Artillery HORNET - NOT just another Ender-3 clone!

oh thank you so good and hug everybody uh yeah had to push the button right here on my on my wireless microphone i'm very sorry i hope you can hear me now here works better better better now it works cool so i'm very sorry for that but um yeah what i just said good night everyone i'm very happy to have you here uh i haven't been streaming for three months i guess and this package was also sitting right here in my corner for the last three months and i just didn't manage to to start a live stream so today is the day that we start unboxing the artillery hornet and as you might have already read in the video title um i guess um i tried to not spoil myself but i guess this is again just just another endo 3 clone but as artillery also did it with their x1 i guess this has a little twist so this was also the reason why i told artillery that i would be happy to take a look at it so i think let's crack this thing open and see what's inside and see if we can get it working cool so the uh probably most dangerous tool in the workshop yes hey robin thanks for joining cool so who would have thought but uh yeah greeted with the typical black foam if you guys don't know and haven't watched my video if your printer is a little loud or you have the feeling that it's a little loud and you still have that packing foam around put that on the table put a um like a concrete paper on it and then your printer and uh this will make a huge difference in the end idea saying most dangerous tool in the workshop is an an8a8 yes um but i don't have one of those so for me most dangerous uh tool in the shop is probably my utility knife cool so what do we have in here so as i already said before i i think this printer has a bit of a twist and artillery has been pretty good in not just like 100 cloning um well in the earlier days the cr-10 and uh nowadays the the ender three so we have a really nice injection molded um yeah i guess that's the spool holder in here and what else do we have we have a small like purse thing with um let me also on the other camera so that you can have also a closer look on the inside yeah there we go so we have this seems to be um a sd card reader there's an sd card there are spare rollers which is kind of nice because after a while some of them might wear out or the bearings just might wear out there is one nozzle yeah there's one replacement nozzle which is really nice if that one gets clogged up cool um yeah what else do we have like the usual spanners and a couple of um of screws in here then we have a usb cable then another spanner which doesn't which doesn't look um as as generic as the the stamped ones like just the sheet metal stamped ones that i well tend to know from from other kids all right so what else do we have and yeah maybe this well not not maybe but this is the thing that that is twisted if you know the artillery sidewinder x1 you know that this was different to a cr-10 um that it did the wire routing a little bit different because it used the flat flex cables and that resulted in a really neat look in the end and what artillery i think did right here was um they replaced the wire harness that usually goes to the hotend with this integrated i don't know aviation plug thing where you have the connectors for your thermistor for your fan probably for your hotend and you also have an integrated uh you also have an integrated bowden tube in here which is pretty cool the only thing where i'm really afraid is if this thing well wears out over time i don't know if you can get a replacement harness but um if maybe somebody knows yeah yeah put it in the comments all right uh what else do we have we have a at least on the outside color manual can you focus yeah color manual so um we will follow that in a short bit then we have a quality control checklist then yeah just another piece of foam so yeah put that in the corner and then we have well the gantry of the printer so let's get this out of here uh robin is asking can you swap the bowden tube i am not sure um i don't think that you can easily swap it so just so just pulling on it doesn't seem to get it loose i think this is really an integrated solution and i am not sure if there's a replacement solution for that um i to be totally honest i really had to exchange bowdoin tubes um so i think this is not really a deal breaker but yeah just keep that in mind um is there a rotation lock at the end yeah this is this is kind of an aviation plug thing or how they call it let's see yeah so this is here for fixing it in place that's pretty cool all right so let's get the gantry out is that still stuck in here no okay so there is the gantry we have a single lead screw um for the z-axis on one side there is an anti-wobble feature in here let me just change the camera angle a little that you can get a closer look on that there we go so so we have the z lead screw motor right here uh we have a coupler to the lead screw and there is the anti wobbling feature which allows um basically the nuts to wobble around in this bearing right here so a z wobble shouldn't show on the parts itself then we have a bottom extruder right here um it looks very similar to an e3d titan so it's probably just just another titan clone let me see if this one is nah it's it's it's not uh one that drives the filament from both sides so uh yeah just uh you just have like a hop gear in here and on the other side there's just an idler on this side you we can see the the connector where also the bowden tube gets right in cool um yeah and then the typical stuff end stop and do we have something yeah this is also pretty neat uh we also have a nut right here on that side to um tighten the belt cool um i'll put that down and i'll just pick it up in a second so what else do we have well just the typical power plug called kereti sticker as we say in german and there is the hotend and that's also pretty neat because i honestly kind of hate these sheet metal bent hot ends uh hot end covers they look horrible they're heavy and i don't know they're not good for airflow and and stuff like that so what we have right here this is injection molded and looks pretty cool and i think through the yellow color and also the edges that we have around here this should resemble our our hornet that is uh that is giving the name for the printer um mika is asking we feel costed there how much is the printer costing i'm not 100 sure you can check the link in the description i think it's around 250 bucks um and i think they have it in stock in the us and also in europe so you don't have to worry about about import taxes um what else do we have in here let me see that so we have like a connector pcb in here um this connector pcb connects the which is also pretty cool the two uh part cooling fans that we have on the left and the right side those are just the typical 40 millimeter blower fans the hotend and the thermistor are also just connected by plugs so it's uh yeah way easier to swap them out because on other machines you basically need to reroute all of the wires that's pretty cool yeah hotend just the typical e3d style one and what is also different to the usual ender three clones is the size of like the cold side of the hotend so the um the not heater uh the cooling block it's it's pretty short it's pretty short it's like half of the length um i i used to have so yeah kind of nice um this is i think just a 30 millimeter fan on the front so i expected that one to be pretty whiny but we will see we will see um yeah no volcano hotend in here i think that's that's not um that's not the aim of this printer um to print like high volumes of material um hey uncle chelsea nice to have you here um it's basically just um a beginner printer it's like a different