How To: 6.7 Cummins Head Gasket Replacement (part 2/2 Install)

hey guys Kyle here with our car and diesel this is the part 2 video for replacing a head gasket on 67 Cummins this is the video I'll be doing the install anyways I'll just do my quick spiel please like and subscribe if you got questions asked in the comments or looking up on Instagram with our car and diesel anyways let's get out if you're just interested in me doing certain things down below I will put fast forward times so you can skip ahead so we got the cylinder head back it's all pressure tested resurfaced it's clean it's good to go so first thing I'm gonna do here is I'm just gonna dress this cylinder head how it was when I took it off the truck like put these lifting hooks back on it put this grid heater in just with a couple of bolts cleaning up your grid heater before you put it in though only thing is I'm gonna leave these guys off until I put it back in the truck just because it'll be way easier to tighten this if this is secured onto the block so I'm just scraping off this gasket right now okay the head is all dressed up it's ready to go back in the truck now we're gonna go to the truck and get the block ready for the head okay so first thing I'm gonna do is you see these head stud or head bolt holes there I'm just gonna put a screwdriver in there to kind of get the oil to push out I'm gonna do it with a rag though just because you don't want this oil going into your coolant here if it falls in there it's fine but just try to wipe it up with a rag now what I'm gonna do is I'm just kind of I'm gonna kind of give this a little polish just buff it off this is what I'm using just you don't want to see sparks you just want to gently go over this just to kind of give it that shine back you don't want to take metal off just be very careful and be mindful where the dust and everything is shooting you you know you want to try to keep this as clean as possible [Music] okay I got the deck all nice and clean now what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna take regs I'm gonna get in here and just kind of clean out all my pistons and just get all the gunk everything you know a little debris bits of dirt everything just clean it out of your cylinders out of your pistons and just get her nice and clean for the head gasket some more thing we got to do before you put the new head gasket on is just get you know a straight edge a level something like that put it on here and see if there's any low spots it's good to get a couple feeler gauges and stick some Fila gauges under here and you know just make sure that your block isn't warped once you're happy with it everything's clean there's no debris on it then you can put your new gasket on I just want to say it once more like I said in the first video that this is just how I do it this is what works for me I've never had an issue but I don't claim to be doing it you know this is the only way to do it or this is the best way to do it this is just how I do it okay got my new head gasket typically the words face up that's not always the case but if I put that guy on here put it on my pins there there I'm just gonna check over make sure all my holes line up and that there it's not blocking any passages and yeah put the head on [Music] I ended up unplugging this this plug from here just because that kind of gave us a little grief when we pulled the head out so without unplugged we shouldn't get caught on anything when we're putting the head in here is underneath the head nice and shiny and a nice new shiny gasket it's all ready to go so when you're putting this head on there's two dollar pins one here and one back there and you're gonna just line up the head back here as best you can and then slowly lower it down onto those dowel pins and you should feel it kind of locking the place when it falls on the dowel pins yep Nick Don huh Lord down slowly song alright well I think wrong okay well the heads in it went in super well it's a good idea to just kind of check around it I put a mirror down in here so I could I went kind of like this so I could see all along there and make sure that it was there's nothing stuck under there okay so like I said we're gonna be using a RP head studs instead of bolts there's part number it will focus there this shows you your torque sequence here all your washers nuts and your studs so the reason why these are so much better is that instead of just being a bolt that just threads down and holds your head down you just kind of thread this into the into your block and then this has got fine thread up here and it'll actually you can tighten to the nut and it will clamp the head to the block instead of just kind of bolt in the head to the block so it definitely helps if you're gonna you know run some higher horsepower tuning or you know just longevity of your head gasket I always recommend doing this actually I won't even warranty a head gasket job if the customer refuses to pay the extra couple hundred bucks for head studs so so I got all the stuff out of the box here I'm gonna open this your fastener assembly lubricant and I'm just gonna put a little bit on all the threads rub it in there with a brush get them all nice and lubed up and same with