Bulldozer six way blade conversion

not bad for a bunch of rusty metal still a little wet so i can't open the door or anything i need one more coat on the door still a little bit striped i probably should have filled those but whatever it's a bulldozer who cares too should be tits when it's all done i think hydraulic tank the same way yeah one little pinhole right there i should have filled as weld but finish isn't the best either whatever good now oh cutting the piece out for the bushing support to the front of the dozer this would be the blade pivot that lets it go like this and should be able to put some nice holiday steel bushings in it i have a piece of two-inch marnell left over from uh rudder build so screw it i'm gonna use it and see how it wears could wear really good it's got a really high wear ratio anyways cut this off and then i've got to slice those off this will get uh that's three and a quarter outside two and a quarter inside that'll get poured out to two and three eighths just where the bushings dried and it gets welded into the front triangular and then the part that goes on the blade goes over the top a little more part of it for the rotation or tilt yeah i guess you'd call it tilt on the 1010 john deere dozer that i'm rebuilding restoring making way better anyways so that's one part of it and then the other part that circular part goes over here that's the other side of it and that rides in the banana-shaped track um and it just so happened that i had some spare bottom slides from rebuilding the bottom slides for the yokes on the front of the dozer for the chain tensioners for the track tensioners anyways these are from the parts dozer and they were just a little bit wore more than i wanted to use but once i cut into them they more than i wanted to use for the actual yolk but when i cut into them to get the shape in right for this it got back into good material again and they're freaking perfect they'll let me put like two maybe eighth inch spacers under them uh you know as shims so that you'll be able to tighten it down as it wears um but yeah they work freaking perfect i'm gonna drill them for one more in each so there'll be three 5 8 bolts on that and uh are six 5 8 bolts on that side and six five eighths bolts on that side which will go like here here and here here here and here because i i was gonna weld it but then i got thinking if this ever needs to be serviced which it will be i would imagine it's going to need to be hard faced eventually i mean this is just regular well it's a piece of c-channel structural steel that i uh chopped the middle out of because i've got a bunch of it and i need some thick plate so uh but yeah this will probably end up getting hard faced at one point or another and then i'll chuck it back up in the lathe and face it back down to brand new again but um yeah so i'm gonna make these bolt on and off but getting there i've got a ton of parts cut and ready for this already that all gets mounted there's a bunch of them in there four of them two of them get welded to the u-frame that uh attaches it to the dozer the blade to the dozer and then two of them get welded to the what is the bottom right now back side of that and then there'll be an ear on each side that the cylinders attach to and that'll give you your tilt this way and then there will also be a cylinder attached right here that'll have a total of ten inches of throw five either way and that'll give you your tilt rotation but yeah anyways shops are freaking mess right now oh and the box is all done i don't know if i did a clip on this yet or not but the box is done i really wish i'd filled that pitting on the door in but i don't know maybe i'll put a sticker over it but yeah it's ready to go in the machine i chipped some of the paint like a dick bag but um it uh yeah everything works the way it's supposed to that's your float and then that's the winch everything works good these might let a little water in but i don't know not not enough to worry about i think but they're also not right oh well i guess that one's over the valve a little bit but i just figured that this should have a boot and a kind of a gutter so that the water can't can't uh get in there as easy it's not perfect i had to rip it a little bit or cut it to get it over the tee i should have made that bolt on but anyways uh returns all done i actually had to make that fittings they didn't feel like waiting but that's just a basically it's a straight uh nipple with a swivel that i cut the swivel off of and then machined a piece of pipe with some nice uh grooves so that the clamp head and the hose had something to really grab a hold of and then that's got an actual pipe adapter in that one because it was straight and i had one and then the filter i do need a new filter i haven't got it yet this is a used housing it's a good one but then it goes down over and back up to the tank on the other side uh these are gonna be for the winch eventually or grapple maybe you might build a grapple for it that would be fun um and then the rest of the hoses all come out of the front this bolts right to the fender arm rest nice spot this should be a really sweet looking box once it's all done i will probably put some foam or felt tape type stuff for sealer not that i'm not worried about it but it'll keep it from rattling too maybe i'll do a graphic sticker on this like uh kind of up and then over and kind of break it out at that angle that would look nice and it would cover up the pitting this side has the tread plate out i figured screw it it matches the dozers mostly tread plate too i should have should have put the tread plate out on all of it but oh well i did the top and the inside call it good this is what i had good enough this one's getting a little longer oh maybe bring you back when i put that box on talk about just fitting i had to use v blocks to stand the clamps because it's so close to the edge but golden got the swinger over but be good oh let's see spot drill everything then let's see we'll drill them out i'll probably tap them right in it yeah yeah um gotta tap them out to 5 8 and off to the races once i get those four uh drilled and tapped or dir actually no those don't get tapped those get tapped i forgot those are tapped so i need to drill i need to put those on it tighten them up drill through the center where i'm going to put the third bolt in each one take it uh back off drill it to the size it needs to be on this and then those will get clamped up in the vise and i'll drill and tap that second hole i don't know maybe i'll just tap it by hand now we'll see anyway i'll bring you back a little bit oh i just got done power tapping those i just use a drill check on this because it's that's a big bit so it's pretty hard to break a tap that big especially a straight flute tap like that so anyways yep drilled them tapped them i drove them a little offset tried to spread the bolt pattern out a little bit also it just looks better to me that way to have them kind of spread out different areas i don't know i guess it's the woodworking side of me coming out i'm used to doing that trying not to line the grains up to split them so anyways they're not perfect i don't know eventually i might build a little weld up right here we'll see how it wears but these you know these were the original uh slides for the yolks on the parts dozer so there's still a lot of good meat there and the taper matches the taper on the banana shaped piece on the blade so um yeah anyways i just popped this one loose it's um worked pretty good i just slowly kind of turned it on and off you know on the lowest speed it's like 50 rpm or something yeah there's those oh so anyways um wipe that off real quick and drop it on the floor so those go like that from here like that kind of close anyways like that and they'll get a spacer plate behind them um they'll get some shims behind them to shim them to be just right and you know it should wear in a little bit fast in the beginning because not everything's perfect fit but as soon as it wears in and the faces kind of start matching up i'll be able to tell where i can add some weld and maybe subtract or subtract some weld or material and that'll you know when it wears in a little bit it'll get to a point where it slows right down because all the faces start to match up really good um you know this isn't 3d printed or anything so it's not going to be perfect uh i think i'm going to have to nip this corner off a little bit on this um just cut like a triangle out and fold the end in and weld it back together because it looks like that is gonna drop below the blade a little bit when it's all the way tilted to that side i guess this way um but we'll see i'm gonna wait to mess with it until it's on it and we'll see how far it rotates compared to the angle of the blade and stuff once i get to that point if i gotta take it back apart real quick to slice that out no big deal um but yeah getting pretty close ready to weld them suckers on there all right so these are ready to go on just to kind of test fit that's how they came out chamfer got some bolts i'm gonna i they uh didn't have