style ender 3 pretty cheap to buy but hopefully capable as i said i tried to not spoil myself and for this reason i don't really know how this machine performs so yeah hotend i talk too much all right so um let me get the rest of the packing foam out of here pikro is asking what about the cr30 review uh to be totally honest i still have it down in my office i have been using it from time to time but i maybe you can tell me more in that i don't know if the kickstarter units have already been shipped and i know that i don't have like the latest build standard and if i will be doing a review of the belt printer i basically need to have the one that's also shipping to the ones that will buy it in the future because uh what is pretty challenging on the cl-30 is is the belt and i know that naomi has been tweaking it a little bit that it's uh more sticky and you don't have the um you don't have you don't need to fear anymore that your prints come loose very easily but yeah more in that probably in a different video or we can talk about that once we get this thing printing in here all right and the next thing or actually the last thing that's the base and this is also kind of different because all of the yellow parts are injection molded which is looks pretty cool looks really nice to be honest um just because yeah it's it's a different look to the typical endo three clones injection mold itself looks really nice kind of a matte finish on the outside um i guess i'll crack it openness in a second that we can maybe take a little bit closer look on the electronics but otherwise yeah looks cool looks different um let me get you a close up so yeah so this is all injection molded the yellow stuff we have an encoder here in the front this is i think probably just a typical dot matrix display we have a full size sd card slot here in the front um the first thing i notice is that the bracket right here in the front is a little bit crooked but i don't know if that's that's by design or if that's gonna hurt anything yeah that doesn't seem to be wobbly so i guess i'll put it on the desk and put the big box away smaller lcd than most clones yeah but i don't really mind so the thing is some of the newer models they have the the fancy color screens but to be totally honest if those color screens or touch screens are not really responsive and not working well i just rather prefer having one of those typical dot matrix lcd displays because we know that they are working and they usually use um just like the stock marlin firmware cool okay so uh yeah let's let's take a look at the manual and get the thing going ah or maybe before we get that thing going let's let's maybe just take a quick look on the inside because i would be really interested to see how the the electronics look like uh let me see how i can get this thing open um [Music] so we have one big um psu in here this is a 24 volt uh just one of those typical 350 what ones that you find in in basically any printer in our day it doesn't look yeah it's it's not it's of course not a meanwhile power supply but yeah um i don't know with my cr 6se i had real issues with the meanwhile power supply it was really noisy so i don't know if other power supplies are designed well they can work kind of in a similar way okay let's see if i can get that open so i just removed the three three screws right here on the bottom i fear that there are additional ones below below those feet so the first ones are already asking will i mod it i don't know if it works why mod a printer that works this is always what i'm saying there we go okay yeah you don't need to see me okay so we have an artillery ruby board in here version 1.1 we have an arm stm32f401 in here so a 32 bit controller which is nice but probably not really necessary it would be interesting to know what's what stepper motor drivers they're using i hope those are also silent ones and not the old typical allegro but we will definitely see that in a short while there is a lot of hot slots over over the connectors um which is a pain if you would like to disassemble it but on the other side i think it's pretty cool that they just secured everything in place that it doesn't get loose during shipping we have a fan right here in the back um the the mains wires and that we can see back here um they are nicely isolated there's a cover over the mains the main mains connectors on the um on the psu we have a grounding wire connected these are all crimped so i can't really complain that much um what is also pretty nice so uh i guess they weren't really able to put um the the control board at some place right here in the housing where you could directly uh plug in a usb cable so they have basically this usb cable um how do you say not elongation but this is an additional usb cable which which goes to to another socket that is that is here on the side so if you ever need to connect that printer to octoprint or you need to flash a new firmware you can use that uh yeah then just the typical flat flex cables that go right here to the front to the lcd board otherwise not really that much more to say and i also can't really complain um it doesn't look bad on first side it's really interesting that um that basically the rails and also the motors directly connect to the injection mold um so that needs to be at least fairly precise uh in manufacturing and also fairly stiff because yeah this side right here is connected to the belt of the of the y-axis but yeah we'll we'll see how it holds up sun says it does make it easy to hide um an octopi raspberry pi on the inside yes it does because the cool thing about this being a plastics cover uh that it doesn't for example shield your um your your wi-fi signal i can already see one barge maybe let me show that for a second so um i guess they kind of forgot to have a small come on cut out for the flat flex cable so this has been done as an afterthought and not in the injection mold itself alyssa is asking is there glue on the heatsinks it looks like there are some some reddit residues of thermal compounds come on focus there are some residues of the like the thermal glue they used to glue the heatsinks in place right here on the top nothing i'd be worried about so let's close this again ow so yeah make sure that you don't have your hand or parts of your skin anywhere near where it closes all right so good so far so let's turn this over and yeah i think now it's finally the time to take a look at the manual secondary [Applause] so yeah those are the contents of the package and step number one assembly align the xy gantry to the notch on the base then fix the gantry to the base with the four pieces of m5x25 pre-installed on the base okay [Music] let's see how we do that and i'll put it on the side and this is a four millimeter jerome says do the screen peel yeah we will do that once once we power the machine on um i i think it's too early too early for the screen peel okay let's at first line one ball of each side yeah id is saying vera i love them um having some like tools that at least cost a little makes working sometimes so much more enjoyable and one of the things that i really like to use basically every day are my trusty vera spanners that i inherited from my grandpa andrew is saying they don't sell any replacement cables uh bowden on their website despises the spice this despite this being released for ages so yeah if if you have issues with this connector right here um i don't know i think in the end you could still just solder something together but i guess this is one of the outstanding features of the machine so it's not that great that they don't that they don't sell any any spares okay i have already read quite a lot of war on comments yeah i will do more actually there are currently some