the nuts I'm going to try to put a little bit on threads and the nuts I'm just gonna gently coat the washers as well just with a little bit of this lubricant I'm gonna put it all in here once they're all lubed up and ready to go we'll start putting them in the truck okay you can either do this before or after you live them up but if you kind of stem all up you're gonna notice that six of them are a little bit longer you want to pull those six bolts out or those studs out and those studs are gonna be going on the side closest to the exhaust manifold okay I got the six out I put the one next to it just as a comparison so you can see there's just a little bit shorter so this one can go back in here anyways these six you put them the coarse thread down and this allen key on top but these six are gonna go in here two three four five six so all these ones along your exhaust manifold they're gonna have the longer bolts once you have all those six studs in you can grab the rest of the studs again this side up and just put them in all the other holes now you're gonna grab a five millimeter allen key or socket like I have here and you're gonna I usually start at the front here but you're gonna tighten them all the way hand tight till they bottom out and once you have them tight you're just gonna back it off a quarter turn so you're going to do that to all of them tighten them all down hand tight till they bottomed out and then back them off a quarter turn [Music] [Music] okay all my studs are in there I did them all the way tight till they bottomed out and backed them off a quarter turn now we're gonna put all the washers on each stud and then we're going to put the nuts on okay all my washers are on now I'm gonna go ahead and put all the nuts on kill all my nuts are on I'm just using a fourteen millimeter 12 point socket with 3/8 drive right now and I'm just threading them all down to the bottom just just hand tight all right now we can torque the head studs so I'm just gonna hold the camera on here a little bit so you guys can pause it or whatever but that's the torque see current sequence right there so if you kind of look that's your exhaust manifold side on the top and that's the sequence we're doing so as you can see it'll be like 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 kind of like that just the opposite of how we took the head the head bolts out we're putting the head studs in from the middle out just to prevent warping as we tighten it so yeah first torque is 40 foot-pounds second torque is 80 foot pounds and the final torque is 125 foot-pounds so you're gonna torque them three times personally on the third final torque I usually just go up to 130 foot pounds but that's just me okay first torque is done now I'm going to torque them to 80 I'm still just using this three-eighths torque wrench for the final torque I will have to go up to use and a half inch torque wrench but this one's small and it works good for now so see if we can get eighty out of this guy there we go hey that's the second torque one more torque to go 125 foot-pounds like I said I usually do higher in 30s but it's up to you I [Applause] usually click them place each time on the final torque okay they're all torqued down one thing we're gonna have to do is this rocker arm kind of housing there we're gonna have to do a little bit machining on it that's on this guy here but we're gonna do that when we have to put it on so next we're gonna do is we're gonna put this exhaust manifold back on so just get your new gaskets put them in there put your bolts in remember these front ones have studs for that heat shield the back bottom ones should have a stud for that coolant line I don't think the 2013 and newer 6-7 Cummins had that cool line coolant line but if they do you got to put it back on also but this turbo coolant line hook that all back up yeah we'll just get this all mounted back up to the side of the head okay I got all the gaskets and studs in place here now I'm just going to tighten them all up to 32 foot-pounds and start at the middle and work your way out so do this one first and this one bottom one's gonna work your way out as you torque them all to 32 foot-pounds okay the exhaust manifold is all torque down I got the coolant line that runs underneath it I got it bolted up there's a bracket up here and one on the backs of the stud it's connected so I'm gonna put these two coolant fittings in get that cab heater hose on and put my dipstick bracket up back on kind of just finish everything on the passenger side okay that's all done up now you can pivot your alternator back on bolt your alternator back up and put your belt on okay once you go your alternator back on you got your belt on there's these wires your grid heater wire and these guys here bracket their bracket their zip tie on back up we're gonna leave this upper rad hose off for right now though just because it's going to be a little bit easier to see down in there when we're doing our valve set so just get all this wiring mounted and and stop back up I got a little bit ahead of myself forgot to put this guy on this heat shield on your exhaust manifold so I'm just gonna quickly slop that on right now okay heat shields on I got this exhaust