Baume & Mercier Watch Service

hello and welcome to another episode of my retro watches my name is mike and on the bench in front of us today we have an interesting watch with an interesting name for an englishman like me who can't speak any languages so i'll try and pronounce it as best i can which is boom mercier so my apologies if my french is terrible or my pronunciation is terrible but that's the best i can kind of do so this watch was sent to me by a friend of mine a friend called geno and as you can see it's a lovely looking vintage watch has um aged on the dial and it's also got a bit of water staining certainly up in the corner up here but it is not running at all we can wind this watch and it doesn't do anything we can pull the crown turn the hands all that works but it will not run so the uh the mission on this one really is to just see if a simple service is going to fix it or if we just strip it down perhaps we might find what the problem is i'm hoping it's not really a part i'm hoping it's just jammed up with some gunk or some debris or detritus so without further ado we'll try and take it apart and have a better look at it so if we turn the watch over have a look at the case back it's got a lot of dents in it i don't know how that could have happened to be honest with you i'm not sure if it comes out in the light or not uh what's also very interesting it's got the original strap i'm assuming this is the original strap for the watch and yes it has been worn but it's certainly been sitting a long time you can see where that's been for decades by the looks of things so it hasn't been worn much or perhaps it hasn't it's had a replacement strap of the same brand who knows but we'll take the case back off i've already loosened it of course just to make things a bit easier here we have the movement and i don't know what to say i've not seen one like this and i know through uh a previous examination or a quick examination that it's a felsen movement i can't read the number on camera here but i'm sure we'll get to that later on so the first thing i want to do is but i wanted to get out of the case but looking at this rotor i'd rather try and remove the rotor now before i decase it it makes things a little bit easier and the way to do it on here is a setup that i have never seen before but don't forget certainly if you're new to the channel that i am just a hobbyist this is not a profession i just like to play with watches and at the moment on a little bit of a campaign into the swiss movements and trying to learn a little bit more about those but uh so i noticed that it had this like little arrow here and there is a little lever um and i'm assuming because i don't know yet that i have to push this lever i'm having to use some quite fine tweezers there so that sort of move that and then i'm assuming yeah there we go that was going to lift off so that's a really interesting feature i've not seen that before i don't know if my camera can focus on this or not doesn't look like it wants to so yeah that's uh i don't think i'll be taking that part apart i think i'll just clean it so now that's off we can have a little bit of a look into the movement and i think what we'll do is we'll put it on the microscope and have a look really close up so here we go let's have a little uh close-up view see what we can see anything obvious like i say i've not really looked at this at all so and i'm trying to keep it in focus at the same time which is not doing very well is it so i just wanted to sort of examine yeah absolutely there's a great big hair already it's a bit of grease i was scoring to that wheel there this cover plate of course for all the automatic works is really hampering our view somewhat and so is my coordination because i can't seem to find here we go so here's the the balance this is something we definitely want to be looking at the hairspring looks pretty good from what i can see there doesn't look like it's out of shape i can't really can we see down into the pallet fork so again i can just see the point for jewel there maybe there's some more hair stuck down there and then that's the all-important look so it's a felsen movement a one five six zero okay well it doesn't look like to be much to be seen here after all so i will uh carry on with the strip down so i'll just uh wind the hands on i'll just put them something like that so they're pretty close together makes it easier for when i need to remove them and then i need to get the stem out and there's a stem i'm hoping that's the stem release screw and now i'll remove the hands and i'm using horotec 2.5 mil hand removing tools absolutely brilliant best investment ever and the only hand removing tools you will ever need in my opinion so there we are those are off okay the dial is now off and we can start seeing the inner workings of the dial side so we just got the keyless works here and i'm just having a quick look to familiarize myself okay so let's try stripping it i do notice it says here drp usa and a patent i'm not sure what that is or what if that is an american connection in any way because i know that this manufacturer or i believe at least this manufacturer was swiss so we just moved the our wheel there it's a nice movement we've got the dire shock or the um ankle block should i say and some of the jewels around it looks quite a pretty thing and we're going to start off if i can find the right size screwdriver and we're just going to disassemble all of the keyless works here and this part here is a setting lever spring always sometimes a bit nervous removing those because you've always got a spring here for the yoke now that's interesting the minute wheel is quite tight but rodico always wins that battle although this one's putting up a bit of a fight there we go so we need to deal with that spring and the way i like to do these is get a bit of peg wood sure you've got a hold of it so it's not going to fly and then you can usually just disengage