LIVE Creality CR-10S unboxing and first test! How are the upgrades?

[Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] and we are live hello everybody um just because it has been a while please let me know if there are any technical difficulties you experienced hello Jay hey everybody so I guess we just wait for some seconds until everybody has joined and then we gonna start with the big spot big box right here it's all you okay well I don't know it's probably as curly as it ever was but I should go to the barber soon hey so audios good image is sharp that is great [Music] so let me see okay so we have already gathered quite a crowd right here okay Chris alright so I'm happy to have you here on this Saturday afternoon or Saturday night or Saturday morning wherever you are today's topic is going to be the sea art and a switch well your best has sent me again and I really want to take a look at the machine especially since I was working with the normal sphere 10 now for quite a while had some problems modified it and stuff like that and we'll see what what the surely upgraded on this machine and how it performs hello to India alright so I guess we gonna dive right in so if you guys are hearing me let's take the most dangerous tool we have in a shop the char the exacto knife and cut the Box open I I haven't opened the box so I hope everything is in there and everything is also in one piece all right there we go mmm let's maybe change to the second camera which is totally out of focus there we are and let's take a look at it yeah Paul bread so sorry for everybody who didn't activate the bell icon do that because otherwise you're gonna miss streams and new videos which are hopefully coming out more regularly right now okay so what do we have in here the first thing which I already noticed is that there aren't any sorry no maybe there are inserts in the machine that I can't see them right now so what we have right here is the crib pad it is really nicely secured right here in the box so there there are all these these cutouts with good form and let's see how we are able to get this out of here okay this is the first layer this is the first layer with more or less the the y-axis or the base off the printer I'll just put this aside and we take a look at the next layer okay so in the second layer what we are having and again so the Assembly of the the normal sear 10 has already been a while ago so I don't exactly remember how well it was packed but this looks really sturdy and fine so survive the the shipping from from China quite well as far as I can judge it at the moment so we have the electronics box right here x axis with extruder fan and stuff like that a roll of painters tape for the print bed a box with accessories where we maybe have some other things inside so assembly instructions right here the insert I was just well talking about so we can do that later yeah I guess this right here is the filament run out sensor which is also new for the stair 10s where I'm actually really looking forward to and what else do we have in here is a normal European power plug to pour check on this is I guess for mounting the z-axis bound coupler another nozzle and stop right here USB cable so so the usual stuff and and this puppy pit right here I don't know I guess there are already quite a lot of people who have injured themselves with this thing but this is a small needle which you can use to clean your nozzle if it's clogged okay so also that's its side and take yeah what's left in here so we already had the electronics box and I'll just take it out and put it aside for for the next yeah so this is the this is the CR 10 with 300 by 300 by 300 the volume so not the bigger one it's again well one of my largest printers I have or the largest printer I have together with the normal sphere 10 and let's take the gantry out which is quite well less yes I'm and please stick to English otherwise you won't get any anything to eat later okay um I crash the electronics box but I think it's gonna be fine if it survives shipping from from China here to Germany it should also be found just getting down on the floor alright so shipping took for me four days or something like that your best they always ship their stuff at least to me via DHL and this works very well and well I don't have so customs usually DHL is handling customs so you will be needing to pay I think that 90% of import port X here in Germany but it usually works quite well for everybody who is buying one of these printers I just would definitely not recommend using the the most cheap shipping option because this will take ages this will take ages and you don't know where it ends up DHL they're usually handling customs and stuff like that so they get to your door and charge you for that so but yeah I get these I get these machines for free so I don't know how normal shipping works ok um so I guess I guess we just take a look at the manual and follow the steps which are in here so this is Chinese and English and doesn't look too bad let me see I this almost looks like yeah this this is still the menu for the normal sea urchin so I guess there isn't a really big difference between the two besides they the second z-axis but we will find out so pecking list this is just for cosmetics ah yeah the proof the proof is cooking something really nice today but we will need to wait until we we make our first sample prints and I've actually modelled my Prusa to directly have a temperature sensor in the pot that I can directly set the temperature and the croutha is perfectly holding the temperature for my sous vide bath okay so what's it saying at first installation steps number one remove the thin film and put the lead screw into the bottom of the coupling so I guess they are talking about the ZX so I'll just get this on the table there we are okay so what we can already see so we do not now only have one lead screw we have two lead screws right right here and the the coupler is actually different so the old ones they were the ones with the spiral and actually on my old machine this one was broken so they seem to have changed that I don't know how good they are and if they have more slack with the rubber parts here in the middle but yeah we'll see we'll see mr. yellow yeah no I did actually not do any any PID tuning for for the pots the stock settings for the bad work quite well at least for now so I haven't been cooking with this for for too long that's yeah we'll find out all right so we put it out of the box let's get the snippers and remove the zip ties which were there for shipping reasons so that the packing is really really well made because they are supporting they are supporting the trapezoidal screws so that they don't get bent they nicely save everything or secure everything with these it does does it come with a roll of filament yeah it actually does it is not the biggest one it is probably around like 250 grams of PLA filament but this will at least get you started I haven't been printing with the other roll I already have from the other co 10 so I don't know how the quality is but usually bright now PLA filament this is fine you can't really screw it up that much you go um I I guess I need to take a look at the heat bed later but I think I think the new heat bed should be isolated for for quicker heat at times because this was also something which really bothered me on the old machine that even heating the heat plate up to 55 or 260 degrees took ages and that's just uncomfortable alright um so they are saying that we shall tighten the lead screws but they seem to be they seem to be quite tight so I think this step is already done so we'll just leave it as it is okay next step um preparing base open the packing box take out all parts that's something which we already did compared to picture 3 these are the insulation parts take out install parts from tool box so this is our tool box let's get to the second camera tool box and for the installation we need these parts right here they are actually to tighten the sorry to tighten the or to assemble the z-axis tool to the base so wouldn't I recommend some kind of filament nuts on on the sear 10 so honestly I have almost purely been printing PLA on my other Cyr tail it is able to reach a hundred degrees for the bed after quite a while so you are able to print to print abs if you get into more technical materials it might so the pen the problem might be the the temperature of the hot end because I am not 100% sure but I think this Harden only goes to a hundred and seventy-five degrees and that might be not enough for like polycarbonates and maybe even some nylons but don't don't don't quote me on that and it just is just as Jay just mentioned so flexible filaments even if they are even they are printable on that machine but only really slow and due to the Bulbul setup you will not get the greatest printing results when printing a flexible filaments okay um so let's yeah follow the assembly steps okay it's really short connect the base okay so actually the only thing we need to do is connect this thing right here to the base so let me also get the base right here on the table sorry 275 degrees I think it's the maximum temperature but we can we can actually check that later so just give me a second okay well I should have probably this to the side before yeah that's all right okay so this is the base um and let's take a look at the heat bed and I think I have seen some insulation which is great because well insulation doesn't only help you with the heat up time but it will also save you electricity costs in the end and if you are like me living in Germany we pay like they're almost 30 cents per kilowatt hour so doing some some energy saving on such a big heat bed might save you some bucks on the long run video is still fun please please tell me if there is something wrong actually i'm not streaming over Wi-Fi anymore today i finally plucked myself into my my normal router so I think this shouldn't be a problem today okay um just turn this over so also something really nice what I can directly notice is that they added a strain relief on the heat bed and this was this was a problem on the old machine because the wires were just dangling around in the back and especially if you had the printer next to a wall they were bending all the time and I guess lots of them have already failed and due to the stress relief at least the soldering joints shouldn't be a problem no anymore taking a look at the other side we can see the installation so there is quite a thick insulation pad below the heat it's not on the whole surface but it covers like 80 or 90 percent of everything and that should significantly significantly help us with heating time this is fine so everything is made out of aluminum extrusions the bells look really good the the bed has some play I guess we need to tighten it a little later but otherwise it's it's okay so far all right um yeah let's let's follow it follow the manual so let's see so there should be some there should be some M 5 by 25 screws in the spec don't want to lose everything ok so these are these all screws we need to tighten everything there are Sh there are some some aluminum shavings on here but I think that that's