2009 Ford Fusion Secondary Air Injection System Fault P0410, P0491

hey guys scanner Danner here today we're working on a 2009 Ford Fusion customer complaint is just the tech engine light is on and you can see here with the fault codes we have we are dealing with a secondary air pump issue so this p 0 for 1 0 secondary air injection system fault and then p 0 for 9 1 air sufficient or air system insufficient Flow bank 1 as far as direction and where we're going this is an unfamiliar system to me so I don't have a specific path right now but a few things we can think about is it's an electric air pump I did a quick visual inspection show you guys some of these components alright so the first thing I did was just look at the exhaust manifold which is in the back and I can see a tube metal tube it runs over this way that is my air pump line that would be this guy right here then that goes underneath right to this valve right here this is gonna be your diverter valve looks like it's vacuum controlled so that line on the other side of this diverter is gonna go to the air pump so this fat line right where my fingers touching right there that's gonna go down to my air pump let's beat this tube follow it down further it comes around underneath and what you can't see from the top is the air pump itself which is underneath the intake manifold so it is an electric air pump and then I see another part of the system that we want to focus on this vacuum line comes over here to a solenoid computer controlled solenoid so that's what we're using to open up this diverter is we're applying vacuum to it and so a pretty straightforward system I think step one is going to be see what kind of bi-directional controls I have of this pump we'll do some key on engine off test see if we can energize the pump just listen to it then maybe from there we'll do a running test if it lets us and we will watch the oxygen sensor signals while we turn the air pump on so that's the plan for me you know without looking at the flowchart wiring diagram and things like that all I want to try to attack this just off of common knowledge first so by common knowledge I'm talking about an electric air pump that's either power or ground side controlled talking about an electronic solenoid that is the same either power or ground side controlled then we have some vacuum lines we need to look at some plumbing pretty straightforward system to be honest with you all right so functional tests output controls that's gonna suck if they don't give me an option to bidirectionally control this some I'm not gonna be happy looks like they're not in light of that I think what I'm gonna do is go right to the relay if I can find it easily without a diagram this being a Ford that's not gonna happen because Ford doesn't label their fuse panels stupid Ford's so it's not like I'm gonna be able to go to this guy and know which one my relay is for my secondary air injection pump man a bi-directional control would be very very helpful to me right now what are my options let's see if we can get online here see if I'm close enough to Wi-Fi I'm gonna have to get a diagram I was hoping to do this a little bit more simply but it's time to look at a diagram so we got a designated secondary air pump relay but in a designated fuse no that feeds the same time the air pump gets power it's also feeding fuse 45 which is a 5 amp I betcha that goes down to the solenoid that's on 20 gray with a red second oh that's a monitored circuit so that'd be a pull-up type switch input for those of you following along that'd be my chapter 2 material so that's just the computer monitoring that circuit so from the relay when that relay powers up from fuse 7 it's a 40 amp comes through pin 80 set or pin 32 pin 87 powers up this gray and yellow circuit branches off goes to fuse 45 which is a 5 amp and that is the circuit the computers watching to make sure that the relay actually latched and is sending power to the pumps at the same time on the gray yellow circuit that we're powering the pump is the same time we're feeding fuse 45 in a pull-up fashion it's a switch input in a sense monitored circuit when the computer sees 12 volts on the gray red wire it says cool the relay latched and the pump should be running and then it's going to do other tests on it as well all right let me look at this solenoid now let's figure out how the solenoids controlled solenoids secondary air pump solenoid so we follow the wires follow both and we'll start with the splice on the violet gray it is shared with the relay so that's probably going to be a power as my guess could be a ground let's follow the violet gray that goes to four for violet gray comes over to my computer set s AI our secondary air that's pin one so that's the computer wire still doesn't answer our question this is chapter three material by the way stuff I teach every day in my classes so what we want to do is in my text I say follow the wire we're trying to figure out how this thing's controlled follow the wire that doesn't go to the computer will tell you what's in the computer so we know the violet gray wire pin two goes to the computer there's another that's weird that they use the