700,000 Mile 7.3 Powerstroke Teardown! Does This REALLY Have This Many Miles?

a few weeks ago I posted a video about this 73 power stroke this was an engine that I bought from another local yard with the intent to tear down on the channel however I then did a Carfax on it which led me to believe that it had either 70 000 or 700 000 miles and in that video we tore some things apart we pulled a valve cover off we pulled the oil pan checked out some bearings looked at the cam and I can tell you that the replies were all over the place a lot of people said oh that's only got 70 000 miles on it it's got high idle time which that seemed to be the overall consensus but there were a lot of you that said I've worked on many of these high mileage well-maintained engines and that's just what they look like with a lot of miles on them there are people saying well it could be someone swapped the gauge cluster which is totally possible or maybe it wasn't the original engine and people swapped some parts over or bought a reman and reused some of the parts that had date codes on them I found a picture of the actually I didn't even find it you guys found a couple of you viewers found the actual auction photos from 2015 when this truck ran through Copart and well the picture says it all now whether the cluster is original to the truck I cannot verify the Carfax especially back in the late 90s early 2000s mid-2000s not a lot of people put a lot of information there just not there which is why I was in this entire conundrum in the first place the last thing I want to do is tear down a 70 000 mile motor however after I saw some wear and some things in it when we pulled it apart I think it's best that I tear this engine down in that video I also asked you guys what I should do with this engine there are two things that I don't like doing number one I don't like selling an engine is good when I have any inkling then it might not be number two is I don't like tearing down an engine that is good so I think I've got a solution here what I'd like to do with this is sell this engine complete lead disassembled we're going to tear this 7 3 all the way down and then I'm going to sell it all Fasteners everything that comes off today except for the spider pipe that'll sell separate but everything else as a builder's package I don't have a better word or terminology for it I did this with the 5 liter Mustang engine and it sold in hours within hours of publishing the video so maybe this will share the same fate and I will still make some money on the parts I don't know what it's worth and I guess that will be determined by the amount of machine work but today we're going to find out what the inside of an engine looks like from a truck that shows 699 341 miles well since there aren't spark plugs to pull the first thing I'm going to do is start stripping the valley here we're gonna get the spider pipe out of the way harness a solenoid and then we'll work our way back to the turbo hmm okay hmm that seems pinched in there that doesn't seem right now let's focus on the turbo earlier today I sprayed a bunch of penetrant on all the stuff that I thought was going to fight me hopefully that was a good idea and that helped save me a bunch of time and effort we're going to start with these up pipes I have no idea if this is going to be enough to get these out that's not really going to work too well because that doesn't go straight on there I guess we'll start with this clamp this v-band clamp here kind of figured that one would come out we'll deal with that in a second now let's see if we can break all of the bolts loose this is still stuck on the exhaust housing of the turbo I'm actually going to try to get these Broke Free I don't know if that's going to help me at all but I feel like it'll allow me enough play to get the turbo off and get this off of these up pipes all we can do is try I know what you guys are saying put some heat on it maybe the bolts will come out that way okay did it help ah that will work foreign excellent now for this side oh man that one's coming out let's try this other one here foreign well all those bolts are out now we can maybe take the pedestal bolts out all right we're going to use a breaker bar on the aces I have no idea how tight these are oh not very I suppose look way too clean for 700k now the turbo just pops right off right it just just pops right off looks like a job for blue first let's give it a couple Taps here look at that okay oh looks like we have an actuator to remove not in here let's just try pulling on it yeah well here's the stock Garrett Turbo and appears to be an original Turbo I guess a lot of you guys say the early ones are the smaller ones so this would be one of those everything looks to be in relatively decent shape there's uh it does spin okay considering how long this engine sat there's no shaft play a wheel does not hit the housing so it's decent at least well next I'd like to remove the pedestal but first let's try to fight with this a little bit or not at all [Music] see any other date codes on this I'm going to be looking for everything date code related as I take this engine apart well I found a part tag or label on this line here I'm gonna be careful I don't wipe anything away like it is genuine parts so it's probably a replacement but is there a date code on it I don't see one if oh it's a replacement for sure it's because it's got it says f81z and Z denotes that's been a replaced part but that could literally just be this line as a matter of fact that part number is this line it's like uh copyright of 2004. the next thing