's right where i need to be with my thumb if i need to move the focusing points to tell it where to go focusing modes auto focus or manual focus that's where you can go to make that change now we've got the manual focus peaking settings you could turn this on of course you can change the highlight level to high or low and you can change the color of the focus peaking now peaking is meant to help you find those edges those sharp edges when you're manually focusing and it gives you a color representation of that in your viewfinder and focus guide is you turn that on that's going to give you that guide with those triangles that when you line it up in the middle it turns green and now you are in focus number three we've got movie servo speed movie servo af speed you can have that uh when active it's always on and if you're photographing or videoing someone like me that's moving fast all the time and you want to you want it to pick up really fast you can just pump it up two more stops from the default where it was set and it's going to be much faster but if you want more of that cinematic pull you can go slower but just know that it's going to be a slower focus there we do it faster for what we do so we usually pump it up to to keep up with me movie servo af track sensitivity you've got what's called locked on or you've got responsive look we also have info it will tell us what it does adjust the responsiveness of the movie servo af according to the creative look of your movie and preferred focus transition speed when the subject moves from af points lock-on responds less sensitive to other objects when the main subject moves from af points yeah so with locked on if you want it to be on a specific subject and then say a giraffe walks by and you're like i don't want the giraffe i want the zebra it's hopefully going to stay on the zebra now i wonder if zebra lines would look like with a zebra huh would their white parts be blown out and i heard that they're actually brown and that's not black lines i don't know but i don't know what they would do so that's what lock on and responsive is right there lens electronic manual focus i leave all this set the exact way that it is i rarely go in and manual focus when i'm doing video switch tracked subjects of course initial priority you've got switch subjects it's just how long will it stay on that subject if another subject comes into view this will determine that lens drive when af is impossible we want it to continually try to find autofocus we don't want it to stop so we leave that on you've got limit af methods say we're never going to use these just like with stills goodbye we don't want you we turn them off af method selection control we keep it with the mfn button activated the number four focus ring rotation leave that as is rf lens mf focus ring sensitivity you could change this if you want it faster or slower next up we have sensitivity of the af points that are selected it's still set to plus one uh that's how we set it for stills that's going to be how fast those focusing points move around the screen i don't know why you would want them to move slow unless you just have trouble chasing it around like one of those mouses on the computer but yeah we we leave that set to plus one next up image playback this is going to be exactly the same for stills so we we leave it here we already went over the wireless menu we already went over setting up the entire camera through the wrench menu not much more has changed here as we go through you can see it's basically some basically everything that was there before and if there's anything different it's just super minor but it's basically the same as what you would see with your stills you still have your battery information the resetting of the camera which we're not doing and then you also have the custom setting menu the orange this is all going to be the same pretty much as well we already set some of this stuff before so it's going to be the same as we said it before and there's not much else to say there just do not clear all of your custom functions if you already set your custom functions and then finally you have your my menu which is exactly the same as it was when we set it for stills so now let me show you what you see on your screen when you are shooting video as well as when you hit the q button so on the screen right now you can see on the top left that it you are shooting in manual video you see the little hand that's waving at you that's letting you know that you have your is on you have what your focusing mode is next to that you've got your 4k video you get so you can see what frame rate you're shooting in you have your headphone volume we've got the servo mode down below your timer is currently off which is next to that you've got your shutter speed which is set to 150th currently you can see that i'm dialing it up and then your aperture is at two point eight slash four eighths that's because we change it to those one-eighth increments and you can see what that looks like right there to the right of that you've got your iso is currently set to auto your uh optimize lighting optimizer is off picture styles on standard auto white balance and the number two that you see is the card that we would be recording to now back to the time you've got 29.59 left of record time and then the battery indicator is right next to that now the mfn button when i go ahead and hit that you can see this is a quick button that cycles through a bunch of different options very similar to what you would find in your q menu but this is something that you can do when your eye is up to the viewfinder and you want to quickly change the iso you hit the mfn button and then boom i turn that top dial and that's making the change of iso and i go back to auto right there so let me get that back here hit the q menu oop let me hit ok hit the q menu and now this is your quick menu it's without having to dive deep into your menu