4L60E REBUILD

back to dude we can fix it if you missed out on the 4l60e transmission disassembly watch the previous video first but we're going to start with the 4l60e [Music] reassembly [Music] so this is our frictions and our steel plates this is our sun shell here with a new band this is our new this is our new valve body gasket we got a new valve body or a we got a new drain pan gasket we have some new pistons over here we have a new filter we have new shift solenoids we have some new bushings and we have a whole bunch of other new o-rings and parts that come with the overhaul kit we ordered this kit from transmissionbench.com and we also have some transmission assembly lube which is very important we're going to be using a small bucket of transmission fluid to dip some of these parts in and you'll also need a torque wrench for some of these sections coming up what you didn't see from the last video is we went ahead and cleaned up the rest of the transmission body here got it all nice and clean we cleaned it in our parts cleaner with paint thinner and just a couple of brushes and scrapers and so now we are ready to begin the reassembly all right so before we start rebuilding this we have to check a few things first we're going to make sure that the check ball in here for the 3 4 clutch does not leak inside the casing we're also going to look to see if the bore is oblong so if we come here you can see this bore is nice and round if it looks like it has uneven wear you may want to check to see if there's play in there and you can do that by removing this rod you'll have to remove this clip retainer and spring then you can take this rod out and insert it into this board and make sure that there's not much side to side play what we're going to be focusing on now though is a check ball right there inside of a capsule we will take our transmission and get it level like that and then we're going to drop a 50 50 mixture into that hole there 50 50 mixture of transmission fluid and mineral spirits or paint thinner if that's what you have around and we'll drop it down into that hole and it should bypass into this servo area and not into the the casing now we have a 50 50 mixture to get the right viscosity you don't need much just pour a little bit into that hole all right see it coming in here you can see that some of that fluid has come down in here but in here it's nice and dry i'm going to pour a little bit more in let's see fluid there once again nothing in here now if you have fluid coming on the inside that means that that check ball has failed and it's inside of a little cartridge so you'll need to remove it it's right down in there and install a new one this one does not have that problem so we will not be needing to do that but do that check before you rebuild this because that could cause your three four clutches to fail prematurely so the last thing that we're going to check before we start reassembly is this bushing here you'll look to make sure that it is smooth all the way around and it doesn't have any deep scoring in it you can see that there is one oil galley in there and that is on purpose if you do need to replace it this is what the bushing looks like it does have a spot on here it looks like a puzzle piece if you see that on the inside of the bushing do not be alarmed and if you do have to replace this which luckily we don't you'll need a bushing driver and also notice that this has two slots in it you will want to mark on the casing where those slots are and then when you install your new bushing make sure that it lines up in the same spot so we're going to go ahead and move on next thing we want to do is remove the three seals from the low reverse piston now we are ready to reinstall some new seals all right so now we're going to want to use some transmission assembly lube whatever brand you get make sure that it is just transmission assembly lube not brake grease or anything like that because it will not dissolve correctly into the transmission fluid and we're just going to apply a little bit around all of these seals that we just put in that way when we apply it to the casing it doesn't bind up now i'm also going to apply some lube to all the surfaces that those seals will be riding on so this surface here this inside surface here and the surface in here i'm also going to grease up this tab right here that tab corresponds to a slot in the casing right here so now we'll line this tab up with that slot and we'll set this down in here all right now we'll use our output shaft to tap the piston down a little bit i think that's it next we will take our spring cage and set it in there then we'll take our c-clip and set it in there now we'll go ahead and get our compression tool in place we've made some slight adjustments to our tool to make our hole more centered all right so now we're going to get the snap ring in place the snap ring is in and now we can remove our our tension tool all right so we got the snap ring in and we took out our homemade press joe's going to explain the technique that he ended up using to get the snap ring in there though all right so i took two screwdrivers two long screwdrivers longest ones we have and i'll reach in around the mount and press one side of my snap ring down kind of hold it in place and i took the other and i just worked it all the way around and got the snap ring to open up and slide on down and pop into place and if you have strong hands you may be able to hold one end down with a screwdriver and work it around with your hand the snap ring itself is not very strong in nature so it is maneuverable a bit and if you bend down the spring cage a little bit you can put a screwdriver in and bend up those sections to get it back relatively flat it doesn't have to be perfect it's rather forgiving all the way in the back of the transmission there but if you have some serious indentions you can use a small flat head to pry the pry those indentions out all right so now we're going to need our output hub and our ring gear and our thrust bearing take this bearing off here and you'll notice that there's an inside lip and an outside lip the outside lip is attached to the part facing up off of here and the inside lip is attached to the shinier side that goes on like that don't put this on backwards now if you like hummus you're in luck because this is the perfect size container for us to pre-lube our small parts so we'll fill that with some transmission fluid and we'll go ahead and submerge our thrust bearing in there to lube it up real good all right next we'll inspect our hub make sure that it's not cracked or scored or have any other defects on it everything looks good here so we'll go ahead put a little lube on there we'll take this which normally sits this way and we'll set this face down in here then we'll take our entire hub and set it down in there it should spin freely just as it does here all right so now we're going to take our planetary gear set off of here we're going to take our thrust bearing and set that to the side for a second we're going to grab each of these planetary gears and we're going to try to wiggle it like this if the needle bearings are good it will not wiggle side to side if it does wiggle side to side you'll need a new planetary gear set see these are all pretty solid there is a little bit of play end to end but as long as it's less than 25 thousandths you're good these are between 16 and 18 thousands you can check it with the feeler gauge so once you have inspected all of those the next thing we will inspect is your thrust bearing you want to make sure that it spins easily and this one does and once again the inside lip will be sitting on there just like that all right now there's another thrust bearing inside of here to check this one we'll need this gear set it in here push down and spin it should spin easily if it hangs up anywhere you will need a new thrust bearing in there did that in our transmission fluid now it's pre-lubed now remember that our lip sits on here so we're going to turn it upside down and set it down inside of here we'll use our little disposable shot glass here a little bit of fluid actually a bunch of fluid and we'll hold it over our hummus container and we'll just spill this on thrust bearing inside of there now that that's soaked in fluid we'll move it around a little bit make sure all that transmission fluid has lubricated the inside of that bearing now we will set this inside of the housing there we go you may need to use a large screwdriver to hold the previous piece stationary until you can turn this and get the gears to slide in correctly now once again this should spin freely so now we're ready for the low reverse frictions and steels so let's see let's get all these off of here all right so they come off this way so the one on top of this stack which was the last one to come out will be the first one to go in see this plate here is actually a little bit wavy you may or may not be able to tell that but it goes in and out so this is the only one that we need see that on this tab it has a little groove in it if you're standing by the valve body side of the transmission it'll be facing down and right and that notch needs to be facing to your left just like that now we're ready for our new frictions and steelers they are these large ones here see that they're larger than any of the other ones and these off to the side these are our steels also the largest out of the kit now we never put these in dry but you definitely want to make sure these are well lubricated so if you do them all at once make sure that in between the frictions it gets lubricated as well so now take our first new steel and we'll orient it the same way with this tab with the notch in it facing towards the bottom and the notch facing to your left and you are once again standing at the valve body side of the transmission now we will alternate between frictions and steels there are five of each just remember with each steel that tab needs to face towards you and the notch to the left all right so the last thing that you add should be a friction plate there we go now when you turn this you should notice some resistance so now we're going to grab our low roller housing and our snap ring and bring them over to the workbench so with this facing you this should rotate counterclockwise but it should not go in the other direction because there is a one-way clutch inside of there a little bit of noise is normal ours is well lubricated press this out and from here we can inspect all of these little accordion springs make sure that they're all in place and there's none of them that are messed up all of our bearings