parts of the war on being printed downstairs um [Music] all right let's take a look at the manual what is step number two step number two is slide the spool holder into the groove on the base as shown in the picture and press it down to fix it in place so where does it go it goes on the right side yeah let me change the camera so the spool holder goes right here on the side yeah a bit wiggly but i think i think that's all right cool um so we finished that step let's get to step number three connect the z and stop cable [Music] and i think did i screw up i guess can did i screw up this is is this the front yeah it should be the front sorry yeah yeah that's all right okay so let's turn that around ah just i'm sorry just need to make that a little brighter okay so z axis end stop next step connect the c stepper motor and finally connect the main cable so all of that right here um they the cables aren't color coded but you can't really mix them up because they have like different pin headers and the last one is the main cable ah this one okay so this is the main cable can you see that no it's too bright okay sorry uh this is the main cable um that goes right here in the back cool so um let me think i still have i still have the the zip ties connecting everything i don't know if that's the manual to remove them and no it's not and i'm asking myself one of the things i'm missing i think this is one of this is actually the first printer that doesn't come with one of these with one of those flush cutters um i won't say that i i don't have enough of those flush cutters but uh yeah i need to remove them let's see if we can also do that oh yeah that's all right just just try to not cut myself okay jerome is asking any thoughts on the sturdiness oh yeah my my whole desk is shaking currently so um thoughts on the sturdiness so the gantry so the uh xz gantry is again fixed on on extrusions down here and yeah that looks super rigid i wouldn't be worried worried about anything so that's seems to be all right okay i think now we get to the interesting part and this is um connecting the hotend and the um i don't know really cool looking [Music] like connecting cable which which makes in the end a really like clean clean build okay um next step is to install the hotend on the carriage using the m3 screws that we previously found here in the back of spanners um sunda's asking what's the spacing between the psu and the table is there enough inlet when it's facing down so we have i would say five millimeters of spacing between the psu and the table um so it should be enough uh that it gets a bit of air but i think we'll see that once once it's going how loud it really is okay one two three polymate is asking how's the baby doing the baby is doing fine i i hope the baby is already sleeping downstairs since i can't hear her crying she should be fine at the moment but thanks for asking okay um this is i think a two millimeter two millimeters okay okay so that's screwed in from the front there are threaded inserts in the in the sheet metal parts chandra is asking does it cost the same as the sidewinder i think it is less expensive than than the sidewinder i i would suspect the sidewinder at least used to be around 400 dollars and this one is i think 250 so this competes more with like the end of three pro or the end of three version two instead of yeah the bigger version also the like the build volume is the same as as an angle 3 i think it's like 220 by 220 by looks like 300 3d partners saying 297 on amazon the x1 or the the hornet if you're paying 240 bucks for for an artillery signwinder x1 uh this would be a pretty cool deal because yeah i still like to use the x1 and it has a bigger um and it has a bigger uh build volume the x1 but yeah the x1 is already i think two years old so there has been a bit of of overhaul and development um okay 3d partners saying the hornet is 240 bucks yeah so as i said it's competing more with the end of three and all of the derivatives yeah so that's in place oh i i actually forgot to say and that might be interesting for some this manual is not only in english but also in deutsche lazy mixture elst yeah so for all my german viewers out there this manual is also in german i don't know if you if you're buying it a different version if there's also a spanish version or something like that but german manual kudos for that good um the next thing is connect the extruder cable tighten down the cable and turning it by the locking mechanism this seems to be so now we need to connect this connection cable um this seems to be pretty symmetric so i don't think that there is that we need to put one side specifically into one and uh another one on the other side so focus okay so this is really cool so you put that in here and then just screw it down it also um so before i maybe put that in here it also looks as if that bowden tube doesn't go all the way down to the nozzle as it is for example for an end of three and then that would be bad because um the increased amount of heat would wear down the bowden tube like very quickly and that would require changing it but since this looks as if the bowden tube still is in the i would say more or less a cold area you shouldn't have any problems that at the end right here where uh seriously ah damn it i will be back in one second uh i think i'm back i think i'm back i think i'm back uh danielle i'm sorry um yeah get yourself a pizza i would also have a pizza i'm sorry i should have checked the batteries in the transmitter before i started cool uh so we connected that and the last step is to tension the eccentric nuts with the supplied spanner so i will just check if any of them are loose but they seem to be pretty tight so there is no need to to retighten them i think it would just make things worse yeah and also below the bed nothing is nothing is wobbling around okay leveling the build plate okay so that means that we are finished with the build if i would not have talked that much uh this would have been like a five minute job um people were asking for the peel and i will peel that as soon as i i think i connected the power give me one second i kind of fear that the protective cover on the screen is below the um the injection mold so i hope that we can get that loose i checked the psu before it is set to 230 volts so good for here in germany so yeah let's turn it on all right so sorry this looks like the standard marlin screen and i don't feel bad about that because it just works uh yeah let's let's peel the protective cover oh yeah that works i'm sorry nice no magic smoke coming from somewhere i don't know if you're currently able to hear the machine but i have like a an okay humming sound coming from i think the psu it's not totally quiet um i'm usually the guy that likes really quiet printers but yeah it's it's not completely quiet but it's still bearable seriously did they forget a letter artillery hornet ready well they they didn't forget it technically it's uh just the screen wasn't like big enough okay um so let's also remove the protective sheet from the build platform so yeah this is the typical i don't know ceramics coated glass print bed which works really really well with pla and just from my experience too well because sometimes you can't really get parts to unstick from there so i'm not the greatest fan of those it's not removable it's directly glued to the like the heater pcb so let me just remove those quality control pass stickers okay so um yeah the next thing we need to do is to level the bed so let's preheat it um temperature preheat pla preheat pla so they have 70 degrees for the bed for pla which is quite high to be honest because yeah with this ultra base usually 70 50 to 60 degrees is sufficient um one thing that is nice and