Marlin Firmware Config - Core XY - SKGO - Chris's Basement

how about a marlon config for a core XY 3d printer this is my second sk go you can tell because I put the name on the front I do really like this machine it turns out a very nice quality 3d print but there are a couple things I'd like to change up and I've been having some problems with the main board that came with the machine it came with an sk r 1.3 but i can no longer connect up via serial so I can't use octo print and I do think it's something wrong with the board so I thought this would be a great opportunity to make some changes to the printer and upgrade the main board to an sk r 1.4 also it is currently using TMC 21:30 drivers and they do run just a bit warm so we might as well upgrade to some 2209 s and I do plan on adding auto bed leveling but to make any of these changes we have to change the Marlin firmware so this is a great opportunity to walk through Marlin step by step and get a core XY machine configured with all the features that we want to add so let's get right into the code as we have done many many times before we are gonna head to Marlin FW org and head to downloads I believe there have been some fixes released in Marlin since we did the last video or we're just going to download the 205 3 version right here we will head to downloads and extract all and let's just add SK go to our folder name and we'll hit extract we have extracted I'm gonna go ahead and rename this internal folder as well just so I can keep everything straight now Ernest over at second does have the firmware that you can use for this printer and he does make updates he has a github I will leave a link to it in the description below and he has made some updates within the last couple of months to the firmware so you can just go download this firmware and tweak it for the style of printer that you have and use that it be just fine but that's not near as much fun as creating one from scratch and we don't learn near as much so we will open up vs code I will add my project folder will expand Marlin and will open up configuration dot H now there really isn't a whole lot special about that core XY configuration there's just a couple of options that you need to set and then the firmware will know how to handle that basically you don't have an x and y motor anymore you have what I like to call an A and B motor those two motors work together to make all the X&Y movements if you move left and right both of those motors turn the same direction together if you move forward and back both the motors turn in the opposite directions and then if you move in a 45-degree angle only one motor is going to turn at a time I do show this a little bit more later in the video I don't have a video that's dedicated to the core XY movement but maybe that's something we want to go over at a later time but I'm not going to get really in-depth in this video maybe that's something we'll touch on in the future but for now let's just get the configuration all set up let's update our author comments so we know what we're doing I usually just put my name the date and the printer we're working on for the SK r14 I'm just gonna change the main serial port to negative one negative one we'll use the USB emulated serial port that's on the SK are 32-bit boards we'll leave it a 250,000 baud rate and we're going to change up our board name you've seen me do this a hundred times but we'll get a source core boards the boards are listed by processor we will go down to the 1769 because we're going to use the turbo board and we'll grab a board big tree tech SK r1 for turbo will copy that back to configuration dot H and we'll paste in the board name right here I'm going to update my custom machine name this is what's displayed on the screen when it's idle and will this put SK go we only have one extruder we will update the filament to 175 because that's the size we use not super important unless you're using specific features but it is good practice to get into you we don't need to change up into the power supply settings because I don't have any PSU control on this printer thermal settings we will update our thermistor this printer uses a one the standard 100k thermistor on the hot end and on the bed we can always go back and tune PID later and use those numbers for our configuration but I do have the configuration dot H file that Ernests uses when he builds these printers so I can just use those values for now and go back and tweak them a little later so I'll paste his values in here and we'll just comment out these default ulta maker values for the bed tip this is an AC bed it heats up really quickly PID probably isn't so necessary on the bed so I'm just gonna leave it bangbang you can turn it on if you'd like to PID the bed but you have to tune it as well we will leave prevent cold extrusion that's a nice safety measure prevent lengthy extrude if you have a long Bowden tube you might want to consider making this a little longer this printer is set up with a direct drive knock off Titan extruder for now so I really don't need to adjust this so we'll just leave it at 200 but if you need to make long loads or something like that you're using a script to load and unload filament you might want to consider increasing this thermal runaway we will leave that intact safety is always good and then in the mechanical section this is where you're going to decide how your core XY is set up there's a