are in place if you need to replace the one-way clutch you simply take out a snap ring here and you can remove it ours is in good shape so we're not going to do that inspect this and make sure that our surfaces are nice and smooth no scoring here we can set this in and rotate it counterclockwise like such once again we'll check to make sure that we'll push it out a little bit make sure that we can go counter-clockwise but not clockwise our one-way clutch is doing its job so now we're going to install the case silencer just like this going to match up this large smooth area here with the smooth section on the case housing there i'm going to push this up just a little bit so that we're flush on the bottom and we're going to set this in i'm going to set it on top of the case silencer so you can push it down like that next we'll push this bearing down until it locks in and now we'll put our lock ring in we'll get started right here all right so now that we have that together we're going to check for a little bit of end play in the clutch pack right here you should be able to move this a little bit if it moves more than an eighth of an inch uh you may have left out a clutch it should only move just a little bit like that now if it's just completely in there tight and packed you may have too many clutches in there another thing we're going to do is make sure that our low reverse piston engages with 30 to 40 psi we'll put this right here in this hole all right now we're ready for the next step so now we're going to inspect our sun gear and we look for wear on any of these splines if it is worn you need to replace it also check for wear on these splines here this bushing in here is always a good idea to replace because it is the one that sees the most wear in a 4l60 so we will show you how to replace that in a minute next we have the sun shell and our bushing with four tabs make sure that all four tabs are there and this is not cracked our sun shell looks to be in good shape these fail a lot here this will get stripped out and sometimes this whole section will actually break off so if it has not been replaced before it's always a good idea to replace it and we have a new one that we will replace this with next we have our planetary gears this housing here has thrust bearing in here that we need to check for play we'll also lubricate this before we put it all back together check all these splines in here make sure they are in good shape we also have a thrust washer here that we will take off lubricate make sure that it spins freely then also check your bushings inside of here that all looks pretty good so now we will look at this once again we'll try to turn this side to side check for needle play if you have any play at all it's a good idea to go ahead and replace that we'll check the splines in here make sure they're in good shape and this one is all good so we'll take our output shaft put this housing on here like such and then check for play this has just a tiny amount but actually it's more up here so i would say that bushing is good if you have more play there you'll want to go ahead and replace that bushing the next area that we need to look at is this shaft right here if this has a groove in it at all you need to replace it because that is what this bushing rides on so now that this is on there we can see that we do have some play so we're going to replace this bushing so now we're just going to use a flathead screwdriver and we're going to beat this bushing out of here all right so our new bushing has part number it's a clevite02499 so just make sure to compare it with your old bushing make sure that it has the same diameter same thickness same width this one does so i'm going to a little bit of transmission grease on the outside to help with the driving process and a little bit on the inside so this side has a larger opening that's where it's getting pressed in at you can also see that there is a lip right in here we're going to press all the way down to that we'll be using a one and a quarter inch socket all right so our inch and a quarter was too big so now we're using a 30 millimeter which seems to have the same diameter there it is we are bottomed out all right so now we are ready for the sun gear which inspect make sure all these splines are in good shape inspect and make sure that your bearing on the inside is in good shape effect and make sure that the bushing on the inside is in good shape as well i have this four tabbed washer here which we will go ahead and place tabs down inside of there like such next we will inspect our sun gear or our sun shell make sure that these splines are not stripped out and make sure that this collar is not broken off here it's common problems on these and so we actually have a new one that we're going to install grab our brand new sun shell even though it's new we will still inspect all the gears all the teeth and you can see that this has been heat treated to keep it collar from breaking off next we have our reaction shaft we'll make sure that this surface here is nice and smooth if it's gouged or worn down and has a step on it you're going to need to replace this which you can do by removing this snap ring and then taking this out putting it new one in and a new snap ring now we will check this bushing in here for play by setting it on here and doing like such we're going to show you how to replace that bushing next you have a bushing in here that you need to check for play make sure that it's not worn out or gouged up you can check that for play by sliding it on your output shaft and then check it for play this one's pretty tight if you have a lot of play go ahead and replace that too now we have a thrust bearing here make sure that that moves easily we'll go ahead and lubricate it and place it back in place flip this over and we'll find that there's another one here go ahead and lubricate it and we'll take some of our transmission lube put it on here and the idea is that that will hold this in place when we go to install it so now we'll take our planetary gear make sure that this has no gouges in it we'll make sure that we don't have any side to side play and you can also check this vertical play it needs to be less than 25 thousandths if it fails that test go ahead and replace this next we'll inspect this bushing in here that this shaft rides on this one looks to be in good shape so we'll leave it there now we'll go ahead and lube up this area here and put our thrust washer in place hopefully it won't fall off good now we'll start assembling this section we'll start with our sun gear with these diagonally placed down first next we'll take our sun shell and we'll set that in there we go make sure that spins take our reaction shaft make sure that your thrust bearing is on there if you have an older model you may have a thrust washer instead or a thrust bushing uh make sure that that is in place there we go this should still spin freely next we'll take our planetary gear set with its own thrust bearing on there make sure that it does not fall off and set that in there we go that's our one-way clutch doing its job and this should still spin freely along with that all right for this next section you're going to want to put on some safety glasses there we go now we're going to carefully lay the transmission over making sure not to let planetary gear slip out of place there we go now we're going to give our output shaft a little bath we want to get all these journals well lubricated there we go this is a really good time to go ahead and make sure that all of these areas where bushings ride on are nice and smooth if they're not you're going to need a new output shaft now that we're good and lubed up i'll take one hand and i'm going to hold the planetary gears there and i'm going to slide the output shaft in from the back wiggle it around as you go through each section there you go so now we're going to install our snap ring it goes back here behind this little gear all right the snap ring is on all right so now we're ready to start disassembling this drum assembly we're going to take this thrust washer if it's still on here and set it on the pump it has two holes that those tabs fit into we're going to take this outer shell off and set it to the side all right now we're ready to work on this drum assembly first we're going to take off this thrust bearing and then we're going to need a small screwdriver to remove this spacer now we'll set this shaft down in between our blocks on our workspace next we will release this snap ring set it over here as well now we're ready to remove the 3 4 clutch assembly on the snap ring which is how we found them so these are release springs there should be five of them uh if they stayed in collect them up make sure you have all five set them over here with your clutches and this is actually the problem that we've come to solve on this transmission on joe's transmission see all these these clutch uh frictions and plates are all burnt up and black looking this is why joe does not have third or fourth gear and i'm willing to bet that a little deeper down the 3-4 piston is also probably worn out all right now we're going to remove the forward clutches we're going to take out this snap ring here sheesh make sure that this thrust washer the stars bearing is inside of here and then we have our spacer plate or end plate now we have this seal set that over here as well so we have our overrun clutches here which is just two steals and frictions and that spacer so the spacer will go on here this will be all of our other frictions and steels for the forward clutches and a spacer on the front and our forward sprag is right in the middle so now we're going to take our 3 4 clutch snap ring and reinstall it we're going to build a tool that will fit right on the inside of this lip to press down on this spring cage so that we can remove this clip here all right so we're going to adjust our tool to where we can push instead of pull down on this spring cage we have marked the center of this bar i'm going to drill a hole to fit our bolt flip this over and clean that up a little bit [Music] all right for my next portion this is the piece i'm gonna make this piece is gonna ride and push down the spring cage and take it on out so we have a c clamp right there that we're going to take out now we have our snap ring out go ahead and pull out our spring cage we're going to remove the 3 4 clutch snap ring put that back over here on the bottom where it goes get the rest of this out try to make this as sturdy as possible turn it upside down and slam it there we have it take this whole assembly flip it upside down now there is a