Building a convertible Waste-oil Aluminum Foundry/Forge Out of Scrap Metal | Free Aluminum Scrapping

[Music] ladies and gentlemen today is an exciting day I finally added something to my arsenal of tools that I've wanted for quite a long time in fact two but I'll be getting to that in a second this is my new aluminum foundry I say new but of course it's made of recycled materials and I'll be going over it in just a little bit to explain exactly how it works because I know that's why you're here but gonna give you a little bit of a demonstration just on the overall function so this is actually a waste oil powered aluminum foundry waste oil burning does get more than hot enough to melt down aluminum which has a melting point of about twelve hundred and twenty-one degrees Fahrenheit which is about six hundred and sixty degrees Celsius or about nine hundred and thirty-three degrees Kelvin so anyway not terribly hot and well within the range of our waste oil burning but as I mentioned before it is a foundry and if you're not familiar with what a founder is basically it's just some sort of vessel or something they can be run off of electricity wood charcoal propane a number of other gases and they just burn that material in order to get a high enough temperature to melt down metal in this case aluminum which has a relatively low melting temperature so this is really the body of the foundry and then here's the cool part if we pull this lever put it down here it's nicely on the stand and then suddenly we have a forge and that's all thanks to this little slip coupler I made here very very simple I'll explain that in just a little bit but from here we can take our bar material or whatever else we're trying to forge put it in here let it get red-hot take it out where it's nice and malleable put it on our anvil and Hammer it into whatever we're trying to create so it's multi-purpose I've been able to achieve two things that I've really wanted in one package so it'll take up less space and most importantly like I said it is powered off of waste oil which burns in that vessel there we have our air intake there and we have our oil line in there now if you're not familiar with our oil burners work we'll be going over that but not right at this second I know I'm leaving you guys on a lot of cliff hangers but hold on we'll get there so here's the reason why I want this waste oil for a fuel instead of a traditional propane or even just a charcoal burning system just so you have an idea of my logic and reasoning before you decide to try to build one of these for yourself now I have an abundance of waste oil because I do all of my own oil changes on my vehicles and even if that weren't the case if you go to most shops or garages waste oil is abundantly available and most the time it's in fact free this is just a great way for me to use that up and also use it in a very practical way I don't have to go through the burden of taking it to a recycling place which is definitely what you should do if you don't have a way to dispose of it properly but in this case I'm able to get a practical and functional application from it so anyway it's a good way to get rid of it it works very well for a system like this and that's just my logic okay so now we're going to get on to the actual build which I'm sure you're waiting for but if you're not interested in seeing how I built it there will be a final explanation at the very end of that and so skip to this timestamp if you just want to see the final results this year functioning as well as a total explanation of the whole process from beginning to end so anyway see you on the other side so right over here on the floor by my fiberglass leaf spring content I've got this old air compressor tank now the top is off but I can weld it back on and I think this is going to be my burn vessel doesn't need to be all that big and in fact I think it's better to have it undersized than it is oversized otherwise you might be burning all of our fuel before it actually gets into the foundry itself and I don't really want that so I think this is a good size this is about six inches in diameter and I want to say it's probably about eighteen inches tall so I'm gonna set that aside and then for the foundry part I'm gonna use a propane tank I want it to be tall enough that I'll be able to put it on its side and have a relatively long item all heating at once for forging purposes and also if I can put a pretty decent sized crucible in there so I can melt down a lot of aluminum once for a large four that would be fantastic too but yeah I've done a lot of talking and I think that's gonna end soon because this project is so simple I'm just gonna work my way through it kind of guide you along the way so stay tuned and I hope you enjoy [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] for those of you that don't know what I'm about to do prepare for some serious cringe [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so I'll be doing a verbal walk-around of this entire project once this all put together just so you can better see and understand it so if there's something that you didn't quite get or didn't quite understand in this build process then don't worry I'll cover it in a bit but at this point I think our functional parts are done and so we can actually go and do a test burn in this just to make sure that this is hopefully going to work for putting all the effort into the next step this will be cut down to size later but for now I'm gonna leave that as long as it is just because I don't want to be left with less material than I need later on okay so I've got everything in a test setup right now I've got my oil there that I borrowed from a waste oil furnace so first thing you're going to do is turn on your oil supply I'm using a gate valve now it's not terribly warm so it'll take a minute to flow all the way down there alright I'm gonna let that burn for a minute and get well established and then I'll turn my fan on you can see we've got