Is this the world's most scary climb? - Rhapsody E11

this is Dave McLoud arguably the boldest climber in the world rivaling even people like Alex honold he's the only person to have free I mean no roped 8B plus but maybe his most impressive achievement is his Trad first Descent of Rap City E1 some call it the most dangerous climb in the [Music] world so this is the most dangerous rout in the world huh Rap City would you say so uh I'm not too sure it has some good gear it's E11 right it's E11 yeah you say that but I've seen you take a nasty fall though on this yeah well the oper so it's like 7c crack and then a section that takes it up to maybe 8B okay and then a font 8A Boulder at the top font 8A Boulder at the top wow and then how far are you above your last placements uh like nearly 10 m or so oh my God I can't believe you doing that it's crazy and looking up at it now it's so much higher than it looked like I I was just AB down it to to to rig a rope and the last couple of holds like I haven't been it's been 18 years tomorrow actually since I did that route so you haven't been on it since no not been near it and there are a couple hols where I was like wow that is actually quite a small hold yeah yeah so I'm going to go up the route uh on top rope and just check it out check out the moves and also check out the placements yeah just to see how spicy that really is I think when you try the moves you'll want to do the RO yeah yeah so you're just going to lower me and then I'm just going to go for it yeah TI the lead yeah what what grade would you give this if it was a sport route bolted I I think at Plus at plus yeah yeah we should um we should definitely try and get some Boulders done after after this cuz the bould here is also brilliant yeah cuz you guys I mean there's like AP Plus 8 so many hard Bowers there too and they're really good they're really Technical and interesting it's very slippery The Rock too here it's like glass so how many times have you climbed this part Dave oh maybe 30 or 40 at least yeah wow that's really slippery that yeah you heading away at left in left yeah well up first up to the wide pinch yeah and then cross under yeah yeah and then left again yeah then big rope over to the under cut yeah nice yeah nice good job yeah that 78 plus now it starts even that was tricky I really felt like I could have slipped off you know yeah slippery yeah very slippery so I don't know if you guys saw that but this part has bolts and uh this is really where rap city starts so uh from here you're only placing Trad gear so this is where it also gets mentally harder not only physically nice that's it then big reach to a finger lock oh this is a hand Jam I love it that's my favorite hand jamming that's not my specialty but this actually felt pretty good it feels so insecure these hand jams on oh oh my God those fist jams yes if I were to fall there on the lead attempt I would have to trust this but this one actually looks pretty good so I would trust this that one not so much okay take oh my God you guys should see this actually so the only thing holding you is this little piece of metal in the crack is Tiny and then from here you have to go all all the way to the top without placing anything you're going to take a massive fall so what Dave said is that when he took like the biggest fall he took he ended up on the slab here if you get a swing you're going to crash into the wall when falling and the impact is going to be pretty bad oh my God that's so scary man can't believe you went from here and all the way up to the top yeah and it's always the last move like actually grabbing the top of the crack yeah that's a red Point Croc so you fall from the highest possible place take that is slippery yep yeah and good to yeah so you can kind a rest there slightly yeah rest here yeah reach out right and then match the bad CRS the thing about resting on these FRS is that you're probably just going to get more scared I'll Takeo oh oh my God matching that is super hard did that ever pop for you that little the last placement there yeah once it it it didn't rip it just broke that the actual nut just snapped oh wow soend that's when you took the big Whi end up on the on the slab below the be ledge oh my God [Music] [Music] okay take yeahoo woo well done my goal is to do every single move but piecing it together is just incredibly hard these are so actually way harder than I thought these moves thought they'd be hard but not this hard oh my God that's such a big move from all the way from this yeah okay climbing on yeah okay oh my God that is such a hard move yeah now that's I think I would have to work this quite a while to figure this out this is very hard move right here okay climbing okay oh oh my God it's so slippery okay I'm just going to focus on the next part I'm just going to go through this okay climbing yep that's set then yeah that's the one and then swap feet up with the left hand little crimper yeah then deep drop yeah nice good oh my God yes yes nice one yeah it's uh that upper part I still like that one move is so freaking hard yeah it's very technical it was like it was like to Broken like chy two finger yeah that's right almost like a like a jam two finger that's cool so what do you think you're going to lead it there's no way I'm going to leave it it's not that far like the running should we uh do some bouldering instead maybe that sounds really good keep it a little bit safe I think you like the borders they're really good yeah they look hard though I got to say [Music] guess this is like typical Scottish