I'm going to do is remove the AC compressor bracket and then we'll start clearing the front of this engine hopefully we can get everything down still have that pinched wire so that tells me that this has probably been a part I think that's what we'll do next we'll work on this water pump now we'll take the water pump out it is broken from the accident this truck was in foreign was tight is that all of them looks like it's been hit real hard right there things dented and cracked you can get this off oh man this thing looks terrible so now you can see that that wire was pinched inhale it's pinched in this plate it's not even pitching the water pump is there a is it supposed to be or is it it looks like it's stuck in the RTV they were smashed in there wow so the harness is damaged unfortunately it's been cut from looks like the yard but I'm still gonna save it because the connectors are still good so the water pump is damaged in multiple ways for starters the shaft is broken off completely and then it looks like some part of the rotational part of the engine whether it was the fan blade or the fan clutch probably the clutch made a very big indent and cracked the casing housing here and also if you look at this looks like the very tip of these made contact with the actual housing it's interesting it looks like this piece can come out separate but it doesn't matter this is all junk if you look at the front cover there's actually grooves worn in this from the impeller of the water pump now I don't know if that's going to make this worth nothing or not usable they're not terribly deep it's not nothing like that 6'4 cover when we pulled that apart but still something worth mentioning all right now I've got a lot of lines to remove got some oil lines we're gonna get this uh fuel filter housing out of here and start removing this pump wow that was excessive oh they're just going to hang out there and we can turn our attention to the front oh man that was just rotted look at that there's the uh bolt for the gear for the oil pump first we're going to take these two things out now the fuel filter housing just comes right off all right now we're going to get this loose I'm going to thread this back in just a little I might need to give it a couple taps with a mallet this is the part we're trying to get out next this is the high pressure pump oh looks like I don't need to give it a couple taps oh and there's the pump next I'm going to take a minute and try to get this exhaust manifold off of the passenger side and then we'll go to the driver's side and I'm a little concerned that these are all going to round and strip but we're gonna find out yep that's what's gonna happen every single one is going to be like that yep yep that was a bad idea bad idea so 12 millimeter I'm gonna Hammer a different size socket on there I guess it did it that was violent and I broke it dang it come on this is by far the worst side the other side should be much easier nope that's gonna pull itself back up so that's breathe on it for a minute see if we can get out with a breaker bar foreign okay three left we can do this no that's gonna break too they're all gonna break but let's get some heat on it it's a good thing I had hot wings for lunch Perfect Two More that'll break it let's get it hot oh yes in fact should be able to get it from here one left let's see if we can just just do that one just get it out well there's no tension on it because there's no tension on it see what happens and then break one hot manifold now we can pull the valve cover this is the passenger side at first glance this looks really nice in here you can see paint marks on the valve springs paint marks on the head casting in multiple areas the wire harness looks really nice this is exactly like when we crack the other side open this looks the exact same I would bet that this has had valve cover gaskets done which has this integral wire harness for the injectors we're gonna just gently lift this up and then we can disconnect these dudes here one two three four and then we're gonna have to disconnect the glow plugs too see how hard those are oh they just they just come right off oops and there you have it now let's take a look at these injectors here well that one has a big reman printed into it that one does too but they don't look they look like they've removed all of the writing that was on them before really can't see anything on these particular injectors but the ones that stamped reman have this black connector so let's go ahead and see if we can get these out well I thought this was going to be easy let's try this here yeah that'll do it there's one Mighty 7-3 injector let's try that with the rest of these I don't know if that'll work but it worked on one so it's worth a shot here's the second one now we can remove the Rockers and the push rods yes and now we can pull the push rods so all the push rods look good I do my normal checks for push rods where I look at the ends to make sure they're all glossy and that none of them look like they have a brushed finish just to make sure that uh they're being oiled properly and these look all good let's get this cylinder head off foreign so I was warned that these heads are going to be heavy and I really didn't need the warning because they're cast iron and it's a diesel so they're dense it also has a fuel rail in it so wish me luck well I guess it has to has to come off at some somehow some way you know what you probably do we're gonna take one head bolt and we're going to thread it in right here so for whatever reason this thing goes flying it doesn't come