4 Types of DIY Bathroom Wall Tile Installations You Will LOVE!

all right this is home renovation and this is YouTube's favorite channel for DIY renovation information to help you get professional results today we've got a compilation video for different kinds of bathroom tile installations so we've got different substrates waterproofing systems different sizes and designs a tile different layouts all the information you're going to need as a DIY err to figure out what process you want to use in your bathroom and you won't have to watch 200 YouTube videos to find all the information it's all right here stay tuned [Music] so in this video the four different projects we're going to be covering for you are this one of course makes a little bit of sense why we're standing here and this is a large rectangular it's a 4 by 16 and we have an accent niche here now this is really awesome because we're going to show you the layout the design so you don't have ugly cuts and how to install your niche right on the graph lines that is something that most people fail at and it screams when you walk in the bathroom right so we're going to go through that process so you get that right we're also going to show you a traditional subway tile installation that also has one of those decorative glass mosaic bands and about eye level those are really popular nowadays have great resale value again a relatively simple installation nothing too tricky there the next one we're gonna have is a 2 by 2 foot square tile now that's a large format tile there's a lot to learn as far as tiling techniques you've got to have some better tools for that one but it also is on a waterproof membrane system so there's great information if you're ready to tackle that kind of project and if you're a novice you're just getting started we got a great little 6x6 tile project for you that's easy to do with just a simple little scratch tool and basic tools so no matter where you're comfortable with your project and what kind of information how far you want to push yourself there's something for everybody in this video so sit back and relax get the popcorn ready it's going to take a few minutes but you're gonna learn a ton and you don't have to keep on listening to people say please subscribe to the channel for the next two hours ok thanks a lot for joining us we'll see you on the other side now you know that I'm a firm believer that the best contractor you can have in your house is yourself but this is one of these topics of conversation we need to have because there is information that you're missing if you're just going to go and tile your bathroom and if you're gonna start on one side and work your way across start at the bottom and build up you're gonna tile it wrong it's not that simple bathrooms are unique in design both in the dimensions of the walls and the fact that we complicate our lives using a variety different sizes of stone and we complicate our lives with shower niches so what we're going to follow through today is a step-by-step tutorial on how to lay out your shower and it's not going to matter what kind of style you use it's all about in the process alright so today is about how to organize your so that you're gonna start in the right place you can finish in the right place and you're gonna have beautiful lines and not have a bunch of stupid little slivers laying around or have everything seem like it's sitting to the one side or all on a slope okay so here comes a whole pile of information for you hopefully this will help you with your project at home so that you can have a professional-looking shower and you can do it for free all right here we go so this is a pretty basic and normal tile installation we have a tub that's put on a floor and it's a wood frame construction house so the floor is not level you don't want to try to level your tub all right it is a really difficult process you're not gonna get the structural support that you want and it's going to cause a difficulty if your tub is out by more than one degree then maybe you need to take a look at some leveling solutions before you put the tub in but in most cases the tub is never installed level but the tile needs to be and this is one of the first secrets you need to identify the high point on this tub okay and the low point on the tub and realize that you can always cut a little bit off the bottom to make it keep this line level at the top all right but what you can't do is you can't stretch the tile so if you start at the high side and you come across and then you have this huge gap you're in a lot of trouble and you're not gonna get a good look so here's what we do first step in doing a good tile job is go out and buy yourself that laser level okay I'm gonna put that in the description below everybody needs one of these if you're gonna renovate at home this is a must-have tool you get a laser level out and you just screw to the wall and then you can have your line to work with the entire time I like to use mine actually max gave me one of his camera stands and so it spreads on top and I can raise it up because I'm going through the whole process every one of my lines perfect it takes all the guesswork out of what you're doing and then remember most people their eyes aren't perfectly balanced one is higher than the other one and if you install tile based on what you see you're most likely always going to put it on an angle so use a laser level so that everybody who comes into room is going to see it's perfect next when you build your niche you need to take your tile and in this case we have a four by 16 and you need to think about where the niche goes in advance you can't just cut it out into the wall and put the hole where you think it's comfortable it's going to look good it has to be where the tile finishes and where the tile line starts okay and this is something that you have to measure out and we've got a video that explains how to do this really well so we're gonna have a link at the description below I remember the most important process here is pick your tile first before you build your bathroom all right you need to have your tile on hand so that you can measure out how tall it is from the tub to the niche before you build your niche so that your lines line up where they need to be whether it's going to be a four by sixteen like this so I got a twenty inch to the top and then another 16 inches to here or if you have a different size stone you've got to sort that out in advance so that you can finish right on these lines and these lines will connect and be very continuous you're not going to get slivers slippers are the enemy okay so whenever you're tiling and you get slivers which have little thin pieces in either direction that's a sure tell-tale sign that someone's done something wrong so we need to avoid that now once you've got your niche set up and cut out and waterproofed and you're all ready to go now you have to take into account the dimension of your stone and there are really only two ways to do this you have to set up a centerline on your wall