Blown Generator Engine Swap

hey guys welcome back so today i brought home another stormresponder generator this one is in pretty good shape it's complete and you can probably tell just by looking at it it was well cared for definitely stored indoors now it wouldn't be here if it didn't have a problem so let me show you what that is there's absolutely no compression yeah that's not good it ran out of oil and you can actually see bits of the engine sitting there in the bottom so i knew that when buying this that the engine was blown i'm actually surprised it didn't punch a hole through the side here that's usually what happens so potentially the block could be saved in the engine rebuilt but i'm not going to worry about that right now i have an extra briggs and stratton 10 horse engine and this one should be a direct replacement to the one that's blown all i have to do is get the old engine out put this one in and we should be good to go so i want to get you set up in a stand i want to pull the tank off the generator just so you can see better what's going on get that gen head off and swap the engines so i was planning on pulling the spark plug and checking to see if the piston is moving but based on the fact that there's no oil in this bits of the engine in the oil pan i'm not gonna bother so i'm gonna pull the stator off next and luckily briggs has this quick disconnect here on the outlets otherwise i would definitely have to pull the wires off of the stator before trying to slide this out so if i'm really lucky i only need to remove the brushes and if the bearing doesn't hang up i can just slide everything out if i'm unlucky and i need to use a puller then i'm going to have to pull the wires the avr and just get it all out of the way so that i can get the stator off and just take note the red usually goes on the left and that's what it is here it's also marked by a yellow indicator here which has a plus so now this end is floating and what i'm going to do now is just stick a board down there to kind of let this thing hover out in space i remove these bolts and hopefully this whole thing slides out so next i'm going to remove these four bolts but before doing so i'm actually going to try torquing it down to see at what point does the bolt start turning i'm expecting it to be somewhere between 60 and 100 inch pounds i get the wrench set to 80 and we'll start with this one see if it turns and it does not so now i'm trying 100 didn't move all right that last one was 120 i thought it moved a bit so now i'm gonna try 130 yep it's turning so it's probably around 120 that's actually a little higher than i normally go usually i'll stop at 100 so you know i'd rather have it a little bit loose than to strip out the bell housing okay let's see if we get lucky and this thing just slides out [Laughter] okay yeah this is fighting me i'm gonna have to use a puller you do not want to crank down on this you will break the end housing ask me how i know that wasn't too bad i didn't have to remove that many wires i did just use a gear puller to apply light pressure until it slid off the bearing and now for the fun part getting that rotor off in order to get the rotor off i have to lock up the engine usually i do that by pulling the spark plug out and stuffing rope in the cylinder to lock it up in this case that'll do no good since the piston is seized and the connecting rods broken so i need to get this blower housing off so i can hold the flywheel in place but before this will come off i have to get this top cover off the carburetor off and probably this weather shield off as well so you [Music] so this just has a plastic cooling fan sometimes it's cast you know the flywheel and the fan as one piece in which case i might put channel locks on the fins to kind of keep it from spinning and even if the fins were metal you could break it doing it that way so i'm just going to use a strap that i've previously sacrificed but the idea is you just wrap this around the flywheel the metal part tighten it up and then attach the clip somewhere to keep things still similar to the stator bolts i don't know what this should be torqued to generally they're between 20 and 40 foot-pounds so i'm going to start at 20. try tightening it see if this thing turns at all all right not turning at 20. try 25. yeah it did turn so somewhere between 20 and 25 foot pounds is where this was tightened too i've never taken one of these apart that has an avr the only ones i've done at least for briggs and stratton are the ones that have a bridge rectifier and those you always have to tap threads in this case there might be threads already i'm not sure what size that is but i'm going to try a few bolts and see if i can find one that fits i'm starting to like this uh avr head usually i tap it to an m12 1.25 and that's what this bolt is you can tell i've used it a few times anyway it fits perfectly so this is going to be pretty easy so you just want to get a measurement here you want to push the bolt in until it hits the shaft and then mark it this will give you a rough length from the end here to where it hits the shaft on the engine now you want to get a rod one that's larger in diameter you don't want it to be the same size as this because what you're going to do is push the rod in and you'll mess up the threads so you want it to be bigger so it doesn't actually go in to the tapered shaft and destroy the threads anyway you want to cut the rod to be a little bit shorter than this mark so about a third of an inch shorter and what that'll do is you can then put the rod in it'll go in a third of an inch further than the end you put the bolt in and just crank down and that will pop the rotor off of the tapered shaft all right so that's the rod i cut potentially a little bit short but we'll give it a try actually i think that'll work fine ideally you would do this with something long like a breaker bar these things they do require a bit of force and the rotor usually pops somewhat forcefully it's going to eject most likely so you do want to have a hand on it and the other hand on the wrench