The Most In Depth 4L60E Build Video on the Internet for 700WHP

[Music] good morning everybody this is Ryan from perform and built it's been a long time since I've done a video but I figured it's been long enough I get back at it and Kendrick wanted a video with his build it is a 1995 Impala SS with LS swap it's about 650 horse and he's picked out our level 3 which is a good fit you know it's 650 and that heavy of a vehicle you know the impalas I think somewhere north of 4,000 pounds our one builder Frank actually has one and so the level two probably a little too close for comfort with that weight and you know 50 horsepower it's just not going to give you the security that's how far it was off so another thing I wanted to talk about is you know I we did a lot of videos and I actually sit there and I answer your comments and I read them and I took a lot of things to heart and I appreciate all your feedback even the trolls you know can't get rid of you guys but so we're gonna be doing Kendricks level 3 build I'm gonna be talking about I wasn't going to do a big talk video but I decided to anyway because there's a lot of things after watching some of my old ones that I never did cover and the things actually matter I'm not I'm always talking about details and details and I'm gonna go over some details I've never really talked about so not only is this video for Kendrick it's kind of for me and our YouTube to so nobody likes a youtuber with ego that makes the whole video about themselves so we'll jump right in and the first thing I like to do is get our harness out the way before I do that considering you know our level 3 gets brand new one before we actually get into everything some of them little details I'm talking about that it never did mention before is little things with the case not only should you know everything be nice and clean and flat sanded and your shift linkage seal replace and your parking pawl inspected you want to look at a couple things like the third accumulator check ball right in here right here that's extremely important to either vacuum check or air check or just replace it depends on what condition it's in but if you if that isn't working properly your 3/4 is gonna burn up almost immediately it's just gonna vent all the fluid up into the case and you'll have a burn transmission another thing you know that is really really looked over that I've been paying attention to more often than not and something I never did talk about it's important is all the chapters of bolt holes on the valve body side everybody's always talking about cross leaks and this and that the biggest way to make sure that your valve body and plate and all that even the pump is gonna sit flush and have no leaks and just be right is check all your chamfers the chamfer of the bolt hole is actually what helps torque the components down it's that space that it needs so without it your bolts just gonna run through and it's probably not gonna see so you know if you do have a bad chamfer one thing you can do is I don't know take a one of your flat punches or some sort of blade or something and and just you know make your own sham for aluminum soft it doesn't really take much either it's just a quick thing that you can do to make sure you have the best surface for the valve body that's possible another thing is flat sanding it I have talked about before you know these cores these cores are getting old and everything is built from a core I don't care what transmission company go through so some of these surfaces over time whether they be laying in the junkyard or or just bashed around or taking apart a little rough you know you want to look it you want to flats and it because there could be a high spot or any sort of warping that could occur so this must be flat the only other thing to look for is check your back of your case you know if that's cracked anywhere even if you do the build to the tee follow all the books this back there is no really real textbook symptom for it it could cause just about any symptom in the book i from low pressure to erratic shifts to anything to just a big leak so any leak is a no-go transmissions leak internally but it's not that type of leak any external leak is a bad thing other than that I've already done the bushing and the low piston which is not very if you're just rebuilding those seals typically don't go bad if you're buying a new unit you know or rebuilding your new performance unit you want to replace those seals but that's another thing that's usually looked over that most people don't cover very well so anyway low pistons and bushings in this is inspected third third accumulator check ball it's flats and the chamfers are good servo bores good that tubes good we're good to go so we'll start with our wiring harness and that's simply just to get things out of the way this is gonna be a more relaxed video I'm not going to move very fast I want to cover this thoroughly today for you guys that were whining about my coffee hammer that I've been using for four years I finally got a ball-peen to make you happy all you trolls and you know I got to give it to you it is a little easier to use so I'm always up for advice okay back to what I was saying about these units getting old a lot of misconception with this 4l60 is it's not that great of a transmission wrong it is you have to just understand it can be the same as the 80 the 80 can pull more weight and all but the junkyard 80 things the thing of the past cuz they're getting old too you know maybe back in the day when they were less than 10 years old sure you could pull one out slap it in your rod and go like five seven hundred horsepower a thousands a bit of a stretch you might get lucky but anymore these things are getting to be 20 plus years old it's not the same it's not going to work no more so with the 60 and now even with the 80 there's a lot of things to take an account to make these things last and with both of them it's really as simple as servicing it one thing I've noticed in my career is a lot of guys do not service their transmission they either don't know there's a filter in there or think it lasts forever and just refuse to change it or it's just laziness and nobody wants to just drop the pan like you should and get in there and do the service it's a little harder than an engine I know and no there's no auxiliary system that can be just dropped the pan trust me the filter the most important thing I can actually say in this video ever or any video is the 4l60 is a great transmission along with the 80 and any transmission will last if people would just change the filter instead of just changing the fluid and leaving that clogged up soppy filter in there you know the theory is and it's not even really a theory it's a fact that you are pulling through fluid through one hole and the hole is excised and it is the same as a sixty or eighty it's the same size so you're pulling fluid through this hole in the pump which is probably three quarters of an inch big now that hole is not gonna get any bigger but it can get smaller the filter restriction and this is a sealed unit so the unit isn't gonna stay clean it will stay cleaner than most things but the gears the clutches they're always shedding little bits of debris and the debris is very very fine it's not something you can actually see that's probably an Amber Alert or weather that we don't have ignore all my phone's everything's going crazy this needs to shut up okay it's shut up all right so back to what I was saying you're only fluent pulling fluid through a certain hole size which is about three quarters in the 80 the 60 it doesn't matter the higher you go up in gears especially with the 60 your third clutch pack and the fourth gear use a ton of fluid okay so that hole and that amount of fluid has to be optimum if it's restricted these components your three for your band they aren't gonna get the fluid they need to cool themselves and hold power and they will slip and burn it all comes from just changes in the filter so I mark them I know change your filter that's the best way to get your transmission the last and it boils down to when you should do it which is if you have a brand new transmission do it a thousand miles or so if you have one that you're using or passed a company's break-in just follow your owner's manual that's what we require your owner's manual if you don't have that use your experience if you're racing if you're racing you should be experienced enough to be responsible enough to know when to change it okay you know it's just taking care of your race cards that's just a it's in the Bible right there that Amber Alert mess me all up so yeah servicing your unit that's the first thing you're gonna do so now for the build this build is rated for in r-spec 900 horse in a 3600 pound vehicle or so not full weight not forth out 3600 so get that right it isn't just gonna hold 900 your 4x4 truck no we're gonna go drop that down there's factors and our builds we just give you an idea when we say it and then we go from there everything is custom everything is accounted for so all that being said we've covered servicing your unit with our unit 99% of our units use a deep om filter Oh II M tends to be the best okay and this is out of any 2005/6 GTO any heavy truck it's a big plastic deep filter and if you ever wanted to cross-reference the number its eise evan 401 OED from wit any auto parts store is gonna have it but this is the one this is what i want you guys to get it works for almost all for l 60 65 70 it doesn't matter virtually all the same and you will get a lot longer life even out of their stock 60 if you just keep up with it that was the biggest problem i had lately alright so we covered that now going into the build part of our system here is i'm gonna show you what it takes to build our unit I'm doing this for Kendrick but no if you don't take certain things to account this is not gonna hold 900 horsepower guaranteed you know what I mean you have to do