and you're either going to start with your stone center of the stone on the center line we're gonna start with a grout on the center line now in this case we're going with a half offset which means we're going like this so no matter what stone we start with the next row is gonna be the exact opposite so this is not a concern if you're doing stack stone then it becomes really crucial okay to make sure that you get that perfect so all you do is you set up your center line here by measuring this out and I know it's a 60 inch tub with one inch of drywall so I'm looking at twenty nine and a half inches is my center line okay draw that on the wall and the way we do tile layout is actually it's a physical way we do it we take our tile and we lay them up now in this case I have about two inches left over which will work perfect all right the other option is to start right there about 1/2 tile and then I go over like this and then I'm finishing over here with almost a half but an inch shy of 1/2 so now I know that no matter what I'm doing with my design I'm in good shape okay if I follow that up I'm gonna have that situation there and that's gonna be perfect so in every situation along this wall I'm not going to get a sliver and the opposite is true here consider what it looks like when you wrap it around the wall so we'll start off the centerline and of course we're gonna be a little bit short now we're going to be cutting 2 inches off we don't want to start this row with a 2 inch of cut that's not a good look because it'll be looked like it's almost a full tile we should start the next tile as a full tile okay now here we have the centerline of the tub my my tile isn't on that centerline when I do that so now I want to take a look at this 2 tiles is more than I need because I'm also gonna have a door casing okay so what we want to do in this case because they're doing half offset is we want to move our centerline if you will right on the middle of the tub it's not enough it won't make it all the way to the casing of the door so here what I'm gonna suggest is we're gonna go like this we're gonna measure off and put a mark for our door casing and in this case we're gonna go with 2 and 1/8 it's a very standard building casing if yours is bigger then make that mark now we're gonna measure from here to that mark it's 32 inches so 16 is actually the middle okay right here and we're going to use that as our center line on this wall on the other side we'll do something very similar but we're going to be allowed to go a little bit further okay so we can go with a full tile and half tile over here and then we're going to do that on this side just to keep things simple so we don't have so much cutting is we will lay out two full tiles okay and then we will just go with a half tile full tile half tile and we use a decorative edge that's it so this side we don't have to do any configuring at all it doesn't matter if our grout line here is a little bit different than the other side because they are on opposite walls okay so you're gonna be fine so now we've got a configuration use the center line approach whenever you're wondering if you're going to have issues because like five or seven here that's my tile I'm gonna have cut off over here every single time on the left side only and over here I'm going to be building with full tile half tile and that will keep things nice and clean and simple and it will all look amazing whoo so once you've got your configuration worked out and you're happy with where your starting and stopping and you know how you're going to finish one it's time to start setting your tile and the way we do that is we take our laser level and we check all our corners for the high and low point and here we are looking at 3 and 7/8 3 and 7/8 3 and 7/8 got a move so I can see my laser 3 and 3/4 and then a little bit shorter than that this wall ok 3 and 1/2 over here so that means that this wall and this the beginning of this wall are the same height that's my low side so this is where I'm gonna start tiling ok and then I'm going to grind the bottom of these tiles to fit all the way around knowing that I'm gonna finish it with a silicone if you're grinding off 1/8 to 1/4 or 3/8 of tile okay you're not going to notice that visually when you're finished that's not a concern what you will notice when you're finished is if you start on the high side and you end up with a gremlin over here because then you're gonna have to use a massive amount of silicone to close that gap or you're gonna see silicone and grout and that will just look ridiculous so here we go now we've got all that sorted out remember once you get the first line done the rest of it it's just Lego okay so it's all about taking your time and being patient sorting out all your details before you start and then you won't run into trouble once you start mixing cement and putting it on the wall all right so instead of just leaving you with the information how to lay it out and then letting you figure it all out on your own from there we're gonna do the first row and demonstrate the process that you're gonna have to go through like I said once you get the first row down the rest of its just like Lego and it's rather simple now um many of you know I do a lot of shopping at the Home Depot not because we're sponsored but because it's close and I've gotten spoiled with it we didn't use to have much competition in Canada until alo showed up a few years back so over a lot of years is pretty much the only game in town so I'm gonna show you this little clip system these are some spacers and these are some flat clips that are great for small tile okay there are other clips I've got a curved bottom and they're designed to really move tile around in weird situations but if you're gonna use a leveling clip system from the Home Depot make sure you get the ones with a flat bottom not the curved bottom for wall tile or it will drive you crazy now I'm gonna just forget the cement I want to show you this when I hold this tile flat against the wall and they come in contact with the tub and then I go you'll see that it falls okay because the back of these tubs they have this little scoop curve they can be a little maddening so if you have access to the map I ultra light cement or some other lightweight compound or something that'll bond to the waterproofing membrane that we rolled on we'll hold the tile to the wall so it doesn't slip that'll really be helpful otherwise you're gonna have to do this okay I need some of these clips now no these clips are big wedges designed to close up all the tile lippisch okay when you're installing wall tile but you'll see the very end here is very thin and it has a flat section and that can be used just down here to make sure that everything doesn't come in contact with the tub because there's this scoop we have a little bit of flexibility but you'll notice my line doesn't have to be on the edge it's just there as a visual aid really and now I've got a sixteenth here and a little bit more here so and just slowly push down on this