uh weather right pretty much yeah YouTube it rain yeah rain features quite a lot in Scotch climbing yeah you can usually still do most things uh you just have to be a little bit adaptable so this is 7c right yeah what is it called The Shield The Shield yeah first claimed by Malcolm Smith Legend and in the '90s when was the last time you climbed out uh I don't even remember I think it was like one and a half years ago maybe really [Music] yeah W tough warm up on that yeah that is tough warm up oh my God so putting chalk on your shoe is not really good but when it's wet you don't really have much of an option but it makes the rubber less sticky actually actually yeah [Music] nice oh good effort go yeah I kind of wanted to bump again and also I think I grabbed here right not there I'm not sure I'm trying to think how I we're getting rain on here so could you go right hand to that or is that not possible you could go right hand to the the one the hold further right okay yeah is it still dry there's only one way to find out I guess yeah then right fo yeah and then bump that fo up Qui oh my God it's quite tricky that isn't in the right yeah yeah better Shir lives in the R nice come on there you go it's damp it's damp right yeah cuz that's what I feel with the under yeah okay yeah even the undercling I felt like it's but it's probably always slippery here yeah t-shirt off that's the beta that's the beta yeah now yeah yeah guess me a a great handicap yeah so you also prefer climbing shirtless you yeah time yeah what do you think is the reason for that being Scottish I suppose well it's the same with Norwegians I think yeah yeah nice go on oh my God as soon as I get my foot up it feels so bad this position yeah nice come on yeah nice there you go oh it's completely soing [Music] man I guess that's fine then yeah yeah maybe not the topic today good job cheers yeah yeah that was good so how many how many AP pluses have you done would you say Bowlers uh like 8 to 10 then 18 at or 18 18 practice of the wild yeah how old are you now 45 45 I think do you do you uh feel like the power is going down at all or no no I would say no I it's difficult to get stronger yeah um but I I would say it's like it's like a curve that's flattening off yeah but I don't think it's flat I think I am probably still slightly stronger than you've ever been yeah wow yeah that's crazy yeah and now Dave has a course that will be out on altitude and that is about climbing technique right yeah movement technique yeah yeah I think learning technique is just it's just pure observation attention to detail that's all there is to it really do you guys should check out the course on altitude climbing.com go on your foot come off there yeah yeah I think we can move on to the next one before they all get wet yeah it's quite rapidly getting wet so this one Dave how hard is this uh this is 7c 7c yeah from right right at the bottom there yeah yeah quite finger intentionally okay should be nice right your street with the body tension oh we'll see it looks it looks really hard you start here and here yep right foot like I am now up here up here I think yeah that's [Music] it good okay and guess right foot here right fo there yeah yeah it's quite Bunch isn't it it's weird to put the tow hook in like that yeah nice so good go on go on but that is yeah yeah it's very strange going for it I feel like yeah my feet are just way too low yeah this Bassel is like it's so smooth so the difference between good conditions and bad is massive so I think this problems like at least a great harder today you can see the dampness where it's been crimping yeah in good conditions it both feel easier I hope so it feels really hard right now at Le yeah it's paining I'm I'm paining it hard as well come on nice come on nice that's going to be impossible to hold it's way too much of a swing nice go on yeah yeah yeah that works that works go on go on nice come on yes that's a better yeah go on go on nice woo good oh my God it's crazy how easy that was when we just found the beta yeah yeah that's good to have you on the excellent like I would have never figured that out on my own that was like the top J I Hit with like two fingers like that yeah yeah just on the edge barely held it that's the Bon climbing though way like yeah technical see his hair are really hard though I got to say like the grading is crazy yeah nice come on man easy yes oo yeah nice go on man you got [Music] [Music] it oh ah I just missed it ah damn it wow I did have missed that yeah yeah yeah so [Music] easy come on D no wrapping my hands to shs on that you're just firing off that hold ni it's easy come on you got this come on nice easy man come on come on you got it yes nice one God hit that J really hard yeah good job excellent J for that it's pretty hard huh I don't know if I'm getting weaker but it might be one of the harder seven CS I've done so well yeah we can upgrade it well these conditions maybe I don't know how it would feel you guys should also check out Dave's course it's on altitude climbing.com it's on technique everything the whole Spectrum yeah and this is one of the best guys in the world when it comes to technique so definitely check that out and also check out his YouTube channel and uh I will see you next [Music] time Criminal

Channel: More Magnus

Views: 471,249

Keywords: Climbing, Climb, Trad, Trad Climbing, Dave MacLeod, yosemite, Bouldering, Alex Honnold, Adam Ondra, Magnus Midtbø, E11, Rhapsody

Id: 7CHoNGZYg4s

Length: 20min 25sec (1225 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 21 2024