hydraulics that's the biggest part of it pressures surface areas volume it's all a part of it there's things you got to take it there's no one way to just do this there's no kit you can buy no matter what anybody says that it's gonna hold this that's not true it's all about getting in there and doing those little nuance things to make it hold your power so with those things out of the way we have our line harnessing now we're going to do rear ring gear and our bearing a bearing okay I don't know if everybody can see in that little corner there but I finally got that camera fixed and you know we're setting things in we're spending things that was the rear ring gear the next thing in our level three and I'm gonna talk about this a second is our five pinion planet it's a strong planet not all 4l60 5s had them not all 70s had them it's just something that GM put in the heavier trucks and Trailblazer SSE's and stuff that actually needed it so what makes this piece special is it's not the material it's made out of even though that looks really super nice and better than the cast iron for pinion is actually powdered steel which is a weaker metal than the for opinion it's it's not it's cheaply made that's just GM where the strength comes from is how it works with four pinion she only got four opinions now heli cut gears you know when you're putting power through this thing everything the heli cuts want to shove it back everything wants to go back keep moving back that's that's what gears do that's what straight drives do that's anything that has a helical gear what these do is ease that force going back you know when you had the four pinion you only have these four pinions taking that load now you have five even though it's a weaker metal the five is stronger because it spreads the load better on the ring gear from those forces trying to go back and that's what stresses the pinions out and that's where you'll get them it's not the material is all I'm trying to say so that's why these are great and I really have not seeing one break unless it was like a rear-end failure that was really bad but even most rear-end failures they still don't break so we have this in a bearing and you know when you're doing this even if you're doing a four pinion just spin your pinions wiggle them back and forth there should be no play and it should be like ten to twenty thousand so on the bushing something like that not not too sensitive okay spin it next we'll go to our low reverse clutches nothing too critical here we use BorgWarner it's just reverse I do believe it's charged in park but that's about it and we're using five with a wave plate now if you've watched one of my transbrake videos that's where this immediately changes and we use a special setup which you can reference that anytime that's the thousand horsepower Corvette right brake okay everything set and now we throw in our spring clip or case saver whatever you choose I'm using a spring clip because another thing to check out that I when we were talking about the case is the actual case lugs if they're in good condition and they're not beat in to use your spring clip if they are a little beat in to you can use a case saver which is just a flat piece of steel that grabs more meat of the case and keeps the low roller right here from digging into it and eventually spending out typically not an issue unless the unit's real whole and abused but that is what will happen and then this is your low roller really stout piece doesn't really break unless you blow up your 10 bolt or any other rear end and also in our level three we put in here the sonnax billet race which comes with the smart shell kit if you've ever bought one and you you know you just want to check your action it should free spin and lock so that just sets in here certain way and stay clear of your little spring clip you might have to move your rear plan it around a little bit so it can get in there and you should be able to push it down it's okay to tap it down but don't you know sledgehammer it and just give it a couple taps if you can't push it in with your hand your snap ring that secures it all and that should not touch the spring a clip but be very close to it okay like so okay next thing one of our bigger strength mods here is the Sun gear and this is your technical center support for the 4l60 it comes with a stock it's like a quarter inch bushing that rods on the reaction tube surface well we have a wide bushing double bushing increase the area that because what that's doing is that's keeping a lot of the weight of a non-supported train centered so more surface the more strength that's going to have well you know those components are resting on it and riding it so that just goes in there like so another thing you want to check if you've done bushings too is you know put the components together before you actually install them because you can see here like that's a great bushing job you know if this if it's a little tight it's probably not gonna run as smooth or as well and it could potentially cause a failure if it's you know if it the bushing rips out or you know something like that okay next piece we got sonic smart shell great piece my opinion not really any stronger than the Beast the Beast is pretty pretty strong I rarely ever see him break and that's happened maybe twice in the time I've been doing this but and those are freak things but this is a great shell it is more balanced than the beast so for higher rpm applications this is the shell for you it is an add-on also on our website you can find it after you've bought your transmission it'll ask you you know anything else you want to add but for the higher rpm applications it keeps any vibration that could occur way down just because it is balanced it does have a thicker welded race which makes it probably a little bit stronger in the beast but like I said the beast doesn't really break around there anyway so we can added this shell to any level but it comes customary in the level 3 mandatory and like I said it's a great piece one thing I wanted to talk about touching things on this is the difference on RPMs between the 60 and the 80 I did a post just maybe a week ago I was messing around and I had a 60 built without the case and an 80 built without the case and I was kind of showing you guys the difference in the material the parts and the weight of the parts and just how you could see how it kind of all works together well this is what makes the 60 great these light parts they can take the higher rpms whereas the 80 parts it's a little too heavy and they can't the iron drum could fly apart and then you have the centrifugal force which is constantly making it want to do this despite being centered and everything else so the 60 with these lighter parts it's a lot easier on the bushings that keep everything centered with the 80 the heavier parts you can hold a shitload of power you can pull a ton of weight but when you start getting up in those higher rpms the heavier parts start wallowing out the bushings and the one thing with the 80 that's more important than anything else is the bushings they actually do seal it isn't just you know Lube they do seal certain drums off and it needs to be that way if you start turning higher pm's the bushings can't take it it start swallowing it out and then things leak teflon rings start wearing into the iron iron or steel components and then it fails you'll see that often with the forward drum so that's why I like pushing the 60 that 60s junk that's the thing in the past the 80 is a wonderful transmission but this thing is more meant for racing because of just simply how it's made and the type of components and metals that's used so we have our special Sonics washer here and it goes on one way they'll tell you how in the directions and that just sits on your Sun gear there now we have our reaction tube nothing too crazy about this other than the bushings billet ones not necessary choline I've seen all kinds of remakes with this and to be honest I've never had they don't really fail so there's no point in sinking money into an expensive one if you do your Sun gear right and your clearance your end play a tough piece stout piece and again spend the individual components make sure your low rollers locking where it plugs into Sun shell should spin either way now we have our front five pinion planet which much like the rear same description everything wants the thrust this spreads the load better on that ring gear and therefore it is more durable little assembly goo our bearing plug that right on top there and now a quick little tip bungee strap real handy for plugging in your shaft here's our two-wheel drive shaft for Kendricks Impala nice and shiny I may need to tap this in I may not okay some chefs they slide right up other shafts a little coaxing there we go sometimes you're you know sending the shaft through your five your front planet five or four will rise up if that happens and you can't quite get it just try grabbing the planet turning it keep jiggling your che it'll sink it always does say some slide right and some just won't and then our clip for our shaft which you'll need a pair of snap ring pliers just before that and all the bungee strap does is keep the shaft held in while I'm using both hands to secure the clip now we grab everything and give it a spin make sure it locks and spins nice and freely alright next thing is the input drum now that we have our bottom end put together as we should this is the 60s input drum it's aluminum steel shaft and this is the LS he has an LS swap in his a couple big things on the drum if you are building your own is to you know this is pretty complex piece and it pretty much is the 4l60 nearly all the clutches are in it all your gears etc etc and it takes the brunt of the the forces you know this is your input shaft the level three gets a sleeve that helps keep the aluminum tight against that steel spline and it prevents it from stripping out if you do your shifts