Learn 100+ Climbing Techniques With Just 4 Movement Concepts

these four movement Concepts will help you learn more climbing technique than any technique video could ever show you why is that that is because movement Concepts will help you adapt the infinite possibilities for climbing movement to any situation you have in climbing we are presented with infinite number of movement possibilities so that's where understanding movement Concepts becomes more powerful than just understanding individual techniques it gives you the power to problem solve in any situation the first and one of the most important concepts for climbing is understanding direction of pull with this concept we're going to understand movements and techniques like layb backing being able to suck our feet in but also things like how to root read and understand a sequence of holds before you get on the wall to visualize and understand this concept I like to think in vectors and this is something you'll get in maths or in physics where we're looking at forces being applied in a certain direction so we're going to look at what is quite a bad hold on the wall and understand where the vectors the force should be placed on that hold to get the most out of it so I think we can agree this this is a pretty bad sloping hold and to get the most out of this body position is going to be really important so first off if we think about vectors is how do I want to apply Force to this hole to get the most out of it and generally the direction of pull is going to be perpendicular to the best position on this hold so it's going to be an arrow coming down in this position here that's the direction I want to be obviously I want my hips into the wall and I'll try and explain by putting a band over this hold and I want to pull in this direction Direction here trying to keep as close to the wall as possible to get friction on it if I bring that Vector away from the wall and I start to come out it very quickly comes off so I've got two concepts within one here the direction of pull means I want to be in perpendicular to the hold I want to be into the wall as possible so straight away with this one simple concept understanding direction of pull I know that I'm going to want my arm to be in line with that Vector coming away from it bringing my hips and my Center of gravity into the wall as much as possible to get the most out of that hold if I use the example of the band again but I think about bringing my body weight lower and I'm coming down here you'll see that I'm going to get slide over this profile here so if I bring my body weight low and across I'm going to be sliding down the hold and losing friction on it so we're going use this hold and Jen's going to demonstrate a layback position so layb backing is using exactly again the concept of direction of pull so we know that the hold is facing this where if we were to put a vector on that it would be going straight in Jen's arms are layb backing or leaning away from the hold she's found this point of balance that's going to be the most restful position for this we'll try and find an example through a climb where she's going to use that layback position based on the direction of pull so that's the concept of following as you can see with this massive pink hold here it's got a direction of pull which is pointing down here Jen's going to get into what is a comfortable layback position for her and there's a lot of techniques going on here but it's all directed by the hold and direction of pull if Jen lowers her hips down so her arms are not perpendicular you can see she's having to work harder for those hand holds and if Jen stands really high as well it's going to be harder again so she's trying to find that perpendicular to hold or in line of that direction of pull the best place place for the layback here we have two more holds which have a very obvious direction of pull so applying that concept I want my body to be over here and drawing away from them in the line of that there ctor but I would want a foot over here to have that point of balance and that is not an option I have on this climb the concept still works but now we need to find a way using our lower body or something else on the wall to be able to draw our body and our hips over here and this will be used with a heel hook a toe hook something that's going to pull our body into position so we can still use the concept of direction of pull as you can see here Jen is not able to lay back in this position but she's using this heel to pull her weight over here to make the profile of holdes appropriate for the direction of pull this concept still works on something as basic as a board so if we have a hold like this which is quite rounded it's actually from standing if we were to pull straight down it's quite a rubbish hold but if we can use our feet to suck our hips into the wall we get better purchase of the hold and this is because the direction of the pull can be best here the probably better example on the board is something like a big undercut if my body weight's down here and I'm trying to pull out from it I've got a really bad profile on the hold so I know the direction of pull that Vector is pointing up so I want my weight and I want the pull to be going in that direction this is why undercuts on the board you want to be able to build your feet high to get the best purchase on an [Music] [Applause] [Music] undercut [Music] there's also going to be many situations in climbing where you're not just going to be able to get your hips underneath the hold and this is an example of a Gaston where actually our hips are going to be over here but we can angle our elbow out so that our wrist comes in line with the hold even when our body's over here so that we're getting pressure again in the direction of pull and this also brings in another useful part of this concept is when you understand direction of pull can help you with your root reading because you'll start to understand where the holes are best situated if it should be a left hand or right hand that should go to the next [Music] hole this next concept is is about timing momentum from your hips with this concept you're going to learn how to Pogo Dyno and dead point and pretty much any subtle movement which uses momentum and