couple of different ways to do a core XY like printer you can see all the different mix ups that you can use we've just got a regular core XY but there's XZ y z YX ZX zy all these different crazy configs that you can do but for now this is just a standard core XY set up four core XY all of our end stops are going to be using the minimum plugs just like a standard i3 machine all of the pull-ups and pull-downs can stay the fault no change up needed there for all of the in stop settings I'm gonna leave inverting to false because we are going to use central this homing on the 2209 for X&Y so those have to be false and I'm going to use an inductive probe and it's an NPN sensor but I believe it is normally closed so we're gonna set that to false as well that's the only one I'm not 100% sure about but I think both of these need to be false but we'll test that when we add the probe on our drivers we're just going to uncomment all four of our drivers X Y Z and easy row and we're gonna change them to TMC 22:09 we will be using them in UART mode and then we come down to movement settings we're going to change up a few things here we will be using 16 x microstepping and those are 16 to 100 why to 100 we will set our Z steps - 400 these are 4 start leadscrews TR 8x8 and they do have a belt connecting them but it's a direct drive setup so 400 is still valid 1z motor - screws and again I mentioned I have a knockoff Titan extruder setup I've got my Estep set to 402 these do have to be calibrated depending on what extruder you use but 402 is working good for me now a lot of times on the channel we do with Cartesian I 3 style machines log the Purusha machines they ender 3s and those configurations are pretty much similar when it comes to feed rates and accelerations core XY is going to be just a bit different depending on the core XY setup you have a lot of times you could be moving a whole carriage back and forth when you're moving not just the X part that has the hot end on it and in this case we actually have a direct drive extruder on that carriage as well as moving that bar back and forth so there are some considerations to make there the more or less mass you have the different settings you're gonna have to tweak to get it to work properly so for the SK go we are moving around just a little bit of mass there but I am gonna up the feed rates just a bit remember these are maximums so whatever your slicer sets that's what you're actually printing at these are the maximum allowable feed rate so I'm gonna make X&Y 500 it is important on a core XY machine that these to be the same if you were to ever happen to hit that maximum I'm gonna change Z to 30 with a drop down type of bed this isn't super important but it will let you home and move around a bit faster and my extruder I'm going to take from 25 to a hundred this will allow you to do faster retractions if you'd like to set it that high I usually don't but again it's a maximum then we come down to max acceleration I'm gonna slow these down just a bit from default I'm gonna do X&Y to 2,000 seek an stay a hundred and then I'm going to take e down to 2,000 most of the time on the extruder you're moving in very small increments so you don't have to ramp up a ramp down slowly for acceleration but ten thousand it's kind of a ridiculous number it's not gonna mean a whole lot in the extruder but I'm more comfortable with it at 2,000 remember acceleration if you're going from zero to a hundred this is how fast it will ramp up to get you there and these are default accelerations right here for the whole machine not necessarily when you're printing retracting or traveling those acceleration values are down here this is default acceleration while extruding for print moves and that one I'm gonna make it max 1000 I wanted to accelerate just a little bit slower while it's printing to get that mass up to speed so we don't cause issues then in acceleration while you're doing your retracts I'm gonna limit that to 1500 and same for travel acceleration 1500 non-printing moves so when you're moving from different mechanic systems one to the other you're gonna have to take these into consideration as well as things like jerk and Junction deviation which we're going to set next by default nowadays Marlin does use Junction deviation and we will use that for this config so we'll skip over classic jerk for now and go down to Junction deviation this is something that really should be tuned by looking at the print if you head to this site right here they do a pretty good job of explaining how Junction deviation works they even give you a calculation that you can convert your existing jerk values if you have those dialed in to a Junction deviation value at this point the default setting the zero one three setting is fine by me we can tune that later if we're seeing issues I am going to be using an inductive probe so I am going to use my z minimum probe uses the minimum in stop pins I'm just gonna plug that probe into those pins and it'll power it up and I can trigger the end stop with it you can use whichever probe you wish you can change that up in the pins file and in this configuration I won't need my in stop switch to home the printer I'll just use the probe we are going to be using an inductive probe it's going to be fixed mounted so I'll uncomment this line and then we have to set our nozzle to probe offset that's where your probe is located versus where the nozzle is located