appropriately and don't go trans go hd2 and just set it up to bang all hell broke loose this will last up to a very very high amount of power it will take it a couple things to check is your release check ball simply blow some air through it or whatever drips and fluid you know however you choose to check it there's all kinds of ways that ties in to what this third accumulator check ball would do it would vent all the fluid off and you would burn up your three four so definitely one of the things to check out the other thing you could blow through the holes just your lockup hole your overrun forward three four just give them a blow through just to make sure there's nothing in there check your lugs otherwise I have the sleeve pressed on lock tighted so we're ready to go Lube seal sits right on top and then your green o-ring four forward this drum is not too hard to put together you will need a spring compressor to do so and lube up your green o-ring very good I know a lot of guys don't have the type of tool I'm about to use to install the Pistons but if you don't have this tool there's a pretty high danger of clipping that o-ring and then you'll have a cross leak when you go to air check the drum here and a little Lube on your Lube sale that's where the shaft plugs in okay so along with that Philips lead there it also comes and you will have to use it bill it overrun piston okay just made to fit that seat or the sleeve everything else though in our builds you can use the aluminum pistons if you want if you're just building your own and its stock but I don't recommend that for performance I like the moulded steel pistons they hold up to heat and abuse better than the aluminum ones with the lip seals on much better you don't need tight blue or any fancy but these will work the OEM ones are they're great one thing you want to check - I keep talking about 3/4 which is the most sensitive pack I explain how the you know if your filters clogged it will burn it up I've explained how if any of these check balls leak it will burn it up the other thing to check is before you go installing your pistons take your three four piston and put it right there check the fit check the fit nice and tight that's another place that can leak and when I was saying about the filter clogging you know you're sucking fluid from that hole and you have to have enough fluid to power the entire servo board per piston that you're using whether it be second or fourth you have to have enough fluid to lube the band you have to have enough fluid to lube the 3/4 clutch pack and apply pressure to that you have to have enough fluid to go through all these channels and in the pump third and fourth about suck the pan dry and that's why everybody has such a problem with this thing and it's purely because the filters probably clogged anyway I'm probably gonna ride that subject the rest of the video okay I have a it's easier to install all these Pistons this way you have your forward set your return spring your 3/4 apply crown and your 3/4 piston itself this is that little tool I was talking about it helps Center all the Pistons to go down and and really help prevent that green o-ring from being clipped and you know if you do it don't feel bad about it like I've done it a couple times you know it even gets the best of us so you want to make sure all your seals are lubed if you're new at this and you put a little bit too much goo on it don't be afraid of it it's fine it's just gonna dissolve in your fluid when it heats up the first time any way too much goo is not really gonna hurt it okay what I like to do is I line up your fat tabs on your forward piston with the 3/4 apply crown tabs and then you have your little little guys here that should be in between such and you'll see how that fits okay slow easy and if you've lubed everything up and kept it centered whether you have the help of the tool or not you guys heard that little thunk and you seen I didn't even put any force on it it should just sink and there should be this little amount of spring back if you're using an old 700 spring cage which is recommended for the smart drum it'll have slightly more but the stock spring cage will just have a little bit the next thing we install is the billet overrun piston this isn't too bad no real special tools required the forward piston it has a nice enough bevel to where you shouldn't even need a lip seal installer or anything like that but it is a good idea to have those on hand in case you are having trouble but usually as simple a little bit of lube and a twist and push that will seat it just fine nice thorough coating set it in there clean dry hands are always easier to work with and just like that give it a rock give it a twist that if your bevel is lude up lubed up that bevel is usually more than enough to just ease it right in then we have our spring cage which it is a little tighter fit on that overrun piston but just get it on there everything will be hunky-dory and we have our clip which I'm going to use a spring compressor to install and that took me a little while spring compressors a little bent from the one transbrake we did a long time ago but you just want to get that clip in it is a little bit of a challenge especially without a spring compressor and you'll want the the opening the spring cage has four little tabs on it you want the opening between two of the tabs and those little tabs just help it keep the clip from blowing out otherwise once it's in it's in and it isn't going to come out we've never really seen it it's just something to that's why GM put them there and it's it's okay to follow their instructions on that we have your Spragg bearing I like to just put that in on the top the lube seals so don't forget it I don't make one hell of a noise if you don't put that in and fire this thing up okay before we get into clutches I want to talk about the forward Spragg here stout piece takes a lot of the brunt of the initial take off we at perform and built our Spragg design setup very unique we do a lot of modifications to help it out which I'm not going to talk about but if you do buy one of ours we're one of the only companies that actually does hydraulics to back this thing up so one of the things that's unique to us that we're very proud of okay first thing on the you know inspect your surfaces this is a bearing race technically and you want to make sure everything's smooth not worn out no burrs no gouges and a little Lube and a little Lube Lube is good okay the dual cage which comes in pretty much all of our builds here the 60s dual cage is metal BorgWarner if you get this brand this is the best one we've ever found it holds 99% of the applications and with them you know support that we do here it's even stronger than anybody else's so I'm pretty proud to say that now the dual cage is a little easier to install than a single cage or anything else I don't know why you would want to use a single cage other than just a stock rebuild but it's ok if it's just your daily driver GM use them it'll do fine if you're not beating on it otherwise it's not going to hold this is cheap enough you should throw one in anyway to install these this has a ridge these dual cages and the ridge goes on the outside of your race and I just take my hand hold it still and I take this twist it in nice and easy install our top our hub and our clip and then you want to test it you know we have a freewheeling counterclockwise if I hold it like this and lock in clockwise that's how it ought to be set that aside now we get into some clutches start building the base of our drum here okay I have our clutches and steels that we'll be using and another topic I want to cover because I get this question probably at least once a day and I don't mind answering it but I have it I get it so much that I have a copy pasted and I just copy paste the same thing everybody's gonna ask me why don't I soak the clutches why don't we soak the clutches why why why well a lot of stuff in the transmission world in the past mmm has had an air of confusion and somebody did it one way and now everybody thinks it's got to be done that way well the reason why we don't soak our clutches like in 1955 is because they didn't have dinos back then okay we have a dynamometer and when you don't soak the clutch if we were installing directly in a vehicle don't get me wrong yes I would soak them a vehicle's engine on startup it's a little bit harsher on the initial startup than a dyno would be and then chances are you know you run in everything no damage probably would occur if you don't soak them in a vehicle but it's a good idea to now in our case we have a dyno so I have complete control over everything I can bring on whatever load I want I can do this I can do slow fast low pressure high price it doesn't matter okay that being said because I've control of all those things we have no load when we start it up that means these aren't doing anything they're just free spinning in there and clearance is space in between so I don't soak them because there's no load there's space in between and the oil goes through the converter and the pump as soon as you hit that button faster than a blink of an eye so by the time I actually turn my head and get around to controlling the thing it's already good and soaked you know these are saturated completely and we're in to run it and ease it up through the pressures and everything else the other thing the reason why I don't soak them is because when you're doing clutch clearances cold oil creates imaginary drag it doesn't really exist and it throws you off making your 20 thousands clearance thinking it's not quite 20 thousands and then you end up adjusting it and it's probably 30 to 40 which is a little too much for me oil when it's cold doesn't really dry when it gets hot it gets so thin that any oil in the clearance space provided it's kind of irrelevant to where it doesn't actually fill space and creates a film like it would on your bushings that those metal