o-ring down in here you can pinch together with your fingers and pull out of here and we'll set that over there all right that's how you take apart the drum we're going to clean the input shaft and the input housing and then we're going to inspect the input housing for any cracks in here any cracks in this shell and then we're going to inspect all of these journals make sure that they are nice and smooth we're going to inspect all these journals here and these in here those we're going to make sure that these four teflon rings are not stuck they should rotate freely if you have any wear on your input shaft on any of these journals you'll need to replace it also if you have any cracks on your input housing you will need to replace it so now that we know that our input shaft and our input housing is in good shape we'll move on we will remove our 3 4 piston take that off of there take this little spring cage out and one of the main failure points of the 4l60e is the three four clutch packs will get burnt up as we can see here and that will lead to not having third and fourth gear this 3-4 piston is usually the main culprit this should fit very snugly on here see this one comes on and off rather easily and it has clay side to side like such so this inner seal has dried and shrunk and most likely our outer seal has done the same so we'll be replacing that piston we also have a forward and overrun piston we're going to replace all three so now we're going to need our input drum sub kit we're going to need this skinny o-ring out of here i have dipped this o-ring in some transmission fluid we're going to drop it on here and press it down into place be very careful with this o-ring don't break it there we go it's in place next we're going to take our transmission lubricant and we're going to cover the inside of this bore here all right now that that is lubricated we're going to apply some lube down here this is where the 3-4 piston sits this will help us get all of our new pistons in there without damaging the rubber seals on them first we'll take our 3-4 piston we'll take our new 3-4 piston we'll set it on the forward housing make sure it is nice and tight as it is here does not rotate super easily and we can see that it is much more snug than the one that we took off i'm happy with that we'll go ahead and grease up this inner rubber seal here and the outer we'll just set this down in the bottom of this housing make sure that your check ball there is in place i think that's all the way in we will take our 3 4 apply ring set it like such inspect the spring cage for the three four piston make sure that all the springs are intact none are missing none are broken if any are missing or broken replace it set that in there then we'll take our forward piston apply some lubrication to the outside ring and the inside ring and now we will fit it into the back of the board housing before we do that go ahead and inspect this surface here should be nice and clean and free from any pitting and also inspect this surface here apply a little bit of lubrication in these locations and now we will work on setting this into there we'll have to be very careful and a small feeler gauge can be very useful in getting that to sit correct without tearing the rubber seal take your time with this no rush you do not want to damage this seal now that is assembled all right so now the last thing we're going to do before we reassemble our forward housing is there is a check ball in there make sure that it's in there and that it moves freely when it's upside down that ball will come down and then when you let it off that way it will become recessed if that check ball is not there or does not move freely you will need to replace your forward housing next set our forward housing down in here we'll make sure that these large tabs match up with these large tabs grab these tabs and we're going to lower all of this into the housing make sure that these tabs line up with these large indentions once it's in there we'll press this evenly down until it clicks like that it should be maybe an eighth of an inch below this shoulder if it does not sit in there correctly pull it back out and try again we are ready to install our overrun piston make sure that that check ball is in there if it's not you'll need to replace it but this is a brand new unit so you shouldn't have any problems with it and here it moves freely on the outside and on the inside then we're going to set it straight down in here press it down it should almost be flush on the outside you can see that it comes up maybe a sixteenth of an inch higher than the forward piston we'll grab our spring cage make sure that all the springs are straight not broken none are missing if it has any defects go ahead and replace it we'll install it with these holes facing up now we'll get our snap ring in place and we'll install our tool so now we'll go ahead and put in our first snap ring so now we're ready for our overrun frictions and steel plates those are going to be these two they are the smallest diameter of all the friction plates and then these two steels which once again they are the smallest diameter and there's only two of each we're going to go ahead and pre-soak these the transmission fluid we're going to install our first steel plate these two tabs are going to go in between these two slots all the way around then we're going to install the friction plate and then our second steel and our second friction now out of our input drum sub kit we need this seal we'll take some lubricant which once again this is transmission lube don't use anything else and we'll rub that on the inside of this seal then we'll set this seal in place we'll take our forward sprag and we'll remove the thrust bearing dip it in our transmission fluid to get it lubricated make sure that it spins easily and the inside lip is going to face down notice that these tabs should fit around this bore like that it won't fall off so now we're ready to inspect the forward sprag turn it over and remove this snap ring now take note of how you take this apart so that you do not get the one-way clutch reversed all right so you may have thrust bearings in our case we have thrust bushings or thrust washers here's our one-way clutch or sprag make sure that there's no parts that are loose looks good go ahead and put this back together check these for wear you can see that this one is slightly worn it has a little groove on it it's good to replace those should look like this one with no lip we'll look inside of here inside of this gear you have two bushings make sure that they're not excessively worn pitted or scored go ahead and mesh this gear in and check it for side to side up and down play see this one's nice and tight if you have a lot of play here you want to go ahead and press out those bushings so to press out these bushings you want to set a couple of two by fours and use a large socket to knock out this intersection and then you can drive out and press in your new bushings and you'll set this back down and tap it in let's go ahead and reassemble this dump this in some transmission fluid get it nice and lubricated back on there and we'll take the nice flat side of this gear so now when you look at it if you have the sprag installed correctly this should only rotate clockwise this one only rotates counterclockwise so we have the sprag installed upside down so we'll have to take it out flip it over now we'll test the rotation again you can see that it is spinning in the clockwise direction and it does not spin counterclockwise it locks up so this has been reassembled correctly go ahead and pop in our snap ring our snap ring is seated in there all right now we'll get our friction plates prepared set our sprag in spin that around a few times to make sure it's seated on both of the friction rings there we go so now we're ready to install our forward frictions and steels these frictions are the next smallest in diameter these are the correct frictions and then these steels not only are they the next smallest in diameter after the forward clutches but you can see that they have this groove tab this valley tab we'll call it and there are five of each so now we're going to go ahead and pre-lubricate the first thing that we'll do is we'll take the last out which will be the first in it's a thick apply plate all right so these tabs that are short and wide will end up sitting on these tabs there and there and there there and there so when installed look like this next we'll grab our wavy steel now we use our valley tab and line it up with these big tabs here next we'll grab our first new steel and set it in once again our valley tab will line up with this big slot then we'll alternate with a friction flip this stack over and we see that we have this last plate it's a nice thick plate and it has a shoulder here the shoulder will be facing up out of the housing again line up the valley tab this large groove set it in and then we'll get our snap ring if you get these snap rings mixed up it's good to note that it is a slightly smaller diameter so go ahead and set this down in there make sure that it's in all the way not missing any of these tabs now we're ready to begin reassembling our three four clutch we'll need to get our apply plate and our backing plate you can see that they are very black and and this layer needs to be scrubbed off in our parts cleaner now we're ready for our three four friction plates there should be six of these and we're ready for our three four steals there should be five of these however there are six in this pack so i'm going to take one out and leave it over there we're going to go ahead and pre-soak our friction plates and some transmission fluid we can see that they're all nice and soaked now we're going to start with our cleaned up apply plate notice that it has these tabs those tabs correspond to these tabs here they will be face down and they will sit on those tabs now this clutch pack we're actually going to start and finish with a friction we'll put our first friction in and we'll grab our first steel you'll find these two small tabs in symmetrical locations around this plate so these two small tabs will fit inside of this large groove then we'll apply another friction and alternate frictions and steels making sure to line up these smaller tabs in the big grooves until we have all six friction plates and five steels installed next we'll get our spring clips you want to make sure that you have about an eighth of an inch of spring above there these springs are worn or broken or stay below even with or below that metal tab you'll need to replace them installing these you want the