A Seiko With a Story - Full Service of a 6119C

hello and welcome to my retro watches this episode is a seiko with a story that's right i've got a seiko and it's got a great story to tell before i tell the story i'm going to tell you a little bit about the owner of the watch guy's name is ken smythe he's a british guy and he contacted me because he had a seiko that he needed fixing it was his friends and his friends had sadly uh passed away and he wanted the watch to remember him by so of course i obliged and said yeah of course ken send me the watch i'll fix that for you no problem at all and in doing so we ended up on a telephone call and ken said i've got this other seiko i bought it back in 1970 or 71 when i was in the army and it's got a great story so he told me the story and i thought it was fantastic so i said ken send me the watch i'm going to bring it to youtube i'll tell my audience all about this and of course we'll do a service video on it and see how well we can get it running at the end so of course i'm now going to tell you the story okay back in 1968 which was four years before i was born ken was a young man and he joined the british army and more importantly he joined the royal artillery regiment and he was first sent to a place called devises which is in the uk in wiltshire before being sent to cyprus where he did a stint there and then he was posted to what would have been west germany at the time and in west germany he was stationed with the mobile artillery unit and they consisted of some big guns called m109 howlises now these things to the untrained eye look like a tank because that's what i thought they were and here's a picture of one that ken sent me now and of course you look at it and because i don't know anything about military i said oh that's a tank but of course kent told me whatever you do don't tell anybody it's a tank because it's not and people will know or people in the know will know and they'll correct you this is a mobile artillery unit so this was just basically artillery that was mobile that they could park up and uh fire and these things had i think it was something like 18 kilometer range correct me if i'm wrong and they had an accuracy of about half a meter so that is absolutely truly impressive and the shells i think were 155 mil in diameter so big stuff indeed very very impressive now ken he didn't uh work on the guns themselves he was a regimental surveyor so he would be out in the field uh surveying i presume the land uh where you would station these things and i guess where also you'd be firing them as well a very very important job and of course this was all before the days of gps so everything would have had to have been mapped so you know impressive skills and what an amazing uh job to have had now one day ken was walking past one of these guns and his friend called yorkie he was the driver of one of them and he had his hands in the engine because there was something wrong now normally they would have been fixed uh by the uh another department it would come and fix the issues but apparently the issue was relatively straightforward just needed sort of more hands than just two so ken obliged and the pair of them had their hands in this it's an enclosed engine apparently the engine is a v12 detroit diesel engine and i can only imagine that is one heck of a beast of an engine to drive one of these things because they must weigh a lot so anyway they were there they were this was 1974 he thinks hands in the um the engine bay trying to mess around to fix the problems and ken got his arm stuck and after a while of wriggling arriving he managed to get his arm out and sadly when he pulled out his arm it was missing his beloved seiko five now he'd only bought the seiko five probably two to three years previously with his army salary and uh you know he told me he'd really love that watch it was his favorite watch he'd ever owned and he was pretty uh peed off that uh this thing was now in the bottom of this uh tank uh not tank see i'm saying it again so anyway he the him and yorkie uh spent a good three hours he reckons looking for his watch i didn't want to leave it in there of course and they were under it and they opened the sump plugs to try and get in the bottom fish it out but they just couldn't find it no matter what they did so unfortunately they had to close the engine back up and that was that ken had lost his watch and the the engine had gained one so pretty distort i guess ken must have been really peed off and uh you know just went down as one of those but the story didn't end there because about nine he thinks about nine months to a year later there was a problem with that very same engine and the whole engine had to be removed from the unit and yorkie just happened to be there of course because he was the driver of that uh that vehicle and as they were taking the engine out lo and behold in all of the uh oil dirt and grime and crud at the bottom there was ken's watch and he fished it out and of course it was covered in all this crap you could hardly see it but he washed it in petrol of all things and uh looked at the watch and lo and behold the watch was first of all okay and more importantly it was still running now the rumor is that it was actually still not too far out on time either and he puts that down actually to the fact that these engines cause a lot of vibrations and of course the artillery units are generally on the move every day so these things