side until I get that scoop happening and lift up this side a little bit until my line is very consistent across that tile okay now I love it no because it's sensitive and because of the scoop what I'm gonna suggest is you tile the first row and if you don't have an ultra light cement that I'll hold the tile in place then you let it dry overnight before you come back and bill the rest of the shower once you've got your first row all perfectly level let the cement set up and bond so that you can build on a nice level surface then you're not going to run into problems later I need to do is take your little clips knowing that you're half off set put one just to the each side of the center line so that when you come back tomorrow your clips are in place here we go and we'll just do that on every one of our our tiles until the whole first row is done and then we're good to go this one is short I need it cut to do your best to be as accurate as you can with the limitation and maybe the wall I may be part of the tub depending on the situation here so pay attention to what you're to company running into and then remember you have mercy you've got the thickness of the tile on the other side plus cement that'll be built out so if this is the actual you actually want to cut just a little bit more off okay give yourself a little bit of mercy there now on the other side by the way it's really handy to have somebody around who can do all your cutting for you here we go we're gonna see if because of that scoop on the tub if I'm gonna be able to get this one installed at all I think I'm gonna be able to make that work okay so I have just enough mercy I'm gonna be able to tie all this one as well without cutting now if you wanted to see my cutting process you're gonna have to watch another video for that I'm a big believer in using a grinder and a simple scratch tool all right so before we set our tiles into place we're gonna put our clips on remember you're putting the clip in position so that when I put my next row on it'll pick that up now you see how off for this look how crooked that is all right this is where these yellow things come in so handy whoa there we go it's a very consistent line now that's a good point so my son is doing my cutting for me today I asked if he could use the sharpie instead of my black licorice from Milwaukee and like it doesn't really matter the brand they're both permanent markers but you see this is a glazed tile so it comes right off so if you have a glazed wall tile which you probably should in a shower anyway this is great because you can make a mark and now that's not gonna wash off on a wet saw very easily and it's really easy to read versus trying to put a pencil line on that that's why I like using these these are great okay so he's cutting that tile we've already decided that we're gonna be going full tile over here as well so I'll get started with that one and you can see that this doesn't really take a whole lot of time even when the tubble does not tub is not level it's not a huge process to go through this now if you're wondering why I'm not worried about cement down here it's because I don't need to be concerned about putting cement where the tile flanges it's so recessed what I'm gonna be doing is I'm going to be finishing that one off with a silicone anyway we'll just leave that there for now until the other tile gets in place but what I am gonna do is use this yeah that's a good we're gonna measure our cut well you gotta be ridiculously you gotta be joking me it's exact right to my tune innate line that is crazy we've got that one cut now awesome thank you all right now the only trick you have to remember here folks just keep the cut line in behind the closed joint don't make that mistake and have that showing okay here we go now we got the cut line going into the corner I'm gonna get our spacers in before we press it to the wall too tightly remember because there's a half tile on the next row you're going to need to put a spacer for the other side of that tile as well same thing here this tile is going to be a half tile so it needs to and then one more to pick up the full tile that goes there perfect thank you now let's just double check this with a sixteenth grout line Wow that is awesome no that doesn't happen every day but when it happens it feels good because now I know that I can use half tile all the way up that wall and so I can set my cutter off and say go make ten tiles cut in half because I know we're gonna need them exactly like that all right here we go and we're just using a little bit of space just to get it off the tub and there's a practical reason for this all right I'm not just doing it to level I'm using these spacers as well because acrylic tubs that you're gonna be buying out there today when you fill them full of water there's a lot of deflection they move okay and you don't want your tile sitting directly on it or it will squeak as people get in and out of the tub yeah remember this is gonna be a half tile here you're gonna need to get that spacer in there as well all right now it's a great time to go around and make sure everything is just the way you want it this is the time to be picky folks I'm not happy with the way this is sitting whoo yeah we got to come around the other side so here we go now we got screw and then wallboard so let's make sure we measure we measure to the screw here we go Madi when I put my tile right on the tub see my Merc hits that tub the tile I was happening as I go to the back that's a lot higher than what I want it okay so what I know is I'm going to need a little bit of grinding work done here and we use a 4 inch grinder with a continuous rim blade that just chews through this stuff like butter and what I'm going to do is I'm going to take in the account that I'm taking that extra eighth off and I'm going to go from that down to zero just by turning my wrist and creating mmm nothing to it all right we're gonna start with that cut that grind that and then we will stick that one in all right so my son just told me well all right way to show them the technique that takes years of practice so or you can just measure you know your 3/16 is the zero and you can take another tile and line it up and I'm pretty sure most homeowners are smart enough to figure this one out but you can just use that in here get the same result listen to the lines a lot straighter than your cutting crap out there I mean it rubs off max but usually it takes a little bit of your skin with it right all right here it comes the moment of truth so we've got our end cut and our slope cut into this now you will see that this tile we cut off a little bit more than we needed to it's not a concern because the amount that I cut is actually equivalent to the size of the bead of the silicone joint that I'm gonna be using and that's why it's always a safe place to start if you go with a 3/16 cut to maybe a quarter when you know you're gonna have an issue you'll always be fine no here we go now this is where the trick comes in because this little spacer