you can see the map up here if you're in the back it's a positive if you're on the right it's a positive and we are in the back right with the mount that I created I came up with this very simple mount it's just got a few holes that made up with the holes that are already in the plate on the SK go and you can use a square nut and an M 3 by 10 screw to hold that inductive probe I just mean it so the mount will fit right like this and the probe will ride in the back and not collide with anything also when we are at X&Y home this probe is still on the bed so we can home in the corner we don't have to use safe homing to get to the center I just like homing in the corner better because it seems like it takes a little less time so your mount will go on with these three screws your probe will go down just like that I will leave a link to this in the description below and that puts our probe offset about 59 behind the nozzle in about 17 to the right so back to Marlin so X will go positive 17 Y 59 and we'll set the Z offset after-the-fact minimum probe edge I'm gonna leave that at 10 just to be safe I'm fine with probing speed and all the rest of the defaults let's do jump up multiple probing so we can get a really accurate map let's set it to two moving on to motor direction on this configuration with this board on a core XY machine your X and wider will need to be the same and they're both true in this case so x and y true and my XZ is going to be false that's just based on the motors and the board that you're using again you can always flip the cable or adjust this setting if you'd like to turn the other direction for our current tighten setup I will also set the eater to true we will test all these when the configuration is done just to make sure it's all correct but we can make a pretty good swag at it here for now moving on home direction are all going to be negative one that means at homes in the minimum my bed size is 3 10 by 3 10 my X minimum position is actually just a bit off of the bed at negative 5 and Y is also a bit in front of the bed at negative 20 that's important to set if you're not printing in the center you might want to adjust these you should be able to find a setting that works that get you right in the center of the bet when your print starts this can also be compensated for in the slicer and my maxi height on the SK go is 300 they also do make a 350 version if you need one that's just a bit taller and will keep going we do have a filament run-out sensor so I'm gonna remove this comment we only have one sensor I'm gonna switch inverting to true because it's pretty much just an in stop switch so that should be how it operates and we can leave the default pull up and we don't need to pull down we will use m600 as our default script that we run when we run out of filament that will park the head so we can reload it my filament sensor is actually quite a ways away from the hot end if it were to run out I have it on the side of the machine so I'm gonna allow it to keep printing a certain distance before the run out triggers to get it out of that sensor housing so we'll take the comment off of this filament run out distance and let's set it to 5 millimeters that's more than enough to get it outside the housing but we'll also have a little piece that we can grab onto when we're pulling it out of the extruder you can adjust that based on your printer setup and then we come to bed leveling we are gonna go with bilinear that's what we usually do it's the easiest to set up and on this machine I'm actually going to go with a seven-point grid that's 7 by 7 for a total of 49 it's a good sized bed and it's somewhat thin aluminum it's a three millimeter plate so I want to make sure that I check it as good as I can before each print to make sure that I can use the whole bed area and it's nice and level so let's go with that everything else on here should be just fine default Z safe homing I'm gonna leave that commented out for now but it's going to throw an error and we'll talk more on that in a second when we see that error we can't get around that this means it's not gonna try to home in the center because you have a probe I want it to home over there in the corner at XY home we'll come back to this additional features I am going to enable EEPROM that's how you can store things in EEPROM you don't have to reflash the firmware every time you want to make a change only certain features can be adjusted that way I'm gonna update my filament timpz PLA to 1560 on the bed a BS to 5,100 nozzle park we'll have to take the comment off of this guy because if we want to use our filament sensor and our m600 script you have to be able to park the nozzle I like it to park in the front right corner so I want it to be my x max position all the way to the right minus 10 so 10 away from the maximum position and my Y minimum position positive 10 so all the way in the front minus 10 millimeters 20 millimeters away from your current Z point is fine with me that's enough to get it away from the model that you're printing if it does run out then we get into some LCD settings we do want SD card support this is the SD card that is on the front on your screen I'm going to reverse the encoder direction because I like the menus to go down when I turn right and up when I turn left that's just personally how I like them to function there's a lot of different options in here that you can use I do like individual access