2018 Ford F150 2.7L Ecoboost Teardown. Engine Failure at 96K Miles!?

today's teardown has been a rather elusive engine to find doesn't matter what engine I post every single week I see someone asking to tear down a 2.7 liter EcoBoost out of an F-150 specifically and today we have a 2.7 liter EcoBoost specifically out of an F-150 in fact this comes out of a viewer's truck you guys rock like I don't even know how to explain my gratitude towards you viewers not only for watching these videos but you supply me with engines that I can't find elsewhere how can I say thanks other than continuing to make teardowns for you every single Saturday night or whatever day you view this on So today we're tearing down this is the second generation of two seven twin turbo Ecoboost V6 it's out of an 18 F-150 with 96 000 miles details I know you guys love those details now I actually have story on this as well this engine comes courtesy of Dean in Toledo Ohio thank you Dean and he said he was driving on the highway for about 250 miles and the low oil light came on the oil pressure light came on he pulled over it went away pulled back on the highway it came on and when he when he pulled back over popped the hood he realized that the dipstick was sticking out of the engine and the driver's side of the engine the left-hand Bank was covered in oil so he had it taken to the dealership the engine sounded not so great at this point and they condemned the engine so they don't know what happened to this engine I assume it still turns over because they were able to get all the flex bolt flex plate bolts out of it for the torque converter and outside of that we're gonna tear it down and find out what happened this version of 2.7 liter EcoBoost puts out 325 horsepower and 400 foot-pounds of torque it's quite a lot of power and torque for its displacement in fact I've known people to own these trucks and everyone had good things to say about how they drove and how reliable they were now I can't tell you whether these are really reliable engines or not because well this is the very first one I've had this is the very first one I've ever worked on in any capacity so I can't tell you with confidence that these are great or terrible having no experience that being said I can tell you it took me 30 minutes to pull the wiring harness off of this engine it's a lot of locking connectors a lot of locking connectors but I think that's pretty much par for the course for late model engines also why would I be pulling parts off of an engine before the teardown well I like my content to be interesting throughout from start to finish and as interesting as some of you may find harness removal and random bracket removal it's just not as interesting as tearing the rest of the engine down and I don't want my videos longer than they need to be so anyway speaking of let's get started the very first thing we're going to do is not to pull the spark plugs because I want to see if it feels like it has compression so we're going to turn the crank over or has some compression let's get some better leverage here it doesn't feel great I feel compression but I also feel bad stuff okay let's pull the plug to see what they look like uh oh already first bolt come on now [Applause] what are we to do here it looks like the threaded insert is spinning in the valve cover so blue let's just see if we can do this hey there we go see there's that insert not off to a great start [Applause] well I don't see anything too suspicious here nothing's bent their OEM Ford plugs they're actually pretty clean looking I don't know I don't see any problems yet now without plugs I'm going to turn it over again we're going to see if it changes how it feels oh it shouldn't take that much force oh uncle Rodney you still here the next thing I'm going to do is uh well there's a there's a lot of stuff on this engine so I guess I'm armed with an eight and I'm just going to start trying to get down to the intake manifold yeah yeah that seems like a good plan let's just start zipping some baits out and see where that gets us hey that's loose now there now that's out of the way and that is will you listen I just want you okay you can just hang out down here it's good enough I'll get this looks like an auxiliary water pump out of the way and now we'll start on the EGR system all right how are you supposed to do this oh I think I see oh but there's a vacuum line there's stuff there we go now I don't really know what's worth money on this engine because again first time I've ever torn one down so I'm saving everything and nothing nothing will get thrown yet now I think I can start pulling the intake manifold oh that was easy and that's weird it looks like the valve covers are also phenolic spacers for the intake plenum we're going to start with the right hand or passenger side valve cover I think that's I think it's going to come right off I know but we have blue on our side well you know what sometimes that helps well the nice thing is they give you areas to pry whether you should pry on them or not I don't know there's your uh that's where the intake manifold bolts to first time I've seen that well it looks quite nice in here for 96 000 miles just under 100k I say this thing was pretty well maintained there's virtually no varnish cam lobes look pretty good I don't see any valve train not where it's supposed to there's no hints yet in the chain plenty of tension I don't see anything wrong yet before we can get the drivers or left hand valve cover off we need to remove it looks like we're gonna have to pull this EGR cooler so let's get that out of the way nope [Music] okay there's the EGR cooler it's the smallest one I've seen