it has steps on it okay see those ridges and the way it works is you put it underneath in your on the flat spot but when you start turning it left every time you hit another step it raises the edge of that tile okay I know sits there now it's actually too tall right now so that gap is gonna be easily covered with silicone so I know this tile is gonna install it just fine some cement well here's your option right you either cut the bottom of the tub to make it your first row tile level so that your niche can be installed level or you gotta wait to cut your nation until after you've started installing your stone and then match this being crooked as well it's funny because even though it's just a little bit crooked it really shows there's something about things that just aren't level that they just scream at you okay no back to our program need one here one there and one in the corner okay and for anybody who's watching this and you're not familiar with this kind of leveling system this just sits here and when when everything is done and dry it just it breaks right off this lease stays on behind the wall but what this does is you use these same yellow clips there and you cause compression to pull everything nice and tight that's the whole point of that system okay so what I'm gonna do now is leave this installed just temporarily and you'll see visually visually this this this looks okay but when this corner is raised up to where it should be everything is gonna look amazing we are this corner needs just a little touch there we go no that is perfect the back of this top is actually not level either so this corner is actually higher than this corner very interesting so that means that in this corner we're gonna need to take out that 3/16 and then on the other side we're gonna go up to a full quarter so we're going to just do this little trick that I showed you we're gonna have my boy grind that out I'm gonna just mark where the red line is and bring it over here translate you see how much taller it is it's another eighth of taller so what I'll do is I'll just take this line and I'm gonna go like this I'm going to line up my marker with my bent wrist then I'm gonna straighten my wrist as I come across there's my line there's my angle okay now one more thing to consider here and that is the edge of the tub when I come across will line up my spaces I don't want to just cut all the way across I have to stop at the edge of this tub okay [Music] all right take a quick second and rub all the extra off this is just to communicate with my cutter okay he's been with me on enough for these jobs he knows that that's gonna be the edge of the tub so I can just give them both of these no come back finished and we'll finish the video one of the things that we're gonna be doing here is you're gonna be using a edging on the tile so what I do take my knife and I'm just gonna clean this cement off the back of that time what I'm doing is I'm just getting rid of the cement there cuz my tile edge has a piece that slides in behind it's about an inch so you want to just clean the cement from behind the tile and if you're smart enough to think in advance don't add it to the first place now that is all we can do today all right we do not want to start building on this tile because the cement will not hold the weight and it'll all start to sloped into the tub and your lines will go to a disaster be patient and do yourself a favor don't run forward thinking you're saving yourself time and energy because you'll be ripping it all off the wall tomorrow morning now if you'd like to see how this project turns out check out the link at the end of the video for a reality my division episode give us a thumbs up if you like the content don't forget to subscribe if you haven't and by all means hit that little bell icon it'll give a little exclamation marks and they'll tell you yes you'll be notified if every time a video comes out from us which is every week Saturday night of 9 and we throw in a few extras now and again too don't forget to add your questions in the comment section below I'm a little crazy but I still answer those every single day we're here to help we want to see you succeed so we'll see you again soon in today's video I'm going to demonstrate how to install the subway tile with a decorative glass mosaic strip using my laser level [Music] all right for closing up our shower we're gonna be using four by twelve colossi a ceramic tile this is a brilliant product because it has lots of flexibility great style and easy easy easy to install as long we shouldn't get your first real level that is why it's very important to have your laser level handy I can't preach enough about this every tool that every homeowner should have in their in their toolbox so before we get started one quick tip make sure that you've peeled back your protective layer of plastic off your top lid you don't want to let that get caught underneath your tile or that will end up causing your problems down the road and always have a pail of water with a sponge handy I like to clean as I go it just makes my life a lot easier and if you're doing this professionally for people every time they pop their head around the corner and what see you working it is so encouraging for them to see the nice clean job site so the beginning of a tile job is always the same it's called mapping it out you need to think about how you're installing your tile now our basic direction here is to start with a 50% offset so it's a typical subway pattern just a offset from the stack in the middle so what we want to do is first measure our back wall off and put a center line on and this back wall should be 59 inches and so that should leave us at 29 and a half just right here so the process here is simple we just take a couple of tiles we start with a grout line on this underline and we work towards the outside and you'll see that we are left with about a half a tile that is brilliant and because we're staggering 50% every other roll will be half tile full tile and of course the same math if we start in the middle of the tile we'll be left with a full tile at the edge side so what I'm doing is I'm checking to see how level my wall is altogether and I'm going to be good there so if I use that as my starting row right there and then I cut a bunch of tiles in half I can start building the entire back wall from this corner off that line and that is brilliantly if you don't have a laser you can always just use a regular level of course this never lies and now okay so in this case the right side is pretty straight the left side actually opens up so this tells me that if I'm gonna go with half offset I should start in this corner and then whenever I get to my end and I have to cut a tile I can always cut it to fit without wrecking my pattern so I also set this up here you can see the laser line in this wall here max I'll get out of the way this is the laser level we're gonna use now this step is installed flush on the subfloor and the house it's got a bit of a dip so the tub isn't exactly level