6.7 Cummins Injector Replacement

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[Music] foreign [Music] so new day new things new trucks um i have uh turned into a dodge repair facility apparently um it's interesting different areas and my shop's been in three different towns now um and uh the the last two locations that it was in and mostly i worked on ford stuff it wasn't a lot of dodge stuff and then being out here i have worked a lot of dodges which i i don't mind um but uh so yeah so this one um it is 2008 2009 i don't know here it is oh cool no door tag neat um no idea it's probably 2008 that'd be my guess so anyways um 2008 2009 whatever and it came in which i don't even think it has very many miles on it i think it's got like at 150 just shy of 150. um but it came in because uh it needed uh injectors and it had a hung open injector so it wasn't fuel knocking real hard and blowing all kinds of smoke and you know all that stuff and so uh well yeah the short of it is it needs a set of ejectors so that's what we are doing we are doing a set of injectors um i will probably set you guys up on the tripod and let you kind of watch some of the process um as you can see the uh i'm i'm thinking it's it's fairly common for the um the exhaust manifold gaskets to leak on these things towards the back and it kind of looks to me like it was probably leaking and caught the insulation on fire um because the you can see the you know maybe you can maybe you can't but you can see the oh yeah there you go um the insulation is actually missing a big chunk right here and then it's laying down on top of it but it's all black back in there i mean you can see on the on the fender over there it's all it's a white truck this is supposed to be white right here um but and then also the the plastic loom on the wiring harness that it clips up right here on the cowl right below this lip and the plastic was all melted on it so i figured before i got too far i've got some of these these like zip tie things when they go in this these holes on the firewall like that um and they hold the harness up but i've got some of those so i figured well you know the harness is well real realistically in the way for me to do my job so um so i figured i'd tape that up and kind of get it fixed up a little bit so it was out of the way but but anyways so we're going to uh going to get after this we gotta get it i'm hoping to have it at least most of the way if not all the way done today um if anything we'll have just a couple little things to finish up tomorrow but uh but yeah so we're gonna get after it [Music] [Applause] [Music] all right so i'm not sure quite where i left off um i know i was we had some time lapse going but i'm not sure where in the process i left off so i'll give you guys kind of a quick rundown of everything and so basically um this is more time consuming than it is anything else um there is a bunch of forums like i know dynamite has a um uh an online instruction manual to do these um and i know on their website i don't think that they have six seven um injector replacement you know instructions but they have five nine which is essentially the same so um basically where you're gonna start i'll show you on this cylinder because it's it's up so where you're going to start is you're going to remove the exhaust rocker so the exhaust rocker arm needs to be removed you can see that eight millimeter headed bolt down there and it's on the other side of the injector hold down so that's why that rocker arm has to be removed is because there's that bolt down there you can't get to with the rock armor so you remove that 10 millimeter bolt not a big deal so you get that off there and then your next step is you're going to pull the the connector tube nut off so that holds the connector tube into the cylinder head so you pull that out and you get your two ten millimeter bolts just pull that out not a big deal you take i've got a little adjustable heel bar take your adjustable heel bar and you kind of hook it underneath the body of the injector and you just kind of give it a little light pressure and it'll pop right out um the connector tubes and typically what i do is i'll take a flat brick flat a flat flat blade screwdriver and just kind of stick it in the threads at an angle back here um and then just kind of smack the end of the um into the screwdriver and it'll just pop right out typically so then you got it all disassembled everything's out and when you go to put it back together and there is i'll show you over here on this injector so you've got an o-ring here so you want to lube also when you pull the injector out you want to make sure that your copper is on the end of it you know it's always a good idea to kind of look down in the in the injector bore in the head and verify that all your parts have come out with the injector um but you want to verify that your copper is on the end you do not want to double stack the coppers in there these don't typically have an issue with the coppers coming off when you pull the injector out but just verify so obviously this is your injector this is your connector tube so the connector tube has this little dowel on it and that dowel goes up so if you if you feel yourself fighting this going in just rotate it because that'll go right in there put a little lube on your o-ring here little oil whatever just something to help it slide in so it doesn't nick the o-ring and it makes it easier to put it in as well so you can see that hole in the side of the injector