all the way off of the engine did I miss some bolts something staring at me in the face that's casting well let's get something a little bit bigger huh that's odd nope I guess we're going to try some other stuff huh I just didn't want it to come to this you know I tried to work things out but it has other ideas sure this is a great idea I'm gonna stand back here no no well it worked did I just break something here I sure did well that stinks all right now I gotta I guess can I pick this up is this too heavy oh my God that's uh heavy is uh definitely the word I would use it's probably why I couldn't get it off because it's just heavy Okay so the weight is off 114 pounds 113 pounds that is a very very very heavy cylinder head I don't know how I'm gonna get the other one off I don't think I can just lift that off of there without uh sending myself to the chiropractor well here's the cylinder head and I don't know this it looks like it's got miles on it lots of carbon definitely some moisture sitting in that cylinder again this this thing sat for six years six and a half years so that's a very long time see the build up around that valve right there now this was a mess this was a bad idea we're gonna do something different on the other side but the cylinders are full of oil and Diesel from pulling the injectors so I'm gonna suck all that out so we can get a better look at the bore so you can tell that this one is that one that had some moisture in it let's get this stuck down and take a look at those bores well you can still see a lot of cross hatching in these cylinders but there is a pretty distinct Ridge at the top that Piston's clean this one we really can't get a good look at this one's got a lot of build up on it but again the cylinder walls look pretty good except for that Ridge at the top which that might clean up but this is the real traveling thing that appears to be a cracked piston so maybe from the wreck you think that was from the wreck some other source was it running with a cracked piston the bores look good there's a some pitting it's not terrible but that piston that's not right now let's see if we can get this out without breathing on it at the breaker bar this side has a lot less corrosion so I might get lucky yes yes no yes yes okay so we're gonna have to hammer the socket on there I'm gonna get a 12 point for this it'll work a little easier all right let's get some heat on it I think we're I think we're good here oh that one's hot okay three left foreign two left oh that's hot so hot let's get this one hot nope this is a another job for the 12 millimeter oh it doesn't feel good well I think it's turning oh yes it's coming out [Music] one left this will do it success all right now we're gonna pull this driver's side or left-hand valve cover much like the other side the paint marks are still clearly visible this is really clean inside we actually opened this up in the last video and this is one of the areas that we inspected so let's go ahead and get this valve cover gasket and wire harness off of here okay now for the injectors oh okay foreign that one um well I guess we could use the big bar I don't really want to do that for injectors but well let's get this one out I guess wow that one that one was tough well that injector is done now now we'll crack the Rockers loose all the push rods look really nice foreign I will crack these head bolts loose well I suppose I'm just gonna try this I don't know if this is a good idea I've already had some bad ideas so what's another one no I made a pretty big mistake pulling the head off the other side and I don't want to do it again so I think what I'm going to do is still use the forklift and the chain I've got it bolted to this side of the head and then we'll use the engine lift hook on the other side of the head I might have to do some side shifting and driving forward and backwards to get it off at the right angle but at 113 pounds I am not trying to pull this off and carry this to the bench it's just not not what I want to do tonight commence bad idea number two come on it might work I promise I didn't miss any bolts all right did I miss a bolt no I did not I guess I could give it some Taps let's get the let's get my little pry bar here it's leaking all right I think we're gonna be good ah that was much better well this head looks a lot like the other head cleans up pretty good wow that does look pretty decent I don't see anything jumping out at me don't see any cracks see any valve damage it all looks all right well much like the other side I need to suck all this down oh let's get this head gasket out of here that looks all right the front cylinder has some interesting things lots of this carbon this is probably from that ring here this upper ledge but more importantly look at the top of that piston I can't tell if that's damaged or not it doesn't really look that good like the finish on it doesn't look right to me and I just put scratches in it let's see if we can get a rag on it I don't know maybe it does clean up okay there's definitely a little Ridge here at the top but you can still see a lot of the cross hatching in the cylinders that looks really good I don't really see anything that's wrong all right the next thing we're going to do is pull all the lifters out so here are the lifters out of this engine you can see there is somewhere on the rollers and the the rollers that have the most wear are the stiffest to roll over which is uh what you'd expect a little resistance creates friction but nothing terrible and these are the same lifters that are in a six liter and a six four