Diagnosing BMW (530i) and GM (4.2L) Secondary Air Injection System Faults - P0410, P0411

you know hey everybody can hear me I hope all right let's get right into this guys um today as the title suggests we get a couple of case studies here that we're gonna be talking about secondary air injection systems now not every vehicle out there on the road is going to have secondary air injection it is an emissions add-on I guess I would call it mostly found on California compliant vehicles now before we get into the class I have a pretty awesome announcement to make for you guys for those our spanish-speaking audience out there you maybe have noticed that we've been not doing any Spanish broadcast lately well that's because we've been transitioning and we have a new Spanish instructor here in the building his name is Peter Peter won't you come on out here I'd like to introduce you to you guys our newest member of the wels tech team mr. Peter hello everybody so why don't you just real briefly tell us about yourself well I'm uh about 20 years in the business turning wrenches ran my own shop for almost ten and uh well I taught at BOCES which is a tech school back in New York for about six years so you're coming to us all the way from New York which it was hard to tell you know with the accent yep loving this Wisconsin winter yeah I was chilly this morning a little bit snow on the ground but yeah so peter is going to be starting doing some classes in January or February when we start on the next series today he's going to be helping me out with starting up this BMW behind me we're gonna do a car swap in the middle of this so he is going to get the car out and bring in the Trailblazer in that we have next so you'll seem around helping out today but otherwise for the spanish-speaking audience out there make sure to check back for some Spanish classes starting after the first of the year all right excellent all right word to it tight you guys lots to learn today all right thanks Peter thank you oh and apparently my laptop is saying I have a critical update to install let's hope it doesn't boot me out you want to bring up the laptop screen quick just so everybody realizes that I'm not lying to anybody we have a critical update to install so hopefully this does not are you ready for these and no I'm not ready hopefully that doesn't kick us out all right let's start right in on it guys as the title suggested we are working with some case studies but before we get to that I want to do the tech question let's bring that back up on the screen technician eight Oh first of all guys this one is you know maybe just a hair easier than you're used to but it is the holiday season Christmas just around the corner so I want to hopefully give away some shirts today technician a says that a fuse will blow as soon as the amperage going through it is higher than its amperage rating technician B says it's common for a circuit to momentarily pull amperage higher than the fuse rating without compromising the fuse whose correct a tech a BTech B see both technicians or D neither I'd like for you to go ahead and shoot me out an email to my email address right here and if you could do that by the end of the day you will be entered into win or you will win one of our shirts if you get the answer correct okay that the t-shirt giveaway is only valid for today though you're more than welcome to always comment in the answer to see if you're right you can only win a t-shirt if I get that email by 11:59 p.m. tonight okay all righty let's just make sure that everything's coming through in the comments nice hey there we go all right a lot of people here looks like Eric's here how's it going Eric I think I said hi to just about everybody else is we were waiting and chatting Mike's here Porsche Mike alright should totally change your screen name to Porsche Mike Hector's here Zach's here all right Oh looks like Keith made it alright all right guys let's get into this because I do have a lot I want to talk about today and there's a lot of moving pieces today the cars will be going up and down cameras are gonna be moving it's going to be a crazy fun day so let's get right into it just a quick overview on secondary air it is designed to force air into the exhaust system because cars are notoriously running rich at cold start because they're an open-loop just part of the part of their nature I guess that's that's what they do on cold start so what do we do we pump extra oxygen into the exhaust system and it is intended to help light off the catalytic converters sooner therefore increasing the issue efficiency of our vehicle so we don't kill the ozone one thing to note on secondary air injection systems is we need to as a technician always make sure that we are diagnosing not only the cause our not only the effect of the problem but also the cause many times of secondary error you'll have one part failing but it's being caused by another part you know like we're potentially a worn sparkplug could cause a coil to fail or something like that you have to replace everything that could be causing the issue you know not like what else is a good example something you have a worn out wheel bearing you just replace a wheel bearing right you know there's there's going to be more to these replacements so we'll get to that in just a little bit but the number one I think probably the number one failure that we're gonna find is water intrusion on these systems many of our air pumps are either mounted underneath the vehicle like we'll see on the Trailblazer or in the wheel well like on this BMW you can see that we already have the fender liner ripped out of here to help save some time but the fender liner sitting on the floor over there that does take I don't know 15 minutes or so to rip out of there and you'll see as we look under the hood I got a bunch of other stuff taken off as well to help save some time when we're looking at this a real quick component list on here guys air injection systems will usually consist of an air pump older vehicles would run it on a belt newer vehicles are going to use a high amperage pump that moves a high volume of air 20 30 40 amps is not uncommon for an air pump to pull so we have to have a high current relay that's going to be controlled most likely by the PCM and then we have to have some sort of control valve because we cannot let the exhaust pipe sit open all the time we can't let that allow to force exhaust back into our air pump at all times we only want to open that valve when we're actually creating pressure with our pumps so we have a control valve on there that is going to be doing an forward or no flow basically into the exhaust now that control valve operates many different ways we'll talk about two different ways today we have the hoses and pipes connecting it and then we have to have some sort of verification of flow so similar to evap we have to be able to test the system for failure right anything obd2 has to be tested for failure some vehicles 2005 five series behind me here is going to use a secondary air injection mass airflow sensor stand-alone mass airflow not part of the mass airflow sensor for the engine a standalone mass airflow that is only measuring the air going into