pressure tube just in there loose my nice new fancy tube electrical is all tied up here so now before I forget we're gonna go back here and that fuel line that goes on the back of the head back here we're gonna put that one on it should just be this banjo bolt and these two washers seal washers so I just yeah make sure you these washers are in and put it on okay the fuel line is down at the back of the head now we're gonna go ahead and put the injectors in okay so what we're gonna do you're gonna put new copper washers and ol rings on the injectors so I just use a really small flathead screwdriver just kind of get it in here just kind of pry it up be very careful with these injectors especially the tip just you don't want to wreck nothing so kind of just work it and there that's one off and the o-ring that's pretty easy just kind of get it off there [Music] boom and that's it so I'm going to take off the copper washers and the o-rings on all the other five injectors and then we'll talk about putting the new stuff on okay I usually give them a little saw to break clean clean them up a bit and use like this whatever scotch brite or SOS pad or whatever and just kind of clean up this tip a bit make sure you got all the sets off of it okay once you're happy with how clean it is you get your new copper washer it doesn't matter which way you put it on but put it on there just kind of get it going then it's gonna it's gonna you're probably gonna be able to put on about that far so we're gonna use a socket and just gently tap it on I'm just using the shallow 3/8 socket here you can also use a ten millimeter or something like that but you said gently tap it on [Music] just like that and then with the o-ring I just put a little bit of petroleum jelly on it if you use oil whatever then just slide it on kind of roll it over just like that another way that works good to put these copper washers on is just kind of get started like that and grab the socket just put it down actually put down dots away line it up and then just kind of press it down like that done okay so I'm just putting some Trillium jelly on my or ring you can use oil or whatever you prefer and they get this guy make sure you have it lined up right so just peek in the hole first make sure there's nothing in your injector hole so here is where your feed tube is going to go so that is gonna go to towards the driver's side so just make sure you have it orientated correctly again that hole goes to the right side then you're just gonna set your injector in there and then I just use my two thumbs and you're just gonna push it down and you're gonna feel it snap into place just like that now you're gonna get your two injector pulled down bolts thread them in hand tight and you notice that this can kind of pivot you want to keep that as level as possible so when we tighten it we're gonna tighten you know one turn on the right side and the one turn on the left side okay so your first torque is gonna be forty four inch pounds so see I'm tightening a bit on each side just to kind of keep it level as it gets tight [Music] there we go double-check this son and that's not our final torque we have to put our fuel tubes in first and then do a loose torque on them as well and then we finally final torque these and then final torque the field tubes but yeah that is how you're gonna put your injector in for right now so get them all in and torque them down to 44 inch pounds okay all six injectors are in there just remember these injectors have to go back in the same hole they came out and it's even more important that these fuel tubes go in to the same injector they came out of that's why it's important to keep everything in order so anyways I'm gonna put my number six injector fuel tube in now I'm gonna do all of them but yeah what I do is I'm gonna spray it out with brake clean and some air you know just clean it all out these are rings I'm not gonna bother changing them because they still look fine but I'm gonna put more petroleum jelly or you could use oil on this o-ring and then I see how they got that tab on the top that's where they're orientated in a certain way and they're the same thing you put them in and push on them and they'll just kind of go pop into place just like the injector did so this one's going in cylinder three so that little tab has to be up so you kind of if you turn it to the side you can kind of feel right there where the tab goes in and then just like the injectors you're just gonna pop them in just like that okay once all your fuel tubes are in you're gonna put the lock nuts on I already got the back three done but yeah just make sure they're clean and spin it on okay now these feed tube nuts we're gonna torque them all to 11 foot-pounds just 11 right now there we go okay once you have all your feed tube tubes torque down to 11 foot-pounds we can go back to the injectors and we're going to torque the injector hold-down bolts to 89 inch pounds and that will be your final torque again try to kind of alternate from side to side so you're screwing the nut there the bolts down evenly okay once you have these injector hold-down bolts torqued to 89 inch pounds you can torque the fuel tube nuts to 37 foot pounds okay so the fuel