6.0 Power Stroke not Fixed - More Leaks + No Start

it is way too cold we got a comeback and it's a double whammy this is the 2005 F350 that I put the valve cover gaskets on there it is guess what one of the bolts is stripped Do not drop the tiny [Music] wrench it's like one of those mcer paintings where it looks like it should work but then if you think about it it just doesn't he says it's still leaking oil and even worse now it won't start so I don't know what's going on uh he called me and he couldn't get it started so I went up to his house couldn't get it started I charged the batteries took him back couldn't get it started sprayed it with ether it wouldn't run on ether I just wiggled some cables and for whatever reason it started and it drove here but now it cranks and it it won't start I check the obvious things it has fuel it has oil batteries are good it cranks over just fine the glow plugs I'm not sure if they're working which we probably need them today it's very cold but it should at least try to start okay we're going to watch this ICP pressure while I crank it should be I don't know at least 500 PSI I would think yeah 1,600 that should do it so yeah we have fuel and we have enough pressure to fire the injectors so I don't know what the problem is Let's uh look at the tack I guess while we crank it oh there it tried to start the tack is working maybe it'll go wouldn't that be something [Music] son of a biscuit well that's [Applause] annoying well it is leaking it appears to be the oil pan the uh what do they call that the upper pan or the Cradle or whatever I think is also leaking a bit that is not an easy job on these six l so the book says you got to pull the engine guys tell me that you can just Jack it up I guess and get the oil pan out I don't know if that's a job I want to do it would appear that the front timing cover is also leaking yeah it's snowing that's not supposed to be here boy it's leaking a lot it's kind of weird it doesn't seem to leak at all when it's running but it definitely makes up for it when it's not running so yeah I think it's definitely the oil pin gasket I don't see any oil above so it's got this the regular pan and then what they call the upper upper pan it's kind of a weird setup and then above that is another thing called the bed plate I believe and then there's also a rear cover so there's a lot of places that it can leak let's check the front cover yeah I think that was a false alarm I was spraying everything down with brake clean and it probably just dripped some Grime down it looked like a leak or it might be leaking a little bit but not as bad as the oil pan so I think we're doing an oil pan gasket and I did some research it appears that it can be done without pulling the engine so we're going to give it a whirl okay we're going to remove the radiator support [Music] [Music] [Applause] s okay now the whole radiator should come up with the engine it's kind of designed to do that okay the oil is drained you never want to put a drain plug in fingertight if you're putting it in put a Rin on it so we got to push on the damper to raise the front of the engine I think if we take this steering damper off we can reach it [Music] hopefully I don't know if she's coming out of there let's see what the Astro 498 has to say about it little bit of tool abuse off camera and I got it Loose that's a little sketchy but I think it'll work I'm going to pull these nuts off the engine mount the driver side's a little easier you can get all those with an impact but passenger side we're not so lucky there we go it's a little precarious but I'm going to use this screw Jack to push on a 2x4 which pushes on the front pulley the damper and we're going to lift the front of the engine as high as we can you don't have to go that far you know that far would probably be enough to get the pan out if you're on a two- poost lift I strongly advise you to also block the rear we want to lift the engine not tip the thing off the lift okay we're already going up not even tight well there's your problem it's a little tricky to get some of these bolts but you can do it I got a/ qu inch socket with a swivel if I can see it would be a lot easier all right let get the idea it's loose okay the pan won't come all the way out because of the pickup tube so I got to reach up in there somehow that's one oh so [Music] close all right you guys are in my way there it is piece of [Music] cake and there's the upper oil pan okay I clean most of the goo off the upper oil pan pull this gasket out so it's a standard molded rubber o-ring style gasket pretty standard international design they work pretty well it's just these engines are getting old [Music] looks pretty clean so I got a new gasket it's the blue from you know who I'm sure Motorcraft would be better but with the strike going on Beggars can't be choosing users tell you guys a story at my last real job my main responsibility was figuring out how to Machine cast aluminum parts like this and I can tell you that this is not an easy part to machine or cheap and the main reason is this groove so it's probably what about 4 mm wide and maybe 5 or 6 mm deep and that Groove has to be machined all the way way around and you can only do it with a tiny little 4mm endmill which even with a high RPM spindle can only move so fast and the biggest problem is you're going to get a burr here at the top after you cut the groove so what we would do is make custom endmills that had a radius on the bottom and kind of a chamfer shape ground into them but those are expensive ensive and they don't last very long and the other problem is the flatness this is a big part you know probably 600 700 mm wide and they would want this flat within probably 0.1 maybe2 mm which is not going to happen cuz you machine one side it curls up like this you machine the other side and it curls back but it doesn't always go the way you think it would plus you have to hold on to it so it doesn't chatter it's very tricky that looks good then when you get it all machined you have to leak test it because cast aluminum