Lead Finals | Wujiang | Womens | 2024 | IFSC World Cup

we'll have a little look at our route and it does wind its way up the wall taking up a lot of space on this big structure not a huge head wall on this wall yeah I mean the whole wall is not that huge it's not that tall that's why we have to go left right for semi and finals to get in all the moves yeah it starts off down low and if you are new to sport climbing well you start at the bottom you climb to the top you click all the quick draws on the way and we start off with a pumpy section as you can see prob by a no foot section but as we mentioned uh the women can often find feet where feet are impossible from then on powerful compression and a big press up over the lip of that head W to some nasty pinches a final press move as you can see and then the top which isn't a huge jug but it should be pretty holdable once they get there all right well Mia cample has the honor of being out first here tonight she's looking very loose very relaxed as she stands there yeah she didn't have the best qualities so maybe this just took away some pressure from her to just climb better and maybe get everything out of this Camp yeah that's a really good point actually I think when an athlete maybe struggles initially they can then uh sort of just put all those nerves behind them right well if you're just joining us my name is Matt groom and with mat poy here in the commentary box from Team Austria we're watching the women's parts of the lead finals and Mia krle actually already chalking up down low maybe a trickier start than we thought here yeah it's already a few moves until the second quick T season now this weird chimney at the start yeah five is her score now every hold is worth a point and if you move towards the next one change your center of mass and your hands towards the next one with intent you get that plus there are quick draws hanging on the wall from our new sponsor trango gear trango climbing and uh the athletes have to clip all of those quick draws in order as they climb the routs now I ched to the sets about this big hold um it is good you could shake out there and rest but of course very low down they might not want to do that yeah exactly like I don't think she's pumped at hold 11 so she will try to get moving try to be efficient and later on when she finds another rest point she will use it I'm sure I always think it's a bit cruel when a set up put a rest in down low like if it was me I'd be milking it but there's a time limit isn't there and although we haven't got clock on screen uh we will let you know but six minutes is how long the athletes have to do that so MIA up with the left pinch straight away into some crimps here there are surprisingly many crimps in this comp it's for World Cup there are a lot of crims on the roots yeah and the crowd then sort of just had a bit of a shout cuz she did momentarily lose her feet there right crosses through and from crimps to slopers and then back to crimps it's a bit hard to see because the light so bright but there are some screw on on the upper one which she's holding now yeah exactly yeah there are some crimps on that on those big red tuna style holds all right now this is the down climb now I can't wait to see if she works out a feet method here she's already stuck some feet in gets a tow hook around the corner drops in and yeah now you do have to commit does yeah yeah I there's not a lot of options you got going on rope management because you could get tangled up in this section you have to take care because if you want to move fast you can't move around the Rope right here up into the pinch here thumb I think there was a jib it's hard to see but certainly to notex where she is now up to what looks like a sort of intermediate maybe a foot almost yeah I don't think it was supposed to be a hold no I don't think so either but she's used it like one and now it's ched up so maybe we'll see more girls do the same yeah that's a good point we don't clean the holdes in between on this competition so uh yeah gives a little clue perhaps to those coming after or maybe a red herring after that Mia was 19th in the boulder round earlier on in this week flicks her feet around and squeezing with her legs oh but drops the big sloper looks like a really powerful moves and if you're already a bit tired it's really hard to get the momentum going next up will be ering with there she is yeah just really trying to come onto this scene she had has had dabble in 2023 but didn't get anywhere near as good as she's climbing right now so a real breakthrough year for her yeah talked to her yesterday evening and she looked so surprised like she couldn't believe it herself yeah she is all right so twisting around goes up with the right hand now and we saw Mia just take a little bit of a moment down here to chalk up Ain is straight through mov those hands and I do Wonder last year there was an issue with the heat in the arena because of how many people are in there and it just changed the route for the Setters I wonder if that's happened again but oh she's struggling