injector is and the tubes are all in and torqued to spec now we're gonna put the high-pressure fuel rail back in before you put this fuel rail in make sure you give it a good bath with brake clean spray it out with air like see right there there's some stuff stuck in those holes you don't want any crud or any dirt or anything in those holes so just give it a good clean before you put it in the truck I'm leaving this bolt out here just because that's what this oil dipstick mounts to but I don't want to put it back up there quite yet okay my fuel rail is in I connected these lines to remember to go down on your cp3 pump and tighten that one that you loosened just to pivot the line over so make sure all those lines are tight I also put this one bracket in there back one so now I'm gonna go find my new gasket make sure this surface is nice and clean and surface on your intake elbow is clean and we can put the intake elbow back in okay intake horn is back in I left this bolt loose for right now though just because I I want to leave this off to the side for now but yeah we can go and we can start putting these fuel injector lines back in start at the back work your way up to the front and just again spray them out with brake clean and air just so that they're all clean they don't have any contamination in it because you don't want any contamination to get into your fuel injectors so clean them all up nice and start putting them back on so when I'm putting these injector lines on I just spin them up hand tight just like this I'm not sure on the actual torque spec I never looked it up I'm sure you could find it easy but just guys snug it up and then just once you kind of feel like get tight I usually just give it a little snug just like that so this one here so snug there grab another bite just like that should be good give it a give it a good snug but definitely don't over tighten it once you got all your fuel injector lines in and they're tightened up we will put the pushrods rocker bridges and the rocker arms in okay so we got a push rod wipe it down I usually kind of just look down make sure it's nice and straight if you want you can get it on a flat surface and you can roll it and just make sure it rolls smooth and kind of wobble but this pushrods good again these all have to go in the same place they came out of and here I have some 1540 synthetic engine oil which is the oil I'll be using and what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna dip the bottom of the pushrod in the oil and then I'm gonna go install it in its proper hole remember these ones back here kind of hard because you have to put them up in that hole in the firewall but so that's one of them make sure the ends are all clean see how this one has a bunch of crud in it so I'm just gonna blast that out with a shot of brake clean before I put it in so just show you if you don't get the push on in the right spot it's kind of gonna fall down like that so you want them all to be kind of sticking up like the ones you can see in all those guys so you kind of just got a fish around there I found the spot and it's almost like when you put the push on in it almost sticks in there like I got to kind of pull it and then it'll pop out but you can kind of feel like grabbing in its right hole so but they should all look they're gonna vary a little bit in height because of where the camshaft is but they should all be you know just a little bit above all these head head studs okay now we're gonna put these rocker bridges in I already have the back three cylinders done see they have this little kind of nipple here it's a little bit bigger of a hole on that side I've seen them in engines you know this way that way I've seen him make mixed and mashed this one they were all pointed towards the driver's side so that's just how I'm gonna put them all back I like if they're all consistently the same way so yeah you can just set those in okay we can put our rockers back in now so remember we took them all off in the same order we're putting all back in in the same order so kind of hold them all together in one piece and set down on top of where it goes make sure the push rods are in and yeah then you can tighten it down I should also add that with these rockers check these little pivots here that go on your rocker bridges just make sure they're not falling apart and that they still wobble smoothly and if they don't and if they're really rough then you might want to get a new a new rocker arm for whichever one it is so the rocker bolts are getting torqued to 27 foot-pounds okay so now with all of the valvetrain assembly here tight we can do a valve adjustment so actually on the front of your engine you got your harmonic balancer and there's a line on it and we have to get that line right up to 12 o'clock position so it's kind of hard for me to show on the camera but I I'm gonna go underneath there I'm gonna find the line and then I usually use a paint marker and I just kind of give it a little a mark so that when I look from up here I can see it like there it is down there that's this is not the line that's just the pulley but I can see it a lot better from up here if I put a paint line on it so go ahead and do that okay so I'm on to the