same color wonder if that's a misprint pin one violet gram pin one comes down to four on the diagram we'll go to the next page violet gray four following it across goes to violet gray three next page again violet gray on three comes across the page - violet gray on six six comes to a splice that's shared with every other violet gray wire on this car yeah and I'm just following one of the wires it goes over to the computer on pin 20 says ve power that's or VB power that's a battery feed that's feeding into the computer that splice that's a main that is a main power feed yeah all these are using it the the dotted line comes down the page over here on the left so ss109 follow that will go down this dotted line also ties in on the violet gray at the bottom so the variable camshaft timing solenoid uses it the o2 heaters are using it that is that is going to be a power feed and so that means that let's go back well some of you guys probably want to know where that power feed is coming from it's gonna be a relay or something it's just not on this page we have to go back this is a little bit difficult to do on a screen like this and have you guys follow what I'm doing all these violet gray wires are on the same circuit you see the cam sensor is using it to intake manifold runner control is using it so pin two and three not pin sorry diagram number two and three next page two and three goes three and four three and four there's my air pump solenoid and three it was over two five it's gonna be the power relay you watch PC Empire relay yeah big splice right there so one two and five on this comes from fuse nineteen sorry fuse 49 and fuse 49 is gonna be powered up by the PCM power relay so all of that to say that that solenoid is ground side controlled by the engine computer so if the PCM power relays powering up all of those circuits including let's go back to my secondary air injection solenoid including pin one on the secondary air pump solenoid that means pin two that goes to the computer is a ground side controlled circuit all right so we're talking manual controls here and here's what I'm thinking about I want to make sure my pump runs amperage is going to be a factor maybe we want to make sure that the o2 is react if the pump runs we also want to make sure that we can open this secondary air pump solenoid to feed vacuum through to the diverter to make the valve open and pump air into the exhaust and watch co2 so that that's the process we're gonna go through I think the first thing I want to do is I want to energize this this secondary air pump circuit and that's going to be involved this relay and nice of Ford again to not give me a number even on this diagram so I got to switch diagrams because they're not giving me a number unless they're abbreviating it here they are not this is just simply numbers numbers now we can use the owner's manual stupid Ford's secondary air pump relay should be should be this bottom guy right here not relay for whatever reason is different than all the other ones so it looks like that relay was maybe replaced before it's the fact that it's different than the others maybe not I mean it could be just design and on the diagram they're showing that as a four pin so it is a four word relay well that's a heavy duty bad boy huh cool should still be able to use my you activate kit you know my pins are a lot bigger the load side ones I still should be able to use this kit those are my load load control so we love this tool I heard the pump run didn't mean to have the switch hunt listen sure sounds like the pumps in a different location than what our visual inspection showed but maybe just because I'm hearing it looks like it's pumping into the air filter housing pretty sweet tool huh well that's cool pump runs I need to follow my plumbing here because I'm hearing air in a location I did not expect yeah it's definitely dumping into the or that's the air inlet maybe for the pump okay so this tube is the inlet that's why I'm hearing it so loudly in here well that's not good either just this being loose that's not gonna set an air pump code but yeah so that's my inlet tube for the pump and then my discharge way up here okay so pump runs we hear it that doesn't tell me my flows right doesn't tell me my amperage is good we can do an amperage measurement with this tool too but I'll save that for later we'll put an amp clamp on here if everything else tests good but what we need to check now well unfortunately I'm also not I'm not testing this relay I'm bypassing the relay so if the relay is a high failure item we really need to check this too and I don't like using an ohm meter I want to put at least some kind of a load on this and what I can do all right so this is this is something really anybody can do but you need to know what you're doing because if you do something like this wrong what I'm about to show you you have the potential of damaging the computer driver for this relay okay anytime you're doing tests like this that involve jumping a circuit which is what I'm going to show you I only need one strand of this copper wire I'm just gonna check this relay under a load remember this is power side fed ground side switched