and that is not going to be a problem because this is the drain end you know I've got it set up for full tile here as I come around the corner you'll see that really soon BAM right there I'm already my line so the way I mapped this out and the reason I want the laser level here is I want to cut all of these pieces for the bottom row first to fit up against this laser level and then I can use my wedge spacers and make sure I got a perfectly straight line here before I start building the wall if you just start tiling you've got a little slope you're gonna have a hard time getting all your joints in the corners to line up because the tile will be sticking in every direction as it follows the slope if you don't start level you can't finish level it may not look bad to when you're sitting in here building it when you walk in the room after you're all finished it'll scream at you hey that's crooked we don't want that you know the easiest way to do this is just mark the walls okay and then you take a look at your laser level and you can put your tile - your laser level over here sorry in that wrong corner there and here and when you put that on the tile cutter you just line up the two lines on the cutting line score and snap so now that our tiles are cut and ready to build the first row before we get started we want to get our plastic edges on this will determine how what the actual outside measurement is going to be and really the secret here is just get a little something you can press that edging into alright we can attach the rest of this later there we go now we can just set up our laser starting down on the baseboard and you just push that over until it's exactly where you want it to be very nice now you can see the tile that we've chosen here has got a beautiful honeycomb on the back of it which means that I can go with 1/4 by 3/8 trowel this puts a really nice thick Ridge on they're great for collapsing those ridges and getting good adhesion and the secret here is push that tile shut without a grout line all right and then you slide it into position now I've got a couple of different spacers here today I've got a 1/8 spacer I like subway tile with a little bit of gap a little bit of grout and I just look at it's a lot more classic and then these are wedges all right so these wedges are designed to help get this perfectly level and also create a little bit of a gap between the tile and the acrylic tub remember acrylic when it gets full of water is going to be bending around a lot so you don't want to have it in direct contact because it'll kind of squeaking so we just put a wedge underneath create that airspace then we can remove laid it before we go out and you can also use it to level it and then establish your space with your spacer for your grout line there we go it is that simple okay so because we have our edging already installed no I like to take these little wax bits off as I go I don't like to leave it until it's all the tiles install in case there's an accident now I'm gonna be putting it tight to that and then marking - to grout lines right hopefully mat that'll cut okay I got my son helping me today he's doing all the cutting yeah no pressure one of the reasons why I think subway tile is a perfect do-it-yourself job is because the the tile is small enough and because it's made of ceramic it's very easy to cut and you can use just a score tool which puts a scratch and then pressure it always snaps right on the line mat Justin did this one and that's a really nice cut that is really clean all right you can do that that tool is available at the building store for about thirty dollars that's awesome you can always get a wet wet saw as well but for this tile I would use the score tool almost exclusively and then for around this area just get a ceramic bit for your four inch grinder and you can just use that wheel and cut any decorative hole you need and that's about the only tools you'll ever need for this there we go now you see that the edge of this tub has a bit of a raise to it is that I'm not level and that's what wedges are for so I'm going to get that line level first based off my laser and then I'm going to use my wedges to raise the rest of my line so the reason I switched to laser level for doing my tile is because I would end up getting might my level so filthy I'm always laying it in the mud and I couldn't get a proper line unless I clean all the cement and start it over again it drove me nuts so this way I have a perfect line all around the entire tub not just from corner to corner and that helps make sure the job is perfect every time okay so we just set up our laser level down here to have a look right on the edge of the tile and so down here I am just just hovering above the stone okay and then over as I come across as the your I will play tricks on you I think that was level it looked good it was a straight line but it wasn't a level line so this is why these wedges are so awesome I can actually make this adjustment until it is absolutely perfect all right so now we have our first row well established I'm pretty happy with what's going on with it Oh spacer come in remember we already checked with their laser level so we know that straight up is perfect I cut a bunch of towels in half so we're going to just start with a half tile there so now what's it like building a pyramid right get your cement on the wall and this is going to be a mess here then when you're using it adhesive so I always have that pale sponge handy clean as you go try to keep the extra cement how do the grout lines as much as I can just run your travel along there like that or even both your fingers okay what you're gonna do is just place them right on the tile first okay start with two rows so that's how I'm here so we just lift the tile drop in our spacers and because we've got the the road well leveled off just do the ends you don't have to put them everywhere let's just support the tile to keep it from sliding around okay and that's it now we want to straighten out our line here always put your cuts on the inside of course press it in lift it up and do the spacer system it where you need it I like to start at the bottom and then lift it up so I'm pulling the cement away from the grout line and then just to over and over and over again start tight to the tile okay this one slipped off the laser you can keep an eye on this and adjusted as you go after about a half an hour these tiles on the wall are not going to be able to move anymore with this type of cement okay so you got a little bit of time to play with this nice and tight and the reason you go nice and tight it's a great way to check to see if everything's square in level if I put this on nice and tight I got a huge gap I know if it got fixed something okay so we're just going to set the space up now for good measure once we have our line here established put these spacers back in - and that'll make sure that all of your grout lines all over the wall are uniform you don't have big gaps and little gaps opening up next to each other that always