ArchiCAD 24: 30 Minute Timber Construction Tutorial

what's going on guys my name is david thomas and welcome back to the channel today we're going to be talking about how we can model and document a very small project but taking it in a lot more detail today we're going to be looking at a design i recently did but really breaking it down into its key elements looking at how it transitions from the ground to the slab all the way up through to the walls and all the way to the roof structure itself we're going to be trying to keep it relatively simple throughout worldwide standards so most of this information will be somewhat applicable to most people obviously architecture is very site specific so this may or may not be applicable to you 100 but it should give you an extremely good idea of how you can design and document in archicad 24. so today we're going to be starting with the arcad 24 template in the australian standard mode i've changed absolutely nothing to help you guys follow along with the tutorial as best as possible so what i'm going to teach you is exactly how the floor connects to the ground the wall connects to the floor and so forth moving up it is best that we start with some sort of a generic floor so we're going to use it like the mesh tool site mesh is a perfect layer that we can work off and we're just going to use a rectangular geometry to start with so for the time being let's make it 25 meters by 25 meters it does not really matter what this floor is actually going to be because we don't really need it for anything in particular it's just there for visual appearance if we go into our 3d model you're going to see straight away that we've created that site mesh now going back to our ground floor plan you can either use this project map or the view map personally i like the view map and all the settings here over anything else because you can actually coordinate it and you can allocate it how you like it to be so for anybody starting out in archicad 24 you'll see that there's sketch design design development exchange notes drafting aids batch render schedules and audit most of these things would be null and void for me on a personal template it would be more so constructed on the pages that i require so things like proposed site plan ground floor plan elevation sections and so forth you have a lot of that in these folders themselves but we're not really going to dive into any of that at the moment we're going to be using timber frame construction in this situation because it's more applicable to the rest of the world however we don't really know what we're designing yet so we're going to start with a floor plan and then we're going to work our way up as quickly as we can it's not going to be anything special so i'm actually just going to use a fill tool to start diagramming what i think might work for a floor plate so if we go anywhere from 3 meters by three meters for a kitchen and dining and then we also duplicate that for the living room we're going to use this three meters by three meters for a bathroom and a hallway and also a bedroom which then means we can also implement some sort of decking our fresco area here that's going to be the general floor plan for us for the time being so that means we can actually utilize this shape move it somewhere to the middle of our floor plan and we can establish that this is going to be our timber slab moving forward so there's a very easy way you can create a timber slab that gives you no details whatsoever you can go to the timber slab and just trace this but in this instance i want to show you guys the exterior and the perimeter of how this will actually work so in this case we're going to start by using the beam tool and we're going to open up the beam settings we're going to start using a 120 by 45 millimeter timber beam and we're just going to change the settings of it from general structural to timber i'll also change the materials of it while we're here just so we know that it is timber but basically what would happen in this instance is there would be a ring beam around this entire perimeter floor so we draw our ring beam going all the way around and then we would take this one beam go to the multiply tab spread it 450 millimeter centers in australia that's quite a common spacing and we can definitely use that for this project so we'll delete that last ring beam and we'll select the remaining that are a little bit over reducing them back in line with the edge you can also use the axe tool to quickly just cut and trim then delete all those ring beams extra so you don't have to do them individually and we can probably also go through and delete all of our fills that we created before to understand what the shape of this building is going to be so if we go back into 3d we'll see that our floor plate has started to create and the slab is definitely way too high so i'm going to drop that about 500 millimeters just so we can really see what we're working with but that is the basis of the floor that we're going to be working with and then in the opposite direction so if we go back into our ground floor plan we're going to be running timber joists in the opposite direction now these timber joists will depend on the site soil conditions and what the engineer has to say but in this instance we're just going to continue to use the exact same timber beam to be a bearer underneath so this bearer would actually replicate in this section here so we'd duplicate that one and run it underneath then i'd also duplicate it to the center and duplicate it to the end so dragging it back in line going back into our 3d we'll see that we've created these three barriers that sit underneath and i'm going to drop them directly underneath so now we have our supporting bearers sitting underneath the timber floor structure and positioning it correctly in line with the above bracing now on top of that timber floor we'd probably have a 16mm particle board so if we were just to go to slabs general and outline that shape again we could go back into 3d and edit that for a 16mm particle board so we see that slab has been created it's definitely too thick opening up the settings and changing it to a basic structure composition we can change that to 16 millimeters change that to a timber floor and change all of that to just timber for the purposes of visual effects that'll obviously sit on top of those timber joists what would usually happen in this instance is we could go ahead and either carpet it or tile it or do whatever we needed but from a construction point of view that is the simple premise