springs up and to the inside and then get your backing plate make sure that the surfaces are smooth i don't have any obvious wear from metal grinding and also make sure that it's nice and flat this large tab here corresponds to this large groove there next we're ready to install our snap ring if you got weak fingers you can always use a flat head screwdriver to help but not i you'll need to stack some arrangement of feeler gauges together to get to 60. uh we should have between 60 and 85 thousandths of slack between the friction plate and this backing plate and you should be able to push those in there it may be tight but if you can get 60 thousandths in there you're within the spec so these three holes in between the teflon rings correspond to the 3 4 piston the forward piston and the forward overrun piston so we will make sure that they all engage and hold air pressure for the 3 4 piston we will need to hold this hole here closed and then make sure that it holds pressure you can see that that is holding good pressure and you can see that the three four clutches are engaging now we will apply air to the center hole here that it is holding good air pressure now we'll cover the center hole and apply pressure to for the overrun clutch and we can see that it is also holding good pressure so all of our pistons are nice and tight you don't want to use more than 40 psi of air when you're doing that test now we'll grab our spacer there's a number on it that designates a thickness range set it on the input shaft then we'll grab our thrust bearing lubricate it make sure that it slides easily and does not make noise so on our thrust bearing this large outside lip is connected to the bottom and that's the side that will go down this inside lip and the connected top surface will be facing up just like so now we're ready to disassemble and rebuild the input drill the first thing that we're going to need to do is remove this c-clamp in here so you get that out real quick now we're ready to take out all the clutches set these upside down the way that we found them now this is an important thing to note this last plate is build so the inside ridge is higher than the outside ridge and when it sits back down in here we need to make sure that this outside ridge is pointed down like that flip it over and we'll set it on our stack now we're ready to compress the spring cage and remove the seaplane spring cage c-clamp you can see that there is a gap between the c clamp here and the top of this section here all right now we can remove our tool remove the snap ring remove the spring cage inspect it for damage make sure all the springs are in there make sure that they are straight and none of them are broken and we'll pull this piston out at this point we need to inspect our input drill this surface here is where the band rides and when it heats up you'll see these black marks start happening and if it heats up really bad it may have heat damage if you have thick sections of black marks to do is get a very flat item if you don't have a straight edge you could use a carpenter's square and set it across there and look for gaps sometimes it'll have a gap right in the middle where the band rides and if it's not perfectly flat as you can see here you'll need to replace it this drum is nice and square on the outside nice flat surface now we'll also inspect this bushing here it's nice and clean and free from any scoring and we'll inspect this bushing here make sure it's nice and smooth not scratched up it's time to move on to putting new seals on the piston so go ahead and get your bag labeled reverse input clutch it will have two seals in it that look like this so we'll remove the outer seal notice the orientation it's sort of an l shape and it's facing down go ahead and put on the new seal we'll take the seal out of the inside once again make note of the orientation one side has a groove in it make sure when you put the new seal in it's facing the same way in this orientation the groove is facing up towards me our new seals are installed now we'll take our transmission lubricant and we'll apply to both of the sealing surfaces here we'll also apply some to this inner shaft and to the outside bore where that seal is going to be resting now that's all lubed up and ready to go we'll begin inserting our piston take your time with this use a feeler gauge to help set the seal now that that piston is seated in the bottom we can go ahead and reinstall our spring cage now reinstall your snap ring now we can remove our spring cage compressor as you can see you do not need to compress the spring cage very much maybe an eighth of an inch just to allow the c-clamp to come out of there now we're ready for our reverse clutches so we have our reverse frictions and our reverse steels now we'll go ahead and pre-soak our clutches now we'll take this build in plate with this outer lip facing down you'll notice that the inside lip is raised and the outside lip is lowered so this outside lip will have facing down then we'll place in our first steel followed by friction alternate until they are all placed you should end with a friction you will take this final thick plate and see this bevel here this bevel will face up out of the drum now we're ready to place our snap ring in there we go now you should have between 40 and 75 thousandths of play between the snap ring and the top plate more than 40 but less than 75 we are done with this part and now we're ready to work on the pump all right now we're ready to start working on the pump if you still have any gasket material go ahead and peel that off now and clean this surface up once you have that done go ahead and remove this thrust washer set it off to the side flip the pump over remove this seal retainer it's just got four tabs pull up on those that'll pop off now we're going to remove this o-ring all right set that over there now we'll set it these bolts facing up you'll need a 13 millimeter go ahead and take these bolts out set these bolts aside you don't have to put them far all right so this part here is the cover we'll set that off to the side and we'll work on this section here this is called the body as you see i've already messed up the rotor which that's okay all right so we'll take out this ring set it to the side take out the stator and collect all the veins take the other guide ring out of the bottom and set it over here all right now we're going to pry on this steel intersection here and pry this spring out don't pry on the aluminum aluminum is very soft you don't want to mess that up or gouge it there we have our spring assembly set that off to the side now we will remove this pin if you use a tool to grab it make sure to put a rag or a paper towel in between here so that way you don't damage the surface of the pin that is our pump slide pin now we will pull out the pump slide remove this little black piece if it has stayed in there this is the pump slide seal support this little orange piece is the pump slide seal now we're going to remove this steel ring and flip over the pump slide if there's no o-ring in here the o-ring is in this groove if the o-ring stayed in here go ahead and set it back in that groove and set this steel ring on it we're going to inspect this bushing in here make sure that it's in good shape there's one last thing to remove from this pump housing before we drive the bushing out it's a little spring in here usually it'll fall out set that over here by the pin all right so now we're going to carefully remove this seal so we'll come underneath the lip make sure to brace your pump housing against some wood or another softish material like that because you don't want to damage any of the aluminum on the housing so we'll wedge this screwdriver right under that lip and we'll lightly tap it all right now that that has been deformed two two by fours get a little more lift flip it over we're going to try to tap it out now we can access this bushing we'll go ahead and beat it out that's how you remove the bushing alright so now we're going to go ahead and install the new bushing i have this 30 millimeter impact socket that fits pretty well on here um honestly i would like a socket a little bit bigger but this is the largest one that i have and we'll just lightly tap it in with a hammer so now that we have our bushing drove all the way in sometimes this will have a lip just drive it to the lip this one i drove it all the way flush with the outside here what we'll do is we'll go ahead and we'll set this on the stub out on the torque converter so this bushing is actually very tight so far so i'm going to tap it on using a wood block to protect the pump housing now once the stub out has come up through you should be able to grab this and wiggle it around without moving the torque converter you see that's not the case here our bushing is much too tight so if you don't have a handy block like this you can just use a piece of wood and hammer around and we'll keep doing this until this bushing gets loose see this is getting much better now this is spinning now without too much resistance i'm going to tap it a little bit more there we go it should spin nice and easy like that all right i'm happy with that now all right so before i put this seal in i'm going to take this to the parts cleaner and clean it up now is also a good time to check your housing look for any stress fractures or cracks in here make sure that this is in good shape and it's still serviceable all right so now our pump cover is nice and clean we're going to set it on a nice soft surface like these two by fours have a couple paper towels down just to keep it clean and we're going to go ahead and tap on our new seal most of these kits will come with two seals as you see here a bigger one and a smaller one smaller one is obviously too small so use the bigger one we'll take a nice flat thing like this two by four set it across there and we'll use it to beat this seal in evenly now you can see that the seal is seated all the way around no gaps this is ready to go all right so now we're ready to reassemble the slide we want to make sure that this surface in here is nice and smooth it's not warped this way and it's not gouged this way so i need a little bit of transmission fluid go ahead and lube up this area you can go ahead and lube this bushing a little bit if you want to now we'll take our slide make sure it's nice and smooth on the bottom and on the top no cracks we'll go ahead and remove our slide ring and the o-ring underneath now you're going to need to get your servo and pump sub kit and extract the correct o-ring go ahead and dip that in some transmission fluid and set it in the slot