I guess it's about the same size as what's on the uh 11 up Prius now we can get the boost control solenoid out of the way at least I think that's what this is or it's evap that might be evap and the dipstick no fight there appears to be drained nope don't want to get sick [Music] okay did I get them all I think I did don't you start okay much of the same story on this side I don't see any metal on that little bit of oil right there by that head bolt all the valve train looks to be in pretty good shape this looks clean timing guides appear to be in place I don't see anything wrong yet while it may already be dark outside but it just dawned on me that I need to pull the oil filter out so we can take a look see what the filter looks like oh that's bad well that's not bass boat paint that's uh that's some forbidden glitter this is kind of like an LS Cam Bearing I shouldn't have looked so let's see what the filter caught oh yeah that is all metal next we're going to start on the turbochargers start with the right hand bank first [Applause] how does this oh I see that's like a solid okay so this looks like one of the coolant lines because these are water cooled turbos and it also looks like it's a lot of fun to do inside the truck I'm sure this is a great time also don't really have the right right tool for this but we're going to make it happen yeah it's good enough now we'll try to remove the bolts that hold the turbo to the cylinder head without breaking them it'll be fine [Music] it was fine all right we need a little help from Blue here let's get these fittings out of the cylinder head there's oil feed nope we need something a little different okay now we just have this oh it's full of stuff okay okay all right we're fine we're fine we're just gonna you know what you know what I did this wrong because no one in their right mind would reuse this rubber hose we're going to cut it I know I know I know I could have sold that no no I wouldn't have sold that just like all the water pumps I won't sell that stuff buy it new wow we're in the neighborhood I'm gonna get this EGR pipe out of the way for you perspective used coolant hose buyers I'm sorry I am sorry okay I'm sorry I said I'm sorry [Music] so Ford decided to use a filter before the oil goes into the turbocharger and as you can see this is the right bank and it is pretty clean I don't see a lot of debris there but the passenger bank is loaded totally loaded with metal at least it didn't go through the turbo well it probably still needed through the turbo now the turbochargers themselves they look pretty good there's uh not a lot of in and out shaft play about normal it doesn't feel like the wheels hit the housing or anything although with the amount of metal going through these I don't know that I would really want to sell these as good after knowing how much metal was on those filters I don't really think that's the best idea they make good cores though the rest of the turbos look pretty good there's not a lot of play in the wastegate so that's good I guess Ford has that figured out next we're going to attack the front timing cover first we're going to start with the thermostat and water pump is that it no that's not it maybe that's it let's give it another Gander I don't really see anything else let's see does this come off pretty easy oh there's a there's a dowel right here on the timing cover and that's what we're stuck on that sounded good oh sweet I just poured that on my foot so it looks like an original water pump it really doesn't look like it's been leaking it's in pretty good shape it was also really easy to remove I'm glad that's not inside the timing cover this is probably worth hanging on to I'm not going to sell a used water pump next we'll remove the oil cooler [Applause] it helps when you get all the bolts out usually still full of coolant now the crank pulley bolt oh I need a puller for that one let's see will this get the job done [Music] success now we can start peeling these bolts out let's see are these tens yes I switched to a 13 millimeter that looks like what most of these bolts are [Music] foreign extra deep I'm probably gonna have to use a wrench on that looks like I've got a bolt here here and here and one here and one here it's a very long Bolt now if my calculations are correct all of the bolts are out I think see if I can get it off with old blue here uh that's that's a tight one it's really tight is there a trick to these like the uh three five the earlier three fives where there's something the thread in pushes it off of The Mating surface just a couple Taps that well it's kind of loose nope I get this off foreign this site unfortunately well this actually has a place perfect oh there's the inside of the timing cover it looks okay I don't see any issues there well I was gonna say everything looks good and then I looked at it it doesn't look good there's also a rubber belt in here which I I already knew that I knew this was going to have a rubber belt in it I don't know when they switched over to this I know the early the early two sevens were chain I guess that's probably 18's first year for this belt but there's some not good stuff going on in here so up top everything looks pretty hunky-dory all the guys are in good shape the chain looks good and then you get here a little bit of metal and this in the crevasses in this timing guide a little bit of metal there a little bit of metal on this one it's better as you get towards the top everything down here has a little bit of a sparkly tinge to it and then you get down here and it's all sparkles multiple colors present it's very fine material now I I'm not a big fan of this and I know you guys have