were always moving around and i guess it is possible that the uh the um the motion of the vehicle and the vibrations of the engine and such like could in theory turn the rotary off to give it just enough power and to keep it going but either way what a story the fact that this very seiko has survived inside an engine like that i mean to make a great strap line wouldn't it you know seiko's built like a tank because they can survive in one now obviously i'm a great big uh seiko fanboy i think many of you know that i did a video a while ago it's not really a proper video but i did a video called my rat watch and that was a absolutely totaled seiko it was wrecked in every sense of the word and i thought for a challenge let's take it apart and see if we can get it going again and i did and it was more just to see just how far you can take these things and for them still to be able to work and keep time and i think this is almost another example the uh the one thing you can say is i guess what it had in its favorites back then it was still relatively new so the gaskets would have still been doing their job correctly certainly the case back gasket and the crown gasket so that must have stopped the ingress of all of that uh horrible engine oil and grease and dirt that sits in these things and didn't permeate into the movement so how about that so look this watch is from august uh 1970. that's when it dates from according to the code on the back we are now in august 2020 this watch is 50 years old to the month that's a bit eerie in itself isn't it so i plan to as always put it on the bench we'll take it apart we'll clean it we'll reassemble it and see how good we can get it running now it is running at the moment but i've not really had a chance to look at it any more than that ken doesn't know if it's had any work on it you can't really remember obviously 40 years of history is a long time he knows he's had a crystal he might have had a more than one crystal and but he can't remember actually having it serviced so we'll have to find that out and take it apart so stay tuned guys possibly this is going to be another long video like most of ours mine have been recently so i hope you enjoy it it is a seiko 6119 i have covered these on the channel before but i think just because of the story it's worth doing it just again so we'll now go on to the bench i'll stop talking and we can start taking the watch apart okay here we go it's your first proper glimpse at the watch after me rabbiting for so long and as you can see there is some damage to the dial a bit of patina and to me that's a moisture that's got underneath the lacquer now um speaking to ken about this he doesn't seem to think that that was like that when it came out of the tank but he doesn't know how it happened either so who knows but maybe we'll find out some clues as we open it up now um as i say i've not done anything with this yet so we'll take the back off and have a look inside now i have loosened it so i can just use my fingers he says there we go and the first glance is it looks like a normal psycho 6119 no surprises looks quite clean actually uh not much where but you would normally see it with the rotor sometimes the rotor rubs around here a bit and that looks pretty good to be honest so let's put it on the time grapher and see what sort of readings we get okay so let's just start the machine up obviously there's the movement and let's see what sort of trace we're going to get there we go well to be honest first glance that doesn't look too bad actually the lines look fairly uh parallel there's a little bit of noise but that could be just me in the background the amplitude is quite low and the beat error is way off now my understanding certainly from speaking to a professional i know is that b terror generally doesn't change it'll only change if uh it's been worked on so there is a good chance perhaps the regulator or the stud have been nudged at some point but anyway this is what we've got to improve uh so let's take it apart and see what we can improve so as per usual for me here we are on the microscope i thought i'd do a scope before we uh take it apart just have a quick look and um okay we're looking at the balance there obviously it's beating away quite nicely but what i can see is sort of dirt congealed oil there certainly in that jewel the balance jewel does look quite dirty as well typical of old oil now what i'm looking for here as well is looking at screws so like this one looking for indications that it's been taken apart and that screw doesn't look like it's been played with at some point some of them look very clean but even that said yeah there's definitely uh definitely somebody's been in here i'll see if i can point out so if you look at the outer edge there and the edge there if you're turning the screw obviously you're pushing power or force that way and that way and that's what you're getting so ken you might not remember but this has definitely been worked on at some point but nevertheless that doesn't matter it's a shame really i'd love to have seen it full of absolute oil i'll be able to fix it that way but that would be much more entertaining for us all however i'm not going to be put off as i say let's take it apart i know this movement like the back of my hand um so it's not going to take too long at all to pull it to bits you okay we'll start off with the calendar works and uh take those off and then we'll turn our attention