Bench Shear & Universal Vise

really don't don't get out of your chair no no I got this covered I can handle this I insist on totally under control I know I owe you a follow-up to the gears video I promise that'll be next after all I still want to build that thing but frankly it's been way too cold to be actually using my brain I'm having trouble functioning down here not like it's too cold I'm not in the mood I'm having trouble functioning like biologically I do have a space heater in here in fact I'm literally sitting on it I'm not quite sure who's keeping her warm craziest thing happened after that gear video I must have accidentally left my 3d copier on my wallet it's been duplicating the cash I had in there every hour for the past week anyway long story I ended up with an extra four dollars I didn't know I had between that and both the kids piggy banks I went out and did some shopping this might not be super exciting if you wanted to skip this video I wouldn't be upset but I've got to get this stuff cleaned up and off the floor before I trip over it for the 15th time and break something important what I'm really excited about is this Universal vise I've always wanted one of these things this over here is a bench here if it still works it should be a handy addition let's tear into these one at a time a bench here is nothing more than a fun sized version of one of these it's a giant pair of scissors for cutting metal and it's meant to be bolted down to a bench kind of like this one don't you just love it when a plan comes together I personally were to lay out my hard copied cash for a bench here it probably wouldn't be this style I'd love a throat list year or maybe a rotary for cutting curves you know in fact a rotary shear might make for a great project but I got this thing for next to nothing so here it is and it doesn't appear to have much really if any use on it at all I'm going to break it down just to give it a good cleaning and a once-over it is missing its hold down the foot that keeps material from rolling up parallel to the blades the foot is meant to keep this kind of thing from happening the material picking up and getting in between the blades I'm sure we've probably all had that happen before with dull scissors the stroke marks you see here kind of a swiped off clean area I did that I tried it when I got home but it took like a two-foot cheater bar on a three foot cheater bar just to break the thing loose this things either never been used or it hasn't been used in a very very long time okay give me just a minute to take this thing apart and there it is I was all amped up for a fight but this thing came apart pretty easy now I feel kind of silly having wasted five minutes yelling to myself in the mirror and slapping myself in the face this thing has no makers mark on it no tags no country of origin and I was pretty sure it was a classic low-cost cheer you see everywhere these days but the more I tripped over this thing the more futile attempts I made it picking it up and thrown it across the room in a fit of rage the more I started to notice about it first thing is the frame isn't welded it's a single piece that has a pressed and machined offset that's not cheap to do typically the ones that you see these days I think anyway are either bolted plates or welded to give it it's offset second since this thing is missing its foot and I'm gonna have to build one I went to find a bolt to fit that threaded hole and so far I haven't been able to identify that thread it's somewhere in the half-inch 12 millimeter range I mean that's approximately the nominal size but neither of those standard fasteners work threads don't appear to be damaged and I can't really get a good read with my thread gauge if I use that hole I'm gonna have to drill it out and tap it to a standard size alright so this thing has never been used or if it has been used it's been used properly and come on now really what are the hot that was 40 inches of weld a little bit less I didn't do a continuous on the inside at about normal speed normal pace a little bit of cleaning pick up some more filler continue welding reposition etc and I've been keeping track the watercooler started at 15 degrees and when I just turned it off this thing is still smoking hot the temperature controller has shown 22 degrees that was 220 amps the entire time I just floored it this is 3/4 inch plate now that the cup is pretty toasty the torch on the other hand well it's 22 degrees you know one of the things I always wish I'd learned how to do how to just let paint dry now this movable blade used to just run up against the frame up against that paint it hinges on a shoulder bolt but the shoulder on the bolt doesn't make it through the other side if I tighten this too much I'm driving the blade up against the painted frame not sure if this is gonna work but I'm just gonna throw in a very thin Shin the very thin washer that would keep it off the frame but I don't know if I have the clearance between the blades to actually do that well it's cutting the top blade now has space back here to sort of deflect out of the way which is probably also bad all the fasteners go into tapped holes and there's a jamb nut in the back that's how you set the tolerance or the gaps between these parts this weren't here and you just tighten this shoulder bolt down well you wouldn't be able to move the lever back that office midge I can lock that joint in position again leaving some amount of gap between the moving parts and this this is gonna be tedious you know I'm really liking this color this is called oh let me grab the can what I should have made the weld cart gray it's nice I'll have to remember that for next time so I had to take that shim out I think was only seven maybe eight thou but as I've been snugging up all of the fasteners the blades started to eat themselves that's quite a tight fit for a pressed piece of plate now this is 38 gauge typing paper not to be confused with printer paper so the shear appears to be sharp no dull spots along the length I don't see any tearing or ripping I don't know how good of a test this is but we'll try it in a minute with some sheet metal now what you saw me add earlier this reinforcement across the top and back I don't think was probably strictly necessary heck I don't even know if it was a good idea the intention there was to give a little bit more torsional rigidity to the frame I think it's pretty darn beefy as it is but if you push the capacity or you tend to cut more towards the front and the back the forces are really really high so the tendency for the blades to sort of separate is still there of course that's not a problem if you stay within the capacity of the bench here it shouldn't be a problem