unfortunately you haven't seen that but this fan right here in the front is temperature control so it wasn't on until we we reached i think 50 or 70 degrees on the hot end which is nice and i think it is one of the first of those kind of endo like or cr-10 like printers where that hotend fan is not annoyingly loud that is really quiet maybe yeah it's just a really really quiet hissing noise the psu is way louder so heat up also seems to be pretty fast so the hotend is already at 208 degrees it overshoot a bit the bed it is at 50 degrees so let's clean up the desk a little before we continue um well yeah it is it is quite it's it's not totally quiet i hope that they have silent stepper motor drivers in here which could make it really a really nice office printer okay what are they telling us select temperature preheat pla preheat pla this will heat up the bed and the nozzle to actual printing conditions make the leveling more accurate wait for one minute after the machine reached the target temperature select motion level corners cool okay so we are at 66 degrees on the bed yeah i'm un patient so let's get to motion battle leveling let's change that a bit bet leveling level corners so we are homing oh it's nice and quiet can you hear it it's really quiet that's nice okay first corner so yeah what i usually take is just a piece of paper and then we turn the knob until we hear a bit of friction or yeah notice a bit of friction that's all right oh i really enjoy that they that they have enabled the bad leveling assistant because it's such a simple but such a good feature and i'm always wondering why companies just don't activate that in their firmware okay okay and the bat seems to be kind of level because also the point in the middle seems to be fine okay good so we are done let's see what's next on the list okay i guess we're done so let's check if there is some pre-made g-code on the sd card um and otherwise we'll just slice something and get this thing printing so far i'm at least not upset about that machine robin is asking how well is the bad glue to the heater pcb i can say that it is it is glued it's also really nice to see that um i think similar to the artillery sign winder x1 there is a bit of insulation below the bed which also helps with heat up temperatures other corners glued on i have no clue i would i would hope that the whole piece of glass is is glued to the aluminum carrier okay um and as i said before we have a full-size sd card so no fiddling around with the small ones no usb though but i don't really mind using sd card change media print from media there is a cube g codes hornet configuration since i don't know what cube actually means i think we'll just slice something um i think we'll just slice something in and get that printing tala is complaining that i that i didn't measure the angles and the distances um i totally honestly rarely do that and my prints also turn out fine i think this is too german okay um yeah that will be the calibration cube let's slice something more interesting i guess um and i think that will also be be done in a second let's see if i can give you a look on my screen there we go so maybe for your information artillery they are they seem to have a cura profile on their sd card and that is what they recommend since i'm just a fan of of prusa slicer and the configuration we will slice something in prusa slicer um where did i put the sd card there we go okay so let's open prusa slicer i think there is no pre-configured profile for the artilleries not sidewinder the artillery hornet in prusa slides so we can check the configuration wizard so other vendors it's fl sun bibo tri lab little spot any cubic but i'll just scrap the end of three profile that's in 99 of the cases totally totally sufficient so let's select um the marvin maybe scale that down to 100 scale that up to 150 percent just that it takes a bit more time to print yeah banshee will be good but the banshee always takes like two and a half hours and uh that's that's too long for me at the moment so this is one hour 10 minutes yeah we don't need twenty percent infill let's just change that to uh five percent infill so we are right at one hour and three minutes so save that to the sd card eject the sd card and get that thing going again um for some this screen and also the menu might look antiquated but as i said this is basically stock marlin and it just works i am way more happy to use that instead of i guess 95 of of other solutions that are out there before we start we also need to make sure that we load some filament and let me guess the big camera again i said in the video title this is a printer with a twist the twist i mean is we have all of the injection molded parts which do look honestly really nice and are just something different in comparison to all of the other hundreds of endo three clones we have dual cooling but i think the i think the best thing about this machine is the really clean wiring between the the feeder and the hot end and that's just something i need i need to put out there um andreas is asking is there usb input for octoprint yes there is you can see it right here so there is i think that's um yeah the bigger usb thingy okay um and what's also different to like basically every other printer that i have unboxed over the years this one doesn't come with any with any snippers and there is no sample filament delivered with the machine which i find great because sample filament is always horrible so i just grabbed a roll of das filament multicolored galaxy pla let's put that on the spool holder and see how we can feed it in there auntie is asking stefan do you have any recommendations of a touchscreen for marlon that is not horrible no i i really like the simple dot matrix screens because they are just working okay um let's move the z-axis a bit up ah and look how fast the z-axis is moving it this is kind of similar to the artillery x1 to be totally honest because most other knock-off printers there wasn't really put any thought into the machines and with both of the artillery machines that i have so far it seems that somebody who is regularly printing have has been tweaking the firmware and also the machine itself those are just the small little things wiring is clean the z-axis is not horribly slow when it's moving up and downwards so as i said so far pretty nice pretty nice okay um yeah i'm not a huge fan of of filament loading procedures uh there's a really nice let me show that there's a really nice hook right here at at the feeder that you can just yeah pull back and then feed the filament manually that's way faster cool so let's get printing um jose is asking do i get this or the cr6se uh i can't tell that because so far i i haven't used this printer so far i wasn't really keen on the cr6s here but i think they changed a couple of things after the kickstarter ended and the cr6se is pretty expensive and i guess the only really nice thing about the cr6se is the integrated nozzle bed leveling sensor okay so let's go to print from media print from media and this is our keychain marlin and let's start it yeah cs6 and it has a dual leads dual z lead screw but also honestly if a printer is well designed you don't need two z-axis uh it's it's really reliable this way as well so basically the only thing i'm missing right here is is a dual um a dual gear feeder so this is just a single sided feeder similar as on the x1 but if you're not printing crazy fast this should also do the job michael is saying ugliest printer i've ever seen honestly i think this is one of the be more beautiful ones so we are priming bed level also looks okay yep that's fine i'm sorry for the shaking i should have maybe switched cameras before i did that okay we can see a lot at the moment yeah