to the movement itself so first of all we have the usual seiko c-clip and i just like to prize this very gently just to start getting it up if you price this too much it does that where it jumps luckily i can find it easily enough and then we can remove safely the day disc and actually well we know it's in 1970 but i can also tell that this is an early seiko six one one nine six one one nine is one of my favorite movements this is the c version according to the movement itself but you've got metal parts this is normally in the later ones made of plastic uh so to see this is the uh the date wheel isn't that the yeah the date will finger so that's what changes the date over and um it's usually made out of nylon it's had to steal see the steel one is good to see so we'll first of all remove the retaining cover and we have four screws to do so and that was a little bit of a disaster screwdriver slipped a little bit and moved a few of the parts out of the way so we have the day ring the date ring which normally has a little click lever and that's the one that's danced across the other side of my bench so i need to go and find that and here is said spring didn't go too far it's normally sits there and to be fair they they should jump out but they normally don't jump out for me so today is an exception and of course we've got all the train uh motion works here but i'm going to turn my attention first of all to the keyless apart from this little jump in lever here which is for the quick set on the day wheel so we'll remove the setting lever spring two screws and then we have the yoke and the setting lever itself which just levers out like so sometimes they actually get rusted in certain if you've had any water ingress through the crown so then we can pull the crown and stem out remove the clutch he says remove the clutch i can't get hold of my tweezers from this angle there we go okay now the uh the train itself so the the hour wheel will just lift off if that's in the right position the intermediate wheel here it's unusual it looks like a brass colored one i've never seen that color that i've seen again these are normally in nylon and plastic i have seen steel ones but i've never seen one in that car and i've done a lot of these watches so that's actually quite interesting for me uh then we need to remove well here we go is under the telltale sign so here we have this this cover plate holes hold the minute wheel in and it has a screw here and it has a very small screw that goes there that screw is missing so somebody's been in here and um from my perspective it's annoying because okay if it was a hobbyist fine um but if it's a professional and they've lost a screw and they've just not bothered to put it back in again well that's just cheating isn't it so that's not really that's really not really nice uh fortunately i will have a spare in one of my donors i'll just have to find it and we can remove the cover we have the [Music] minute wheel to come out if i can find some ruddy coat the little transmission wheel or drive wheel and then we can remove the date fingers and that is in a little bit tighter than i would expect there we go a little nylon part and then a metal part too and we're nearly done on calendar side uh so we have this spring here which is all part of the quick set mechanism and first of all we need to remove they'll take the tension off it sorry so i'm going to pull that out and just release it that way it's held in by screw over here and i'll just lift out quite easily can opinion i like to grip it and pull it that is the calendar side already uh disassembled now we have the shock jaw for the balance and then we have these things called dire fixes i've done a whole video on these these are something i won't be touching in this video i will be cleaning them and oiling them don't get me wrong but they're an absolute get to fit and quite time consuming so for time being i'm going to leave that in i will eventually remove this as part of my cleaning procedure so we'll flip it over now we'll do the other side okay so normally i'm going to remove the balance first but i've just noticed that i took the dial off and i did not screw the dial feet back in not the dial fix sorry the dart screws there's one here and there's one here now if you don't uh screw them back in and you put it for a watch cleaning machine like i've got or you put it for an ultrasonic they have a tendency to fall out and if they fall out one they're hard to find two they're really hard to fit so good practice is to screw them right back in now obviously am i on camera i do this holding my fingers i shouldn't really be doing that but as i'm going to clean everything i don't think it's too uh important fingerprints right now so we'll put that back into the holder and of course because the balance is an important component of a watch let's get it out the way keep it safe that not doing very well here are we so that see that the screw has fell on on to the balance and stopped it so that was not an impressive move at all now i'm just trying to gently i'm gonna see if i can get it but i'd rather move the balance out but it's not going to come so it's already turning into a bit of a disaster at this point i can see the screw and it is holding everything up there we go and now that will lift out certainly a bit of a heart and mouth um episode right on with the next part so this is the automatic framework they call it uh it's the bit that houses