looks unsightly now during the introduction I mentioned that we're doing a subway tile with the glass mosaic so now it's time to discuss the glass mosaic and why it's necessary most of the tile that's produced today is produced under the assumption that you're having a 5 foot shower which is why these are just under 12 inches plus the grout line full five tiles across looks very aesthetically pleasing easy to Center easy to install plus they're also made at a certain height so that on a traditional 20-inch tub which is now the norm and a regular eight-foot ceiling it's just about a full tile at the top maybe a little bit more maybe a little bit less but nonetheless it'll finish well with either a little grout or a little grind and it'll look like a full tile after the silicone edge goes on what you need to know is what if your situation is a little bit different and it's gonna be just a sliver what if you end up with just one inch of tile left what if your house is a little short or you've got a bulkhead or you bought a shorter tub and the math doesn't work how do you fix that and this is what we do there are bazillion options of mixed mosaic tile different thicknesses one square foot sheets like this with a reoccurring pattern okay what you can do is you just follow the simple procedure and you can use your mosaic to make the adjustment on your finish before you get there so they measure down from your ceiling all right we're just a little bit over there under 32 inches so I check how is that gonna look well I'm a little bit over 32 inches to a full tile so the tile at the very top of the ceiling well we use this I'm gonna end up cutting them of this much off in this particular situation this tile and this tough work because I checked both sides already and on the other side it's perfect and on the side that's inside the house it's actually got a little bit of a gap so I'm gonna have a little bit of a cut vinyl around the top just like you did around the bottom because remember I have a square house and I went Bert and it fell in so now all I had to cut the bottom row in the tile to make a level the top will get cut to be level and it'll work out but if you had a problem with that and you were going from the 0 to 1 inch filler I'll guarantee you that 1 inch piece of tile would look like garbage so I'm gonna back this up one row of tile instead of the 32 I'm gonna go to 28 and a quarter and that'll give me a mile of the room that I need that's my mark and I want to make my mosaic that thick so now I would take my sheet and on the bottom I've got a thicker piece up here we've got a thinner piece I'm gonna say okay so I need a grout line if I use those it's too much if I go here it's too much if I go there it's just right okay what if I started this into the sheet that's not enough so that's what I'm gonna use we use the thick one two three four and then I've got a reoccurring pattern here thick one two three four so that means I'm gonna get two linear feet per sheet I bought a couple extra sheets because I know this usually happens and then we are going to put in that much mosaic tile all around so that we finish with a full tile and that is how you solve your problem this is a great way to fill in the differences if you're using large stone especially you can put in two bands if you want now traditionally we put it around five feet in the shower okay so stand in the shower measure up to five feet it's kind of like line-of-sight in the bathroom all right so when you look around the glass should be right in front of your eyes that's all you need to know about mosaic tile of course this is glass so cutting this can be a little tricky and maybe we should go to the saw and show you how to do that so I'm gonna demonstrate how to cut glass mosaic if you have a wet saw it's simple just set it on the table and slide it through but if you don't you're going to be using a grinder wheel and this is fine this is a nice porcelain grinder wheel the trick here is actually cut from the backside all right it reduces the the breakage and the chipping on the front of the glass and gives you a nice straight line and because I'm going into a corner I have to have a straight line so I'm just gonna eyeball a straight line off this shorter tile here [Applause] nope okay so I wanted what you'll see is that I'm not cutting through it I'm pressing down the middle of the tile and it's splitting and watch this right here you can see the grinder only came to this point and then Shh it cut right off okay we're going into a corner the other glass are come against it and then that is all you need to do you have to do one two three probably four of these cuts for the entire mosaic strip other than that the rest of these will fit together the way that it's on the sheet now in order to cut a hole in the middle of the tile and this is important because you're going to be putting your tub faucet here and the tub faucet may or may not be big enough to cover this plus the grout line and you don't want it to be a place where the water can get through so it's important to cut just enough hole for the pipe to come out what I'm going to do is I'm going to just lightly touch on all four of these lines okay and then I'm going to finish the cut from the back side you know if your watch carefully I'll show you how it's done and then when I'm done doing it I'll explain exactly how I did it alright so you'll see I've started the cut on the glaze and then what I do is from the backside I can see visually looking at this where the line is and I use the grinder and just make us just a quick line on the back of the stone and that translates all that information to the back of the tile now I cut through from the back side [Music] that gives me the ability to finish that cut without having the bleed cross-cutting right into the over the tile and my tub spoke connection I'll have no problem covering that okay so right now we're going to talk about the kerdi-band tea and this particular cement and why we're choosing this for our glass mosaic the funny thing is glass is usually heavier than ceramic relatively speaking and they come pre attached to the back of the sheet alright it's an adhesive now a lot of times these spaces that are in between this glass are different than the spacers that you're using on your wall so for instance we'll take one of these oops and here's my 1/8 spacer it barely makes it in there but if I try to put it in between all these tiles it actually doesn't fit over all these four joints this joint spacing is actually something like two-fifteenths instead of 2:16 it's a little bit strange so the spacers are useless I can't use them so if I'm building a wall like this and I put in my mosaic strip I can use a spacer on the bottom and I can stop there and I can wait till tomorrow to come back when it's dry or I can use the right cement that's gonna hold it up there even without spacers and it's not gonna slip you know it sounds ridiculous but when you go to the hardware store you're stuck you have usually three choices of cement