a good cyclone going and I'm not sure if you can tell there is oil dripping in through that feed line so I guess now we just wait so what I actually ended up doing this is an interesting sort of counterintuitive thing that I really wouldn't have guessed but if there's too much airflow what you end up with is just a cyclone running around also ignore those leaks the cyclone running around but it just stays circular because it's moving so fast the he doesn't have time to lift the flame up and out that outlet and so what happens is you burn all the fuel before it reaches the exit that'll do that was certainly a success so I shut the blower down now and we can do a quick overview I felt the oil in tube and it's called cool so no issues with hopefully no issues with oil burning inside of the feed tube and all the solder over here and this metal is cold so I don't worry about any of this melting so if it can withstand it I think we're golden also I just posted this on my Instagram so if you're interested in seeing more of these projects and more in depth details and fun updates then follow me at Rando underscore ammonium if you're interested in getting some extra content right so I've taken it inside and I used a wire brush to clean up all that old burnt off paint and now we're down to bare metal and we're ready to go for the frame now the frames is going to be relatively simple in fact I do most of it off camera because you'll get a very good idea of how its constructed just in the final imagery [Music] also on a totally different note I finally upgraded my welding hood to my very first autotargeting hood so it's pretty sweet we're actually gonna start on the main foundry body basically the thing that you would put your crucible in to actually receive heat from the burned vessel and melt so this is what I'm going to use it's an old propane tank I've had laying around for a while used to be an air tank but now it's getting a new life so this will need to be somewhere up about there what's going to happen is this will act as a pivot point it will be going in at an angle to hopefully generate somewhat of a cyclone inside of this it will be cutting the top off of course but basically we're gonna have another piece of this old axle weld into the side and then it'll have a collar that it slips over this here so will happen is hopefully I'll receive all the heat from the burned vessel but it'll still be able to turn and I'll just sort of eyeball a corresponding pivot point on the opposite side weld on a pin and then I'll make a map for that right so that's first order of business we're also going to need to make a way to latch it in both the foundry position and the Forge position which will be down in a cradle that'll be mounted somewhere right about there [Music] [Music] all right so now that the body of our foundry the main component is essentially done with that lid cut off next we're going to need to put a lining on the inside probably about two and a quarter inches thick in my case and that will act as an insulator now this is usually some sort of refractory cement or cable or fire brick or some other something that's fireproof that can withstand high temperatures and is also a good insulator so in my case I'm going to be going with a mix that you've probably heard of before on grant Thompson king of random Channel he made a metal foundry a while back and he used a 50-50 mix of plaster of Paris and sand it seemed to work well enough so I think that's what I'm going to go with because it's also very cost effective refractory cement the actual refractory cement that you would go to the store and purchase is very very expensive and filling a void of this size would be a little out of my price range so because we'll be dealing with dusty conditions let's take this outside alright so I got everything laid out and I'm gonna go over what we have we have our plaster of Paris there we have our just Home Depot place and over here and those two items both combined we run you about twenty-five dollars at the hardware store so it's a fairly cheap alternative to actual refractory cement as I mentioned we're gonna need a mixing container we're gonna need plastic wrap we're gonna need a measuring container slash scoop a pencil tape measure of course our foundry body over here and we're gonna need something cylindrical that we can put in the middle of our cement mixture to make sure that we have an open cavity in the center what the fire will actually exist and where we can put our crucible in to receive heating oh yeah before we go any further please mask and eye protection is very important especially the masks when dealing with any sort of powdered substances and you really don't want to get it in your eyes either because obvious reasons right the first we're going to do is get an idea of how deep this is this measurement is fairly important just to make sure that we're getting a reasonable cover of our cement down on the inside so it looks like we're just about a 16 inches perfect so I went about three inches of cover on the bottom of this so it'll be doing in this case it's 16 inches I'll be taking three off of that and so I'll put a mark 30 inches up on this item that we'll be using to create our cavity so this is seven and a half inches in diameter this is about 12 inches in diameter so we'll end up with a two and a quarter inch ring of material all the way around so that should just about do it although if you can get away with more I'd recommend it probably should use their sharpie alright just something that we can be sure to see now of course we don't want to crack or plaster Paris and pulling our form out so what I'm going to be doing is actually putting a layer between it and the actual plaster or refractory cement by use of this plastic wrap if any luck this should make removal much easier later on down the road the sport really lend itself to having a very clean appearance on the inside but quite frankly I don't care alright so next we're going to