fine so um let's see how shall we start I guess I guess I have to put it on its side and then we can fix everything but let me get my wrenches okay this is fine so this way the gantry Oh which I did not I didn't remove all the zip ties yet so you need to do that now Raphael what are you speaking about concerning the z-axis where do I need to pay attention so this goes in here so I have I have added one of these lock nuts below we go below the boat so let's like the first one in and just yeah just tighten it hand tight just it it just doesn't fall apart anymore yes Oh Raphael if you can see in the back I also have a seer temp it is okay I had also some issues in the beginning but still it was quite easy to assemble there are some tuning things which you need to do later and there are plenty of upgrades around but all in all it's it's it's not the worst printer to be honest and especially for the price the concern I'm always having is that if I own such a big printer I want a big print parts and the extruder is just not made for printing fast and printing also with bigger nozzles for this reason I upgraded the other one with the Titan Aero hot end because this is just way better suited for this purpose okay so this is not just hands tied I probably get one of the wrenches out of the I get one of the ranches out of the box to properly tighten everything in the end okay let's just put this right here so there's also a bag of tools included in the box if you don't have anything at home and well even not the most basic ones it should it should enable you to assemble everything without needing to go to the hardware store okay yeah guys please stick to English because also my Spanish well I don't know any Spanish mm-hmm yeah I guess this is fine this is just compressing the lock washers a little more so all right um another thing which I just have noticed let's see if we can capture that with the other camera is that we no sorry haven't you camera set up best okay so there is a cover over here there is a cover over the stepper which is for the x-axis I don't know why they put it here either it's for saving parts because this is actually an injection mode and injection molded part I don't know maybe somebody got his finger stuck in here I don't know yeah let me know okay so let's continue yeah about the concern about being it being backwards no all the steppers actually go go to the back on the on the base the back is more or less marked by the stepper right here and the c-axis motors are right here the extruder motor is right here and for the x-axis we have the motor right here guys please stick to English okay yeah okay with the script so we have fixed the gantry and now we need to install the T blocks those are these ones and maybe also something interesting for everybody who who will be doing that for their first time when I assembled my other seer ten at first I did not know that you are able to slide in these t-nuts just without having everything apart but it's actually way easier and these these tea nuts are damn it what's chat doing hi hill city yeah I I'm happy that I inspired you it's it's bad if the mic is not working but I'm happy to have you here so I don't know if this if this is your first assembly of a printer but maybe you can use the knowledge to to later continue your stream okay so I have just loosened the the t-nuts slightly that we can slide it in here and then fix everything in place I don't know if these were would actually it would actually even be necessary because with the with the extrusions the setup is really really sturdy from the beginning but well better be safe than sorry okay I'd take another slot so I actually was also already scared that Tom might be doing a stream today because although because then all of you guys might have rather maybe watched Tom to some stuff than me but he hasn't started yet so yeah it's still here okay so on the one side the T bracket is just for making everything sturdy on the other side the T bracket also features the end stop for in the x-axis which we will be assembling now so to be honest the printer looks quite sexy without the inserts in this all black so I guess I don't know if I will even be adding them because at least on some excess day the inserts which which go in here they slide against for example the x-axis and screw up the the performance of your printer and you don't want that to happen so again just for clarification I did not order that printer the printer was sent to me by gearbest there are lots of debates or about gearbest if they are sending me stuff it takes like three to four days to arrive to my door so this is great and they use DHL at least here in Germany which is also fine but I don't have any experience in ordering something at their facility all by myself so yeah gear Vestas is a thing you can also now get here 10 printers at Amazon if you are looking for that and if if the sellers are in in your country you don't have problems with import X and stuff like that so they will be more expensive but you will have not that much hassle because there are quite some people around who yeah we have problems with printers being shipped from China sometimes they get lost sometimes you have problems when you want to import them and pay the import taxes and stuff like that so just keep that in mind that Amazon or they are also probably some eBay sellers which are located in your in your country are also an option for for buying this printer is it worth buying simplified 3d mmm so to be honest I'm I'm a huge fan of simplified 3d because you can change so many settings and you can use different processes for doing doing big studies on the printer I am not so happy that they are kind of not continuing developing it at the moment yeah I don't know it always depends what you want to do if you have a good profile for first slicer or for cura the print quality is also probably gonna be the same okay um so the bracket is right here let's see where do we continue to do sorry the well they actually did not stop the development but they are really slow on developing at the moment and this is I don't know you you pay 150 bucks for the software and you are expecting that they gonna release new things quite soon but at the moment it's not working the only thing we're simplified really is really worth buying if you have complex models where you need lots of support structure the support structure itself is really nice and simplified 3d and you can add support structure where it needs to be and well just deleted where you where it's not necessary and this is this is a big plus which cannot be done in cura or in simply our analyzer okay um so we have fixed the brackets in Stewart the pipe so I guess we are already almost done with the with the assembly process so the thing what they are asking for at the moment is that we insert the the feed pipe which is the the bottom tube into the feeder and I will be doing that but there is some dirt in here yeah just put this in here and these all the cables and that's basically it for the assembly process so okay let's see I think we will just get the the electronics box put the spool holder on the electronics box and then plug in all the wires yeah we have to tighten some some of the rollers because the bed is really wobbly at the moment yeah and the extruder is fine and it's working it's running really smooth but the bed is well yeah not usable at in this state so I guess you're able to see this I'll get the electronics box yeah there are quite a couple of slicers who are catching up and I also think that Prusa with their processor control they are doing a good job and I don't know I have the feeling that they will be implementing implementing well manual supports quite soon I don't know I would hope that they would do that because this would be more competition for simplified and they might also continue developing the soft software further okay so the the spool holder is directly on the electronics box but the threads which are on here are yeah they are filled with with paint so it's not it's not that easy yeah there is a QR code right here for the I guess reality Facebook page okay so another thing which I have heard about the zero 10s is that they have upgraded the board and the software in the printer so the board now features the connector for the filaments filament remote sensor and it does now include bootloader saw flashing custom modern firmware and isn't the problem or shouldn't be a problem with this machine I guess then I'll check that out quite soon because just the recent release of Marlin it's it's really good and I also want to have the custom Marlin running on that machine as I also have it already running on my other co 10 the modded one okay so um on the harness right here we have several wires and they are all labeled with these yellow clips so yeah you see these clips right here for example this one says Z so you should directly know where they need to be plugged in okay so there is a long cable for the z-axis which is probably for the other side and let's see and let's just clarify that we don't miss anything this is why and why why does it say why this okay that's maybe just start so this is the first one if there's y and y a bit confusing but just on the size of the of the connector you can directly see that this is for the stepper motor and the other one is for the end stop okay so first ones in yeah we will do these ones in the end so this harness has three wires so this is X X and stop and the extruder so these ones they go in here no matter no and [Music] don't mix everything sit up so X this goes in here to do okay I think this is this is fine and the last one is for the end stop which I allude this is okay so the end stub needs to be connected in here and with the new cover well if you if your fingers are too big I guess it's probably hard to put that in there ignore my time so um I actually don't know what the temperature of the bed of the puja currently is because I have disconnected the bed temperature sensor and put a thermistor directly into the into the water bath using this channel and this is set to 62 degrees Celsius which is I added a small calibration it should equal a water temperature of 56 degrees so a really nice medium steak which we might get quite soon okay where do we continue so this just says break the material check line I don't know what that means but I think this is probably for the filament run out sensor yeah so this goes in here I really need to check how this is okay this is just slid on okay not the worst okay so this just slides on here yeah I think I think the the filament Ronald sensor is a really nice a nice upgrade for the machine because if you're printing big models and you are not 100% sure if your filament is enough for the print this might save you quite some trouble but I don't know how that works and none of my printers already have that feature so we'll test that out later okay so Z and this right here is also seized so we have two well harnesses for the z-axis the shorter one which also includes the the end stop which goes on this side right here and the long one goes on the others other side okay so I think you can also connect a filament run-out