now we take our slide ring dip it as well and set it in the slot now we'll hold it together and set it back in the pump housing now we'll go back in our kit get our small rubber support make sure to get the more oblong piece with the flat sides i didn't realize there was a second one in this kit all right so we'll take our support and our new seal put them together and set them in this groove now let's get our slide pin ready and our little spring and line up these holes over here drop the spring in and then drop your slide pin in now this should move just like so maintaining a nice and tight seal right here all right now that we have verified this is working correctly the seal is maintaining a good tight seal through the full range of motion we're ready to install the two springs so get your feeler gauges find the thickest one that you have mine is a .25 make sure that you have both springs both springs together like this we'll set this end in first and we'll use our feeler gauge to guide in the other side make sure to push that spring all the way down feel the resistance on this now that that's complete get one of your metal rings here this is a vein guide dip it in some transmission fluid and set it in then make sure that you have this bushing in here um if it has come out align it back up and put it back in make sure that it's not broken also make sure that everything's there make sure that these surfaces are smooth then we'll take this whole thing dip it in our fluid and the plastic bushing side will face down now we have 13 veins now when you set these veins in you may notice that there's a long side and a short side the long side is vertical so this will be these blocks when you set them in will be tall not wide alright now that i have six in go ahead and dip the other guide set it in place and install the rest of the vanes now you may need to rotate it around to get some of these to seat just rotate it a few times they should all seat just fine let's go ahead and pour a little more transmission fluid on all this make sure it's all well lubricated rotate it around a few more times all right now everything is well seated there shouldn't be any binding this should go very smoothly if something's binding up you may want to take this apart and start it back over and there should not be any play between the the ends of the veins they should all be nice and snug touching the outside perimeter as it goes around all right that pretty much wraps up the pump housing all right so now we're going to disassemble the pump cover first we're going to remove this filter simply grab it with some needle nose pliers and twist it out next there is a pressure relief right here held in with a pin push that out and we'll remove this the spring will try to escape so hold your finger over the hole now there's also a ball in there set these aside so now we're going to remove the converter clutch valve right here you'll need some snap ring pliers now carefully remove the snap ring and the valve stop plate the valve stop plate and we'll remove the valve and the springs make sure that both springs are still together set this off to the side for now so now we're ready to remove the regulator valve which is in here we have another snap ring inside of there we will remove that first don't lose that have a real bad day if you lose this guy pull our boost valve out first there we go make sure to keep all this together once again we have two springs here make sure you keep those together they don't want to come out you can use a little pick right in here give it a boost there we go keep these parts together in the order that you disassembled them to make reassembly a little bit easier now we're ready to replace the filter seal so we're going to have to beat that out of there all right so the best way to get the filter seal out is dun dun dun you guessed it hammer and screwdriver a little barbaric but it works just crumple it in a little bit rotate it around and pop it out scratched up the board just a little bit doing that but it'll be okay all right well i'm gonna put this thing through the parts cleaner once again if you don't have a parts cleaner you can still use a mineral spirits paint thinner to get this nice and cleaned up also let's go ahead and inspect make sure that there's no stress fractures or cracks anywhere in this cover uh everything looks pretty good on this one i'll go ahead and run it through the parts cleaner now that the pump cover is nice and clean let's do some inspections and make sure that these journals here nice and smooth they're not warped make sure that these two ceiling rings spin easily and are not broken check your bushing on the inside here make sure that it is not gouged and scratched check your surface through here make sure that it is a nice smooth bore as well check to see that this area is smooth doesn't have any steps on it make sure that your splines are not stripped out and then check your bushing on this side as well now over here with the input drone once again we have these four seals that are nice and loose that we've checked already when we're putting this on make sure that this bushing does not catch on any of these seals because it could damage them edge here should make contact with the thrust bearing down there gently let it lower all the way down i'll lift it up just ever so slightly and check for side play if you have excessive side play you'll need to get a screwdriver crush this bushing in like we did for the filter seal remove it and then press your new bushing in flush with the surface make sure that the bevel the beveled edge is facing out and also go ahead and replace this bushing back here now that the cover is nice and clean i went ahead and cleaned up all of our components we're going to take our pressure regulator valve dip it in some transmission fluid and reinstall it in this bore here should come all the way down next we're going to take our two springs and set them in there make sure that your inner spring seats first and then your outer spring next we're ready for the booster valve this is a component that should always be replaced and will usually come in a kit compare them side by side to make sure that they are the same length depending on model and year they can be a tenth of an inch different in total length so make sure that the one that you have matches i'm going to put a little bit of trans gel on here and then we're going to dip this assembly and some transmission fluid reassemble it and set it in the bore now we're ready to install our snap ring once your snap ring is in place you can push it around like that make sure that it's in the right spot now we're ready to install the converter clutch valve start by installing the two valve springs make sure that they are together i'll drop those down in this bore first then we'll install this valve small end first dip it in some transmission fluid and drop it in there next we'll install the valve stop and the snap ring once again make sure that the snap ring is fully seated should be able to move it around a little bit with a screwdriver now we're ready to install our check ball and spring make sure that there's no debris down in that hole no trash take your nice clean check ball drop it in get your spring drop that in there get your pin get it ready you need a small socket this one's a quarter inch press down on the spring now the pin is started now we use a flathead screwdriver press down on the spring and finish setting the pin through pins all the way in spring and check baller in we're ready to go ahead and install our new filter go in this hole over here these three then on the other side we have the check ball and the filter get your screen filters take it out of the bag then get your miscellaneous sub kit it's going to be one of these larger black o-rings set it on your filter dip it in transmission fluid a little bit of transmission fluid inside the bore and gently push it in all right now we're ready to mount the pump cover to the pump body make sure that both surfaces are nice and clean there's a square hole here and that square hole is going to line up with this square hole here i'm just going to flip this over set it in like such alright so now we're going to line up some of our holes around the perimeter which you can do just by looking down through the top and we'll grab our five bolts one by one we'll dip a little bit of transmission fluid and we'll get them started by hand before we get these nice and tight we need to align the top and bottom sections of the pump so for this part if you don't have the proper tool you can make one in my case i'm just going to use a belt and a clamp now we can see that we can still rotate the pump a little bit but we can't move it side to side so we can move the pump a little bit we can rotate it but it will not move side to side separate of the pump housing so now we're just going to line up our holes now that we have all of our holes aligned we can go ahead and finger tighten all of our bolts now we will use an inch pound torque wrench to tighten these all down to 220 inch orange pound torque wrench that we just rented happens to be broken so we converted to foot-pounds which is about 18.3 foot-pounds to get from inch pounds foot-pounds you just take your inch pounds and divide it by 12. now that our pump bolts are torqued down we can go ahead and release our alignment tool all right so these splines will set down into the torque converter stub far enough to engage once your pump is sat down all the way on the torque converter like so listen to that here you can hear the pump working in there as you spin it now what we're looking for here is to make sure that the pump spins easily on the torque converter in this case it does if in your case it does not spin easily you're going to want to take this back apart and figure out what is binding up also check for side to side play should not be excessive so let's take this back off here now let's locate our filter inlet which is right here this is where we remove the filter seal all right so you want your filter inlet right here facing at your six o'clock position we'll grab our ring here and it has this tab we want to place this on at the five o'clock position just like that all right now we'll flip the pump over get your little thrust washer here check it and make sure that it doesn't have any damage it's not broken you get a little bit of trans gel put on these two knobs coming out and that will just help this stay in place while we're moving it around and then those will correspond to these holes on either side of the pump all right so now we're going to expand our rings a little