6.7 Cummins - Shimming the fuel release

okay this is round two of shimming we purely smell on the 6.7 liter Cummins let's say it's round 2 because the first time I got to this point where I had my fuel release valve already removed I turns out that TSI mean a wrong type of back off not to actually screw on there and back it off as you can tell by looking at the incorrect nut this is a really coarse thread pitch and it doesn't match up with this right here now when you try to throw them together of course it only goes in about that bar and it stops now at this point if you happen to wind up with this just put it back together either call TS and get the correct nut they'll send it to you free of charge or you might be able to go down to your specialty nut house and actually get the correct nut which although it has not been confirmed by anybody I believe that this is a 18 millimeter by 1.5 thread Fitch metric nut it's not exactly readily available at your average Home Depot Lowe's or any one of those places but any specialty nut house should have it now of course with the way things go I haven't actually heard of anybody else on any forums having a problem with the incorrect nights I seem to be one of the very few had this issue and the truck doesn't run very well doubt this part in here and it makes it really hard to get the truck out of the driveway to go down to the store and get the correct nut so something to check for and be aware of before you begin the process of actually digging out the fuel release ok the theory on what we're doing here is in order to shim the fuel release we need to remove this part right here from this back piece now I don't know all of the official names of these parts I'm just kind of going off of this piece in that piece supporting to notice two on the fuel rail valve there are these little indentations and actually hold this piece in now the purpose of the nut which I've been referring to as the backup nut on a lot of the forum's is we screw it down to the end here being careful of the rubber washer doesn't have to go the whole way down you don't have to really get on it and tighten it in there and I really wouldn't do that because my nut isn't really finished very well a couple of sides and a little bit sharp there we don't want to tear up that little row ring that's on the end of it but just has to go on far enough to where this end is sticky we're going to put this and into a vise and turn the nut until it pulls this part away from this part right here and inside there we're going to find the spring and we're going to find a little plate with some holes in it and a little tiny pin that we're going to be really careful we don't lose and also worth mentioning is that if you have access to a three jaw Chuck or even a call it set up like on a lathe I would use that as opposed to just a regular flat job vise like what I have here which is from a Chinese drill press it's not exactly the best but I'm going to try to closely duplicate the way the instructions have us do it and we'll see what we get from that okay so here's the setup in the vise one of the things I noticed is as we're trying to turn this nut and pull us apart that the back partner likes to turn in the back part of its turning you're basically just splitting the whole assembly around you're not actually getting any tension to pull this off so what I'm going to do is put a 18 millimeter wrench on the back of it right here on this side see you're trying to work around a tripod I normally don't set video most of what I'm doing in my shop and say okay like that and I have a crescent wrench right here for actually getting on the nut and turning it we're actually going to be turning the nut in the direction that we would take it back off of the fuel release and I'm told there's some spring tension behind here so I'm keeping my finger behind it cause we don't want things flying up and weighing it across the shop particularly not my shot because it's very slight chance we're actually going to find anything in here [Music] it looks like I can get the rest of it with my hand here I'm blocking the camera a little bit not only much to see here anyway okay so now it's all loosened up let's see what we have here on the inside all right there's our little spring right there and we're actually going to be pulling this out and the shims are going to go in behind it right down in that little hole and I'll stop the cow for a second here and try to get a look inside the end of the cap here and see what's inside there okay so here we are looking at you disassembled fuel release valve kind of any order that it came apart and where everything goes down here are the shims that are supplied by TS for the purpose of shimming the fuel release I'm told they are number four stainless steel washers the most important part the part people seem to have the biggest problem with is this little tiny pin right here try to get up a little bit closer to the camera it actually sits down inside here inside the hole is at the backside of the mule-faced this direction and without this pin the engine doesn't run or doesn't run very well and it's quite easy to lose it and it's quite easy to just have it fall out and it's very difficult to find it now once you have lost particularly if you're kind of a slob like me now it's a little hard to see on the camera here but this actually is directional it has a pointed end and a flat end on it the pointed end goes back down inside the fuel release cap here pointed to toward the direction of the rail so kind of like that the next piece we have is this washer with the three holes in it which sits in right here and then we have the spring part which the spring part kind of goes on it like no it's not going to stay there but spring part actually goes down inside here and then on the standard unit it all fits together like that now what we're going to be doing is putting these shims in I can pick them up in behind the spring and this is to change the pressure at which this fewer lease valve actually releases and the spring goes in on top of that and there we have it only up do now is put it back in our vise put it back together and re crimp the little indentations that we're showing earlier on the sides okay one thing to note here is that if you take yours apart and this piece does not fall out there's a really good chance that your pin also has a fault if any can fall out unless this comes out first so if it doesn't fall out you shouldn't have to worry too much about the about the pin now on mine it was actually held together very well because there's a lot of fuel down inside there and it had kind of a suction effect and just keeping everything in there now okay so here we are at shimming the fuel release valve on 6.7 liter Cummins just because i'm curious about such things i decided to go ahead and measure the thickness of all these shims put together and it's coming out to about ninety thousandths of an inch total for all three of these little washers and actually a little bit last bit we'll call it 90 so now we take the shims and we take the or fuel release valve the shims go down inside like so we take our spring like so and we want to make sure that if our little plate here with the holes in it has actually come off the back of the cap that the pin is still down inside the cap you don't want to put this all back together again with this little pin right there it's kind of hard to see on the camera here but we'll put all back together without missing so we want to sure that's in there and we put this back on top okay the next part of the reassembly process is putting the cap back on the plug here and we pointed out these indentations right here in long the sign of cat burgler when we disassemble the plug and if you look right here on the side we have a recessed area where those indentations go in there and actually hold this part in TS recommends that we put some cardboard on one side of our vise and I just cut the side of their box off you just shove it in there also important to keep in mind is with the shims underneath here this spring tension is a little bit higher than it was we took it apart so it's going to be pushing out a little bit more and want to make sure that we crimp these well and also keep your finger when we pull it out so that it doesn't go flying off across the shop okay so here is the whole thing ready for reassembly now with the shims behind it I can't really press this back in there with my fingers so then I have to kind of get it in the vise somehow this is the end it should be facing out so we have the other end facing out it's incorrect and it won't run get this in the vise with one of the indentations or a little crimps lawyers we have to pound facing up so I can get to it with my little punch going to take a little bit of tension to get this thing in here okay and it flattens out right there can't turn the vise much further and you don't really have to hammer down on the vise to get it in there you just kind of get it in there so it's seated I'm going to take my little Center punch here and my little hammer just tap the indentations back down rotate it you want to do this three times push it on there tap it down turn it for the last one and tap this one down there and that's it that Shimon if air release valve for vampy eight installation on a six point seven we are

Channel: Tim G

Views: 57,560

Rating: 4.7704916 out of 5

Keywords: Untitled, 0001

Id: OEWPa_NZ8Ro

Length: 10min 39sec (639 seconds)

Published: Sun Dec 14 2008