all the bolts that i needed so i'm gonna reuse some that i cleaned up for right now and then i will probably buy all the brand new ones we'll see well my whole alignment's good that's what i like about drilling stuff right in place really you ain't gonna worry about it it's good those are the bolts for the other side so there obviously needs to be tightened up but i can also clean it up add weld to it whatever i need to these are forged so they weld pretty decent they're either forged or cast seal they seem like forgings for such a simple part i would imagine it probably was forged uh and it's a high wear item so yeah anyways the uh they fit good i kind of hope i don't have to trim that off because i think the cylinder mount needs to be as low as it possibly can so yeah i would rather leave that material there and be able to drop it down and not have to have such a high guard we're gonna add to the blade right now it's just a square straight edge top blade uh and for the six way since the piston sticks up so much we're gonna have to come up with you know like triangles on each side and a square on the front kind of like the newer dozers are but yeah getting there cool oh we're doing some power tapping the cheapo away i do have a tapping head but it's not big enough to handle a 5 8 so here we go make sure i'm lined up close enough for government work and repeat forgot to move the clamp oh let's see that's it hmm i'm gonna have to totally move it and drove it too far there's that shoot well we're just gonna have to well no i can pull it into that side there we go a little sauce over there tapped baby blow them out and let's try it bald you know oh i got a ball first feels good to me and maybe i'll champion a little bit that just might be the bolt yeah the bolts a little funky on the end i bet if i grab one of the used ones i bet they go right in there yeah that bolt's just got a little funny spot on the end off to clean up for the final yeah cause these ones going great yeah cool that means that that part of it is done and i can bolt it together and try it sweet um i will bring you guys back once i get it bolted onto the machine well the blade i'll bolt it on the blade and we can try it out and see if it slides the way i think it's going to be just so you know until my um my new one shows up i got another see that no go holder right there that's one of the big boy noga holders i got one of those coming and i'm gonna put a phone and iphone mount on it and then eventually i'll probably get a gopro or something along the lines of that but this works i just clamped the phone in it at the angle i want it works pretty freaking good well there's that boredom out to final size chamfered it it's all prepped ready for weld you get a lot cleaner of a you know clean up uh using this even with the chatter i don't really care about chatter the weld is going to cover it up anyways but you just get a lot cleaner of a setup and prep for welding machining it instead of grinding it and it's uh you know the shop doesn't smell like nasty rusty metal so i gotta do the same thing to that one and then that's the sleeve i made yesterday that is set up for that's like it's just like just barely under three and a quarter on the outside it's like three 240 uh which is exactly what i just bored that to so that should slide right in you know it's slip fit so that i can weld it and have just a tiny bit of wiggle room probably hardly at any at all i might even have to heat it up to get it to go because i really did they're they're both at 3 240 so um but yeah that gets a couple of hardened bushings and then the two inch pin so there'll be a little bit of a thin bushing but i'll just have to keep an eye on them and i'm gonna grease zerk this i was kind of thinking about buying some seals for it too but i don't know it's you know it's a dozer i feel like seals are just gonna get shredded so but anyways um yeah i'm uh probably gonna chuck up the other one and board out see how they fit i still have to grind all the freaking paint off of it where i'm gonna weld everything to it and that's just gonna be a pain yes but anyways uh and then these ones get bored for two inch and then they get like a square thickening plate um so that you know just to beef it up the pin doesn't move in that i think i'm gonna do a square thickening plate and then like a piece of half inch plate on top of the pin that's drilled in three or four places and uh so it bolts the pin down i mean it's honestly gravity would hold it no problem it probably would never come out but you know might as well do it right so it'll get drilled and tapped so that you can bolt the pin right to it and then you know when i make the pin i will make a piece for the outside that's bored out so i can weld it on on the outside so it's a nice smooth fit but yeah looking pretty good i'm probably gonna radius the corners of this just to kind of clean it up and make it look a little nicer i was gonna chop it back but i figure unless i have to for clearance i might as well leave it for extra strength yeah oh yeah and also so this is the top one that's the bottom one the bottom one spreads across the whole thing the u piece that uh you know raises the blade up and down just because it already had a crack and it's been fixed so i figure screw it a few more pounds of steel you know it'll help the blade bite in when you're floating uh but anyways the i set it up so this thickness is a half inch under what the frame width is there where it's going to get welded to it so you should be able to clean it up and put a nice fillet weld along the back uh i'll weld it obviously underneath and on these sides but the it's set up so that when i put that sleeve in there and it's welded to the top and to the bottom i'll be able to uh put some like it'll be right against it so i might put like a nice root pass in there and then a couple of pieces of like one inch by half inch uh plate that spreads you know between these that ties that to it just as added you know trying to make this as absolutely bulletproof as i can bring you back enough should be able to get a nice fat weld good root pass enough room for bushings and the best part the reason why i left it long so it pokes through is so that i know that the bushing bore is in line the whole way um i think i'm probably gonna push the bushings in and cap them before i weld it in and that way if the bore gets a little funky or anything from welding which it shouldn't because it's really heavy wall uh mechanical pipe but and the plates are 5 8. i have a better chance of keeping everything in line and true so that i know that the pin will slide through i don't well i mean i guess i could get out the line boring stuff and the mag drill and line bore this when it was all finished if i had to but i really don't want to i've got a decent finish on everything i think it'll be good so hopefully i just got a bunch of cleanup grinding to do kind of clean the edges up radius them over i decided i'm not gonna trim anything off i'm just gonna kind of round the edges and i gotta clean up a bunch of rust off of it and stuff it's not too bad this it's really just surface rust but and then on the piece from the dozer i've got to clean all the paint off of that but yeah the big ones at the bottom the small ones the top you'll realize why when i get it on there you can see somebody added some corner plates and some stiffening stuff to it that made it so that this pretty much had to be like this if they hadn't done that i would have made them both the size of the bigger bottom one so that it spread the whole thing but this will be good it'll be plenty strong there's a lot of material there some of that is going to be over an inch and a half of steel between the three layers that are there so it'll be plenty strong to do whatever we need to do yeah should be good well that's what i got done today a bunch of spatter to clean up on it but looks pretty good i think i got one funny spot right there but i think it's just a slag inclusion i'll clean it up with a die grinder and put a little dot on there with the tig welder just to fill it in but yeah not bad you gotta weld along that bottom seam i need to put two i already did the root pass on the back but now i need to clean it up with the grinder and put a couple of big thick filler passes on top which means i need to pick it up like that so i get a nice smooth weld in there i figure screw it if i've got it off and i can move it around i might as well move it into the position where it welds the best and easiest so that's what i'm gonna do and then it needs to be stood up the other way so i can weld down in there all the way across underneath uh and then it needs to be flipped so i can do basically everything i just did but on the bottom side of all of it then clean it up with the flap wheel kind of round the corners i need to mic the bore again in there to make sure that it's still round and good and if it isn't then i need to re-bore it just to make sure everything's lined up again true i suppose it's not too big i probably could just pick it up with the crane and swing it over and