perhaps really important for newer climbers is you're going to learn how to not waste energy by locking off with your arms when a little bit of momentum would get you that distance without the strength needed we're going to start on something really easy to look at the concept of using momentum from the hips so in this example Jen if you jump on this for me and just reach up to this hold but without using any moment momentum just locking off and reaching you can see that the arms working relatively hard to make that move if Jen comes back down and does it by using momentum through our hips we're going to try and reach it almost effortlessly and so this become a lot more efficient of movement we're going to look at a Dyno to explain why the momentum should come from the hips when this movement gets much bigger and much more powerful so we're going to look at this example here where Jen's going from this blue hold up to that white hold there obviously there's not even an option to just lock it off we need to make a really Dynamic move to get our body all the way up to that hold but we said there's two parts of this concept is one timing momentum from your hips and two why are we choosing to time from the hips and not elsewhere in our body so the first concept is that we're timing momentum from the hips what are we timing we're trying to go for the Apex of trajectory this is sometimes in climbing called the dead Point essentially what we're looking at here is where an object goes up into the air at that point it reaches a peak and before it falls it's essentially a moment of weightlessness and this is the best time to be able to hit a hold because we weigh nothing we have time to contract and hit a hold so we're trying to time our momentum at our hips to reach that hold the Apex of trajectory or the dead point is what we're looking for the second thing we said is why the hips now the reason we want to time the momentum from my hips is because that's generally the closest part of our body we can think about coordinating which is close to the center of our mass now when we think about making a dyo powerful we need a lot of force behind it and to create more Force we're thinking in terms of physics mass time acceleration equals force we want to move our Center of mass that's why we're thinking of moving our hips so if we move our hips we're going to be moving most powerfully than if we think about moving with our hands or moving with our feet the other benefit of that is not only are we going to make our D more powerful by moving our Center of mass when we think about moving our hips we also think about moving our hips towards the wall or into the wall a movement error we common get with Dynamic movement is our hips coming out away from the wall and that's because we're focused too much on our hands landing on the hold but if our hips are close to the wall then our hands as a secondary benefit are closer to the wall as well if we understand the concept of timing momentum from our hips you'll be better executing things like a pogo technique now a lot of the errors you see with a pogo technique is people try and move that their foot towards the hold but actually we want to time with our hips so when you Pogo the foot should connect to the hip and then draw the hip towards the place you want it to be for your hand to move to the next hold the next concept we're going to cover is anticipating the end position of a move so this actually plays into kind of every movement in climbing because obviously we're moving from one hole to the next but where we're going to look at this particular Concept in this video is when it comes to foot placement so there's loads of foot techniques but the very basic Bic ones are Inside Edge outside edge and just pointing on the toe and we're going to get into how this is useful for foot swaps as well in a minute so here is a climb where I know I'm going to start over here I'm going to end over here so I've got two very different body positions I start low down here and I'm going to end up high over there and a lot of the movement is going to happen on this footo hold down here so where I place my foot to begin with needs to allow my body position to be in a completely different place later on so if I'm going to anticipate movement on this foothold I'm probably going to start somewhere which looks like an Inside Edge because my hips will be over here but I need to transition something that's probably either more of a toe Point down or an outside edge so that my hips can face over [Music] here this pink clim here is an example of a boulder that has a pretty straightforward foot sequence and this illustrates that you don't need to over complicate lots of different foot edging techniques it's just about anticipating what's going to happen next with this one we can just use pretty much the same foot movement for every move based on where we think we're going to end up the common situations in which you're going to have to anticipate changing your foot movement is pivoting on a foot hold things like Drop knees heel Hooks and especially foot swap when we want to bring the other foot into the foothold later on so Jen picked out this black one as a great example of where heel placement needs to anticipate where you're going to end up so we start over here but we're moving over there and we're rocking over a heel here our body is going to end up over here and as you can see this hole drops off quickly if we place our heel over here it's great for starting on this position because we can pull into it and stand this hold but when we end up over there it will slide off and we'll lose that friction if it's placed too far down so you want to find The Sweet Spot which works starting but also finishing the move so foot swaps is a great example of anticipating what you're going to do next where you're going to end up and if you need to swap feet a really simple approach is just don't be greedy with it there's loads of ways to swap feet but make room for the foot coming in or make sure that you can orientate your foot or pivot so that you create space after you've made the move this fourth concept is about establishing or maintaining a triangle base where possible and this is also sometimes called keeping three points of