components running same with your clutches so I don't soak them because one we have a dyno and it's a lot easier on this thing than you might think and two it does affect clutch clearances that's why I don't do it so I hope that makes sense to you all and answers your question okay first thing we're going to be doing is our overriding section when we start with the steel and then a BorgWarner overrun clutch and a steal and a BorgWarner over on clutch and the backing plate excuse me you got a little indigestion from my breakfast and then we do our wave plate and a forward steel then we stop now it's time for the duel kate Spragg forward Spragg we've assembled the reason being if you've ever semble de transmission before it's a lot easier just some components need shaking in when clutches are pre-installed it's a lot easier to install this hooking in on two clutches rather than seven okay you're just gonna drive yourself nuts trying to get that thing down so we just set it on top you'll hear a little metal to metal thunk and you'll make contact with your bearing you can spin it we've sunk both clutches forward ala Matic carbons great clutches hardly ever see any wear and tear they're just simply wonderful we use five okay and then our fly plate or backing plate however you want to say it and our snap ring that secures it all and you don't want any of your snap rings just kind of hanging haphazardly off of a particular law do you want you want them supported by the whole lug if you have them hanging halfway off that force of that pushing that pressure it could just pop one of those off and when one goes it's going to be a domino effect it's just going to be plinth clink-clink-clink all the way around and it's going to make a loud bang like 12-gauge okay next thing is our 3/4 pack and our 3/4 is so stout we use 8 in the level 3 we use 8 carbon BorgWarner frictions great friction we've adjusted our clearance before the video to 20 thousands and you see the amount of clutches that that back to going I told you guys I was gonna ride this filter thing the whole video going back to that you have eight frictions you have the band 4/4 plus these you have the surfaces that need Lube do you have the space and the piston that needs you have the servo bore that needs fluid you have the fourth cumulate er than these fluid you have so much fluid going everywhere you need your pan full and you need a good filter in it that's what I'm trying to hit given the best examples I can to show you it's not just a one-way street here you get up in 3/4 and this is where everybody's got their problem mostly because the transmission isn't serviced and it demands so much fluid it's unreal so layering these in start with our ply plate and then we just bang it out clutch steal clutch steel like sandwich like anything else and I've worked Oh a while like I usually do and we got about 20,000 sear needless to say in a perfect world you won't get 20 all the time unless you have the equipment and everything to do it if you're just doing this yourself 30 to 40 is perfectly fine that's way better than GM's factory clearance which I think was like a hundred or close to it that's more than enough and it's way better for a daily driver on performance do your damnedest you know try spend some time on it you know don't get frustrated you can get there I believe in you one of the best ways to tell is don't put your load springs and yet just you know stack it set your plate on and if you've got 20 it should be right at the lugs or just a hair above the truest way to tell is use these bad boys and yes we use them I know a lot of builders a lot of trolls they whine about it and they're like they're the three four killers no they're not no they're not they help prevent centrifuge in the three four pack when you're turning higher rpms and you're in another gear because this input drum is turning all the time it's it's plugged directly into the converter okay so we have this nice little bump free spinning clutch and you just want to take it around smack those load release springs back against the wall a little screwdriver or pick because they can kill your 3/4 don't get me wrong but only if you leave them against the clutch and not against the wall because that centrifugal force is always going to keep them flung out away from the clutches and the clutches they can go anywhere but around the ring gear so they're not going to make contact with it so we got a nice thump nice free spinning clutch about 20,000 gorgeous I like a little little oil I just like using my old school oiler here I've already done it but now would be the time to you know err check your work and you can do that by simply blowing in these holes with your gun a rubber tip helps you got your overrun forward and 3/4 that's really all you need to be concerned with and while you're blowing in like the 3/4 you know make sure your orifice here is venting a little air or fluid and then make sure your 3/4 here I'm sorry third release check ball is not leaking anything or any air and ceiling great because that's what needs to make sure it releases - if it doesn't release you have another problem you know the 3/4 is gonna be applied all the time and it's gonna be fighting other stuff it's gonna be a mess special tool ring sizer I've seen guys do it a million ways I've seen beer cans hose clamps zip ties a little dangerous to me I would just buy the right thing because if you these are kind of like what kills the 4 l80 it's not the steel it's not this it's not the power it's these these are Teflon but the stuff in here is spinning so fast that these are very capable and have done it so many times eating into the metal parts so in this case if you used beer clan and you didn't do it quite right and you pinched it then that little pinch spot you know may be good to the eye but on a smaller scale it's gonna eat into your pumps later over no it's just gonna wallow that thing out and then you're gonna have a cross leak and you're gonna burn up a clutch pack it's just how it is these take your time on I like to do them all at once but you don't want to stretch them out too much and you certainly don't want to force them on and twist them it's always good to buy extra in case you mess up but you just a little finger dexterity this takes practice you just you know work them down on there and you take less and less time on the actual sizer as you go up now you don't have to do all these at once you can do them one at a time which is really what I recommend I'm just used to it then you take your actual sizer and with light pressure while your other fingers helping Center your rings so you don't clip any just keep using it down and there you go four sized rings now these aren't completely sized yet don't get me wrong they take a second so now is a good time I have a 70 washer for any play just take a guess I do put the bearing on not like the factory says but there's a reason for that it is a little better tightens up end play the pump doesn't actually touch that thing so it's or I'm sorry the reverse drum doesn't actually touch that thing the pump does you can do it however way you want either way is so inconsequential it doesn't matter that's the way I do it if you want to get nitpicky fine you can yell at me later in the comment so while we're letting those size up and give it like 10 minutes it takes some time now is a great time to start working on this which we need the reverse input drum done to install on this before we go installing it into the case we used a OM reverse input drum no need to use anything else I don't think there is anything else for BorgWarner reverse clutches two lip seals snap ring cage steels concave wave plate they're the most important thing about this drum purely is the fact that this surface is nice straight and clean okay especially if you are using a wideband if you're using an OEM band it doesn't need to be straight the OEM band is only going to utilize the middle of it and it has flexibility and it can adapt to that the wide read ban and Raybestos super pro which is what I like to use they utilize the entire surface of this drum and if you have even the slightest bow in the middle especially with the carbon Kevlar that we use even if it looks like it's making contact to your eye it's not going to make contact and answer Adolfo's question we don't use a shift kit we don't use anybody's we make our own and our parts just aren't for sale our shift kits not for sale because the reason it just can't be even if I wanted to sell it to you because every single build I get a piece of paper and it has a whole bunch of facts about your car on it and I build the shift kit how I want to sew our shift kits are purely up here between the builders that work here so every single one is literally going to be different I if you want to use the shift kit I don't the brand doesn't really matter but what I recommend to you is don't set it up hard the max setting don't do that that's bad that's what breaks stuff everybody thinks the hardest shift possible is performance it's not it's firm shifts or performance holding the power is performance not breaking tires loose every time you go 1 2 3 4 that's not performance so if you are using your own shift kit and doing this yourself just dial it back maybe use the middle recommendation or the lighter recommendation that's what you should do otherwise perform a bill me can't sell you shift can't even tell you what to do just because it's all gonna depend and that's where the beauty of our company comes in literally is custom I don't know I lost myself there doesent seen a question but anyway the surface using wide van gotta be flat so that way it can utilize the whole band because if you don't have the middle you're actually taking away from the full benefit you're if the middle of this band isn't being used you basically have an OEM band okay you did nothing so that's why that matters okay going on to build this thing this thing be a little tricky