3 Combos to make your Mini Bike / Go Kart Faster!

hey guys it's louis here today i'm showing you three different ways to go fast with three different builds all right so we have a stage one a stage two and a stage three your stage one is no bullet parts very budget friendly very very easy for beginners you don't have to be mechanically inclined um the best bang for your buck uh stage two is a mild bullet part build so basically the stage two kit you get from like go power sports let's say so the billet rod flavio um 265 cam 22 pound springs and all those mild parts um stage three is a full out race motor for drag racing or go-karts or whatever you want to do i'm going to start out with the stage one now with the stage one you're gonna get between 35-65 miles an hour and i'll show you why um at 6 500 rpm and i'll also show you why so this is the combo for the stage one now i have two combos i have this combo and i have another combo that i didn't write down i'm going to tell you after this so stage one consists of predator 212 cc or tilts and 212 hemi or non-hemi now if you're at harbor freight i'd personally pick the non-hemi up and put in your cart um non-hemi has lighter valves lighter rockers the whole valve assembly is a lot better than the hemi um the retainers on that hemi is automotive style so it comes with split split keepers and all that versus the hemi which is kind of the the style where you push on with your thumb and all um it will work but i personally prefer the non-hemi because the valves are a lot lighter you're going to rev more you're going to get more rpm out of the same valve spring so for example a heavier valve assembly is going to take more spring pressure to control it versus a lighter assembly thus the lighter assembly is going to rev more that's why i have 6 500 right here and between 6 and 6 500 so with the hemi you're going to get 55 to 6 000 rpm with the 18 pound springs with the non-hem you're going to rev up to 6 500. um like i said because the valve assembly is a lot lighter takes less spring pressure to control it um governor delete um this is what i want to talk about you can either disable the governor from the outside or completely remove it now you can either do something like this here's an example the governor the gear is still inside all i did was notice that coil back back there right behind this lever right there you put a zip tie through the coils and you tighten it up that's all your governor is your governor isn't the plastic gear inside it's that little return spring right there um when your governor kicks in that spring stretches the coils stretch if you zip tie it and that coils don't stretch it keeps your throttle open and that's all your governor is the second way is completely removing it for example this is a stage one this is exactly what i'm gonna show you guys on that stage one except this has a ported head that's all completely stock internals um here's the uh throttle assembly after you move the governor do a little bend right here so the arm doesn't pop out here's completely removed um it's a little return spring that's really about it all right high flowing header like that's three three-stage exhaust um no we need pipes so uh you know those small id pipes get rid of that intake adapter and filter very self-explanatory a jetted pilot in maine this is very important also if you're ordering a stage one kit from gold power sports they're only going to send you a brass main uh which is you know the main jet that goes under your emulsion tube you need the pilot jet your pilot is basically this black plastic piece underneath your outer screw that controls your idle that controls when you gun it off the line and it controls when your throttle is closed so for example if you do a pull and you close the throttle that's your pilot right there delivering fuel to your engine if your motor pops when you let off the throttle you have a lane pilot if you go to gun it off idle and it kind of bogs it's more than likely lean um there's some some symptoms right there second is 80 pound springs this is not a must but it's very very important it's going to help you reach higher rpm and higher mile an hour highly recommended and the last thing which is personally i think is the most important thing is your gear change now you can run 35 miles an hour and you can run 65 miles an hour that's in your gear change and your tire height now you can run 35 miles an hour you can get there quick or you can run 65 it'll take off a little bit slower but you're going to gain that mile an hour up top all right here's an example this is with 6 500 rpm right um if you're not running 80 pound springs instead of 6500 it'll be around 5500 okay so take around 10 15 miles up 10 15 miles off the mile an hour so you have 11 inch tire you have 13 you have 14 you have 15 all the way to 19. this is the same gear ratio now your gear ratio is basically the higher the number on the gear ratio the more torque the less the number the more top end right but the more top end the less acceleration you sacrifice so here's an example with the same exact gear ratio and here's the difference with the tire height between mile an hour so the shorter the tire the faster it'll go it'll get off the line but it doesn't carry much speed up top right so 11 inch tire you get 42 and a half miles an hour with 6 500 rpm 13 inch tire you get 50 all the way to 19 with a 19 you get 73.4 miles an hour and we're like how does that make sense a shorter tire doesn't carry much distance as a taller tire a taller tire has more circumference thus clearing more distance covers more distance i don't know if that makes sense but a taller tire is better for mile riding if you're like one of the miami guys and they ride for miles miles miles um towel tires gonna help now you can get the same result with a shorter tire you're just gonna have to gear the shorter tire for way more top end so you're gonna have to throw more gear on it does that make sense that's very simple now the second combo for stage one again no bullet parts i personally like the hemi bottom end with the non hemi head okay the heavy bottom end has a flat top piston non-hemi head lighter valves a little bit smaller chamber only by one cc um combine that with a 9 000 head gasket and you have a very very good very fast combo