there's a modified and unmodified the modified means it has a glue in it and then there's an ultra-light which is good for putting tile on a ceiling where I go for my tile products it has the entire line the entire map a line of everything that's available so I've got gray and white options I've modified and unmodified for five different kinds of tile regular thin set large format tile ceiling tile ultra light I mean if you can dream it up they've got the product there so when you're shopping for your cement if you get to a tile supply store instead of a building store you're probably going to be a lot more happy with your result and a lot more options so in something like this you can tile all the shower in a day or it can take an entire weekend now if you were to put two of these glass strips in there it could take you three days or you just buy the right cement for the job spend the extra couple bucks and finish it all off in an afternoon I'll let you be the judge now when I'm mixing cement generally speaking the first minute of mixing I want to have a little bit less product in there than I need just so I can make sure I can clean out all of the clumps that sit in the corners of course always add water first there we go now I know that dense soup is gonna be able to withstand all the rest of the strength that I pour in there [Music] [Applause] so you only want to mix this one so you don't wait in ten minutes where's you're supposed to allow it to set up and then come back and go oh I need more water because it's not gonna perform properly for you you just destroyed your cement so you want to mix it thin enough just to the point where when you travel it it holds the trowel groove but it's still sloppy okay that way and ten minutes from now when this is set it may be a little more firm but it's uh performed well on the wall now we bought this cement to use on our mosaic but because I like to be efficient I'm gonna do the rest of the wall with it because I don't like mixing just a little bit of cement in a bale just a little demonstration here ready this is this mint that doesn't sag there you go yeah I'm using a 1/4 by 3 is so that's a lot of cement on our good good adhesion but a 90% contact just by tossing it on the wall like that and it wasn't slipping anywhere great product this is the white cement it looks a little grey done but this is the white and the reason we picked the white is because the glass has just a paper on it and then all the edges are behind the sheet will actually bring that color for so if we use the dark grey cement your white glass is gonna turn a really dark grey on you we don't want that if we're gonna put the glass on and I'm just gonna make sure that my edge here is nice and clean and this is important when you're doing glass make sure that this edge here is nice and clean we're just gonna start in the edge here and the same as the other two I will start right on the base okay nice and tight and then I'm going to just lift it up and what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna use my tool to lift so I'm not pressing against the wall I'm just gonna give it a little bit pressure voila that's not moving anywhere when I put the tile above it I'm gonna get exactly the same result that's not gonna move anywhere either I'm gonna already put my grip line there done Frank so for some of these trickier places it's hard to reach you can't get your travel in and around this corner and because I was busy building that other wall first I've let this dry feel free to just add your cement to the back of the tile okay be real liberal here hold your travel out of about 75 80 degrees and then just run that off will end up getting the same thickness as is on the wall okay just like that do all sides of the hole all right take the extra cement off and then just fire it over there [Music] done okay so the only other thing it needs to know is this when you're done your tile work the next day you come back take all your spacers out all right take the wet sponge and force it in all the lines and clean them all out the cements that we're using here within 48 hours you can wipe them out pretty simply and it'll actually clean up a real nice without any tools or risk of damaging your tile also when you're doing the round the sides down the bottom of the tub you usually do that at the end of the job save some of this tea product okay from Matt Buy and use that down there too and then you can build backwards knowing that the tiles not going to slip in and make a big mess other than that patience patience patience keep your lines level get a laser level I can't stress that enough and you'll have a successful tile job too so if you like this kind of video make sure you like it ask all the questions in the world you like in the comments section below don't forget to check us out on Instagram we'll see you again next time [Music] before we get started we have to do the first course of wall tile because that's the way our design is going to function the best [Music] [Applause] what we've done is we just to our level off that corner because that's what we want to start our tile marked off our line and it's really quite simple because you want to have a good bond with the tile we're gonna take a little bit of our cement right on the wall now this is more like you've all seen back butter on TV they like to use the phrase back butter cuz it makes me sound so intelligent so here's me looking back butter in the wall I'm gonna actually put the cement on the stone and I find this is a much easier way to apply it I have a lot more control putting a lot of cement on this because I can lay it down a little bit I try to put it on thick like this on the wall it just gets everywhere it makes a mess of course we're looking for 90% adhesion with the tile is this strong you don't really need to worry too much about that sort of thing you know because of our slope we're gonna use these those spacers here I'll just lift up this corner so we get to the other side I took the time before I got started and I mapped all this out so I already know in advance what it is that I need to do and that makes my life simple you'll notice some when I'm installing the tile I'm not forcing it into the wall at this point we want to leave a little bit of build-out on purpose because when we do the rest of the surface of the wall we're gonna be using a leveling clip system so we want to have a little bit of space in here for that and I'm gonna have a little bit of Mercy built in until I get a few tiles in and then I can apply my pressure where I think I need it this side has to come up a little bit so in this case because of the contoured floor and because the house is never level I'm doubling the clip over here and then we just got a single back in this corner and the last piece doesn't even need one in the corner because it's that good here we go our tile is lined up nice and flat we're all prepped up and ready to go 1/8 grout line okay [Music] let's get this down here that's my horizontal [Music] then we need to use the clip