all of the the winding mechanism on a seiko three screws another one that's in really tight to be honest this screw look right to me it's a flat top now you probably can't see that in camera it's very flat and they are normally just slightly rounded so again suspicions that whoever has looked at this has not been as competent as you would like to think they are now in taking this off you have the magic fingers or the poor levers and sometimes they do like to jump there we are we'll remove that as well it's uh two screws there to remove all that but for time being i'll just turn that to one side and we'll press on with the rest of the works now this is quite interesting we've taken the cover off and already i can see lots of strange i'd call it strange dirt that let's just go back to here me personally i wouldn't expect to see sort of dirt around here it's like oil or something to flow perhaps through here definitely definitely strange however we're going to clean it so let's not dwell on it too much so i want to let down any uh power that is in the mainspring and this doesn't always come off on camera but i have to wind the spring a little bit grab hold of the click and then let it down with the screwdriver i'm just trying to angle that so you might be able to see it there's quite a bit of power in there but then once you've done that we can unscrew the ratchet wheel the screws are dancing for me today absolutely running away take the ratchet wheel off and again well that's a bit of wear and a bit of dirt now we can remove the train wheel bridge you can see here the other dire shock for the escape and the center jewel and the third wheel jaw so this is holding by three screws of which this screw that i'm screwing undoing now seem to be not even finger tight likewise with that one that one's got a bit more bite so the bridge i mean i've never known really how tight you should go with screws but i tend to tighten them finger tight and then just give them a little bit of a nudge more i don't think that you need to put maximum power into a screw that you can't move it at all because you do run the risk of tightening things too much at that point but equally too loose there's a good chance plates like this will start to move and you don't want that so train wheel bridge is off and bit of dirt and now we can see the inner workings so remove the train or those the first two should i say the click itself is just held in by a screw can be sometimes for me anyway awkward thing to refit this sometimes you do it straight away other times it refuses to sit there properly and i'm just trying to keep that screw separate because it's normally just a bit shorter than the rest now we can take the barrel out i'll just put that to one side for now then we just got the center wheel bridge that has a flat screw it's the only flat screw that you would see in one of these movements sometimes when you get to this point you see the round and once again for me that's a telltale sign that somebody has put it back and not used the correct screw there we go bridge is off i can remove the escape and then it's just a case of taking the pellet off again both of these screws here i know you can just probably see the back of my hand but not tight at all um so again for me personally and i'm not a pro i'm just complete hobbyist in every shape and form even i'm surprised that um these so many screws are so loose and we'll try and get the there we go sometimes you have to be a little bit careful trying to get the pallet out uh the pinion at the bottom can snap sometimes they do get stuck so if you pull on them too much or you're pulling them and they're not straight you do run the risk of snapping that off so there we go we just take the center wheel out and job is a good one the movement is disassembled quickly put that on the microscope we'll have a quick look and see how clean or dirty that is then i'll open the barrel actually we'll have a quick look inside the barrel before we go to cleaning right so here we are on the main plate and as you can see we have quite a bit of dirt around the jewels as expected there's a hair there and i don't think it's mine uh there's i won't even don't even want to know what that might be and again around the barrel well that's interesting isn't it is is that what i'm looking at i need to use the viewfinder is that wet grease it is look see it's just starting to go off so that's interesting trying to date when this may have been serviced well there's definitely one way to tell isn't that let's find the case back so i'll have a look at that in just a moment but there we go we've seen that side let's just quickly flip it over and have a look at the other for the sake of it i expected around the keyless to see grease and grime [Music] jewel doesn't look too bad dire shock inside there well i can see some gunk that actually doesn't look too bad at all so yeah typical of a watch of this age i think so looking in the case back and i don't know whether this is going to come across on camera but there are definitely some service marks um it really is hard for me to see um here we go so i mean i don't normally make sense of um service marks as in what's actually there certainly if that somebody out there can enlighten me that'd be great but these do look like dates uh which is unusual but 90 and then 91 i can't make that out for with my eyesight from here but clearly either a year or just a few months apart so maybe