Bobcat Skid Loader Part 2

hey everyone I'm on the road just to do a parts pickup we're gonna try to put the skin loader back together today's the day that the guys are going to work on fixing that skid loader get it back fixed it's kind of rainy that's so much rain this that's so much rain this morning but very very cloudy very cloudy and 56 degrees here in Michigan anyways I'm headed to Bobcat to pick up a piston ring we're gonna work at trying to get that skid loader completely fixed today see how that goes alright I got the part it's right here hopefully this will do the job and the skid loader will be back running like a pro so we're back working on the s 150 again as in the previous video we put a head gasket in it because I was using a little bit of water and we had the oil line that broke and engine sock full of Iran on the ran on hydraulic oil for a little while trying to shut it off a lot of people have commented on that saying that you needed to close down the air I was trying to okay I was trying to get it shut down but by the time I got around it wasn't the time because you got flipped some lit up and you got a oil with spraying all over and it was a mess so by the time I got to shut it down it had pumped itself the 9 gallon oil how and went all over some yeah and then one in the engine because the one so so he did compression test and we changed the head gasket out because when we pulled it we saw the head gasket it looked like it had a bad spot in it and we thought that would take care of it while it raised their compression by from 300 to like 350 and we were supposed to be at 450 because we we inspected the head and everything and the head was good the valves were good so we did a bleed down test where you compress it with air and to hear when it comes out and it sounds like it's leaking it around the piston for the Rings so we're gonna so a lot of snow it's out of range not a head gasket so we got the head off now and we're working at getting the oil pan off so I was looking on YouTube there's not hardly any videos on how to remove this engine really so I thought of a different way oh well okay leave it up to him so you look there okay let's not so if you look there we got the head pulled off the cow is having a bus yeah okay I got that is off we got the head pulled off and we took these two back motor mounts out okay so no more motor mount on the back side we left the two front end and my ideal as I was wondering if the engine would tip up got the handyman Jack out aha and we hooked it here on the flywheel housing and sure enough we jacked it up six inches let's price oil down there well that's all from the oil that blew up so we're in the process now we got to take this off and we're gonna get to the oil pan see if it comes off all right so it's kind of a unique way of doing it cuz I ran on some of the forums they said to pull pull the whole thing out but I was hoping this idea works cuz I don't want to take it all out if I don't have that all right I'll be here to watch so will everybody else okay all right so in the process here too you know you're all your hydraulic lines everything hooked up yet so when when you picked it up yeah you have to make sure nothing gets pinched or kidding so everything looks good on the way up so what are you doing um we're we're gonna take the oil pan it's all bolted in yeah called oil pan because it catches on okay we got yeah indeed act up and we went around and took all the bolts out so now we're gonna pop the overpaying on I'm using a flat chisel which there goes the Oh out of hand so that's what out nice so it's almost like there was that whatever yeah all right we removed the oil pan but you saw already and then we remove the cap so now we're gonna work at pushing the rod and piston up through the hole a lot of times I like to use the rubber of a hammer and see what happens hey I'll take over thanks to we're gonna push the piston up with a hammer handle yeah totally is rubber part yeah there be folks so what part needs to be replaced the ring now we're gonna just have a cylinder I should wipe it out first the cow agreed yeah nothing are we looking for a crack well I don't know if these are cracker night well yeah you look for anything obvious and it's always that one piston heard this so is this one here little compression lower that lower compression I think we'll be back tomorrow we're gonna let this thing soak overnight and some degreaser and then tomorrow though they'll put it all back together so this is part one of the continued so after doing a little bit of digging the guys thumb that this connecting rod is bent and so we ordered another one which is right here you can see this is bent so when the oil went into the piston it was too much compression and something had to give and was this rod and so we're gonna replace it with this rod and I think we're just gonna put it all back together now and that's what we're doing this afternoon sorry I put the pin back in the piston connect the connecting rod back together everything's all cleaned up nice and clean them so this pin should go in really easy we're just gonna make sure we got this lined up right in this case the back arrow points to be the back of the engine in this case and the same with the lettering it's really quite easy and on this one some of them have to be heated and I'm like time to tap it with the unprofessional way to get that lined up just feeding the pen feel fancy I'll clip in I can never figure out how they possibly going and then we're ready go back in I didn't on this square so up in there yeah it'll get oiled sorry puttin the rings on I've got datasheet here on exactly how they want them aligned in the cylinder so we'll try to do that first they got the wiring I already put the spring on for the o-ring this one runs a little wire I think most of them do but inside the spring and then it kind of acts like an accordion that just gonna gently weasel around that down a little bit can you damage him yeah if you do to put too much for you I try not to then you're on the whole point then we've got our second ring there's an N on it that in this case signifies up I don't know why but okay this is number B number B yes number B so in this case I've got this little five dollar auto part store ring spreader works pretty well let's put it in like that spread the ring outs just enough to get over it drop it a second groove and you're down top ring and goes