them it's a bit of a long spring this one and there we go and that way you don't lose it then the yoke and my guess is the setting lever well it is it's already controlled by a screwdriver's eyes i've already undone that once so we have the clutch and somewhere in there is the winding pinion there it is so other than the canon pinion we're almost there i don't know if it's going to work but i'm going to try and remove the canon pinion using my hand removing tool there we are and we'll get the uh the setting lever out a little bit later on but there we go that is the dial side done i keep thinking i can see it ticking through the holes there but it's just the uh the balance moves when i move the movement so we'll turn it over and we'll attempt the other side now right okay so this is where things could get a little bit more tricky uh certainly with the automatic works on here i'm not familiar with this setup at all so when we remove this cover you'd have a good look at where the parts are in their positions i'm just going to swing the balance as you can see it swings nice and freely so that's not snarled up at all and with that i'm also going to remove it it's always wise to move remove the balance early such a fragile part easily damaged not easily replaced and if you damage the hairspring which is in there excuse me they are really really difficult to fix i certainly aren't very good at trying to do any work on those okay with the balance nicely tucked away you can just see if i just tap the pilot fork there is zero power coming through the train whatsoever that could mean anything right now so the moment of truth will be to remove this top cover to start with i hope there's no tricky little springs under here that's going to catch me out and that seems to be on quite tight i'm just curious just to see if there's anything i've missed i certainly don't want to force anything there we go all right that looks quite complicated there's a little lever point here to get that cover off let me turn right around so i can see it a bit better so this is a really interesting setup and a definitely a first for me we've got a very delicate little spring there um i'm not quite sure what that is for yet obviously these are the bi-directional or i'm assuming they're the bi-directional winders for the rotor so it will wind the spring in any direction and but the rest of it i'm a little bit of a loss obviously we've got this little part here which is attached to a little pinion under there um i was wondering whether this actually could be the click but i don't think it can be i don't know so this is going to be fun and it shows my amateur skills all that now that was that was only just in there so it's what to try and remove next so if we can try and get these wheels out okay so the opinion there comes away with it i'm not sure whether it's supposed to do that or not and then there we have it okay i just had a quick look off camera to familiarize myself um so i'm gonna remove these three screws here i'm not quite sure what this plate is for and then of course this whole bridge will come off i'm assuming from these larger screws there certainly very small screws these ones extremely easy to lose but i'm enjoying my um exploration into uh the swiss movements i've been stuck on seiko for so long but pushing myself into these every one i do is a new movement and that's becoming quite interesting certainly this one is different to anything i've seen before so much so i'm struggling with this screw this is one of those sort of plates that you do wonder whether you could leave intact and get away with it in cleaning but obviously not and there we go you see there's a dual underneath so and you won't be able to see that because i don't i think the focus is off there we go i don't think it's going to work there's actually some wet oil underneath there which is a bit surprising for me um that well i say it's surprising it has got two service marks in the uh case back so it has been done at some point but i'm still none the wiser as to why there is no power getting through and all this just look solid to be honest so quite a interesting and complicated movement right we'll try and remove these screws and get out this cover plate okay that's interesting it's got a wheel underneath there again plenty of what looks like oil so i will remove that when i clean let's see if we can remove some of the train definitely a very interesting barrel have the click just here and i'm a bit perplexed at this moment in time how i'm going to undo that and where it's spring is let me have a closer look okay i couldn't see it from where i was but when i've looked at it closer to my eye there's a screw here there's the spring which holds the click so that's quite interesting so i'm gonna i think just try and unscrew it and hope for the best really i really hope that nothing's gonna go flying i don't think it will but you never know with these things and damage you heard that i really made a cardinal sin there so i hadn't let the spring down although i'm not sure how i could have done that with all the automatic works in the way and of course the mainspring is just unwound i heard it and i'm sure you did too fortunately it doesn't look like it's done anything any damage to anything and these two very small parts didn't fly away so i think the watch gods were at least on my side for once on that one um now i'm still a bit stuck i'm going to remove the rest of this click spring and away so what you always get with me is you see my mistakes as they happen and just like that then when i've let the screw go under the movement holder somewhere there we go that's become quite a tricky movement and uh it's still being difficult now because i'm not sure how to remove the barrel yet i'm guessing i've got to take all this off here so we'll just get rid of the pallet fork keep them safe and of course escape wheel there really it's not going my way is it there we are i always