sensor to octo print so directly to the Raspberry Pi which then would work I use octoprint quite a lot for my Pusa but I haven't been using it so far for the seer 10 so usually I really just directly print from from sd card so the filament sensor should work there so one thing which I don't like about the setup is that you have all of these wires right here in the back just dangling around and they can get trapped somewhere and I don't know so to make this look even nicer or to have a nicer printer I would really prefer to have the electronics box somewhere for example below below the printer and then nicely rounded wire wires directly to the box because this is it's just takes it takes a quite a lot of space what donations are disabled why are donations disabled wait a second donation settings just give me one second okay I think I think donations should be enabled now I have stream labs running for the first time now because I think it's quite nice because everything you donate is a hundred percent going into my pocket and that's YouTube does get a 30 percent cut like with the how do you say with the super chats so if you want to donate something you stream laps rather than rather than the super chat and it helps me out Benny what do you mean with screaming - you mean that when you are when you are running your z-axis that you get this loud crying noise from like vibrations in the axis or are you talking about something else okay um so last thing is just that we need to plug in the we need to plug in the the aerospace or aircraft style connectors to the back of the electronics box they have a small notch on the inside so you can't screw up the polarity okay second one and I guess we are all set okay I guess we are all set if you want to do some some cosmetic things you can add the inserts into the rails but we don't do that we rather need to take a look at the printbed because this is still really really wobbly but there are some there are some eccentric nuts below the print bed which we can tight an end there should be yeah there are tools for that included hi to Spain hi to Bangkok okay yeah thank you for thank you for the thumbs up I don't know where we actually stand at the moment so a hundred and forty people are watching this is nice but I don't see any other stats at the mall did you okay um so um we I'll just use this tool and tighten tighten up the nuts below the table let's see okay you you need to be you need to pay attention that you don't over tighten the rotors because otherwise they will wear out prematurely so yeah I just I go from roller to Roman and if you are able to turn the roller by hand you know that they are not pre tensioned properly so then just rotates the eccentric not a little bit and see if yeah now it has drag and the third one okay no it's fine so if we move this thing this is just the flex of the rollers but this is totally fine it moves quite smooth that's also the x-axis is tight so there is no need to tightening it right here and these rollers they are all also okay all right perfect okay um what I'll be doing at first is I'll remove the piece of glass which is on the printbed and we'll also check if the piece of glass is is flat because there are quite a couple around who have the problem that their piece of glass which came with their Co 10 is totally crooked hey number one number two okay where are we yeah we are okay um yeah that's just tighten up a little and then I'll take a ruler and we'll look if it's straight or not so yeah let's see it's not it's not like perfectly flat but the bed of my precise way worse okay no this is fine so the piece the piece of glass which was delivered with my machine is totally flat I guess so I'm not a huge fan of the of the painters tape what I'll be doing and what I really like about or what really works well on these last bets which are also removable is this print adhesion spray it's called from a printer Pro a I think Austrian company and I I often use this on my on my other seer 10 it lasts like forever it sticks so good when it's hot and as soon as the bed cools down your prints just pop off at least at least for 40 lei okay um but before we do that let's just clean the bed with some isopropanol and so everybody who has well just joins hello and there see there's going to be something to eat later when we do the test print which I hope will be quite soon I have I have modded my my Prusa temporarily modded my pro so that it can be used as a stupid confirm last stream we made some really nice pulled pork sandwiches this week there is something different so what I use is the spray I don't use the spray if the glasses on the bed take the glass somewhere else put it on the floor put some put some newspaper below it and then just spray the little bit okay so now we have now we have a nice pink coat of a nice thin coat of this spray on our heat pad and this will prevent hopefully prevent the parts from getting loose alright so let's remove this I don't know if all stepper motors are running in the right direction I haven't turned the printer on but this is something we will do right now because we are done with the assembly process okay there is a little USB to micro SD adapter also delivered with the machine with probably some some sample prints on it which I guess we'll use to print out a sample let's just slide that in always make sure always make sure that your that your machine is set to the right voltage it says 230 wolves on mine so this is the right setting for for Germany at least so I think we are all set to get it running sorry yeah I already moved removes the fall from the display i I should have said that before it's it's something which is so satisfying alright so I'll be back okay um yeah let's let's turn it on and see if it works okay yeah it looks good okay um yeah let's just clean up the table a little something we also need to do before we start it is to a a bed leveling let's see let's maybe change the camera okay um so this is working well prepare control language print from SD so what we want to do at first is maybe do a homing cycle just to see what happens and if all the the access go into the right direction so I choose Auto home X is working why is working and the z-axis also seems to be working so this is this is quite nice all right let's see no maybe I shouldn't go that close to the microphone bad auto-leveling I guess even though it says auto-leveling I think it's just a leveling wizard but let's try that out okay so what the lever li leveling wizard does is it will go from corner to corner to corner to corner and you just use a piece of paper to slide under the nozzle and level the bed this way so let's let's take one of these now I put it under the nozzle and it just wait until it grabs and now it just grabs and say next step goes to the next column and you are doing the same thing again Thank You Zack it's really nice for the promotion yeah I'm quite happy that I how many are we at the moment let's check the stats 150 people so I'm really happy that that you guys use your weekends and spending you're spending it with me right here how do you appreciate that so ideally you would actually do this this leveling procedure with a hot nozzle and and a hot bath but I think for the first print this is going to be fine okay and probably do this and probably do this twice all around all around the printbed because here come on because changing one of the one of the other corners will also have an influence on on the ones which you have already done so doing it twice is it's the best thing okay so this is not a little too close okay this is fine let's go next corner it's also too close okay this is good yeah this is also good and the last one okay fine nice it will go to the center now but I don't really care about the center it's fine and there is no way to directly adjust the nozzle height in the center so yeah I guess this is fun yeah taking a look at that oh yeah so the the the tension of the belt that is also one thing you should really take a look at but this is fine the y-axis is also fine so I'll just go with that for the moment yeah let's just rise the let's just drive the z-axis a little that we can feed some filament ha ha ha I have already seen bad things because when I was lifting the z-axis it did quite some weird things back there ok I guess first problem already encountered alright so yeah what we will probably do is the following so I guess so the problem is now we have two lead screws for for the z-axis one on the left and one on the right but the initial position in the initial position they need to be straight and this cannot be guaranteed out of the box so what I will be doing is I'll use some some calipers to make sure that the distance right here to the to the base is the same and also on this side to the base is the same okay also something else which I encountered with my normal Co 10 the the nuts on the z-axis they are not properly fixed so yeah check this yeah so but in order to do that we need to turn the Machine off because otherwise I am NOT able to rotate the steppers let's just do it this way so it's pretty much straightforward so I put this on here just my normal calipers check the height and yeah okay this was the wrong direction so I put this on there look every don't look thing place third time okay okay this is come on did I miss something okay and now I'll do exactly the same on the other side and I already see that there is a height difference of like two millimeters so I don't just manually move the z-axis upwards which is not working oh come on okay so this is basically the same problem I also had on on my other seer 10 and that really bothers me because so the thing is now the thing is now that I cannot level this properly at the moment because it will just go down on the other side by itself I'll just what I will be the triangles is open the eccentric nut on one side if I find my tools where did I put my tools so the the Prusa method is not working on every printer the Pusa printer they have a specific end stop but the certain I don't know where it would crash into so I think it's not a good idea to just do it on this one okay okay okay so I lose this just a little let's just make sure that right here we are on the same height again this is okay this is fine let's see if we are also able to do that right here no not working okay this really is bad because if we if we don't do that the problem is that the printhead will always be a little crooked and one side of the novel and one side of the nozzle will always drag over the the print bed and that's not that's just not good so um yeah I need to see open some nuts and see if we can straighten everything out okay okay so let's see well lowering the other side would also not help because then we would have this the same issue I that's I think that's fine now so yeah so I just I just open the nuts on this side the t-nuts and this allowed me to rotate this a little this is also this is also tied and we should be we should be on the same height norm yeah it's not perfect but it's it's way better than before okay but this means that we will need to do another run of bed leveling see [Music] okay okay first corner level [Music] second one second