it went in for something and then it wasn't fit fixed properly so it went back and then there's another scribble over this side and again that doesn't indicate a date to me maybe it does to you guys if it's coming through clear so and also more importantly as well the gasket is missing so that's quite disappointing actually again why would you do something and then not either replace the gasket or at least keep the old one there the case back gasket is the most important sealant you know without that despite how tight you might do it moisture from either your body or the outside air will get in and again that could be so ken for you that could be the reason why your dial is peeling the way it is could be just purely that whoever's been in here perhaps it was in 1990 and that was the last time it was done um they didn't bother to put the seal back on disappointing for seacoa fans out there what's quite interesting it's 1970 and it's water resistant the water resistant came in i think in 1970 it was a 69 was a proof but i think i've got a 1970 somewhere as head waterproof for collectors people like us we like the waterproofs um it's uh they call it the proof watch and that's all it means it's not water resistant it says waterproof which is a bit cooler there's a bit of trivia lastly i've opened the barrel and let's just see if i can get that focusing the barrel the main spring definitely needs a good clean the old oil in there has turned into a black sort of coagulated consistency so we'll take that out and i'll service that separately but there we go guys that is the disassembly of this movement and what i'd like to do now is what i've been doing in my last two videos and that is a little funny montage of the cleaning machine it's a new feature that i've been doing it's a bit of fun i like filming it if you guys think that that's a funny fun part to put in the channel please give me the comments below i'd like to know whether you are enjoying that bit or whether you find it annoying for me it's a case of being you guys been able to take a break really because my videos are so long that perhaps at that point you can go get yourself a cup of tea or a beer or whatever you want so let's go to that now [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] do [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] okay welcome back after that uh little musical interlude there please don't forget to leave a comment if you think i should keep that feature of cleaning or whether i should scrap it i don't want to start annoying you uh the viewers out there if i can help it so okay on with the build of this watch so i'm gonna start really with um well just telling you that i have already done the dire shock here so i've cleaned that and oiled it i will demonstrate it on the balance later on and i've also reassembled the mainspring and barrel just to speed up the video just a little bit okay so we'll start off on the microscope and we're just looking at the center jewel there and i always put a little bit of mobius 9010 on the jewel like so and then we can fit the center wheel so i'm going to try and do a little bit on the microscope here just because it makes it a bit easier because again now the center wheels fitted just going to try and get that into focus for you i just tend to put a little bit again just on this top part just there because of course that is where the um bridge sits and i'll sort of just demonstrate that now try and fit the bridge yeah i wasn't too sure then whether it was fitted so i do need to screw it in but again just for speed again i'm gonna oil just a little tiny bit on this jewel here as well because that is where the fourth wheel will sit a little bit later on there we go testing testing okay so i've now secured it with the screw and i like to just check that the wheel moves nice and freely before carrying on so now i'm happy with that it's the escape and uh by the way that is the dire fixed jewel on the other side and i've just oiled that with my auto oiler as i say before that i've got a video on how to remove those and clean them and the only real way to oil them is using an auto oiler so now i'm going to turn my attention to the barrel arbor where i have got some molle coat dx or i thought i've got some molecule dx and i like to just put a little bit of that actually in the hole itself and then we can drop the barrel in again just make sure it's binding for the center wheel then it's a case of the third wheel which just drops in well he says it just drops in normally does there we go okay then it's the fourth wheel and the fourth wheel likes to have just trying to get hold of it always quite hard to do on camera i can't really get it but i need to put a little bit of mobius there's a little bump on it just there and you put a bit of 9010 and then you can drop it down like so so the next will be the train bridge here's the train bridge uh despite being cleaned it's still got some staining you can kind of see the dire shot here so i would be turning that over i've already done it i have to say here's the auto euler subversion a1 which i've mentioned before it's got like a little needle again this isn't going to focus is it there's a little needle on the end that goes in the hole and you use this plunger to plunge up and it sort of pushes the oil down and puts just a tiny drop in there but enough so with that we then need to fit it so fit in the train bridge can sometimes be a bit of a fiddle