a bit now but yeah maybe they have already thought about it this year because also in qualis and semis it wasn't really Co cool in the like the warm up area was cool it was okay there but in the climbing Arena it was really warm yeah and certainly when I walk CU I've been up in the commentary box for a couple of hours walk downstairs and I was surprised by how hot it was in there so I think things have changed and aarin isn't looking 100% comfortable yet she's is using a bit of a rest here and then crimps to come and yeah she's really milking these resting moments at the moment rotates through flicks that right heel up and reaches around her leg to pull up the Rope she doesn't look too comfortable right now I think maybe it's the nerves yeah I think you're right I mean I'm hoping that when she sort of hits these hard moves it might kick you out of that because sometimes we see when it's certainly when it's easy you've got a lot of time to think about how nervous you might be all right out into the crimpy cple reaches up to the high black hold on the edge of the volume and a nice little tow hook with the right foot yeah like looks like she found a bit of flow yeah I think she's kind of more locked in now so she's searches for that heel hook I'm expecting her to enjoy this next section this more physical part of the route cuz you know she is such a good boulderer yeah it's looks like that Boulder is section and she could be liking it yeah let's find out well she makes a match here adjusting those fingers goes out with a shoulder move crosses through with the left hand and then drags the Rope up so here we go down Climb Time which is so weird to say on a lead route you meant to be going up but the Setters are playing around here a little bit and she's eyeing up this Nick's Next Big Pidge and checking out the clock we have got a clock now on screen so that's good so three minutes left actually taking quite some time to get to this point yeah you're right especially considering that this route is quite short half the time yeah yeah I think she was quite surprised about that she wants a little bit of heal toe cam in there can't get it doesn't want to spend too much time faffing with feet here especially the right hand hold it's quite bad you want to get down to the better one yeah just catches it hey oh she has the Rope behind her neck yeah that's that rope management we chatted about you got to be careful gets a tow hook in in order to try to release that left hand she's confident on that toe absolutely I don't think I would be right foot flat on the wall remember no feet hits the crimp with the left foot adjusts those feet in order to get the rope in the right Plex for the next move and like we said maybe using that hand hole but doesn't like the look of it does she a she using it oh I think it might might be messing her up there she kind of wants to bump all the way through it hopefully we can get a shot of that just to show how there is a jib down there as well yeah that foothold I don't think it's great and yeah she goes for the big move she was just really determined and then you can do it all right good work here from Aaron MCN but now she looks really tired just took a lot out of here her this I think you're right yeah it did she really started to burn out there right sloper time as well so your arms are going to be burning suddenly got do big wide moves she could be in trouble here but RS you can see her reflection in the big volumes wow and then hooks the heal in she's got another quick draw yeah the reflection is it must be so strange to see yourself staring back is actually yes you can see the crowd as well oh that's got to be odd wouldn't make for great photos it would be wouldn't it there's a photographer out there with a long lens somewhere don't worry we got you covered on that one double heel hooks good flexibility from Ain this hole doesn't look good looks awful doesn't it but she's nice and low on it you know she's not trying to go too high yeah and with the double heels and look how bad those holds are oh she's fighting maybe wants a toe above her head yeah there it is or heel above her head no she goes for the toe oh this is going to be a big unwind if she can manage this only 39 seconds to go as well she's near the head W but I don't think it's going to be enough time to top the route out yeah but she already so tired maybe she just timed it follow how long she could go yeah she's trying to go for the tow hook but needs a lot of core that kind of a move six minutes of climbing this is quite a hard move to do all right sh so comes on there was this one sequence if he did it right maybe it wasn't that hard but a lot of us me included didn't get it right first time and then it's so steep you just get tired too quickly and you're off the wall yeah it was a real hard it was heartbreaking watching some people on that section all right well here we go third athlete out on the wall 6 minutes on the clock and a good high point from Eric mice who is currently in the lead up to the slopers cruising at the moment as we hope for low down