one is also level yeah better bed leveling is something you should really do thoroughly because otherwise you will get into quite some trouble okay third corner also level [Music] okay and the fourth one is also fun okay I think so the next step will be to just load some filament and see if that works again I'll be moving the z-axis up a little yeah I think now it was better okay and we will preheat the printer 4p lame so this will start heating up the nozzle and also heating the print bed let's see how long that takes so what is also nice to see is that the nozzle is dirty or there is filament on the nozzle so it seems that they are doing some kind of quality control on their parts I don't know how much but it seems as if there was already some some filament which which was run through through the hot end okay let's get some filament I just don't want to use the one which is delivered with the machine let's use the one I like the most I also have already added the filament Ronald sensor and let's just slide some material through here and feed it okay right so the filament I use this is one of the filaments which has the nicest colors I have ever had from more or less III D it's spool words PLA filament good quality which and great color so we are at a hundred and eighty five degrees so let's see yep so um I don't really let's see let's increase the temperature even a little bit more control temperature let's put this to 205 degrees so I'm a huge fan of also printing PLA at temperatures above 200 degrees just for the reason that the that the layer adhesion is way better as if you would print it at well just 185 degrees Celsius I think well it hasn't started yet to heat up the bed it still says like eighteen ninety degrees but we'll wait for that okay so we are at 200 degrees for the nozzle let's just extrude some filaments there we go so um it is purging some some black material which was used for for quality control purposes I guess and in a bit we should start to see the red front line coming out of the nozzle yeah 215 degrees so yeah 215 degrees is quite it's quite a good temperature for most PLA filaments I rarely had one brand of filament which or a PLA filament which did not go to that temperature so I I actually made a video about how your material strength increases if you if you increase the prints temperature so if you are interested in that just check it out in my on my account okay so we have red filament right here I guess we'll just print one of the sample prints let's take a look at the SD card and it just has the CAD model on it but I think I think that's gonna be something good for for just a first print of a of a Chinese printer so I'll select the CAD model we have level 2 bed we have added some material to the printer we have yeah I think we have tightened everything so just let's give it a try and see and see if it works out interesting the interesting thing is that when we when we selected the mode for preheating for PLA it only got to 185 degrees but now with their delivered model they are going all the way up to 205 degrees but just 40 degrees on the bed which seems to be a little low I am actually a mechanical engineer and I do 3d printing also for for my professional work life J thank you for well being here thank you for the moderation and have a great afternoon nights whatever yeah okay we are so the nozzle already reached the temperature now we are heating the bed and we should almost be ready for for the first sample print and then we can start with this let's see okay I'll just move everything emitted to the side we have more space for the other stuff okay 39 we are almost at 40 I'm quite interested to see if we can get our prints to stick at 40 degrees for the degrees on the bed I think we might need to increase the temperature to at least like 50 degrees Celsius okay so we are combing ignore my Chen I have I have been take I've actually been taking a look at the at the bottom two bits it's quite surely a 1.8 millimeter another two millimeter one one of the upgrades I think I might be doing on this printer is to use one of the Capricorn so the real precise inner diameter precise inner diameter round tubes to just decrease the the slack a little it's it's not a banshee so we are printing one of the sample models which were on the SD card and this is the the typical Chinese Chinese cat guys please please stick to please stick to English yeah I'll be I'll be zooming in a little I'll be with you it's a Japanese cats I'm sorry Hey just give me one second okay there we go it's printing and it looks quite nice so at the moment it's printing the the raft which goes under the cat I don't know how long it will take in the end but yeah let's see let's see how the first layers look like and then we might be continuing with some foodstuff there is a reason why this channel is called CNC kitchen if you guys have any any questions on the printer just yeah put it put it into the comments and I'll try to answer them as good as possible m'kay WRA or however you are pronounced well they wanted to send me a TiVo printer but I rejected due to the things that happened with TiVo so at the moment I don't have a plan for any tebow printer live streams or working on TiVo's yeah raft so I'm I'm somebody who has printed a lot during the last years but I have rarely been using any rafts with the print services we have at the moment I think it's just not necessary anymore and there are only really really special occasions where you would need a raft so let's go thus this year 10 have the seer 10 s have an improved nozzle I am quite sure that it's exactly the same nozzle and exactly the same heat block and is exactly the same heat sink as the normal seer 10 so I think there's no change Deniz do you have any coupon codes for gear s yeah they're all there is a coupon code for the seer 10 s down in the description if you want to buy something mr. jelly I have never tried the clip of firmware I have read something about about it just I think at the beginning of this week but I haven't tried it out so far there is I don't know I don't know if it's worth it m'kay m'kay WR why is this better than a serum so better it is better in a way that it has a dual c-axis so you don't run into the problem that your z-axis might be crooked then the heat bed is isolated so it should not take such a long amount of time to heat up then we have the filament run out sensor which is I in my opinion a really nice feature for such a big ball volume printer is there a turbo button there is no turbo button but I you can you can scale the you can scale the print speeds we maybe do that later [Music] Peter so which laughs thank you that guy wait a second thank you thank you for the five bucks which Liza to do I prefer so I print most of my models on my on my Pusa and for the Prusa I mostly use just slicer and that's working very well and it's well especially useful for the photo Pusa we have we have a an Ultimaker at work so there I have to use Cora but for most of the really for the stuff where I need to do lots of customizing I need to I'm usually using simplify 3d and also for models who need a lot of support structure ignore my Chen does it run the latest firmware I don't know if it runs the latest firmware I don't know if they are firmware updates available for the C return I probably need to check that out it's it's I think it's a difference of it's different firmware than the normalcy return what happened to TiVo so yeah TiVo was bribing Tom son laravel quite some months ago loved he whoa okay sorry I'm lagging a little behind [Music] clipper hey Mike yeah thank you for joining we are almost done well we are we're not almost done to be honest because there's still something there's still something in here and since I think this print will still take some time it will still take some time there might be some time to to get something to eat and I'm getting hungry I was just taking a look at I was just taking a look at the print and it's it seems to be lifting off the raft a little I don't know I think I'll be increasing the extrusion multiplier and Laidlaw I hope that it yeah it doesn't get loose no I like so much behind and changing [Music] okie-dokie I I don't know if I will post I will post a review of the printer because there are already plenty of reviews around but I have but I have some project projects planned for the printer for example printing an RC airplane I don't know if that if I have the time to do that but there's some some stuff coming out but I don't know I don't think that I'll do a specific review on it okay please be kind in jet and chat and if you aren't kind of jet I will I will need to ban you and this goes specifically out to mkw or ah or however you are called maybe let's talk about noise a little so it's definitely not a quiet printer there is some noise that's especially from the electronics box but I have a little the feeling that it's a little quieter than the other one but still not as quiet as for example the cruiser yeah the the linear access thing so this is something where I'm really interested in I don't know maybe for the other CRM that I have where I have also installed the Titan Aero extruder I might be I might be adding a linear rail just to see if that improves the printing quality because the rollers are well not the best [Music] Frank thank you thank you very much for the 10 bucks it's highly appreciated thank you Peter do I prepare the Prusa over the seer 10 s yes I think I do but the applications are different in my opinion the the seer 10 is something for printing bigger parts and the Prusa is just a highly reliable machine which works great where you have support where you support the company which works on 3d printing works on improving 3d printing so if you don't if it's not hardly or if it's not a problem for you spending some bucks more and you don't need to have the the big print volume definitely go for the Prusa I gotta be honest there have I worked with filament run-outs sensors no I haven't worked with any filament runout sensors before and this is something I'm really interested in and which is in my opinion well suited for it for such a printer because if you are doing big models you run this printer overnight and if your if your spool of filament runs out the whole print is is bad and this might prevent it so this is this is a great improvement [Applause] okie-dokie yeah I have some I have some stepper dampers right here and I haven't used them so far I really need to take a look at these ones and and see if they are working well and if there is if there might be the problem that they even well decrease the printing quality in well somehow where are we well so photochromic yeah that's the weight of the linear the linear rail but especially it has way less play and this and is just better suited for for such an application [Music] mr. jelly so are you saying that you have problems with your parts sticking on the bed if you directly print on a mirror always make sure that it's that it's well clean and as I have shown before what I really like to use is this it is this adhesion spray all right the fusion spray there are other it's using sprays around and they work very well when printing