and try not to drop it there we go [Music] i thought the hard part was over but there's two more bolts left holding this engine on and you can see i already put wd-40 on it i've already tried cracking this loose and it's not budging so i'm gonna try hitting this with a hammer to see if i can't free it up otherwise i can just unscrew the bracket from the bottom and leave the bracket connected to the engine which is fine because i do have a couple extra but i would like to just use these brackets if i could plan b the last step here is to switch the bell housings you can see the bell housing on this one's a lot more substantial that's the one we need to put on to the new old engine so i've already loosened the bolts on that one i estimated it was around 25 foot pounds give or take this one's a little interesting it uses hex hex head bolts and i don't really have an appropriate set to take that off assuming it's torqued to 25 or 30 foot-pounds so i'm gonna have to try this it's just a quarter inch socket to hold i think it was a 7 16 hex head and i don't know if i'll get enough leverage and even if i do something might break but let's hope for the best i wire wheeled all the bolts at least the part that's going to engage the threads now i don't know the torque spec on this but it looks like a grade 5 bolt and i looked up torque specs going into aluminum for what looks to be a 3 8 inch bolt and it comes up with a max of 24 foot pounds which seems about right i was going to do 20 so i'll start with 20 and if it feels good maybe i'll push it a little further i'm also going to use some thread locker these bolts had some on it when they came out so i want to make sure those stay in especially too because if they do come out they're going to start flying around where the fan is and destroy the fan so i want to make sure these bolts stay tight this okay i'm going to stay at 20 foot pounds i don't feel too good about pushing it up to the limit which would be 24. if the threads were new the bolts were new sure but that's not the case here so this time i'm just going to pull the plug and fill that cylinder with rope so that i can put the rotor on and torque it down okay so if i put enough rope in the cylinder i should be able to tighten this down to 20 foot-pounds i tested this before loosening it and did not turn at 20 it turned at 25 so i'm gonna start at 20 and maybe bump it up a little bit past that now one question i'm asked a lot is basically it looks like i put the bolt on incorrectly because there's a lot of play and when you tighten it up it's pretty much impossible to get it dead center it's usually always pushed to a side and when i power this up the bolt is wobbling and i think that's normal not too concerned about it i mean honestly when you put the stator on and the end housing on the four bolts around the whole thing is sandwiched together it's not going anywhere at that point this bolt becomes a lot less important but you know i'll try to keep it as centered as possible but i can never get it okay that's 20 foot pounds take it up to 23. we're at 23. i don't feel comfortable going anymore so i'm just going to leave it at that okay i got the rope out of the cylinder i'm going to put the stator on now while i'm here i'm just going to clean the slip rings just be careful not to knock the wire off this is just a scotch brite pad uh just going to tap on the end housing a bit to make sure that stator seats properly in the slip right now it's not seated okay i'm going to start with 40 inch pans okay now 80. okay now i'm just going to turn the engine over listening for any scraping or even worse if the engine binds because of something that i've done well there's a lot of noise up here but i don't hear anything down here so i think we're good to finish this thing up i'm going to start with the brushes i don't know the torque spec on this but it's very little this strips out very easily just want to snug it up that's it okay plug the brushes in red's on the left okay that's almost it we just got to put this plug in the back here for the outlets and then attach the ground wire right there okay i know i'm putting the cart before the horse but this was bugging me so i pulled the tin from the muffler with blown up engine and i'm gonna put that hopefully over here and yes i broke a bolt but three will work just fine okay ready to give this thing a try got a fuel line hooked up not a lot of gas in it probably run it for about a minute so i haven't done anything to this engine since i got it but i did check the oil it's full of old oil so plenty of oil to test with and once it warms up i'll change the oil also the carb i haven't serviced so potentially that could be an issue as well voltage is about 113.88 okay well there's good news and bad news i guess the good news first makes power it voltage was a bit low like 113 114 when i loaded it with 1500 watts the voltage actually came up to 118 which is a bit odd but whatever we can adjust that the more concerning thing is the engine speed was at about 61.8 and when i loaded it to 1500 watts it dropped to 59 and a half that's a pretty big drop considering this has a 5500 continuous watt rating so i'm a little concerned actually about this engine let me refuel i'm gonna bring out another space heater and try loading it to 3000 see how the engine holds out okay let's try this again with 3000 watts [Applause] okay not terrible but not great at least it was about 58 hertz under a 3000 watt load so i'm going to bring out another space heater we'll try 4 500 watts also the engine's making a lot of noise it's actually not the engine it's the starter assembly it's rattling kind of on the engine so the engine isn't quite as loud as it sounds ready to give this another try with 4500 watts and i did unbolt the avr and i gave this potentiometer about a half a turn clockwise to get the voltage up i'm going to re-secure this now and then start it up and see see where we're at for voltage and then try the load test okay overall not too bad i mean this thing is doing what it's supposed to do it's making power