want to be a little bit careful because you can quite easily snap the pivots of these things but i'm lucky i've got away with it so we just need to figure out this barrel setup i think i'm going to try and take these big screws out before i look at that little thing there and throughout all of this i still have no idea what was not making it run i will have to inspect the parts off camera make sure they all look right and there's no teeth missing but so far there's been nothing obvious that i've seen maybe you guys have seen something on camera but all we can hope for now is to clean them clean the parts and try and assemble as best i can see if we can get it going again so i'm not sure i was going to say i'm not sure how to get that out because i don't want to go anywhere near the center wheel but it seems like it wants to come out and rodico might help me or it might not it seems to be catching on ah there we go right the barrel barrel is finally out again let's just try and switch off the autofocus thing here's an interesting barrel not one i've seen before i'm guessing i was going to say that comes off but the moment i've moved that i can see the mainspring underneath it so ah i might have to do a bit of googling before i attempt anything in there so we'll try and get this out now that really is really is stuck on its post right and now i'm making the right hash of things and this is this is where you see the amateur in myself here we go so we can remove that bridge and then we've got the second hand um i don't know what you call it staff which we'll be very careful with and now we can remove the center wheel so there we go folks that is the strip now complete okay there's a couple of bits i need to look at like the main spring and there was another little wheel on the main bridge as well just something to do with the winding mechanism i think oh and of course we have the screw here which i'll undo which will take off the um setting lever so at this point in all my videos i'd normally be saying let's cut to the cleaning but unfortunately i can't on this occasion because the bren rate well if you if you're regular to the channel you may have seen my bren ray antique watch cleaning machine that i like to use it's a little interlude break between the stripping down and rebuilding and it's broken the motor has burnt out on it believe it or not and i've having to have it rewound at a local company at quite a lot of expense as well unfortunately but it's getting done because i think if i can get it fixed it'll probably last quite a few years to come so for now this will have to be washed in the ultrasonics and that does not make for a good video so we'll conclude this bit here now and the next bit you'll see hopefully is the rebuild all right so now it is time for the build i've completely cleaned all of the parts um in the slow method of my old ultrasonic so it takes a while and i'm now rebuilding probably about a week later as well to add insult to injury because i've now got to try and remember where everything goes so here we go now i did examine all the parts on the microscope and i couldn't really see anything that was wrong so i'm literally just going to try and rebuild it see if we can get it running from that and hope that that's all it was going to take to fix this watch it's about time i had a little bit of luck because recent builds on and off camera have not been so fruitful uh with their uh easability should we say of trying to rebuild so i'm going to be first of all because i've got no manual i can only go on my gut instinct of where to oil and the center wheel doesn't have any uh dual bearing at all so i'm just gonna put a little bit of d5 it's a bit of a thicker oil but um that's my reasoning put a bit of that there in that hole whoops so we can get the center wheel in position now i've also cheated just a little bit because if you remember that little click spring i've decided to fit that already off camera i've got yet to fit the bit that goes there the actual lever itself but this little spring was quite a tricky little fella so rather than suffer that i've done it like i say off camera i've also done the same with a satin lever as well hopefully it makes the video a little bit quicker and easier to follow so i'm now going to put the barrel in and i'm going to put some mobius this is not mobius sorry this is mollycoat dx grease just going to put a bit of that in the hole and introduce the barrel now the barrel again sorry i've done this off camera and probably to some of your annoyance but it was a real actually now regretting fitting that part there we go um the barrel was a real killer because the actual lid is also the ratchet wheel to wind the spring so it's all sort of integrated it was a bit of a problem took me a while to get it off and even longer to get it on and engaged so showing my uh true skills off camera rather than on camera here so now that's in place we had the uh bridge and that went across here and in the disassembly part of the video it had this little cap on here which i took off because i figured there would be a jewel here uh but rather strangely there's not and um so i'm not too sure what that cap is for other than perhaps acting as a bit of a bush for once we put the uh the second hand i never know what you call it but the secondhand staff that fits in that hole so part of me is tempted to put a bit of oil in there i don't know why but that's what i'm going to do all the same so we'll put a bit of 9010 just a spot and then we can offer up the part which is quite a delicate little thing and it's now the wrong way around there's that little cutout it's like i say it's such a fiddle let's just see if we can offer it up a bit easier with some roti coke okay there we are and it's secured with a minuscule screw okay now that's in double check in the barrels engaged with the center wheel and then we have that part there and again from my seco experience i always like to put just