on the route but you never long yeah I'll never forget though what in inbrook a couple of years ago and it was really warm and loads of women fell in the first couple of moves yeah there was sun in the wall even yeah it was after that I've always i' got a bit of like PTSD from it and now I can't like relax at the bottom of the roots anymore I should sue Su ensbrook shono moves her feet over on the wall standing nice and flat on that she reaches up towards the crimps positive stuff she's not hesitating I think she has one of the best climbing starts on the whole circuit she's so smooth and flowy never looks stressed it's really a pleasure watching her yeah climbing Styles is interesting isn't it because is it something you ever think about as an athlete or is it just kind of it is part of whatever you are or do you try to emulate somebody else I think maybe there are some aspects you would like to change or improve but it's really hard to change something like Pace because usually it's easiest for you to go in the pace you would naturally go in mhm so going faster going slower could just be more pumpy for you so it you have to work on it because maybe you are too slow and you don't make it in six minutes but it up to some point it's like you used to do it yeah that's interesting you say that because we've seen some over the years like you know I'm thinking Jan Kim and anak Boven perhaps you had to sort of ramp up the speed and struggled with it so yeah it's it's difficult one to do we can just about see these crimps here it is a bit blown out but now it's a better shot to show them they're positive but you don't want to hang around too long gets a heal in looks good yeah she isn't about 40ish seconds quicker than aarin was at this point too and almost no campusing yeah yeah good point she's found feet on the flat of the wall looks kind of comfortable staying there as well well now get to cheeky healing but has to drop it yeah it's not quite right and that's the thing when you try to find feet with their arm feet is you can sort of you know waste energy and time by trying to make a sequence up yeah definitely like getting your feet above your head in this steepness is not easy and if it's for nothing you've wasted your energy yeah agreed well she goes up with the left hand cuz that oh this is tricky claws her way up using the intermediate yeah there wasn't much chalk on there till M cample touched it and then everyone is having a go at touching it at least try to use it yeah yeah blocked crimp with the right hand 2 minutes 46 on the clock yeah Eric M up at 39 sheno down at 33 currently easily does it h hits these slopers gets the heal in and this is where we saw Aaron start to burn out the difference in time is crazy between the two yeah she's just moving along steadily just Wiggles that heel in a bit deeper on that large side pull slopey thing and now this is the bump bump with the left hand coming up and she'll know there's a physical section here she'll want a rest her eyes are just like you could see it mapping out where she's going to go next bit of a toe scrub on the right now now makes the bump got to do a hard cross through here toe high above her head as she reaches releasing this toe will be hard yeah tell us why that's hard yeah it's like at some one moment the whole swing from your feet com comes and you have to hold it with your hand oh swings her way down Aaron tried to do a tow hook sheno isn't doing that but she's approaching the head wall now gets the pinch and there's another crimpy section to come as well she is moved up into the top spot 42 and she still looks quite relaxed does doesn't she coming up to one minute should be enough time to get through it but there's a big press coming up here off this left ball and the head wall usually climbs really slowly so you have to count in sometime oh she falls going left just seemed to get pumped out of nowhere suddenly right there is natsuki Tanny but she finds her Solutions she gets feed where you wouldn't think you could get him up yeah absolutely right let's see what she can do then I mean there's not very many poppy sequences in here so she might enjoy this route oh but immediately lost a foot there it's a weird sort of Chimney this Bond bit yeah you always hate the root Setters for that because you know it's probably not going to be hard it's the start but they just want to make you nervous and get you out of a flow a bit yeah i' imagine that relationship between athlete and Setter is quite tricky oh she got a bit short rope there as she comes up just a bit of a drag I think it was because the Rope was around her foot maybe she blocked it herself yeah that's a good point all right crosses through into a big pinch with the right hand yeah you're right I think it was that cuz she's much cleaner now all right underneath Stands Tall she can see her own face it's so strange isn't it she got an amazing knee bar in the semi-final route where hardly anyone could do it I think she was the only one to really get it in just to below the head wall there a very small Gap she cuts loose