up same thing again gently spread it it's not supposed to pop off but hey it does yeah it did there so that's ready to go back and sit on there just like that have to be I'll use a ring compressor that way it slides back in we're gonna put the piston in to start I've got all this I cleaned out that cylinder I removed all the carbon that was up on top it's cleaned it out with carb cleaner just put some oil on my rag we I like these rays because they don't leave lint these everywhere last thing we need is lint these every way but when the--the whatever you wanna call i'm just slightly oiling my ring compressor in a slightly oil lightly oil this as well all the way down just that way the Rings aren't metal on metal then we put it in all right the Rings are where they need to be for I don't know what you call it but they're aligned Llanelli air so I'm going over a tape you tighten that till all the Rings are all the way in oh so this is tightening the yeah you got a it's pretty much go be as tight as the cylinder walls gonna be because it's it's making it allowing to slide down in there a lot hitting at her yeah yeah everything's cleaned up nice and clean we're gonna go ahead and put this in arrow is pointing this way ready to go so got a ring compressor set I'm just gonna set that in there that's the right direction then yep alright so our hillbilly way of pounding it down in here is I don't have a rubber block rang and put in there so I've got a piece of towel fold over like six times and I've got a socket I'm just gonna really gently tap on it make sure the Rings slide past but but uh slow and steady wins the race so now that that's in I've got the crank set to well it's set at the bottom so I'm gonna shove this down I'm gonna align it with the crank journal put plastic gauge on the cab will show you guys I do that once I get everything set back up for that so this is plastic age for people who don't know this is sealed part rant but this is the green stuff it's for measuring the oil clearance on your crank shaft journals this specific the green stuff I'm assuming Green is standard across the brand but it's for specking between 1000 and 3000 which is actually actually what's actually directly what this engine requires so so I've got a little piece of it here I do have an IRL if we need it but I take this little piece crank journal is dry and this all is dry so I'm going to put this little piece on that and then we're gonna bolt that up there we're going to torque this cap to the proper specs which is 36 foot pounds for its engine and then we're gonna see we're going to take the cap back off we're gonna see how far this plastic aged squished out with just show you using these lines right here I'll tell us the tolerance of the chapter well that's a plastic age death so take a little piece don't worry it's clean the pieces the stuffs been said in a while so it doesn't look like much but that's what will tell us what the specs are that's all it is yep that little green thing yep so we're gonna go ahead and bolt this up there everything's dry yet we don't want to move it well it's bolted up then we're just gonna we're get tighten it torque it take it right back off and then we'll be back and we'll compare it with this to see for it it's within spec so to do that you don't even be able to see this because this engine the crank is set so far up but everything I've got everything cleaned off already up there but I'm sure if I come see it no way oh this way good way all right so I just torque the rod cap to the proper 36 foot pounds and I'm loosen the back off and we're taking it back off and we'll see what the plastic gauge has to say all right said all right so there on your rod bearing that's the plastic age it's just that so we're gonna compare it with our thickness strip here where's my millimeters here we go so for it to be within spec on this end just going to be between point one thousand three thousand switch let's see what it is a little difficult to show - bit of a guessing game that's 1,000 say it's a little bit bit smaller than 1000 I'd say it's pretty close to what I have which is perfect that's right within spec so that's within spec we're gonna clean this off I'm gonna oil this I'm gonna push the piston back up I'm gonna oil that I don't want on the crankshaft journal and then we're gonna put this cap back on torque it back to spec and then we'll move on put the oil pan right back on but yeah cuz it's what them spec so it looks good so what happens if it wasn't in spec and you or you didn't even do you have to use you don't have to it's just it's kind of as double check things like it's always recommended because things could be wrong as this is the new connecting rod I wanted to make sure it's within spec we reuse this is the bearing here the silver insert and we're using the original bearing some people always use new bearings but I view it as it's not spun it's already worn to the crankshaft the crankshaft it's got 7,000 hours on it's already specifically worn in that specific direction to the crankshaft journal and I'd rather not change that so alright so I got the plastic age all taken off I cleaned it all I popped the piston back up enough so that way I could reclaim the crank journal I hold everything so now we got put oil on here new install I would use assembly lube but I'm just we used engine oil because these bearings are pre worn so it'll be fine so in this case because it's a DS so you can't really see not much to see no I mean at RK I'm just gonna snag them up both up before I do and we'll go ahead 36-foot everything's an order but uh so we're gonna install the little pain this is all cleaned up and you're gonna put some Permatex on it I'm awesome new permatex feeling there's a plug in that one so this is what we got it's Permatex that's gasket maker thumb just seals it up yeah even though I don't have enough just go squeeze the last bit out here around yeah that's why you have this thing see just a little squirt goes a long way it needs to be cutting all these years we can just use this just use this like that now we have to cut that and I already scooped it so got the right direction mm-hmm I thought it would be the other way no taint the other side smooth you had to put more on it a little bead is it important to keep the oil pan clean yeah this ain't no what you call a field overhaul notice and easy ones first easy first why not we've lost a nut so right now