Accuquilt TUTORIAL 2. Convert Family Circle QUILT

in this video we will be converting the family circle quilt from spikes and peeps into easy work using equip dies let's get busy we are so excited to be back with you and and love watching how many of you have been working on your other peaks and spikes quilts and your points and peaks and all those spiky blocks we love those and we did take a little bit of a break we hope you missed us because it seemed like your life and our life was fairly complicated so we are back at it now and one of the things that that i want to encourage you to do if you enjoy the videos and you want us to keep doing them please respond by by clicking the like button the subscribe button and all those buttons because that does allow us to continue to do this and while we know some of you have invested in purchasing the book many of you are watching just for curiosity or what we're doing so by continuing to have you like or subscribe that allows us to have the freedom to do some of this so let's get busy taking a peek at how these blocks oh peek that was funny uh and how these blocks are going to break down okay let's take a look now at the family circle quilt which again is one of my favorites from the book you'll notice there are two separate blocks there is a block a and a block b now for those of you working from your book you should be on page 26 and of course some of the wording is on page 27 as well when you look at block a we're we're making x number of block a's and x number of block b's and what i'd like for you to do is get your pin or pencil out and let's make some notes next to the units so that you know how to convert this with accuquilt dies unit a is die two unit b is di1 unit c is di8 unit d is die 14 and unit e die 13. as you look at the quilt you'll notice the differences in the two blocks but also you'll notice the very last outside frame of this is elements from the blocks to help continue the design of that circle that lives within that star block so by building that last row you would achieve that okay now i'm going to pick up my bias triangle unit and i'm going to put a half rectangle unit on it and if i sew a thousand of these i sew them in the same order i put the right side on the large unit the middle unit first and the thing i want you to pay real close attention to is i have cut the bias triangle with the ruler and then the half rectangle i cut with accuquel because i want you to be able to see the difference in how the notches look so because accuquilt cuts that notch off it mates up perfectly on the bottom side then when you line this up on the top side you'll have just a smidgen over and that's where your needle is going to drop is on that corner and as you can see the needle sort of straddles in the middle of that so once i line up the bottom and i go to my machine i'm going to drop that and now i'm going to sew and and kind of take your time sewing this now you'll see i'm going to come right off on that point i'm just going to finger press that back and then i will pick up my other piece that was cut with the ruler and now this is not going to be notched off so my needle is going to drop right there the notch is down here they're almost reverse in the way the notches are but this valley is what's got to hit my needle when i go to the machine so now i i'm right at that valley and i'm going to sew a quarter of an inch and then you can see when i come off this bottom with this notch i'm going to try to sew real slow so you can see that i'm going to come off right at that point right there now if you are higher or lower you're going to lose that corner once you summon it when i finger press this back here the very first thing i'm gonna you know i like to get that cleaned up so you can see now that i'm pretty clean here what i like to do is clean these up now you can either take it off this way or just simply go up the side of your unit and all i really do is just kind of stay parallel to the edge of my fabric it's not important that i clean that little nub up there so now i have my corners clean i have made the main unit that lives in block a if you're using accu quilt i would have used die 13 and die 14 and i need four of those to execute block a and that takes care of that spiky unit now as you look in the corners of block a i have a basic four patch i have merely cut a four patch right there to just show you how i would make that unit i use different colors but obviously you're able to see that this is the lower left or the lower right corner upper left corner but let me bring your attention to one thing this is a reverse of that one and i do so when i'm sewing this i would so in this case i need eight light and dark sewn together so i would sew all of those together but when i assemble this one that is what the left one looks like but the right one looks like it's just the direct opposite it looks like this and i know that somebody's going to say why what does it matter well i'll tell you why it matters when you assemble a block a quilt like this that has two different blocks in it to control the seam allowances i want both this unit and this unit to have the joiner seam running east and west if you sew them all that way and you get ready to put that one over here you have to rotate it now it puts your seam running north and south and you're going to get in trouble when you try to mate it up to block b i sew all my pairs together and then when i get ready to build it i sew half of them one way and half them the other way to guarantee that i have left my east west seam in this entire block but you can see that even though this is the left and right now that we're looking at every one of my four patch seams are running east and west i can't put one in there because then when i get ready to mate it up right now all the darks are going in if you aren't careful you're going to end up sewing these and there's somebody going well what does it matter well sew it that way and i will guarantee you