matches the smallest of crims with that right hand yeah with more and more big volumes in The Roots you really have to look out for those nebas maybe the Setters didn't even see them but you can get a in and if it's a good one and you can take your hands off that's like a huge Advantage yeah I agreed and it's You Know It's tricky to try to spot them all but yeah I know that root sets in the past had a nightmare with heels for example as we're watching one now like they were just amazed of how flexible it is I think they've kind of worked that out by now but the knee bar thing seems to replace the heels in terms of athletes breaking the beta physical section to come here for natsuki Tanny as she got some beans in the tank tries to find a tow hook gets a heal in instead yeah also with this roots not going up but going from left to right right to left you always have a heal hook because you can always put your foot to your hand and if the sets don't give give you any footh holds below that's also what you have to do and it climbs differently from going straight up yeah agreed it's uh yeah she's really really doing well here left foot pressing into one of those big volumes trying to work this sequence out we know how unique she finds sequences let's see if she's got something special in store for us here looks to the right flicks underneath drops that toe around the corner that's clever cuz it must be quite blind that toe maybe she can just about see it and she can certainly feel it with a toe rubber there one of those wild high heels like she tried to get your her feet on as quickly as possible again didn't look comfortable with the campusing no she didn't did she but like uh who was it I think I think Aaron maybe had that kind of tow hook but she moves very quickly through yeah she's like not hesitating a lot it looks really good I'm fascinated to see how she does this bit I'm sure she's going to use the foothold I think she could too she loves those nasty little cribs yeah look at that she's not even using the other hold but this could get into trouble cuz she's low on that pinch and yeah she nearly lost it yeah she doesn't have the screw on now she does have it I mean that's exactly what we were talking about and she's still in a bit of trouble gets a knee Scrub but now she should be okay knee bells are actually the reason you should always wear shorts for competition Roots because it sticks so much better if you have the bare skin on the volumes oh God okay I thought you were going to say the opposite you should have trousers on so no no you say you sacrific skin for grip always that's fair enough Suki tan after that bit of a moment as she uh did some unique beat it through that is looking good again but a minute 50 is not a lot of time especially because the next section like Jun took a lot of time to get through it yeah you are right and a minute 40 on the clock so third place for her at the moment provisional Podium but big names to come can't afford to rest it too long she had to look at the clock she knows the time up she goes with the left hand bumping it through trying to get as much of your palm onto the hold as possible it that's one screw on which she has with her right hand now moved off it now this is a big old stretch for her but that heel looks comfortable and now she needs to find this cross through has another look at the clock and immediately yeah she's got to motor here 56 seconds still in third and to remind people about come she doesn't know the score she has to get to so she won't be aware that she's not there yet but she will know that she needs to get further in order to beat some of the bigger names coming up drags the foot down and holds the swing and gets a immediately gets her feet back up again what is that move oh no it doesn't quite work for her I just I don't like it's outrageous that's all I can say about to put a heel above your head like that I mean she's almost upside down yeah you're always like lying horizontally in the wall not next athlete out is that's Sumi Oda now 16 years old World Cup finals it's crazy it's her first World Cup but you know when they're 16 they've got such a long career ahead of them it must be strange to see it coming through yeah but there are some that are good for one or two years and you don't see them again so it's more as wait and see if they're still around in three or four years yeah that's it isn't it I mean you come in at 16 you might not be a serat andrao or someone you know you can drop in and out especially with a Japanese team where you know they've got so many athletes to pick from yeah the internal qualif um yeah selection for the Japanese is so hard they have like this one comp in the beginning of the year and if you don't do well you might be out for the whole season yeah that's a lot of pressure isn't it let's see if she takes it all in her stride that's see the odor moving through be a PB whatever happens here so maybe want to poke the selectors with say oi I've done pretty well right reaches up into the slope with the right hand moving well at the moment make