he is torquing all the bolts to 49 to 55 foot pounds and he's just kind of checking he 20 but he's already done all of them he's just making sure that he didn't miss any back ones we got a deal I feel that ones are a little harder let the engine down there's one rubber belt make sure the board's out it's clear there's the other one and [Music] are you finished yeah we're gonna quit for right now for the day right now it's getting dark out so yeah good morning today this skid loader right here this skid loader is gonna be up and running we're putting the head back on today and we gotta hook everything back up and we're gonna start it and hopefully it would be like new so that's what Sydney's gonna be working on this morning I'll be here just to show you guys Casey needs another hand so to start I'm gonna just lay the oil I got oil on the towel here my wind free towels again and they're lightly oil the cylinder walls just to make sure there's a little bit of oil there before we start it so what are you used to clean that with I prefer carb cleaner brake cleaner works I've used paint thinner and it while it does take off old gaskets it doesn't it doesn't dry see how the head will get a line there's a dowel here and there's a dowel here for lying the head and when we set it down almost there so we replaced the head gasket the last time that didn't solve the problem so then we had to order another gasket because they're not reusable but you got to make sure this is clean to then so this is brand new another 100 in some bugs but yeah what are you doing yeah the lines already on the sue dolls so I got the head here it's all cleaned off where you go you know let me help start by just setting it there got my alternators in the way let me make sure were lined up oh there we go so our in both alignment pins and I guess gets lined up so just bolted down torque it to the right pounds and so now we're gonna put the head bolts back in I know there are a few that said but we should replace these regardless of being torqued heeled they're not and normally I would agree with you on that just kind of as a safety precaution so that way you don't break any but these aren't tart tilde manuals specifically for this engine says that you don't need to replace them and I still would except for the fact that Bob kit gets almost four hundred bucks for a set of 18 bolts so for that specific reason we're not because it's not required otherwise yeah I would normally agree with you and say let's replace them but it's it's never a bad habit to do that so I got my own rig again I'm just really lightly oiling the head bolts I'm putting them back in the exact same hole they came out of when I forgot to mention before I put the head on was I chased all the threads on the block itself I blew my with compressed air then I ran a bolt into him take it took it back out took a dry clean rag wipe the threads off and did it again a couple times just to make sure there isn't any dirt in the hole so when you go to torque it if there's dirt in the hole when you go to target these bolts may bind on that dirt if that gives you a wrong torque reading you're gonna have a spot in your head that's not talking properly so you don't want that to happen but we're just gonna go ahead and put the bolt back in where they belong make sure just a little bit of oil you don't wanna put too much on the hide you lock it that's right now I'm working on putting in the bolts by hand so that way I feel if it binds anything I know that there's a problem that before we go and torque it so to start out I got all the bolts in they're not tight but they're just in we're going to start out in the end we're gonna target to 72 foot pounds every bolt I'm gonna I don't like talking ahead to that all of the one go just because of the amount of pressure it puts in the center it's a prime it'd probably be fine but what we're gonna do is I'm a torque them to 32 or 35 and go all the way around okay the way they do it pretty much always loosening you're working from your way out inward if you're tightening you're working away from the center outward that's what we're doing to be going in and just kind of a big circle fashion to the 18 volts so so first is 35 yeah 30 to 35 we'll do them all double check them and then we'll go to 72 at the big torque range so it may look like a jumbled mess but I took our push rods out and order they are in order for our rockers so we're gonna clean them up or you put them right back in it came from right in there we go along and do them all like that yeah we're just making sure he put them right back in the exact same hole they came out of he goes onto the hole they warned to put the rocker arm assembly back in I'll target down to its specs make sure these are all roughly where they need to be in that upside-down these all each align with it don't matter so much till we start getting it tape this all right now they're all snug down the rockers are seat against the bottom everything's lined up all the push rods are on their rocker so we're just gonna go and torque it it's not much but so now we'll put the valve cover back on and then we're pretty much good to hook the injectors back up glow plugs hook everything back up and fill it with liquids go give her a go yay so that what he's doing is allowing oil to crying yeah you guys ready there we go [Music] yeah run this for a couple hours I know quite a couple hours maybe half an hour so no change you know again that way whatever was left when we put everything back together we do our best to clean everything out there's always gonna be a little a dirt and stuff that made it any other way but we'll change the aisle again here after we run it for half hour so that way we get all that all that dirt will get caught in filter clean it out clean it up we all know did it run good yeah sounded good yeah awesome yay yeah good thanks for showing us yeah [Music]

Channel: Acres of Clay Homestead

Views: 28,213

Rating: 4.9648352 out of 5

Keywords: Dairy farm, farming, homesteading, family farm, farm kids, farm, cows, cow, dairy, milk, homestead, country, life on the farm, diy, how to, Massey Ferguson, New holland, John Deere, tractor, crops, #homesteading life, #acresofclay, acres of clay, Michigan, dairy farm, calves, calf, homemade, canning, how to make, how the farm works, farmers wife, farmers daughter, farmboys

Id: MxSO-7lwzm0

Length: 31min 25sec (1885 seconds)

Published: Mon May 25 2020