Boulder Finals | Salt Lake City | Mens | 2024 | Cut Edition

well yakob will be the last one out s amagasa the first one out uh it's a good question I don't know the exact rules I think it's just to speed things along and also at this level four minutes they should be able to read the Boulder and this is this 3D render of the Boulder and Alex you said something about like traveling 30 foot on this Boulder it's a long one yeah it's so long I the distance between the starting hold and the finishing hold is is at least 25 ft I mean it's really tremendously far in a way that's hard to do justice looking at it on the screen like this and it is going to be S amagasa he better be cuz he's going to have to jump his way across this thing wait was he the one that caught the one-legged squat in semi-finals oh wow it was just an incredible one leg good squad all well let's see what Su could do he's had one attempt here oh around the corner big fall yeah he gets going again the swing just building the momentum that right leg runs hits the black anything's possible you know the competitors are very strong and they probably could but that's not the intention yeah oh that was perfect execution that looked beautiful now he can rest in the corner his body and Bridge yeah this is great wow he really moved so quickly through that that was impressive he's just now but the foot Bubbles and he falls yeah let's see if he so in this problem specifically The Zone really separates the two different types of coordination Boulders but it seems like the second coordination problem is going to be maybe a little trickier and a little more Fitzy yeah it's one of those you got to kind of calm yourself down yeah sometimes you see the athletes drinking water anything just to them to stop yeah oh that's so beautiful when he does it smooth as you can be that is yeah that was butter yeah right right 41 seconds s fell on this white volume watch his right foot stays this time oh that was a good execution that was that was really well executed all right well serat and Raku is out but all these moves do translate you know it's like any one of these competitors you know would be one of the best ayro clams in the world absolutely they just have to be indoors at the moment dis wall again see I don't know why they just make him wait in and come out the other gate but beyond oh that was well done yeah wild wasn't it but he made it work one arm so serat now stands up into the corner has a look over on the right yeah nice checkpoint little opportunity to relax compose and set up for the last move and a little peer before sorting the feet out oh he's getting tricks him tricky and this is where his amazing ability to stick to volumes comes in here but he's going to have to drop the left foot wow that was impressive I didn't see that P I didn't I didn't see that coming either and it's funny because the root Setters told us that that shouldn't be possible but this isn't near their physical limit no but it's just testing how quickly they can learn the movement how quickly they can execute the movement that's the inter thing between some oh sorry he wants to go kind almost statically here look he's obviously having a feel on this I mean I reckon he'll give it another maybe one more go and then he'll have to he is trying it again but that will count I'm not sure if that was a judge just called him off there for not being in a proper [Applause] position the tops in the zones are the important thing so if they spend a couple extra goes learning the moves here doesn't I'm sure they're not really stressed you know get drawn into the a different way and I'm glad yanx Chang it up now but that interesting yeah it's interesting he's doing the one hit he Yan FL is outrageously strong as these kind of moves but the coordination thing slab climbing he's working on it he's aging terribly he's got to hurry up no I just wonder because some of the parkour moves he's not really young or old so no it's what makes kind of yakob really impressive the fact he been oh that was good he got both hands to him and remember if you're watching at home Yanik has not seen any of the athletes com try this Boulder at all almost certainly knows that the other two competitors have topped this Boulder so he feels the pressure that he has to do well on it yep and this seems more intense than semifinals cuz he's the only person in the whole audience out just watching him D his one roller exactly oh that was wild and he missed it yeah it's interesting actually because his last attempts as well he's been hitting with the right hand but kind of missing with the left it's like he's just not quite nailing the coordination which is certainly no judgment on my part cuz there's no chance I can do this move but well fatigue as well comes in I mean he been throwing himself at this 3 and a half minutes hasn't giving himself much of a break and it's cuz he needs the Zone he knows everyone else oh and he's getting further away though all right yeah the root set is working hard right Mai narasaki let see what he can do he's got a different kind of length this man oh and he just made that look so slow almost like what cl's called deadp pointing kind of like standing to something as opposed to wildly dining past it oh now he's trying the static method I don't want to project for competitors but I do feel like there's a there's a vulnerability almost in in these paddle like as you're flying out of control and thing you know she just does something ridiculous but it works for her but Mai he was doing the the biggest jumps think I've ever seen in a commercial gym it was insane oh that was that was it that's our crowd they've been filtering in it's a soldout venue tickets have been hot prop Andes in oh wow come on I