of what is required if there was for example a bathroom here like we're planning it we would actually notch out all of these timber joists and set it down by about 30 or 40 ml to allow the fall of the tiles i won't go into detailing every single one of those pieces because that would take way too long but that is something that you can expect from your structural engineer to advise you of what these timber joists underneath are going to look like if a set down is required now because we've established our floor plate we can go further back and design backwards i know it's a little bit odd but obviously you're not going to build without a floor plan so you have to start designing your floor plan before you understand your structures so if we go back into our ground floor plan and click control 7 we can create a new floor below and call it footings we're going to reduce it anywhere from 300 to 500 mil it doesn't really matter for the time being because this is more of a demonstrational video than an exact engineering video i'm not an engineer i'm an architect so it's a very different set of skills that we have engineers will definitely be able to advise you on the structural requirements and it's very job specific so if we click ok and come across to our footings on the right hand side we will see that our ground floor is still showing and we can go ahead and come across to the slab tool opening up the settings going back to basic creating maybe a 500 deep slab dropping at five 600 mil underneath the ground and going concrete what i want to do now is draw a simple 500 by 500 stump footing underneath this corner and replicate that in all the corners in this project to keep the distribution of all loads pretty even i'd expect a structural engineer to give me a basic pattern like this so there'd be concrete thumb footings underneath the ground at roughly this sort of pattern what would then happen is there'd be a stirrup set into that concrete and then there'd be a timber column or a timber post holding up this floor structure above the ground so if we go into objects and tools open up our settings type in stirrup up the top archicad has one on the bim components website so we'd actually have to download and embed it in this case so there's a bunch of settings that we can play with and adjust depending on what we need it would be completely different in every situation but we're just going to use the standard stirrup for the purpose of argument we're probably going to need a bit more than 350 let's go 450 in this instance because you want that floor to sit at least 300 ml above the natural ground so we don't get any moisture issues or anything of those sorts we'll go ahead and stick a random stirrup in all of these concrete footings and then we'll move back into our 3d to understand how this is all working so there are all of our stirrups in the center of our concrete footings and lining up with the perimeter beam of our floor structure in 3d we'll see that we're completely off with all of our settings but that's not an issue we can click ctrl f to open up our find and select tool we'll click the copy settings add a name parameter and then we can quickly go plus to highlight all of these stirrups and move them 450 below ground so what you'll see now is that our concrete mass footings are sitting quite low underneath the ground surface because we've already reduced that natural ground by 500 mil so what i'll do is simply increase that to minus 100 and just showcase that exactly how these stirrups would be sitting so if this was actually in its own element i'll move this across so i can display it a bit better that concrete would be sitting approximately a hundred mil underneath the ground and this stirrup would be set quite deep into the concrete slab sitting into the center and being able to hold a post that would then support this floor so in this instance i'll undo all of those to be able to actually raise all of my settings okay so i'm going to move my concrete stumps back 200 millimeters or 100 millimeters under the ground and i'm going to find all of my stirrups select them at the same time and reduce them a lot lower into the ground so they're going to be sitting just off the ground in this instance we're going to go back into our footings and we're going to start creating a couple columns where those stirrups are actually going to be utilized so the column in this instance i think the stirrups are actually 75 by 75 and we're going to make them timber again i'm not really worried too much on what these are i'm not really looking into it it would be more so of a timber stud than anything else but again that doesn't really matter so i'm going to go in here and create my first one just there in the center of the stirrup which is going to load in 3d and i'm going to double check that the sizing is correct so what i'm going to do is drop it so it sits underneath that bearer here that bearer would actually extend all the way to the edge of that and that post or that column would pick up the bottom of this floor that would then be replicated on the rest and there would be a bolt running directly through that timber stirrup as there would be some sort of mechanical connection for that timber to that bearer so if we'll quickly replicate all the rest of those timber posts we would see that they're all sitting on those stirrups they're lifting this floor above our natural ground and we have a good 300 millimeters clearance from the natural ground level roughly give or take but for the purposes of this design we're not going to worry about it too much that is a very basic very simple timber floor structure that we would be using to actually be able to understand how a timber framed building comes together what we can then go ahead and do is start actually creating some interior walls so if we go back to our ground floor plan we can see our main slab and we'd start using some timber walls so again just like the slab tool there's the easier way to do it and it's the hard way to do it timber walls aren't usually constructed to that much detail in archicad but i will break it up to show you how a timber wall is constructed as well if we were to just pick the generic timber wall let's go a 90 mil stud partition keep it as timber framing and just line the perimeter of this building we would have our timber walls constructed relatively quickly now those timber walls are linked to the first home story i don't want to link them in this case we only want a 2 4 ceiling we want to make them quite low it will sit approximately 10 mil past the edge