PLA on a glass bed sometimes it even works too good and it's it's hard to even get your prints off the bed see our 10 versus a gnat a 8 I don't have an innate or Annette a 8 so I can't really do a comparison on those will the seer 10 work with octoprint yeah it will definitely work with octo print so it's just plug-and-play take take a Raspberry Pi put the octopi on the SD card connect the connect octoprint via USB to your control box and you are all set I use up to print on my Prusa and it's it's great it's really great Benny where am i buying my filament so at the moment I don't have to buy for them and anymore because I get lots of filament provided but before I did YouTube and before I got filament sponsored I really liked for example does filament they have reasonably-priced filaments there are plenty of other providers around poly maker just started a new series of poly light filaments there is a review of these coming tomorrow this is great stuff for not too much money is it is it possible to install try Nemec drivers on the seer 10 board no it's not because the drivers are directly soldered soldered on the on the board so this is not working but there are mods around where you add a ramps to the seer 10 and with the REM Sport you can use the silent step sticks [Music] can you send g-codes code files to your printer from your PC using octo print yes and this is one of the great things about octo print if you are using if you are using a slicer for example there's directly a button that you can send your G code to via or using Wi-Fi to your printer works great and there are other solutions to do that as well so everybody who hasn't checked out octo print so far take a look take a look at it it's really worth it Denis it always depends where you from there are there are a couple of manufacturers around who do proper filament I would recommend buying PLA filament which is like 10 10 bucks a kilo but if you are spending 15 20 bucks or even a little bit more you get reasonable very good very good PLA filament so as I said depending on where you live poly maker their poly light PLA is great you have III D with their spool wor works filament series there is Dutch filaments sorry not posh filaments from Patara they are also selling quite reasonably priced PLA filament with great quality and stuff like that Florian yeah I I have the fear that you are riots and this is a hundred percent infill because this is already I don't know which layer but it's still doing infill and I will wait for two more layers and if the printer doesn't stop a printing infill we will sly something on our own nervous yeah I I I think about doing that I think that I might be maybe doing a something like a tutorial video on where we design a fan shroud for for a printer that everybody might be able to do that later on their own well at the moment it's doing infill let's see did I use some food-safe filament yet so there is a always a discussion about whose food-safe filament so there are food-safe filament around filaments around but the problem with 3d printing and being food safe is that your filament will run through your through your feeder through your hot end and stuff like that and can pick up things in there which might not well which might make it not food safe anymore and then there's the problem that's in the small cracks of or in the small layers of your prints if it's if it's wet bacteria really like to grow there so also for one-time use you can probably 3d print foodstuffs good save stuff but I wouldn't 3d print any any dishes or stuff like that [Music] we yeah as I said I will I will be waiting for maybe maybe one layer more and if that doesn't work out we will print something on our own because only printing in fell only printing infill is not the the nicest thing to take a look at let's see but it's still continuing ok so maybe while this is printing why don't we just go into why just don't we go into into simplified 3d and slice a model on our own because yeah we want to see something being printed any suggestions on what we shall print just the Banshee or any other ideas but I think well that's gone thinkers I think we'll go for the banshee where is the original one there we go cane 3e Benxi save file we are still printing infill you have the death trooper it's nice but it just might take too long okay let's let's load the 3d Banshee I will use the configuration assistance to create a new profile soak reality seer turn next finish H so there we go Center and arranged okay let's take a look at the settings extrusion multiplier I'll put that to one upon two millimeter layer height three solid layers two shells temperatures 60 degree bed that's fine 210 degrees for twenty ten degrees for nozzle that's also fine speeds forty millimeters a second that's for grandmas so we'll go to sixty and yeah I think we are all set let's prepare the print the g-code yeah photochromic that's also a thing which I'm not a huge fan of so checking tolerances these printers are should all be reasonably precise and usually the difference of a part which is too big or it's too little it's the extrusion multiplier and so yeah as I said I'm I'm just not a fan of printing calibration cues does it really start printing look the walls you could be right I think it got scared with me slicing slicing a model let's see [Music] he has a hollow model why are they okay yeah well I think we will we will print something on our own because looking at this cat is is not so not the greatest thing okay um yeah as I said I will be I'll be stopping the print at at this point and we will be printing we will be printing a banshee Mike I think I think the the model is actually hollow so it's printing like a hundred percent thick walls but the STL file itself was all it was already hollow okay so yeah I stopped the print I'll just grab the SD card and probably will be a crypto minor in a second as soon as I plug this into my PC and we will save the 3d Banshee to the printer okay let's take it out again plug it in I'll remove the existing prints there we go and print from SD 3d Ben GG coats okay so this is the base of the cat I think we would not really have had much much fun with it so yeah let's just let's just put this away ignore my channe actually so YouTube tells me that the stream health is fine it shouldn't be me who started stuttering sorry maybe my voice is stuttering but this is not due to connection because this time I'm not streaming over Wi-Fi I am plugged in via a network cable ok so we are heating up again the bed is at 49 degrees Celsius and the nozzle is at 200 okay see we should be there in a bit but yeah so the heat up time is not way faster than before with the and with the insulation of the bed but it seems that it is better than it that it was before see and I'm to be honest I'm getting I'm getting hungry a little so we need to see how the food is but yeah we'll wait for for a second more and then we then I'll continue with the food Antonio so these gray panels right here these are pavers so concrete pavers and they more or less insulates the vibrations of the printer from the table and it makes the printers so quiet I also made a video about this some time ago but if you have problems with a loud loud printer going through your hardware store buy one of these concrete pavers and you will be so happy Aaron yeah there is there is some food cooking there and we will or I will reveal I answered I will reveal that in in just a second when the printer is going again but yeah so tell me and it's changed the camera angle again so it's homing quad awesome what time is it for me so for me it's 7 p.m. at the moment so I am getting hungry okay this looks good yeah unfortunately so now we are printing printing a banshee unfortunately there is some gunk at the at the nozzle which I might be trying to remove well don't bother [Music] okay maybe let's clean up a little that we have enough space for the food wait yeah so as I said there was some gunk at the nozzle yeah I'm sorry about that but only the the bottom layers might look a bit a bit bad the bed is actually level as I said there was some some filament left over which which is remaining now at the front of the of the Banshee but this will be gone in like two or three layers [Music] okie-dokie no I have unfortunately not leveled the printer when it was hot but you you should usually do that Brian so yeah uh this is the problem with these with these bottom spotter systems they are so compliant and the material is more or less a spring which is in the Bowden tube and when you stop a print and you do not reject any filament this material which is like a spring in the Bowden tube will just be pushed into the hot end and you will you will get lots of drooping but looks fun [Music] Dennis no I don't have the Ruby nozzle I was thinking about buying one but yeah I didn't invest the what is it like a hundred bucks yet or I think 85 [Music] yeah Ross you are totally right and actually the stop script which is in the model inform where in here is horrible because sometimes it even does not turn off the the bed and the nozzle so everything stays born then she looks really nice [Music] okay I will be back in a second I'll just wash my hands and then we will do the process to lead cooking or revealing the processor [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] I am back did I miss anything dinner time yes should you buy the Ruby nozzle well I don't know I don't think that the prince will we will be way better with the Ruby nozzle if you are only printing with really abrasive materials it might be a good thing looking into such a nozzle but also the hardened steel ones are quite fine so my opinion if you're only printing normal PLA it's not worth okay um here we are so um let's see how I can adjust that salt pepper [Music] a baking tray the original CNC kitchen t-bone cutting board and yeah so just to clarify I'm very sorry for all the vegetarians right now but I am hungry and the Prusa is cooking some really nice food there please don't hit the thumbs-up button a thumbs down button if you don't like eating meat but for everybody else we will get something to eat or at least I will be getting something to eat maybe let's see that you can also see what I'm doing so what I have right here is I have a pot of water on the heat pad I have broken out a temperature sensor which is connected instead of the netsensor of the printer and this is regulating the temperature of the water right here in the bath and and in this bath and in this bath we have a steak which is vacuum-sealed with some herbs we will get that out of its back sear it and then have something to eat yes I said don't hate me for that but I am hungry I have well I have already been streaming for two hours so please also give me a rest if they are if there are some of you around who also would like to know how the crews are sweet sweet mod works yeah let me know I might be posting a video about that and also maybe hit the like button if you if you are really envy but right now okay Kaesong this is our steak so the the temperature of the water bath was selected that I now have a totally medium-rare steak and this is the nice thing about about sous-vide cooking that