have to sort of approximate the volume to know how much we're going to mix all right so for my measuring I'm going to be using this coffee cam you can hold a weight of coffee equal to thirty point five ounces and we need to make sure we have a clean mixing container as well I haven't exactly determined how I'm going to figure out the volume yet considering I'll probably be better off over mixing than under mixing I'm gonna aim high alright you know things are about to get serious when the sleeves get rolled up right and the clock is ticking right now I want to push this down and try to keep it centered up to that mark that we made earlier which we should be able to see right there with any luck it'll be close it's just about perfect okay so now got to hold this until it's dry yay all right so I ended up removing some of the material inside of it just pouring some out into the bucket and I added some more plaster of Paris because like I stated it looked a little bit running out it turns out it was I had too much water and it wasn't setting up so what I decided to do was add the rest of my plaster of Paris so he's the full 25 pounds in this and along with a little less than equal amount of sand I was trying to sort of increase the plaster of Paris content just because I wanted to make sure that it did in fact set up nicely all right it's been about 21 hours now with any luck this is set up completely I don't know if it's cured all the way through probably not because there's so much mass here and it is not very warm outside but regardless I think we're gonna try to pull out that tank today and we're gonna find out if the saran wrap idea did anything at all or whether this is going to be a nightmare wish me luck I have no idea why I thought that would be easier than it was I literally literally spent all day trying to get this stupid thing out I have no idea why it was so difficult but I literally broke a come-along trying to pull this out I had to resort to using my pickup truck to pull this out in for lo some of you it's so bad some of you don't even know what that means little embarrassed not gonna lie but it's out now results are definitely not pretty it got pretty bad but we're just gonna go with it because this is only cosmetic but anyway on a more positive note this is what the inside of our furnace looks like it turned out to be pretty well centered and it turned out to be pretty well aligned as far as the edges go straight down so I can't I can't really complain too much but the next step is to actually create the hole into the side that will be the outlet of our burn vessel here and that'll be the same three-inch axle material so I've got a three inch hole saw which will be just about perfect for this material here so I'm gonna go ahead and draw that out well it's still soft so that three inch hole saw that I just showed you yeah my mandrel is too small you know it's been one of those days really has as far as placement goes that's important because we don't want to have it all the way at the bottom of our foundry because if there's any sort of failure of the crucible then the aluminum will is out and will possibly go down not that it's a big deal in this case but it could run down and back into a burn vessel and we just don't want to have to clean up that mess even if there is a way to clean it up which there's really not so to avoid that issue what we're going to do is we're going to come out probably I don't know 2 inches 2 inches sounds good improvise adapt overcome so this point it's just a matter of eyeballing usually get that angle right because you want this side of this hole to go with this side of the foundry cavity if you will so we're gonna try to keep this as level as we can and shoot it in at an angle at this point just do the best you can and done that works surprisingly well ice that's welded on and just coupled in place slid over this pipe here and this is about what its gonna look like the rest is all going to be done just framework so it's quite simple there are three more things that I need to do and that is to bring up an arm here and then put a pivot point here on the side of the tank here that I can use as the inside of a hand so it'll fit inside of a piece of pipe up on this stand and then I need to make some sort of cradle that this can fall over onto in order for it to be a forge type setup alright so if it didn't make sense before we've got a foundry Forge it's quite heavy by the way foundry Forge oh god please with this it does rotate fairly well on that as well as I can expect steel on steel with no grease [Music] [Music] well the bracing is all done but one thing I just thought of that I realized I didn't consider yet is how I'm going to get this thing out through that door [Applause] alright if you're just joining me from the beginning segment of this video then I'm sure we can definitely get a deep understanding of the soul system without going to the build process and if you watch the whole video through I thank you very much and I hope you were able to learn something from it and get a little more detail about exactly this system all right so we're gonna start from the beginning of the process and work our way towards the final result just to keep an order to what we're explaining and hopefully give you guys a complete understanding of how this works if you're left with any questions then please feel free to comment in the comment section down below I'll be more than happy to get back to you with hopefully good answers to whatever questions you have so we're gonna start at the very beginning so our first stop is actually our air intake now this is a blower inside of this housing which I just made out of assembling some tin cans basically this is a number 10 can which just happened to fit perfectly inside of the blower for a late 90s model Toyota rav4 this is actually the heater blower so when you turn your car on to hot or cold and you turn the fan on to a high or low or whatever this is what's doing all