of the actual timber flooring because what would happen in real life is that cladding on the outside would run all the way past these timber floor bearers and joists so that we could hide the ugly structural parts of this building now that timber wall obviously isn't constructed with a big block of mass so if we were to actually open up this timber wall and showcase what the inside would look like let's say we cut this timber wall in half move it across what we would actually have is a 90 by 90 column on each side of that opening so that would be our interior of our timber we would have that 90 by 90 again at 600 centers in this case potentially a little bit more depending on the timber size depending on where we're using it so it would look something along those lines we would have our four columns here and then there'd be a bottom chord and a top chord and there'd be some nogging as well so basically what i mean there is there would be some sort of general beam that would be near identical it would probably be 190 by 45 but in the thin opposite direction and all it would look like is a bottom beam there i'll go back into 3d to showcase what we're talking about here so each of these columns would be the same height as the actual overall wall again linked to the first floor we know the first floor is three meters so we're just going to go minus 600 back to four that bottom cord that we created is actually sitting inside of our floor so we're going to go back into our floor plan and find that bottom cord just elevated 150 millimeters for the time being so we can find it there it is we'll drop that to the bottom in line with that 15 that 16 16mm plywood will also create a top cord just here and the rest of this wall would be something along the lines of nogging in between so by that i mean it would be simple timber bracing one roughly there and the overall wall looking something like this obviously depending on the wind loads depending on a whole bunch of different things it will actually implement how many noggings we need what kind of fixing mechanisms you need what the span can be etc etc but the general premises of a timber wall is something along this line we have the columns at 600 spacing we have the top cord we have the bottom cord and we have our noggins in between on each side if we zoom into this wall we can see we have our sheet of plasterboard on the interior and we have a sheet of cladding on the exterior as well so that is what you would see if you were to break open any timber wall if you're wondering how this timber frame actually connects to the floor it would be mechanically fixed so there would be actual bolts directly fixing this at a certain number of spacing again depending on the wind loads of that site and the requirements in your country how frequently we'd have to fix this actual section of the timber wall to the floor but it would be mechanically fixed to the actual structure now because we don't actually need to see any of that information i can go ahead and just delete that because that was literally there just to showcase to you guys what the interior of a timber wall looks like so i'll delete that one delete this wall select the perimeter of those two walls and click control i to automatically join them now if this was an architectural project this exterior wall would once again continue three meters inside to create that bathroom we'd drop that two meters to be able to create a one meter passage come back line it up with the externals and create our bathroom we would then extend that length of the wall to create our bedroom so if we were to simply drop a door in each section there'd be a door here for the bathroom there would be a door again here for the bedroom and then we could implement our kitchen over here we could implement our dining over here and our living over here if we wanted to introduce some decking over this end we could most likely just simply drag that wall back here from an architecture point of view create our kitchen living dining in this space it would be a very small kitchenette wherever it would go we'd probably pop a door from the main side just here so we can enter into this building then this would be some sort of glass sliding door so if we just select a standard ox xo sliding door and implement it here into our project we can see that we have a new sliding door we have our front door we have our interior doors that would definitely be a different size because these are too large so we bring that back down to 800 doors again we're not really documenting or discussing anything of the sort in this project so we're just keeping it very simple if we go back into our 3d we're going to see that we've created our sliding door here we've pushed back our interior to create this decking here and we've given ourselves a front door so overall we're starting to create some sort of design and some sort of architectural elements with the structural design that we're talking about today now to give this some architectural flair and to create something really nice what i'd actually do in this instance is raise this wall up to about three meters and then pivot a roof off that section all the way through to this section allowing us for some highlight windows and then reverting this roof back in here so the simplest way to do that is to go to our first floor plan which is technically our roof plan right click our ground floor goes show us trace so we understand exactly where our building is come into our roof tool select the single geometry and start drawing our roof from all the way there to cover our decking running all the way back we know we're going to have a wall continuing along this so we're going to stop that short here run that back run it all the way across we're going to do the same on this instance but in this case this roof is actually going to cut that section and revert in at this point i'll talk about why we're cutting back in here and we're not actually running through all the way in a second but if we go back to our 3d we'll see that we've created incredibly thick incredibly large roof structures so if i open up this generic roof is 250 deep which probably isn't too far off what a roof structure would be in this instance it'd be 190 ml timber roof rafter as would this one on this side however this one would sit on a top plate on this side and i don't like that from an architectural point of view so that would be potentially a 10 degree roof and this one still for my liking is sitting a little bit too low so i'm going to raise that up 25 degrees and raise that another 500 