i like to just need my peg wood to help me guide it let's try and get it as close as possible to position and there i'm way off [Laughter] and then once you sort of lined up with the screws i just rest my peg whatever so slightly and try and coax the wheels in there we go so as you can see they're all spinning so that point keeping still a little bit of pressure on and i'm gonna get some of the screws in while i can okay now they're in i tend to just like anything tighten them all up at the end and again we can just test that by moving the barrel and they should be moving nice and freely so good job done so far so next is the click and i sometimes wrestle with this this little screw uh i tend to use a bit of peg wood just to try and keep the screw up right as best i can they're either my best friend this group or they're not and today it's sort of playing ball okay so click is in position and then use a bit of d5 mobius before bringing in the ratchet wheel which as you can see hopefully you can see has got a square hole and that's to locate it and secured of course with its screw a little turn of the main spring is enough to see the train runs so we are in business now so the next items to put on of course is the escape and i like to do that on the microscope so we can see the jewel there where the escape has to go [Music] and honestly with a microscope this makes this job so much easier i think i'm just slightly out of focus there trying to do this with just a loop certainly as a beginner this used to be the uh the one job of a watch that i absolutely hated i could i remember i think spending probably an hour once trying to get this into position there we go so we're in okay i've been trying to oil the uh exit jewel on the pallet and uh it's quite difficult for me to do on camera with the light on you don't get a good view but i do the bottom light is too overexposed no light is good so i'm going to try again i've got a bent oiler that i've adapted and the idea is to get it in this hole and then just to touch as you can probably hopefully see there just putting a bit on that surface i don't know whether that came out or not um and then you're supposed to let it run a little bit and then you can do it again so in order to do that of course i now need to fit the balance so if it's in the balance is usually the moment of truth and i like to bring it in now i'm getting my eyes right low because i'm trying to see the bottom pivot to get it in jaw hole and then i can turn it drop it on its post and there we go that's kind of how i do it and of course if you see it running like it is then you can breathe a sigh of relief because at this point it's only going to get better i still remember the first time i took a watch it was actually one of these movements it was a 6119 and it took me days to take it apart and assemble it and it didn't work beforehand i didn't even clean it i just took it apart put it back together and put the balance in and the balance span and i was ecstatic and to be fair i think it's that feeling now of taking something a broken watch and fixing it that i am completely and utterly addicted to so there we go at the moment that looks quite healthy all i need to do now is oil the jewel which i'll try and show you again on the microscope and then we can put on the timer graph see if it's running okay before we continue with the calendar side okay we're looking at the die shock jewel there and i've got it in a little container there's the edge of the container just because i don't like doing this on the microscope i normally do this on my bench but just to sort of illustrate the oil so we are using mobius 9010 and i will attempt to try and get some in there so there is a right no wrong way for these jewels and it's like slightly dished so you want the oil in the middle of the dish so to speak and i need a slightly different angle i think there we go and let's just try and get that in focus for you so kind of that sort of drop and then i just need to turn the uh sorry i was knocking it now so i need to turn this over and put it on top of that excuse the silence but it's quite a tricky maneuver again doing it on the microscope that is and i'm just using my best friend [Music] roddyco okay so once i've got one corner in i can start to manipulate the other prong [Music] and for whatever reason it doesn't want to play poor for me there we go right that's on and good so while i'm on the microscope we will oil the other jewels i've noticed now that the grime that didn't clean off possibly could be scraped off that's a little bit disconcerting to see that now prove that i should have inspected the parts a bit more however we'll just continue on certainly right now that might be something i return to later and clean again so mobius 9010 again i don't like to use too much and just trying to get my bearings down there we are and then we can flip it over and we can do the other side as well okay on the dial side there will be a little bit of oiling and we don't do the escape sorry the escape what am i talking about we don't do the uh pallet fork which is there but a little bit in that one and then i'm gonna because we'll be building this side now i will oil the necessary parts here as well so canon pinion which is this thing i'd like to put a bit of d5 on the side it's quite a high friction point i also put just a drop the d5 on the dual there i always think that helps with the canon pinion and the tightness