feel like he needs another 10 seconds to chill but he must be feeling the time pressure he knows he's got to go now has he learned yes better you know I've known there's been finals problems that been braided maybe 7A but it's the weirdness and the time that makes such a big difference and mate though much better W that was nice he's got one go at this you can see the learning 30 seconds W look how big he is he's stemming off the other foot that nobody else touched yeah he's a tall man I wonder if he's going to be able to span out to Blue no oh he's going to run back but he no he doesn't have time he can't do it surely not you got to respect the effort yeah he's come close but never quite this close I think a bit bit of that and then maybe not as experienced but he is just on form right now and he's trying to stop me yeah everybody tries it a little bit yeah then they would have chatted about the possibility of it but yeah actually that is I I wonder if they did I wonder if they if they all had theorized that that's the way they knew the sets would have tried to avoid that I looked at that crimp and I was like well can't use that oh wow he actually did look like he could almost stop there yeah yeah he's about to waste 2 minutes trying a way that's just not really going to work but you never know because if he does it then we'll both eat our words yeah exactly and it's happened to me many times oh wow did he avoid it all W that's what it looked like yeah we need like a live comment stream so we can see what uh other oh he's avoiding yeah he is avoiding it I think something watching this on the screen it's important to remember that each of the competitors is a totally different size and shape uh yeah m is tall so m is 188 okay well all right he goes again with a minute and half on the clock two hands on swings kicks into the wall good catch good work from Yan Kash as he rocks new method again I I love seeing new methods every time it's so impressive now he's got a little checkpoint try to compose yeah nice and relaxed oh that was good that's not his approach I guess he's thinking it's fairly low percentage his first move and like this and now he's got a bit more chance yeah yeah I hear that I really enjoyed the semi-finals yeah it was spectacular go back and watch that oh that was really good now don't rush it he's got plenty of time 26 seconds is a [Music] lot right foot on the white volume trying to find some rubber heals way down as much possible looks around the corner it is blind until he sees it two hands gets it can he hold the oh that was so good all right yakob Shuba yob there he is and the lead is kind of his specialism so come out and blast it here and bold was really impressive he looked incredible in the semi-finals five out of six of them haven't been able to do it you know does imply that it's probably not that easy to do absolutely yeah maybe but this it is a different kind of sport isn't it like this this style of climbing and it's not a bad or good thing it's just different what makes our sport so good yeah do subscribe to our YouTube uh Daily Show for that one if you want to see Alex break both his ankles and wreck his shin sliding down a volume yeah it does I mean there's was of dedication poured into this yakob with his classic tongue out side of his mouth move swings around the corner oh really good that's incredible and that's what I'm saying how quickly they learn because his first go looked I mean I don't want to say uncoordinated but it it looked clumsy is flailing yeah and and now just so poised yeah look that was only one minute ago and he's putting that foot up like s did oh wow right so he's stretching he's not entirely comfortable but he's made it work wow but has he got the range on this crimp he can't really see it from here yakob takes a moment drops the foot grabs the Crim no peels off but this is his last climb of this comp so he might as well leave all the skin on the wall that's the spirit yeah break yourself right goes again still got three problems to go that's a good point oh back to being a bit wild 36 [Applause] seconds right starts this swing better from yakob speeding through now rocks up towards the Zone hold wow he'll have time for just a breath but he'll have to go my hands are sweating so intends isn't it and is he going to get the foot up cuz that took him time he's only got 10 seconds he can't he's just got to do it no no he's going to put the foot 5 Seconds he'll hear the buzzers this is a real last chance he's got it and he has got it wow incredible and you can hear the crowd going wild oh that is as close as you get and that is brilliant wow all right let's have a look at our next Boulder shall we uh the nasty holds involved in this one be start on the RO The Zone hold is a non hold yeah and they did week we'll talk about what they've changed because in the middle you see that black crimp on the left there's now a blocker there uh placed just to make it a bit harder to be able to lock it yeah cuz it didn't look hard enough before huh just had to make it a little harder far too easy I would have cruised it and then slopey holds an undercling a top hold and you can see footprints on the left where the athletes need to kick their foot in order to get the top of this Boulder so this Boulder is more of a quintessential classic power Boulder well the Setters have climbed on and part of that I think is psychological want to know that it's clean yeah now that's the block the one he's got with his left and he cut loose on it as well yeah and the Setters even talked about how they had to do that move a particular way and they suspected that the competitors would be able to to do it as he just did it and on that first attempt he only did three moves but man three