the air pump that's what this BMW runs then if we get into our Trailblazer which will be bringing in in just a little bit that is actually going to be using our oxygen sensors to watch for a lean condition to be created when that air pump happens the Trailblazer will actually test in closed loop and it'll turn that pump on for three seconds three different times watching for a lean condition to become present across the oxygen sensors meaning that we're actually flowing air through the system I mean we have to be able to verify and test the system that's where the check engine lights come in your p 0 4 0 1 p 0 4 11 you know manufacturer specific codes get into like p 14 11 14 12 14 18 24 30 24 40 p 0 14 p 0 already set p 0 12 for 12 so there's a lot of codes that's just on the BMW here there's gonna be more related to that unfortunately today guys it doesn't look like i'm gonna have access to all data for whatever reason i'm not sure if it's down for you guys but it is down for me but I do have prints all printouts diagrams and we can grab diagrams here from identify so let's take first of all let's take a look at the wiring diagram for our BMW that's sitting behind me so up on the screen here it's gonna be kind of small let's go ahead and zoom in you can see our three air system components we have a pump over here which is direct grounded behind the right kick panel apparently that runs back to our relay which is for whatever reason oh here's a little bit of extra credit I'll give you another shirt if you can answer this question accurately at to why this part of the relay right here why is it when this relay is off is it run to ground what is the purpose of running this to ground when the relay is off why would we ground both sides of our secondary air injection pump when we turn the coil of the relay on it's going to activate our relay which is a direct fused input which comes from off of the screen but that is from a 60 amp fuse and that's gonna send the power this is gonna switch over send power directly to our air pump from that 60 amp fuse but again why is it that we have this directed to ground it feels like to me this wire was added in for maybe a different model maybe it was just something they already had in there don't know it seems unnecessary though it I have to run a wire here to ground most of the time you'll see this pin right here pretty much going to nothing it opens circuits at at that point turn the coil on bring the switch over inside the inside the relay and run that high amperage to our pump which goes directly to ground and then over here on the left side we have our air flow meter it is a hot film air flow meter and if we look here it looks like black and yellow is going to negative so black and black and yellow will be the ground for our meter pin three black and red is going to be our signal so I already have that back probe to help save some time today we will monitor that on the lab scope and then red and white here is going to go to either the PCM or a fuse in fact I think I have the other diagram here that is going to go to a 30 amp fuse that also tees off to a bunch of other things that 30-amp fuse also feeds the control side of our relay here let's see if you guys can see this unfortunately I didn't have this copied and pasted today because I expected our service information to work but you can see our mass airflow sensor they're running from a 30 amp fuse we get a splice runs over to the control side this guy right here is our air pump relay right here so the PCM commands that grounded and turns on our air pump like so okay that is the way this system operates now this vehicle came in today with the check engine light customer complaint is check engine lights on there's no drivability concerns nothing like that for the system it just is a check engine light on and he is unable to pass emissions so let's take a quick peek at our codes and apparently we have a misfire code here interesting this was not here last time I scanned this thing now this vehicle has been here I diagnosed it about a week ago or maybe a week and a half ago so when I first looked at this this if we can bring up the scan tool this misfire right here and cylinder one misfire was not in here so that's gonna be another problem maybe for another day or maybe this customer was messing around with this car who knows but that is not the complaint today the complaint today is we're talking about this 2761 code which is actually a 411 code if we go back here oh let's see some vehicles you can get generic functions out of here it doesn't look like we're gonna be able to do it on here let's go back real quick and turn this into a generic scan tool so we can get an actual generic number because sometimes it's easier to find information generically rather than looking up the other way so let's see and Peter you got the key on in there right thank you he is sitting in the vehicle right now hopefully not falling asleep so lucky that Jim doesn't have to sit in the vehicle this time like you did in that other class it's upside-down what's upside-down some things upside down okay so we got this pull-up and we're just gonna grab mode three for DTC's and we should in here see ap 0 for 11 there we go p 0 for 11 air system incorrect flow detected so the varus does a little bit better job of telling us what is happening here but then you could go out to your service information which I did in this chart right here which I was hoping to be able to pull up on the screen today but as you guys can tell on the laptop I have I can't get there so let's just pull up the laptop real quick you know I can't can't get there today unfortunately but I'll read off of here what what this is saying it says here a p0 411 is the low flow limit check it basically is watching the signal from the mass airflow sensor and it says here the threshold value is Delta airmass so the change in air mass is greater than point zero point two eight grams per second now the greater than it's kind of weird I think it might be something that might have been lost in translation I would think if we're checking a low flow limit rate we're looking for an air flow that doesn't change or less than I think it was just lost in in translation you know we see that a lot with European and Asian Asian vehicles where things just aren't maybe translated out correctly when they're done in in English so I think what we're looking at here is the change in air mass so the computer is watching our mass airflow sensor and it's looking for this test to change the air mass more than 28 grams per second and if it doesn't if it sees under that or if it sees less than point two eight grams per second well then we're gonna set it cold for a low flow limit okay there's a couple different thresholds here for enable conditions we want to see coolant temp below 69 degrees underneath 3600 rpm and then this is a to trip code on here so what do you do first well I like to do the easiest thing first which on a BMW it's kind of hit and miss on what's easy and what's not luckily the scan tool will allow us what am I doing here the scan tool will allow us to command this thing on and off if we want to bring up the scan tool on the screen now that'd be