looks good looks good to me sorry um and he's saying lamborghini colors yeah as i said that the color scheme is is really nice um it's printing now print moves part cooling fans uh hotend cooling fan and yeah like the stepper motors totally quiet the only thing that is slightly annoying i'd say is the loud psu but it could be worse it could be really worse fernando thank you for the 50 is that mexican dollars uh thank you so much for that donation yesterday arrived my artillery genius with issues with the touchscreen therefore i prefer the simple lcd screen with knob greetings from mexico greetings from germany to mexico mr max reel is asking how fast are you printing uh this is the standard slicing profile from [Music] prusa slicer for the end of three it is quite conservative i think it does like 40 to 50 millimeters a second um sun is asking did the bowden pdf ptfe move freely inside the cable or can it be replaced without the entire cable harness i think it's not movable and this might be one of the bigger downsides try to give you a better perspective that you can also see the print going yeah sorry so we're currently printing the feet of the marvin it is a bit small yeah we will see more of it more of it in a second as soon as we get further up the the hotend the hotend assembly is is a bit big but yeah the dual the dual cooling fans do look really nice [Music] [Music] um lengthy is asking is there an estimated print time prusa slicer estimated roughly one hour and the screen just gives us an elapsed time sorry then scotsman is saying interesting concept but non-replaceable bowden is weird yes it is weird but the good thing is that this bowden tube right here doesn't go all the way down to the nozzle so it's not in the hot zone so it shouldn't really wear out if you're not printing tons and tons of carbon fiber reinforced materials but if this is your plan you should maybe also take a look at a different printer hans hans is saying i heard this thing can print pretty fast um we can turn up the uh printing speed in a bit also go to 200 percent and see um what happens then jose is saying from first impression what would you print to modify the printer right now uh nothing it looks fine it looks really fine i don't see the need for a different fan shroud so far we have we have the possibility to tighten the x belt right here and the z belt the z belt uh sorry the um the y-belt the y-belt is not that easily tightenable [Music] yeah so far so good it looks it looks pretty nice one of those machines again i i think i might not directly put somewhere on a shelf and and not use anymore um the interesting thing to me is and maybe somebody of you can answer that but i haven't read or seen a lot of reviews of that machine is there something really like game breaking or wasn't it just covered that much yet because as i said i have that machine i have had that machine in my corner for three months so i'm probably not the only one that has that one and i think joel also streamed one or two weeks ago um assembling that machine but i didn't want to to spoil myself so i wanted to go into that live stream unboxing review without any pre-thoughts daniel is saying maybe you can tighten the y-belt with the stepper i know the stepper is actually like fixed in position there is the bracket here in the front that you can modify this one right here um there are slots in this bracket right here so you can um open those and just put it in place but there's not like a nice mechanism as for the x-axis to adjust the tightness anthony's asking would you be would you change anything the only thing i would change if i was like artillery but yeah they built that to a prize is a less noisy power supply because if the power supply would be more quiet or even fan less this would be a quiet machine it would be as quiet as a prusa and this is still something i'm i'm really looking for a forward or looking for besides the prusa every other printer is noisy in some way some might not be bothered by that but it always annoys me and i can understand why others are not not able to do that anti thank you for the 25 thank you for the 25 uh greetings from texas keep making great content i challenge other us viewers to spread some love as well uh thank you very much auntie highly appreciate that um greetings to texas as well still one state i i haven't visited yet um since we are currently in the yeah let's let's take a look how the the print turns out mode um my big plan for this year pre-covet was uh that i'll just take two or three months of work uh due to parental leave what we can do in germany and do one big uh yeah us i don't know how do you say that one big us tour so i was really planning to rent an rv in maine or just on the upper east coast then drive all the way down the east coast to florida then over to the west coast and all the way up to seattle vancouver this is still one of my big dreams but unfortunately due to uh covet that's that's not gonna happen um i still have i still have a couple of weeks or actually two months of parental leave this august and september and we have already rented an rv for that time but i fear yeah it's called a road trip but i fear that this road trip might also only happen in in germany but we'll see we'll see john is asking what are you drinking [Music] that is one horribly good italian like um [Music] mandarin lemonade thing san pellegrino clementina nice always reminds me of always reminds me of uh holidays in italy and the great food there eric thanks for the five bucks highly appreciate that uh [Music] do you think this would work with the quinley bed from 3dq i have no clue what the quinley bed is but due to the super chat let me just check that one second and maybe i can give you an answer so okay so uh yeah i don't have any possibility to change the screen at the moment but it looks like as if the quinley bed is well you i guess you basically put the printer at an angle and have a g code that ejects the parts one after the other i don't see why this shouldn't be working there are there is the sd card and the knob right here in the front but if you would put a cover over that why not why not [Music] um yes i still need to open my beverage i've been playing around with it in my hand for the last 10 minutes daniel nestle unfortunately seriously mr nestler it doesn't say nestle on it doesn't say nestle on the can it says ball but yeah maybe they they didn't put their name on it nikolas is asking thus the bed seem to be evenly heated because the x1 is bad in that regard i don't know and i can ah give me one second i have a thermal camera right over here let's see um one thing i think we haven't talked about yet um i think this nut is not an ac heated bed this is a dc bed running on 24 volts so heat up times are not as quick but still i think really manageable so i have a fleur thermal camera that i can put on my phone and then we can take a look if the bed is heated evenly so let's see wait a second so i don't know if this is due to the cooling fans but yeah there's 50 right here or if it's just due to the emissivity of the bed but there seems to be quite quite a hot spot on that side um it's hard to say as i say as i said it always depends on the emissivity of the material um but it doesn't look to be like super evenly we have 50 right here this is just the reflection of the hot end and this looks really weird there's a really a real hot spot on that side yeah maybe something to check out if i would ever do a review she is saying probably not the most accurate reading being a phone attachment the readings are not too bad um the problem is always the emissivity of the material um because if you don't calibrate a thermal camera the readings will be will be bad in the end as well uh