really hard moves yeah he's got some numb fingers after that un like he already cleaned up his method from the first go oh wow that slope is terrible yeah that's the worst hold I was I couldn't even believe it and now he's going to go to an undercling as well oh wow you know obviously always matters a little bit but it's probably not their real goal for the season I think that's the kind of move that on your first go you just give it 100% you just bear down and then on the second go you find that your fingers just don't quite have the same though you know I stand corrected cuz he's the Boss look at that yeah flicks in gets the heel up to towards the slier this next move though is hard think he needs to raise his foot can't he almost managed to get the foot up though always good to try your best and he's zoned on it already so there's not a huge amount to be gained if he can't get to the top though I I feel like all the competitors are always going to bet on themselves you know like believe in themselves okay here we go still going on the low foot but yeah see he needed the higher right foot he needed more more height all right so I to un R I was like what that's what I thought of the second I saw it oh trying a whole new method that means he's got to yeah cross underneath and then interesting unusual well he managed to save the attempt and look how strong serat is here that just look casual for him this is where he has higher footo yeah easy oh he's getting a range I think he'll get it next time you talk about pressure as well considering what you've done yeah and I know it's different totally it's so interesting but the you know any pressure I fa as a climber is always self selected self-chosen well what can to do he's got two minutes on the clock here up with the right hand locks that crimp off I'm not sure what was different about the attempt that he just made and why it it didn't work for him and then this looks so easy again yeah that probably says more about me as a climber than him that I can't tell what the difference is and like why it's easy oh oh he's having a hard time like getting it high enough into it you'll find that the athletes are like climbing right up to the very last second they might have got the first Zone but they haven't got the second one yet whereas in this format they tend to rest a little bit more save themselves though I kind of prefer any format that optimizes for just max effort you know where they just go right up to the end as hard as I can go I can't believe he's just hanging on that sloper with one hand oh wow that time he tried the right foot yeah but still didn't work all right Yanick is out we feel like he might enjoy this one yeah the haircut is quite isy new I was a bit shocked oh yeah I think it suited looks looks like I think it looks strong yeah it does exactly yeah it definitely looks strong and he's got stacked I said it in the semi he's massive at the moment you mean muscular yeah muscular exactly yeah oh look at that hop with the left foot that is very nice and he hasn't brought the right foot up to the higher one oh wow he looked like he could almost stick that without the foot if he wants to do well he has to do this Boulder so pressure time for yanic flowy 2 minutes 22 on the clock clock just stretches and hops again with the foot that was a nice way to do it though it's very elegant strong he's doing the same thing isn't he but oh he tried to get the foot on at least they're not really allowed to talk they're not allowed to talk this is the thing they got to be very very careful especially then not speaking in English and you know there might be questions about it so generally the coaches will stay pretty quiet but will they say things like you know good effort or yeah they'll encourage but even that is tricky because if it's code for that's the correct beta then yeah wow oh so close he was yelling things like you know move with confidence and this isn't code it was not competition there's nothing like bad about this but basically the things he was saying sort of had certain meanings of like you know like you're doing well keep moving quickly like flow through this you know as opposed to other things like relax you know might might like slow back down you know basically can oh that's a shame cuz he changed his foot he did put the right and it was better I think a winner from this I mean yako was in form but who yeah yak's looking great but the other problems are so unusual as well that anybody could do them or nobody could do them yeah nice to see oh c wow what Poise yeah incredible and with that immediately KCK oh and that's why they blocked that hole but that was directly to the correct foot at least so yeah oh is he allowed to start that way oh wow because of the is uh oh my God my throat is gone I'm going to let you talk for a sec wow that's interesting he's tall enough that he was able to skip the starting move which does feel slightly unfair in a way but but then now you see him struggling to to fit in that box so it's hard to know if that was easy or not confidence but maybe also just strategy in way you know that you don't have twoo good Burns anyway like [Applause] why strong yeah looked better that time just holds that drops the toe back down interesting he's trying to keep his feet on smart he got the right foot up oh he tried to go to the bottom part of the hole and stick the the bottom of that sloper you know just oh wow he's trying to backward yeah first grip that looks gross elbow wow oh God Savage Oh God that that's that makes me never want to try that ball of Bron yeah apologies not be particularly expressive there but we both were just W that was horrifying wow he looked great though all right so he approaches again let's see is he