homing on the menu so I can just home X Y or Z if I want we will enable the speaker and then we'll select which screen we have this one has the riprap full graphic discount screen that's this guy right here well let's remove the comment and that is everything we need to adjust and configuration dot H of course we might have to come back and do a few tweaks we can move on to configuration underscore ATV dot H we'll save this guy and we'll open up the advanced file the first setting that we come to that I would like to change is how the hot end fan works I like it when the hot end fan doesn't come on until the hot end is at a certain 10th on the SKR boards we can use the second extruder heater plug to achieve this on this particular board we're going to change this to P to underscore 0 4 because that's the second set of extruder heater pens these are located on the back of the board your pin numbers on the SK are 1.4 as well as you can figure it out from the pins file so the extruder fan if you're plugged into those pins it's not going to come on until you reach 50 C and then it'll come on full blast great feature every printer should have it the next thing we come to is home bum I don't have a whole lot of luck using home bump when I do senseless homing I will be using social assuming today so I'm gonna set X + y - 0 SD card connection I'm just gonna use the one on the LCD screen so I don't have to change anything here if you'd like to use the SD card that is located on the board you can switch this to on board if you'd like I am going to enable baby stepping this allows you to adjust your layer height on-the-fly and I like to use it to adjust the Z probe offset I think that's the easiest way to setup ABL I'm also going to enable double-click for Z baby stepping because that way you can hit the knob twice and baby stepping will come up so you can adjust it and I'm gonna take the comment off baby stepping Z probe offset that way we can use it to set our actual offset we don't have to take the additional step and update that as well I am also going to enable linear advance because I think it's a great feature this is linear advanced 1.5 but I'm gonna set the K value by default to 0 I suggest if you're setting a K value you should adjust it for each filament and set those settings in your slicer G code a lot of slicers now have independent filament G code that you can use for each different type of filament then we'll come down to advanced pause you have to have advanced pause if you have a filament sensor and you want to park the nozzle I'm gonna go with the defaults for now I do have a direct drive extruder if I want to unload or load actions to happen differently you can change them in these settings I do like to take the comment off of filament load/unload G codes because that enables you to use em 701 and 702 it also puts those items in the LCD menu so you can just use your knob to load unload filament if you wish then we come down to the stepper section we have our good old 20 209 s so we go to has try Namek the default current and steps everything should be ok I am using 16 x Nicor stepping if you run into false positive with sensorless homing remember you can change the current while homing lowering the current while you home might help that issue it is important to mention that if you're using smart drivers or just a regular driver that has a trim pot where you adjust the current in a core XY configuration X&Y need to be exactly the same if they're not or at least really close to it X&Y can tend to fight each other because essentially their own belt paths that are somewhat playing tug-of-war with each other so if your currents on those two motors aren't very similar you might have problems I'm just leaving these at 800 because with these drivers the current should be fairly consistent between the two but it's just something to look out for if you're setting up core XY we are going to use the quiet mode stealth chop for all the drivers south chop timing I'm going to change this to 24 volts because we're running a 24 volt power supply motor drivers status I'm gonna go ahead and uncomment this because then I can use all of these commands to check out what the driver status might be if I'm having an issue then we come down to central assuming I'm just gonna take the comment off so I can use it 22:09 and 21 30s have a different range of values they use for this sense of this homing so currently I have 21 30s they use a negative 64 to 63 value for some reason the 22 9s use 0 to 255 most of the machines that I've tried to use senseless homing on I usually had to start somewhere around a 64 X&Y it's gonna be different for every printer setup but let's go ahead from 8 let's make these both 60 and we'll see how we do from there this is also a newer feature that I kind of like improve homing reliability I'm gonna take the comment off of that it slows the jerk and acceleration values down so it engages whatever it hits when it does the senseless homing a little softer so you might get more accurate home locations that way so you're not just ramming into the side of the printer full speed when you try to send to this home that's a pretty nice add-on we'll try it in this config and then we'll take off TMC debug so we can get as much information as possible if we have driver issues and that's pretty much it that's all of the different settings that I can think of that we need to adjust for this config