make this clip before going left those long draws are sometimes not that easy to clip you have to like catch them from the air and get the rope in swinging around yeah cuz they put in like that to try to prevent rope drag and especially with a route winding like this but you're right it's it's difficult these are quite stiff they seem are they as stiff as they look yes they are four long draws they're really nice to clip okay they wor yeah sometimes they hang around and blow in the wind which is never what you want to see it's dramatic for our point of view but for you I would have been a nightmare when it's swinging around like that but they also have the advantage that you can pick up the draw and put them into the road like the other ra round can move the draw around yes you're not allowed to wait the quick draws or pull on them but as you say you can sort of adjust it you can put it over your leg you can hold on to them but not pulling them so Oda doing well through the initial stages easy as we'd expect but this is where things ramp up on this route not much feet to be had and some pretty bad slopy holds out there solid with her feet at the moment rocking up on that right foot and I thought she was climbing quite slow but actually it's not too bad at 355 but depends on how much she chooses to rest later on yeah I think she needs to step it up just a little bit here in terms of pace cuz the longest rest usually was with the big black volumes up high and that's Yet to Come yeah three 30 yeah Aaron was around about 3 minutes when she started dropping down and she was running out of time so and that's what you were talking about that swing hard to grab it locks in a toe let's see how she's read this bumps the hand out drills that right foot in also gets the heel hook in it always makes my knees scream that angle oh she goes round into a tow hook interesting so we some seem some resting with a high left tow hook which she's got almost like a jam in there maybe it is flat on the wall it's hard to see yeah I'm not sure I'm not sure she's getting anything pressing against it but definitely no campusing from her no true it it made your feet on all the time yeah you'd see that and just be like well use your feet you know you'd never expect it that's good footwork from her but she uses the foot hold there a hand hold oh is horrible and yeah and she's struggling to pull on that thing this is where experience might counts you know only 16 she is rethinking oritan just holded yes well she kind of did there oh she dealt with that first real test well and hits the jib first time of asking on the pinch interesting she's using her feet in a brilliant way here yeah that's also with this going left and right once you change directions you again have feet below you from where you came from yeah it's hard to eliminate isn't it everything all right thuggy section coming up see if she's got some power as well as that extreme crimp strength it's a tow hook leans back on it bumps right no similar to Mia krle just didn't have the range on that all right Jil is out and seeing her these last two comps she's really a contender to make it to Paris yeah she is I mean I think some people were surprised she didn't make it the Asian qualify in Jakarta but uh yeah she's got her eyes set on that oqs so fingers crossed for her and you heard the crowd respond to her as well they'll be very excited to have her climbing yes like for her and Yong in qual and sem really cheered for their athletes yeah a home crowd Advantage is fair enough I think you got to take all you can because usually the Chinese athletes are traveling all over the world so they get to sleep near their own beds anyway yes Jil cruising at the moment looking very comfortable down low not pausing for a moment bring those feet through straight up to the right crimp I say crimp it's pretty rounded I think the upper one is bit more incor maybe that's why she chose to not use the lower one at all yeah she'd obviously planned that I think she went straight with no hesitation on it all right reaches up into the corner with that black crimp WRA those fingers around out again into sort of a gastony style crimp good time as well she's really fast yeah she hasn't really rested anywhere no never really a pause here o launch is right no hesitation again she looks really comfortable it's one of the best times I've seen her climb at the moment I don't want to I'm touching some wood here in the commentary box I don't want to blow it for her but it is she's looking good at the moment careful of that rope yeah gets rid of it she's just motoring through not stopping just steadily moving along well I think it's safe to say j j is on another level compared to everyone else we've seen so far up she goes again again no pause and that straight arms is something that every climbing instructor I've ever had has told me about but it's so hard to emulate you know but resting like that it it does help in terms of uh resting between moves right yeah also if the rest isn't that good just getting fully extended and release yourself into