these injectors only go in one way this hole needs to point towards the driver's side of the vehicle when you put it in and obviously like say the connector tube goes through the head and it hooks up there so this is we're going to get to this in a second here but this is one of the reasons why torquing the connector tube nut is a is a big deal because that's just a compression fitting so there's nothing really attaching that other than just the physical force of the connector tube being put in there um so you want that to be good and tight in there so that way this does not this area right here does not leak you know around the bottom of the injector so um once you get the uh this is the hold down here and that just comes off there's a little slot in it right there and that hook that goes on this little dowel on the other side you can kind of see the dowel there um so that'll only go on there one way um so you just swap the swap that over to the new injector um put that back on there so it doesn't roll off toolbox but so once you do that um put a little bit of oil on the uh on the o-ring of the body of the injector and then set it in there um it'll take just a hair pressure you just push down on it and it'll just pop right in there and take your two eight millimeter bolts and thread them in there evenly by hand you just get them finger tight so you want that hold down to be even side to side and so you like say you thread them in there evenly so that way it goes down straight once you do that stick your stick your connector tube in um so you stick your connector tube in and like say just push it in by hand and you'll you'll kind of feel it go you know pop in there past the o-ring and then put your note on finger tight and then torque this nut to 37 foot pounds so this is the first thing you're going to tighten is this nut right here so 37 foot pounds on that nut and then once you torque that then you can move over to the bolts on the injector so these need to be torqued to eight foot pounds um it's actually i think it's 89 inch pounds which i it comes out just shy of eight foot pounds but eight foot pounds is okay um you don't want to go over that because these bolts aren't very you know big so they'll break so like say you want to do it evenly you want to do an even torque side to side you want to make sure that this hold down here is um is even you know you don't want it to be you don't want it to be you know like that you know basically i don't know if you can really depict what i'm saying but you want to be nice and even so you torque those to eight foot pounds what i will tell you is if you're using a foot-pound torque wrench or three-eighths drive foot-pound torque wrench so mine goes down to eight foot pounds so it's on the low end of its torque scale and so when you torque these the click isn't very distinct so you have to be kind of careful when you're torquing them to make sure that you feel the click you got to do it really lightly so once you get that done um the other thing that you want to make sure you do is um you can see how this you can hear it so this this rocker arm or this cam lobe is it's on the bottom of the lobe so the valves are completely closed right now and that's where you want to remove and replace this rocker arm out and the reason why you do that is because if you see this one right here so the valves are all pushed down when you when they're pushed down like this you're going to have an uneven torque when you go to torque that this 10 millimeter bolt so you want them to be up like that so that way your torques your torque values are proper this gets torqued to 27 foot pounds and then once you go once you're done and you can do this as you go too if you want to but um readjust the valves you're in here you need to do it when you have the exhaust rocker arms off anyways so readjust the valves um factory spec on the valves is 26 thousandths on the exhaust and 10 000 on the intake um it's pretty self-explanatory there's tons of forums on how to do that so again first one you're going to torque is the connector tube nut it's 37 foot-pounds second ones you're going to torque are the injector hold down bolts it's eight foot-pounds and then the rocker arm bolts are 27 foot-pounds so that's pretty all self-explanatory there what i had to do to get it to this point um is basically again you have to um you know undo all your injector lines um you if you have a 24 millimeter or equivalent sized socket for a 3h drive um that'll directly go onto a 3h drive not a half inch drive or anything like that you might have enough room in between the rail and the fuel rail and the head to torque those connector tube nuts um but i'm using a 24 millimeter shallow half inch drive with an adapter to 3 8. so there's not enough room in between the rail and the head to get your torque wrench and everything in there to torque those and so since you already have the injector lines off the only other two lines you have to pull off are the feed line from the injection pump and the return off the rail and then there's four 10 millimeter bolts and that rail comes out it's pretty it's pretty easy it's it's one of those things where it's easy enough that it's not worth you know screwing with and not taking off um because it gives you tons more room but uh but yeah so um i'm gonna keep going after it here and i'll probably set you guys up on the tripod but uh but yeah so that's quick rundown of how to how you know the earth i guess the process obviously you have to take the