right there all right port the head 18 pound springs a mikuni a pipe um it's a little bit sketchy um you're on the you're on the uh side where you can blow this up but you know it's a very very budget friendly build it's very cheap if it blows up what do you have like almost 200 on that motor you pay almost 100 per flywheel alone so personally i've done it before um 100 worth it and i like that combo over the regular stage one but that's if you want to do that and if you have like a class and a go-kart or something where you can't run billet parts and you want some good combos the second combo is what i personally would run but the first combo would run just just fine here's the stage two now this is the stage two kit you get from gold power sports right so basic rod flywheel to 65 cam 22 pound springs um here's a stage two i safety would run between 45 to 90 miles an hour between seven and 8 500 rpm now again this depends on what head you have and what valve springs you can run 18 22 or 26 pound springs i would not run any higher um especially on 265 cam you don't need anything more than that um now if you have like a 274 275 285 cam 308 292 and all that then yes you're gonna have to step up your valve spring but um the basic stage 2k order is going to come with valve springs and everything you need to basically install so here's the stage 2 combo stock board stock stroke 2 12 cc flywheel 32 degree timing rod this is going to depend um if you're not ordering the kit and you want to um build your own motor get the ride separate and all that i recommend you take your head off measure how far your piston is in the hole so for example if your piston is 20 thousandths in the hole you get a plus 20 rod right a plus 20 rod is a longer rod thus it pushes the piston closer to your deck so it gets the piston flush at deck right um that's why you see a plus 40 plus 20 rod um that's what the number means the longer the rod the higher it's going to raise the piston up all right your piston optional um stock pistons will run phenomenally um you don't need a hundred dollar y square piston stock pistons will run just fine lifters stock um i don't see a point billet lifters at all um gx200 lifters work perfectly too stock lifters from 212 work perfectly too now push rods um i've ran stock i've been a couple i've had some long lasts a long time um you can either get chromoly or run stock chromoly is a lot safer again take your push rod measure the length of it and get the same exact size now if you're milling your head let's say you have a hemi head right and you know that head 50 thousands you subtract 50 000 from your push rod length and that's your new push-up length right so the shorter so the more you mill your head the shorter it's going to close down so the more you melt the head the more that head is closer to your piston thus it's pushing the head down if that makes sense so you need a shorter pushrod to make up for that for that material you just milled off so a ported head now this is very very important if you have a stage two billet part build and you don't have uh ported head you're basically wasting your time okay valve springs again match it to your cam if you have a a mod 2 cam you don't need 60 pound duals okay so just do some research um with most 365 cams the 265 hot game they're all basically the same 20 22 to 26 pound springs is phenomenal to get you right where you want um the cam you have mod 265 cs grind uh 308 these are all very mild cams the 308 is personally my favorite mild cam very very easy on the valve train and you can run it with 26 pound springs and you can rev it up to close to 9 grand so it'll rev up to 8800 okay um carb optional you can run a mikuni nothing smaller than a 22. okay fuel pump um this is not a must but if you're hoarding if you're holding the bike wide open for a while um and the motor is running a lot of lift um and it needs and if you're not getting them all now or it's running lean up top then you need a fuel pump all right and you can run that from the pulse off the valve cover or a pulse off excuse me off the intake all right venting this is very optional you don't have to do it um most guys think it looks cool but it does help now venting only helps with relieving crankcase pressure right so a lot of pressure's built up in the bottom end from the piston going up and down so the piston creates a positive crankcase pressure as it moves down right that crankcase pressure builds up and if you don't relieve it it can blow a seal so your oral seal on the clutch side or the flago side um so if you have a built motor like this this is a 2.8 2.8 tilt and stroker notice how i um vented the side cover to the head and then the valve cover goes straight to the cat strand and i removed my baffle okay now you do have to keep an eye on the on the oil level um just because it will empty a lot of oil because you removed the baffle now this is going to relieve a lot of pressure it's very very good for making power it won't necessarily make power it'll free up power it's just easier for the crank and assembly to spin through without all that pressure and it's good for oil circulation because it moves um the oil from your bottom end to your um valves springs and uh rockers head gasket i would not run a 9000's head gasket with a built motor right so on a stage one you can get away with it with a stage two um at least eighteen thousands you wanna shoot for thirty thousands um clearance between the head and the deck right or the piston right so if your piston is flush at deck shoot um you can get a 27 000 mls head gasket or run the thick firing head gasket now if you want a lot of compression mill the head down a lot and run a thicker head gasket don't run a thin head gasket with your piston flush attack because it's a very very high chance that your piston is going to slap your head okay all right here's an example of 8 500 rpm again this is the same chart i made 11 to 19 inch tire same gear ratio and here's your mile an hour very very simple okay um if you don't understand this like a go-kart gearing chart and it'll tell you like for example a 12-tooth clutch a 70-tooth clutch i mean the 72-3 it'll tell you what gear ratio that is so the higher the ratio the more torque the lower the ratio the more top end but the less um but the more acceleration you're