and it has a working engine so my only reservation here is the fact that the engine is sagging more than it should it's a 10 horse engine and under 4 500 watts ideally it would stay above 58 hertz or even above 59 hertz but it's at 56 point something that's that's too low it's definitely a sign that something isn't quite right with the engine so i'm going to dig into that a bit it could be leaky valves valve lash dirty carb or something to do with governor spring and linkage and that's actually kind of where i'm leaning on this one because at one point when the engine was loaded up and running a bit slow i just nudged the throttle plate open a bit more and it had no problem getting up to speed to 60 61 hertz it's just the governor wasn't allowing it to or commanding it to to that speed so you know there might might be some adjustments we can make there but i'm going to get this back to the garage while it's hot change the oil and then we'll dig in up here and see if we can't find anything obvious wrong i just want to show you on the blown up engine what i think the issue might be you can see there's a bunch of holes here on the governor arm and the spring is attached and this spring is what pulls the throttle plate open and it's not until after the engine starts that the governor applies force to the shaft and starts closing the throttle now when the force decreases because the engine slows down this spring pulls the throttle back open but that's not happening and it's can be a lot of things on why there's so much rpm drop but in this case i think it's the sensitivity of the governor and by bringing the spring closer to the shaft it should decrease the rpm droop so what i'm gonna do is move it one hole closer on the outside and that may actually that will change the engine speed i think it'll decrease it a little bit so we're gonna have to reset the engine speed back up to 62 hertz or 37.50 rpm and then i'll try loading it up again and see how we make out well this would explain what we're seeing the further away from the shaft you are the less responsive it is to a load and we're seeing we're seeing that so on the other engine the blown up one it was on the fifth hole which is right there and this one's on the seventh so that would explain why this is not very sensitive to a load i don't know if someone did this at some point or if this is how it came from the factory but i'm going to move it back to the fifth hole and it looks like that'll remove some spring tension so most likely the engine is going to run slow when i start it i'll have to bend this tab to get it back to 62 hertz and then we'll do another load test okay good i'm going to leave this cover off just like this because if you go too far in it becomes too sensitive and the engine will surge i don't know if that'll be the case until we start it up and see what it does okay just going to start it up check the speed and adjust it then we'll load it up yeah pretty slow [Music] actually not too bad 62.5 that's a lot better yeah probably the end of speed right around where it is okay good that was a lot better usually i like setting engines around 61 and a half and in this case it's like 62.234 somewhere around there maybe a touch fast but i've also seen plenty of manuals where it says to set it to 62 or 62 and a half so i'm not going to worry about it too much the good news is at that speed a 4500 watt load doesn't slow the engine down too much i think it was at 59.7 which is actually very good so i think we're good i'm not going to worry about it anymore going to get this back inside the garage and just finish putting it together all right now that we're all good mechanically and electrically i want to pretty this thing up again and make it look like it belongs on this engine so i'm going to swap out the air box cover with a storm responder one from the blown up engine and also this cover here on the top is quite rusty so i'm going to try the the blower housing from the blown up engine and see if it'll fit in this one's place yeah that screw's already missing so i stole a few bolts from the broken engine it was missing one bolt down on the bottom right here there's supposed to be one on the bottom one on the top and then on this side it had the wrong bolt it had this and the threads actually look different so i don't know if this is going to fit but it's supposed to have one like this where this here is what holds the starter fan shroud in place and then this is held on by this nut so we'll see if i can get this to work otherwise i might have to stick with the original you i i got the heat shield in place i've already tightened it down there's one screw in each corner and those are tightened from the bottom also there's two down here on this rail so now i'm just going to drop the tank in place and tighten that down all right and before putting the end cover on there was a specialty zip tie kind of holding this together which isn't really needed for that because there is a clip here which latches this together but i think more importantly it had a hole and you could screw it right there to kind of keep this nicely secured in this case i mean it'd probably be okay just like this but to be sure i'm gonna throw a zip tie probably around here and then through here doesn't have to be too tight really it's just to keep this from falling in or potentially moving down and just making contact with a moving part okay it's all back together let's make sure it still works okay not too bad for a generator that had a blown engine anyway it starts first pull runs well can support a load can't ask for much more hope this video helps someone thanks for watching

Channel: James Condon

Views: 32,956

Rating: 4.6752901 out of 5

Keywords: 204412-0163-E1, 21T212-0116-G1, Blown Connecting Rod, Briggs and Stratton, Connecting Rod, Engine Speed Sagging Under Load, Engine Swap, Fixed, Generator Repower, Generator, Governor Droop, Governor Spring, Low Oil, Small Engine, Storm Responder, Troubleshooting, 21T212, 204412

Id: VR4AQgUBGX0

Length: 48min 56sec (2936 seconds)

Published: Thu Sep 10 2020