so I'm gonna go to ground with my test light check my test light make sure your lights my two control pins this one and this one see the one that's lit brightly that's gonna be my feed to my relay and then the one that's glowing dimly some type of bias voltage on that circuit probably that's going to be my control pin right there so what I'm gonna do is being careful that this wire once I get this in place it doesn't touch anything else especially these other pins on the relay that's where we get in trouble I'm just gonna do a relay check is the plan a lot of guys will want to you know maybe energize the relay and then use an ohm meter so you can energize these two pins with jumper wires and then use an ohmmeter between these two pins and this should be infinity open when these are not energized and when these two are energized the coil closes the switch and then those two should show zero ohms I just I don't like that test so relay installed my test lights gonna be my tool that I'm gonna use to energize this this should click the relay and run the pump hope you guys followed what I just did okay now I'm not applying a full ground to the relay there is the test slight resistance in there but it's enough this is a 200 milli amp test light and the control side of a relays typically around a hundred milliamps so there's enough even though there's some resistance in the bulb there's enough for of a ground to to give this a magnetic field close the context of the relay around the pump all right so we just checked the relay to again my bypass tool substitutes the relay okay so from this point we're gonna plug my bypass tool back in there's some other things we're really not done with the relay yet either because we never checked the computer control of the relay all we've done is test the relay in in my test I was actually being the computer I was doing what the computer would do and grounding that pin so I'm not checking the computer control of the relay or the driver and that's where our bi-directional test would come in unfortunately I don't have a bi-directional test so I'm moving away from that right now we'll come back to that if we need to we need to check these other components I still have to check the solenoid and the diverter and make sure they're working so that's what's next the next one's gonna be this solenoid we want to make sure this solenoid can supply vacuum to that valve and I think for you guys let me get a vacuum gauge okay so vacuum to this diverter that I just unplugged it's gonna come from the solenoid right here and it has a vacuum supply so I haven't eyeballed that yet I should have maybe even started with that let's eyeball this vacuum supply line that is this one goes under the manifold it's still connected not broken okay what we want is I want vacuum to go to this valve whenever we start the and I energized this solenoid now we're at a relatively cold engine temperature right now and it is possible that we are meeting the conditions to run the air pump right now so maybe just starting it up let me just say this well I got to put this back on - because of the mass airflow and you know what we better tighten that that was loose I'll get a real screwdriver here in a minute but somebody left that air tube loose anyway what I was getting at if I start this and that vacuum gauge moves that means the air pump was being commanded on we can actually watch the LED light on this - which is the control side of my relay that'll tell us if the computer is actually turning that air pump on because I have the relay out so it's not gonna turn on with my tool in here but let me start it and and then I'll talk about it all right yeah so there we go see the pump command it on see the vacuum so that air pump was just commanded on now it just shut off I was awesome that told me a whole bunch of stuff right there that test alone so I was gonna manually energize this coil here in fact I'll do that too just because let's do it but that test when we saw that LED light light there it is again that air pumps being turned on okay you know what hold on hold on I need to change direction again just because I have this window of opportunity put them I put the relay back in this is not in the equation anymore what I want to do because now I'm seeing vacuum here is I'm gonna start it and then I'm gonna pull this off when I hear the pump running because I want to hear a pitch change if this doesn't change pitch that means my diverter stuck shut okay so I'm gonna try it there's no change now I can hear I can hear the diaphragm part working but I did not hear an airflow change on the discharge side of this diverter and so what that means is our diverters pad let me take this hose off on the back we get this hose off and I'll show you guys where I am it's the discharge side of this diverter valve now at this point if I want to do this with a car off I would want to manually energize the relay manually energize the solenoid I would need a vacuum supply there too so let's try this again with the car running and then I'll figure out a way to teach you guys how to do it if you did not have a system like I'm dealing with right now it's coating off that