put it in the mill and just hold it with the crane same way i did the boat trailer but i don't know we'll see i'm hoping that they didn't come out around too awful much um if they're still round but undersized i'll just cut some bushings that are undersized a little bit more than what i would have normally and i'll throw them in it's you know it's a one-off it doesn't need to be to spec or anything like that i bored that to two inches deep two and three-eighths wide which left me with about a 7 16 wall thickness all the way around and yeah or 3 8 wall thickness all the way around sorry but anyways getting there i'll have this blade on there soon enough then it's time to do a bunch of hydraulics a bunch more hydraulics there she is the bushings pressed in i grooved them and spiral cut them get the grease out where it needs to be um i'm going to gun drill the pin and pop it in the middle of each bushing champ for the holes so that it'll be easy to grease there'll be one grease zerk oh this is the bottom so it'll be on top in the middle of the pin probably weld a piece of pipe around it keep it from getting beat up i might even put a piece of yeah i will i'll put a piece of pipe that's threaded and that way i can put an npt cap on it with a you know so that it's totally protected so i'll be able to take the piece off and grease it put it back on don't worry about dirt and all that crap but i was thinking about capping these holes trying to stiffen it up but it's it doesn't really need it it's it's good not my best welds but it's hard to weld in a circle with an arc welder but they were chamfered so there's a big thick root pass and then you know a nice fat wash bead on top to kind of tie it together everything is fully welded all the way around welded welded welded the welds really look like crap because i beat on them with the air hammer i need to get a new needle scaler um needle scaler works a lot better and does a lot less damage to the weld as you can see i mean the welds they're not beautiful but they really look like crap once they get all beat up with the air hammer not that it matters a little bit of undercut on that not bad though um yeah i still need to press the bushing in on the bottom i got the top one in and i made the cardinal rule mistake of not oversizing the bore because it's a press fit bushing and i might have gone a little heavy i went four thousandths on the press fit probably should have done two but i wanted him to really be in there because this takes such a beating i didn't want him to get you know loosened up so that means now i need to chuck it up in the middle machine again which is going to be a pain in the butt but i should be able to do it easy enough and bore it to back to two inch one thou so that it's got a thou clearance for that pin and yeah this part will be done once the bush the other one's pressed in i'm gonna take the other bushing chuck it back up in the lathe center it and cut probably three thou off of it at least um so that when i press that one in it's i won't have to line bore that side i'll be able to just bore this side and good to go and then those triangles need to be cut off and flipped i'm gonna put this one on that side and that one on this side and that way the straight up and down which is the back right now doesn't look like it because the angle that it's at but that is straight up and down that'll be facing forward and it'll be right about here so the pin holes are in the same spot the triangle faces backwards and that'll give me enough room right here to put a piston on each side to run this back and forth um and then those get welded back on uh i need to put some track pad guides on the side somewhere to keep it perfectly centered because i want to use three inch pistons and with three inch pistons there's only like a half inch clearance on each side so i don't know i might have to downgrade to two and a half inch pistons which sucks because that means i would have to either buy them or make them don't really want to do that i would rather use the pistons that i have but we'll cross that bridge when we get to it um then i need to chop out right here just a little bit uh so that the rod from the piston which will be coming from this side will have clearance and then i'm going to take that piece and weld it on the other side to fill in the hole from where it was before it should look factory because these are two stamped pieces and then there's a seam weld so that seam weld will match up with the seam weld on the back side so it'll look you know if i clean it up it should look pretty factory from the research that i've done it looks like that's how they did the six-way blades right from the factory anyways they used the same u-frame those were flipped uh and then it looks to me like they use the same pistons that i'm using which are the leftover pistons from the blade up and down that from the parts machine which are they're okay they're a little pitted on the not pitted but rusty on the shaft so i might make some new shafts for them but they're rods oh excuse me hiccups um but like i said we'll we'll see when we get there if i can't use those then i'm going to have to figure something else out i don't really want to go below like jace not even i don't even want to use a two inch piston because i don't think it'll have enough pressure to do what i want to do it's it's nice to be able to pop stumps out and stuff for the corner of the blade that's the main reason that i'm putting a six-way blade on it but yeah there's some substantial meat here this is this is like inch and a half thick now because it was reinforced after uh someone cracked it and then they put this bottom cap on this plate on and then another plate under here so there's the original square tube which is half inch like this then there's a piece of three quarter on top three quarter gusset then there's the 5 8 or 11 16 pieces that i put on so it's there's a substantial amount of steel there uh but yeah a little bit of paint and some boring and i should be able to flip it over take it outside and slice those right on the weld with the plasma cutter clean them up flip them around weld them back on you know make sure they're all straight and true well there's those made that one's a doubler and that one is for putting the pin through and from what i've seen on most excavators that is never the same size as the pin it's always bigger by a little bit i don't know why but i figure screw it i'll copy what the big manufacturers do they know more about it than i do so yeah clean those up get them ready to weld on well i gotta drill that one first and also the pin i'm gonna space the pin in there to be like exactly the same you know like i'll space it in four spots around so it's centered in the bore of that and then i'll drill them both probably at the same time yeah or i'll probably drill through that piece and then put the shaft in it and spot drill that on one side and that way i'll know where to drill it and everything will be right anyways then that gets welded on yeah i had to fill in a piece this was a piece of used plate and it had a chunk cut out of it there so i veed it out and made a little piece to go in there and cleaned it up and then welded or machined the edges on both of them while they were stacked and then drilled them while they were stacked so everything's identical so when i weld this and this to the piece of 10 inch c channel out there that is the piece that goes on the back of the blade that lets it do this those get welded to it and everything will be nice and true and flat and plumb and square and all those good words that mean that it's right anyways um yeah i gotta go all my trash cans are full i think but yeah so coming along just got done drilling it out cross drill now it needs to be chucked back up in the lathe i'll probably face it both sides and then it gets a groove cut um that is about half inch wide all the way around to do like it's it's like a flat snap ring basically that goes over it that holds the pin in place so it can't come up it's what john deere uses on all their stuff so or used to anyways uh and i got these plates all finished they are all well prepped i shouldn't do that anyways they're all well prepped and i ended up running the i have a shitty carbide end mill it's all chipped up but works good for cutting off slag and like plasma cutting swarf and stuff so i went and cleaned them all up on all edges so i mean it'll just it'll make it go together so much better and true and smooth and all that so um and then i cleaned them up with the grinder and got ready that collar that i'm working on in the middle goes right there and this is the bottom side of the bottom one and this is the top side of the top one so the pin will go through there on the top and i was going to put a cap on the pin so it couldn't fall out even if the pin fell out but if i do that there's a possibility that it makes it really hard to get the pin extracted because you basically have to pull it out if i leave it a smooth pin and it can come out either way uh it's just i feel like it's just a better way to do it i might