great see if we're getting into here we go grab a beamer oh five this is an old five 530i with the 3-liter in there and get back into here and what I want to do first I'm just gonna command the relay on if the relay turns on the PCM is is commanding that half of it and we should be you know turning the air pump on it is direct grounded so as soon as the relay turns on and we make contact across that relay our air pump should turn on we'll go back into engine and we'll functional actuator tests and we'll grab the secondary air pump ignition on engine off that is correct right we're good to go and unfortunately we don't have any data pits on here you know be really nice to have a data pit on here for the mass airflow sensor for secondary air right look at the g/s that the mass airflow sensor for secondary air is actually flowing but we don't get that so we'll turn this on and off start stop let's see if I can I don't know if you guys can hear that so it is definitely clicking let's bring up this camera the relay is gonna sit right here and as I turn this on and off trying to get my microphone as close as I can hear you guys but the relay is definitely clicking but you know what I don't hear I don't hear the pump turning on and with this high amperage pump that's on this thing you will definitely hear it when it comes on even if it's mounted behind the splash shield or wherever it might be mounted you will hear these things come on they are pretty loud because they're moving a vast amount of air so I don't hear coming on I guess at this point we have to figure out what's going on we are relays clicking so at this point would you bother inspecting the relay it's kind of a choice that's up to you what's easier to get to the relay or the air pump the relays clicking do you go there first if it's clicking or do you just move that really further down your list and go right to the air pump now for this class today guys I do have the relay box completely available for you guys to see up here it was kind of a pain to get you there's a cover that sits here then there's another cover that sits over this that blocks all of this off and then there's a cabin filter that sits over that it's kind of a pain to get to so maybe in my diagnosis when I'm doing this if the relays clicking I'm probably not gonna go there first I'll probably work towards the pump first and see if I have power down there the other thing I wanted to talk about here and before we bring this thing up in the air I'm gonna go ahead and move the coolant bottle off to the side so you guys can see in here but right here is our valve this is the valve that's going to control flow out of the pump into the exhaust or not not allow flow so this is a mechanical valve on here that operates under spring pressure our pump has to overcome a certain amount of pressure to open this valve and allow our our air to flow out of the pump and into the exhaust system on here this does not have a vacuum hose going to it this does not have power and ground going to it like a cell annoyed this is completely mechanically controlled by pressure now I tested out a new one it does open at roughly two-and-a-half to three psi of pressure to get this guy to open up okay and then also if you look down in here and oh it's gonna be really hard for you guys to see but right where my finger is right here is our filter assembly and you can see I have a lead already hooked up to the mass airflow sensor that is sitting right inside of there so our filter on this system is sitting right here it's got a standalone tiny little air filter it's about this big around and it's got a filter element in there just like any old air filter you know why don't we pull that off it only takes a minute that way you guys can see what it looks like now these filters usually stay pretty clean because if you figure either it's a BMW driving around with a check engine light on and nobody decided to fix it anyway or the pump itself doesn't run all the time right I mean we're only gonna run a minute or two usually at the most when this thing's cold and then it's going to shut off not like your engine air filter that's going to constantly have it be have air flowing through it this is not going to be constantly working so the only time it's filtering air is when the pump is running see we can get this thing off okay so the mass airflow sensor just disconnected if we can maybe maybe you guys can see it now let's take a look at the overhead shot yeah you can see my lead kind of hard to tell now let's see if I can get this filter out of here it's mounted on a rubber grommet and the mass airflow sensor is a single bolt to get it out I think it's a t25 torx probably disconnected my lead right now there we go all right and like with every good BMW things come out nice and easy nice cooler line or AC line mounted in the way but here's our filter and bring it over so you guys can see so our mass airflow sensor mounts directly to here with the screw it's going to mount directly on there and then we have a filter element inside let me grab a flashlight all right so if I can hold this at a decent angle you can see a reddish orange I know it's really hard for you guys to see but there's a reddish orange filter element in there and if you guys could see it as well as I can it's not really that dirty it doesn't look bad at all now it's up to the customer at this point if he would choose to replace it I did a quick look around out on Google and this thing is getting hard to find it's actually been discontinued I believe by BMW so good luck finding one of these brand new but this one seems okay it really does it's not full of dirt or anything like that I don't have anything coming out of it at all if it was black inside if it's full of sand or something like that I'd probably be more prone to replace this now if you've done the work of already getting it out it might be worth replacing it because in order to get this guy out I did have to pull off this right here is the front cover that sits over the radiator it's where the hood latch is mount to so that did have to come off it really doesn't take too much time but it's just another one of those got to take off three different things to get to what you're actually trying to get to typical on a beamer okay let's I think it's to the point now where we should lift this thing up and check our power and ground to our pump let's just see quick if I'm missing anything all right all right Chris you win I think there was a thing out there to see who could make me laugh first and Chris was nice enough to put on here nice but so thanks Chris that's ridiculous but funny I like it alright let's get this thing up in the air I'll show you guys where the where the pump is located [Music] all right that looks good let me bring the camera over guys and we'll take a look at our pump now let's grab a flashlight so you guys can see in here alright how's that hey you can see what's going on good that's a good start to the day alright so normally in here guys you'd have your fender liner and all that fun stuff in the way unfortunately that is already often sitting on the floor over there so it takes a tunnel 10-15 minutes or so to rip it off there's like 13,000 