that when you get ready to join it to its neighbor you're going to have to rotate those seams and it in the end of the world it's just more work and we just have a big center square we've made block a now let's take a look at block b the center is nothing but a nine patch setup with small squares large squares and rectangles so as you can see here i have laid out the elements the nine elements i would sew this row one row two and row three and i would make my center nine patch units whether they're scrappy or planned in advance now i have organized this one unlike the original quilt which is very scrappy i this one is a planned coloring the only issue on this guy that we've not covered is this setting right here these four angled units now if you look at this in the last session we made this spiky unit right here which is just a light and a dark half rectangle which is dye 14. when you sew this pair reverse the seam orientation so like on one i put the light to the dark on the other when i put the dark to the light this is one that i highly encourage you to press that seam open because if you take that open you can really see where those little points come together and that creates this outside unit like that this isn't an issue for me that it has a seam here because the seam is coming into a pure rectangle so i'm not fighting any weight by taking that open i'm going to have a very clean seam when i join it but if i could eliminate that i'd want to so in this case if i use accuquilt i'm going to have a pair a light and a dark and a light and a dark and these are opposites so you'll cut sets of these and sets of these that will yield this so let me show you how to plan and do and cut this unit without a seam in the middle um if you look at your pattern in your book this entire element on this size block which is nine inches this part is six so from here to here is six inches this would be adding another three inches which is what yields me a nine inch block and that's what i'm going to get if i work with the six inch cube you can work with any size cube you want you'll just have to redo the math if you're going to do this cutting so what i would be doing is i would still cut this with my accuquel but to cut this i'm going to take a rectangle and that rectangle has to be the sum of this whole area so if this is three and this is three i need to cut a rectangle that is six and a half and that's exactly what i did so i cut my rectangle six and a half i folded it in half so when i cut this in half i have eliminated the seam that would have been in the block so my ruler is going to be on the three and a quarter line i took a six and a half and i folded it in half i could have taken an eight and a half and folded it in half i'd still be a quarter inch less when i lay my ruler down and i'm going to cut this now when i make this unit i do not ever take that corner off right here because i think it's a little bit easier to sew it and here's what it looks like now this is what's really interesting about why we need more than one technique because i've done this with the ruler i actually would prefer to sew the accuquilt cut number 14 because it doesn't take this corner off i cut this one with the ruler and i took the corner off and i'm going to sew this rather sloppily because i want you to see the difference between leaving this point intact how much easier it is to sew by not taking the point off that long half rectangle unit i have a flat side but the notch on the accu quilt cut is just dandy there and then on this other end i have a flat see how nice that sits right there and i don't have to try to guess where those notches belong i've got this one that i cut with the ruler so you'll see that i've got to pay attention to the notch down here to know the orientation which is why i don't like that corner cut off but i can get this aligned so my flat top now is lining up with my point now because i notched this one with the ruler do you see how that's kind of iffy on how it looks so you've still got your quarter inch but that if i've notched it i just think it's more complicated to sew so if you're using accuquil the top does not notch so you'd be fine if you're using the ruler i would not cut that notch off so you can see that by the time i sew this that will not be an issue but i'll sew to this point right here this one is done with four pieces this one's done with three pieces i have to use the ruler to do this i can do this one ruler or accuquil and i can do the wings with ruler or aqua so it's it's just kind of nice to know that when you run across this angle and i use them a lot in the border and if you look at the border for this quilt this element is used quite a bit so sometimes being able to eliminate that seam is a bonus in the case of this block it isn't a great issue because you can press the seam open so if you have made your nine patch center unit that's the center of this block and i have sewn four of these units with four corner squares i've made block b okay now if you look on page 29 at the layout of the quilt and start in the upper left corner i've laid out the first three blocks in row one and row two and because i controlled my coloring here i want you to look what a great unit i get in this corner where i get these real spiky elements starting to come in and i get this path of my print running this direction and then my green running that direction so by controlling my coloring i've got a different look that even though i love the original one i love the way this works okay and while we're looking at this i've laid these out so this seam is east-west this seam is east-west this seam is east-west if you look here you can clearly see the black seams going to the green that black seams going to the white that tells me when i sew these two together they're going to nest perfectly i'm going to rotate this to show you that i'm going to put this in the north south position and i will get away with one of them but then when i get to the other