so this is why don't push it on Vince the wall real quick [Music] just give it a little bit of a lift but it was a big piece of orange toast here now the reason I'm going this direction I'm not finishing this well it's because I'm going to have this stone going in behind this one because when I get up to the shelf I want them to come emerge from behind that corner and go around I don't want to be having outside cuts makes sense so if I have this tile first and then I come in this way then I'm gonna have an outside cut sitting over top of the stone but by putting this one all first then I have a nice clean edges so we're gonna finish this side first and then we'll measure and we'll cut the stone that goes with [Music] [Music] this is a rectified tile rectified hoarsely and does not expand and contract I could regular ceramic or regular porcelain so you can go with almost no grout line very similar to marble it's one of the benefits that marble had of all those years well I usually only rich people used it for instance this particular particular company the other end of stock rude okay this tile here was actually purchased end of stock that was gorgeous designer stone the reality is that the way the manufacturers are in the world today they make a certain amount of square feet we put it on a container to ship it over here and then they make a different kind of stone they're not making the same stone that stay on the shelf for months and years at apartment so when you go to a tile store ten years ago you use be able to go back a year or two later they still have the same stone nowadays if you go back in six months it's gone it's not even clearance anymore it's just gone so designing your bathroom you have to be a little proactive when you find something you want just buy it you can always bring it back for this stone because I'm only putting the big stone across the bottom today I didn't bother setting up a wet saw this is gonna be hidden so I just pulled out the old grinder with my porcelain bit today is all about getting prepped for tomorrow when we do the wall [Music] so for tiling there's a few things you need to know one is you have to have an idea of where you're going to start so we usually start on the back wall and you can start in two ways you can start with your tile in the center or you can serve with your grout line on the center line and those are really the only two options you have and so what you do is you kind of just map it or figure out are you gonna have a large piece or a little tiny slower if you have a sliver then you change from center line on the tile to a Center grip and that will do the math to split to two large pieces finishing a set of slivers now most tile is manufactured so that it finishes pretty much a full piece on the back of a standard tub that's not the hard part it's more than the size of you know what kind of pattern you're gonna use where you're gonna start and stop the wall here we have an overhang on a ceiling so we're kind of stuck that's our finished point so we're not sure exactly what's gonna happen with that so we'll just do a quick visual map here and we're gonna end up with about a third of a tile left over so I don't want that third of the tile on the outside so when we do this side wall we're gonna start on the edge and work our way in and I'd rather leave the cuts all on the inside wall that'll make it look pretty now we just applied this membrane twenty minutes ago and because of the nature of the science of this non-modified cement I'm allowed to tile right over top of a wet waterproof membrane wall now that is something that most products don't allow you to do one of the reasons why I love using a shooter so much because even though I'm only working here alone today there's no trying to do the demolition install the new tub do new water supply build a new shower Firdos waterproof it and it still got enough day length entirely if I was using any other system would be a three-day job instead of a two days these are just little tile spacers I use them to keep all the lines consistent I like like things being consistent so I'm gonna use these even though I don't need to this means I don't have to move my position never change my my viewpoint all the time so this is just a standard offset pattern 50% so half over nice and simple it's very pleasing to the eye and this is one of these situations where you're gonna maybe be in a situation where you don't have the right tool for the job if you go to your local hardware store they will rent to you tile cutters of all the pre-shape sand sizes whether it be wet saws or just a scratch tool you're doing a small simple tile like this you can always buy your own tile cutter they started about $30 and generally speaking work pretty well as long as you're not getting into some really hard stones or our large porcelain that's too big for the machine then you should be okay what do you thing is these tiles are not very thick and they're ceramic they're not porcelain but I'm laying them in cement with an amazing adhesion so the strength of this wall is not going to be in the tile it's gonna be in the fact that it's been cement [Music] so we're all finished with the tile installations been a long day but worth it now all we have left to do tomorrow is we come back in remove the spacers clean out all the excess cement wash down the tiles grout have lunch and put a fan on it for a couple of hours then we can come back in and do our finish silicone seal and screw on the finished ribs I figured this about another three or four hours work left to do so day and a half not bad quick turnaround well listen thanks for watching the compilation video if you made it this far you must have been intrigued glad to have you on to the ride if you haven't yet give us a thumbs up and ask some questions in the comment section below I will answer those questions myself I have vowed to do this and I'm going to keep doing it it doesn't matter how long it takes and don't forget to subscribe to our channel if you haven't now if you've liked this kind of information we have a playlist with compilation videos in it covering different subject matters and if you want to see how these projects turned out can see them before and afters we have those in our reality renovation series there's a playlist for that too so go ahead and peruse the channel check it all out and we will see you again next time [Music] you

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 1,142,487

Keywords: home renovision, renovation, bathroom renovation, jeff thorman, construction, diy renovations, renovations, do it yourself, diy, instructional, hrv, shower, bath, tile, tile installations, glass mozaic, subway tile, thinset, clip system, leveling system, ceramic, porcelin, tile installation, how to tile, bathroom tile, porcelain tile, how to install tile, how to install ceramic tile, how to install tile in a shower, wall tile installation, tile wall, tile install, large format tile

Id: FsiPWPBv744

Length: 68min 28sec (4108 seconds)

Published: Sat Dec 15 2018