contact on the wall with this concept you will learn to move your feet early you'll be able to apply pressure into the wall where there are no footholds available and you also learn to use flagging to create more stability for your upper body if you do mostly indoor climbing you might find this concept doesn't appear at first as important because a lot of root setting often gives you footholds exactly where you want them I think good root setting or a lot of outdoor climbing forces you to find new options when only one good foot is given so in the case where you only have one good foot and not a second foot hold but you need to make a move or find a stable position what do you do with that other leg which hasn't got footh hold the answer of course is to set a triangle base and this is where we're going to try and place foot pressure into the wall essentially where we think a foothold should go for us to feel stable so on this purple climb we've got a perfect example of only having one footh hold per move for the first part of this climb to be able to make the moves up we're going to want to establish that triangle base so that we have stability in our upper body to make the movements we've only got one foot on but what the other foot is doing is as important as the foot that has a footh hold it wants to push into the wall applying foot pressure this is a smear of course because there's no footo hold so the similar principles apply that you want to drop the heel get good friction against the wall with the rubber of your shoe but you're going to push with that foot towards the next foothold if that foot's lazy the one that doesn't have a footh hold it's going to make it so much harder to move when it comes to the principle of the triangle base you want to be relatively intuitive with where that flagging leg that foot pressure which doesn't have a foot hold where that goes so in the case of working on this pink and just making a move from the start hold up to here we have a foot directly below it so we need to make the decision if we're going to flag out to the left hand side or out to the right hand side here I'm going to choose what I would choose to flag out to the left hand side cuz that foot foot is actually the foot which is going to help me move in the direction towards this hold if I was to do it on the other side what I would have is what we call a barn door where we swing open and away from the hold away from the direction we want to go in one of the benefits about being able to put pressure into the wall where you don't have a foothold is you get to decide exactly where it goes so although it takes some intuition to know where it should go that foot placement is going to be unique to you particularly when it comes to leg length and height so where I put my foot is going to be different to where Jen puts her foot and to add to this concept we want that foot to be at the correct height so we could have it really high up we could have it really low down but what we find is that if it's too low down we won't reach the hold and if it's too high it pushes our hips away from the wall so it's about finding that sweet spot where the foot's going to be in a straight line towards the hold once we've made the move again this goes back to one of our previous Concepts which was anticipating our end position so we're going to start on something that's super easy to illustrate how of course when you're using a triangle base and you're trying to keep that stable support you're obviously moving so you have to keep moving the base as well and what you'll tend to see people do which goes back to that idea of B dooring is they'll be moving their hands and then the feet movements will be an after for and so they'll be moving their feet quickly to try and stop that swing so this is an example if Jen jumps on and you just do a number of hand moves all the way up to here but without moving your feet you'll find that what happens is when her hands reach over here her hands have gone outside of that base her hands have gone over to the right hand side so what we want to do is we want to move that base before we'll move it early so that by the time our hands are here it's still within our base so if gender is the same thing and we'll just move hand hold move the feet so this this is just again goes back to anticipating where you're going to end up it comes a little bit into direction of pull and they're not just jugs all these Concepts start to bring in together when we're thinking of the triangle base concept it's going to introduce lots of movements like flagging and we've shown lots of outside flagging positions where you're using that foot to push against the wall but you can also use an inside flag or a back flag which basically takes your leg across the outside of your body or of course the inside of your body and that again introduces a triangle base without needing to foot swap but you can think outside of the box of this one a really common move in mod root setting is like a palm roll over a move or even just grabbing hold and using a palm to stabilize against the wall while you move your feet that Palm into the wall or on a hold is just again creating that third point of contact while you're moving your foot so you can use this triangle base in many different situations I'm a firm believer in learning Concepts over learning individual techniques myself as a climber I've never had any formal coaching when it comes to movement but I think if you understand Concepts you will problem solve and learn the techniques for the situations which you are presented with as a climber if you're already quite a confident climber and you want to take your climbing to the next level and introduce more of a physical training aspect to it as well then check out our ltis training plans or our performance coaching plans I'll leave a link in the description below if you want to check those out thank you for watching we'll see you next [Music] time he

Channel: Lattice Training

Views: 146,268

Keywords: climbing, training, climbing training, lattice training, climbing technique, climbing movement, learn techniques, heel hooks, flagging, foot swaps, foot techniques, hip efficiency

Id: a8DTOztiuLM

Length: 17min 32sec (1052 seconds)

Published: Mon Mar 11 2024