mil so because this is quite a high timber wall we're probably going to need some steel columns in here to actually support the height of that wall but again for the purposes of argument we're not going into that much detail we are going to increase the height of this wall all the way to the top as we are with this wall here so they surpass the edge of that roof structure what we're going to do is quickly select both these walls come into design go solid element operations and then select these two rubs and click add as operator subtracting with an upwards extrusion clicking ok and now we have our roof and our walls aligned exactly where we need them if we go back into our first floor plan and hold the alt key we can actually copy the settings of our wall below and replicate a brand new wall above just here now this wall won't go all the way across it'll go to the edge of this roof here but it will span along the wall underneath for construction purposes we don't need that wall to go all the way to the top it'll sit just underneath that rafter and that rafter will go all the way across to the top of that wall and sit on the actual top of the wall now similar to the floor structure the roof has a very similar construction method it wouldn't be just one large plank of timber it would be individual rafters and purlins running across the top so to actually give you a better understanding of what that would look like i'm going to create a little section here in the middle that would actually showcase what a roof would look like so if we take this section here and simply just cut that roof for the purposes of argument drag it across we open up our roof so we know what we're looking at we would see a beam underneath it would be a 190 by 45 timber rafter and it would be on the same angle as the roof itself which is five degrees in this instance we would run that all the way up to the top and we would have that something along the lines of 600 spacing depending on what the actual construction zone is what the side is what the requirements are from wind loadings and what your structural engineer really has to say so at the end of the day is the structural engineer that will determine the spacing of your roof rafters but in this instance we're just really creating it to showcase what this roof would look like now this roof isn't spanning very far it is too high again in this instance so we'll drop that back down and it wasn't 5 degrees my mistake it was 10 degrees we changed that so your roof rafters would look something like this there would be some sort of l plate bracket on this side here fixed to the wall and also fixed to the rafter to hold it in place and then what would occur is a simple purlin would run in the opposite direction so if we were to get a timber purlin again it would potentially be 35 by 35 purlins and they would run in the complete opposite direction so we'd run them across this side and we'd space them at 1200 centers depending on the size it changes so if you get bigger purlins you can span further if you get smaller purlins you have to span shorter distances so in this instance we've created our purlins they definitely don't need to be at any degree in this case so we run them flat we will run our first one to the top of that rafter and then the next one will sit directly above that and the last one will obviously sit again in line with the top of the next rafter so it follows that five degree pitch but it sits on top of the actual rafters themselves what these rafters allow us to do is actually provide the sheeting and consistently bolt the roof sheeting across the top so if we were to click on our roof structure i use cat image tools go coverings go roof covering and come across to a corrugated sheet roof it doesn't need to be purple it can be black now that ci tools creates quickly that roof structure above and we can see what our roof structure is actually doing so on the side here we have our barge board covering the edge of that timber roof that barge board would actually extend a little bit further in this case because it isn't deep enough so if we went back into our barge board change match fascia and made it 220 for this instance we'd see that our barge board now covers the edge of that roof rafter there what would actually happen in this instance is the cladding would come up a little bit higher to sit underneath the gutter fascia just like that so the wall actually wouldn't extend it would just be the cladding that extended so i'll undo that because it caused me a headache with all the twitching and jittering but that gutter would sit over the top of that edge rafter and we would then actually be able to see that our purlins are sitting on top of this roof sheeting so the roof sheeting would be directly fixed mechanically via a set of screws to these purlins at 1200 centers so you'd see screws screws screws every so often across this roof sheeting to hold it down if we were looking at it from an interior construction point of view and we had for example a roof lined on the rake we would then either direct stick our ceiling to this rafter beam here or we would create another set of purlins that would suspend from this rafter to be able to give us a flat ceiling it really depends on the architectural style we're going for and looking for anyway that is the general premise of construction with timber frame it sits on the ground very lightly it comes up through the ground with metal stirrups and timber posts and then it sits on floor joists and bearers again those are indicated by the structural engineer of what size they need to be the wall itself is consistent of top cords and bottom cords and columns in between or timber posts and then there's nogging in between to make sure that timber wall is braced correctly when we move up to the roof the roof again is a series of timber rafters that run all the way across and then some purlins running in the opposite direction to allow us to actually mechanically fix our roof sheeting to the roof itself anyway that's all for me today guys thank you so much for watching i hope you enjoyed the video if you did make sure you smash that subscribe button down below drop a comment let me know what your favorite part was and as always i'll see you next monday

Channel: David Tomic

Views: 10,501

Keywords: video, sharing, camera phone, video phone, free, upload, architect, architecture student, architect student, building architect, david tomic, archicad 24, archicad

Id: eMN3vaH_EVQ

Length: 26min 1sec (1561 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 05 2021