Any Shaped Holes with a Regular Drill - How?

in today's video i'll show you how to drill just about any shape repeatable hole i'll make a simple tool for the drill that's easy to make and it really is very clever how it works it's called a parser drill or a passer drill and it was used a century or more ago to drill recesses in old tools for brass inlays i made a quick one off camera just to test it and now i'll make a better one for this video a template is used to guide the cutters and can be made in just about any shape i'll start by making the cutters first and then the template afterwards and for the cutters i'm using this five millimeter square high carbon spring steel i'd never seen or heard of the tool before and it was Corin who some of you would have seen in my recent kumiko gates video that put me on to this and he also did the legwork by making one first the first thing to do is forge the ends flat and i'm trying to keep things simple by using just the blowtorch instead of the forge the original tool was a hand tool driven by a bow but this version will go into the cordless drill just for convenience here's the shape of the cutter and next i need to square the end up i'll do this on the belt grinder and then i need to remove one of the corners this bit here will become the cutter and this bit that i remove will act as a depth stop and now i get to try for the first time my new powered respirator and also my new grinding room i need to install power points and lights but for now i'm just running an extension lead into the room after squaring the ends up i'll grind the faces flat and i can't grind them back as far as i'd hoped because i've forged the ends out a bit thinner than i should have done they're not the neatest and i was hoping to grind them a bit better but they'll still be okay i think if they don't work then i'll just remake them and that will only take a few minutes next i'll cut out the corner and make a shoulder and i'm marking them out with an old broken set of calipers they really are past their best so please don't worry about me ruining them it's difficult to get right into the corner so i'll refine that with a diamond stone if the steel wasn't already hardened i would have just used a file and even though the steel is hardened it would have lost some of its properties with the forging that i did earlier i'll re-harden them now by heating them up and then quenching them in vegetable oil after testing with a file to see if they've hardened i'll clean them up a little before tempering them i'm not doing that because at the moment they're brittle and the tempering will add some strength back to the cutters i'll heat them up an inch or two back from the ends and then watch the tempered collars run through towards the tip and when the tip is a straw collar i'll put it back in the oil to stop it going any further the last thing to do to the cutter is to put a bevel on this inside edge you can see it better in this sketch and the reason is the point of the bevel will get right into the corners of the template on the first one that i made off camera i made a holder to hold the two pieces and to mount it into the chuck i did that on the lathe than the milling machine it's pretty straightforward but this time i'm not going to do that i'm going to do it much easier i'm just going to weld the two pieces together and then i'll grind it round and mount it in the chuck that way they really don't need to be that precise but these ones are running pretty true next i'll spring the cutters out a little and i'm doing that carefully by putting gentle pressure on and hopefully not snapping them and that's the cutters done next i'll start the templates and for those i'm using some 15n20 i cut a few pieces for different templates and first i need to anneal them as the steel is already hardened and i need to shape them with files i'm making three different designs one will be my logo and the other two will be more traditional designs that were found on old tools i'll be heat treating these later on so they'll be hardened and will last longer but if you're only making a short run of recessed shapes then any mild steel will work but be aware that they will start to wear out they really didn't take too long now i'll put them in the forge and harden them they had around 10 minutes in the forge  and i'm quenching them in vegetable oil i cleaned them up off camera and next they'll temper in the oven for two hours now that the templates are ready i can give it a go and see how it works i'll use this piece of scrap pre-primed pine for the first attempt and the primer should help the cut to stand out for this demo first i'll show you how the original tool would have been used a plate would have been worn around the waist to hold the one end of the cutter this would allow the user to put pressure against it and against the work piece and then a bow would have been used to drive it forwards and backwards allowing the cutter to get right into the corners of the template even though that's very cool it's much more convenient to put it in a cordless drill i'll have to run it clockwise and anti-clockwise and i may have to try different speeds and techniques but let's give it a go for the first attempt i think that's looking pretty good so now i'll try it in hardwood and i'll use a piece of silky oak i'm still figuring out the best speeds and  techniques but it really is working awesome i'm very happy with that so let's try out my logo template on the first ones the cutters weren't reaching the middle of the diamonds but i realized by changing the speeds it managed to get to all of it all three designs worked great so now i'll quickly make some brass inlays i've made them a tight fit but they should hammer down in place it doesn't take too long to make them but as i reckon i'll use the logo one on future projects i plan on making a punch and die to easily reproduce them let me know if that's a video you'd like to see the other designs i'd probably just make them individually if i ever need them again before i glue the brass inlays in i've sanded the backs and clean them with acetone i'm using five minute epoxy but ca glue would have worked too i'm using a brass offcut to help seat the points of the inlay down into the recess that's sanded to 120 grit but i did sand it to 240 grit afterwards i tried sanding the diamond one on the disc sander and that was far too aggressive i made a mess of it and it got too hot and it slipped it's not the end of the world though as it's only a test piece i reckon they came out really well and next i'll put some wax on them it really was a great project and fun to  experiment with thanks to corin for putting me onto it i'm not sure how much use it'll get but hopefully you enjoyed seeing how cnc style work would have been done back in the day hopefully you enjoyed the video if you did please like and subscribe thanks for watching and i'll see you on the next one

Channel: Pask Makes

Views: 236,539

Rating: 4.9560494 out of 5

Keywords: paskmakes, pask, pask makes

Id: 005_HNv_v4w

Length: 11min 17sec (677 seconds)

Published: Fri Oct 08 2021

Reddit Comments

[u/Vasios]

I wonder how well this would work for strike plates.

[u/Cantteachcommonsense]

That is pretty cool.