that work they're very quiet fans they move a high volume and also they push through a lot of crevices in your cars - so they have a plenty of force behind them so I like using them for a lot of projects if I have them on hand so number 10 can normal soup can I've got a great to prevent stuff from going in and then I've got another soup can tell me off the side here and this is all soldered together just with metalworking solder then I've got a cone that I met out of thin a thin sheet metal's which is soldered onto here and then weld it on to this one and a quarter inch piece of schedule 80 pipe now one quick thing before I go any further remember that this is all made from scrap material that's what I like doing because it's a great way to save money and it's also a great way to recycle not to mention on top of this whole quarantine thing a lot of the metal shops around where I live are non-essential and so I wasn't able to purchase steel for any of this project but that's totally understandable so anyway back to what we were doing basically this pipe just feeds air into our burn vessel and this is also where we have the introduction of our fuel which is our oil I've got a VAT up there that you saw earlier in the video if you watch the whole thing through or you might have seen it in my waste oil furnace video but basically it's just a five gallon jug with a brass gate valve but just threaded into the cap and I can open that up to allow oil down and through the tube now the gate valves are kind of nice because they're brass on brass there are no rubber gaskets or anything to become you know impregnated with oil it just avoids a lot of problems so is it the best valve for this maybe not maybe it is I don't know but it's what I'm using and that's the reason why so I've got that running through a bit of a 3/8 inch hose and that runs into this brake line now this brake line is a metal brake line of course and it's quite long right now because I don't know where I'm going to put this yet I don't know where I'm going to need to run this oil feed tube so I'm leaving it just for now but of course this would be quite a bit shorter and there's no actual reason for this length so that oil gravity feeds down into the tube where it goes about halfway down to this piece of one and a quarter inch pipe and then it makes a Manitou degree but when you're bending this be very careful not to make any pinches they could restrict the flow of oil because this does require quite a bit oh and one more thing I would recommend using some sort of drip system we're able to visually see how much oil is dropping through and you can do that with a simple tee or you can do that with a simple I don't know what you call them but they're but they're the four way female on every side sort of plus sign pipe fittings where you can run four pieces of pipe together those work really well and you can see because you have light coming to the other side the oil dripping down so you can know how much you're actually adding to the system so that goes down here feats of the tube and then it runs into a burn vessel like I said and this is just actually a tank from an air compressor that I recycled it's got a lot of fancy things on the side but none of those are actually are actually important to the functionality so on top we've got just a 2-inch cap because this is where ignition takes place where we actually light the system and the oil so we're gonna remove that and down inside of there which is quite dark I doubt you'll be able to see but you're really not missing much basically that tube just goes about half an inch into this pipe at an angle and that's to generate a cyclone effect in here and that's for a couple of reasons number one we want to make sure that our oil and air are very well mixed number two because if you I'm not sure if you're familiar with how a fire triangle works so basically you need three things to support kibosh combustion and that is heat fuel and air now we have our fuel and we have our air in order to sustain combustion on something that's so difficult to ignite like oil we have to have a source of heat so it can actually a demise turn into a vapor where it will burn very easily and very effectively and also very completely there will be very little emission put out by any sort of waste oil device if it's constructed properly which is actually pretty counterintuitive to think about but it isn't that true but anyway this oil feed line runs for just right flush to the end of the air inlet pipe and then that's where the oil and air mix they swirl around in here and then eventually they make their way out of this which is just a piece of axle actually it's three inches on the outside and then we have another piece going through here and we have a piece of two inch flat bar that I curled into a circle and then welded on to this part here and then X is a rotating coupling so what happens is when I adjust my lever to go into forge mode into foundry mode or whatever you can see they just rotate independently and because they're the same size and that's a pretty snug fit there is no slop and it should work just fine with no issues the fire you're going to see at the end of this explanation is actually the first fire of this device but I'm pretty confident that it'll work anyway this is a believe a 10 gallon propane tank I cut the end off of of course and then that tube that I just mentioned goes in and you can probably see it just runs about flush with this well here and we also want to generate a cyclone inside of this just to try to distribute our heat evenly around whatever it is that we're trying to heat up now one thing I didn't think about is the fact that because you see that the inlet to the foundry is actually up at the top what would be the table when it's in forge mode that might not effectively get heat to whatever we're trying to put in to heat to Forge if it's sitting in the bottom so you might have to set it up on blocks I don't know of course I haven't