but those have twice the number of valve springs to push down which is likely part of the reason they fail so fast in those engines the next thing I'm going to try to do is remove this crank pulley well that was a lot easier than I expected well I've got my puller set up here I have no idea if this is going to work all right all we can do is try oh I see what's happening that really wasn't too bad now I have some bolts to take out so we can hopefully get this front cover off is there nothing else over here oh there he is there is well it's looser-ish yep yep got some bolts there everywhere [Music] oh there's a oil pump dang that's awesome okay I don't know if that really got me anywhere it could be that this engine's sitting on the pan and that could be keeping this front cover on here I think that's what's going on here all right let's see what happens here well that's still really heavy you know I bet maybe the pickup bolts to the to it and that's what we're stuck on I bet that's it look how much I think flexes I I can't wait to stand underneath it all right let's get this pan out of the way somehow the pant has refilled itself with oil yep that was it okay all right now that the pickup tube is unbolted it's covered comes right off now it's time we're going to try to pull the cam out we're gonna need to turn the engine over so that we have access to all of the cam locking plate bolts we can get to this one this is not advisable working on an engine hanging off of a forklift but that's what we're doing so now does this just oh my gosh it does well that was way easier than I expected so let's let's just be careful with this we already know this thing has some damage okay well I I it's it's more out now this cam has significant wear it looks much worse than the lifters did now I don't know if the lifters were replaced the the cam journals themselves look pretty decent I wouldn't suspect we're going to see any Cam Bearing wear or nothing major the cam foreign looks like uh it's pretty much gone to me and here's what the oil pump looks like this is the housing it looks really nice it's a little bit of wear but really it's it's not bad what a beefy pump it's really simple too that's it that's the pump all right let's get this pickup out of the way before we damage it so I did want to talk about the timing cover for a second look how clean the inside of that cover is this is the only aluminum piece that was on the crankcase side of this engine the heads the block the valve cover stamped steel that everything else is cast iron this is the only cast aluminum piece and look how clean this is this looks like it came out of my parts washer at least this side did and the cam gear drives this it's a gear for the high pressure pump but pretty neat while I've got this engine hanging here I'm going to remove the flex plate and then I can get all the rear block stuff off where I won't have access if I sit this on its tail foreign there we go oh oh uh so the end of the crank is coming off I see well that wasn't too bad then all the cam bearings do have some wear as you'd expect with a high mileage engine but they're really not that bad there's the front well I'm not going to call this sketchy I'm just going to call it experimental I don't really know what's gonna happen here oh I don't like that that's uh yeah that's not too bad I'm being serious that's not too bad this is the part where it might be too bad yeah what's what's realistically the worst that could happen here ah I got some wood down here yeah this will be just fine I need more wood don't we all okay this is gonna be the funnest part which way is it gonna go no I don't want you going that way ha ha ha ha it's fine everything's fine oh we're almost there That's Heavy I'm gonna use the big bar for this one so [Music] there at that point I can turn the crank over and I can get all the rods and pistons out so that's not it's not too sketchy right right so I wouldn't call this dangerous I think thrilling is the correct word here now all I've got to do is pull the rods and pistons out and then I have to figure out a way to pull the crank and I'm probably going to flip the block upside down on this table to do that but first the rods and pistons rotate this so we have the best access oh well it's not turn this will turn right yes now if you recall in the other video I actually took some of these apart which is why not all of these will be tight that Top Ridge is gonna be fun well it's moving foreign foreign foreign as you can tell the bearings have significant wear this is probably the worst shell here but they are all pretty consistent so what do you guys think high mileage onto idle time no real surprises here now the rods all look good but the Pistons they're all pretty dirty Lots of carbon buildup and I don't know how how thick the Rings are supposed to be I don't really have a low mileage engine to compare to they don't look terrible but I also don't know what I'm looking at now I did see some some damage to one of these and that is this one right here this one appears to be cracked we're going to clean that up and see how bad that actually is well it is definitely a shallow crack you can see it right there at the edge of the bowl at first I thought it might have been some fluid sitting in that cylinder but uh it's definitely cracked one thing that's odd though is there's not a definitive line where the crack goes on the side of the crown here on at the top of the piston you can kind of see it but it's not super obvious at first like I said I thought it might have been a stain but it's also not a