explained why there's a rubber belt here a million times you guys that like this I all two of you I don't really see the benefit here I don't see that outweighing the risk but this is what they've done and now a moment of conversation about having a rubber belt submersed in oil most manufacturers have spent a ton of money to keep their belts dry but Ford and some other manufacturers have purposefully run a wet belt about a month ago I tore down a one liter Ford EcoBoost out of an ecosport and that utilizes both a wet timing belt and a wet oil pump drive belt like this in that tear down that belt came apart and the teeth clogged the pickup which starved the engine of oil that ruined the engine and it ruined the turbocharger and many of you were quick to jump to the conclusion that that happens when you use the incorrect oil that Ford specifies a certain type of oil which is meant for having a rubber belt submerged in it and it keeps the belts in one piece and it means that you can change your belts at the specified interval instead of prematurely and I understand that and that may very well be the case but I would I would say that Ford makes cars for the everyday person they make a wide range of vehicles and the cheapest one the ecosports utilizes something that takes special oil so if you're ecosport or if you're 2.7 liter EcoBoost is two quarts low on oil and you're in the middle of nowhere maybe it's eight o'clock at night and the only thing open is a truck stop what are you supposed to do what are you are you supposed to risk the health of your belt and put generic oil in are you supposed to drive your vehicle low on oil it's just a question now let's peel the timing system off of this engine release now I'm sure it's not under a lot of tension [Applause] it's fine it's fine guys yeah it's fine it's spring-loaded it's good [Applause] the chain rails have a little bit of wear it's actually got some some sparkles in it everything's painted in that bass boat paint still not bad that one's in good shape [Music] peel this chain off nice nice very nice tensioner number two well that wasn't as it's explosive not a ton of wear on that rail but everything has that sparkly finish yeah that rail is in really good shape now I don't know if we can get this out because oh yes we can oh maybe we can what is what is what is happening here what so I think I can walk this belt off of this since there's no tensioner okay that seems like it's on there really tight there we are then we can slide that off and then that off and then that off it's nice looking chain all these parts look like they're in good shape now we are going to direct our attention to the back of the engine and I need to remove this bracket it's not just a bracket this is actually a a crash part so when the engine gets pushed backwards in the event of a hard Collision this protects the oil pump which keeps it from rupturing and keeps fuel from spilling on the ground I think this is on pretty much any engine that has a fuel pump on either end of the engine at risk of rupture in an accident so now we're gonna get this line loose don't worry I was looking the other way I don't know if I can get any of these other fittings let's just start taking some bolts out and see what happens well I've got a 13 millimeter socket and we're going to town [Applause] I think I need to get these out of the way ah I see how this works it's nice they put these little uh keeper cords on there or what else you want to call them keeps these things from falling down in here when you're working on it it's pretty nice this comes off right yes this comes off there's a harness in here what what is hap what what is go what what the what okay all right Contraptions out now I can crack the rest of these lines loose now I can get on that other nut and high pressure pump is out and now we can pull this housing there we go the roller looks nice now it's time to remove the vacuum pump and what kind of Ford engine would we have if we didn't have some torques got to use the entire toolbox today looks like it's in pretty good shape now we're going to remove these coolant fittings it'll be easier than the hoses all right now we can pull some cams start off with the right hand Bank foreign oil in there well the journals definitely have had some debris run through them but they're not they're not awful there's not like piles of metal in them you can tell there's just a little bit of wear in there I think these would clean up I don't think they're ruined by any stretch in the caps are about the same they all have a little bit of a gritty feeling to them they might be able to be polished out I wouldn't condemn this yet and the camshafts don't look too bad that's a little bit of wear there yeah it's pretty bad there it's not terrible it's just that's probably the worst Journal now it is finally time to crack the head bolts loose and in case anyone's wondering they are 12.15 millimeter oh breaks yes we need brakes huh [Applause] thank you now I should be able to peel this off but I'm going to put a tray underneath it because I don't want this thing leaking all over me did I miss any bolts is there anything else keeping this thing down no I think I just need a little bit of help from Blue to break the seal I haven't run into this situation before I don't like it it moves too much to have any extra bolts in it just try pulling really hard a little bit of violence will get you what you need it's this corner down here I don't know in fact I'm actually going to grab a head bolt and lightly thread it in so it doesn't go flying off the engine when I get it out of that dowel there we are man that took a lot of force I don't know what