the position gets so much more out of it great pinch power as well she made that boost up did what everyone's done and tickled that foothold and then thought better of it a little palm in order to get nice intermediate 3 minutes 27 on the clock most were still on that bottom sequence by this part now she's struggling a bit more yeah for the first time really oh double bump she sees her face reflected back at her yeah you're right something suddenly changed there didn't it she had to try hard I think for the first time see if she can compose herself and get through the next section all right we should take a minute second to rest here she's got plenty of time 3 minutes as she approaches the headwall 43 is the high point she's on 36 so just outside of the podium at the moment and the crowd has expected a tense in the background they got their fingers crossed bumps the heel over 38 she's nearing the podium I think the crowd are going to scream when she gets there oh just the edge of a reach in order to make that clip that clip was like a move almost yeah it's maybe it wasn't the best position to clip from but it's it's out of your way now you've done it now you can climb on yeah agreed it's in forget about it move on yeah we're starting to slowly these little moments are creeping into her game here she looks so confident and she's almost dropping back down to rest I think she's not sure what to do with her feet for this next move I think she wants to go all the way left you know no she doesn't right so she holds that side p and matches it [Applause] flicks the legs over and she'll try to get some kind of a heel in or something around the back of that volume there it is that back heel jammed between the wall and the sloper now that's the move for junfel the next one this is a big oh the foothold come on yeah it goes out but that's a really far move that's powerful L rero will come out for Italy but yeah lead is where she's most comfortable I think especially at the moment and for those of you who always want to know I did finally ask her about her shoes because it always amazes me she wraps her laces around underneath and she told me that it just goes back to almost Superstition what she used to do um but also she just goes through a lot of shoes and she doesn't like to cut the laces so she just wraps them underneath uh and she seems quite surprised cuz I'm always surprised that she doesn't sort of roll off it or step on it in the wrong place but she told me it's not a problem so there we go Mr res solved steps up tall looking good at the moment hits the slopers had a good qual round good semi-finals qualified in second place for this finals so that appeal was for yeah shano as we know they want her to have 43 plus to her score so that's what's being appealed so I want to upgrade a score so that would mean 44 is the little chip that only lilu shilu used and they might not want to give her the plus because she mve to hold 45 from hold 43 okay it's good to know thank you so high heel for L yeah you see that lace shot there it also kind of pulls the shoe in I guess wraps it around her foot a bit more I've got to stop talking about shoes I love talking about shoes sure no one else at cares but I do she's using the foothold here now she switched yeah now she changed she loves a nasty crimp as that lady there she can hold on to anything outrageous at it it is a skill to have though if you canly turn foot holds into hand holds you know hey it's going to help she's starting to snatch a little bit but this is kind of her style as well she's not the smoothest on the wall sometimes she just keeps on going and you should you see her trying to be quite fast in the lower section because she can also rest for a long time so she's trying to save time for later probably yeah but this is a powerful move really rep with your hand her hand around the volume yeah I guess she had like a thumb on on the jit perhaps it was yeah interesting hand position big move out towards the pinch now swings those feet here we go will she make some feet where no feet should be she gets the heal as well tow around hits the crimp locks it off oh and we've seen that not work and it doesn't really work for Lara but she has to bump under as well that's what I meant by the time J La was like two clips higher at this point almost used up half the time already yeah so healing big move out towards that pinch now now will she use this footo hold imagine she will and probably be able to use it as well yeah I think so too yeah look she's lock a wow there's going to be some fingernails in action there shakes out that left hand almost look surprised at how bad it was yes Lara it's a foothold little micro Shake towards the block crimp holds that well swings defeat once more now gets the footo hold but this was the moment we saw Jay La start to hesitate this move will be hard for her it's really far it's a big one and she is having to readjust oh Mia cample fell here as well is lar going to she's got to heal this is a risky moment for her she's not comfortable she's not set it's going to have to be