screws holding it in it's slightly over engineered with about seven other shields that have to come off but that's besides the point we have it off and we're getting to our pump right here big old wires run into the Singha like I talked about high amperage to this pump you know 30 40 amps we're gonna run some big old wires going to it you know like like we talked about in that counterpoint video where I was showing the different soldering connections and butt connectors and those kinds of things you can really start to stress the wire once you start flowing a lot of current through it this is no different we can really stress this out so let's just make sure that we don't have the pump actually running turn this on off on off pump is not running I don't hear anything running let's go ahead and unplug it and let's grab a meter and just see what we got with a meter oh my wife wants to retire in Germany I better pay attention all right ah Nick that's a good point it could be a scanner issue but you know Nick - uh - to talk about your point here if the scanner wasn't commanding it properly I wouldn't think I would here the relay click right the scanners job is to tell the PCM basically to make our relay turn on and I know for a fact that the relay is clicking which usually means that it's turning on now that doesn't verify that I have power flow down to the pump but it does verify that the the coil side of the relay the command side of the relay is taking that relay and switching it over which should in theory send power down to the pump so what's that being said let's see if I can find somewhere good to stick this where you guys can see it where there's not a lot of glare how's that look that's pretty good let's see what we got here I'm gonna go ahead I'm going to turn the pump on and it'll apparently stay on for 20 seconds let's just see if I have power in ground I'm just taking my two terminals my meter going across eleven point seven volts you guys should be able to see that I'm just connected across the two leads of the connector so I do have power and ground but at this point guys I don't know if this is a good power in ground because we are not dynamically testing this we're statically testing it I have not verified in any way that I can flow any current whatsoever so I know the relay is turning on I know it's sending power down there but am i able to flow current through this thing so what could you do you can hook up a new air pump or you could put some sort of load into the system now an air pump is an extreme I would I would call an extreme amount of load on an electrical system your tests light is going to draw roughly a quarter amp or so I don't think that's going to be a good test for this you want to have something roughly the same as an air pump so if you have a blower motor or something like that laying around that'd be something good to use you guys saw this bulb in our class this is only running 6 amps so it's not not anywhere close to the 30 that this thing might run on but at least it's something that's able to draw some current so let's just see if this guy works all right let's see if I can do this in 20 seconds I started it we'll set this up here hopefully not have it smash on the ground because that would be just my luck I mean it's gonna happen live if it's gonna happen at all and there we go you guys should be able to see I'll move it out here so and they're just turned off the PCM or the scan tool just timed out it will only run this for 20 seconds I'll do that one more time huh I'm gonna end up dropping it and smashing it on the floor okay super fast here again power and ground running roughly six amps through this bulb right here okay so we are able to flow amperage through the relay down to our pump and good to go hook it to the starter oh jeez I don't think that's the best idea all right so I'm just making sure I'm not missing anything here guys okay so now we know a couple things one our relays functioning we have a good ground we're able to flow six amps through the circuit it's not as much amperage as this pump requires but it is a pretty good amount so what do you do now right up the estimate call it the customer sell the pump right okay that might be the way you want to go and let's see how that would turn out customer proved it new pump sitting here okay it's time to install this new pump first thing let's take off our hose connections at our pump so right up top here this guy right here this is our inlet to the pump it comes into the top side of the pump this is connected to our mass airflow which maybe I can pull through here wires too short but you guys can just barely oh you can't see it at all if I would unplug the connector you'd be able to see it but that's our mass airflow sensor up there so I need to unhook this guy at the top which is usually easier said than done let's see try not to get in the way of the camera looks like I got one of them loose let's grab a pic so you can pop this other one sometimes the pic helps just don't break this because otherwise you're gonna have to replace part of this hose and I hope I didn't just jinx myself all right see how that looks well it's not broken that's a good sign plastic is still intact and so you're supposed to be able to pinch this together and it's supposed to you know move these tabs outwards as you pinch it together one thing to note here guys is as they took this off there's a little bit of water in it okay so we got water on the inlet side that's maybe not a good sign it could be from a little bit of condensation so let's get this guy out of the way and let's pull off our other hose let's try and get this light over here maybe there we go so now we're gonna pull off the outlet side this is gonna be the side of the pump that's gonna force pressure into the exhaust let's pull this guy off oh whoa I hope you guys saw that this pumps full of water that's not good so now you've sold a pump the old pump was full of water but what caused the water to get there what is the issue here that's causing us to have water full of it inside of this thing this thing is full of water a couple different things could be happening one the pumps seals wherever they may be inside here might be failing to the guy could have pressure washed under the hood and sprayed directly into his filter which worked its way down the inlet into the pump and then out of the outlet possible also or it's possible that the valve that sits on the exhaust manifold or on the head on this one is partially leaking maybe or is having issues and it's allowing some hot exhaust gas to basically sit inside the hoses and down inside of our pump now it's not a ton of pressure coming out of air out of our exhaust in a normal operating system you know like tailpipe pressures not very much but it's possible that that hot exhaust gas could be getting itself down inside of this pump and then condensing and when it condenses it creates water moisture problems there's a lot of different issues possibly here but this amount of water they came out of this thing that is no bueno we cannot have that on this thing our pump is almost a hundred percent certain that it is seized up inside from that water but I also have a feeling that