going to do it yes he is oh no he's doing it again his thumb is backward that's right ladies and gentlemen that is a backward thumb a magic trick in the oh my gosh he creep around must be something that he's uniquely good at or you know accustomed to to to using to his Advantage well if he wins you can ask him no I hope so I hope he wins all right pressing him at right toe though he hasn't upgraded the right foot yet comes up into the under it for a didn't even move that left foot up though oh he goes again W No this must be something that he's that he does routinely that he's good at because that is very unusual right hits the block crimp adjusts the feet so far very smooth definitely has learned from his previous attempts can oh he's going there trying something different oh that it's going to push him away yeah it's a good idea but not the way Lando is a like very good young com climber and ice climber um but I yeah last year they were outside in the field they were making so much noise it was brilliant this year they're inside making even more noise noly he used a starting holds differently again each competitor is doing a different thing to get off the ground different feet as well yep [Applause] wow yeah smart the match exactly the right position oh oh he went for the low sloper it looked like if he'd gone for the high sloper and kicked the foot that would have been good but yeah electric is a very root set of terminology it's what they to talk amongst themselves to describe certain sequences and moves big drop KN there yeah I feel like of of sports that Spectators watch I feel like climbing might be one that's very underappreciated though I suppose any sport when you go to a Le here he goes high with oh you know just what's going on cuz you're like oh he's climbing you're like yeah but they're all climbing and they're all doing it so differently yeah and they're all doing it somewhat differently than intended has he got the power It's So Physical he came close but he's got to recreate all of this again and yet looking even smoother yeah this is the move come on yakob yes almost well it's not going to be on this one but boy that was close but he's still in touch yeah [Applause] that looked as close as anyone has looked on that right let's have a look at this next Boulder there it is it's wild it's neon pink and yellow and again these Graphics really don't do justice to how far the boulders travel because these panels are quite long and so the competitors are moving really quite far across the wall yeah all the way I mean this this volume there on the right is the biggest hole I think I've ever seen in real life I mean it's huge it's humongous yeah it must be very expensive yeah you finish at the top the three the 180 move is down at the bottom so you step kind of into that massive pink hold cuz when it first came onto the scene people didn't know what to do but then they went away and learned it and I think they've seen it but a mantle this is more like normal Prim this is normal priming that that looks smooth beautiful but the fact there a huge he's not going to do the big jump as it is oh no well that's the wrong method the slickest thing on Earth yeah I love this mantle a so RAR to see him at they're trying to figure out who's been doing tricep day yeah he's oh maybe maybe they didn't nail maybe the oh wow but there is some Clues so for example the inside of that hole has been covered in rubber you can't see it here but there can you see how much rubber that's very deliberate so it's but you could also imagine that rubber being from the stem once you stick the left foot jumping the way he is then kicking the right foot back oh wow and he actually looked pretty good like that and so what he's trying is you know I mean very unconven way because it's it's it's insane but this is slightly more normal you know he's jumping to the hold it's facing towards him I'm really hoping you don't try to put 180s into some of your solos please don't no yeah just cuz you've seen it Alex yeah no this is really going to broaden my repertoire oh please no I can't handle it right well he hasn't changed his method yet oh and he's made work wow and he's stuck that wow well there you go what do the Setters know about climbing exactly now he's standing in a very small jib that's kind of yeah his and there's another jib above it you can just see there so he's got two things to stand on but it's I think this may be intended to go on the foot on the one that we can see and then step through to the second foot but he's kind of going to the second one directly and then trying to come in no I think but you know he looks very composed so he's got a plan that's the jib we're talking about great shot guys stepping into that that's perfect and now the left foot around the corner is supposed to be blind and he can't quite lean out to see it and he's just he's almost touching it that's so close he's got to slide that foot down the notex to fin hit it he couldn't get it oh yeah he just can't see it we still got a minute though and this is the sort of problem that isn't that physically taxing not like the last problem he can try again while they're brushing he's just like may as well get right back up there look at I mean that literally took him 3 seconds to get back in position oh wow another you remember that that the so is the one who did that incredible one like a squat save in the semi-finals are we allowed to pull up instant replays effort cuz that was the craziest thing I've ever seen there's a few things in the semi you should go back and watch if you're listening to us talking oh that was close he gets it oh and then he's passed on it too he almost managed to stick it I just wanted to see him do it with this method yeah 30 seconds