you can use the car to do these checks no airflow at all one more time what we want I did that backwards I started I heard the air pump run can you see this tube this tube right here put my thumb over the hole there was no air flow and I know we have vacuum to this I showed it to you guys pulling vacuum off would close it putting vacuum back to it would open it one more time I'm going to start it see if we get this air pump to turn on no airflow at all none whatsoever on that let's see if I can let's see if I can unstick this thing nope nope okay so I am pretty confident that this divert is bad but there's one more piece that I need to make sure of and that's I don't have a restriction from the pump up to here so what I need to do is take the inlet side off of this diverter and make sure that I have air flow here and then we'll talk about the test that I was doing so that's my that's my Inlet to the diverter all kinds airflow door so I hope that makes sense on what I showed you I mean we're pretty much done with the car it definitely needs a diverter valve but I just want to review a few of the steps that we took and then I think what I'd like to do is show you guys how to manually activate these circuits and check that flow the way we just did I might need well there's multiple ways we can do it with the vacuum part a hand vacuum pump would work we can use the existing vacuum using the solenoid we'd have to have the car running energize the coil and then manually energize the relay so it was very valuable very very valuable to us that this car was at a colder temperature that was allowing us to use the computers control of the pump and then check the circuits involved now if this was a hot engine without bi-directional controls I'm pretty confident that this air pump does not run on hot restarts and so you'd have to let the car cool off there would be no way that you could check the computers control of the relay the final part when we did the relay test that I told you we couldn't test without having that driver turn on so there's two ways to turn a driver on one by directional controls well we didn't have them available so two is to meet the conditions that the driver needs to turn on that's the only other way to check it so we'd have a driver issue we would still need to check we would have a wiring integrity between the driver in the computer and the relay okay so there would be that part of the circuit of course you have the pump itself powers and graphs of the pump does it run you know we're kind of doing the relay and the pump together and then it comes up to the diverter and the diverter is vacuum controlled so we have a solenoid we did our text on the on the diagram we found out it was power fed and ground side switched we're gonna review that here in a minute because I'm going to show you how to energize that solenoid same way I showed you how to energize the relay so the solenoids a factor and let's say that the solenoid worked and you could make it work you could make air flow go to the diverter and the diverter worked and you had air going to the exhaust well consider that the computer also controls the solenoid so you have to have that driver there's two drivers there's a driver for the relay there's a driver for the solenoid so you have to make sure the driver for the solenoid can function and again if you don't have bi-directional controls how do you test that you have to meet the conditions for that driver to turn on which is the same time the air pump run so you need the engine cold on a startup that would be how you check the solenoid driver fortunately for us because of the way things went we had a vacuum gauge on the diverter telling us that the vacuum switching solenoid or valve works and applies vacuum to the diverter it also told us that computer driver was good it also told us the computer driver control wire the integrity of the wiring from computer to solenoid was good same thing with the relay so pretty sweet that we have the vacuum gauge there that you guys could see that the vert of alph stuck shut how do you check for a stuck shut diverter you need to have air going to the diverter then you need to apply in this case vacuum to the diverter to make it open and then you check air on the other side no vacuum no air you have vacuum you should have air so that's the last part that I can show you guys manually which isn't necessary we're done this needs a diverter it's stuck shut but those are just things you need to think about if you have an air pump fault that is intermittent and or you just have an air pump fault and you're going through the system and everything checks out fine don't forget about your drivers got to make sure those drivers turn on don't forget about your control wires there's two of them one to the relay one to the solenoid and then the final piece if it got that far I didn't know how far this was going to take us but the final piece would be the oxygen sensors and may ensure that those Oh two signals drop lean with that air pump being turned on so that's another piece to this equation to let me show you the test on the solenoid and the diverter and then we should be done all right now as