our check valve be causing us some issues but let's not take my word for it let's let's hook this guy up and see what we've got alright so plug it in and you know what let's let's see if we can get this old one out first maybe we can dump some more water out of it I don't want this thing to hang by its connector all right let's see what we got all right just to note guys I did find my 10 millimeter short socket that I was looking for during that class where I was doing that trans range sensor found it and actually when I took the the splash shield off on this thing there was a socket sitting in there as well somebody had dropped it at one point when they were working on this car all right whoa so there's a little bit more water coming out and the third one I can't believe these aren't breaking it's my lucky day I didn't even spray them with any penetrating oil or anything did you guys know that they make a set of just ten millimeter sockets you get your 10 millimeter short your 10 millimeter long a swivel a 3/8 a quarter-inch I think there was another one too it's like to replace all your missing 10 millimeters instead of having to buy a full set I thought that was genius by somebody's on somebody's part for that okay let's see here I have a feeling I'm gonna have to oh that is a lot of water feeling I might have to pull this wire connection off the bottom of the pump there we go and hopefully sneak this guy out of here without taking the bracket off well maybe I shouldn't have taken a shower this morning okay so here's our old pump I don't know if you guys can I don't know if you can hear that but it's sloshing back and forth I mean this thing is full of full of water it's junk you know what I think in the check connect episode that's gonna come up at the end of the month I'm gonna set this down before I make a mess more of a mess in that episode guys I am going to have that thing taken apart I want to see inside I want to see what it looks like inside because it is definitely pretty nasty know if I trip and fall on all this water on the floor don't laugh at me please might be kind of funny though anyways let's get this new one in that's not full of water and see what happens and then it does only go in here it's supposed to only go in here one way because we have to connect up our outlet hose so it's going to look something like so beautiful okay let's just bolt this guy down quick [Applause] oka doug is torque to spec all right so we'll torque those later okay so our pumps installed let's get our connector mounted on its bottom bracket here plugged in and let's just connect it up and let's do some current measurements on here all right that one's clipped he's always go back together easier than they come apart make sure clips in place there we go all right pumps installed both hoses are connected like I said I re have the scope hooked up to the mass airflow sensor so let's plug that in and then I also have a current clamp here that we're gonna measure the amperage coming out of or going into coming out of our pump let's peel some tape back here I will retake this when I get done here don't worry nice fiber fiber tape on here get enough room between here to get the ant clamp in that should be good all right let's take a look at what we have is your this out hopefully the amperage is going in the right direction I can see the rims corroding for me you know I don't know if you can see let's bring ya right here when this thing originally came in and I pulled the wheel off this was all corrosion here I had to scrape it down a little bit it does need some anti-seize on there something to help with that okay all right Eric we'll see you later thanks for stopping by okay let's check our amperage on the pump got the skull booted up Here I am using a big amp clamp I'm using a I think we got scroll down let's bring the lab scope up on the screen I'm using a this is a 2,000 amp clamp I'm gonna use it in 200 amp mode and let's grab well this thing's supposed to run the fuse is set at 60 so let's run it at 50 amps let's turn on channel 2 I'd not sure there's a 5 volt or a 12 volt sensor so we'll start with 20 and we'll tweak from there alright it looks like our scope is good to go here let's go ahead and turn this on with the scan tool you guys can hear it runnin that's a good sign and we'll turn it off all right let's stop it and go back a couple pages for that initial turn on whoa so right there it's peeking off the screen so we're over 50 amps let's go ahead and do this again with a hundred amp scale turn it on still peeking off the screen Wow okay stop but you guys notice something already we have no change off a zero for a mass airflow sensor so either have a bad connection or we have no flow try it one more time here so we can catch that peak oh I think I turned it on in between the buffer come haha bad luck let's just up our timescale little we'll go one second okay look at that guy's look at this peak 105 amps see that 105 amp speaking on this thing on the initial turn-on it takes let's throw some cursors up here so from time it turns on to time we're under our fuse we're 60 amps on here we'll call it oh right about there so 61 amps close enough it takes we'll just do it rough here 420 milliseconds so just under half of a second this circuit is sitting over 60 amps and our fuse on this thing like you saw in the diagram is 60 amps so if you haven't answered the question already there's kind of a hint so this thing is able to pull 100 and with what I say it was 105 amps right here crazy but I don't have anything going on on the red line from our mass airflow sensor so it means one of two things either I have a bad connection which I didn't pierce this it is back probed or I have no flow so we'll start by tweaking our connection on here luckily I can get through to the engine compartment from this side we'll tweak that a little bit turn this guy back on and on the sculpt we still don't have anything let's bring up the scope on the screen there we go nothing we're going in the connection okay so it looks maybe like we have no flow let's go ahead and take our output hose off okay so now our output ohs is off all that's connected is our inlet hose which is connected to the mass airflow this thing is just going to force air out here and let's bring up the scope on the screen and let's see what that looks like get the keyboard out of there and I'll wait for it to refresh on the next page hey-oh okay well that's a big difference let's go back a page so now what is our amperage peaking at our amperage peaks at 100 and we're still around 105 ish but now you can see that we definitely have flow here I was putting my hand over the outlet so it looks to me like we have a bad part in our system our valve is most likely the culprit here so like I said early in the class guys you need to make sure that you diagnose the entire system okay so I'm going to bring this thing down and we'll take a look at that valve that's mounted under the hood now if everything goes right here maybe if everything goes right here I'm gonna leave all this connected here guys and we're gonna look at that valve and then run this thing once we get back under the hood okay [Music] hopefully Peters not sleeping