gonna sacrifice here's your stage three this is all drag racing high tech build um there's some really good information here um have you seen anybody talk about this so hope this helps now if you're serious drag racing this can range from 50 miles an hour to 100 again it's all gonna depend on your gear your rpm is gonna range between nine to ten five um ten thousand five hundred rpm yes so if you're running a serious drag racing build i would not run a stock board you can i'm not saying you can't but personally if you're running um like a drag racing serious drag racing setup i would not run anything um under a 2.815 to 0.835 board right um if you're running top end i would recommend a big board non-stroker if you're running a drag racing let's say an eighth mile i'd go 2.8 stroker or three inch stroker right um you can even you can even run so basically a stroker is going to get you off the line it just is not going to rev that much right um a bigger bore will make more power than a stroker a stroker just helps with torque right so if you're running top end and you're looking for as much like let's say miami guys they ride wide open for a long time they try to get as much mild as they can i would recommend a big board non-stroker right so d stroke it it's going to help you rev more it's going to get off the line a little bit slower but it's going to make a lot of top end power all right um some stroker cranks will limit your top end okay just because the stroker crank um is going to limit the rpm all right you can get a cash stroker crank like they have clone um stroker cranks that are cast they have the sugar crank from tilton um which is what i have in my 236 cc right there or you can get a billet arc now i heard a lot of bad things about the arc strokers that they can crack and all that i've never personally used one so i can't really tell you um to either buy or not because i can't afford one but that's just what i heard so take my word with a grain of salt um cam nothing under 300 lift now 292s are good two some 285s are good too um with ratio rockers but um if you're seriously drag racing and you need a big can okay um you don't need a high duration cam if your head flow is good that's just just clear that before i get into it all right now your cam i'm not going to tell you what to buy because there's so many out there i could tell you to get this and that and it might not work for you so talk with your builder um you know step up the cam though and that also depends on your head your head flow which i'll show you here in a second all right all right so your head big valve head at least 90 cfm minimum right a big bore stroker is going to want to breathe a lot so 90 cfm minimum valves of course stainless they have 3234. most of the 32s are off their market um you can get them on like mostly anywhere um the 34 intake is custom and you're going to have to try to find it for your exhaust if you're running 25 or 28. uh your chamber for drag racing between 11 and 14 cc if you're running an 18 cc chamber and a drag motor basically wasting your time okay um ratio rockers all right now most people are like well i'm going to get a 1.3 ratio rocker with the biggest cam i can find right but they never have their head float now this is what i wanted to show for example let's say you're running a 308 cam a 1.2 rocker times 308 is 396 lift a 1.3 rocker times 308 will get you 400 left right now don't look at that anymore these numbers right here you have hundred thousands of fifty thousands two hundred thousands all up to five hundred thousands lift this is valve lift and this is your cfm this is your head flow right [Applause] you flow 40 cfm at 100 000 and you flow 105 at 500 000 now look at the biggest number where's the highest cfm right your highest flowing cfm is at 450 000 lift and you get 110 cfm right so why would you run 500 lift when you can run 450 and you get 110 out of that why would you lift the valve more and you're getting less cfm right that's why it's very important to get your head flowed so that's basically explaining your rocker um ratio to your cam right that's all it is bigger is not always better it's very very important you're basically guessing if you're if you don't get your head flowed you're basically guessing okay um fuel pump this is a must you can't not run a fuel pump so here the max left you should run is 450 left why because it's the the max cfm that's being flowed at that lift if you were to lift the valve to 500 000 you're just lifting it for no reason you're not getting any more flow you're getting less flow it's not going to flow less but you get you get the idea right so why lift it more when at 450 you're getting more than 500 thousands make sense now your fuel is gonna depend on your uh compression ratio now 11.5 to one is the minimum to run on 93 pump pump gas right um 13.5 to 1 is m5 um don't bother with m1 m5 will make more power you can run m1 but m5 will always make more power um you can run m5 and nitro x don't ask me about it i never tried it but i hear a lot of people um running that um clutch you can run polar stars junior dragster setup you can run a three disc two disc bully um smc clutch there's a lot of clutch options um this is just to clear things up but um there's a lot a lot of things you need to think about and take into consideration when building a drag motor or a serious racing motor um i can't answer every question here because there's a lot of a lot of information to tell and a lot of combos and a lot of things will work for this and not that so hope this cleared everything up um i'm sure there's plenty of more information out there but um this is all i have for now so i hope this helped and if you guys have any questions dm me on instagram which is vrom underscore bop room underscore bop or message me on facebook which is my name louis safar and i'll leave a link in the description for those too so um yeah guys make sure you like comment and subscribe i'm trying to hit a thousand subs yeah here's a shot for now working on stretch box outside customer bags more outside yeah more videos coming soon so see you guys

Channel: LS Mini Bikes

Views: 12,660

Rating: 4.9328537 out of 5

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Id: K_JE8YbF5c4

Length: 19min 6sec (1146 seconds)

Published: Thu Jan 28 2021