man that mantle is looking faster and [Applause] faster wow it's just incredible how well he's learned that move yeah kicking the right foot on the wall as well to stop the momentum is clever they must practice rapid firing Boulders like this I mean I suppose every time you do a competition you practice it but they have simulations where they work on stuff like this as well all right stic let's see what you can do yeah and we're expecting him to maybe try the same thing they read it together they speak the same language maybe this is uh what he'll try too a little more Awkward from serat with this yeah not looking quite as good on the manle jeez and remember s is a very good outdoor climb and S less experience so maybe he's probably never done a move that easy in a competition before I mean that first move is by far the easiest thing that they've done in this competition yeah you guys to jump oh wow and even more wildly this isn't at all what the setter expected and yet they're all doing it a totally different way which is surprisingly similar to The Outdoor climbing experience when you establish new Roots out doors you always clean the route around make sure they're no loose rocks you have sort of a plan you expect people will try to climb in a certain way and then the very first person you see climbing and just grab some random thing 2 MERS to the left and you're like oh no well that in some ways is the the challenge of being one of the strongest climbers in the world is sometimes you do just try to overpower things or they think it's supposed to be hard because it's the finals in World Cup there's a very famous last year in Hatchi the first compet of season there was a move none of the athletes had done before and uh everyone fell off it and then once they were told mey Shar did it in his trainers afterwards like it was probably 6A according to the Setters but they just didn't know how to do it so yeah that's so interesting we'll just we we'll put a few in um in semi-finals and in finals we'll give you jumps and then one hand crack you can just one one of the last competitions I did was uh I think it's masters of bowering in Santiago and Chile and uh I was there it was a North Bas event and so I was there C to right and the Setters intentionally set basically a hand crack problem for the two Trad climbers as sort of a constellation prize and it was basically the only thing that we could do cuz we couldn't touch any of the other Bowers oh wow oh wow good balance yeah he makes it work now crimping The Edge there it's been left deliberately for the fingers and he stuck that differently than Thena yeah right foot back the yeah look how bad that sloper is at top as well yeah it's really not a hold it's just a place to pause to like find balance oh wow and just he just found that foot perfectly such good accuracy from Sarat one move away now haven't had a top in a while is this going to be it it should be it is good control and serat has a long moment facing the wall breathing deeply that is massive for the score he was on top and he's extended that lead now he's having a long look at it for sure he's probably trying to like me just like what are these holes he's like surely not he gets stood up into the mantle holds the bucket of a jug that oh he's he's trying trying different things I think he wants to stand on it no he he's going to Spring off it no okay okay similar similar move but different approach does every comp have this degree of variation no it doesn't like it it depends like this has been fascinating because of that um yeah I mean it's a hard thing to do and often it kind of happens by accident that climbers find ways through [Applause] it wow wow like a gazelle on the you know being hunted by that print yeah about to be eaten by that cheetah Prince lab there's a whole zoo going on here a couple yeah this is [Music] wow you see that he just did the mantle without even using The Jug yeah he's got some strong legs all right cross feet okay starts this spring let's watch his height wow perfect that was springy oh wow speed climber is warming up is that yeah so the speed climbers are warming up next to us here and uh that is coming right after this competition that was a display of athleticism oh it's if you haven't seen it before it's their warm up is crazy right Yan getting his feet on that tiny jib that's there stiff shoes in order to make that work looking very well composed let's see if he can find that blind left foot oh really nicely play if you'd watched Yanik a couple of years ago like the progress he's made on moves like this has been incredible you can see that he's still trying to crimp the back of that volume he's trying to find any kind of hold he really just needs to trust that left foot ease onto it press up that that's easier set than done yeah he's not 100% comfortable is he yet no he like he he just wants something to hold yeah but really this is designed to be a no hands just stand up move on the foot here he goes here he goes pushing pushing and once he commed easy and he's back in and the fact that I know that the fact that's a slab he would just be delighted yeah I'll have to have a look I don't think so oh now M making it look he's taller it is more awkward but I wonder if he's just going to try to span over there I think he yeah he's doing it right this is the intended beater oh kind of we'll see he's doing it very statically wow and look how much easier it is w and The Crowd Goes Wild because it looks amazing but when he left the stage after observation he was doing that spin interesting that no one else tried it no though he did look tall enough that he was able to almost reach his foot over there statically and then this move also looks like you can just yeah he can just