with anything and everything we do there are multiple checks that we can do on the same system so one of the things that I could do is I could do the end with the engine off I could take a hand vacuum pump to where this line goes on the port behind here you probably can't see it's blocked by this bracket on the diverter itself and then pump it up while I'm energized in the air pump with my tool that would be the test that we could use but let's say you don't have a hand vacuum pump and right now I don't have a hand vacuum pump with me let's do some fundamental tests on the solenoid we can shortcut this a little bit so test lights battery ground I'm gonna back probe this I know it's ground side controlled is that tied in is that the same driver did I miss that in the diagram the fact that that shouldn't be energized in the relay unless it's a shared control circuit for the relay and I didn't see that I need to look at the diagram again because that I was surprised that that happened well we've definitely identified the control wire so using one driver in the computer and they're not showing me that it's a definitely a variable here and that makes sense why my my relay had a glow to it it wasn't a bias it's a shared circuit here I'll show you I don't even need to see it on the diagram oh I'll maybe be able to show you that but what's this so if you remember when we were doing our circuit analysis on the relay circuit design this pin to the right yep just heard that solenoid energized I'm advertising that solenoid right now that test lights glowing dimly watch when I unplug this solenoid that test lights gonna go out so that's not a biased voltage that's a shared ground the relay shares the ground with the solenoid that means there's only one driver watch I'll unplug the solenoid watch my test light go out let me get my hands out of the way watch that test light go out as soon as I do this there you go shared circuit relay and solenoid use one driver so I don't even care what the wiring diagram shows me even if it shows that as a separate circuit there is one driver in the computer let's follow it now they do show and I missed it totally blew past it check it out violet gray on pin 2 that guy right there shared totally blew past it when we first went through this diagram shared circuit one driver that's why when I'm taking a nun back probing pin two on the solenoid I'm providing a partial ground to the solenoid and I am also providing a partial ground to the relay coil which is enough to energize the coil and make it do its thing that's pretty cool all right so relay it back in this is not typical you'd have to energize two different circuits in my case though I can energize it here now the question is is that enough of a magnetic field for the solenoid to do its job and transfer vacuum let's make sure I'm going to start the car let's see if this test my test light carries enough current I'll let that do its thing first alright that was the computer doing it now here's me doing it why with that wonder why that made it rough Oh I know why because I'm turning the air pump on the same time the inlet for the air pumps behind the mass airflow sensor and I'm doing it at a time where the computer is not ready for it so I've just changed the air flow characteristics in the in the manifold that's why it idles funny like that I bench it in a default strategy I'm just playing right now I'm gonna unplug the MAF and let this run in a default strategy come on come on come on you know your Maps Unplugged get with the program alright I'll bet you it doesn't do it now who hope that makes sense home well why me manually energizing that was affecting the way the car was running again air inlet for the math and I'm doing it at a time where it shouldn't be okay pretty cool stuff okay so I'm gonna plug this back in we know our air flows good here okay see we can free up this divert or - probably not no airflow well I hope you learned something from that I know a lot of you guys that have been following me for a long time followed that perfectly for some of you guys that maybe are finding me for the first time you might be a little bit confused and have some questions and everything that I did with this unfamiliar system revolves around fundamentals power ground side switching drivers control circuits relays how to test them I'd mentioned bias voltage and what's bias voltage well that voltage on my test light over there wasn't a bias it was tied in to the solenoid solenoid controls normally open normally closed how's it computer controlling it and then the vacuum supply how was the vacuum the pump itself all foundational fundamental material for you guys that are interested chapters 2 & 3 in my textbook I've written a textbook it's a field manual to allow you to get up to speed with this kind of stuff it's available from my website scanner Danner comm I also have a program that I've developed it's called scanner dander premium that I can bring you into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College and I essentially I'm teaching you through my book pays for page through the book fundamentals how to do this stuff and where we take the theory part