a little bit of oil just there and that's kind of where it comes out of the canon pinion and i'll just put a little bit too much there and it's got stuck so i just got to fit the two screws and then we can put the train of wheels in so now i'm going to try to fit this click part and it would fall through the only hole this is a real delicate little thing as you can tell i'm hoping just to get it in and lined up and typically that spring is now causing me some grief to get it into position i was really hoping just to slide that in let's just try if we drop the screw in i'll be halfway home okay screw is in that's definitely got some spring to it you can see it's pinching and binding into the teeth there it's just strange because i looked at this screw before it's got a domed head and it's unlike all of the other ones in the movement which suggests to me that it's not actually the right screw for that hole so there is a suspicion there that um somebody's replaced that at some point however let's just continue so we now need to put the train of wheels in we've got the escape and then it's rather interesting sort of like double wheel and it's going to be a bit more tricky i think to get into place i've got to kind of thread it through here and then there we go so they are all lined up and now it's time for the train bridge so here is the train bridge and the uh it's like an inverted crown wheel goes there i didn't take it off on strip down um but i did afterwards for cleaning it's going to put a bit of d5 there high friction point and then we can offer the wheel up and i can already see there's a problem oh right okay so here's the screw now normally with these crown wheels you'd have a washer that fits over that post and then when you tighten the screw up obviously the wheel can continue to go round and the washer is missing now i don't actually recall removing that um on disassembly and i didn't take any photos and i didn't do it on camera so oh god well here for a start this is a lesson for you guys anyone out there getting into this make sure that you take as many photos as possible i'm now going to have to search all the cleaning fluids everything everywhere i've kept these parts to see if i can find that of course i don't know if it was even missing or not i do remember this recess funny enough and i would have assumed that that would actually go the other way to fit over the washer so i might be searching now for ages for absolutely nothing because i don't even have the part here to start with who knows so i'll be back in just a second well here we are half an hour later for me uh probably a couple of seconds for you guys and i can't find the part anywhere i've been inside my cleaning fluid jars with a magnet i've searched everything and it's not lying where i would hope it would have been so i can either conclude that either i've lost it completely somewhere or that it wasn't even there to begin with now i'm going to nip up the screw but i know my gut instinct is telling me that this is all gonna be in vain so there we have it the screws tightened and yeah we're gonna have a lot of play look now that isn't natural the there's a winding pin in here so when you turn the crown it would wind and it would wind sorry wind this this gear like this and then that then winds the barrel in turn so um with it being a bit wobbly i'm not sure it's probably bind rather than actually turn properly there's nothing i can do and for the sake of the video certainly right now let's continue i'll try and fit the train wheel bridge now and we'll just have to keep our fingers crossed deep down i'm going to be kicking myself all the way through this now but hey hopefully it's a bit of entertainment for you guys who knows so this trainwell bridge i'm expecting to be a little bit fiddly quite a lot to line up in one go and i've one of the one of the wheels is out and i really can't tell from where i'm sitting i'm not going to chance it i'm just going to do it on the microscope sorry guys okay so that's the train bridge on sorry about that i had to put it on the microsoft really want to break a pivot and it was this fourth wheel or that double wheel uh pivot that wasn't sitting in its jewel there so now they're in you can see if i move the barrel that hopefully you can see that some of the wheels are turning there but i've also noticed as well as i was questioning the little domed screw for the click but the way it sits on this bridge i think is pretty clear that it's actually the right screw after all so there we are learning all the time so i think the plan now really uh will be to um perhaps flip it over put the keyless works in and then we can come back and try and get the pallet fork in get the balance on and at least see if we can wind it okay here we go with the keyless works so i've got the wine and pinion i've already pre-greased the casserations on that so that slots in there nice and easily let me pop in the clutch and at this point i will try to thread in the stem there we go i'm just trying to keep that um that keeps them in position should i say and then i want the yolk i'm just checking at the moment that that yoke i think i've got it the wrong way around uh yeah i've just turned it around and now you can see it's biting on the clutch there no problem at all and just where these two meet i'm going to give it a bit of grease working completely blind of course i've got no service sheet on this or anything okay now it's going to be the um little pinion that drives the wheels for changing the time and then we need the yoke spring and hopefully this isn't going to be too tricky should just get it lined up hold it in place with the peg wood and there we have that in i'm there going to oil 901 9010 for there and just change my oiler a touch of d5 for the canon opinion so the canon pinion's fitted just drop in the minute wheel and that's all so i can fit the little cover that was on it just kind of holds everything in place it