look over and place the foot oh so precisely he's got a toe on now he's just got a rock and commit hits the left hand brings the right in and a flash that was that was beautiful all right he's got mantle first yeah let's see if team Germany Austria talked about this the same way yes he's mantling at the other direction not a big difference but uh interesting that he chose to go the opposite direction than the other guys he is going to do it oh oh maybe not he now he's reflecting oh oh wow so St that's a totally different way again yeah no one's quite tried that I think there were two things in his head though I think he he's obviously yeah he was trying to decide yeah but because of the distance I think it looks jumpable I think the whole 180 spin twist thing is such an improbable bizarre move that you'd have to have a tremendous amount of confidence to decide I'm going to be the guy that just jumps face out towards the crowd yeah it's just slightly embarrassing it's not the way yeah oh almost found the balance there cuz they knew the Setters would bring it back so it's in their head but yeah on something like this it's never been done like this how much do you think they rehear specific moves like that endlessly yeah okay until it's like locked in nice wow and again sticking it a completely different way yeah bridging across well you've seen so much variation on these problems finds the G tocks almost in yeah looks very composed now just has to switch the feet it almost looks like his one foot because it's facing up so much is blocking the other foot that he has to bring into match I think you're right and he's can maybe bring that yeah he's trying to find room for his feet oh he's found it no he's he's he's there he's doing great oh my still yeah now that was actually just hard to tell from the camera angle oh he's so close oh he's missing it there it is wow yeah he had enough control there to try for that footo hold three times this is going to be quick if he can get this done reaching up dragging that right foot up a cheetah hole top yeah he's Z like the three-part celebration there that's really good only Mi has done it as the new score everybody else has done it as some variation of I mean it's still not quite old school but slightly more conventional ways Yak is making a meal of the mantle though tried to Palm on the left and now he's sitting on it well it wasn't pretty but he's up yeah but you get it done yeah and he's going to go for it I think he's getting set for the 180 twist but but now he's second guessing he's thinking about the jump he's thinking about spanning it he's weighing his options oh wow he doesn't want to watch that doesn't want to be standing on all that choke yeah that's interesting though because we kind of saw this on problem one all right here he goes again much well actually not much prettier no prettier but we saw in problem one where his first attempts didn't look that quite in then he quickly improved and learned the move oh wow that oh wow that left foot full flick and I mean and look at the tension in his whole body and you saw it on his face that looked difficult what a boulder problem this is yeah and again completely different method I never would have guessed that there' be so many different ways on this no drives those toes into the jib yeah careful on the slope and now he does nothing to crimp up there trying to balance finding that foot got to stand on it trust it remove that left foot and then find that blind hold but there's a lot going on sneaks it down he's so close not that time most of the competitors have both their hands up on that so yeah he's realizing that he has to leave that right hand behind Which is less secure but yeah more committing now trying to find that foot oh just didn't quite find the balance not that he's one of the shorter competitors but yeah pretty average in the yakob yeah right in the middle but still he just didn't quite make it to that left foot before he I can't believe that totally it was a miracle all right here we go goes again better on the mantle honestly the mantle just looks like a and he's a very very good outdoor climber as well yeah yeah though he mostly climbs the hardest overhanging routes in the world you you don't really know him for his mantles no you don't he's going again all right minute on the clock for yakob though in some ways I think he's doing it that way cuz he did it the first time he knows it works it's better just to do what he did you know I'm sure he could do it more elegant way but why bother if you have a way that works just keep doing it yeah exact I'm surprised he hasn't changed this now cuz he thought about the spin at the beginning yeah but then he did it the other way that's yeah 42 seconds not really enough time to change your beater is it mhm oh that was such an unlikely way just I wonder if he can replicate that it's the first time we've seen him look a bit [Applause] flustered no oh he's done isn't he he knows he knows that he just botched it yeah and you get the feeling the momentum has changed for him after that the one the previous bow yeah if anybody can't make Zone on problem four I mean they they'll probably drop quite a ways yeah unless nobody makes Zone on problem four yeah which might Happ yeah which might happens cuz it also looks impossible well it's facing the audience pressing up into the corner into okay holds and then into Pockets which are a bit nasty The Zone hold one especially also with no feet so on the pocket into a completely no texture see-through hold we've seen a few of them at this competition and there's the top and it's a big old paddle sequence to get to the top there lot of climbing I wonder how fatigued they're feeling yeah I mean often they go and have a