you fall asleep no he's not sleeping good I don't know if I could be as strong as you I've been napping okay so like I said our valve is mounted right here now quick easy test that we could do let's just pull this off this is our hose going to it this is coming out of our pump which is now connected at the other side on our pump let's turn this thing back on turn our scope on and our scan tool will turn it on all right that was quick and easy so we have flow we know that our hose right here we know this hose is not blocked we know that we have flow through this hose I bet our problem is lying right here let's this to ten millimeter nuts on there we'll pull that off hopefully not drop them hopefully they come off almost dropped it there's one and two okay so this is what it looks like up close and personal tiny little valve and as you guys can see nowhere on here is a vacuum port nowhere around here is a cell annoyed that you're going to connect to power and ground okay one thing to note inside of here this is all corroded in here I don't know if we're gonna be able to see again this might be something that you guys will have to come back for the tech connect episode to see but tons of corrosion inside of there so the water most likely affected this valve as well now what about after the valve what about the exhaust system itself could it cause problems definitely we could have a problem in the exhaust system Peter could you go ahead and fire this thing up what we're gonna check for right now is four outlet exhaust gas coming out of this hole right on here because this should be we should be able to feel exhaust coming out of here just like it be out of the tailpipe okay go ahead oh yeah alright so it actually kicked our air pump on that's funny but I could and I'm sure you guys could hear it it sounded like a giant exhaust leak we have exhaust coming out of there that means that after the valve to the exhaust system is free of restriction it is time to put a new valve in which just so happens to be on the table next to me now I don't know about you guys but I like to verify parts so this old one we're thinking we can't do anything with it and that's true I can't blow through it at all the new one again these take about two-and-a-half to three psi to open I can definitely blow through it but it is hard to blow through it's not a stuck open valve but it is hard to blow through the one other test that you would want to do for this is you would want to start the vehicle up and we'll do it in just a second but start the vehicle up with this valve attached and make sure that you're not having any exhaust gas come out of it that would mean that the valve is leaking so there's two failures I guess a stuck closed valve or a partially stuck open valve okay so we're gonna go ahead and stall this guy back on here our new one and now after after the class is over guys you know we're not gonna put the fender liner and stuff back in today I'm gonna clean up the mounting surface for this thing it does need to be cleaned up in a new gasket installed but just for time constraints today guys I want to just do this very quickly for you guys so we can move on to the next vehicle and not waste everybody's time the diagnosis is true in here just when you're doing this you'd want to clean up the mounting surface at this thing mounts on all right and tighten this one down and Peter cuz you start to sing up one more time I want to make sure I don't have any exhaust gas coming out of our valve and our pump turns on okay that's good so this thing keeps trying to turn on the pump but it definitely turned on and I had no leakage coming out of there so connect up our hose and let's just run it one more time with the scan tool and make sure now with the system fully intact this thing flows oh look at that alright hang on one second let's throw a channel 3 on here I want to show you guys the time delay that this thing takes we're can I grabbed a ground ball maybe right here everything's painted under here let's try it let's try this I want to just grab a voltage here hopefully and let's see see if that's right so channel see here our third channel is gonna come in and it's gonna be the voltage command there we go so our voltage is commanded alright here's what I want to show you guys look at the command time here so our relay clicked on our PCM turned it on right here we see our green channel come up - battery voltage but we don't see our flow happen until change between your Delta between your 8-point our 867 milliseconds which is just under one second so it takes almost a full second for this pump to build enough pressure to overcome the spring that is in this valve now this is known good these are two brand new parts on here you guys could treat this as a known good design you want to see that you want to see your pump control and your your current or your spike on mass airflow you want to see that in roughly one second or so is the time delay between their temperature will most likely affect this but you want to see it happen roughly in that that amount of time if you're seeing this happen you know way over here it's taking down oh four seconds for this thing that to open and start to see some mass airflow movement here you might have a seizing or sticking outlet valve okay we want to see this happen we want to see our mass airflow respond roughly in a second or so from turn-on of the pump okay all right you know I think that maybe maybe is just about everything for our BMW here today guys what do you think are there any questions comments concerns related to this BMW does anybody want to see anything else Krista's internet quit he wants to start over not gonna happen my throat is gonna be raw by the end of this but Chris you know like always you can always view the video afterwards so any other questions comments on this one Keith's talking about cleaning the passages that is a good idea the speedo cable on a drill I've seen that before there's actually a company out there that makes a tool for doing a lot of these um BMWs which is basically that can we run the monitor on here I wonder let's see oh I think did you turn the key off okay keys off already okay no that's fine we'll just move on to the next one it's already been 55 minutes sorry Keith we're not gonna run the monitor today the scan tools already disconnected in the keys out so we are gonna move this thing out though and we're gonna bring in the Trailblazer to go over that secondary air system it is a little bit different we got a different failure around there so Peters gonna go ahead and get that hooked up and taken care of for me thank you Peter um let's see here if there's anything else that I've missed you guys are very talkative I just want to actually copy these comments because I don't want to lose him Pete is excited to move on he was stuck in that car for a while 45 minutes in there and I probably would have been napping looks like I might have missed some of the comments you guys were talkative today all right let's scroll through you can bring the comments up on the screen Glen thank you hook it to Ivan's homemade Christmas tree lighting yeah we could have done that Bob says water imagine that just goes to show how