bit that way they have a nice compression fitting when we put everything back together so we'll press this with our fingers to one side and i'll take a small small pick i'll just get right behind there expand it out just a little bit i'll do this with all four of them squish them back around with our fingers a little bump out of there these rings are constantly compressed when everything is completely assembled so by decompressing them spanning them a little bit they will have a better seal under compression now we'll do the same thing for these rings this will go this away carefully wiggle it over there we go see how we have minimal side play and this should spin easily check and make sure that these rings are still intact and they are so that's good once these guys turn check side play make sure that it spins easily and then yank it up make sure that your rings are still intact which they are and we are ready to continue all right so now we're ready to assemble our front assembly we will take our input housing and we're going to set our reverse input drum on top notice that you have four frictions go ahead and line up all the tabs somewhat on your four friction plates those tabs are going to have to fully seat in these grooves so we have our thrust bearing here this seal or this lip is going to rest all the way on there when this is fully engaged so with a little bit of downward pressure you can see that the thrust bearing is actually moving i lift up just a little bit it no longer moves i set it down it moves that's how you know this is fully engaged now we'll take our pump inside with our ceiling rings we'll be going down onto the housing we are fully seated you can see that there's a very small gap there only so let's go ahead and get our seven pump housing bolts our band anchor and our new band so we're ready to go this will take a 13 millimeter socket now we're ready for our forward assembly first we're going to take the pump back off now these uh ceiling rings have compressed for about 15 minutes make sure that this is still seated now we'll take our forward assembly minus the pump and we'll set it in the transmission all right so you just keep on going until it doesn't drop anymore your reverse input drum should be lower than the level of the pump mounting surface now we're ready to install the band let's go ahead and get it well lubricated now go ahead and set our band in here all right so yeah we gotta line up the hole in the band with the hole here right there and we can set our band pin right in there clean up our pump mounting surface take our transmission lube lubricate this entire area where the pump is going to mount now we need our pump mounting gasket and our pump to case seal let's go ahead and set our pump mounting gasket in place all right there we go now let's go ahead and mount our pump seal set this in place with the yellow facing out make sure that your thrust washer is still in place and find your filter inlet your filter inlet facing towards the valve body area all right so go ahead and get the rest of the o-rings and components out of your miscellaneous sub kit let's go through them here sort them by size you need to locate the seven small o-rings these o-rings are going to be used to replace the o-rings on your pump housing bolts you will use a pick get these out then put your new ones on repeat that for all seven bolts now that we have all seven bolts with new o-rings on them we will give them a quick bath then we'll start with two bolts one on each side all right now we will tighten them half a turn at a time in a star-shaped pattern all right now that our pump has mounted all the way down we had a slight issue where one side of the pump was getting recessed farther than the other side so i ended up tightening these three bolts in sequence a little more until it leveled out but now they're all nice and snug we're going to go ahead and tighten this up to 220 inch pounds if you don't have an inch pound wrench that's about 18.3 foot-pounds so my assistant here is going to hold the transmission case while i'll tighten this up if you're working by yourself you may want to lay this down on a flat surface all right so we should have between 15 and 35 thousandths of in play we can measure that by attaching our vice grips there and then pulling out on the shaft you can see the gap there we have like slightly more than eighteen thousandths but less than twenty thousands so we are within our fifteen to thirty five thousands range and the gap is closed so install your new o-ring on the input shaft and find that in your miscellaneous sub-kit all right now we are ready to install the filter seal we'll be using a three-quarter inch socket and a hammer now we're going to remove this seal this is where the linkage comes out now we'll come over here and get our new seal out of our miscellaneous sub kit we'll need a 13 millimeter or half inch socket and a hammer all right that's set now we're going to reassemble the linkage assembly in this area so now get your bag with the selector shaft and all of the accessories the detent rod and the lever this bracket our two bolts nut and spacer so we'll start with this piece here the armature now we're going to take our armature and slip it slightly into this slot we'll take our detent rod make sure everything's still connected like this so the armature is going to fit into this slot right here set this in place and we'll need our nut which we will tighten just hand tight for now so now we're going to push this in and attach our spacer hold this and tighten the nut with a 15 millimeter wrench we're going to hold this back and we're going to rotate this shaft over here the output shaft there we go now we're going to rotate this assembly back insert the rod through the bracket hold the parking pawl to the side and now set in our two 13 millimeter bolts all right so now we're going to torque these two bolts down to 250 inch pounds or 20.8 foot-pounds so now we'll check to make sure that our parking pile is working correctly i will simulate the vehicle rolling by turning the output shaft and then we'll put this selector to park no longer turn when i release the selector we're able to turn again and that is how your parking paul works check to make sure that it is operational before you proceed get your accumulator piston check this shaft for side play it should be barely perceptible if it if it wiggles around in the bore a lot you'll need to replace it this one is good now we'll remove the d-ring and then get your accumulator sub-kit this kit has two large and one small d-ring use one of the large ones go ahead and dip all this in some fresh transmission fluid and put the new d-ring in lubricate the pin and the inside of the bore set the pin and then take your piston and push it down to the bottom of the bore and set your spring in there all right now we're ready to reinstall our wiring harness we're going to replace this o-ring on the connector be using this new and improved u-ring it comes in the overhaul kit all right we're going to take some transmission fluid and go ahead and lubricate the new u-ring and also lubricate the bore that the connector goes in we'll set in the connector sometimes it makes a really satisfying click not so much on this one we'll push it back up and make sure that the tabs are holding there we go now that our connector is in we'll put a check ball right here now we're ready for the separator plate and gaskets locate our separator plate you can see that the remainder of our gaskets are kind of cooked to it so we're going to go ahead and clean that up and then we're going to have to clean up the valve body as well once you get all the old gasket material off of here you may want to run this through some mineral spirits or some paint thinner and scrub it a little bit with a soft brush and then you're also going to need to take out these two filters so you flip it over and it has prongs on it you just push those prongs in and pull the filters out so now before we install the separator plate we will look at the spots where the check balls go you can see over time the check ball hammers in and out and has distorted this hole and made a crater there's another one here another one over here this one over here those are the four that are obviously distorted and you can tell pretty easily so we got one two three four five now there's two more check balls in here but those there are no other obvious craters so when we flip it over we can see that this one here is the worst one and it is even raised up off of the plate oh yeah you can definitely see that yeah we're going to repair this plate and then use it actually there's another one over here but it's not bad so to repair the plate we'll just use the anvil on our vise and a flat hammer and just gently tap it back down you can see the improvement already it's nice and flat on this side and then we'll do the same thing for this side so that's how you repair a damaged hole we're going to go ahead and do that for the rest of them now all right so now we're ready to put in our filters flip this over our first filter would go in this hole here directly across from the accumulator area our second filter will go in this large opening over here when you set this into the transmission these filters will be facing down into the case now we're ready for our separator plate gaskets these gaskets here are for a 1993 to 1999 4l60 you can see that they have one letter cut into them this is v for valve body side and this one is c for case size our transmission is for a 2003 model so for the 2000 to 2004 models the gasket will have two letters engraved vb for valve body and a marker hole here and ca for case side also with the marker hole here first we will need our case side gasket make sure that your case is nice and clean and also nice and dry that way we have a good sealing surface to work with we'll set our case side gasket down first and then we'll need our separator plate filters down the spring is going to apply a little bit upward pressure over here now we're ready for the valve body side gasket line that up so out of our valve body bolts we'll just need any two bolts to work now we will use this hole here and this hole here between these two check balls to align our plate and our gaskets now we'll need our stiffener plate and our three short eight millimeter bolts the stiffener plate will sit right over here above vb or v if you have an older model we'll start these three bolts by hand now we're ready to disassemble our accumulator housing we're going to clean this up and these check your springs make sure that neither of them are broken this old plastic