goes there like that two little screws which i'll tighten up off the camera and then i need to tighten up the uh setting lever screw as well here and i'm running my head with myself here completely because i haven't fitted the yoke what an idiot in my defense it is now quite late at night and uh maybe i'm losing my concentration a little bit so perhaps i'm going to finish these bits and come back to this video in the morning when i'm feeling a little bit fresher of course i'm making a real hash of things like i keep saying you see all the mistakes as they happen and hopefully you can have a little giggle at it and now we can fit that cover again okay so the screws are all in the yolk is in place i've actually put a little bit of grease on the yoke here as well so it's set in positions and in many respects this is going to be the moment of truth hopefully you can hear that that is definitely winding let me see the wheels going around that's a pretty good sign it doesn't feel like it's catching or anything okay then the main thing will be when it's under tension so i do need to get the pallet fork in there and lock that into position and then it'll actually hold some wide or hopefully it'll hold some wine so of course that's what i'm gonna fit next so i nearly always fit pallet forks on the microscope but i'm just not set up on it at the moment with a camera and maybe i should be i guess i don't know i think there's that i actually think i've got it upside down which doesn't help does it i really do need to quit while i'm ahead right now it is late as i've said but i'm eager to see if it's going to hold power so i think that's in okay we'll just tighten that up okay it's now going to be time to fit the balance and if you can hear any sort of background noise it's because it's absolutely really really stormy here now and uh there's a lot of rain and a lot of wind so this is going to be the moment of truth and i'm not sure that's in very well and there we go there's a little bit of life i haven't got the uh balance in position yet though yeah and now it is in position the damn thing stopped that's a bit unusual isn't it let's just see let's put the screw in just in case the screw jacks it back up again i've had that before yeah yes so it's obviously just on a little bit of a skew as soon as i type that up that's spinning quite nicely might have a slight low amplitude i don't know at this stage of course we haven't ordered anything which is what we're going to be doing next and again it's winding and it's winding nice so clearly that washer that i thought was missing might actually be deliberate after all because um it doesn't feel wrong at all in the wind so that's great news really really pleased to see this running of course it was dead before when we started and i always get a kick out of it when you see that going because that means that you fixed it really other than just putting the rest of the parts back on and trying to fine-tune it a little bit so without further ado we're going to go to the microscope we're going to start oiling the jewels so i'm going to use 9010 and we'll start with the escape there we'll just move around so i have this one here which is a non-jeweled one and then this for the center wheel now this one is um part of the winding mechanism or the auto wind mechanism so i'll put a little bit of d5 there while i'm at it just in preparation now we have the uh inca block there trying to see if i can get it in focus hoping that's in focus for you because my eyes as i always say are terrible there we are and all i can do really on film for this is take it out i will oil it separately on the bench it's quite an ordeal and i've shown it a few times before but for speed of the video i'll keep it straight forward this time and not film it so just pop it open like that and then i'm going to use a little bit of rod eco too remove it safely and then of course we've got another one of these on the other side as well so there we go so here we are on the dark side and um i've already done the ink block setting there off camera i'm afraid this one here is the we'll leave that alone this one's the escape and i've noticed um i'll just store it first this should have a little cap over the top of it with a little screw that goes in there um that's i'm not too sure what that's for other than potentially trying to keep it clean um or add an extra dual count i'm not sure but it's missing on this one and clearly it's supposed to go there i'm hoping and don't really think that it'll have much difference in its operation because obviously the pivots sit in nicely there and we'll find out soon enough when we put it on the time grapher and again we'll just oil the rest of them here that one didn't oil very well so there we go that is all the jewels done in theory i've got to do the pallet jewels but obviously this thing is running right now and now i've wound it up i'm not sure how to unwind it easily uh without letting the spring go in one go and it's a bit of a fiddle so for the now i'm going to leave them annoyed and we're going to continue on try and put the automatic works on the watch a quick little bit of freehand recording straight onto the time graph this is the trace we're getting so it doesn't look too bad i haven't regulated haven't done anything at all to be honest with you and i don't know it's uh the rate's good the beat error is good i'm not too sure about what the amplitude should be on this one so i'm just going to take it as a win right now of course it might change in positions and i'll find that out really when i uh case the movement but i just thought i want to show you that straight after oiling that that's where we're looking so that is again really really good news for this one okay so let's start with the um automatic works and i've got a slightly different camera angle now because uh in the meantime we're on another day and i've had a tripod arrive in the post so i'm gonna first of all drop