Is it the biggest gym you've been to as well? I think it's the biggest gym I've been to yeah definitely! They're like a similar height to what I'm used to, but it's like the share space. And I really wish that this was here when I was young. This is like so much better than the place I grew up in. And they have set a crack boulder for us. I think it looks really hard, Pete thinks it looks really easy. Haha he actually didn't say that. But Icould tell by the way you looked at it. And these are your new crack gloves right? Yes, so that will be the test, Because if you manage the boulder in the crack gloves.. Honestly I don't think any crack gloves would get me up that boulder haha. But you never know. I think we should do like a gym tour though cuz this gym is probably.. It might be the best gym I've seen, like ever! It's a very big building, so there is a lot of other stuff going on There's like a weight room, conference rooms.. There's a lot of different sports in the same building. And everything was founded by a guy called Trond Mohn, he's like a local hero who's donated a lot of money to sports in Bergen So this is all the like "commercial" bouldering. The volumes on the wall are on for everything, unlike the gym in Oslo where you can only use the volumes that are in the same color as the problem. And they use a tape system here so. The boulders are not graded. So you have to look at the color of the tape. Every section is named after a local bouldering spot. Matre is a really famous place. We might go to Matre and make a video. Maybe. Maybe. And they have a lot of the Wide Boyz volumes as well. Yeah they have a few of those. We're gonna try that boulder later. And Pete looked at it and immediately knew what to do. I was like so confused. Im psyched for that one. And then this like massive lead wall. And double speed walls. I mean just look at this place! What's quite nice about the speed climbing as well is that they have propper timers. Yeah. Which is quite good. They call this the competition wall. There not many routes on it and they're probably gonna keep it this way. They want to keep it clean. And set like comp style routes. We might do a lead climbing video as well For us it feels a little bit boring to watch cuz it takes so long to climb a route. Do you think we should do a... well I think the nice thing about these routes is they look quite interesting. That's true. So hopefully there will be some interesting moves. So we should make a lead video then? Yeah, I think so. I think so too. There's a led wall behind me. So you choose the route and it lights up. There are about 30 different routes here. From 5a to 8b+. This is where they do climbing courses and stuff. And I'm not part owner or anything, that's not why I'm advertising for this. I'm just fascinated when I see a cool climbing gym like this. This was built by Friction Walls The same company that built the walls in Oslo and in Kristiansand. They're basically building all the climbing gyms that are put up in Norway, nowadays. There is also a big lead wall up there, but it looks tiny compared to these big lead walls. So I think in Europe there are only two gyms that are bigger than this. As far as I know. There is the one in Edinburgh and there is the on in Innsbruck. That's in terms of climbing surface area. Surface area yeah. And the one in Innsbruck a lot of that climbing is outdoors So I guess you can't use that during the winter. Cuz it's too cold. A little bit shorter lead walls. I think it's good because I know a lot of people get a little bit intimidated by the really big walls. Do you think you could make this into a crack climb Pete? You can make everything into a crack climb. Yeah you can get a little cheeky jam in there. Haha Maybe your fat fingers could. Maybe my fat fingers could yeah. It does look pretty impressive from here actually. Yeah. So up there is the training room. So what do you like from a training room? What do you like to see? Well there are certain things. I mean you can tell me if there is something missing. But I would say you need a campus board. Kilter board, moon board, maybe even a tension board. They don't have a tension board here. The cool thing about this Kilter board though is that you can adjust it, so you can adjust the angle. If you project something and you send the project, you can make it slightly harder just by changing the angle 5 degrees We felt this wall earlier and it's really stable too. Sometimes when you have the adjustable walls they will be kinda wobbly. But this one is... dead still. What do you prefer? Kilter board, Moon board, or the tension board? I've never climbed on a tension board. But I would pick the Kilter board over the Moon board. Okay yeah. Just the holds are much nicer and the lighting system, like that's kinda the way climbing and training is going. With these like adjustable walls, lighting systems. Yeah. The campus board could have been a little bit bigger I think. But