piston is trash these have a high failure rate this plastic will crack and break your kit should come with a new aluminum piston so let's clean this up real quick all right now that our parts are nice and clean we go ahead and dip this new piston and some transmission fluid and also lubricate the bore of the accumulator now we can set both of our springs in and we can set our piston in we'll be sure to wipe the excess fluid off the face of this keep our uh mating surface nice and clean now we'll take and set the accumulator on the separator plate gasket now we'll get the three accumulator bolts the longer bolt goes in this hole and the shorter bolts go in this hole and this hole alright so now you're going to push down on the accumulator and tighten these bolts hand tight now we'll finger tighten the stiffener bolts and then using an eight millimeter socket and a torque wrench we're going to torque these to 120 inch pounds also the same as 10 foot pounds now we'll switch out to a 10 millimeter socket tighten these two 120 inch pounds or 10 foot pounds now we can take out these two bolts that we were using to align the separator plate and gaskets all right now we're ready to work on the valve body first we're going to remove the manual valve set that off to the side sometimes you may need to lift up on it and give it a pat to get it dislodged or use a screwdriver in this area to pry it out next we'll flip it over and remove these two eight millimeter bolts holding on the manifold pressure switch assembly all right now we'll set this off to the side next we'll remove the 3 2 solenoid using a flat head screwdriver you can pry out the retaining clip this one just fell out but if it doesn't you can wiggle it side to side and pull it out go ahead and put this retaining clip back on all right now we will remove solenoid a pry the clip out this solenoid is under spring pressure let the valve come out and the spring keep these items in order and don't forget to put your clip back on solenoid next we'll remove solenoid b be sure to put the clip back on and remove the valve now there's one more valve back behind shift solenoid b we'll have to pry it out with some picks once you get it moving you should be able to get it out like this this large end was all the way recessed small end came out first so we'll set it in the lineup the way that it came out in case you were wondering this is the 2 3 shuttle valve and this is the 2 3 shift valve now we'll need an 8 millimeter socket to remove the electronic pressure control solenoid keep the bolt and the clip together remove the solenoid now we're going to remove the three eight millimeter bolts holding on the forward accumulator cover now that the torque is broken i will use a drill to remove these bolts the rest of the way while holding pressure on the cover set the accumulator cover and the accumulator spring off to the side then we'll take the low overrun spring and valve set them together we'll pull up on this rod about a half inch and walk this piston out well it never happens that easy we're going to remove the torque converter regulator valve here which is a commonly wore item on 1995 and newer 4l60s it's going to be the one all the way over to your left now we're going to pry this end cap out with a pick set it aside and remove the valve but wait there's more we'll check our other valves and make sure that they move freely now we'll come over to the next one do the same thing and there's this last one over here so those three are moving freely we're not worried about removing those and reinstalling if they did not move freely and operate under spring pressure you would need to disassemble those and figure out what is wrong with them at this point we're going to take this over to our wash station wash it with our paint thinner or mineral spirits and get this ready for reassembly all right so we're going to start reassembling this by reinstalling the torque converter regulator valve which is this guy here now in most cases if this valve body has 100 000 miles on it or more um this bore is going to be reamed out and so the torque converter regulator valve is not going to be doing its job correctly and you may get a check engine code for 1995 through 2000 model years you can use this spring that is included in the kit to replace this spring you'll simply put it in line like that so you'll start this piece in put the spring in that and put the cap now if you have a 2001 and up model 4l60 you can't do that you need to get the sonax kit and the reamer which will ream this bore out oversized and then there's an oversized torque converter regulator valve in this situation we will be putting back the stock setup start with the end piece then the spring and the valve body and then the end cap the end cap in place go ahead and clip it at this point we'll be adding some fluid to all of the valves that are still in here now that they're lubricated be sure to move them around a little bit now i'll flip this over and remove any excess fluid we're going to discard the old accumulator piston because it is made of plastic and instead we're going to use the new aluminum piston so we're going to need one of these small d-rings in the accumulator kit and dip it in transmission fluid and install it on the new aluminum piston next we're going to lubricate the bore of the accumulator and install the pin after lubricating it as well now we will insert our new piston and we'll set the spring in now we'll install the low overrun valve lubricated and then install the spring now we're ready to install the cover and three bolts for now we'll just get them snug now we're going to torque these down to 120 inch pounds or 10 foot pounds we're going to reinstall the electronic pressure control solenoid be sure to clean this with mineral spirits or paint thinner get these screens nice and clean and then blow it out with compressed air make sure this is dry before reassembly i've already cleaned this one i'm going to dip it in some fluid first then we'll set it down into this board install the retainer clip and the eight millimeter bolt now torque this down to 120 inch pounds next we're going to reinstall the 2 to 3 shift valve go ahead and lubricate it with transmission fluid and install it in the bore then we'll install the 2-3 shuttle valve install it in the bore get your new shift valves make sure it has the o-ring installed lubricate it get your clip off of the old shift valve and now install it reinstall the clip and we'll do the same thing for the other solenoid install your spring make sure your valve is inside of the spring get your clip lubricate your o-ring and install everything back together put your clip back in and your shift solenoids are now in place now we're ready for our new manifold pressure switch install it here with these two eight millimeter bolts just get these hand tight for now now we're ready to reinstall the three to two control valve and spring a lot of times this spring is actually broken and there's a new one included in the kit so we will use the new spring lubricate the control valve install the spring and set them in the bore make sure that it moves back and forth freely inside the bore remove the clip from the three to two solenoid remove the two old o-rings now we will clean this solenoid with mineral spirits or paint thinner make sure that the screen is nice and clean once you've cleaned it blow it out with some compressed air and find the two new o-rings in the miscellaneous sub-kit and install them go ahead and dip your new o-ring transmission fluid and install it on the 3-2 solenoid dip your small one in install it on your three to two solenoid now they are ready to be installed push it in and install your clip once installed your three to two solenoid should be able to swivel freely point it in that direction now let's lubricate and install the manual valve so this end goes in first now be gentle and take your time wiggle it in do not force it and leave this end piece sticking out now we'll need to get our manual valve link out of our parts and install it right inside of this lever now we're ready for the seven remaining check balls you can identify the locations where they sit by these large open areas in the gasket so let's go ahead and place them in position so take note of where all these check balls are we have one two three four five six seven so we'll take two of the longest valve body bolts and we'll set one here and one over here and these will be our guide pins whenever we install this all right now i'll get my assistant to go ahead and thread in helps to have a second pair of hands with that and using these bolts as guide pins we're able to get this nice and square so if your manual valve does not seat you can rotate this up and set your linkage in like that and lift up on the valve body a little bit if your manual valve linkage does not look like this when you are done you will need to pick up your valve body again make sure your check balls are in the correct location and then start again by making sure that your linkage is connected and then reset the valve body so here we have arranged all of our 17 valve body bolts all these bolts on this side have 10 millimeter heads these three bolts have eight millimeter heads we're going to start with these three long bolts these two short bolts and our dipstick bracket first we'll set in our three longest bolts in these locations and then we'll set in our two shortest bolts here and here except this bolt we'll use to hold down the dipstick limit bracket now we will go ahead and hand tighten all these bolts when installing this dipstick limit bracket be sure that this bar is behind here not this way this way might cause interference when you go to put the transmission fluid pan on this is the correct orientation next we will install these three bolts with eight millimeter heads they'll go here by the shift solenoids here and here by the accumulator once again we'll hand tighten now we'll grab our last nine bolts and install them into the remaining holes now we'll hand tighten so now we're going to torque down all of the valve body bolts to 120 inch pounds which translates to 10 foot pounds we'll start with the eight millimeter bolts first and then we'll do all of the tens and we'll come back one last time and check all the eights at the end okay there we go so now we will install our detent spring and bolt this is a 13 millimeter and we'll torque this down to 200 inch pounds which translates to 16.66 foot-pounds there we have it so next you're going to need some needle nose pliers this little filter out of the filter kit and these two small 10 millimeter bolts now we'll