or the looseness when you're trying to turn the hands i've just probably realized that you might be really out of focus so i do apologize for that and this is the uh where the minute wheel is going to go i'll just put a little drop there and the little driving wheel transmission wheel i like to put a bit on that as well and then lastly where the calendar wheel is going to go okay there we are great okay we're on the time graph and uh now it's kind of the moment of truth so i've set the lift angle to 54.5 which is correct for one of these so let's get going and see what sort of readings we get so insulin we have a nice trace now there we go right so i'm just trying to see if that noise there might be me talking just turn down the sensitivity so we've got minimal rate problems there good amplitude at 224 234 now it's jumped up uh so anything over 200 on these old c codes is brilliant and the beta error just needs a real minor nudge just to bring those two lines together i can't tell whether there is some noise or whether that's just because i'm talking no it does look pretty clean doesn't it i suppose for the age of it i'm very impressed with that it's a lot better than it was already and it will be further tweaked so onwards and upwards we've got a good reading so far don't need to adjust anything too much i'll regulate it when it's in the case so let's build the calendar okay starting the calendar works always a bit of fun let's put the uh clutch in first of all i then want a bit of the molle coat dx which i'm going to put into [Music] the setting lever hole there this is always a prime place that seems to attract rust so i like to protect it as well as giving the setting lever its best chance for good action and then once we're happy with the setting over it's the yoke and then setting leave a spring so the screws are in place not completely tight yet because all i want to do is just need my glasses on i've taken them off i can't see i just need to move the setting lever in to position so it's over that little one there and i also need to put some grease on those as well so i've just greased just where that setting either runs and now i can just drop in the stem oh and i will at this point just put in that little drive wheel and i'm suffering because i haven't got the right magnification and i'm probably off camera as well great and now we have got something out of position here along with the movement i just wanted to come out of the movement holder as you can see i don't rehearse a thing so the stem's not going in the setting lever i think is just got a bit stuck one moment that was completely wrong i just needed to push the crown in a bit harder because now you can see that it's moving to its positions so if you remember the long spring it's the same procedure get it into place drop the screw in once the screws in i just need my better tweezers i can get that i really haven't got this well in the uh to hold it nope one moment again that is the one thing that bugs me about the persian 404 movement holder is sometimes it just doesn't grip when you want it to and even now after just messing with it it's still trying to fight me so i want to bend that spring i've let go too busy talking it's now in position and that is basically part of the mechanism here which is all to do with the quick set onwards and upwards we are going to fit the canon pinion and that will just drop on push down like so minute wheel make sure it's binding with all of the gears calling the drive wheel intermediate wheel our wheel i'm not happy with the our wheel and then we can put the date fingers on and put that anywhere it's got one lump on it at one side the other side has got two lumps the two lumps go down basically so that's the date driving finger and then you put on this one which is the sorry this is the date the other one's the day you always get it mixed up and basically try to put that lump between that v drop in the screw it's a screw with a shoulder this one so it's i think it's the only one in this movement it's got a shoulder on it so easily identifiable if you've got your screws mixed up okay and then i have that little cover that keeps the mini wheel in place if you remember it was missing a screw and of course i've gone and found one from a donut so we can continue on and put in the this is the quick set for the uh day wheel and it's just a lever it rests on there so when you push as you can see it stretches out like so so now we need the uh click for the uh date it's going to go back on its post there and hold it in place pull the spring job done i can now present the date ring and i'm just going to secure it a little bit while i pull up the the click let the click take the uh position and the pressure and then we can bring in the cover that keeps it all in place okay the screws are now fitted and i've decided to go on to my other movement holder losing my temper is not a good thing to be doing when you're building somebody else's watch so we need to bring in well we need to look at this spring here okay because there's a gear on the bottom and that gear is what that interferes with so we place it on the top i use an old oiler a bit of peg wood hold it in place and then through this little access i can push that so it then takes position we can bring in the c-clip c-clip goes on the top it has a chamfered edge the chamfered edge goes down not up i always say that on my second videos because if it goes up you can't get