done any forging with it yet I've actually never even forged so but this is gonna be a great starting tool so anyway we have a refractory cement here and what I've done is I've actually just taken a mix of very approximately 50% plaster of Paris and 50% sand mixed them with a portion amount of water to get a nice slurry and then I poured this into it and also had a form in the center of course to take up the space necessary that was done before even cutting the hole in here which if you watch the whole video through you probably would have seen that but for everyone knew I'm just explaining in great detail so we're all hopefully on the same understanding there's about three inches of material and the bottom as well and something that you need to consider is the fact that this really what's up Jimmy she has to make into every video I swear you wouldn't keep this outlet a little ways off the bottom of your container so when it's in foundry mode if you have any breaches in the crucible and all of your liquid metal pour out they remain in the bottom and they don't backflow through the system and end up in here well they will basically be impossible to get out it anyway moving on from that okay I'm sorry but look at this look at this ham okay so matted on this side of the propane tank is a bit of one inch pipe and that is hopefully if my measurements were correct about right in the center of rotation of this pipe here the inlet pipe so because it's rotating on that cuff we want it to rotate the same amount here so you don't have any jamming and so far it seems to work pretty well so just to explain what's going on here it's really not terribly complicated the only thing actually attached to this tank is this bit of one inch water pipe and inside of that one inch water pipe is this bit of one it shaft here in case you don't know what a pipe is measured by the internal diameter not the externals so we have our one inch shaft with a hole drilled in this end to accept a 3/8 inch bolt and also of course there is corresponding holes drilled in the piece of one-inch pipe and then that's put through there as a pan just to hold everything together and then that shaft runs through another bit of one-inch pipe and this was just on the pipe because I pulled that out of the scrap bin I really don't know what it's for but I thought it looked cool so I left it but then coming over to here of course we need something to grab on to you and give us leverage and so I just used a piece of rebar here and then actually a railroad spike on top because it has a nice handle shape to it and then I made this mechanism that runs all the way down to pull this latch which of course just sits in this little catch here let me give an idea of how that works so we pulled a lever which is very satisfying to do by the way hello I want you to appreciate this okay okay so we've got a connecting rod running all the way there runs down onto this sort of knife latch here and of course that's got a pivot point here which is pretty self-explanatory but it's locked in place as is lift it up and then I what's down here it sits in this cradle which is just made out of two inch flat bar and it sits in there and then gravity keeps it in place because this is actually very heavy and then the frame as you can probably see is just constructed from one and a half inch by one and a half inch angle iron that I had laying around leftover from the tank project that's also where the axles came from by the way and then just some various bits metal here and there for support so yeah that's I think about it hopefully that answers any questions you might have but of course all of that means nothing until you see it work the next the start up procedure alright guys so now we're actually going to start off our system and the first we're going to do is start off with a little piece of rag like this we're gonna poke it down into our Inlet or our ignition port rather and we're just going to leave a little bit of a tail sticking out now to that we're gonna apply some more waste motor oil just a little bit doesn't really take much just a little little teeny just tiny bit just lit little itty itty bitty bit just like that much there we go and then all we had left to do from here is of course light it on fire this is the fun part now it is quite bright out today so I'm not sure if you'll be able to see the plane but we're just going to ignite that make sure it's burning well and then we drop it out pretty simple right now that we've got our flame going down in there we're actually gonna come over here and we're going to apply power to our motor just like that and now we're gonna go ahead and throw our cut back on and this will take some time to get up to temperature because in order for it to function really well this all has to be hot before they can have them also one quick thing when you're pouring the oil over it it's you don't really want to get it on the outside of this that's gonna smoke like it anyway I remove the cap just to give it a little bit more airflow because it's easier for the flame to start when it's going straight up because of the heat you'll know it's ready when it starts sounding like you live next to an airport and I wish you guys could feel the heat coming out of this thing make sure you have a well cleared area around where there's no potential fire hazards because this thing in itself is a fire hazard so keep that in mind safe to say it's only been about five minutes actually and safe to say this is this is definitely hot enough alright guys it's a little bit janky but this is actually my crucible for today it's just a steel hubcap so it can withstand a lot higher temperatures than what the aluminum can so it should work pretty well also that was a great pun I just like to point that out so what we're gonna do crushed up some aluminum cans throw them in there and I've actually got some aluminum from a previous melt that I just did with some firewood and a hole in the ground and a hairdryer