truck now I just have a 15 millimeter socket on a half-inch bar to turn it over just turning right on one of the bolts for this harmonic balancer so here you can see that says TDC and see how hard it is to see that so what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna mark it with a paint marker okay there I got it marked so now it's going to be much easier to see from the top of the engine so what we got to do now is we got to rotate this to be exactly twelve o'clock so straight up in the upright position so usually get a guy up there watching and you can slowly crank this engine over turn it clockwise okay if we can see down here you can kind of see an angle but there's the white line it's exactly in the 12 o'clock position you can kind of see that and so you're either gonna be on top dead center one or top dead center six I personally like to be on one and I start with one and I am on one because here's my cylinder one and both of my rockers are loose if I go back to cylinder six that one's got a tiny bit of play in it but sounds real tight so I know I'm on TDC one okay so first I want to say these are the intake arms and these are the exhaust arms so intake is smaller exhaust is bigger so at cylinder one TDC which is what we are because these are both loose we can adjust the intake cylinders one two and four so it should all be loose so one two and four yeah they're loose and then we can also do exhaust 1 3 & 5 so 1 3 & 5 so the Cummins factory valve wash specs if you're setting them I don't know if you can read it but it's 10,000 the intake and then it is 26 thou on the exhaust so see these are actually stepper gauges they work really good so the first half on this one is 10th out and the second half is 1200 they're easy because I can slide it in there it should kind of tightly slide in the first and then it shouldn't go past this half mark so that's the those are the the gauges I use I'll just show you how to do one here we're gonna do the intake on cylinder one so with it loose like this kind of hold your rocker bridge down and lift it up and just see and see that's way too loose this thing goes right through it all the way so what you got to do if you haven't already backed off this adjusting nut you gotta do that and then you're just gonna grab an allen key here and you're gonna turn it in I usually kind of turn it all the way in so it's a little tight and then back it off and go from there so I kind of try that now kind of got a fight with a bit you can sometimes put the gauge on it too and kind of just gently tighten it on to the gauge just so that the gauge will go in so see there it slides in but it doesn't slide on to the twelfth L but the tenth hours in there and it's got a little bit of friction so you don't want to slide in there too easy so that's what I like so what I'm gonna do now is I'm going to hold it in that position and I'm going to tighten this nut here the lock nut just like that and then double check it once more so there see it goes in a little tight but that's good and it won't go past that half mark so this valve is adjusted and what I do when I adjust the valve is I just get a paint marker and just go like that so I know this valve is done and you can move on to the next one okay so I've done my intake on cylinder one two and four I've also adjusted my exhaust and cylinder one three and five so now they're five and six are a little bit fun to get back there to adjust the valves but anyways these are all tight the nuts are torqued to 18 foot pounds so now what we're going to do is we're gonna go back down to our crankshaft pulley and we're going to rotate it exactly 360 degrees we're gonna get that top dead center mark up again and what that's going to do is that's gonna put cylinder six at the back on top dead center and then we can adjust the rest of the valves [Music] there's my line that's halfway there halfway to go okay if you can see down there right down there I got the mark on my crankshaft pulley it's right up at the 12 o'clock position okay so now that you have it back up at 12 o'clock position you're stealing that one here should be tight see how that's tight and then you're still in there six here now it's loose and that one's loose that's good and now you can adjust the rest of the valves so you should have intake on cylinder three cylinder five and cylinder six and you shove exhaust on cylinder two cylinder four and cylinder six basically everything that you didn't do the first time you can do now okay all the valves are adjusted to spec now personally the what I do is I'm gonna go I'm gonna crank the engine over just with my ratchet on the crankshaft pulley there I'm gonna crank it over you know a few times anyways and then I'm gonna set TDC one and I'm gonna check my valve lash again on all of them and then I'm gonna set to TDC six I'll rotate at 360 degrees I'm gonna check my valve lash again just because sometimes you might notice after you crank the engine over a little bit it will loosen up okay my valve steps all done I crank the engine over a couple times by hand and check my valves again and they actually a few of them had loosened up so I'm glad I did that so anyways now we can grab this upper rod hose and put it on