I'm sure there'll be things we have to tweak but we can come back and take another stab at it so now let's go ahead and try to build and I'll show you what's gonna happen let's get a platform io we will find our 1769 environment and we'll just hit build and we have failed if you scroll up a bit you see easy safe homing is recommended when homing with a probe enable it or comment out this line to continue this is in the sanity check feature of Marlin this is what keeps you from making silly mistakes or syntax errors but I do 100% not want to home in the center so let's go into sanity check we'll go back to Explorer we'll go in to include sanity check dot H and let's just search for safe underscore homing and we're just gonna comment out this error right here just put two slashes in front of it now always be careful if you're making an adjustment like this you don't want to mess up the body of code this is a pretty safe one because the code is actually suggesting we can do this if we want but just make sure you know what you're doing inside these files and let's go back to platform i/o and let's hit build one more time and now our build runs clean now we have some electronics work we need to do to get running on our new board before we can test our code so let's do that portion now this is the current board by half on the ASX ago you can see my normal wiring problems everything's always a mess but I do want to change this board out so as I'm putting the new board back on I'll show you how everything's going to be configured and before we dive into the electronics let's just talk about core XY for a second I'm not going to dive in too deep here that would be a really long conversation on how this whole thing works but I do want to touch on some things as far as how the motors are configured and how that's going to be configured in the firmware so you're in your typical core XY config what we would like to refer to as the X motor is going to be the one on the left this guy over here depending on your printer setup of course this guy is going to be what we call X and this guy is what we're going to be calling Y and that just refers to them how they're going to be addressed on the board and in the firmware most of the time we like to call this a and we like to call this one B when core XY are concerned because they actually have to move together to move in an x and y pattern and let me just show you what the motors do when we move in certain directions so we're currently at X minimum if we want to go towards X maximum both of the motors a and B are going to turn in a clockwise direction if we want to go back they're going to turn together counterclockwise now if we want to go from minimum Y towards maximum Y as we move back they are going to turn opposite of each other your motor is going to turn clockwise and your B motor is going to turn counterclockwise and that's just reversed if we want to go in the other direction now if we want to go in a 45 degree angle say we're going from X minimum to Y maximum you'll notice only one of the motors turned so to go in that direction I'll try to simulate it the best I can you'll see the B motor doesn't turn at all one more time on the way back it's just the a motor to move in that direction but what if you want to go from x max to y max we'll go over to that corner just the B motor turns to move in that direction so that gives you just a little bit of an idea of how the motors work and how they use this core XY movement to move around most importantly we know that this is the a motor this is the B motor this plugs into the X this plugs into the Y so let's get the initial stuff set up on our SK our turbo board before we install it we got to put our drivers on we're going to be using centralist homing on 22:09 so we do need to add a jumper for UART mode for those we want to cap these guys right here for all the drivers that we're using there's X there's why there's Z and there's e now big tree tech does recommend that you clip the diag pin on any driver you're not using senseless homing on it can interfere with other pins on the board but if you are using it for X&Y like we are you don't need to clip them and you won't be using them for Z and E but as long as you're not using any of these other pins it won't interfere for example if you leave the pin on Z as long as you're not using this power detect pin you should be fine for e if you leave that pin on as long as you're not using ez row for filament run-out you should be fine unfortunately we are using these pins for filament run out so I will have to remove the diag pin off of this driver there are other ways to getting around this like adjusting the firmware pins and I think I will go over that at some point so we don't have to clip the pins because I don't like it any more than you do but we'll load up our drive remember on these guys the potentiometer on top goes on this side it's pretty obvious when you have the diag pins on because they will only fit in these holes and the driver should be all set I'm going to go ahead and install it on the printer then we'll get it all wire it up we'll get our power hooked up here in the top remember on the SKR board these are kind of flip-flopped powers on this side ground is on this side but on the bed it's opposite so power ground on the bed don't get that flip-flop that might be a problem for you the powers on and we'll just kind of work our way around this one