for some the best tip I could give you is do a shot have some patience and you'll need a special I have one that looks like this this is a lip seal installer tool I have one that looks like this this is another lip seal installer tool either/or will work this one a little bit more dangerous just because it's metal and sharp if you're not experienced don't use it or you cut apart a trapper keeper I've seen guys do that so work your lip seals in if you're doing anything with lip seals you know the lip seal needs to be down in the direction of the fluids so it can flare out and you know seal it it can't just be the other way because it won't it'll open up the wrong way and flu will just blow by so we want our lip seals facing down because fluids gonna be not really going up but it's gonna be going through here into here and go like that and applying this piston so this is OEM this isn't anything aftermarket and assembly gooo around the center and the outside this is this is a part that's kind of fun like if you're doing this at home you know this is one of them things that you can just constantly be getting better and better at and eventually you know you may struggle for 30 minutes at first but if you do just a few of them you'll sink them in and just a few seconds to a minute and then you'll make people wonder how you did that okay so the first thing on this drum I'm going to use this guy because this is the one that most people probably have access to I know you used to come in kits but you'll go around the center until you feel the the first seal drop you know want my hair is in there and then you'll go around the outside while giving it a I don't know a firm not firm but a little bit of pressure in the center and what you're looking for really is that tight spot once you feel the tight spot with your little tool you'll go back around keep giving the firm push and you should feel it's sink mine sunk a long time ago it only takes a couple seconds this is the one thing where you can't these Pistons kind of got to give that firm push this there isn't a firm push it's either going to go or it's not and you can't force it and there's not really enough bevel to really help you out anyway okay the next step you can go about it one or two ways you can install the clutches and Steel's or you can do the spring cage it doesn't matter which one comes first I'm gonna do the cage just because I don't like using tools that aren't at my desk it's annoying to me okay clips in and again this spring page a little bit bigger a little bit different looking but it has the same principle as that one it's got four excuse me it's got four little tangs here that help hold the clip and so you want that Center right in the middle there now we move on this concave wave plate here I'm gonna do it different than the OEM I'm putting it in this way and that isn't the stock way but it is so inconsequential it does not matter if you're gonna yell at me for it the reason I like to do it this way is just because of something I think makes sense this way is OEM and you have the center surface is what's pushing up not that at the outside another thing is this way it can slip in if it ever does break which is rare it can slip in here and and the pieces can hinder it I guess or bind it up with this way it uses a little bit more of the surface area of the actual steel and it can actually get in there it'll just kind of stay in pieces but that is so I've never actually seen that it's just a thing I read in some of the update pages and the kits then we have a steel clutch clutch ending with a clutch and then our big fly plate and our sapling okay and you just want to make sure you free spinning clutches you should have you know a little space the clearance does not matter in this drum it's gonna vary some drums have more than others all you need to be concerned with was it with this drum is the clutches just need to spin freely because this drums actually spinning faster than anything else in this unit no matter what so once that's all said and done we take our reverse input drama and we shake it till it drops put our sizer back on just keep it on there so you're ready to do the pump or whatever and we take our drum and put it in our case I have you can use vice grips or whatever you want I have something we made out of a old convertor hub and a piece of rebar and you'll just kind of twist and shake you shouldn't have to rough up the time getting it in there but you'll hear a metal-on-metal it'll drop you can see the reverse input drums a little below the the pump surface here and that's where that's where we ought to be all set and done next things are we're a best-of super pro band that comes in our level 3 all day all the time and I already talked about about the reverse drum service and the things the band needs to you know do its job efficiently ok next we line up our I think they call it the volcano on the band and then our anchor pinhole and simply check to see if we're any of the band parts are hitting the case or anything hmm excuse me alright now move on to the servo but first lube up your servo bore you may end up doing this a couple times like I probably will in the video setting the band clearance which is you know just as important as the 3/4 you don't want it nears tight isn't 34 because it cannot overlap and there is a little overlap to delay with our modifications we have gotten rid of that but on stock 60 you will feel an overlap on the downshift okay so I ever pin installed with spring clip washer what I think it ought to be I've shaved it off you know pretty close I'm just simply taking a guess just because you need to kind of assemble it to even get a proper band clearance but this is Sonic super hold second gear servo and forth and you guys all know that so that's what we use in level one too or I'm sorry level two three and black edition and we just install our Center o rings here just work them in outside o-rings our D rings one of the things that you always want to be careful with no matter what training or what you're installing D rings they cannot be twisted the flat must be down and the rounded D part will be what actually makes contact so I like to clamp the o-ring down with my thumb and condon just run my other hand and pull on it you know and let it go once I know it's flat and flush okay a little give in the middle I like to put a little assembly Lube on the servo pen itself just to protect it from sliding in now that bore whether you be air checking or the initial startup or what have you and our return spring okay one thing you want to do is you must use this gold washer with this servo and to make it easier remove the so ring when you're checking your clearance if you put this in the board it's not going to want to come out you're going to ruin an o-ring and if you aren't a shop like me you probably won't have another one and even if you are a shop that's a waste of money so remove it would clamp from Home Depot handiest handiest tool ever I'll let you use both hands and however you want to do it snap ring here and the OEM ban early not the OEM bands these Raybestos super program bands I'd say space is about a clip length you don't want it to drag too much or really be that close because the carbon has a lot more grip than the red bands or any other band does and there's that overlap you don't want that so really if you just grab the band back here and you can move it up and down like this and spin the entire assembly without touching the reverse drum like if you just move the input shaft in it turns you're probably perfect in every way and I think I nailed it you know I definitely did if you watch the pin and everything there's about a clip length I can freeze spin everything nothing's really dragging or binding up and we can check this further simply by just putting the pump backing in it doesn't have to be bolted down or anything but it helps Center it so you want to check your release whole fourth gear it springs back really quick it's about the same clearance fourth has a little bit more than second well and then second gorgeous so now just to make sure put a little little Lube on the Rings and center shaft there and in this pump stator this is just our pump back it just helps you helps you see and I like to just you know poke the band you can move it up and down and it spins pretty freely you know the same way you would yeah nice band clearance so this is just you know set your pump backing on it and you can better see when it's actually centered but if you've got it it usually isn't that far out of whack and you can see what you got so now we just remove the four servo and are clipped and install our ring and then we're moving on to the palm okay back where it was nice and tight all right just wipe my excess grease from my hands off there and we have our fully installed servo second servo pin band reverse drum and put drum 3/4 overrun and forward Spragg clutches so moving off probably the most important thing in this transmission is the pump so I've said it before the pumps like your heart pumps all the blood fluid it's even the same color so our pump is unique to our build it is heavily modded just slapping another pump in will not work but if you are doing your own or repairing yours or just checking things out there are certain things to look for one of the things we address here at perform a bill is we look at the TCC valve the pressure regulator valve and the boost valve and we check for wear marks you can usually see a shiny spot like on the boost valve or the valve inside the casing that's rubbed raw and let's fluid pass by you can test this valve you know it's important that this pump be flawless because it really is you know without good pressure what you've done is virtually useless it just won't work without it now this this delivers this pumps ok this tells us what to do the valve body this makes sure it does what it does all the time so one of the most important things is we Jack the