you can't overcook your your food and that doesn't only work with meat you can also do like sweet dishes with it you can do really nice really nice vegetable things with it the only thing with sous-vide cooking is that the food is totally mushy when it comes out of the out of the suite bath so we have to sear it out yes searing the food means that you either put it on your grill you either put it on your grill or in a clock pan since I don't have that in my office I'll just be using a a burner there is the reason why this channel is called CNC kitchen because you can you can do CNC to put your food okay okay okay I could laser engrave as big yeah you all right yeah sorry again for all the vegetarians just look away for a second [Music] but I am having something [Laughter] [Music] sorry sorry for the hat yeah I guess since this is printing no I all l have something to eat if you guys have any questions please please post them in the comments if you guys also like really good food give the video a thumbs up [Music] hey I am still alive I am still alive [Music] [Music] yeah just just stop by and just stop by and if I'm not finished yet with the steak you can have some Cheers hmm that is some really good beer beer and food [Music] so the been she does look okay at the moment I see some retraction artifacts yeah we'll see how it turns out in the end but up to now it's working okay so are there any more questions you were having viewers viewers dropped down to 150 I don't know if these were the vegetarians sorry for that I don't know how do we how do we stand with with likes on the video I don't see this at the moment did you all they were hungry yeah [Music] printers doing fine [Music] or dislikes mr. jelly yeah nice to hear I'm happy that that you're here tennis working yeah I'm outside [Music] so there are probably some modifications I gonna be doing to the Serie ten and I don't know maybe I'll be adding another hot end but I'm not sure if this is really necessary I might be adding some tighteners or tensioners for the X and y-axis pelts that I can make sure that they are always properly tied I will be trying out the the filament round sensor if that works if that works properly if that seems to be okay yeah the only thing or one of the things which is which is left is upgrading the firmware because I want to I want to run I want to run the normal Marlin on there because it has some really nice features like linear advanced and stuff like that which is really good for fast printing yes must smash the like button now it really helps me out because YouTube is from is especially promoting videos that get lots of interactions so comments are great if you guys hit the like button or even the dislike button YouTube knows that there is something going on in this video which might be interesting for guys even if it's positive or negative and they're promoting this in these videos and I still have like 80% of the views I get on my videos are from from people who are not subscribed and if they see that I am regularly delivering content they might subscribe to me and this is just opening me a even wider audience which is great [Music] Thank You mr. Joe boo I'm still working on my on my food [Music] [Music] how do you think 3d printers will be in 10 years this is this is kind of a tough question because one thing which happened during the last years it is that 3d printing got less expensive and therefore easier well wider spread and easier available currently what you're seeing is that there's more and more intelligence put into the printers like filament run-out Auto leveling and stuff like that where will it be in the future I hope that it gets even well wider spread I hope that the applications we'll get will get wider so that it's not only used to print a bunch of banshees but then it is really used to print to print spare parts for things which which break it home I don't know if this is like decentralized so everybody has a 3d printer at home or if they're are relieved well established 3d printing services out there where you can order cheap and easily available spare parts this is something I'm really hoping [Music] [Music] [Music] well 3d printing is still something which not everybody is willing to do and I highly understand that well me as an engineer I really like tinkering I really like working with such a machine I really like that I now have finally the opportunity to directly print out my cat designs which before it just wasn't able if you did not have a a CNC and CNC skills and stuff like that but today it's it's great what what you can achieve with 3d printing and more and more materials come on the market which have better prop properties than the ones which we well used to use and with better materials also the usability for 3d prints will get bigger so you will have the possibility to print proper spare parts to print parts which can handle temperature which are impact-resistant and stuff like that and yeah this is this is great [Music] well mark 4ch printers are pretty awesome and super strong they are yes yes and no with their continuous fiber printer you can do some really nice stuff but if they are only stiff in the direction where the continuous fibers lie and if you do not design your parts in a way that you can really use this disadvantage your parts also won't be that strong and these printers are horribly expensive I think a kilo of continuous carbon fiber is like a thousand bucks so this is something not everybody well wants to invest in by photochromic nice having you here see you again next time [Music] [Music] it was really interesting so I wasn't at CES but what you heard was that there were way less well people showing their their 3d printing stuff on the on C or at CES which shows that the market kind of got cleaned a little bit from the cheap companies who are not sustainable and well which which did not really work and now there are still out there the companies who who have a good product who marketed their product the proper way and are able to provide proper printer for the future yeah the IRA the IRA 3d printer is is really interesting so I have seen so I have I have seen the video that Joel made and I have been at for next at TCG for next last year seeing like Mark force they do not now have a metal printer desktop metal they have something but I don't know with the sintering process in the binary process it's quite complex and you did not really see that many parts but the IRA 3d process looks really unexpensive the machine is totally cheap the materials they are using are cheap and I really hope that they are able to produce a proper machine and that they're able to tune in them the printing settings that you get nice parts out of it and I think this might be this might be really a step forward into inexpensive 3d printing metal 3d printing [Music] Nicholas so yeah the process already it's already empty so we made some sous-vide steak with it but I'm already eating it so sorry you're too late but you can scroll back a little just like maybe 15 to 20 minutes and there you can see what we made [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] penny what do I think of our saliva on well he he is able to promote products quite well and I am NOT saying more water food slog and experience with tungsten carbide nozzles no actually not but I have a normal times nozzle from a Kickstarter like two years ago it was made by DVD material it was working okay but the quality was just not spot-on and I think they are not selling it anymore I think taking a look at carbon tungsten carbide the problem might be that the thermal conductivity of the material is not high enough to get proper prints in the end even though it's it's wear resistant it might not be suitable for for such a 3d printer if you well if you are working with abrasive filaments take a look at take a look at the hardened steel nozzles they are there they're very good just don't buy the stainless steel ones they're crap [Music] know anything about the formlabs fuse one so I was I was hoping to see some really nice parts from the fuse one last year at at fall next but unfortunately they did not have a working printer there there were two other companies one is called sin solids and the other one is called I don't know who are also who we're also selling SLA machines at a reasonably low price like starting from 5000 bucks and SLA is great as well is great can produce parts which have really good properties you do not need to care to you do not need to worry about support structure and stuff like that but the problem is that even though in theory the process is very very simple it becomes quite complex in the end because you have to heat your build chamber the whole build volume to really constant temperature and stuff like that so yeah I have seen some parts I have been touching some parts but they were not yet as good as the machines or the parts you get from an elitist machine for example which but which are like a hundred or two hundred thousand euros [Music] aashiq is is your glass plate being scratched by the nozzle or when you remove it if it's stretched by a nozzle we level your bed your nozzle is too close to the to the to the mirror or to the glass plate if you scratch it with your spatula round off the corners of your spatula maybe use something different but I wouldn't be too worried about scratches in the plate it might actually even increase the the adhesion on the bed [Music] [Music] [Music] mr. jelly what is the problem with a stainless-steel nozzles the problem with stainless steel nozzles is that at first the thermal conductivity of well stainless steel is really bad so you do not get all of the heat from the heater block indirectly into the nozzle they are not as wear resistant as hard nozzles so yeah there is no really benefit in using these use hardened steel ones or just the normal brass ones [Music] [Music] then your prints are always lifting from the printbed so yeah 50 degrees is not enough I would recommend if you have problems to go up to 60 don't go way higher than that and if you're still having problems blue stick or you can also get adhesion spray or in adhesion sticks for example from eclipta Pro or I have another one right here which is called cystic which is also just like something solved an acetone which looks like a sticky layer behind but what he also can always get is like a print tag file on your print bed if you have really serious problems but clean your bed properly with isopropanol if they're still not working adhesion sprays or an adhesion foil [Music] [Music] yeah Hugo's all us also right the first layer is very important if your first layer doesn't stick to the print bed it will get ripped loose so thick first layer to compensate for a not perfectly level bed even a little bit of over extrusion in the first layer so increase your extrusion with on the first layer this will help you with your part sticking to the bed [Music] but I did votives where are you [Music] what else do we have yeah hairspray is also something you can use [Music] okay so yeah if the thermal connectivity of tacks and carpet is really that high it might be it might be it might be a good thing I have seen that you can buy