many how many times air pumps have water in him eric says water pump or air pump that's a that's a good point for some reason these things are just so common for water in them Frank's got five ten millimeter sockets yeah air system needs a catch can that's true I was thinking you could use one of those bleed off valves that that bleeds off pressure at when it when it drops or bleeds off when it's a low low pressure like on air air tank system like in your garage you get under five psi or something and it allows the valve to drain all right let's see here EXO sports Kevin said he's 50 in fuse on this one it is running a 60 amp fuse Mike said Peter Mike said wow magic the parts show up right away all right let's I agree I think it should get a drainage tube I mean really guys these systems we all know it already there so so common for water intrusion on them they should have some sort of drainage built in you know would probably increase the longevity of these things like like crazy yep I I agree with you Keith that that Valve being stuck open allowing exhaust to end up down into the donor that pump alright Peters gonna bring in the Trailblazer and we're gonna get to that now in the meantime let's go over a little bit of the system let's see if we got any all data functioning okay unfortunately not who the camera gets screwy when we open up the garage doors it's nice and sunny outside as you guys can see in wonderful Fondulac no snow on the ground right now but it is nice and sunny out today sunny and cold all right let's bring that back over so let's talk about our Trailblazer let's first of all grab a wiring diagram now my favorite part about this Trailblazer was the amount of information they actually had for this thing so this is a 2005 Trailblazer with our good old straight six for two and we'll just grab a color diagram and find somewhere in here here's our secondary air injection selling Lloyd will grab that all right what do we got here so right here is our secondary air injection pump relay all right that's gonna be running directly from a 60 amp fuse let's zoom in on this so you guys can see a little better 60 amp fuse directly running to our relay when the relay is turned on it switches our contacts over sends that 60 amp capable power down to our pump which is directly grounded on the left rear the frame near the fuel tank there's never gonna be any rust or corrosion there at all and then our relay here is I'm gonna assume ground side controlled by the PCM we could trace this out and find it and then here's our solenoid relay this guy is powered up by 15 amp fuse fuse 54 this is powering up a relay that's going to control our cell annoyed for our air injection so on this Trailblazer instead of it being this let's go ahead and reset the camera there we go so instead of it being a mechanical valve like this it is actually a electronic cell annoyed that is opening and closing by commuter command like a purge solenoid or something like that all right we good thank you very much sir Aki on scan tool in it prop rod thank you sir okay okay so I think you guys should be able to see okay here I've already taken the airbox off of this thing oh let's see we can turn these headlights off quick there we go otherwise we'll end up with a dead battery I'm already taking the airbox off here because what I want to do is I want to show you guys the solenoid on here eight millimeter all right pop that off now right here guys this is important right here this is the inlet to our pump like on our BMW we had it connected to its own air filter you can see on this vehicle it is connected inline going to our engine okay so we're gonna take filtered air through our engine air filter and it is going to be drawn into our pump that way okay so looking at this thing I already see something interesting this guy has been replaced brand-new part not for me our solenoid has been replaced on here let's see if we can get a closer shot doo doo doo doo doo [Music] all right so right there's our solenoid this is going to be opening and closing the path to the exhaust so just like our mechanical solenoid that was opening and closing the path that's what this guy's gonna do electronically the computer is gonna command it two wires here but this one is already brand new so somebody's been in here playing around on this thing before go figure see that all the time right alright so as you guys can hear the alarms are going off in here that's alright let's grab the engine computer and let's take a peek at what codes we've got in this thing all right we got a p0 410 trouble code something to do with secondary air injection which we kind of already knew now let's take and I wanted to show you this guy this up on the screen guys but unfortunately this is still not functioning I don't know what's going on over there but something's not working with our other repair resource so luckily I did have it printed off GM is awesome they gave us a full page and the top of another one with specs related to the secondary air injection system it says here I'll just read some of the highlights that this system is going to function when the vehicle coolant temperature is between 37 and 122 degrees Fahrenheit and the IAT has to be greater than 32 degrees so we don't want this thing starting up when it's frozen hmm water issues frozen inside of a pump could cause damage to the system now I like here that they actually give us specs it says the air pump for our 4.2 liter engine will draw a steady 35 to 40 amps under normal operation if we look at we must have had that turned off at that point darn I thought I had that well if we looked at our current done on the BMW it's probably about 25 amps or so was with what we were pulling I don't think that's yeah okay well we had it on there I don't know if maybe a clamp fell off or turned off at that point or whatever it was pulling 25 amps or so so we'll see what this air pump pulls the other thing is that it tells us about our air shutoff valve this electronic solenoid under the hood is four to seven ohms and it should run at two to three and a half amps to open up that cell annoyed so it's nice that they give us this the specs right it's nice it that they have that so the customer complaint on this thing is intermittent check engine light and intermittently it smells like something's getting hot when he pulls it into the garage it smells like something's hot almost like burning plastic something just isn't quite right with this thing said it's been happening for a little while he pulled the codes and he ins all that part on there but to no avail so same thing with this thing we're going to go ahead and we're going to run a functional test and we're gonna try and turn this air pump relay on so as you can see on the scan tool actually will back up one here doo doo doo doo doo as you can see in here we have air pump relay but nowhere around here do we have air pump and then air pump sell annoyed it's not there's not two different controls this thing will actually turn on both relays with one command alright so on-off on-off I can hear the relays clicking but you guys probably can't right now because of the alarm but if we will under the vehicle we should be able to hear these