settings for video you have access to all of these different options you can see that we can change the different focusing point options you have all that oh look at that and it skipped those last three because we turned those off before right below there we have your movie record size so if you want to make a change from here you could just hit ok and then you can select just like we did in the menu system it quickly gets you where you need to go so we get out of here hit q again right below here is your headphone volume you can see that i'm turning the top dial and that is changing the volume and you see your levels as well and that's the q menu for video now let's jump into the q menu for stills so here we go at the top you can still see the same thing that you can choose which focusing modes that you want to use below that is servo or one shot so continuous autofocus versus one shot we talked about that earlier you can change that there this is where you're going to change whether you're in raw or jpeg we want to set raw like yes i want raw selected so i want raw there boom we would have raw selected but it's also set to jpeg i don't want jpeg large i just want raw so there i change that right there now this is frame rate so if you wanted to shoot a lot of pictures you can be in the high plus mode if you want to just do single shot you would go here to high plus to high speed continuous low speed you have your timers here as well so that's where you would select those below there is your metering mode i generally don't change that any longer being that i can see everything right in my face but you've got your partial metering your spot metering as well as center weighted average generally speaking you stick it and leave it in evaluative metering over here we've got anti-shot flicker is really good to have in case you get into a flickering situation you can hit the q menu to get right here to activate that you've got your white balance your picture styles you've got your auto lighting optimizer as well as whether you're going to shoot full frame 1-1 3 or if you want to activate that 1.6 crop mode steven do you want to show everybody the uh the the iaf in action yep all right so we're going to get the bobble head out here again and show you iaf in action oh hold on i've got to get my exposure more right because i'm only at 100 iso so i'm going to go into the oh i'm going to hit the mfn button hold on mfn and i'm going to dial my iso up yep oh so good at this and there you go go ahead move them around a little let me let me change my aperture watch you guys see the screen changing you see the you see this you can hold it for a second steven i'm just speeding up my aperture but you can see that we have the simulation live in front of my face so like that is totally overexposed this is going to be totally underexposed and then this is going to be pretty close to just about right but now i'm going to hold the button halfway down it's actively staying on his eye steven's moving around so you can see as i move it's staying locked on his eyes so you can take it all the way to the edges and all the way around so that iaf is really powerful so now let me just show you what's on the screen you can see you've got manual we're selected in m next to that is how many shots you will get the hundred the 1036 we've got left on this card that's 51 left in the buffer then you've got 29.59 it's just letting you know that if you did shoot video you would have that record time right there your battery indicator the hello waving sign that's what i call it that is that you have is on so back under manual you've got your focus modes whether you're in servo below that you see raw with the card two selected then you can see that that's self timer right below there then you have your metering options and then to the right you can see that anti-flicker is off it's basically the same thing that you find in your q menu it's pretty self-explanatory what's here we've gone through a ton of information in this r5 user's guide and before we wrap up this user's guide i do want to show you right here i hit the play button to come in to see one of these images if i hit the magnifying glass it zooms in you can see that i can move around with the joystick or you can just pinch to zoom on the screen i don't have that option because of what i'm because we're plugged into this right now but if we hit the info button you can see how the info changes for how we had it set you can see your histogram all of your settings and we're just cycling through just like that now if you wanted to delete this image you would you could hit the trash can go over hit erase which i'm not gonna do because i don't like being in the habit of deleting photos on the camera and you can swipe through or you can just turn the dial and it's gonna get through the different images that you have on your card so yes this is a long video if you got this far hashtag i got this far down below i want to thank you guys very much for watching please don't forget to give this a thumbs up and don't forget to subscribe so you don't miss any of the videos that we have coming out but if you do want to check out the past archives there's 3 000 videos up there for you to check out that are fun and informative so once again thank you for watching jared polin dot froknowsphoto.com see ya

Channel: Jared Polin

Views: 84,311

Keywords: FroKnowsPhoto, Jared Polin, I SHOOT RAW, User's Guide, Canon Manual, Canon EOS R6, Canon EOS R5, Canon EOS R, Canon EOS R3, Canon EOS R1, Canon Rumors, Canon how to, how to set up, camera, dslr, mirrorless, review, guide, set up, camera setup, best camera, bird photography, sports photography, canon RF, lens, first camera, Canon EOS, Canon M6, canon m50 mark ii, Canon Photography, canon auto focus, shutter speed, aperture, ISO, exposure, tutorial, Canon EOS R5 User's Guide

Id: 97wC1pVuUII

Length: 93min 26sec (5606 seconds)

Published: Tue May 18 2021