valve cover and all that kind of stuff off i'm not sure if i went over that but it's not that big of a deal so anyways guys all right so i decided i wouldn't set you guys up on um time lapse because you can't see what i'm doing so felt pointless and something i didn't want to point out though this is um i'm i got a mess going right now but whatever um so this is a fairly common uh issue i've run into this before um you can see this bottom piece right here so this little cup is what actually pushes on the valve bridge and i'll grab the valve bridge and show you so in the truck it's going to go like that so the you know your valves sit at the end of those basically so that's what pushes up and down on it so that this piece i'll show you because it's easy it has a ball on the end of it and then it's just a little slippery thing but little cup and the cup see if i get a hold of it it's all oily the cup goes on there like that so there's this little black piece right here that's supposed to be attached to this cup and i'm not sure exactly why but this little plastic piece gets pushed off of the cup and essentially this cup all that plastic piece there is there for is to just keep this cup on there while you're assembling there's literally no other use or design for that piece other than just physically keeping the cup on there so what happens from time to time is that plastic thing walks off of the cup and then when you go to pull the rocker arm off that cup will fall off so it's always a good idea to to put your fingers on this cup when you're pulling the rocker so that way if if it is like this one here where that cup can fall off this cup doesn't fall down say you know one of the oil return holes in the head or you know somewhere where you can't find it because you can't put the rocker arm back on without the cut so the proper way to go about that is obviously replace replace the rocker arms well um in situations like this all of the rocker arms let me hold you at an angle you can actually see me that's not crooked um all of the rocker arms are that way and um buying the rocker arms you are anywhere from about eighty dollars a piece to say a hundred and twenty dollars a piece for aquarons that's each there's two rocker arms per cylinder which means there's 12 rocker arms total so you're looking anywhere say from a thousand to fifteen hundred dollars just for rocker arms um and being as that plastic piece is literally only there to hold that keeper on there's not enough tolerance in this unless you really screw something up adjusting the valves there's not enough tolerance in this for once this is on for this cup to fall off i mean legitimately you would have to have screwed up the valve adjustment really bad you can see how far that goes on there you know you start there i mean it goes on there good oh shoot i'd say sixteenth of an inch maybe eighth of an inch um and uh when you're talking about you know the valve lash being a couple of thousands um if you if that cup comes off there once it's installed you're doing something wrong so um like i say there's yes the proper way to go about that would be you know change out the rocker arms get new rocker arms for it but most people can't afford to spend fifteen hundred dollars buying new rocker arms for their truck that being said that has been running that way for god only knows how many miles i mean we don't know how long that thing's been like that it could have been like that this thing i think has 150 000 on it so they could have been like that since it had 5 000 miles for all we know um and again i've put those back on like that before do i like doing it no the proper way to do it is replace the rocker arms but again there's a lot of people out there who can't afford to spend an extra fifteen hundred dollars when you're talking about a project that's already costing them you know four or five thousand dollars or whatever and so anyways i just kind of wanted to touch base on that like i said just verify that you're making sure that that cup stays on there while you're removing and installing the rock rocks something else to note is the push rods um you know these these things here with the orange mark on them are the push rods the push rods are really easy like when you pull the rocker arm out they kind of get stuck to the the push rod and so when you're um pulling the rocker out make sure that if the push rod comes out with it that it goes back in the lifter um it'll be pretty evident as long as you're paying attention um if the push rod comes out um and then it's pretty evident when it it's in its hole and it's pretty hard to get it off you know center but it can be done and so when you put it back in you'll be able to feel especially if there's um you know if there's oil already in the engine and in the lifters you can feel the push rod actually stick to the um the lifter so you like right now and push it kind of down in there and twirl it around get real good and stuck and i can actually physically pick up the lifter with the push rod and there's the very distinct you'll feel a little bit of drag anyways [Music] [Music] you
Info
Channel: Authority Garage
Views: 1,335
Rating: 5 out of 5
Keywords: Dodge, Cummins, 6.7 Cummins, Diesel, Turbo diesel, Injectors, Repair, Replacing, Mechanic, How to, Authority Garage, Automotive, Car, Truck, Vlog
Id: Yzb4aubqxhU
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 20min 48sec (1248 seconds)
Published: Thu Nov 26 2020
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