of this or the field part of this and then we apply the theory behind it and when you come back you start doing field work you can just go right through it like you'd get you guys just watched unfamiliar system I've never worked on one of these not the air pump system on this this design this year model forward but it was nothing I couldn't handle I didn't have to follow the flow chart the wiring diagram was was helpful for sure we needed some service information but I didn't have to follow manufacturer flowchart and I knew exactly what I was doing so look forward to hearing your questions on this I know there's probably many I'll do my best to answer them I hope I clarified the tests that I was doing good enough for you I guess I'll find out in the edits if I did that's the magic of editing I can put arrows and notes and things like that but I think I did an okay job it helps to have my son Caleb here with me who's still in school because he asked me a bunch of good questions that you guys have the same questions of and he's not here so I am by myself talking to a camera but again fundamentals guys that's what this is about check out my website scanner Danner comm scanner Danner premium has a 14-day free trial check it out you guys owe it to yourself even if you sign up and then unsubscribe before the 14 days are up you won't be charged a dime just look and see what is there there's four hundred plus videos on there right now with 200 or so being classroom lectures and hundreds of hours of training material we're just teaching foundational stuff like this thank you guys I'll see you next time okay guys I have a little bonus footage here sorry for the mic change might sound a little bit different with the audio I have the diverter out of that car I apologize I didn't get to show you the new one in there I didn't think it was really necessary as I showed there was no airflow out of this at all and it was this is odd you guys couldn't really see in the captures this was the side that went to the exhaust and I believe yeah and this was the inlet from the pump just a couple real quick things before I take this apart I want to at least see if we can see what failed inside of here but I wanted to mention two things one the test I was doing here on the solenoid with my test light I don't know if you guys noticed but there were times when I was putting my test light in that you could hear the pump turn on because the relay was tied in but you didn't see vacuum change there was no vacuum going to the end of this tube and the reason for that was my test light was not Kari enough current flow at times to fully energized this solenoid to make the magnetic field strong enough to open it and have vacuum go through you could see when I first put the test light in it would because the bulb was cold and so there's a little bit more current flow at that point in time and then if I hold it on there or pulled it out put it right back in while the bulb was hot you could see that there was no vacuum there so I just wanted to warn you guys as I was choosing that method with my test light and then I was banging on the valve to try to free it up I was thinking I had vacuum there the whole time and I may have but I may not have and so that's a variable I wanted to point out I missed that in the filming of this but I saw it in the edits so it has to do with current flow and in a situation like that what would you do if you needed to energize the valve and the test light wasn't doing it properly in other words it was enough this was a little confusing because of the relay but it was enough to energize the relay but not the solenoid and relay at the same time and solenoids sometimes need a little bit more current flow than what your test light provides so you need to use a jumper wire I just want to caution you on jumper wires we could hurt things if we do it wrong so chapter 3 material again talk about the warnings with jumper wires and test lights and current flow and all of that so all right enough of that one more piece in this clip you can see where I wrap the wire around the pin of the relay I want to caution you guys on this too and again this is chapter 3 material I talked about this there's some safety issues here now this being a ground side switch solenoid if this wire that I've hanging out here would have touched something metal on the body of the car it wouldn't have hurt anything it would have just energized the relay no harm no foul however if this relay was a power side switch circuit and I have that wire there and it touches ground at the same time the computer was energizing the circuit I would cook the computer driver I hope that's clear power side switch circuit if the drivers own computer sending power down the line on the control wire and I have the control wire modified in a way that I can manipulate it if that copper wire would touch ground on a pyro side switch circuit you would cook the engine computer on a ground side switch circuit not the case touches ground we just energize the relay if the computer happened to already be energizing the relay giving it a ground we would just be giving it another ground again we wouldn't hurt the circuit