you're supposed to do besides pry on it oh I see bad stuff well um this doll right here man foreign gasket looks good all right all right who can spot it everyone should be able to Spot It you can see this has shiny sections on the edges of the crown and that is from making contact with the combustion chamber with the cylinder head and the only way for that to happen is to either have too long of a rod which is the other option is that there's no bearing left and if there's no bearing left it allows the rod to travel farther in the bore and then the Piston can make contact with the cylinder head and it looks like it also hit a valve right here so we have to do our test we have to see if everything passes here so let's start with that uh that's a that's a fail okay so I mean two-thirds this is kind of like how I did in High School uh there's definitely some problems with that cylinder there let's go look at that cylinder head so the rear two cylinders these don't look bad but when you look at this one you can see the head has been cleaned here and here from the Piston striking in now I don't think that hurts the cylinder head in this case although I'd be worried about the condition of the valves knowing that at least one of the valves looks like it made contact with the Piston there was a clean spot so I'm not quite sure it looks like right there that's the spot so I'm not quite sure if this is going to be a good cylinder head or not but I don't see anything too destroyed yet and this is something I really like to see these engines use both port and direct injection the direct injection gives you the benefit of higher compression the ability to run that higher compression and the port injection keeps the intake valves from getting gummed up requiring a regular service to keep those clean so that's nice to see on something like this now time for the other bank [Music] it's very similar condition on this Bank nothing is too torn up all the followers look nice they roll nice although this journal here is pretty coarse these caps have a little bit more wear than the other bank at least a couple of them do you and that one's pretty rough the cams don't look too bad but again there's they're definitely going to need some attention before you put them in something else some of these parts might be so cheap new that the attention they need might be more expensive than buying new parts brakes on [Music] all right I've got one head bolt lightly threaded in just because of my experience with the last head first we're going to try to get this side loose all right that side's pretty loose it's this front that's kind of a kind of stuck well maybe not that came up pretty easy that is very on there it looks like they leave you a slot back here to pry on but it's not it's not shaped right there we go it just took convincing well this side does look better than the other side I don't see any uh impact marks on any of the Pistons head gasket out of the way that's in great shape let's do our test oh I think that moved or maybe I turned the engine over I think I turned the engine over oh I think I see a problem all right I've got the crank pulley bolts back in it we're just going to turn this over I just want to make sure that my eyes who are not receiving me oh we're good we're good thought this one wasn't moving but we're good so now we're back on the other side and now that I can turn this over I want to show you how much this moves I that's a lot I think that's a lot more than two rod bearings stacked up and this cylinder head no impact marks everything looks pretty good now I didn't get a good shot of the bores before we flip this over let's take a look this side looks pretty good nice cross hatching a little bit of wear but not terrible on this side now this one's not down far enough in the board to judge the condition but that cylinder looks nice these two look pretty good now it's time to turn this thing over probably evacuate all of the fluid left inside so we can pull the oil pan this is a well you just just do something now it's time to peel the oil pan off and yes it is plastic and no I'm not a big fan but I understand that they are quieter they are they make engines virtually silent when they crack and let all the oil out I'm just I'm kidding I'm sure there's a valid reason it's probably costs that people decide to design engines with plastic oil pans yeah we're just going to peel this off and not even talk about it [Music] now can I just pull this off nah not even close put a little nudge here and it took a lot of force I don't know how you're supposed to get this off otherwise what oh that's sparkly well upon first glance I saw this and I went uh oh but then I dropped it but really that piece Fells falls out uh it goes between the pickup which is into the pan and the oil pump here so that that wasn't like that until I pulled the oil pan speaking of oil pans would you look at it there's so many sparkles in here it looks like it's a metal pan now I'm not quite sure how to get this off that's kind of got me perplexed are there bolts on the bottom no how am I supposed to access that explain it make it make sense all right we're gonna get this I think we're gonna get this off whoa whoa whoa there I don't know what I'm doing oh I broke it oh no that thing that's full of metal that no one would want to put in their engine is now broken but what's really interesting is I don't see a screen where is the screen we're gonna get this off I don't care what happens I'm not going to sell a used plastic oil pan and we are going to get this off this is the right tool for the job that seems like I might go to the hospital if that gets loose what the well