so this is just melted down cans as well we're going to throw that in and we're just gonna see if we can get this up to a decent enough temperature to actually liquify I have I have no doubts that we will guys one interesting thing is that this actually doesn't work nearly as cleanly as I thought it would although it's not that bad it's not actually as clean as my way so a furnace that I used to eat my shop just surprising cuz I guarantee you this is much much much much much much much much much much much hotter I have no idea what's going on in there guys I can't see a thing that's hot well that's melting over there I just wanted to go over a quick side note whenever you're working with any kind of flame be sure to work with cotton clothing because if it's a synthetic fiber then it can actually melt and it will burn and stick to your skin like napalm so it's something that you don't hear about much but it's very very important to wear cotton clothing when working with any sort of open flame so please be safe guys this is I'm not sure if you can see this or not but it's actually glowing red this tank is glowing red red hot this is no joke be very safe with this this is why I actually keep my oil fairly far away so we have any kind of malfunctions we don't have anything that's really really bad hopefully we don't add any fuel with any fires it's actually burning a lot better now I'm pleased with this I'm very very pleased all right I guess this just wasn't warmed up enough and by the way I'm keeping all of this in is to give you guys a genuine beginning process to this because it's all part of experimentation right this is a brand new device to me the concept has been done before but this layout I don't believe has ever been done on YouTube so it's all part of the learning experience so we can see now that we're actually burning totally clean I don't see any smoke coming out of this whatsoever and we're definitely still generating enough heat I've turned out to get the camera to close but you can see the Lumina down there total evil well a little mushy but they'll get there alright now that we're burning a lot better I think is actually what happened was a lot of the oil that I dumped in there was burning off just what have you got that big flame so now what I'm gonna do is I'm actually gonna take the top propane tank and I'm gonna set it on there just keep some of that heat and hopefully heat it a little bit more efficiently I'll make a proper door eventually but today is not that day what do you think guys should I start a cooking show okay so yeah we're not going to be doing any casting with the today but the point has been made that it doesn't back I went ahead to shut that off just so I could hear myself think for once so this is obviously molten aluminum as you can see it did in fact complete it and this opens up a whole new opportunity for projects I can now make cast aluminum parts I have a lot of projects in mind for what I'm going to do with this in the future but if you have any suggestions of things you'd like to see built out of cast aluminum or parts like this made or whatever then please let me know in the comment section down below because I'm always open to ideas so I'm just gonna let this cool down again I'm not gonna be doing any casting today but that'll hopefully be in an upcoming video hopefully you're not disappointed well it's proving the viability of the furnace and that's exactly what I intended to do and now just for fun even though there's really no difference I'm gonna turn it back on and put it in forge mode see what happens all right our shutdown procedure is pretty simple what we're going to do first is actually clover here and we're gonna shut off our oil so now we have no fuel running to our system now what I'm actually going to choose to do I'm actually going to leave this blower going and I'm gonna let this burn completely out which it actually sounds like it already did so we were putting in just a perfect amount of oil which is fantastic actually little bit more may have been good to get a little more heat but I'm happy with the results and I hope you are too so I'm gonna let this run fresh cool air through this whole thing just to take care of the residual heat to make it safer and I'm gonna stick with it until it's cool and I'm sure there won't be any hazards that exist one thing I'd like to mention is that this is completely cool this needs to remain cool of course because we don't want our oil heating up inside of this pipe or we could have a fire leading back or a flash off oil or something really bad that we just don't want to deal with so this is totally cool to the touch surprisingly considering its proximity to that and all that solder is totally intact alright guys this is actually the end of the video now you've seen its functionality you've seen the building and you know my reasons behind building it so I hope that you learned something from this video I hope that if you thought about building one of these and weren't sure where to start this could help you out and to you again if you have any questions and please let me know and I'll try to answer them to the best of my abilities I hope you guys all have a great day I hope you're staying safe out there if you'd like to support the channel the best thing you can do right now is either leave a like on the video or if you could subscribe to not miss any more cool content especially the future projects involving this that would be greatly appreciated until next time take care [Music]

Channel: Randomn

Views: 113,931

Keywords: how to, diy, do it yourself, make, build, create, building, making, scrap, metal, steel, homemade, weekend, project, foundry, forge, furnace, waste, oil, motor, engine, vegetable, burning, burn, refractory, aluminum, scrapping, reuse, recycle, melt, melting, smelt, smelting, junk, repurposed, re purpose, DIY, soda can, cans, casting, cast, mold

Id: l95fkSaaOEE

Length: 36min 28sec (2188 seconds)

Published: Sat May 30 2020