anything underneath it to take it off if you need to service it again and there we have it those are now fitted so i just need to rebuild the automatic framework and we are good to go okay i've rebuilt the um automatic framework it's a bit of a horrible job to do sometimes there's some tiny little screws and i elected this time not to do that as part of the video so with this this is held on by three small screws i like to get one in over here and then if i think it's in enough which i'm pretty confident i'll put a little bit of wind in the mainspring and it should sound like that which means that the poor levers are engaged if they're not it's under the microscope and give them a quick tweak so we'll just put these three screws in and then we're good to go fit in the dial and the hands all right i found it through uh 12 o'clock so the data's just changed and that means we can fit the hands like so there we have it guys hands are back on watch is ticking we know it's running all right now it's just time to put it in the case and give it its grand reveal so so far i hope you've really enjoyed the rebuild of this and hopefully at this point in time this video isn't as long as all the others who knows [Music] [Music] bye [Music] so here we are on the time grapher and just going to start it i've regulated it now so let's see what readings we get and as you can see fairly straight line just creeping a little bit plus uh five seconds or so b error is perfect amplitude is great and of course this is in the dial up position there we go i'll just quickly turn it over to show you dial down i know that's only two positions but it just goes to show that it's running absolutely bang on and lovely even i'm impressed uh with this one fantastic okay guys just a quick uh summary uh first of all sorry if there's been some sound issues during this video i am testing a new microphone it's like a shotgun microphone and it's causing me all kinds of grief because sometimes it records well and other times it records quiet and i'm not exactly great at video editing to sort out the sound however what do you guys think of ken's tank watch i'm gonna call it a tank watch i know i shouldn't um i've actually thoroughly enjoyed it uh there is evidence actually there was evidence in the in the back of the crown and all the surround in the case it was really really full of dirt now of course that does accumulate anyway but i like to think that perhaps that was a bit of a bit of engine crap still loitering around after all this time equally the dial i've looked at the dial a bit closer on the microscope and it's difficult to say why it's it's delaminating the way it is it could be moisture ingress again from the gasket but i still like to think that that was caused by the incident it really would add a bit of charm and to the story of this particular watch i've dressed it with a nice uh brown leather strap for kent that i've bought and typically with this watch like some seikos it is a 90 mil look which is a real pain in the side because there's not so much choice so i bought a 20 mil slice a little bit off the ends just enough to squeeze it in and make it look pretty good so i hope you enjoyed this uh this video it's different that's for certain and i do like the idea of doing a watch for the story and perhaps i might see if i can find some more watches that have got stories and we can tell those and also try and figure out a way to make some of my videos slightly shorter maybe not record every last bit that i do it depends you guys are the viewers you consume what i put out so if you guys enjoy it please let me know that you like the long videos because i'm conscious that an hour or over an hour is far too long so i would be interested to hear from you so with that ken this will be finding its way to you very soon and i really do hope you like it it's been an absolute pleasure to do this for you sir and i'm sure that you're going to get some years more usage out of that and perhaps when it's back on your wrist it'll take you back down memory lane to when you're a young lad how nice is that so please to do that for you mate really really good stuff for everybody else more videos are coming soon i have got an update coming on the zodiac can you believe that that watch has been on my bench for over six months and now is the time to actually finish that video because we've got some wear on it so stay tuned for that one again check out my website check out the page for the tool links if you want to support me you can buy some tools on there and i'll get a little bit of kickback from that uh also please join the facebook group at retro and vintage watches and restorations there's a lot of us in there all watch crazy so come and join the fun why not don't forget to like don't forget to subscribe hit the bell button so you're notified when i put more content on youtube and i will see you very soon in the next one hopefully a bit shorter video thanks thanks a lot bye for now

Channel: My Retro Watches

Views: 24,883

Rating: 4.92629 out of 5

Keywords: mark lovick, watch repair channel, seiko, vintage seiko, watch service, watch repairs, watch repair, Seiko with a story, Seiko 6119c, seiko 6119 service, 70s watches, how to service a watch, learn watch repair, vintage watch repair, retro watch, Automatic watch repair, watch repair tutorial, nekkid watchmaker, spencer klein

Id: 00StSyPeaws

Length: 69min 46sec (4186 seconds)

Published: Sat Aug 15 2020