end up putting like drilling and tapping four holes in the bottom and making a little cover plate that goes on it so that it can't fall out until you're ready to take it out but that you know it'll still you'll be able to unbolt that cap and it gives you the option to uh drive it out the bottom or pull it out the top if you needed to but anyways those are done uh once i get that other piece done i'll tack that square and then circle onto those in the right orientation i want the pin going like this uh so it's easy to drive out and then i gotta bring the piece of c channel that's on the blade in here clean some rust up off of that where these are gonna amount and then i can clamp it all together at the right width and tack it and you know take it back apart weld it all together it should be great after that i should be able to slam it together to a certain extent and see how everything is going to work i don't want to mount it to the tractor yet until i get the hydraulic pistons on it but i need to get it all together to measure for the pistons for how much throw they are i think it needs about 20 inches of throw uh on the pistons that make it do this and then it needs 10 inches of throw for the piston that makes it do that i think we'll see once i get it probably should have made it a little thinner but and only pipe i had that was close was aluminum so screw it i used aluminum and made it a little thicker but it should be fine it's on there good it just barely rotates oh should be yeah should be able to take it off pretty easy but it's a deep enough lip where it wants to stay cool there's the setup for that well pre-test setup i guess marking everything where i need to clean it up grind the rust off of it it just so happens that a couple of parallels that i have that are ground to the same size are the exact width that that needs to be i was gonna make it eight inches but that would be like a quarter inch too much in shims or more than i'd want to so these are it's actually perfect they're seven and just under seven and seven eighths i think i don't know that's what they measure out to be so um the pit the pin boss and bushings and stuff on the dozer part are uh seven and three quarters so that'll give me an eighth inch shim to make up in between there i'll probably just do a uh like uh just a solid eighth inch one on the top and well i don't know maybe i'll do the eighth inch one on the bottom in that way if it wears out i can put a new one in easy enough i don't know we'll see i'm going to make the pin so it can drop out both ways so there'll be a cross pin right there i'm going gonna chop the top off of that that was so i could drive bushings in with it but that needs to be machined off and through drilled and then on this end i'm gonna make a cap with two bolts so that you can drive it out from either way and and um it'll be retained don't like double retained so if the pin never failed or something that a pin can't just fall if the little pin failed the big pin can't just fall out have a cap on the bottom uh the other thing i gotta do is i need to cut out this notch back there and then i need to bend from right there right here that needs to be bent three quarters of an inch that way so that i'll have enough room to weld and all that good stuff um yeah this is for clearance so that when the blade is all the way that way it doesn't drive this into the ground and cut a trench and i'll get the most amount of you know that'll give me two more inches of angle um but yeah and then i think i'm gonna plate across this across here down in and across there all to kind of box that in that should make it wicked stuff other than that it needs to come back apart be ground put back together tacked uh i'll probably throw some big clamps on it once it's tacked so it really holds its positioning i don't think i'm gonna weld it with the pin in it i've had bad luck with that in years past a couple of times um you know i would i would rather not score the pin and beat the pin all up if by chance something comes out of alignment i would rather not be able to put the pin back in and have to you know put a die grinder in there or run the ream through it or something again to get it lined back up true but usually if i tack it all in really good uh with the pin in and then take the pin out and then fully weld it usually it's really close um these have about a thou on that pin of movement so that should be enough to drive her home when it's time but well there she's all welded up i put a little too much heat on that front edge and it lifted it up about a quarter inch so tomorrow afternoon after i get done working on the boat i'm probably going to slam it into the wood splitter and see if that's got enough to bend it back it's a 25 ton wood splitter so we'll see i need to get myself i need to get myself a uh press and fill the brass um that might be a future project coming up that uh we make some videos on but so she's got quite a bit of quite a bit of angle should be good and i should have plenty of clearance for the tracks because the farthest forward the tracks are is right there where the scars are so should have oh it'll probably be like five or six inches between the tracks and the tip of the blade um i did end up cutting it and i cut a wedge out of it and folded it up and welded it back you know veed everything out or whatever but um yeah all in all it stayed really straight while i was welding it um you know besides that one spot that lifted that way but that's easy enough to fix um even if on the inside of that i have to put a big fat bead to pull it back down that's doable it's raining now um let me get back inside but yeah uh it seems to be good oh yeah where i where i folded that edge up right there where i folded that up i also had to fold up the mount a little bit and i kind of wish i hadn't i kind of wish i'd just let it taper into it because now it's coming in contact with that so i think i'm gonna have to kind of scallop that out a little bit and i might try to heat that and bend that lip down just a little bit it's so minor it's it's like you know it's stopping me from having like an inch of travel this way so not a big deal i can definitely uh figure something out to remedy that um but yeah hopefully the wood splitter's got enough pickle if not nobody else on the island has a press big enough so i'd have to probably take it to the mainland to get it straightened out which is doable that's not a big deal i could use a bunch of bottles to be filled for torch gas and welding gas so i might go over anyways and have them do it if it doesn't i can't get it to straighten it out but pretty psyched everything turned out pretty much the way i want um the mounts for the pistons are gonna be right there right on top on the corners because the pistons will travel right there um yeah hopefully uh hopefully it all works the way i want it to i'm gonna put a grease zerk i was gonna gun drill the the bore of that pin so i could have greased one grease arc in top but i think it's safer to put it down in there i'll drill through and tap it and have a grease zerk in the middle there and it'll just fill the cavity with grease there's really not much room in there anyways that each bushing was two and a half uh by two with a two inch bore two and two and a half inch od two inch height two inch bore so that is a seven and a half inch piece so i mean you know there's only a couple a couple three inches in between them um of bore that is two and a quarter instead of two so i mean it's you know eighth inch on each side there's really not that much room to put grease in there so it should be you know easy enough to deal with but yeah getting there now that i know what i'm going to need for throw i can figure out if i'm going to have to flip these or not on the six-way blade dozers they come factory with those triangles the opposite way around so that that corner is just about touching down there um which gives you enough room to put the pistons in there but with my setup i'm not sure if i'm going to need to i might be able to get enough throw out of them without doing that you know just just in this amount of room right here that'd be great but we'll see bring you back oh there's that started overheating the torch on my tig so i uh gotta let it cool off i got a big 18 size wp18 torch that i'm gonna put on it because i mean that's a 300 amp machine that thing will put out some serious serious heat uh ac and dc and i got it because i will aluminum with it a lot and it's freaking awesome the only thing i don't like is it does a little it's a little jumpy on the start sometimes like it it goes instead of just a nice even arc right off the light but it doesn't always do it so i might need the contacts to be cleaned and adjusted inside or i don't know maybe it's just the way it is but um anyways i used the tig because it's cold out and i haven't finished building my suction rig yet and arc welding and mig just makes some more smoke that it it'll smoke me out so i uh i decided to do the root pass with tig just so like you can probably hear the wood splitter running i'm going to use the