move our wiring harness over here and we're going to extract the filter out of the torque converter clutch solenoid use your needle nose pliers to grab and twist and pull it out now we will install the new filter set it in and twist now we're going to remove this o-ring and get a new o-ring of the same size from our miscellaneous kit make sure to dip it in some transmission fluid to lubricate it and install it on the tcc solenoid now we'll set the solenoid down into this bore and press down firmly you may need to wiggle a little bit then we'll install our two 10 millimeter bolts do not drop it into that hole and now we will torque these down to 120 inch pounds which converts to 10 foot pounds so now we're going to clean the pulse width modulator solenoid i just cleaned it with mineral spirits then i blew it out with some compressed air to get it nice and clean and dry now we're going to replace the two o-rings now get two o-rings out of the miscellaneous kit and reinstall we'll dip our two o-rings and some transmission fluid and then we'll install them on the pwm solenoid next we'll take the clip off the solenoid set the solenoid in this bore and then reset the clip now we will connect all of the electrical connectors on our wiring harness there's a tab there that goes underneath now we're ready to install our new filter we will get some fluid and lubricate this section of the filter and the grommet now we will set the filter in place push down and wiggle now the filter is firmly in place now we will go ahead and clean the transmission pan there is a magnet right there that we will clean off and put back into the transmission pan and then it will be ready for reinstallation now we're ready to install our pan gasket align this notch with the notch on the casing this notch in the gasket goes to this notch on the casing now that we've cleaned our pan and reinstalled the magnet we're ready to reinstall the pan we can see that there's a notch here that will go with the same notch on the casing and the gasket make sure that none of your bolt holes are obstructed and locate your pan bolts now let's go ahead and start all of our bolts by hand if you use a drill make sure to set it to its lowest setting and do not allow it to impact you do not want to tighten these bolts with a drill but you can use it to go ahead and run all the threads through now the bolts are threaded use a 3 8 ratchet and get all of them nice and snug now use a torque wrench to tighten them all down to 120 inch pounds which correlates to 10 foot pounds now grab your servo assembly and we're going to disassemble it now we're going to remove the o-ring from the cover and also remove the o-ring from the inner housing now we're going to remove this teflon seal from the fourth apply piston and remove the two teflon seals from the second apply piston now we'll get our servo sub kit we need the blue ring to go on the servo cover and the red ring to go on the servo housing now get your red or orange o-ring and set it on the inner housing now get your ceiling ring kit and take out your teflon rings you'll want to match up one of these rings that is about the same size there we go now we're going to take this ring and roll it up that way it compresses a little bit now we'll put it on our for apply piston now we'll do the same thing for our two apply piston now we need to lubricate our four apply piston and set it back into the servo cover the side with the larger protrusion will face down next we will lubricate to apply piston and the shaft slide it into the housing make sure these tabs are facing that way all right let's reassemble the servo assembly and bring it over by the transmission at this point we need to rotate the transmission to where the servo area is facing upwards now we'll take some transmission fluid and lubricate this bore now we'll reach in here and make sure that the band is offering some resistance when you push in it should push back so now we're going to go ahead and install our servo assembly set the spring in [Music] and guide everything down apply some pressure and spin while you tap with a hammer now we'll put the snap ring in now verify that the snap ring is in very well and that is reassembled so now we're going to turn the transmission over and let it rest on the pan all right so if your transmission output shaft has this sleeve on it we need to replace the o-ring on the inside of here there's a new row ring in the master kit verify it's the same lubricate it and reinstall it perfect if your output shaft has this sleeve on it you'll need to put some bearing grease on these splines your output shaft does not have that sleeve you don't need to worry about putting this bearing grease on you don't need to worry about changing out the o-ring don't use transmission lube on here or trans gel because it is not a heavy enough grease to properly lubricate this part now we're going to remove the rear seal off of the output shaft housing next we'll go ahead and drive out this bushing [Music] now we'll take this o-ring off the bottom of the output housing and we're going to run this through our parts washer or if you don't have a parts washer just use some paint thinner mineral spirits get this clean blow it dry and then we'll be ready to put a new bushing a new seal and a new o-ring now we need to locate our new bearing from the bearing kit make sure it's the same as the old bearing and drive it in with an appropriately sized socket this one is a 30 millimeter now we can see our bushing is flush all the way around we're ready to install our new seal set it in place and use a large flat object to drive it in evenly make sure that it is sealed all the way around now flip the output housing over and get your new square cut o-ring set it on with the orange facing out make sure you don't have any sides that are flipped over and push it all the way down now we need to locate our six 15 millimeter head bolts that are going to bolt on the output housing go ahead and clean those bolts so now get a little bit of transmission fluid and lubricate this bore this is where your o-ring will sit and we'll set the output housing on with the transmission mount facing down same side as the valve body and pan now we have cleaned up our six 15 millimeter bolts we'll go ahead and hand tighten those and now we'll tighten these down to 35 foot-pounds that's 30 and that's 35. tighten your locking nut at the bottom so if you don't have a new vehicle speed sensor go ahead and clean up your old one with some mineral spirits or some paint thinner remove the old o-ring and put a new o-ring on it first we'll go ahead and dip the new o-ring and some transmission fluid use some transmission fluid to lubricate the bore and remove the eight millimeter bolt that we stored right here set it in the bore do not force it gotta massage the o-ring in and tighten down our eight millimeter bolt so now we're going to tighten up the vehicle speed sensor and torque it to 124 inch pounds or roughly 10 foot pounds now we're ready to reinstall the bell housing if you remember earlier in our removal video we broke off two of these bolts so i went to the hardware store and got four new bolts these bolts are assessed enough that you don't have to worry about the torque converter hitting the head so you're able to use a hex head bolt we can see that the hex head bolt does not protrude more than the original the threads used on these are an m10 by 1.5 and 45 millimeters long so if you need to go get these bolts those are your measurements we can see that they are identical in length and pitch and thread type now when we install these bolts do not put any sort of lubricant or thread sealer on them they don't need it so don't put it on there now let's torque them all down to 55 foot-pounds all right we're all torqued down so now we're going to replace our cooler line fittings with the new ones that came with the rebuild kit if you don't have new ones you can take these out and replace the o-rings on the inside this is going to require an 18-millimeter socket now we'll get the new ones out the bag and thread them in by hand notice that the new ones already have loctite on them a new o-ring and a new snap ring we'll just get them snug and then about eighth of a turn that's plenty don't get crazy because this is aluminum aluminum is soft and it will strip easily now we'll go ahead and reinstall our vent tube yours may be longer this one goes into a t if yours is longer you should route it down here to the corner of the pan now we can install our new dipstick bushing dip it in some fluid and press it into the bore once it is seated it is done let's remove the two 13-millimeter bolts that we stored on this side of the casing over here and gently reinstall our neutral safety switch do not force the switch off because you can damage this plastic area in here and then it will not work properly notice how this internal piece here does not move whenever i tilt the switch back and forth that means that it's functioning correctly i'm going to torque these down to 20 foot-pounds i could not find a spec for it but it seems appropriate we're going to go ahead and set our shift lever on here put it back the way that you got it off and we're going to put on our 13 millimeter bolt now we're going to install our shifter cable bracket and then we'll tighten these up with a t40 torx bit there we go this transmission is now ready to be reinstalled all right well thanks for watching guys that's how you rebuild a 4l60d transmission this is applicable in 1993 and up chevy and gmc trucks suburbans and tahoes our previous video is showing how to disassemble 4l60e transmission and our next video is going to show how to reinstall it into your vehicle so thanks for watching i hope this was useful hope you enjoyed the video please give us a thumbs up and subscribe to our channel and comment below if you have any questions so as always dude we can fix it we're about to reinstall the transmission now if we look on here we can see that there's these

Channel: Dude We Can Fix It

Views: 67,682

Rating: 4.8279572 out of 5

Keywords: dude we can fix it, fix it, diy, you can do it, 4l60, 4l60e, transmission, transmission rebuild, transmission overhaul, gm, truck, chevy, gmc, tahoe, suburban, yukon, yukon xl, silverado, chevy silverado, sierra, gmc sierra, transmission series, auto, automotive, auto repair, repair, automotive repair, fix it yourself, built not bought, how to, car, car repair, truck repair, s10, duramax, 5.3, 6.0, 4.8, alternator, performance, maintenance, serpentine belt, intake, gasket, air leak

Id: 3O0vGfiQ7EI

Length: 136min 14sec (8174 seconds)

Published: Mon Aug 10 2020