session the day after a comp so yeah in a way they've only done 16 minutes of hard effort so you know yeah when well yeah it's not easy but he's and he's doing a face in interesting it was designed to be face out every time there's a face out move the athletes tend to not do that oh yeah yeah I don't know why you just made that look easy face in and easy going backward like a rose move this two fingers he's not even bothering him getting three in there oh maybe he should have though yeah yeah the noex holds I just don't really understand the see-through plastic I'm like this does not even hold it's like there just nothing someone put an interesting comment which I read saying how look cuz there was a lot of people who don't like it fair enough but people were saying look there are rock types where it's either super polished you know it's not like it doesn't exist in the real world but not like that not like that but we taking things to extremes it was an interesting point of view I thought oh he makes it work wow [Applause] easy oh wow I mean he he looked like he was almost in control on the blue hole and then kind of half halfhazard went again to the red one above it but the retter were describing as one quick sequence to do all three paddles yeah so he faces in again turns around the corner hits these pockets and look at this right hand if he manages to make it work oh slid down yes he pauses oh and he almost stops again yeah that makes sense all right he goes again feet up there's a nasty little Thumb in there by the way it's tiny hold looking good back to oh God back [Applause] to wow looks like a kid playing on the monkey bars oh different kind of method but similar idea but comp is done I think we are seeing a Japanese language thing in that the Japanese climbers are all trying similar types of beta on each problem I think so but the problem with face in is what he's struggling with which your shoulders kind of hyp extend and it pushes you out as he fa he's still doing it just pretty well yeah very controlled crimp that thumb as well oh just gentle yeah see he's getting more fingers in that pocket oh really smooth yeah he has got three you're right yeah and just stops and he's going to stop and he's stopping oh and he's putting the foot oh wow this is risky on the noex so he did slide but he held it just wow do you think they're really rooting for each other or do you think they're sort of secretly trying to burn each other off it's interesting the coaches will be very neutral you mean the coaches won't favor any well they have to yeah they can't favor any athletes I think generally they're they're pretty psyched on everyone else doing well especially this level they're all not really vying for places yeah look at this for stops wild wow on the notex just and it didn't pop the foot this time he stops again wow that is possibly the win there for S and the audience is going crazy yeah three tops in his own that's for sure yeah I mean he can't be beaten right yeah so he's that's the win so he just won and S I've never seen that yeah he's almost in genuinely that's the wow well serat with that gold ins sick he could go right faces out face out I really think there's a language thing going on this is so interesting I wonder if it's easier though or looks easier let's see well this still does not look very easy a similar move isn't it I mean and sort of like more gross in a way yeah the audience gets to watch you do like he's about to tear both his minisa in one terrible move I know I think they like like setting the face out because it's so audience friendly yeah I think it actually look more awkward but then it's that start isn't it I didn't not know by the way the plural of miniscus is minisi I just made it up I have no idea yeah I'm just I spent the last couple minutes thinking about I was like is it meniscuses though mincy I don't know that's what I was thinking about well it's cuz you rarely see a move where you tear both your knees in one move and we don't want to see it yeah I don't want to all right but he's doing it in a much more conventional method this way well that wasn't but the face in and the normal stemming does seem more normal yeah did I no allowed to talk to him yeah yeah just take or I thought he was asking for a brush but I think he was maybe just uh checking something with judges right squishes himself into the corner this is an example of a competitor looking like they just don't quite fit the box the same way yeah you're right but that could be Mobility that could be you know shoulder Mobility even I mean there's so many factors that go into this but yeah you see how he's struggling to get his feet established in the stem and better but again could be a size thing because both the competitors before him are slightly smaller and probably fit that box just a little bit better wor about M now wow the shoulder God that looks gross oh well he managed to explode out of it more Dust In The Light there as he jumps in once again it's a tough start when you have to jump into that position yeah and I guess he has to get both his feet on the opposing sides at least tag it because that's the official start oh close and he's trying to go face in also this this is going to be even harder if you're bigger there's a lot of M to fit in that space and yeah look at that my BL he just squeezes right in there yeah he's been doing his yoga he has isn't he not quite but not quite enough yeah it's I I like seeing the competitors try different things every [Music] time now he's just trying to figure out even to get both feet on so that he can start oh cool instead of the [Music] oh M here we go huge drop KN man that is a tough way to end on the palm again oh wow he caught that on the tip of his two fingers