it's okay. Does it go up to 9? Yeah 9. So you can do 1-5-9. How's the benchmark strength? I've never done 1-5-9. Not even close. Have you? Haha no! No? I don't know. You do some freakish stuff. Beastmaker. That should also be standard I think. Do you agree? Yeah yeah I definitely agree cuz it has like benchmarks. This one is kinda cool, I hadn't seen this before. So you can adjust the angle, just by pulling this out. So it's kinda like the Kilter board where you can make it slightly harder by changing the angle. Do you think in the future they'll have lighted system fingerboards? LED Fingerboards? Maybe. You know when you just do campusing on the fingerboard. If they had like slightly better edges and then the next hold would light up and you do like 100-move campus. Yeah. I think that would be pretty cool. Yeah! There's a chaos wall behind here. It's 12 meters long. So a chaos wall is just filled with different holds. And you make the problems yourself, or with friends. So there should be just as many holds as possible. I don't know if you've seen those photos of Japanese walls? Where there is not even a square centimeter without any holds. It's so packed. The more holds the easier it is to make good problems. So I think that was the gym. There is a little wall up there. There's a kids room downstairs. I mean it's good to have good to have okay kids rooms cuz that's gonna recruit more young climbers. The next Adam Ondra. You just gonna jump on this? Yeah yeah should we just give it a go? Cuz you pretty much know the beta just from looking at it right? Cuz you set so many boulders with these type of holds. I mean their your holds. Yeah hahah Yeah Basically it starts with a perfect hands up the three volumes. And then there is a transition to thin hands. And that thin hands in a roof is always tricky. And then you have to make the move going around the little lip. I'm not sure maybe you'll be able to do it hands first, or maybe it will be something similar to, remember that move we set in Oslo? Yeah hahah. That was actually off a hand jam.. remember going into the.. yeah.. feet first into the fist jam. It doesn't look as big as that though. Can you give a grade estimation before starting? On this one? Yeah. Uhhhh I'll go for... uhhh 7B? 7B+? And then you add about five grades and you have the correct grade. Hahah Icould be totally wrong with that. Do you feel any nerves before the flash attempt? Do you feel like you should flash this? I feel like I should flash my own volumes yeah haha. No matter how their set? Hahah yeah! This is the key for any crack climbing. It's not chalking the fingers, it's chalking the palms haha. Nice! Good haha. There we go. It is a little bit tricky establishing yourself on the think one in the middle. I think it probably is about right. Like 7B+.. 7B? If you know how to crack climb? Haha yeah if you know how to crack climb. Do you own a pair of crack gloves? I don't. Oh you don't? But I might buy a pair of these. Taping is so too much work for me. Especially if you do a full crack session... which I've never done haha I was just about to say.. have we changed you? ... then it might be worth the investment, but I mean if you just try one problem. This is Magnus talking about crack sessions. Hahah yeah! I was like where is that coming from. Times are changing. Come on. Feet all the way to the end. Yeah. Good. Left hand at the top of the volume. Come on. Come on. Keep working the feet. Yes that's it! That's it. Now reach across the... Uhhh That was it. You spend so much more time climbing a crack boulder than a normal boulder. I get out of breath. So I don't think you guys want to see me fail again and again, so I'm just gonna try the different parts The we gonna move on to try different boulders. Like there are a lot of different hard boulders in this gym. But before we do that we gonna take a little commercial break.. So today's video is brought to you by Raycon. These are the Everyday E25 earbuds. They come in a lot of different cool colors. Their perfect if you want to take some time off the screen, but you don't want to completely disconnect. I use these not only to listen to my music, but also to listen to my favourite podcasts. Igo running with them, climbing with them. And no matter how hard I shake it. Their not gonna come out. They have up to 6 hours of playtime and you can charge them 4 times in this compact carrying case. They have more bass, amazing sound and they come at about half of the price of any other premium brands that you guys know. They have a 45 day free return policy. They're also chalk resistant.. or as far as I know. I mean I have chalked them up pretty hard. So all you have to do is go to the link in the description, or you go to buyraycon.com/magmidt And you will get 15% off. Thank you Raycon for sponsoring this video, now let's get back to the climbing. Yeah yeah yeah.. You have fatter fingers than me and you could get your fingers in