pressure up in this pump mechanically so if you have one of ours please keep that in mind we boost it to roughly 220 depending on your application the daily driver is it a little less than 220 or the tower's but if you have your tune-up in your car truck to make your stock 60 last which is okay get me wrong could use a little more pressure I think they run like 140 hundred fifty stock if you've jacked that up please if you have one of ours turn it back down to whatever stock was which is usually sixty sixty five percent on your tune to be safe and you'll just want to check your stock bin file if you've done any tuning at all you should save that stock bin file anyway or you shouldn't be tuning period if you have questions or trouble with tuning please give us a call we know quite a bit about it and we'll be more than happy to help you out tuning your car truck or just getting it back to stock or however you know whatever we need to do to make this work for you so we do the valve work you know vacuum check air check fluid check you know make sure your surfaces are perfect in every way you have a new bushing and otherwise the pump is pretty much just the pump it has always been a good pump I like the 4l60 pump more so than any for door for a lady or anything else because those pumps are those pumps are gear driven okay this is for L eighty not only does weigh about forty five pounds there is no room for error in this at all this is a gear with machined surfaces and gears have dragged from the fluid and if you do not have this lined up just right and your spacing is not just right and I mean perfect this thing is gonna fail and send shrapnel through the entire unit it will probably still pump but until it clogs up with metal shrapnel ferment grinding itself up and then it will stop this thing which I'll show you when assembled has a lot of flexibility a lot of room for error and it pumps it pumps so much more than this thing and it has virtually no drag on it and it's just a far superior pump than this for a lady pump just because of what it's made of the biggest problem with these things guys pull the transmission up with the bolts there's something stupid like that and then it breaks it cuz this is just it's not steel like this one this is just powdered metal okay it's meant to never see load it does not see load pressure there is a point one percent chance pressure could ever break this thing and it's probably because it's faulty to start with we use this all the way up well over a thousand horsepower the 13 vane stock OEM rotor and it is fine if the clutch erm sorry converter clearances right and everything in the pumps correct okay if you're breaking rotors left and right your Flex plates wonky your fly wheels I'm sorry not your flywheel your converters messed up you know thrust bearing issues or just you didn't do it right if you can't get this 13 or 10 bank 10 vanes really just as good there's a big argument between the two but I think they're the same they pump the same volume and everything if you're getting these to break or somebody tells you you need a bill at one no you don't you have another issue that you need to address and that's just plain simple fact if you do break your pump on install I'm not gonna be mad at you just tell us you know we'll work with you on it because it's an easy thing to do like if you if you never installed a before or you're new to you know whatever so the first thing we got to do the pump is the bushing and once we do that you have the slide a portent piece for this this has to move and there's an o-ring inside here right in there that needs replaced and that is extremely important and we have our pin spring our Teflon and rubber and the Teflon and rubber is for the slide and goes in this little notch here and it's important for the rubber if you've taken apart your pump in the Robert is flat the little black rubber you need to replace it it needs to be round it does a job by helping keep all this pressure along with this o-ring and everything everything's got to compress and be tight that slide can't be just flopping around in there so this helps so if it's flat replace it but you can slide them both down in there like so and then your pin which will lock it all into place the pin gets a where spot on it because it's it's it's not on the slide side it's on the casting of the pump side because not all of it actually touches the casting so that slide is going to be moving back and forth you know through various throttle points and the pins not gonna be stationary it's gonna giggle itself around a little bit in there and it's gonna wear on it so you want to make sure the entirety of your surface or your pin is round and smooth if it's not you just need to replace it you can't half-ass it it just will not work right you'll have like if you do take any shortcuts like that you will have the slow issue that you may think is something else or the 4l60 is just junk and let me throw up our hands and just quit it's probably something stupid like this and it's not gonna be something that's an issue right away but it will be you know within I don't know we'll say whatever miles next thing I like to do I like to use these for l70 concave Springs they're a little bit heavier duty scoot the slide back and then with a screwdriver or a special tool it doesn't matter just pry it in there that also takes a little practice okay then we set our thirteen vein rotor in and a little tip you know if you've had let's say you have a in your car and you broke the pump or or something else and you're wondering what your spacing actually was how you can tell is if you can't tell just by putting a drill bit up before you bolt the thing up you could tell by when you have this apart you can see the shiny spot where the converter neck has rode that's about how much spacing you got and how much you can have and you know if you're too deep you're gonna be grinding in the back of this if you're too little your converter is gonna come out and come out of these teeth to try to go back in the wrong way because this is near impossible to do and then smash this thing so it's very important that you have 1/8 to 3/16 spacing for your converter and flex plate pads and I'll have a post on that I'll show you drillbit allen key something you can measure with and you probably won't need shims I had to use two shims but just use some good washers if you need them keep in mind not every vehicle needs a shim so I don't want guys to think you just need shim shim everything no that's not true check it with a drill bit between your pads shove the converter back and put your drill bit up and shove it forward and that's how many washers you know you need and there's a very detailed post on it where it's like that long and there's pictures and everything it's on our Facebook check it out I know that wasn't the best explanation but essentially you have your flex plate and your converter and you shove the converter back all the way so that the back is what's hitting is the neck on this that's what's hitting then you move it up to where you have an eighth 3/16 however either ones fine I prefer an eighth so back to this we have a thirteen main rotor on the 60 like to use harden rings they don't help the road or any but what they do do is they help prevent wear on these little guys so we'll slide our veins in and they should just slip right in and our top hardened ring to help keep it all in place and now that we're pretty much assembled I don't know if you guys can see this too much but the 80 it don't have any play this 60 look at all this it's a very flexible great pump and it pumps it'll do up to 400 psi before the relief goes and it vents off all the fluid which it will probably pump more had this not being there okay so as with any oil pump with the 80 or the Fords you need to pack them with grease with the 4l60 simply a little fluid will do not a good idea to pack it with grease it's just a different type of pump and it doesn't work that way okay now we we're about ready to drop it in line it up just pick a spot Oh also make sure you have a new screen in here this catches Converter debris so you know if you may be doing your own and you want to know if your converter failed if dumping it out and putting a rag under it and seeing a bunch of black pepper flakes doesn't do it for you if there was anything that failed it's going to be caught in here and that's another way we can tell if you you know your converter took a or whatever so I like to pick the I use the boost control or boost valve port here just to help me line it up you can use the lock-up vein or you know any ones that match it's only really gonna go on one way I've never tried to put it on another way but I can't imagine it would line itself up where all the bolts would actually go in a big part of something else to check that it ain't quite covers is run your finger and shine a light down in your pump stator it's a machined surface it can't have any grooves or digs or anything because of those teflon sealing rings need to ride it and the stator is still it just plugs in the converter and it it does not spin it does not move however what does spin is your input shaft and that's constantly moving at a minimum of 750 rpm or whatever whatever your vehicle's setup so that needs to be nice and smooth good for those ceiling rings no I just like to use a speed handle what we're doing now is we're getting ready to line the pump up I know there's a couple specialty tools for this you mean one second will be a phone here quits all right so speed handle what I like to do is you have it loose give it a snap just two bolts will do loose give it a snap that'll make sure everything is kind of tight but kind of loose and like I said I know there's a specialty tool for this but I've taken apart GM remands where they actually I know they use that tool and the pumps just don't come out like they aren't lined up I'm doing it away that is my way and it works 100% of the time