that little uh click in this hole or at least i'm going to try there we go then we have this combination of wheels so i've kind of figured out really that this has to be this has to engage with this wheel onto the teeth the spring must hold it there and i'm guessing it's somehow to again hold the tension as the rotors spinning around winding the mainspring so then we've got this one this one's actually hampered by the um balance so i've got to try and see if i can gently persuade that to find its home i don't think it's found it yet there we go right so that's that one in and then the last one that's got a little gear on the underside and that's going to fit in its jewel which is there and then hopefully if i can just sort of nudge these a little bit yeah you can see everything turning and then of course i forgot as i keep forgetting everything by lots of things to put the little cap on which goes there so i'll get that in position and of course i've got three screws so i'll just do those screws off camera and then we'll come back and we'll try and do that horrible looking spring okay that little cap is now on that's the actual post that the rotor will sit on and um we've got to do the spring like i said before but we've also got to put that arm on and um i'm actually finding it quite incredible how some of these automatic um works work the design is quite interesting certainly compared to how seiko simplified it so this little arm here once we've got it in position is will move i guess with the rotor there's a rotor spinning one way that will move across and engage with one of those unidirectional wheels and then if it spins the other it engages with the other one quite ingenious really so there we go that's in position and all that remains now is that spring okay now the more trickier part and that didn't quite work and now it's taken that part underneath the wheel which i don't think is where it's supposed to go although it keeps wanting to go there doesn't it that can't be right sometimes when you think these springs are going to be bad they're just bad because you think they are oh okay there we go it's in position so i need to put that cover on pretty darn quick i'm expecting this to be quite interesting as well there we are that is located i've got three sprays screws to go it went on very easy and if you remember when it came off it came off with a quite a ping so i do contemplate whether some of the problem with it not running to start with was in there so we'll put the screws in and then all we've got to do is put the rotor on so the screws are in and i said i'm gonna put the road on but i'm not i'm going to uh sort the other side out first of all get the dial and the hands on we can put the rotor on when it's in the case it's a bit safer to do so but i'm also gonna just oil quickly the uh the pivots there and i'm gonna all them with a bit of d5 just because again i think they might be a bit higher friction being always in use for the um when the rotors winding them so i'll do that off camera we'll flip it over and then just like i say get the uh get the dial and hands on so and there we go it's ticking again and i absolutely never tire of seeing that it's always more so rewarding to be honest with you certainly when they've not been running there we go it's past the minute hand which is always a bonus because sometimes they do foul so like i say i'll put this in the case now we can get the rotor on and we're near the end last piece in the puzzle and have that strange pin there we go i'm hoping you can hear that but that is definitely winding no problems at all so mission accomplished [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] okay it's now the end of the video and i'm really really disappointed so the watch has been running on my bench for at least 24 hours i've put it on the time grapher now and as you can see the trace is all over the place it's actually keeping pretty good time but i'd like a straighter line than what we're getting at the moment and i can flip it over to um dial up for instance and it's not really going to make much difference at all and i'm at a loss as to what the problem is this problem could be a whole host of things from perhaps just a bit of debris it's managed to get in there when i was building it and there's hampering one of the wheels to something bent maybe even the mainspring who knows it was running better than this originally so this is a problem that sort of growed over the last 24 hours so i am bitterly disappointed but i'm going to end the video on this note because otherwise this video will be extremely long so if you've stuck with me to the end here thank you very very much indeed i do appreciate you guys watching if you like the video definitely give me a thumbs up please because that does help the algorithm and it helps drag more people into my channel and hopefully more and more people getting incentivized into getting into this hobby because that's what my channel is all about so again leave comments below because i will read every one of them and i will try and answer as many as i possibly can don't forget to join the the facebook group retro vintage watches and restorations there's a lot of us in there all watch nerds you can get your daily fixes you can post your watches that you're wearing or you can ask your questions and you'll all be answered it's a great community it spreads all over the world so again thanks for watching this one more coming very soon bye for now

Channel: My Retro Watches

Views: 21,288

Rating: 4.9078107 out of 5

Keywords: mark lovick, watch repair channel, watch repairs, watch service, watch repair, baume et mercier, vintage baume and mercier watch, vintage watch repair, Felsa 1560 movement, nekkid watchmaker, red dead restoration, wristwatch revival, watch restoration, Swiss watch restoration, how to fix a mechanical watch, baume and mercier

Id: 40C0YaZ7_NM

Length: 71min 5sec (4265 seconds)

Published: Mon Dec 28 2020