that? Medium, small, large.. and for me the medium one is.. or for everyone the medium one is the easiest. I don't know if you see the difference, but this one you can't get your fingers in at all. And the upper one is a little bit too wide, so it feels really loose. There is too much space in there. Good, good! Yeah really good. That was good! I can't quite remember the configuration I used with my hands. But it's probably quite important you go the correct way around so you do the minimum amount of moves. Yes, flip the top hand! Yes like that. Maybe I will try this again. But now I kinda just want to try some of the normal boulders haha I have to say I think you've got smoother on the hands though. Like each time we make you crack climb... It's probably like the muscle memory and the moves are working in the back of my head even though I'm not like training it. But that's also how Ifeel bouldering sometimes you know if you try a boulder outside.. For one session and then you don't try it for a year and you come back. You still feel a little bit better usually. Because you sort of remember it. So how do you feel about the World Cups now having cracks? The World Cups having cracks I think is really good! Commentator: Aleksey Rubstov jamming! That's what we mean when we say a jam. His left hand just pressing out with his knuckles. It's like a new style, it brings something else in. And it's something else for the competitors to work on and try. I mean these are like the best athletes in the world, I feel like they should be well rounded. I mean in the Olympics they introduced speed climbing, so you know throw it all in there. Parkour, crimps, slopers, like compressions. Like get the cracks in there. Yeah Ihear a lot of people hating on them haha Commentator: Yeah I think most climbers don't like to see cracks too much, I mean it's not something as natural in the gym, it's really difficult to set. You've not gotten a call from any World cup teams yet? No, but we keep contacting people! Hahah Yeah we've been contacting people. Cuz you want to help them with crack climbing? Yeah yeah like I do want to help them. It would be great to bing, you know, crack climbing to people. Yeah! I just want to teach people. Now we've gone from my style, to my complete anti style. So this is like classic comp style. Dyno jump, probably from looking at it into some toe hook maybe? Yeah you probably have to catch the toe hook first swing. Yeah from a swing yeah yeah first swing as well cuz that's sloping to the left. So you'll see this totally isn't in my bag. Haha. You want me to try it first though? Iusually take a few tries to learn the moves on these types of boulders. Yeah. When you were competing did they have these style of problems come into your.. Yeah a little bit, but I didn't compete much in bouldering. Ahh okay. It was mainly lead. Yeah. What's the tactic? Brushing really well. No so the tactic is just to be confident on the first try. Over shoot it a little bit, so you land it with a little bit bent arms. And then just aim for the toe hook right away. Cuz if you don't catch the toe hook right away you just gonna swing back off the hold. Is that the technique, over shoot it a little bit? Especially if I want to flash a dyno, I try to over shoot it a little bit. Just to be able to control it a little bit you know. I think it's good practice just to commit and try to flash everything you get on. Basically. Even if it's like really hard and you know you're not gonna climb it. Haha yeah And another thing that also very typical on a boulder like this, is that you get so caught up in that one move, you know the jump move That you forget to look at the rest haha. I've done that mistake so many times. I stick that first move and it's not as hard as you think and then you've not looked at the top at all. I think the top looks okay though, but you never know. There is no chalk up there. That's true. That's a good observation. Icould almost stick it without the toe hook. Haha yeah Ohhhh come on, come on! Yes! Easy! I wish it was a little bit smoother. I didn't catch it on the first, but I sort of caught it on the first. So Icould break the swing a little bit. Yeah. Come on! Haha I'm so bad at that kind of stuff. Yeah! That's gonna be really tricky. Okay, yeah closer! It just takes a while to learn the move you know. Cuz this is just technique, it's nothing else. Yeah and spring in the legs. I think your legs are stronger than mine. Are they? Yeah. Have you tried sitting in 90 degrees? No. Cuz I know that you hung on a bar for 20 minutes. I think your pain tolerence is crazy good. You should try 90 degree. Yeah the 90 degree.. yeah sitting in 90 degrees. I wonder what the world record is for that? Oh I think it's.. I've seen it somewhere. I think it's like 12 hours... Ohhh 12 hours? Yeah, that's perfect! Toe hook is massive isn't it? Yeah it's really good. As long as you don't hit the dual texture part. Yeah. Just give me a few more goes. Yeah. Ohhh