but I know me sooner or later I'm gonna put something in here I wish I didn't and here's hoping that doesn't end up taking some ironic twist and that thing ends up being my fingers anyway the only problem I think I could foresee is that I've now blocked the back this isn't technically I don't believe a throw this year but I bet with thin stock let me back up throw the shear means that there's effectively no throat at the back there's nothing to stop a longer piece of sheet metal from being cut like you could put a full-sized sheet metal in theory in a throat listen of these and just keep walking it through until you've cut through the whole thing if that were possible here originally it's not possible now because it would run into this support at the back I don't think this year could have done that anyway maybe four really thin stock you could sort of bend out of the way like really open it up as you're exiting out the back of this year but I'm not too worried about that I've got other ways to cut big pieces of thin sheet metal I also made this foot for lack of a better name maybe it's a hold down and I've got this block that takes a thread and fastener to hold this in place we'll see this in action shortly but first let me clear off some bench space and find a place to mount this thing I've drilled and tapped my bench again these are bench mount shears and although it probably not strictly need be a bench you do need to put them on something heavy and solid I guess it depends on what you thin copper is probably a different story than eighth inch mild steel but generally speaking rock solid mounting makes for better times for rusty nails hammered over into an old log probably won't do it unless that log still has roots and is still planted in the ground I'm installed on the far end of my bench this is where my benders live I think I still have clearance for the hospital on but I guess time will tell I dug up some cut-offs I've got 18 gauge aluminum it's about a millimeter some 16 gauge steel one and a half millimeters and some 16 gauge stainless again about one and a half millimeters the aluminum I'm hoping should be no problem at all nice clean straight cut no burr to try the steel significantly more effort but still good 16 gauge stainless a lot more force as you'd expect but still a very clean cut no real burr to speak of no blood so I think that's it for the shear I'm not exactly sure what capacity this thing is but I don't know if I really want to push my luck I'm sure I will in time though again most what I do is small so for sheet metal instead of sweating through hand shears making a lot of racket with the angle grinder this thing should be a lot faster and more convenient you know square up little pieces take them to size that sort of stuff what might be nice is a small little table here with a fence at the back to help keep the cuts square and for now I can work to scribe lines but with a backstop squared to the fixed blade well it would be a dream squaring up small parts like this one last thing I think I'm gonna do before I walk away I'd like to cross drill this somewhere maybe through the handle for a pin something to lock out this year I've got kids with little fingers so this is a universal vice my apologies if I already said that but feels like I'm dreaming I'm not gonna tell you what I paid for this last thing I want is everyone unsubscribing I was actually looking through piles of grinder parts like grinder stuff and accessories I was looking for some centers when this came out of nowhere I assumed it was used on a grinder don't know for sure but that's likely where I'll use it in fact it's been quite some time I've been window shopping for a universal grinding vise looks just like one of these except they usually have a clamping block on the top instead of a full-blown vise they're all over a bay and char's sells them for about a hundred bucks I think these are adjustable as you might guess in three axes if it fits on my grinder it should be a lot more convenient for grinding tooling like lay their shape or tooling or whatever it's got the vise I bet this thing could stand up to some light milling all the connections feel like they move pretty good the vise itself's a little bit gummed up so same drill here gonna break it down clean it up the fits are absolutely spectacular it's cast iron and it's got that four hundred year old oil smell I should probably be using a brass hammer this thing's got to be 200 years old at least all right that cleaned up pretty nice I could have probably done a little bit more but I'm happy with where it is that was basically all engine cleaner a wire brush and some steel wool the scales I did hit on the buffing wheel they almost look chrome-plated and with all the dirty wax from the buffing wheel packed into the divisions they're really nice to read is crisp and easy to see in this position the vise stands at seven inches tall that's almost a hundred and eighty millimeters and that's a nice size for my mill and my grinder the jaws are four inches 100 millimeter and it opens to a smidge over to or about 50 I think I made a measured two and a quarter so 60 millimeters maybe each axis is labeled to 90 degrees in two directions I'll have to check but I would imagine the zero Degree reference would be the key in the bottom we saw earlier potentially while I was taking this thing apart so the key locks into the T slots of the machine at least on the mill that sets the zero reference and then all the other angles would kind of build off of that without that key or a reference for those scales those divisions would be close to useless like it's a step removed from say just a swivel I swear you could swing it to zero and sweep the fixed draw parallel to the machine this in contrast has so many degrees of freedom it would just be a lot harder to do if not impossible and in the same vein setting one of these up can be a bit of a brain bender I guess any time you're setting up compound angles it can get a little tricky but where say compound sine table isn't needed like a 90 percent of what I do this thing should be really convenient and a ton faster I'm sure we'll be seeing this pop up a lot alright that's it for this video thanks for watching

Channel: This Old Tony

Views: 774,215

Rating: 4.9554291 out of 5

Keywords: bench shear, metal shear, universal vise

Id: fW_GJ-mC54E

Length: 15min 48sec (948 seconds)

Published: Sun Jan 14 2018

Reddit Comments

[u/C6H12O4]

That guy can fucking weld.

[u/rotarypower101]

One of my favorites!

Anyone have any recommendations on similar content that is both interesting and informative along these lines that perhaps most do not know about?

[u/N5tp4nts]

I wish he would do YouTube full time.