no first oh no oh no semi-finals 10:00 a.m. finals 6:00 p.m. am I doing those with you as well I hope so both haven't else yeah perfect perfect I'll be there I'm psyched yeah semi-finals is very different you know this is my first time com commentating I can't be any worse than right now 42 or he's trying to determine whether or not he injured a finger on that first on that last attempt how broken am I yeah yeah he's like can I try this again but it's the last problem so you got to leave it all on the table exactly all right oh he's wraps his like P oh man it's interesting that the first two Japanese competitors were able to establish control on this red and stop let's see maybe honestly I'd have to see the scores again it's too hard to keep track I've just got so into this I've so I get so fired up on the movement I'm just like what are they doing oh look he's taped up he obviously got injured on one of the last bombs well he's fored yeah can make P silver in four attempts there we go thank you Graphics guys oh wow are they listening to us is anyone listening to us I hope so and look he is doing the crazy back with them it is you're right you called it yeah I don't what do you call that claw back claw I call it in a bar ation just somebody saying it with authority triceps he looks good getting into that position honestly he looks great on that thumb he does he'll have to get his thumb routines here he looks really poised oh he's going backward it all looked amazing and a bit of a limp there on that knee yeah oh gosh though the rest of the problem is all campusing so if Hees it through the first move and he is getting is he allowed to talk to the judge yeah she's just checking he's all right doesn't need some medical attention in there but it's going to affect this move cuz look at the knee I mean does that still count as a start if he uh cuz he never got his leg over to the other side did he he still has to touch the other starting hold before he can officially so see he's trying to figure out how to okay so did that count I guess so no one's called him down so yeah I guess so oh wow so that middle one one minute left everyone's rooting for him I mean look fair play he's fighting I think he needs to call this that he's limping on that left leg on the on the knee okay that was good control though he has a good shot to catch the Zone if he can stick the move the way he's doing it right now oh that was close I'm glad you had I had that instant I didn't have kids there something wrong with me yeah right no it's like he he looks hurt yeah he's still pushing through what grip mean I respect the effort oh heend get this no he's been called down no he's the judge went crazy this I'm not sure this is going to look he is been called off the wall oh [Applause] no and this could and he's oh my gosh that just breaks Mur and he made sure of it that time didn't he and there goes the buzzers and he uh and this might be an appeal situation here he's not happy that's what I'm going to say oh look at that look at that that's why you're the professional wow look how nicely he uh I was about to say face in but almost sat on that foot then in the corner and with the Palm again yeah wow very well controlled the core required to stand up like that is insane yeah he's been he's been doing his cor oh wow what control he's got to flick that foot around the corner though wow and just stabs it perfectly oh wow and chalking up that just makes me that's like disrespectful to the other competitors but he has got his fingers in now a bit better but he's burnt a lot of energy doing that yeah didn't quite get in the pocket yeah won so many comps does he does he remember all the seconds and thirds he's got crazy brain for climbing okay okay yeah so he knows his stats I I think he' know he knows okay whether it really affects him who knows I'm sure it's not affecting his self-esteem no no God no very smooth he just gets his fingers right into that pocket and this time he's learned much better and he has three fingers too oh just didn't quite nailed it no Tex over the course of four minutes somebody can just Master some totally new oh look at this fcing out again yeah same uh oh he's bleeding they're not going to stop him no I mean it's that's yeah it's close it's they might not seen it either so he can just start yeah 1 minute for Yakov Sheba not comfortable that time it's a physical move he might just be getting tired of you see that he started and then he realized that he had an established control with all four and then reset and by the way there is an appeal on that Yan Luca um judging and he might have to climb again which is interesting so we'll see how that develops that's I don't know how I feel about that he doesn't have to but he has the option to yeah but I mean I guess if you're the oh oh he overshot it he was on the top and then he slid down the whole thing yeah though he is the one that top boulder one literally zero seconds yeah and he just only kicked it that time I'm not sure that's going to count [Applause] either no jakob's definitely done now well that was a brilliant B yob yeah well satat with a huge smile yeah he was I could believe emotional he looked moved the end of the I wonder why it meant so much to him cuz he's won before maybe because it was very hard he was impressed that he did it he's like wow

Channel: Climbing Rocks

Views: 134,780

Keywords: IFSC, IFSC Finals, IFSC Competition, Climbing World Cup, Climbing, Rock Climbing Competition, Rock Climbing, Sports Climbing, Climbing Rocks, World Cup, Sport Climbing, Competition Climbing, Climbers, IFSC Boulder Salt Lake City World Cup, Boulder Finals Salt Lake City 2024, Boulder Finals

Id: LYej7u7NRP0

Length: 47min 2sec (2822 seconds)

Published: Sun May 05 2024