yeah we are we have already done quite a bit of our 150 scale marvin let me try to give you a closer look of it so the surfaces do look really smooth you'll see uh blanks is saying could be the light reflection yeah could be as well because i have some really big lights right here on the front cool um yeah let's see if it at some point yeah let's let's do it another couple or let's just let it go for another couple of minutes and then we can turn up the speed and see if that changes anything with the print quality a tree is asking is that an any cubic ultra base type bed it's not an any cubic outer base but it's in any cubic ultra base type bed yes so you also have this ceramic coating on the surface um can you lower the camera i can give it a try but it's fixed on the tripod in the tribe and this is basically the lowest setting of the tripod but let me figure out something [Music] yes it's too low again yeah but there is it it does look really nice very smooth surfaces uh victor is asking how is your war on zero the voron is currently still not being used anymore due to my problems that i had with yeah like basically the material creeping away but i'm currently doing the uh the creep tests and hopefully i have results zoom to choose a material for basically rebuilding it i need to get something that is a little higher a funky saying between the legs it has some issues um yes it does but it's just because um the model prints in like clean air so this is not due to the the printer not being capable of doing overhangs it's just because uh the model is designed that way i thought i had a really nice tripod but but it seems to be yeah just too high for you to see what's going on there that's too low again come on there we go so far so good for everyone who doesn't know this is a 150 scale marvin keychain marvin so many questions about the war on will i be building a war on v2 maybe i need to finish my v0 at first and print my 10 minute banshee i do have too many banshees perfectly engineered what's perfectly engineered the voron or the artillery genie uh sorry artillery hornet too slow um give me four more minutes and in four minutes we will turn the speed up to 200 percent and see how that changes results in the end nc what about a jubilee tool changer built uh i still have my e3d tool changer and i currently do have too many printers it's actually hard to say that but i have too many printers and too many projects going on so i need to focus on the stuff that seems to be important and that also seemed to be interesting for you i think one of the really interesting videos in the near future will be the material creep video funky art keep up the great work guru sirozcal khalsa yeah also a bit more southern about in wuttenburg is it better than the vox lab aquilia i have no clue what that is but i did not have a clue what a war on is like two months ago and i'm so blown away right now with your accent that almost sounds like too many banshees uh whatever a banshee is i only know a a banshee from from gta which would be way worse which would be a way worse problem matia is asking do you prefer direct drive or bowden if i'm not looking for pure speeds i would always prefer direct drive um if you want to have a fast printer a bowden system has the benefit that it removes the weight of the the feeder from the printhead which is well results in less vibrations or just gives you fast accelerations let's put it this let's put it this way hans kansas is asking will there be a video about the hornet you're just watching a video about the hornet um i'm not sure if i will do a full review on it so far it doesn't seem to be a bad printer especially for the price and um i think if it performs similarly to an endo 3 i might almost be preferring this machine just because it looks different and it has nice stock marlin and it has a nice wiring loom and things like that peter is asking can you review a mark forge too expensive for me um so yeah i currently don't have a mark forge i i would be really interested they they recently released i think copper as a material for the mark forge printer so you print copper particles with a binder and then deem binder and century it and have uh yeah proper proper copper parts in the end which would be really interesting to to print some filler green heatsinks for example no one is asking what is the best choice for inexpensive nylon printing i i i i don't know but i have made really good experiences with the hobbyking materials i don't know if they also do have nylon but it's maybe was worth checking that out nylon is very often a real pain to print if you don't have one of the more expensive ones that are modified by additives or infused with carbon fibers for example uh jerome is asking any project projection on the release date for the material creep video probably not in the next four weeks but i hope that in may or something those tests take a bit of time i have already made several tests just to figure out how to do it but it still requires some time um hayden is saying look towards the nylon 12 materials he was usually easier to print than nylon 6 in his opinion i wouldn't fully agree on that um because nylon 12 requires a requires to be properly melted that the layers fuse together so if you have layer adhesion problems with nylon 12 maybe think about either printing waste low or using a volcano hotend that's what i uh that what that's what my experience with that was in the past hans is asking have you seen the mosaic pellets two or three yes i have seen them and i would really like to use one at some point and the three now looks really really nice i hope maybe when they when they finally release it i might get my hands on one and maybe compare it to the tool changer because currently my e3d tool changer is the only machine where i can do multi-material and multi-color 3d printing uh andreas tala is asking so he's wondering why the bowden tube the integrated bound tube doesn't reach all the way down to the nozzle and if this is an all metal hot end i'm not sure if this is an all metal hot end uh it would be nice if this would be an all metal hotend by but i suspect they still have like a short ptfe liner similar to the e3 to the endo 3 bowden fix you might have seen in there and i think yes let me show you something so let me quickly change the focus so in like the accessories of the printer there is a short bowden tube included and i suspect that this is a spare that could potentially go into uh the hot end and i think this is the thing that reaches down all the way to the nozzle but i'm i'm not sure there but i suspect that's what this is so this does look pretty nice some digital zoom right here um time to go faster yeah i think it's time to go faster yeah the lighting is just not perfect i should maybe have done that already in the past okay uh cooling 100 i think yeah the part cooling fan is running 100 percent okay let's crank the speed up let's maybe start with 150 percent so this is 150 speed [Music] let's keep that running for two three minutes uh that we can later check if the ringing marks got more but so far yeah that's not it's still not super fast hey fabio fabio is repairing his cr-10s while watching the screen stream he has a broken bad cable yeah i had that as well also on on my machine on my machine the connector to the electronics enclosure broke at some point nathan is asking printing a marvin what year is it it's 2021 but since a banshee always takes so long and a marvin also has some some really nice features to take a look at after the print i thought uh yeah why not why not print that one just half done is asking i need to print small tires with a somewhat flexible rubber-like material i've got a cr6se any ideas what i could use uh i can