you just it's like glued in I don't care how many pieces it's in it's coming out it's really loud but hey I knocked a piece of bearing material some bearing foil there we go see it just takes a little persuasion and there is in fact a screen see I couldn't tell that from looking at it and it is it's got lots of oh there's lots of metal that came out of that that was worth it in scrap alone so there's the metal that fell out of this thing there's what the rest of that pan looks like looks like anti-seize I mean the engine does turn over so it did its job and there's the screen in the pickup that's a strange strange way to go about it I guess the big Advantage here is that it's um cheap all right now it's time to play with the oil pump all right I've had enough fun it's time to get this unbolted and blast it apart well that was easy all right I have to stop here and I have to talk about the way the block is constructed it does have I guess what you would consider a bed plate but it doesn't sandwich on a flat plane like most of the engines we've seen with bed plates on this channel this has a ton of strength built into it this is really quite impressive I can understand why people are able to get so much power out of these things is everything so reinforced it's pretty neat to see but there is uh there's bearing right there it's sparkly oil like substance bit of metal mixed in there's so much sparkly stuff in here sparkly oil it's a vein style pump and it exploded when I took it apart it's fine you can kind of see how that works but yeah lots of metal in the oil here you can definitely see the metal Hue in the oil there's some damage to this housing and all the veins have some wear to some of that Metals out of the pan most of that is I definitely wouldn't reuse this component not after all the metal that's gone through it no way all right now it's time to look at the oil pump belt this is an original belt or at least it appears to be and 96 000 miles um now I understand that these don't open up this wide while it's running but uh it's literally cracking everywhere I wonder what the service interval is for this belt now it's time to split the block and I'm a little leery here because two of my engine stand bolts are bolted to it and I don't really have a much of a choice in that say I can probably move one arm to this side but we may do this a little bit sketchy so first we're gonna get all the bolts out and then we'll deal with that disaster wow that went by pretty quickly all right before I go any further got my stand unbolted here and then I found another bolt hole to use here so we're three out of four that's better grades than I got in high school so that's just get this rear main seal plate out of the way which is a little more work than I anticipated well that's that should be good enough I think hey that's not too bad that wasn't bad at all this thing is just crazy there's so much material in here I don't I don't I don't think you could throw a rod out of this engine I I'm that's a challenge guys you can find me a two seven that actually had a rod leave the outside of this engine I don't see how it's possible there's just so much material in here oh [Music] there's our there's our knock so here's our knock it's a little he did say the engine sounded like a box of rocks and I don't know how big a rocks he's had in boxes but that's that's gonna make some racket now I am just really impressed with this casting this is just I've never seen a factory engine like this never seen any engine like this now it is time to turn this thing over start pulling the rods and pistons out which we may just pull the crank first and then push the rods and pistons out after that you can definitely tell the color difference between this journal and this journal the heat does this it's kind of like your uh cast iron pans and they've been seasoned they look like this at first and then they look like that after they've been cooked and there's been a lot of heat in that a lot of friction there the rest of the journals seem to look okay I'm going to do this a little bit different I'm going to take all the rod caps off and then I'm going to pull the main caps pull the crank I think it'll be easier to get the rods and pistons out that way foreign also by doing it this way it ensures that all the rods and pistons make it to the top of the bore [Music] all right looks like we just have eight main cap bolts and the crank will be out there's the thrust bearing I was wondering um whale before I pull this crank I gotta show you something that is a spun Main it's not bad but it's not good the gaps in the bearing are supposed to line up with the uh part of the block there which by the way it is fractured it's not machined I haven't seen that yet either lots of first today okay this this is just pull this crank right out mm-hmm that cover is really fine oh that's that's the opposite of good it's bad it's real bad now this part should be pretty easy I think or should I not say anything well that comes out really easily what is happening well I don't really know where to start so we're just going to start with the number one rod bearing it's gone it's the powder that we found inside of this engine but the rest of the rod bearings yeeh definitely a case of oil starvation now I I look these rods and pistons over as closely as I can at first I don't know why there's a color difference or a way they I don't know why they look like they do if someone knows please put it down in the comments this is the rod that cooked bearing you can see it's it's had some heat some friction in it the rest of these don't look too bad but I was looking at the rods and pistons mainly