does have a fan on it to cool the drivers you probably don't need that with 2209 but more cooling never hurts I just put this in the constant plug right here or how-to in heater cartridge wires will go in these slots right here he0 remember your heater cartridge is not polarized negative or positive does not matter our part cooling fan will go in fan zero which is this one right here then our hot end fan wires will go in he1 that's for a second heater for a second extruder but we're going to use it to control our hot and fan those will be polarized so make sure you have them on the right side this side is gonna be positive this negative moving on we have our extruder motor wire right here that goes down here and we have our hot end thermistor wire which goes right over here on ht0 we will install our bed wires this printer has an SSR it's an AC bed but we control the SSR with the board you do need to make sure you have the right ones on the right lugs they will go in the normal bed plug right here we'll put the positive on this side and the negative on this side just like that we're going to use the en0 plug if you're used to using that as a xmax endstop it's in the same location we're gonna use that right here this is just our filament sensor switch our heat bed thermistor goes right down here in the corner we have our LCD screen connections exp one exp two then we can go ahead and hook up our XY & z motors I'm using this ribbon cable it just kind of groups them up makes a little easier to manage but remember your ex motor we're going to call it your a motor that's the one on the left side of the printer from the front in a standard core XY design that goes on the X plug right there then your B motor or your Y motor goes on the Y plug right there and Z just goes to Z just like that and our added inductor probe over here we're gonna throw on our Z min pins right there and we should be all wired up ready to go back to vyas code I have cabled it up USB to computer I have powered it on let's see if we can upload we are in the LPC 1769 environment let's just hit upload and we have hit an auto detect error on that comport it happens sometimes I'm not exactly sure the configuration on that board so you have two options you can hard set an upload port in your ini file or we can just pull the SD card and load it from our computer which is what I'm gonna do I plugged in my SD card you can also just upload to that device you don't have to go copy that from our bin file unless you just want to if you just hit upload now it should find that SD card as your upload port see it found upload disk F no problem so now we succeeded I can remove that card and load it on the printer and before I power on I'm gonna get it loose adjustment for the Z probe you see me do this dozens of times I'm just kind of loose enough our mount I'm gonna pull the belt so that the nozzle touches the bed slide the zip strip out of the probe push it down and then tighten up my mouth you don't want the nozzle to collide with the bed just be careful you might need to adjust that a little bit up or down depending on your configuration but we'll start there also depending on how your Z n stops which was set up I've got mine on this adjustable screw mount I'm just gonna back the screw off so I don't collide with it any longer the bed should be just a bit higher I just don't want to engage this screw on that switch any longer because we're gonna be using the probe now let's power on and run some tests we've got the Marlins splash screen that's a good sign remember when you first boot up it's always a good idea to reset EEPROM in 502 to load the stored settings five hundred to save and you can take a look make sure all the settings in here look like what you expect the ones we just configured they look good to me let's just do our usual test from pronterface we'll move around a bit we'll try X positive looking good there Oh y+ looks good there too how z+ we're all set there and let's just try to home X remember we haven't adjusted the central is homing it's set to sixty right now but let's see if that's high enough of a sensitivity to stop it so let's just do X and it stopped it crunched just a little bit so maybe a little bit more sensitive but not bad so now let's try Y home Y and we stopped so I'm pretty satisfied with that now we want to be careful when we're adding a probe to any printer and we're trying to home we might not want to do the home all at once we probably just want to bring it up slow and check it with an m1 one nine so let's do that first we'll do an m1 one 9rz min is currently triggered so that's the opposite of the logic that we want so I'm just going to hold some pliers underneath it it's triggered now I can see it on the led we'll hit it again and now it's open so we need to flip-flop that logic so back into vs code that's where you're in stop inverting comes in we'll go to configuration H pull this search for n stop and here's your in stop inverting so on Z well let's change that to true and same for Z min probe and stop they have to be the same change it to true no issue will read upload and try again our upload is complete let's power off power back on and we'll go back to testing we'll connect back up let's run our m1 one nine again now we're open if we test again with a pair of pliers and one one nine we are triggered so the probe logic is working correctly our filament sensor is also open we can stick some