highly recommend the various short tpu by by colorfab because in its like initial state it's still quite rigid but if you increase uh the printing temperature um the material foams up and gets way more softer and daniel is saying 80 millimeters a second this thing should uh be capable of doing yes we will do that but give me like two three more minutes just that we can later see a transition if it got worse um fpv leo is asking do you fly fpv i used to fly fpv years ago but i haven't done it a lot the last years uh what's your favorite ptg brand i print a lot of dust filament but just because it's local and it's working uh steph is asking how much does this one cost 240 bucks usually delivered from a local warehouse alyssa is asking any new adventures with the filler struder no but i'm currently trying to get back into filament recycling or material recycling by using the mahor x y z direct extruder but i'm currently putting a new geared stepper driver on it 200 percent what woodworks 500 thank you for the 10 euros hello cnc kitchen i got myself a prusa mark 3 and i recently bought some e3d nozzles i wonder what i would need for a nozzle replacement and how i would do that could you also make a video about that i think there are i think you could even check the prusa mark 3 manual and they should tell you how to change the nozzle but what you need is just like as a spanner that is the size of the the heater block that it well doesn't rotate while you unscrew the nozzle and yeah another important thing is when changing the nozzle is um for once you need to hot tighten it that it doesn't get loose during printing again and that you don't over tighten the nozzle because if you over tighten the nozzle mostly the the aluminum threads in the heater block will snap and then you need to replace the heater block one newton meter is recommended for that but yeah i would say a bit more than hand tied just pay attention and i'm quite sure that there are also on youtube a couple of videos about changing nozzles on an e3d v6 uh we set woodworks 500 hot titan question mark hot titan means that you for once unscrew the nozzle when the hot end is hot right around i would say 200 degrees celsius that it just that the the plastic that's maybe sticking a bit to the threads of the nozzle um that the plastic gets loose so you untighten it at 200 degrees celsius and once you have added the new nozzle you um slightly tighten it by hand again at 200 degrees celsius or something like that but then you heat your hot end up all the way to 295 degrees celsius so as hot as it can get and um tighten it another time at that temperature and that is what hot tightening means um [Music] michael is asking you said that 32-bit boards is not an advantage only true on cartesian on cartesian or some or same on colossal so on a cartesian printer if it's well configured a 32-bit control board is not necessary but it's cheaper than a 8-bit board nowadays so why not use 32-bits the calculation power of a 32-bit board with arm processors for example do have their advantage when you for example have a delta printer or if you want to go really fast or if you want to directly hook a collar touch screen to your machine then 32-bit is something that is really necessary it's just a more powerful board um one second let me turn the speed all the way up to 200 percent and see what that does ah that looks nice so we are now at um 200 of the initial speed i think um that the the marvin was sliced with around 40 millimeters or 45 millimeters a second speed so we should be at 80 millimeters a second but since the accelerations are not hugely high i think the printer will not be able to reach those really high speeds but it's definitely faster than before hey philip nice to have you here i was i was quite jealous to see your your uh plastic shredder in your latest video my hand cranked one or my hand hand powered one uh is i think not as well working as yours so i'm really looking forward to see what you what you have in mind to do with it people are saying that i print too hot i print at 200 degrees celsius and um honestly i would not go below that temperature even with pla the things that you are able to see like right here in the front this is just printing in in total air so i wouldn't say that the printer is is responsible for that i've never seen that looking like way better on another machine dominique are you a fan of arc welder i tried ark welder out one time so for the ones who don't know what arc welder is alt welder is a plug-in for octoprint that takes a look at your g-code and replaces circular motions by the g2 and g3 g-code commands so that the faceting of your model can be gone and short steps are replaced with bigger arc movements i have tried it i haven't seen any huge advantages for my application so far woodworks 500 see in the kitchen what do you think is the best hobby printer you have ever put your hands on i know there aren't any bests but uh in all angles what do you think is the best printer call me a shill but i love my my prusa mark iii um so i think you have bought a a very good a very good printer it's my my fire and forget machine i print most of my parts on the prusas i put the sd card in there i hit start i leave the room and i'm i can be like 99 sure that when i come back after three hours five hours i have a finished part on the build platform i don't need to watch the first layer i don't need to worry about bed leveling and things like that everything just works uh auntie thank you again for the five bucks here five bucks towards a new shredder go save the planet yes i really want to do more in that direction and i'm more i'm already working on on projects there but i'm i need to replace the the underpowered stepper motor on my extruder at the moment wow vincent is saying i think the prusa mini is a great is great as a starter uh maybe i have never tried a prusa mini so i can't say if if it's good i was hoping to have a prusa mini kit arrive at my doorstep uh from day into day out because this is like the the printer that i won at the polymaker competition but yeah it's i think it's still not shipped out but i hope that it will arrive at some point soon hey jim how are you doing uh sorry that i don't have your filament on here gentlemen is asking how do you have experience with sinto bearings um when i first purchased my prusa mark two almost five years ago i installed ego's bearings in there they worked okay but i had the feeling that they wore out quite fast just because i think the axes were not perfectly aligned and this was also the reason why i switched back to um to the normal bearings jerome uh mini kit or pre-assembled uh i have the kit version uh just because i won like a 500 printer in the polymaker competition and the kit was 450 plus i think another 20 for the filament runout sensor so it was just below the limit and uh the assembled machine would have already been been above that value and uh i was yeah looking forward to yeah assemble it on a stream just because um many have seen a prusa mini the pre-assembled version but not a lot have done or assembled the kit on their own or have somebody else seen one being assembled marvin marvin's asking do you use something like nvidia broadcast is the printer that silent no i there is no filtering applied to my audio i have a lavalier mic right here at my at my neck the printer is not totally silent but it is not loud and i so far really enjoyed the only loud things on this machine are the psu fans and also the fans right here in the enclosure for the psu it's it's kind of a pity because replacing a psu is can be kind of expensive replacing the fan here in the enclosure might be an option to just calm it down a little more mild lemon is saying assembling the