wood splinter to tr splitter to try to straighten out that one a little bit it's only out by like 3 16 of an inch so it's not too bad i should be able to fold it in but i wanted to get this at least tacked together right here before i went pushing on it because i this one is perfect this side is really really straight and true and the other side is really close so i think that um it'll be easy enough to straighten out and then the pin will slide all the way through and i can see what i need to clearance on that where i had to see if you can see that where i had to toe that up a little bit right here um i'm gonna grind some of it down you can probably just see that mark i'm gonna take some of it off so that it doesn't interfere take a little bit off of the uh frame too um but yeah i'll bring you back in a bit just got done oh welding the end fitting on it's just a uh i had a just by chance stainless uh 3 8 what do they call them it's a split coupling i think is what they call them no it's what puts two pieces of pipe together so you can break it down if you need to but anyways um i had one of those that was 3 8 so i machined the threads off of it and it's gonna be the new new um hose inlet on the end i had to cut like these are 16 inch i had to cut like 11 inches off of them they uh these are the original pistons from uh the parts dozer and for the left for the blade lift and now they're gonna be for the rotation this way on the six-way blade conversion we're doing so yeah three-eighths end cap um three-eighths thick did a root pass with the tig and then i usually would just do the root pass and then do the stick on top or mig um so that you don't get crap down in the piston when you're welding the end cap on i always do the root pass with tig but it was welding so nice that i just went right back around it again with a cat pass and i think it looks great so um and then these yeah that that's how much i had to cut off or maybe it was nine inches i can't remember anyways i needed nine inches of travel so uh that's the other one i still gonna do but and then i made these um this morning we just bored out two inch and a quarter quarter wall three and a half inches long the reason why i'm using these instead of the factory ones is well a the factory ones were a little on the wobbed outside i mean they could have been bushed or whatever but these um they how do i put this uh they get it as close as possible to the end of the piston so that you have the most amount of room while you're like you get the least amount of barrel possible um because i'm kind of limited on space with the the triangles that come up off of that frame for the up and down pistons which i'm probably gonna have to flip around uh the factory six-way blade um uses the same frame basically but the triangles on each side the triangles on each side that uh that hold it in place you know like that the pistons attach to are flipped around the other way so that the angular part of it goes back and it's straight up and down on the front right now it's the other way around i'm not sure why they did it like that on the on the straight blade version but anyways i'm gonna turn it around and weld them back on and it'll give me all the room i need for the pistons um and i got to cut some slots in it for the hoses to run through just that's the way they do it on the six-way blades from the factory so i figure screw it i'll do the same thing um but yeah anyways this is wrapping up and it sounds like somebody just pulled up so i'll end this right now well there's that one all done i think that'll be fine this kind most of the hard pressure on this is pushing back that way anyways but that will give me enough room for a half inch right here um of a plate you know maybe a half inch thick i'll be three inches wide or so but from the loop from the edge of the hole to here is like 5 8 or something so i should be able to put a piece of this should the end of the eyelet should be a half inch thick which is more than strong enough um yeah do up the other one and then i'm gonna cut on the u-frame it's no big deal uh oh let's see i sliced them off with the evolution um skill saw and cleaned them up i cut them a little high because i wanted to get it nice and straight and then i plasma gouged the weld what was left on the on the arms themselves it's not perfectly beautiful but it doesn't really matter cleaned it up with the grinder got it nice and square trued up the um uprights i or before i even did all this i took a bunch of measurements and made a bunch of marks on it so i knew what was plum and square and true because even the front this this edge right here on both of them isn't plum it's angled a little bit so um i did a plumb line and basically just flipped them put the one from one side on the other side backwards um the guides are still on there i'm just gonna have to add a little bit there's about well there they are on the floor that's how much i might even just put those back on um i think i'm gonna have to put a little bit wider guides on it just because the pistons are a little wider than the actual width of this and obviously i don't want them to chafe i was looking at a 450c today actually it's the guys that gave me the parts dozer uh hopkins boatyard and i was looking at their 450c and same thing their pistons are a little bit wider than it and the tracks have eaten right into the sides of the pistons so i'm gonna put a little bit wider guides on probably both sides i would rather have it rub a little bit on the on the tracks uh and wear the tracks a little bit then chew into the pistons and just have replaceable wear plates on the sides so that's probably what i'm going to do inside and out there won't be much of it anyways if any that can hit the tracks i guess it depends on where the tracks are tensioned let me grab one of these put this here i'm gonna be able to see what i'm talking about oh that is centered and that is pretty well right where it's going to be so yeah i don't even think it's gonna come in contact with it they're probably gonna be about an inch farther back than where i just set it and the closest the track ever came to it was there and that was with worn out track guides and shoes and stuff so now that that's all replaced um you know and i've got good new sprockets on it that should pull it back a little bit at least for a while but i'm still gonna put some guides on it and i'll probably incorporate in the mount for the uh piston for that back you know right right there for that back mount i'll probably incorporate some slides on that to make the mount just a little wider than because i'm going to box it in and but make it a little bit wider than what the piston is just a little bit like i mean even an eighth of an inch will do it sixteenth or a quarter i mean so if it ever does come close to it it'll hit that before it hits the piston you know maybe just like a piece that runs from you know here back here forward on the side right there instead of up and down um there i mean originally there was no outside guides and and it chews into the side rails so i'll do something about that i was thinking just you know some whatever i can fit i got to get the frame back on there and measure take some measurements i mean i have the measurements but it's always good to have it fit and on it in case something's tweaked one way or the other so that i know you know if something's tweaked a little bit i can kind of wiggle some stuff around to get it right um can also i was thinking those back bushings aren't too bad of shape but if i ever needed to you could do eccentric bushings and put like a way to to key them so that you can spin them um to get it lined up and then you could like set screw them in place so that they won't move and that would you know it would give you some alignment on the frame but should be able to get it really close with just the way it is i rebored the arms that hold the back of that and everything so but anyways um i think what i'm gonna do is a thick spacer under it that gets welded to the top of that um that's drilled for the inch and a quarter pin and i'm i don't know i was kind of hoping to avoid drilling into this so actually that's a little thicker it's probably going to be a three-quarter inch thick by inch and a quarter by you know maybe like three inch whatever the width of that is spacer i'll weld that in that'll be the bottom pin mount and then the top i'm probably going to box it in right from here back to that just to beef it up a little bit um because i do realize that flipping these puts more stress on this up front but dude that's all half inch uh it's half inch angle that's been welded in the box so it's super super strong stuff um you know and torsionally it's really strong too because it's had so much added to it it's had those corner gussets it's had bottom corner gussets uh there is two inches of solid steel if you add up all the plates along the bottom and an inch and a half along the top right here tying this all together so it's this thing i gotta weigh it when it's done it's crazy crazy crazy heavy but you know it'll be good for back