a big one she's getting encourag so long on this position already oh no it was never quite there was it I think she just took too long to find a position couldn't find one and then she was too tired okay so Yan gambra is out next and this year she just seems calm I mean she's qualified for the Olympics already that's done and what better to boost your confidence than completely crushing a bouldering World Cup and Topping every lead route so far yeah it's not a bad way to start is it really you know fair enough all right Yan let's see what you can do there some hard sequences to come from her of course so into this chimney section not really much for the feet just got to trust them Works her way around and up she comes last athlete to make or try to make an impact on the podium so we have been told that shano has been awarded the 43 plus at the moment so that score has been given a good read by you you saw that coming from a way back so in terms of the leaderboard then J L is out in front with 44 Plus or we can see it now down the left sheno 43 plus now and Nuki tan 40 so we know shono and jilo are guaranteed medals at this stage it's just whether Yan can make an impact on the Podium I would be surprised if she didn't agreed but still a long way to go still a very long way to go and look with roots is hard as well nothing is a given you know one little hesitation one mistake one root reading error and it's gone for yya yeah that's the thing with the one try and Lead could be a foot slip or something you're off s quickly well that move I mean we've seen a flick like that so many times and yet it's not you know it's a risky way of doing that move but maybe the easiest just doing it yes yeah yeah 4 minutes 15 and Yan taking a time through this section she'll know there's a thuggy bit to come out into the pinches swings the feet around will she turn that heel like everyone else she's certainly adjusting the hands she might campus yes she does doesn't well well almost campus but certainly she didn't have that high that downturned heal we've seen some use yeah just kept her feet on the wall and almost campus yeah kind of a halfway house but she's moving quickly 347 goes for the Big Boost ignoring the foothold and breathing quite hard at the moment so certainly not easy for her flick of the hand gets that blocked crimp well I would imagine this section suits her pretty well yeah she enjoy kind of just flinging her way around upgrades the hands leaning back and shaking out with 3 minutes 10 on the clock should be enough time to top yeah look at that left uh foot position so she's got the foot pressed against the wall heal in there we go nice shot of it tow rubber in just choosing not to put a right heel in like the others did they had a double heel on the big black ones yeah good spot so slightly different beta here from yanet no it's there looking very comfortable in that position does the double bump looks like she wanted to cross in straight away but she's going to put the toe in ooh not super comfortable on that one had to readjust held it with the left hand instead she hasn't clipped yet now she's doing it like from in between a move where two other girls fell she just clipped good stuff from yya so far nearing the head wall now plenty of time two minutes on the clock she comes up into third position pushes natsuki Tani outside of the podium she still looks like she's got some Power To Give I think she's got something but this is a huge move oh up she goes skips intermediate just moves on and the crowd enjoy that one and she's very close and now is in the top spot with 45 so it's going to be two gold medals in a couple of days for Yan G but she won't know it yet she'll check the clock with a minute 40 to go and look it's Yan she wants to top this thing out it would be great Four Tops all rots oh be almost a perfect week wouldn't it definitely has a little look down this is a big press up into this there's only really two moves to go it's a long way though she's just got fingertips has to engage the shoulders twists mates that match and with a minute 16 to go yanu is one move away easy out she's going to top it out she's going to win this competition and once again yanet with a huge statement to the climbing World unreal from yanet as she goes down look I get a lot of stick right from saying you know overhyping y perhaps when you watch someone being that good over and over again I mean what can you say yeah no I think she deserves all the hype definitely this is provisional of course but I think all the appeals have stopped so Yan gambet taking the top spot with a top jilo after that on 44 plus and Sho 43 plus that's our podium

Channel: Climbing Rocks

Views: 144,344

Keywords: IFSC, IFSC Finals, IFSC Competition, Climbing World Cup, Climbing, Rock Climbing Competition, Rock Climbing, Sports Climbing, Climbing Rocks, World Cup, Sport Climbing, Competition Climbing, Climbers, IFSC World Cup Lead Wujiang 2024, Lead FInals Wujiang, Lead FInals

Id: yrrEiSab6DY

Length: 40min 46sec (2446 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 14 2024