can be porous and leak testing a big casting like this it can be more timec consuming than than Machining it okay same thing on the bottom side they give you a little locating feature so you know where to start okay these guys can fit in pretty tight so you don't have to worry about them falling out okay ready to install before we reinstall the upper pan I want to check all the threads so if there's one stripped out now is the time to deal with it these are tiny little bolts and they're only supposed to be torqued to I think 10 foot- PBS it's very easy to strip them out so obviously I cleaned off the bottom of the bed plate I think they call [Music] [Applause] [Music] it okay now the oil pan with the pickup tube I also installed a new o-ring on the pickup tube okay now the fun starts somehow we got to get that pickup tube installed if you want to put a torque wrench on that more power to you but I'm not oh God [Applause] [Music] [Music] okay okay I think I got them all started which is probably the hardest part I would not suggest power tools even a an air ratchet or cordless ratchet's got plenty of torque to strip out these tiny little bolts I mean I've seen bigger oil pan bolts on a Honda Civic she's all torqued up might as well set her down that's it I hate this aftermarket crap I had two different 6 L power stroke oil filters on the shelf and neither one of them will work so this one is the extra tall one where you have to replace the cap that won't work with this aftermarket cap this one has a big warning note with it that says that it cannot be used with the spring style Center Post so that's not very helpful luckily I was able to get a Motorcraft oh there's still some kind of ongoing patent war with these oil filters okay there we go and we'll hook up our bypass line okay let's see if it'll start still dripping it appears to be coming from the rear main seal area I don't remember it leaking there before and it's really black so I think we're just going to hope that that is residual oil that ran down while the pan was off and we're going to call this project done at least for now I'll let him take it and if he's still not happy with it we can go further I'm not above throwing a crank sensor at it in fact I already bought one the problem is excess the more you work on these 6 L power strokes the more you realize that very little about them makes any sense it's back behind those transmission lines kind of behind this big cable here battery cable sort of under the AC compressor you can't even see it you can't even see the wires going to it yeah I guess if it screws up again we'll go after it but I can't fix it if it's not broken all right we got another crank no start condition check out the TAC nothing keep an eye on this fium sink it should go to [Music] yes and it does not so that's got to be a problem yeah we had good ICP pressure so it should have fired the injectors okay let's watch the RPMs as we crank it let's try that [Music] again 55 yeah I think that's a problem I've got the scope out and I'm tapped into the crank position sensor wires at the PCM I can't get to it down at the sensor so this is as good as it gets and of course it's trying to run uh looks pretty normal dang it fixed itself again well I'm not sure what to make of this the signal looks good I mean it's a pretty standard two wire inductive Magneto reluctance sensor signal 135 RPMs cranking seems reasonable I don't see a problem however the computer seems to have seen a problem so we got a p2617 crank position signal output circuit open yeah I hate to throw Parts at it but I think that's where we're at this is so intermittent I can't catch it in the ACT okay I think I'm on the screw okay I got the bolt out of it at just barely peeking out right there I see the problem there's a little notch in the connector and a little rib in the sensor and they don't line up somebody's been here before and they filed down the rib on the old sensor these had the same part number not really sure what to make of this somebody's been here obviously and they kind of knew what they were doing but they also kind of screwed it up so this pigtail has been replaced and it was done correctly These are nice adhesive line shrink tube splices exactly how I would have done it but this is the wrong connector it looks right but if you compare it to the actual correct connector there's a subtle difference this slot is on the opposite side and instead of obtaining the right connector they just filed the tab off the sensor and made it work now that's not ideal but I don't really see how that would cause a problem and you still have good connection I thought maybe the polarity would be wrong it shouldn't matter cuz it's an AC sensor but they had it right so electrically I don't see a problem with this I've got the correct connector I'm going to splice it in and then we will install a new sensor with the correct tab not even going to try to record that I can barely even see it let alone try to film it but I am going to use this handy little tool here that a viewer sent me thank you Carlos this is a wire stripper that's 90° so you can reach down into a tight area clip onto your wire and strip it pretty cool the pigtail and crank sensor are installed I don't want to talk about it [Applause] [Music] well it works see if it looks any different yeah I'd say it's about the same I the voltage looks a little higher it to me it looks a lot cleaner but I don't know if that really means anything yeah you can see this is where it changes okay well at least it runs we're done this went way further than I [Applause] [Music] expected that's it we're done it starts and it doesn't leak oil how long it stays that way is anybody's guess thanks for [Music] watching if anybody out there can recommend a good pair of running shoes that will actually hold up love to hear it they're only about 2 months [Music] old 15 minutes [Music] w oh

Channel: Watch Wes Work

Views: 215,128

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Id: ORPhQ4rTQMM

Length: 26min 0sec (1560 seconds)

Published: Sun Nov 05 2023