tungsten carbide nozzles on on Alibaba or on on eBay but I have never used any of them before I'm still very happy with my original III D nozzles so here only use hairspray if you have a removable pad if you don't have a removable pads please don't use hairspray because this will get on your linear rails and everywhere else which just makes everything worse if you have that problem try using a print foil try using like sticks you can just more or less yeah put on your bed and take a look at your first layer DMC 3d hello everyone you are quite late we are almost finished I have almost eaten all of my steak the Banshee is growing and growing it looks pretty good as I said there are some extrusion artefacts on the surface but yeah looks fun mark tech in which city am i living so I live in southern Germany somewhere between Lindo and Munich that tells you something totally in the countryside [Music] still 150 people right here thank you very much for spending all of your time with me he'll CT why didn't you say that you will you will be assembling a seer 10 a chic what tools and paints are using for your giving better appeal to 3d printed parts so if you print with ABS you can always very smooth if you don't want to print with ABS there is the poly smooth material from poly maker which you can smooth with isopropanol just use a thick filler on your 3d printed parts to get rid of the layer lines send it a little bit and then paint it and you can get the look just like as injection molded part yeah then the 100% fr means one honey I think it means 100% T great so this is the I think this should be the extrusion multiplier so if you see that you have under extrusion you can increase this a little but I also might be wrong it might also be the speed at which it's wet at which it's printing so how much have we already done so we are at 55% of the bench is still looking very good it's in fact the speed multiplier okay thanks for the info we can give that a try I'll just turn that up too yeah so now I have increased it to like a hundred and sixty-six percent and it's way faster but I will put it back to 100% [Music] a geek is asking if this channel is my full-time job or if it's just my hobby so yeah it's it's definitely my hobby it doesn't pay it doesn't really add nearly pay the bills so in my normal life I am a 100% working mechanical engineer and this is more or less my my hobby which I do at the weekends or or at night maybe let's change the camera a little it's not so boring for you [Music] hey guys yeah filament extruding is also something quite interesting I don't think that it's really reasonable for any hobbyists to extrude their own filament because it's just too expensive I don't know if there might be an extruder somewhere in the future where you can just pour pellets in Aaron what itself was so so servos is a variant introduction to say hello which comes from the Latin word cells which means slave I don't know it's just something you say but but about filament extruding also when I was at for next I have seen a really interesting company I think it is it's a Dutch company called 3d Evo and they had a Kickstarter awhile ago and they are producing small filament extruders and filament recycling machines which could be used to create your own filament but you can buy quite a lot of filament rolls for the for the price of one of these machines but I think for for universities it's really interesting because they can create their own material blends their own polymer blends for for research on such a small machine that's really nice then yeah I did some tutorials on fusion 360 you can also find them in my video list there will be more in the future there is probably one coming up quite soon hey Benjamin what do you say simplify 3d is not developed anymore is it that no it's not that I don't know the development process at the moment is just very slow there has been version 4 released at the end of last year but it's just there's not much coming and that's really unfortunate are you planning on reviewing the Citiz 3d I don't have a Cetus 3d so I don't know if I will be doing a review on that printer and to be honest there are plenty of guys around or other channels around who do printer reviews and I don't want to be one of the channels who is only doing printer reviews - well get sales with their affiliate links and make money with that that's not the purpose why I'm doing why I'm doing YouTube Benjamin cut power there is no cut power function with with the sear 10s there is a filament run odd function which we actually might could actually try maybe so I'm back I think it would be quite boring to just to just wait until this thing is finished so there is a new feature the filament rod sensor on that machine and I think it would be nice just try out and see if it works because this is one of the new features and why not try it out if this rules are print well the stream is over but yeah I think I think we could do deal with that so what I will be doing the filament sensor is right here I don't know if you have to configure it to work but I'll just snip off the filament and we'll see if the printer will stop and if we can't continue with the printer so yeah cross your fingers oops okay so I think it tripped I think it tripped the sensor but well let's see so there is no more filament going into into the printer let's see if it stops I hear something clicking so it stopped and it tells me arrow changed filaments okay how do I do that I don't know it should just be a manual process so I took the the leftovers out and let's just say hello to film it back into the printer and see if it continues and see if we can change if you can see where it it paused another thing is so what it did it will actually turn off the bed and also turn off the extruder which is which can be bad because if you have something like I am having right here on the printhead this spray which helps material sticking to the bed it will lose its sticking properties as soon as it cools down okay so I added new filament let's see how I can continue says resume print okay so I selected resume print it says heating again so it will heat up it will heat up the the nozzle again to 210 degrees and the print bath to 60 degrees but as I said this is this can be bad so it works let it stops but there is the possibility that you will you lose your print you too well it's just not sticking anymore to the bed Paulo Fred any thoughts on hobbyking value brand filaments so I have one roll of their filament right here which I bought some time ago it prints but it's it's not the best I was thinking about so I'm currently doing this filament test series another video also coming out tomorrow I did I do I'm doing the test series and I'm thinking about trying to test the most the cheapest filament out there and at the moment the cheapest filament I I think I can get is the hobbyking one if you guys know if there is even a cheaper brand of PLA out there I can get here in Germany please let me know I really would like to try the cheapest PLA filament there is and see how how it prints how the material properties are and stuff like that okay so there is some material losing out I just remove that [Music] okay and now it resumes with the print why is it black yeah no continues so what I did I just added new filament and now it well continues with the print [Music] did the z-axis lock when I changed the filament yes I think the steppers were still on and it would be really bad if it wouldn't because with the weight of the x axis the z axis will just drop down otherwise and so yeah height rock tips hello to to green card did I ever do something with medical 3d printing yes and no it's it's an interesting topic but with all the regulations and stuff like that it's hard to at least here in Germany and I also think in the u.s. it's hard to get into the medical sector with 3d printing because there are so many regulations there are so many things you need to do before you can apply 3d printing there that there might be still some time to come until young until it's fully usable but there is definitely the potential and especially in yeah in in third-world countries where it's hard to get prosthetics and stuff like that I think 3d printing might be a really good possibility to give to give people things back which otherwise they would not get Hill City yes I think the stringing is from the filament changing and I think there's yeah there's just there's a slide step which you can see but this might be okay if you think about if you would otherwise lose the complete print [Music] mega making so you you buy your $5 PLA filament it's Taobao I don't know what or who that is so if you could provide a link or something like that I would really be interested to find the cheapest 3d printing filament out there yeah she I think this is a a perfect application for 3d printing because well you don't do directly something on the patient but you can help a doctor well before before he cut somebody open - well well just help him help him find out how the patient looks from the inside Laurie and yeah I think the minimum layer time is kicking in I think it is set to 15 seconds let me see yes it's set to 50 seconds 15 seconds thanks mega making [Music] well we are already 73 74 percent finished so yeah 15 more minutes 20 maybe people are already living yeah well it's not the most entertaining thing to take a look at the Banshee which is printed but still a hundred and forty-three people still here it's crazy and now I have lost chance we where are we [Music] [Music] Gregg would you please do something on liquid extruders I am actually thinking about getting a a clay extruder because I want to do some some 3d printed pottery so yeah maybe maybe there would be something in the future I don't know [Music] yeah so I think before this thing is finished and it will still take a little but what am i what are my thoughts on the printer so it was easy to assemble if you just assembled the printer it takes maybe half an hour it comes nicely packed to be honest no pots were flying around nothing what I have seen so far is pens but I also had a problem with the ZX is not being parallel to the print bed and this is something which is well just not okay I need to fiddle around with with the Machine a little bit more after the stream and see what things I need to do to make it properly printing but yet it's a decent printer I think the upgrades are nice the isolated pair is good the filament run out sensors seem to be working I I'm not unhappy with that it doesn't have a bed leveling sensor i I'm very honest and I say I prefer in manually level debt over a automatically level pad it is a little loud just as the normal seer 10 it has a big print volume which I think not everybody needs so if you're thinking about buying the seer 10 think about if you need such a big print volume or maybe go for another printer if you maybe have a little a little bit more money to spend think about buying a Prusa I really like their machines even though I don't have a mark three yeah when will be the next live session I don't know when the next live session will be sorry yet replacing replacing the fans is one thing but you really need to