that was close! Haha. That was close! What's the top like, if I get there? Top is easy. Come on! Yeah easy! Nice! Now you have to jump. It's a little bit hard, but it's a good hold you're going for. Haha Come on, it's a jug! Yep, nice! Nooo! Ahh you made the dyno look so easy tho! Yeah I got the dyno then, that was good! And I think if you've done the dyno once it's gonna be easy next time. That's usually how it is with dynos. That was funny before, I asked you like what's the top like. And you were like "it's easy". I forgot about that one move haha. And then I got up there and Iwas like, how did you do that move and you were like "that's a little bit hard you have to jump" hahah. It's strange cuz the feet are so bad. So how hard do you think this boulder is? Cuz it could be anything from 7b to 7c+ according to the tape thing. Iwas just about to say maybe 7b+. Yeah come on! Yeah easy! Good! Come on! Come on Pete! There we go! You really did that boulder. It's just like a learning thing that jump isn't it. Yeah you really learnt the move. I felt like kinda just like lucky. How's your knee by the way. Oh the knee, yeah it's probably about 95% I Wouldn't feel confident in doing that same style of move you know on the side of the heel and really pulling on it. Okay, this one doesn't look so bad actually. Nice! Come on. Come on. Come on! Easy. Come on! Ohhhh! I was gonna try like a sneaky match. Hahaha I didn't expect you to peal off like that. Ahh me neither. Yeah it's not that good. Might have to do it like that. How you were doing toe hooking and reaching over? Yeah and reach over and just like try to sneak in a second hand. Without a heel hook? Ahh did you put a heel on? Yeah right heel hook. Yeah yeah there you go! Did you go into that? Yeah. Come on! uhhhh Come on. Come on. Toe hook. Yeah yeah yeah. Yes nice. That looks tricky. Yeah I don't know how to do that. Maybe you can just try the upper part first. I think it could be good to know what to do. Come on. That's really hard! Yeah right. The only other way is like coming out matching on that. Yeah. That volume. This looks so easy from the ground too. Yeah. Ithink I'm gonna try it without a toe hook. Try to come in and match. Maybe do like a quickstep for the feet. Yeah. Yeah yeah yeah. Woahh. As soon as you let go of that toe hook. So much of a swing? Yeah. Come on. Ahhh feels like I was really trying to squeeze then. Yeah. That hold feels like the harder you squeeze, the worse it gets. Yeah. Should we give up on that one, move on to the next one? Yeah, probably. Yeah. Is this your style would you say? .. nooo. Hahah I guess the ting with these things are when there's sometimes volumes is you.. there is sometimes like a sneaky beta. But you do have to have some beef as well. Beef helps. Start looks hard, that move. Yeah. Come on. Come on Pete. Nice. Yeah. Come on! Come on Pete! Yeah easy! Ohhh. That was good! Yeah not too bad for a first go. I guess this is the sort of boulder you can't have many tries on. Yeah. It's very powerful and draining. It looked like you were like compressing really hard the whole way. Yeah. Yeah, nice! Nice. Come on, come on. Yeah. That's it, nice. Come on! Go for it. Maybe your supposed to go all out, dyno into it double clutch. Double clutch? Hahaha I've been practicing my double clutch. Haha yeah. Maybe you need to go triple. Haha yeah. I don't think I'm gonna try it like that. No, I don't think I'm gonna try it like that neither. Heel hook didn't really work. Cuz that way you're gonna grab the undercling like this. You need to be able to grab it like here. Yeah nice, that's it! You feel completely stuck haha. I like the look of it though. Yeah yeah it's a cool move. Come on! The heel just makes you feel kinda stuck. Yeah like you're too far back that way. I don't know. Toe hook maybe and then I'm gonna come into that. Yeah. Yeah. There you go. Yeah toe hook! Grab it one hand and then I think you have to jump out of that position. I tried to put my left foot here, instead of there. That doesn't work. I think that is the solution for me. You wanna try that one time. Yeah I'll give it a go with the toe and see what happens. Come on! Yeah easy. Come on man! I'm so crap at toe hooking. I feel like I did best on my flash go. You try a little bit harder sometimes on your flash go. Yeah. Come on! Hahah I don't know. I think I'm just gonna try it from the beginning. Sometime I feel like when I come from the ground I'm a bit more psyched. And I try a little bit harder. But on a problem like this though I'm probably just gonna feel more tired so. Come on, nice, nice! Didn't stick at all that time. We should let it rest maybe? Yeah. So I think we're just gonna end the video there. Also this video was shot with 50 frames per second, usually I shoot in 25 frames. Let me know what you prefer. Uhh maybe you don't see the difference. Make sure you also check out the Wide Boyz on YouTube and on Instagram and we'll see you next time.