dragon you'll be able to really bury the blade which is good but and i think i figured out how i'm gonna do the rotation for the the circle and the banana shape thing for the blade to do this movement i think i'm going to go from the top of this side um up with the arm and it's going to go across to the blade which should it it should work good i you know i was originally i was just going to go straight up and down basically where that board is right there with a piston but it you don't get enough room and there's clearance issues and so i think i'm going to go the other way sideways and then we're going to build up the top of the blade with a triangle a square and a triangle like the newer ones are which gives you more capacity and protects everything in the back but yeah that's where i'm at get some stuff welded up tonight and they're just getting ready to mount the cylinders to it that's pretty much where they're gonna sit gotta do a couple cuts on the end of the rod eyes but just to kind of clean them up round them over that's how much the cylinder is going to move in when it turns and then when it turns all the way the other way uh they don't go any farther than just inside the outside edge so they're basically flush with that but in just a tiny tiny bit and then i'm gonna put a chaff and plate on the side of that because obviously it's less wabbed out than it is than it uh than it used to be because i've done a bunch of pin stuff with it cleaned a bunch of stuff up but you can kind of see it there it's been chaffing into the side right there so i'm going to put a chafing plate on it and then i'm going to put a bigger plate there's little ones in there but i'm gonna put a thicker one in just to try to keep it as centered as i possibly can but that's how much throw that way it's gonna have same the other way um there's gonna be a piece of flat bar three inch that goes up over and down on each one that the pin goes through and then under it there'll be a piece of one inch inch and a quarter inside diameter one inch tall to space that up where it needs to be and also that'll be the bottom pin boss and then on the top there'll be another piece of that tubing uh that tubing right there that the ends are made out of ends up being quarter wall um sticking off the top of the mount and off the top of the back mount um and that's what the pins will go through just like that those are not that's not how that's going to be that was i was just checking spacing so that is the bottom side to this one so that's the bottom pin boss that gets welded on and then there's a piece of half inch flat bar that goes from here out and that is the top pin boss and then it gets plated with quarter inch on each side it should be more than strong enough um box it in and i'll probably cut the corners out of it so that it can drain and then the four hoses come through this i'm gonna cut those out um and then those i started i haven't even come close to finish and i got interrupted and had to do something else but there'll be another those are just some pieces of head kicking around there'll be another inch and a quarter hole down a little ways on each one and then i'll chop them off and then it'll get cut out in between them so that it's it's a reinforcing ring basically to go around that where the hoses go out to get the strength back into it probably doesn't need it but i might as well um but yeah the four hoses come through that two of them go to this cylinder and there'll be a t and a t and then they go over around the front to the other cylinder and then the other two hoses that come out will come over and up to the cylinder that's going to be right here for the the rotation that way but getting there a little bit at a time a lot of machined parts because i'm trying to get all the pin bosses back to really good conditions so that it's tight figure if i'm going to do it i might as well do it right i'm going to put some adjustable stops on it so that right now end of travel both directions is maxed out on the pistons both directions which is perfect but i also don't want to put all that stress on the pistons if you're jacked all the way over and say you run into something so i'm gonna get some one-inch threaded rod and put a piece of threaded rod and a metal stop for it to go against that you can adjust so that it might just be a bolt but um so you'll be able to adjust it in right when it gets to the end of the travel on the piston will be right when it touches the stops on each side and that way it's not just putting all the stress on the pistons and the mounts and stuff it's putting it transferring it into the frame too but anyways it is all um attack welded together just gotta like burn it all in with the the uh arc welder yeah got the outsides and the tops of the front pivots done and it's all all the root passes and like heavy tacks are done with the tig so it's a 300 amp tig it heats up that half inch like nothing oh maybe three quarter pinned on the pedal so i did do final passes on that in there because i can't get to it once that's all on very easily i mean i guess i can but it's not it was easier just to weld it there so those are both kind of a crappy lighting but those are both you know root pass and then a big fat pass on top so this is all ready to go at it with the arc welder so yeah i might fill in that little hole right there too this was a used piece of c channel right next to a bolt hole imagine that but i can clean that up with the die grinder and back fill it with the tig and you'll never even know so anyways it works the way i want it to i'm pretty psyched just gotta do a bunch of arc welding i think i'm gonna lay another bead wire wheel that and lay another maybe two beads in um i was trying not to distort it i mean that's a pretty fat weld anyways it's ugly but it's a i was um jittery that day i guess for some reason couldn't lay a decent weld i mean it's not like i can't lay a good weld i um you know showing off my welds worst thing you can do on youtube but that's not bad a couple of dents from the hammer but you know it's not like i can't play a good weld pass let's take focus anyways a bunch of arc welding tonight all ground up i um probably gonna fill that spot just a little more with the tig just to clean it up i was trying to be careful to not totally collapse that hole so i'll do it with the tig but um pretty much cleaned up i gotta get in there with the die grinder just because it's bugs the out of me that there's all those bbs in there they're not really hurting anything but i think they'll make it rust you know paint doesn't like getting in around them so clean them up that one and that one and then one of the last things i forgot to do is i want to do the same thing i did here um this whole piece kind of had to be this way a little bit to catch the whole patterns that it needed to it's pretty much as short as it can be but it needed to be this way a little bit so the center line is this way if you measure it so i had enough room on this side to triangulate it and you know whatever probably didn't need it but i'd rather over build it than under build it and then this side it had to be flush originally i was going to have a piston right here for the rotation but um decided against that and now i think i'm going to have one across the top like the 450c's um so i mean i could have gone farther out with it and done the same thing but now i'm just i'm going to put a piece in right here to triangulate that one a little bit um i might just take that in 300 amp tags should do it fine i could have done the whole thing with tig but it was used metal so i'd rather arc weld it and i'm more than proficient at arc welding um i wasn't worried about the beanies i could have left this all just the way it was and you know they were actually really pretty welds but anyways um yeah it's pretty much all finished ground a little bit of cleaning to do but not much i got it cleaned up pretty good i am gonna since i had to chop this out on this you know on that side for the piston to clear um i'm going to come in here and probably put a piece of 3 8 or you know probably 3 8 or maybe half inch i think i have some uh inch and a half left over from doing the track adjuster slides on the front of it so probably take a piece and bend it it's gonna i know it looks funny right now because that's just the shape that's how it was but i'm gonna come up and then do a nice radius bend and i'll fill that in with weld right there a little bit so that it's a nice smooth arc the whole way um you know i can't go in any closer than that anyways because uh the uh end of the piston is big enough so i'm gonna put the end of the piston in there with a couple of shims and then i'll probably you know weld the bottom of it on and get it nice and red and bend it around the piston with some shims in there and then weld it in place take the piston back out finish weld it but that's like the last of the welding on this oh well no i i don't think these uh uh guides are gonna be in the right spot they used to be here um but i left them so if they need to be i don't know the thing that they slide