one i'm going to have i'm going to have them not made up as easy so i guarantee that i'm going to have these lined up if i do it this way and because in this case now this black's going to the white this black's going to the green so when i sew these it's a dream to sew it and what's really nice when we we wouldn't have had an issue with the center seam but now i end up with this kind of like this little circle effect so i went i took time to make this background color match that background and i altered the background in block b that was just a personal choice and that's one of the things that makes a quilt like this so much fun is you can play around with the coloring and be as fussy as you want or just be very very scrappy and not worried but i love the way these spiky elements are coming together now if i were to be setting the quilt that i just made like the pattern on page 26 i would be using my blocks in an east-west row i would use a block a block b block a blah blah blah depending on how many rows i wanted now you can see that i've used x number of a blocks and x number of b blocks now look at what happens when you set this quilt on point [Music] i think this is a game changer when you decide to take these blocks and turn them on point now as you look at this i made nine star blocks in this quilt which would be block a and i made four of block b in order to set this on point and it changes a little bit the way the outside parameter of this so when you look at my dark green fabric that was my setting triangle fabric and when you go into those little points in the corner you'll notice that design does not continue but what i love about only using this number of blocks in this and i look at the quilt that center purple star then all that framework around it i think is just a bonus of what i got by not including any side work and when you're doing a setting triangle like this it's very important that you keep your blocks all the same size so regardless of the size cube that you decided to use now there are some quilts in the spikes and peaks book that i did use a ruler which is called the side set triangle ruler and it is no longer available unless you can find it in a shop somewhere but what i'm going to do is give you the math for how you would calculate this if you didn't have a side set triangle ruler and or another method for calculating those triangles i just drew a square who cares what size square it is pretend it's just a square even if it isn't the way you calculate your math for doing those green side set triangles that i used on this whatever size dies you used or whatever size your block is as it lays on the table pretend this is your block so your job is to measure this from a corner to a corner now when somebody says something to me about i don't understand corner to corner holy mackerel hold the block straight and gently tip it and do your measurement from one corner straight across the diagonal to the other corner so it's one size as a square but as an on point block for example a 12 inch block finished on point finishes 17 inches so you have to know that your math must be done on the on point so what i'm going to do is measure that on point whatever it is add two inches cut a square and cut it twice there is your four quarter square triangles which is what the side of this is so that's how you calculate and yes it oversizes yes it is one of the times that i don't mind if that element is a tad larger because it allows me to have some float in there if i need to and to trim this up for the corner it's actually half of that so it's to this measurement right here so if you're making your corners that's going to be half of that for exact you know for example that and i still do the plus two inches cut a smaller square and i only cut it once so i would need two squares cut in half to yield my four corners there's a math expert out there somewhere who's going to tell me what the pi r squared times the lopotamus of the whatever that's going to calculate this i know all of that but all of that also ends up with elements that are point something something and you still have to find that on a ruler so you might just as well simplify your life add two inches cut it and then once you've set your blocks you will have to re-square that element and leave your quarter inch seam allowances to the outside my good friend mary ellen hopkins you've heard me talk about her a lot mary ellen used to like the idea that these had even up to three inches added to this because it would float that background and if that background was something like your side set element was something that you thought was dramatic you could easily let those blocks float in that and they would just appear to be floating on that background so it's not like we don't know how to calculate it this just gives me more choices when i'm doing it i did just add a skinny blue and then i came back with a wider border for my second border i could have easily pieced those elements and this was working with my new fabric that's part of the wilmington essentials collection we covered a lot of information in this but we've missed being with you so we thought we'd better cover a few extra little details thank you so much for watching us we look forward to seeing you on the next video and now you get busy cutting that family circle out have a great day bye bye

Channel: Kaye England

Views: 700

Rating: 5 out of 5

Keywords: accuquilt, patchwork, quilting, kaye england, quilt ruler, quilt pattern tutorials, kaye england quilts, kaye england staycation, kaye england beyond the cube, quilt rulers, quilt patterns, quilt pattern, quilting videos, quilt ruler work, kaye england youtube, quilt rulers and templates, kaye england block of the month, quilting for beginners, patchwork quilt, quilting patterns, quilting tutorial, accuquilt live, accuquilt go cube, kaye england beyond the qube

Id: dzLaQSuRZ5I

Length: 23min 17sec (1397 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 30 2021