perfect level across so I'm pretty convinced that's a crack this was the other piston I thought might have been damaged I thought it was melted but it turned out it was just a bunch of evenly distributed carbon at the top of that piston that made it appear that way I think this Piston's okay let's gandered these bores here cross hatching is still really nice but I can feel that right there through my glove it's not terrible but that might be a crack I don't know how and I don't know why there's no other damage there but that is something to pay attention to the rest of the boards look pretty good and that is until you get to this cylinder which clearly sat with moisture in it and this could have happened as this engine was stored for over six years and this is the importance of storing engines fully wrapped up fogged and even inside do all of those things and typically this won't happen let's take a look at this side so it looks pretty good there is a slight Ridge at the very top but it's really not it's really not bad there's some vertical lines but it's this is better condition than uh a lot of the blocks we've seen on this channel okay it's time to do some more thrilling things yeah that was thrilling well it's like we planned that oh like a glove let's crack these main Caps loose oh these are tight I don't really have a way to hold this still actually let's go uh let's go park it with the forklift that'll do it all right now the forklift is pinning this to the ground should work a little bit better [Music] thank you more thrilling things the main bearings have quite a bit of wear it's down to the Copper on almost every single shell the journals have some moderate wear as well not like damage like anything ran through the oil but just Lots of wear almost every single Journal would definitely need machine work or at least polishing before putting back together I made a few mistakes during this tear down first with the injectors I had no idea how much force it would take to get the injectors out of the head and in my haste I broke two of them I was pretty bummed out at first but after I looked up how cheap new injectors are I don't think I could have sold those used aftermarket no name injectors out of a 700 000 mile engine I didn't hear run that's a tough sell the other thing I did wrong was the way I pulled the first cylinder head in my head I thought that if I thread one of the head bolts in a few threads that when that seal would pop it would mitigate the chances of that head going flying across the shop although you guys would have liked that but what really happened is because it was only a few threads in and it took so much force to break that seal I mean it nearly picked that entire engine off of the skid it ripped those threads out of the block that was kind of kind of a bummer but we did find Rust in another cylinder there's a hairline crack in another cylinder that would have been a tough sell anyway I don't know if the block is serviceable or not so I don't really know what to do with this engine which leads me to the final question how many miles are really on this engine well I can tell you with certainty that that was not a 70 000 mile engine all of the parts that made me think it was a lower mileage engine the wire harness the cleanliness of it it could have been cleaned it could have been oiled which would explain the lack of rust considering where it came from I think this engine has 700 000 miles on it I really do I think it was serviced well and often and I think it just showed the wear of a 700 000 mile engine the bearing wear we saw a cracked piston the camware the lifter wear that all screams high mileage which is really impressive I'm not saying anything bad about a 7-3 700 000 miles is impressive for any engine ever there's not very many that will make it that far without a total overhaul and it appears this one may have I don't know if that was the original engine to the truck they could have swapped valve covers onto a reman engine there's a whole lot of variables that we'll never know the answer to but I think it was a high mileage engine so what do I do with this do I sell it as a builder package do I sell parts from it I'll I'll sell it either way it doesn't really matter to me and whatever I don't sell will likely end up in the scrap bin there's not really anything that cool for my countertop if you'd like to buy parts off of this engine or off of any of these Miatas this is half of my Miata inventory maybe not even half there's so many here I'm gonna leave our email in the video description you can also go to importapart.com you can search through all of our parts if you don't see what you're looking for you can fill out our part request form which sends us an email of exactly what it is you're looking for as always I love all the comments all the feedback and even the criticism I love it all and I'll catch you on the next one

Channel: I Do Cars

Views: 606,893

Keywords: powerstroke, duramax, cummins, 7.3, ford, GMC, Chevrolet, Dodge, Ram, Truck, Diesel, Turbo, upgrade, tune, delete, high mileage, tuner, injectors, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, Superduty, F250, F350, F450, HD, 2500, 3500, Towing, Capability, Fuel mileage, problems, HPOP, timing, bearings, rods, pistons, Engine, Motor, Teardown, I Do Cars, Blown, VS, Exhaust, Racing, Swap, IDI, OBS, High mileage, oil leak, repair, replace, rebuild, built, intercooler, International, Navistar, issues, misfire, valve cover gaskets, Cranks wont start, acceleration

Id: R4OP7vWr_Vg

Length: 51min 49sec (3109 seconds)

Published: Sat Oct 15 2022