every time and you can slip it in and out like butter years after you built it so trolls bear with me why now one thing I've learned is there is no right or wrong way to really do anything with cars there is only what works and that's how we're doing it today okay before we go putting rings and stuff on it how I do it my way is you remove your sizer you have your kind of loose kind of tight halves take a screwdriver or a dowel pin line it up in one of the bolt holes here and with a dead blow simply give it a couple taps knock the halves together Jimmy I'm around a little bit it should move nice and free like that now for the trolls that were whining about my clawfoot Noah metal hammer is not going to hurt it but you can see you probably can't see there is overlap the back and front are overlapping so what you want to do is eliminate that and how I do is I just simply give them a couple taps to knock them back and forth the screwdriver helps keep the backing in a permanent position where the front can kind of slop around a little bit once they are not clean with the you should be able to pull this right out if your hands aren't totally greased up a little help of a pry bar but you should have no resistance it should slide out like butter and then you go tightening it down there very nice now you see here how nice and easy that moves and if I don't have the greasiest the greasiest hands it comes right out and thank God I didn't mess it up when I whacked my table with it but you can see if you're still lined up you know if you just look right down through your actual bolt holes for the case and then what you want to do is you just want to keep a firm hand on it and tighten it down a buddy helps if you don't have a special setup for air and that's another thing I'm gonna say it's one time high-volume shops use guns we're not your mom-and-pop shop that means you know torque this torque that these do it there is a whole thing over there that is I don't even understand how it works but it's all regulated and this is for us so I'm tired of hearing dual use an air gun that's not it's not just an air gun and always tighten in a star pattern like I said that that system over there is it's set to a certain thing which virtually all the 60 bolts are the same torque spec it ain't much I forget what inch pound or whatever it is but that's just a high rpm low torque gun so now that we're all tightened up I'm Mike Mike's one of our guys he's running nine seconds possibly faster next year and his full weight Camaro about almost 4,000 pounds about 38 50 I believe and he's in the nines with our black edition so he's pretty fast next year he probably do a little nitrous and josh is right josh is one of the guys I've worked with with his problems he's just honest and alive about nothing communicates that's all I want we'll do our best to work with you on anything okay we have our scarf cut rings here for our reverse drum and our little goth washer and for those there's another thing for those that say 4l60 4l60 can't be in the nines and Mike's right there he's in the nines and ain't even nothing new anymore there's so many in the nine it's not just ours there's other companies stop saying that okay next thing I'm running out of goo but we'll put our gasket and oring I have to remove up our surface here this might be all the salmon we live by have left for the video I don't know if a botany okay Gasquet a little beknownst fact the 60 is not too crazy on end play it's not overly sensitive it does matter but it's not like the 80 and will order the 400 or anything but your gaskets are a factor and end play and not so much this one but with another transmission they're actually quite the big factor nice and easy a little PB Blaster if you're ever disassembling anything these gaskets tend to stick this will just help keep them from sticking on the components it'll make any cleaning or cleanup easier for you it's a little bit now we have our ring give it a snap a little grease around it okay just when you flip it over check your holes again see if you're still aligned up which we are and we should be hitting the o-ring which we are now these are your pump bolts and they all have little rings underneath them really important I like one thing I'm doing here is I like to put the pump bolts in because I like to tap the pump down with rubber mallet I don't like to use the bolts to do it and with these o-rings it won't just fall in you know good luck and just hand thread them in hello thank you a little more goo and it's pretty easy to do like you can drive them in with the bolts but I don't like that I know ton of builders that do that that's me things I don't like to be that way where I can't be exact with this I know it doesn't may not look the best but if you put pressure on one side with your hand harder than most and you're tapping another and you go back and forth it will stave and it can't actually gouge anything and it will be a nice fluid install like you just saw plus driving it in with the Roger wall I shouldn't use the word driving pulling it in with the bolts is never a good thing on anything and the only other thing is doing it that way you can't feel if you were actually clipping one of those Center rings or not or something that's kind of out of place with tapping and using your hands you can feel if there's not something right and you can feel that there's anything binding or going wrong otherwise it's just right in and that's mostly what I'm trying to iterate to a lot of guys that say you know why don't you get the special tool to do it because it's a huge bracket thing nobody wants to set that up and this works why does it why does it matter if it works and it's easier at that I know some guys just have a lot of pride okay and just alrighty pumps in now we do our front pump seal and you can do you can do the pump seal before you actually go installing the pump I think it's easier just to do it after our retainer keeps it from blowing out because the aluminum and steel have different expansion rates that ties into a lot of things but we'll just leave it there for now your lockup oh ring which is important you know if you're putting in your converter for the first time you've never done it before be very careful if you clip that ring you won't know about it it's super easy to do and you will not have lockup so if you install a ours be it or whoever's and you don't have lockup right away you might mess that up something to look at I know it's a pain to pull out but it happens mistakes are made okay now all I'm doing is checking in play I like to grab the shaft kind of cockeyed with my little tool and push in and out on it and it should have very very little but some you know it shouldn't be totally locked down or hard to turn any other way I don't know if that can't now the camera can't really see that let's make sure and we want to be able to a little bit harder to do than the input chef but we want to turn the output shaft both ways it should it should feel very free counterclockwise and clockwise it should move very nice but it will be a little harder to turn because you have the workings of everything that's going on in here so now we're moving on we're almost done here something to check that you should do way before you get to this step but when you've installed your low roller and snap ring you should give your clutches and steels for your low reverse a little poke that clearance should be about a steel or about a clutch it not really that sensitive but you should have something there otherwise if it's too tight probably won't be able to turn this and if it's too loose that piston can overextend and you'll have a whole mess issues okay one of the things you'll see me do in this video very like right now that's the second check ball there don't leave that out or you'll have a second shift from hell is I've installed this piston in the past and it's no secret anymore that if you just leave it out and plug the hole it prevents leak and it gives the plan its lube and all gears and not just forth so that's what we're doing today so if you see me leave it out I've left it out and plugged it for a reason because it is better than simply flipping it or leaving it in there and it is not a secret trick or anything it's just something that it's like blocking the PWM and making it on or off everybody does it it's nothing new and the OEM way just doesn't work it's a fault from the factory so if you're sitting here and saying I left out a piece no I didn't quite clearly I'm talking about it that's why don't get me okay next you know this is where the video gets fast and shift kit I made up for his Impala it's it's gonna get it there is no real way I can tell you how to do this like I said it's just a matter of knowing what holds the drill and how big and his rear and you know what he's actually doing the type of driving he's doing so I've already built a shift kit and everything and you know rerouted some of the hydraulics in it to do some special things that we are known for at perform a built and I'm going to begin by securing this with our plate here and three small eight millimeters just hand thread everything in for now and then I've set up his second accumulator housing here this is also along with our shift kit it's going to vary for the heavier vehicles I like it a little softer shifting for a race car it's got a lot of flexibility it doesn't you know quite matter but either way in your shift kit you don't want to eliminate it you don't want to block it off you need the accumulator don't get rid of it that's what breaks stuff hard shifts are not performance if you have a transmission that just breaks tires a part throttle like not even given it anything on second you have you have an issue your transmission shifts too hard and it is going to break something and you know you guys hear the phone and everything this is actually a little bit milder of a day but christmas is coming up and if you guys are in a hurry and