so I wanted to point that out jumping relays can be very dangerous and you guys just need to be aware of that again all stuff that I cover in my classes alright let's let's see if we can get this thing apart in one piece and maybe if we're lucky show you guys what failed inside of it something else I wanted to mention here maybe while I'm taking this apart I had mentioned about the oxygen sensors and seeing if they would change properly and I didn't elaborate on that if they did not so let's say we did all of our text and we still have this air pump code you can have an air pump that's not producing enough air flow and that was where that comment came in about the oxygen sensors and how lean they would get and how how much the fuel trims change and what the strategy is there so that was that comment it's just just just a gasket high temperature and what's on this side you still need to be careful don't know what I was in here it's me pulling a vacuum on that still have sound but no movement here see what else is in here like that should come apart a little bit more without taking the other side apart also know that the diaphragm part didn't fail because I could hear the movement and it would it would move and then it would spring back when I'd let go with a vacuum so something mechanically stuck in here for sure spring spring and diaphragm high temperature it would pull but nothing opens on this side something broken in there [Music] mental disk see the the disk inside and that that disk that you're seeing in that hole is actually a metal disk so that should move and we should be able to push air see this was the exhaust side air was coming in from other side even though that piece is moved and it's in on the inside this outer piece is still in place it feels like it's like it's dock yep okay spring is broken if there's a spring there this check valve is this the part that failed someone with this spring does oh is it there I need a go look airflow was pushing in this way so that makes a little bit more sense to me and on how this works so the air would push in on this so it wasn't it would not have been attached to this I don't know what the spring does just yet but airflow would definitely have been in this direction pushing on on this piece and then the valve would open right and then allow airflow through now I heard the valve moving you could hear it when I was applying and releasing vacuum to it so I don't know exactly what failed here you want to show everyone on camera what your finger looks like alright dad stick your finger right here yeah it's just talking to my daughter man put your finger right there may dr. finger slams in a door broke the tip of her finger she's about to lose her finger now she's freaking out about it Joe go to bed sweetie love you Hey you're fine you're fine so what I heard it moving I know it fixed the car you guys saw in the footage that there were no leaves on the trees this was filmed months ago this car is a fix for sure I proved the flow issue but I heard it clicking I heard him moving I have Caleb helping me he's out graduated from school now in the footage I said that he's still in school but he's graduated now and I have him back he's working for me now a lot more hours so we hope to produce you guys a lot more videos here coming up both on YouTube and on the premium channel I don't see anything wrong with the valve air flow should push that and it was not able to it was mechanically stuck and the part that I was hearing maybe maybe would have been well I can't simulate it now but pouring a vacuum here that essentially I was hearing that the diaphragm just kinda pull up and then snap back and it was never really it was never really moving cuz this is definitely and I moved in a bunch now but this is definitely uh it's deke it could be just as simple as that that yeah what I was hearing was the diaphragm flex and then release and not a full movement of this valve I mean that's the only thing I think the only way I can explain this not to work is it was stuck if I would put a bead on it some more could unstuck it well is hoping for some hard evidence inside I have none but it is real tight at times it should be oh yeah damn something for some real good camera footage of a stuck valve and I just not happy about that don't know exactly what this spring would do on the end of this I'm not totally sure maybe keep it from fluttering well some bonus footage that all that's gonna do is make you guys question me on my repair but I promise you the vehicle is fixed and I have to has to be has to be that this valve is sticking and the clicking I was hearing was maybe partial movement or just the diaphragm flexing and releasing no other explanation for that all right

Channel: ScannerDanner

Views: 40,785

Rating: 4.8930693 out of 5

Keywords: engine performance diagnostics, technician training, auto technician training, rosedale tech, auto repair, ASE L1, how-to, DIY auto repair, Air pump test, secondary air injection system, air pump solenoid, diverter valve, air switching valve, relay test, solenoid test, P0410, P0491, Ford

Id: V_D2Dy5fCJQ

Length: 56min 52sec (3412 seconds)

Published: Sat Sep 07 2019