the Pistons I was looking for maybe a cracked ring land or something to cause excess crankcase pressure and I don't see it except uh which one was it I think it's this one that oil control ring is just caked full of oil deposits and carbon but I still don't think it's enough like I just don't think that's enough all of the Rings spin they're all pretty freed up I found a little bit of damage to that piston there it's really not it's really not that terrible but let's go back to the Piston with damage and that's the one that hit the cylinder head and I think probably one valve there so that one is definitely not going to be something I'd reuse but that's the worst of the damage this isn't all of the main bearings these are just what actually came off the crank and as you can see the bottom shells are really rough top shells pretty rough but they're they're bad uh we're gonna still try to get the spun bearing off of this and I don't know if we're going to be able to do that or not Let's uh let's get something to pry on this with yeah see just a little needs a little bit of help here oh yeah that's bad foreign yeah not good on the back of these a little bit of damage it's not like it spun it very far but I mean there's still Damage Done the block does have some pretty significant damage that's the cylinder that deleted a rod bearing and that's what happens when that piston can rock back and forth it doesn't have a lot of skirt so it definitely did some damage the rest of the borers do have some damage as well and pretty pretty not great the other bank definitely has similar wear I don't know if anybody builds these engines I have no idea what the value of these parts are so new something else worth mentioning although I don't think it's really related to this type of failure the amount of RTV on this Factory engine it's a little on the the mutt side I understand they don't want to leak but oil flows through this and it looks like the RTV which significantly hamper the amount of oil going through here it may not it may not be a big deal and they may they may have accounted for that and there's the number one main cap you can definitely tell it's cooked we know how this engine failed it was starve of oil Dean said that he was driving along the oil pressure light came on he pulled over found the dipstick hanging out of the engine the driver's side of the engine just covered in oil he added five quarts which is a lot and then drove another 30 miles before it started running rough and it was it was probably knocking pretty bad at that point the damage had been done but we don't know why it pushed the dipstick out on turbocharged engines the crankcase ventilation system is incredibly important and if there's any issues there it can push seals out and push the dipstick out I had a turbocharged MX6 is when I melted Pistons it would or cracked a ring man it would pop the dipstick out I'm quite used to this type of failure however in this case I don't think it had any piston damage I didn't see any cracked ring glands I didn't see any melted pistons and those things would usually coincide with a misfire and Dean said it was running perfectly fine it just threw a low oil pressure warning obviously there was something wrong here some other problem with the crankcase system must have had a blockage I don't know how that's controlled I'm not that familiar with these engines to where I can tell you oh well when this goes bad that happens but the more of these I see maybe that information will be readily available and I can show you guys more failures like this hopefully not for you two seven guys a couple takeaways from this teardown I saw a lot of things I did like about this engine and a few things I didn't some of the things I do like it has dual injection both port and direct injection that's huge saves maintenance costs you don't need induction Services that's that's great the bottom end of that engine is built very Stout I was really impressed with that I'm not a big fan of wet belts in any facet but I think that if you could find somebody to either retrofit the 15 to 17 to 7 chain or maybe an aftermarket company comes out and builds those components to drive that pump with a chain pain and maybe someone makes a metal oil pan for it I think that'd be a fantastic engine wasn't the easiest to work on but if you don't need to is it really a problem I I think all of you oh Dean a huge thank you but no one owes him a thank you more than I do because this was an engine I've been chasing for a really really long time so if you'd like to buy parts out of this engine or anything else I've torn down or off of this 2007 350Z which has hit just a little fender frame Bender it's fine I'm going to leave our email in the video description you can also go to importapart.com and peruse our inventory I've been uploading parts cars every single week as always I love all the comments all the feedback and even the criticism I love it all and I'll catch you on the next one

Channel: I Do Cars

Views: 953,120

Keywords: Ford, Ecoboost, 2.7, 2.7 Twin Turbo, Bronco, F150, F-150, Edge, Fusion, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, Gen2, Review, Problems, Issues, Engine, Motor, Teardown, I Do Cars, mechanic, repair, valve cover, twin turbo, tune, injectors, pcv, Failure, towing, capacity, off road, exhaust, downpipes, Exhaust, badlands, oil pump, belt, wet belt, blown, Cylinder head, bearings, timing, phasers, timing chain, oil pan, oil leak, misfire, STX, Lariat, fix, coils, plugs, oil change, vs 3.5, Lima, Chevrolet, vs, turbo, oil, change, Nano, V6

Id: xZJicuObVDY

Length: 53min 4sec (3184 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 23 2023