mini kit is easier than the mark 3s i hope just because i am not looking forward to do a six seven hour stream assembling a printer this i think would kill my brain hackbart what fitament do you think is the hardest to print nylon is always a pain if you would go to pei or pps or peak this would be even harder but i haven't tried that so far andreas tala owl filament yeah i i purchased a role of their bivari filament like two years ago because i wanted to do a review on it i didn't do that in the end but i used it for printing face shields at the beginning of last year and uh surprisingly i did not have a single jam on that 10 euro spool yeah pilto which bigger printer 400 or bigger can you suggest i don't have a clue i don't have such a big printer on my own um you can always check the creality printers but i have never tried one so yeah i don't really have an opinion in that direction huck bart have you tried the dragon hot and no i have not tried the dragon hot end but i would like to do a hot end comparison at one point martin the engineer what is the most expensive filament that i have ever bought um so i haven't bought that myself but i have a three kilo roll of basf ultra fuse um 13 8 ph sintering material down down there where i think the road the three kilogram roll is 450 euros so that's pretty expensive but as i said i didn't buy that on my own how's the fl sun q5 going almost got one myself i tried to install new firmware but it just wasn't working out for me but i might be getting the new fl sun i think how's it called qs5 or rs 5 with linear rails and things like that really looking forward to because i still don't don't have like a good working delta printer to show off if you if you do a hotend comparison include the nova hotend yeah people talked about that on on twitter today yeah maybe melted gyro what's your fastest benchy on the mark 3s i haven't tried to print a really fast one on the on the prusa yet zapp would you recommend hardened nozzles for wood fill filaments um no just for the reason that wood filaments tends tended to clog my nozzles like regularly so i either had to replace them very often or had to burn them out and uh burning out a hardened nozzle will basically ruin it so and i don't think that wood filament is that abrasive as a glow-in-the-dark or carbon fiber material so i wouldn't use a hardened an expensive hardened steel nozzle for for good filament fish effelson sr yeah the super racer that's the one what do you think about bqb1 uh don't have one no opinion on that what's the biggest nozzle diameter you have tried 1.2 millimeters nothing special mwl so what's the twist the twist is injection molded enclosure and nice wiring harness leon what was my very first 3d printer it was a mendel 90 and it was the best decision i made at that point investing in in that machine because it is it was a really great machine yeah if you if somebody of you has an fl sun q5 so that delta printer putting a different main board in there is not a bad choice because i think the robin nano that is in there is just it's it's it's not a good main board i wasn't really happy with it alberto is asking what material is this this is das filament multicolor galaxy pla wait we are done and so fast okay we will take a closer look at the marvin in a second but [Music] you can tell me that this is bad man sorry i have to go to the full camera john thank you so much for the hundred bucks um for more drinks thanks for the content and amazing videos uh thank you so much for the donation um this will make my son pelegrino clementina taste even better [Music] all right let's take a look at the marvin but i will get just the tripod mounted again makes it easier to take a look at the details so let's do a quick recap um so we assembled the printer then we printed this 150 percent sized marvin model using the ender 3 profile in prusa slicer just because this was the easiest way to do um right at the middle we increased the speed from 100 printing speed to 150 and roughly i think around here we increased it to 200 percent the normal printing speed this is um dust filament pla and um this marvin was scaled by 150 percent so that it takes a bit longer okay second so sorry okay so there we go come on um this down here is totally normal because this is just an island that is printed in in mid-air that's a problem of the model otherwise you can even see the faceting of of the model right here so i think this is not an artifact of the printer but this is just the facets of the model it doesn't look as if as we have any any z bending it doesn't look as if we have any uh any salmon skin effect right here at 200 we can see some small artifacts but this is really printed at right at the edge uh overhangs look really nice i think especially because we have part cooling coming from both sides also here and here um details were printed really nice i can't i can barely spot any ringing artifacts maybe just right around here um also this part right here printed at 200 speed so there wasn't a lot of time for cooling this came out really well also those parts right here looks really beautiful um if you say this print looks inconsistent as i said we increased the speed right around here this was printed at 200 percent speed this bottom part was all printed at like the normal speed setting and this looks more than usable it looks really nice to be honest i can't really complain in in any way cool yeah let's put this back on the print platform just because it looks nice so 240 bucks uh five minute assembly uh 32-bit control board 24 volts power supply uh i think 220 by 220 by a 300 millimeter print platform um a nice dot matrix lcd display with an encoder wheel right here on the front full size sd card um really neat and clean wiring to be honest uh so maybe you can see this a little bit better now uh we only have this this one wiring harness going to the front um i think this is one of the coolest things but also one of the big downsides of this printer because if something in here fails i don't know if you and how you would replace something like that on your own this is not a full review but so far i'm really happy noise level is acceptable steppers are quiet the only thing that is a bit noisy is the power supply firmware seems to be configured really well i can complain way less than i think on many other printers of this price range and i think also like the group of people it's it's aiming towards um do some more research on your own maybe uh people have been printing with this machine for a long amount of time maybe things are failing but so far i would not say stay away from that printer i guess i have maybe forgotten a couple of questions um so yeah if you have any more questions uh this video will be like be available after the stream as well put your questions in there and i guess that's basically it thank you very much for watching thank you very much for your time i'm really hoping to do that more often in the future just because now i have an office and i hope to get some more furniture behind me because that currently still looks horrible have a great weekend happy easter and i guess i will see you soon thank you very much and also thank you very much for the donations and super chats goodbye

Channel: CNC Kitchen

Views: 55,602

Keywords: 3d printing, artillery genius, 3d printer, artillery 3d printer, sidewinder x1, 3d print, artillery sidewinder x1, ender 3, 3d printer review, cheap 3d printer, 3d printing for beginners, artillery hornet, ender 3 v2, 3d printers, fdm printer, artillery 3d, evnovo sidewinder, best budget 3d printer, best 3d printer under 300, best 3d printer for beginners

Id: Dov5ujJE1qY

Length: 128min 35sec (7715 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 03 2021