filament in there and make sure it's going to trigger correctly it is now triggered and one one nine it's triggered so it's logic is correct as well now let's just bring the bed up slowly until I see the light on the probe you can use m11 9 as well but I do have a light on top of the probe so I'm just going to bring it up it has triggered now I'm going to move the nozzle back just a little bit to make sure it's not going to collide with the bed and there's plenty of clearance the probe has actually already triggered and we're way off the bed so that's a good sign and the probe is still above the nozzle so to low you're offset a bit you can actually raise that probe up or just adjust the offset accordingly but I think we're good here let's go ahead and home all and we have home successfully let's do our g29 this will run our auto bed leveling sequence and are probing failed because the probe actually ran outside of the bed area and that's because the spring steel sheet that I'm using isn't actually as big as the bed area we put in there's a couple of ways you can fix this the easiest way by far is to just adjust your minimum probe edge we'll go back down to the probing section and I'm just gonna bring this up a bit because remember this is around the whole edge of the bed so it's actually gonna squeeze the grid together a bit so let's take it from ten to thirteen we'll go ahead and upload again you can see this time on our seventh probe were inside the bed sheet you and our bed level is complete I'm gonna go ahead and heat up and make sure the fans are working as expected and the fan actually didn't kick on I had the wires flipped so on the hotting fan where I plugged it into he1 it's different from an SK our three to a four I was actually looking at a three when I was wiring the floor so be careful of that I'll leave you a note and while we're heated up let's go ahead and do a test extrude make sure extruder you turning the right direction and it is and we'll m106 make sure the part fans working the part fan is working and our map is kind of all over the place I really don't like the adjustment knobs that came on this printer but I think I have a fix for that so my idea is I have these m3 female standoffs I'm just gonna put those on the existing extrusion and use these for the bed to set on that way it'll be stationary we now have a BL so we shouldn't need to adjust it unless we adjust it with baby stepping and it should hopefully make it just a little bit more consistent the current manual setup that we have now is kind of a tripod there's three of these wing nuts and screws with Springs where you try to adjust it and get it level it's never worked out for me very well so the idea going forward there are holes six holes all around this bed but there's one in each corner and one hole on the corner of the extrusion to line up with the bed so I'm just gonna set the standoff down inside the extrusion and then use an m3 screw from the bottom and a flat from the top so hopefully that'll just keep it stationary in place and solve some of our problems I've got all four of the standoffs on the install went pretty well it looks pretty good now let's go ahead and run our g29 again and see if we can help out our level map any and here's my new map I did make a pretty fairly large hardware's change and it's not completely consistent but at least I don't have a lot of pluses mixed in with my minuses it looks like the front row is a little low back rows a little high there are a few mixed signals in the middle there but nothing that can't handle I might go back and adjust the hardware a bit to try to get it a little better but for now I think we can continue on so I've got the filament loaded I'm just going to prynt now and I'm going to set the probe offset with baby stepping on the LCD so when the print starts I did ad g29 to the start G code we'll have to home wait for G 29 to run then we can set that offset so we're often printing and we are way too far away from the bed our current is the offset is set to zero so we're gonna have to dial that down but with baby stepping I can just double-click the LCD and I can start rolling that down until I think it looks good and I ended up with an offset of negative one point 663 that gives me a pretty good first layer in my opinion so we can just click that and you can either save it here in EEPROM just click go to configuration and scroll all the way to the bottom and hit store settings if you head back to pronterface and 5:03 your m8 51 right here now says z- 1.6 6 so we should be all set up ready to go and now our marlin core XY config is complete and we even did a few upgrades to my sk go that in my opinion will make it just a little bit more user friendly there will be all the information linked in the description below including the parts that I created and this config hopefully you found this helpful if you did please consider giving it a thumbs up or subscribing to my channel if not leave your thoughts in the comments below and as always thanks for watching

Channel: Chris Riley

Views: 33,697

Keywords: 3D, printer, Printing, 3D Printing, 3D Printer, ChrisBasement, ChrissBasement, Chris'sBasement, Chris Basement, Chriss Basement, Chris's Basement, ChrisRiley, Chris Riley, benchy, 3dbenchy, 3d, corexy, core xy, marlin, 2.0, marlin 2.0, ABL, SKGO, Seckit, Marlin config, vscode

Id: tK_YqSbDpZ4

Length: 38min 57sec (2337 seconds)

Published: Wed May 27 2020