you have ordered I encourage you to get them in because we just got back from Thanksgiving I'm pretty stacked so if you're waiting around and you're in a rush don't wait get in line just call and place that order because it's gonna build it up and I'm not gonna be able to get it to you within just a couple days it might take a week or more you never know but if you want to order get them in any of the years coming call today and we'll get you in line and get you done because these these take a while it's not just something we keep on the shelves I need you guys to understand that too you don't keep transmissions on the shelves you call it's not ready obviously and we have to build it that's how it works you know when I say custom I'm not talking out my ass I mean okay so these two holes here the top one this one over here for the pressure manifolds which these are actually your alignment holes you don't need any fancy dowels or anything like that you just need two bolts and once you get these your second accumulator and your reverse plate here hand threaded in you can just torque these down I think it's eight foot pounds I'm not sure but those are really the only two you don't need to shove a bolt in every single hole those will be if you actually sit here and look you'll see them it is a lot tighter and this is an oblong hole it's shaped differently all righty now undo your alignment bolts now we only have a couple more bolts fresh manifold switch pwm 3 2 all that and our valve body which I really is a lot of the strength in our unit I've had guys ass you know you're not using the stock valve body are you and I'm like yeah you know that's all they have and give me one second this starting to get crazy here alright can you just can you just come in and wait I'm doing a video and everybody's busy so it'll only be maybe 15 more minutes so back to this valve body a lot of our strength comes from the valve body not yea when what we do to it not the type of material it's made out of and we do everything from rerouting fluid and making it work differently to just overall improving the functionality of it and that's where I go back to that custom thing so I've already done it and unfortunately I can't show you one because I don't want to it is a secret and two I don't want to give you the wrong idea of that I've built this for an Impala and if you do exactly what I said it's actually not going to work in your truck as well as it should because it's heavier your rear might be different and it's set up different so all I've really gonna talk about is we have a aluminum piston in our forward accumulator brand new solenoids and our 1 2 and 2/3 solenoid our pressure control solenoid epc solenoid and overall just gone through clean flat sanded and done our mod this primarily you know the transmission for those of you that don't quite understand how it works the pump is a pump and that does one thing and it's a constant it pumps pressure the components provide your surface area that helps with your strength this tells it what to do and gives it the volume that it needs to have through you know certain channels and everything else so how a transmission works is it's actually kind of stupid it does not it can't make its own decisions if your transmission is not shifting right or just something's amiss it's actually probably not the transmission unless you have a mechanical failure in here which is rare you know unless you have a stuck valve this thing is usually going to do what it's going to do or if you throw a code then you might have a problem but honestly these solenoids and everything else the solenoids work on or off and that's how it changes gears the PCM tells that what to do but it can't do it by itself pressure control solenoid operates on a step system I believe there's five steps and it needs a computer tell it what to do otherwise it's going to go max line and it's just going to put all the fluid it can to it so in essence if you have a shift issue first thing you need to do is scan for codes otherwise it's probably mechanical and we need to dive deeper but always when you have a problem whether it be our unit or someone else's or yours scan for codes first that's first step in everything and then you know we here at perform built you can call us more than happy to help you we'll help you through the rest of the process we know what steps to take and before we go just yanking out a transmission so the only thing that I have left to do the valve body which I'm sorry I know you guys hate it that I don't talk about it you know but okay that's what makes us special and that's just why so I need my new tub of goo here if you're installing it in the car underneath probably not necessary to use goo but I would anyway helps keep the balls from falling around if you're installing like I am definitely need some goo good luck trying to aim that valve body on the okay so we have our balls in and everything and this is one of those things that you know when you're installing a valve body it helps to take this little tensioner off I'm not going to do that just because I'm used to it and you don't really need alignment dowels or anything just simply with any transmission just take your time and be careful what you're doing you know it's something that's not going to be so far out of whack it's almost impossible not to get it lined up so I like to leave it rest your goos holding your balls in place and put your linkage shaft in the manual shift lever and just let it rest and as long as you got it damn close take a bolt doesn't matter and give a straight firm push down and if you've just been careful and lined it up right you should be able to very easily start able into the hole which will help that tensioner held down like so and if you just look you know it's it's lined up but don't forget you know it's the same as this if you actually looked at the valve body holes and looked at some of the alignment holes this hole here for the pressure manifolds which one of the bolts is a lot tighter around the bolt then any of these holes are and that's for an alignment so I don't think you can see that but we have all this slop we have no slop same up there so now we just finished installing our valve body here and what we have is a whole bunch of ten millimeter bolts and eight millimeter bolts and that's about the only size that you need next to the 13 millimeter that is the the pump bolts so all I do is set these in here and hand thread them all you know you don't want to just go attacking it with a ratchet or anything you have two small ten millimeters over here they're shorter than the rest our pressure manifold switch that you will install next with our three very long ten millimeters and if you're one of them guys it just has no ten millimeters or constantly is losing that damn socket this is not the transmission for you it's a ten millimeter nightmare all right these three are the longer eight millimeters and they go in these spots anywhere else it's gonna cause a lock down on the Sun shell and you will have no second fourth in Reverse or you could shear the bolt off and get not so lucky and cause damage or have a horrible noise and it might still work but odds are you're gonna lock it down it's really amazing what a bolt can hold on to to short eight millimeters and a couple extra odds and ends my guys left in the pan here but nothing that belongs so all you should have left at this point is one clip your solenoid here and two very short ten millimeters for the TCC solenoid so I like to start with the original alignment bolt and tighten that up and then just move on in Conover Christmas Aussie pattern good is gold alright very lastly we plug in our harness to our EPC our pressure control solenoid our one two two three you ever want to mess with your buddies drop their pan switch them to around you'll have all kinds of goofy stuff you're making their vehicle do not telling you guys to do that but if you want to be funny okay plug our tsetse in with its two bolts a lost one and secure that and lastly little assembly goo and just tuck that and these new harnesses they can be a little stiff but they'll conform eventually after it heats up alright guys so there is the valve body everything's done slap a pan on this just as a mock up here and come back this is the type of filter I used for the dyno it's just a shallow a Willam filter but I'm quite literally this is how y'all have install a filter just to show you installed nice and tight and we have a gaskets we'd like to use the far pact fiber gaskets they have like tar on them that kind of adheres after they heat up at first a really great gasket don't like pork and this is just my dyno test pans we just give out black pans they're very nice and we're just going to put four bolts in it for show so it looks I don't feel like doing 16 bolts just show you guys what a transmission looks like so I'll just do it this way I got one more step here where's my good markers for you Kendrick here we go there we go there's my signature on that and there we have it guys all right this hook off here and give you got us to spin around and send you on your way the rest of the day alright there's my signature this is Kendrick 650 wheel horsepower handling level 3 4l60 servo beautiful gorgeous

Channel: PerformaBuilt Transmissions

Views: 120,342

Keywords: 4L60, 4L80, 4L60E, 700R4, WHP, impala, camaro, trans AM, ws6, How to, monster, rpm, tci, performabuilt, silverado, transmission, turbo, boost, 4l65, 4L65E, 4L70, 4L70E, servo, converter, FTI, Circle D, street, 4L80E, assemble, assembly, info, information, C5, Corvette, LS, LT, 4.8, 5.3, 5.7, 6.0, LSX, LSA, 4l60, 4l70, 4l60E, 4l65E, 4l70E, performance, performance transmission, automatic, performance automatic, automatic transmission, performabuilt transmissions, trans am, corvette, truck, car, racing, drag strip, how to, 700whp, ss2

Id: HUe3bcL_ArM

Length: 119min 52sec (7192 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 19 2019