pay attention that the fans you are using to replace the existing ones to have the same well volume of air which is blown through them because you you you can add quieter quieter fans but if they are new not sorry if they are not not moving as much air as the stock ones you will get heat problems so really take a look at that Edward can the filament sensor detect James - no it cannot it it's more or less only a micro switch and well it's only a micro switch so it only recognizes if there is no more material there's no more material left yeah no to offense are really good but as I said really pay attention that the amount of air they're moving our well is big enough because otherwise as I said your electronics can overheat [Music] so etransmit you get lost step when steps when you are tightening your your lead school nuts so the reason for that might be that also your z-axis is not is not really parallel to the bed and if there if the the bore of the nut is not in line with the well with the lead screw it will Jam so there might be a reason why they did not tighten its perfectly but just make sure that everything is great everything is perpendicular and then you should not get any any lost steps [Music] my seer 10s is quite a lot quieter than yours well I don't know if this is just because the the microphone is not next to the printer but it's not the quietest printer to be honest as I have said before I think it's a little quieter than the normal seer 10 I'm having but nada you steel power yeah it's or Paul how do you know if your belts are tensioned good enough this is quite hard and I'm also not really sure how you how you can say okay this is tight enough and this is over tied just maybe use it like a guitar string and if you have a nice low tone it's okay if it's really wobbly tighten them a little bit more but definitely do not over tighten them because this will ruin the Baron bearings in your in your stepper motor Benjamin are you are you sure that the seer 10 has a power resume function I'd already want to test that at the moment if there are more that if there are more who say that the printer really has that function I might be trying that in the end but I don't know if I can if I can trust you [Music] yeah post the link if it's not your cheap Chinese online shop thank you who go for the info yeah I don't want to just shut the printer off [Music] yeah I if we will try the power resume function I will be doing that right at the end of the print we have already been spending like like an hour here on the print and it's all it's it's almost time to finish the stream so yeah we'll do that in the end [Music] [Music] [Music] yeah it's almost in the bridging part so is it I think it already started with bridging wait [Music] max I in fact just just send me you can also send me an email you can find the email address in the About section I will be back in a second I just maybe already put some some stuff downstairs from the from the food experiment [Music] okay [Music] so we are we are at the roof now I'll leave it running for you're bridging looks very nice [Music] I will leave the the print running for for another minute or so and then we will see if there's really a power recovery function and if not I think then it's time to just conclude the stream and if you guys are leaving already please don't forget to hit the like button it's it helps me a lot it helps me a lot so yeah if you like what I'm doing a sheep goodnight - I guess India okay so the roof is already printing I [Music] don't know either somebody tricked me into that but somebody said that the printer might have or should have a power recover recovery function the bench is almost finished I think we can already judge the quality of the print from there I will turn off the printer wait for some seconds turn it back on again and I guess it won't be doing anything but somebody said that it might be able to continue printing all right so yeah let's just give it a try five four three two one and go it's quiet it's out and let's see what it does when I turn it back on whoa it really oh ha ha it is asking me resume print yes I want to do that it really worked I thought I thought you guys were tricking me I really thought you guys were tricking me but so the thing is it stated that position may be the z-axis even moved but it asked me to resume the print not bad not bad but it's not the same thing as crew size they are doing so they're lifting the z-axis I think the seer tends just recognized okay I did not finish my last print he still remembers a twitch line it stopped and just continues from there but we'll see him so yeah the nozzle is just heating up we are at 200 degrees and I am quite impressed I am really impressed so we are at 203 205 206 let's see if there are any layer shifts let's see if we can see that so I well I stopped the print when it did a interesting okay so it hopes again at least the x axis and the y axis and now it continues I am really impressed I really did not I really did not expect that it is continuing there might be something to see it I guess I guess the height is not perfect but still if you have a big print and something like that is happening and something like that is happening it might save you quite some trouble [Music] so right in the back you can see where where something happy when something happens but there is a blow-up on the surface but yet words I'm really impressed and Lia's yeah it's magic it's magic I'll be finished I'll be finished in a bit so don't eat the octopus before before I get to you so the print shop should be should be done in a second [Music] slowly and thank you for the five bucks I really I really appreciate that thank you guys for for all of the support yeah I I really have to be honest so this this channel is now like well just a year old I think I actually posted the first video just at the end of January last year and it grew quite well and the the support the support I'm getting is just great it's Chet still working okay so the chimney is already starting ah so still here yeah I've just seen a drop in in in viewers a second ago and I thought maybe something was wrong but yeah it is almost done so chimneys no it's now being printed we are now more or less at the lowest print speed but just yeah just in a minute it will be done [Music] yeah no I would never drink a beer [Laughter] [Music] [Laughter] aashiq I thought I thought you were I thought you were going to sleep you just cannot resist staying here and watching the end of the stream [Music] yeah akiyama's kids beer I need to stay focused but I gotta be honest I somehow noticed that talking English is becomes easier when you drink like one or two beers as soon as you start with the third comes it becomes it becomes harder again so yeah you need to find the right amount [Music] yeah chic we will be done we will be done quite soon so that the chimney is just at the end I give it like two or three more minutes cat blue I have to see her 10 where can I get the steer 10's board I don't know wait where you can get CR 10's port but I think Aliexpress or even gearbest they might be selling those as a replacement but it might be a good idea to add a rumble with silent step sticks to the seer 10 because then you even have a quieter print better stepper drivers and stuff like that I don't know so I think the power of the power out function might actually even only be a feature of Marlin you need to check that out maybe you don't even need a new board for that tips on how to learn German yeah try to speak it come to Germany we are nice guys and girls and yeah just just just speak [Music] [Music] so almost done and for everybody who is just joining so there are some artifacts on our on our banshee but we have tried to functions of the CNS so at first we tried the filament runout sensor which was right here where we see this small artifact and up here we have tried the power outage function so I turned on the printer oh sorry I turn off the printer and it resumed printing just at the same position which is quite nice [Music] yeah and I almost lost my hair earlier this would have been a interesting stream if that would have happened 3d printing flex filaments best settings so there has been a nice video from makers Muse a while ago on on printing flexible filaments printing flexible filaments with a Bowden setup is always hard print slow yeah print slow [Music] slowly and yeah the board is upgraded definitely for example the old one didn't feature the headers for the filament remote sensor but I might be checking how they are doing the power outage function if yay and we are done yeah we'll see maybe maybe I can find something out about that all right I guess let's let's take a look at the bed sheet let me change the camera a little so I have said before that I use this a printer pro-spray for adhesion and this stuff is solid solid on there okay so what do we see so this is the banshee it looks quite nice there some ringing artifacts right here there are some retraction artifacts on this side but nothing too bad we have one problem right here but this was where we tried a filament round sensor I guess it's bearable if you would otherwise lose the print I would be totally fine with that up here you're able to see that see so there is a small step right here this is where we cut the power and it resumes but also not too bad this is fine this doesn't look too bad no under extrusion over extrusion I can't really complain to be honest it's nice yeah I think just to conclude this video the assembly was okay there are some problems with with the mechanics but I guess there are forum entries and videos around where they help you to fix these filament remote sensor works power power function works it's a good printer it's a good printer if you need that print volume you can definitely you can definitely go for it it's always hard to get or sometimes hard to get these printers from China shipped here they are also shops probably in your country where you can get the printer so you don't have the hassle with customs and stuff like that if you don't need the big build volume try or think about maybe spending some bucks more and getting a and going for a cruiser for quality-wise it's definitely a better one but still this is not a bad printer okay so what spray did I use I used from a printer Pro snow stream company printer fix I think it's called adhesion spray but there are also different things around yeah I guess that's it thanks for watching guys please give the video a thumbs up it helps me all the Lots it helps spreading the word take a look at my other videos if you haven't subscribed yet subscribe to the channel thanks for watching thanks for your time and I see you next time

Channel: CNC Kitchen

Views: 52,498

Keywords: creality, creality cr-10, cr-10, cr-10s, upgrade, update, 3d printer, 3d printing, live, live stream, stream, cnc kitchen, stefan hermann, gearbest, filament runout sensor, test, review, unboxing, assembly, filament run out sensor, power loss function, power panic, power outage, bed leveling, bed adhesion, fix, diy, q&a, sous vide, sous vide cooking, sous vide mod

Id: LDesHpjqZ7M

Length: 213min 36sec (12816 seconds)

Published: Sat Jan 27 2018