there obviously I always recommend using a new thermostat when you're doing a head gasket so I'm gonna just go get my new thermostat and flopper in there okay now we can put this rocker housing piece in this is how it sits in the truck this is the back and we need to actually modify this a bit for to fit in that with that head stud because the head stud head stud comes up and actually hits up here so we have to cut this out I'll grab a paint marker and just show what I'm gonna cut out I don't know if you can kind of see that but that's just where I'm gonna cut it out the picture on the instructions see that's how they have a cutout and it's showing how they cut it out I'm just gonna use a little die grinder and I'm just gonna blast that aluminum over there there it's all it's all drilled out and this is ready to go on I'm just going to take this gasket out replace the gasket with a new one and spray this off with brake clean and air and then put it on like anything I was tight from the inside out now you can put your injector harness gasket back in I'm using a new one but you could use your old one and just be fine these do not need to be very tight I just can't go I'm just doing it with like a nut driver once you get it all the way screwed down I just give it a little tighten like that that's it very low torque specs do not over tighten these [Music] [Music] trying to pour some oil over top of the rockers and the valve springs back there if you have a little oil squirt gun it's best to just to kind of get back there and lube up all the parts they're gonna get oil it seems to get oil pressure when you fire it up but it's good to just kind of pre lube them so they're not running dry there you can put the valve cover back on once you got the valve cover in you can put your crankcase ventilation filter in I always recommend putting a nice new filter in because guys tend to overlook this part of their maintenance so put your CCD filter cover on now how there's all this electrical these hoses this dipstick there's a bolt back there for it basically well and you got this guy we unplug to get the cylinder head in just all this electrical bolt it back up and plug everything in okay all my electrical hoses and everything brackets are bolted up on the driver's side if you have an easier system on your truck this is when you're gonna you know have to put everything back in place but as for me this is it so last thing I'm gonna do I'm gonna change my fuel filter just because we had a lot of fuel lines and everything open don't want to get any contamination I feel like a nice fresh fuel filter will be good and I'm also gonna do an oil change on it leaving this air intake pipe out just so I can get out this oil filter very easily so yeah I'm gonna do fuel filter oil change and I'm gonna fill the coolant and then we'll see we'll get it running I always use a new rad cap every time I do a head gasket job but yeah oil change is done fuel filter has been changed it's topped up with coolant this guy is vacuum batteries are hooked up so now one more thing before I crank is I'm going to actually just loosen this front injector fuel line a bit just so we can bleed out all the air out of the system as I crank the truck over it's a little loose there so we'll watch for fuel coming out there before you do it I just grab this fan and give it a spin make sure it's not gonna hit on anything do one final kind of check over make sure you don't have any tools laying around and yeah you can get your buddy or yourself if you're doing it with two guys that works better again the crank it and while you watch before you try to start the truck if you change the feel filter just turn the key on for 30 seconds and shut it off turn it on again for 30 seconds do that a couple times it should just help prime your fuel filter okay Craig Carter here is cleaning up a nice diesel spill because when he changed the fuel filter he never shuts that that drain plug so when we were trying to prime our system it was just all pissed on on the ground so hey Carter yeah okay we got some diesel fuel coming from there so we're just gonna tighten up this injector line now okay our fuel lines tight so I'll crank her again there you go [Applause] okay so once it's running good you know check your oil check your coolant level check for leaks look underneath it I'm gonna park this thing on side lid idle for a bit and then go take it for a drive and drive it up to temperature and then do one final check over all the fluids and everything but ya should be pretty good hopefully yours one as well as this one okay well that concludes my video for head gasket replacement on 6-7 Cummins I feel like you should be able to follow along if you're pretty decent with a wrench if you liked the video if found useful please like and please subscribe I put a lot of work into making this video for you guys maybe I forgot any questions asked in the comments or looking up on instagram at dar car and diesel anyways guys thank you for watching

Channel: Dark Iron Diesel

Views: 19,385

Rating: 4.9647889 out of 5

Keywords: headgasket, cummins, 6.7, valve, valve set, valve adjustment, how to

Id: 4WWMHoTitHs

Length: 41min 59sec (2519 seconds)

Published: Fri Mar 27 2020