on is like 10 inches long so if they still catch where they're supposed to you know slide where they're supposed to awesome if not i'll add another strip in or something but um i think they're gonna make it i think they'll be all right but anyways it's uh coming along nicely that's all welded in um i did weld in there you just can't see it it's you know close clearance the the pin there's nothing there just the pin stops i think i'm actually gonna drill and tap and put a little tie bar across it so that if the top pin that goes through here ever fails that it can't just drop out but i do want to be able to drive the pin out either way whatever's easiest probably driving it in from that end and then if it ever needs to be changed your new bushings put in being able to drop it right down through by taking that plate out so but anyways it's um it's looking good i think it's uh pretty close to being able to go on the machine and um you know paint and blah blah blah i still have to chop out that uh and then the same thing on the front and then reinforce it for where the hoses go so that's the other welding thing that i got to do on it still but yeah a lot of welding this weekend nights and yada yada but i'm gonna go home and get some dinner overnight everything finished welded yesterday i got ahead and do the tops of these those are done those are done that's been done that's all done added that last little bit right there that little gusset just because probably didn't need either of those gussets but you know what it over build it don't break it so anyways that's all done i had had some thoughts of possibly chucking it up in the mill and taking a thin cut off of each face just to make sure that they're still on the same plane because it definitely got a little banana shape to it it's not bad but a little bit um i don't know i'm gonna put it on the machine and see how everything fits make sure that that stuff still lines up where it's supposed to you know if it's gonna come back off and go in the middle and so be it not a big deal right now however i am drilling i guess it could be considered gun drilling but usually gun drilling means you're drilling down the middle so i am drilling the top down through past so that it's off to the side of the um roll pin that goes through there to hold it in place that is going to be for a grease zerk goes down three and a half inches then it'll be drilled in from the side put it in the lathe i'll cut one little groove around it and i might use the grinder to cut like a couple of just barely spirals off of it not even 90 degrees around just a little bit to get it to come out but honestly just the groove around it should be more than enough to spread the grease out and you know this is what it is but i gotta do that one and then that one and then i'm gonna pull those two pins no big deal they're just sitting in there but uh and do the same thing those ones obviously only have to get drilled in a couple inches so that's not a big deal but this is a little nerve wracking because that is a very tiny bit um i want to say it was a hundred thousand i can't remember it's right around that 100 thou i don't know where my calipers are on the lathe whatever um so yeah anyways i got it drilled all the way in so far it's all the way down i don't want to push it in there because it's probably a chicken wall but anyways that's three and a half inches down then it gets drilled that's i see i start with a short bit just to save wear on my long bits but yeah start with a short bit go all the way in finish it up with that this is actually oversized from this bit just a little bit a couple i think it was like ten thou bigger this this bits tenth out bigger than that bit so you know that way a little bit of clearance just for chips and oil and but um plenty of oil doing this kind of stuff man you gotta lots of oil and clear it every just drill tiny bit pull it out clear the chips put a drop of oil on it same thing over and over and over again that way you you don't get a chip behind and break a freaking bit off and ruin the pins even though those pins are pretty much ruined anyways they're cut offs from the cylinders and no that was the part of the cylinder that was sticking out so it's got some rust pitting on it but it's really not that bad and honestly i don't care um it is what it is i thought i had some more of that which is quarter inch monel you know marine shafting but or an inch and a quarter but i don't so i'm using this and those um and you know got to do the same thing so where was i oh yeah so drilling with that all the way three and a half inches in then it gets drilled in about oh i'll probably have to go in well let's see it needs to be threaded in a quarter inch for the grease zerk so i'll probably drill in three quarters of an inch just to make sure that i've got enough clearance and you know whatever for the end of the tap but yeah then it gets tapped and tiny little grease zerks um yeah i might end up putting a shield over it i haven't decided yet to try to keep the grease zerks from getting smashed off we'll see how it goes if they get smashed then i'll figure something out like maybe a piece of pipe or something but um yeah also you know it's only quarter what is it quarter 28 threads it's fine thread for grease zerks but um you know having that drilled and tapped lets you if you need to pull the grease arc out put a quarter inch bolt in it and use it to pull the pin out too if you need to but these pins are pretty short they should come out pretty easy when needed but anyways that's where i'm at do some more drilling started pre-assembly on it got all the pins made started messing with hydraulic hoses gonna figure out how i'm gonna split the lines let go of these two pistons um what i should do really is take the pistons apart so the seals are away from it and i should cut these off and put the same thing on that i did here uh but i don't know if i want to do that it's a pain in the ass uh so i mean in all reality this one ought to be sticking straight up and down and that one should be facing this way but um i don't know we'll see i might make up some hard lines for it to bring it back to like here because the whole for the hoses to come through is right there i already drilled the back one i gotta cut it out i was gonna drill it up but i want it back down here by the pivot point put some nice chafing gear on it and that way it's not stretching the hoses it's just bending them but yeah let's get in there but the um front i guess i'll call them shoes and the uh i don't know rotation plate anyways it's just the stepped plate that the blade attaches to and then there'll be a mount right here and then a piston will come off of that mount up and there'll be a mount right here sticking off of the blade with bracing and that'll give you the rotation side to side anyways quick update got the tops done started doing the hoses today surplus center man you gotta love it i was super surprised too to see that right there from surplus center for the price i mean it's ridiculous you can get you can get like a 20 foot hose from them for like nothing it's like 15 bucks or something like that with fittings crimped on it i'm just you know it amazes me i've paid out the ass for hydraulic hoses before especially where i live on an island and i'm not dogging them because that's the way it is but you know the place i get hoses from is the marine one of the marine shops out here it's uh hopkins really nice guys i love the place but you know just it gets really pricey after a while buying hoses and fittings and stuff because they have their mark up and plus you know it's just that's just the way it is and it gets really pricey um but i did change the design a little bit on this so originally i was gonna have the splitters those two splitters right up here hard to the to this piston and then split off to the other one but it just to me it looked like it was just gonna get smashed so uh i ended up changing it so that meant that i had to take the hoses that i had made up already um down to those guys and i had them crimp on their great gates fittings on the ends um to shorten them these are the original ones different you can see those are the two different kinds that's what hopkins has and this is from surplus center these are really good fittings i haven't seen anything wrong with their fittings the all the chamfers are beautiful and the machining is great on them and the threads aren't all rippy and stuff like they're you know those are and they're from china no doubt but like that's they're that's really good quality you know like the fittings um fittings it's funny because the fittings are from china but the hose is from the us but they're from the same company it's um what is it hydrolyte i think yeah those guys hydrolyte ii um and this is their anti-wear uh flame retardant type hose so we'll see how it wears um this is probably gonna get covers i'm thinking like exhaust tubing basically with long sides on it that go over and kind of downhill uh to cover them up and then i'll probably have something over it and probably the same type of cover on the other side just to you know you get a rock that tumbles over the top of the blade or a stick gets jammed in the track and gets brought up through and it's really easy to rip a hydraulic hose off and cause yourself a whole shitload of hassle so i figure i'll i'll put some covers on it here at some point but yeah you like my little drawing when i put the hoses through after i put this piece of half inch round bar on here kind of just to spread the you know the amount where it can chafe on it to spread it out a little bit and give it a nice radiused edge and it also brought a bunch of strength back uh because i welded it inside and out but when i did that and i ran the hoses through it that was all i saw it was really funny was i was it just looked like it was puking hydraulic hoses outside chew that on there and had a good laugh anyways yeah getting there and then these two go to the to the piston that'll be right here for the the rotation so i had to do a little funkiness but it's a piece of stainless tube i welded up bent to bring the fitting back around i like i said i think i said this in a previous video but um eventually this is gonna come back off uh when i need to rebuild these which who knows when it'll be because they do have some pitting on them but when i rebuild them i'll get all new seals for him they should be just john deere seals um i'm gonna make new rods probably out of polished stainless we'll see just so i don't have to worry about that over again because these do get hit with rocks and stuff so you know if it's stainless you just take a file to it and at least it won't rust um but yeah when i do that i'm gonna cut these off both of them and get rid of the big gummy ones and do basically the same thing i did on those so that i can just put a 90 in it and put it on because the way they have them now you have to do a straight fitting a straight swivel to be able to put a fitting or hose on it it's kind of stupid so um yeah let's i'll end up taking that off eventually i did leave enough slack in that bottom hose so that if i when i'm ready i can pull it up a little bit but she's getting there i think it looks great look even better when it's all painted and back on the machine and working oh let's see next up i got the hoses done well they're pre-fit they're nothing's tight nothing's got thread dope on it or anything but um next up is to take it off of those saw horses put it on some like 12 by 12 blocks so it's just a little ways off the ground yank the blade in here which is just outside the door and put the blade on it to start building the mounts for that piston that's missing onto the blade and onto that frame right there so there's it's going to be like right about here kind of at an angle um you know that'll give you your rotation but i still think i'm going to have to take that apart and machine that you can see it right now that it got a little whoop in it from putting those middle plates on so i'm thinking it's probably gonna have to go up on the mill and and just get milled i probably won't mill the whole thing just because it doesn't need it i'll just mill here and here on the same plane so that it's square but there's no point in taking all that time to make that a machine surface it just doesn't need it out of sight out of mind anyways but yeah it's um once i get that mount done it's pretty much ready for paint i could i could paint this right now because this is all done uh besides some chafing gear but i think i'm gonna make that chafing gear bolt on i'm thinking some half inch stainless strips right here so that the when the track hits it it's hitting stainless so anytime it scratches the paint off which it is going to scratch the paint off it won't rust it'll just be a shiny spot so i'll put some half inch stainless in there most likely but like i said i think i'm gonna make it bolt on with like some countersunk bolts so that when it's chaffed through you just peel it off and put a new one on um but yeah i can't paint the front piece until i get that mount built on it for that and once that's on i will put it outside for probably a week in the water and the rain and let it get some surface rust on it and clean it up and then not clean it up but you know just kind of lightly clean it up with a wire brush and then i'll hit it with the rust converter because that stuff works really good but anyways good enough just finishing up the shortening of the cylinder this is one that i had from an old project it's i mean it's basically a brand new cylinder it's got zero time on it just got mounted and cycled a couple a couple times um so i shortened it up basically cut it right in half it was a 12 inch throw um now it's going to be a five inch throw so just a little more than cutting it in half but cut it off in the bandsaw yeah there's the piece and then just you know chucked it up in the lathe and chamfered it cleaned it up smoothed it out with some sandpaper i don't want any any rough edges at all to cut the seals then i had to take this apart and i recut new threads after i cut it off um which are nice and smooth and very tight um but yeah gives me i cut this a little longer originally it was only an inch and a quarter of threads i cut it to two inches because there's about oh three quarters to an inch of space in here before you get to the edge of the mount um and that gives me a lot more adjustment so i can get the amount that it rotates centered like perfectly um but yeah i'm gonna slam it on there and uh that lets me weld the mount on for the second part of the mount i welded the first part you can just see it welded the first part of the mount on right there just tacked it a couple of you know good healthy tacks and then uh i'll put this cylinder in place and that will let me mount the second half of it that goes on this end um and usually the way i do that is i go this has a hard stop on one side um it would be putting the side that's closest to us down has a hard stop on the banana shaped piece so i'll put it right against that hard stop and then i will collapse this cylinder up completely so that it's bottomed out um and then i'll weld that mount on and that makes sits so that as it cycles it hits the stop the it hits the stop and the puck hits the back of the cylinder all at the same time and then on the other side there is no hard stop i mean i could put one in it but it needs to be able to be removable so that you can you know spin the blade to take it off of the mounts um so you know having a hard stop on both sides doesn't really make sense but yeah five inches of travel gives me as much as i need for rotation so i'll bring you back once i get some mounts so i got the mounts all tacked in well a little more than tacked but not burned in yet got the piston cut new tie rods made for the piston i actually upgraded it i guess you could say because it was metric rod in there and it was small for the hole and the a half inch rod fit perfect like tight so i got a half inch rod and threaded the ends and put some nice lock nuts on it should be good to go um yeah the mounts are nice and tight and everything seems to work yeah that's max travel on the piston and on the frame piece um the slide and then so that's max travel that way that's max travel the other way um yeah i'm very happy with that that's more than whatever i would need you know i'll mainly be using this thing for driveways and stuff so it plenty of plenty of angle i'm really interested to see how this is all going to work it's vaguely built off of a regular john deere you know like a 450 type but the mechanism is different for the rotation the piston placement's a little different but you know i took some pointers from it here and there turned out real good though super happy with how smooth it is and how tight everything came out um you know there's not like no slop in this um just a little bit in the pistons but not i got to put spacers inside that way it's supposed to be shimmed but it's barely any and it's my fault i just didn't i overboard them more than i should have because i was anticipating them shrinking from welding and that type of metal i guess i don't know what it was but this piece i had in scrap pile and it just didn't shrink like normal mild steel does so i'm thinking it might have been a little bit of a harder material like a 4140 or something but anyways so they're about two or three thou over on the bore so it makes them clacky but greece should take care of that you know it's gonna get wore out anyways but come back down here in a little while after i have dinner kids to bed and uh do a bunch of burning so open the door and run a bunch of rods but i'm very happy with how this all turned out you know it needs to be blown back apart and painted and it can go on the machine yeah pretty freaking cool but i guess that's it on this video this is an extremely long video uh i don't know i might break this up into two segments we'll see anyways it's been real

Channel: Mad Man Marine

Views: 165

Rating: 5 out of 5

Keywords:

Id: 9RyUHj3EsR4

Length: 109min 49sec (6589 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 27 2020