relays clicking on and off I can definitely hear them so I guess at this point it's time to go down to the pump again right we're turning the relay on it's commanding on but I can't hear the pump turning on and maybe it's too loud in here right now I'm not sure but let's uh let's go underneath and see what's going on with this one now the Trailblazer is kind of nice it is relatively easy to get to you don't have to take anything off to get to the pump it is mounted on the frame rail right near the ABS module [Music] and hopefully we don't hit the camera [Music] move it okay [Music] [Music] all right there we go let's go underneath and first of all let's grab the flashlight and take a peek underneath so this thing's possible it's supposed to be an under hood light but it kind of works nice under the car as well against the tires like so alright let's take a peek at what we got out of here all right so you guys can see there is our air pump nice and easy to see hoses going right to it these are Inlet and outlet hose so just like our air pump that was on our Beemer the inlet is actually marked with an arrow right here that is their Inlet going into the pump and here is our outlet Peter would you mind turning the scan tool on and off for me so he's gonna go ahead and click this on our relay is actually mounted right back here all right so they're really clicked again off go ahead okay our relays clicking so again we have our relay clicking now on the backside of the pump back here is our actual connector you can turn it off for now I'm gonna go ahead and plug the connector let's take a peek at what we have going on here all right so is this figure out which one's connector side and harness side all right so I think you guys can see that yeah there we go this is the harness side so let's take our meter and see if we got voltage thank you [Music] Hey look at that you can see it all right just real quick all right off that's odd we got 1.2 volts on there right now and it's Oh get my arms out of the way on okay we got voltage off huh we still got one volt sitting on here right now well isn't that interesting all right so we know we got power down there when we're supposed to we know this thing is able to power it up man I wish this fan would shut off we know it's able to power up but we don't know if it's able to pass any current through it yet so let's again we'll just grab our headlight six amps on a 35 or 40 amp running pump should suffice kind of hide that up here again hopefully not drop it could you go ahead and turn that on for me off on my relays clicking well we got nothing okay so this is where it gets interesting right we're not passing any current through this thing it's not doing its job we have voltage there but we have no current to now this is where voltage drop testing comes in handy right if you would have just replaced a pump after you check for power the scars coming back it's coming back in a day or two or whenever it runs the test next it's gonna have issues because and actually I don't have any power feeds down here right now but we could run this pump and this pump will function let's go ahead and turn the meter back on there we go and I believe one of these big red wires here actually let's move these out of the way see if there's any water in this thing hey you know water that's a good sign so we got no water in this one that's a plus right off the bat and you guys should be able to see the relay now there's no real a big old relay two big wires going to it let's see if this is our input side which would be powered up at all times 1.2 volts let's look at our other side nothing can you go ahead turn it up not uh well this is interesting isn't it turn it off so one of these should show power here because in our wiring diagram one side of the relay is turned on at all times right going to our relay it is a direct 60 amp fuse going through this thing and I know I have power there I must just have a bad connection somewhere let's see if we can find an on rusty ground easier said than done sometimes one volt well maybe there we go bad connection another reason why I suppose I should be piercing my wires but alright so there's our inlet side we are showing eleven point seven eight which is battery voltage currently on the input side so if we were to do the good old voltage drop test what we're gonna do here if we go ahead and look up the wiring diagram what I want to do is I'm gonna go ahead and you could go from anywhere in the power side you could start at the battery probably want but you want to check the same side of the circuit while it's energized so I'm gonna just go ahead and stick one lead in here and my other lead in here and see if we're dropping our voltage across our relay our relay maybe the problem that's maybe what I'm suspecting to be a problem we could have bad wiring somewhere else but let's go ahead and do a voltage drop across the relay so right now we're just gonna measure the difference between either side of the relay so when it's off like this we should read ground or we should read 12 volts because if we look if it's off like this we should here we're hooked in and here we're hooked in we should read 12 volts right now because this is grounded at all times if I had the connector plugged in so I plug our connector back in again when your voltage dropping you need to have the circuit intact and you actually need to turn the load on but with a path to ground there we go so across our relay right now we're dropping eleven point seven seven volts which I would expect to see that's normal that is what we'd expect to see when the relay is not energized because again pin 30 has 12 volts at it at all times and pin 87 is currently directly connected to ground through our secondary air injection pump okay so as soon as we turn this guy on there should be no difference across our relay our meter should go practically to zero because our load at this point consumes our voltage not our relay so if we see anything other than 50 millivolts under 50 millivolts if we see anything higher than that we have an issue on this relay let's go ahead and turn that on let's take a look is it uh I heard it click to or still reading battery voltage okay again so we'll even though our relay is clicking doesn't necessarily mean that it's working let's give it a couple taps is it on just still nothing okay you can turn it off so even though our relay is currently turned while it was turned on we were still dropping our full voltage across this relay and I know you guys probably can't see it yet but I can see a burn mark on this relay but let's just verify real quick with a piece of wire make sure this pump works because again right you check for power and ground if you ordered a pump and installed it this customer is gonna be back let's see here well I would say that our pumps working just fine our pump is pumping it's doing its job it's creating air but I real a right now is failing us let's see what it takes to get this guy off ten millimeter socket so even though we had voltage power and ground going to our secondary air injection pump if that's all the further you go with the test you are going to be in trouble we need to verify that the system is able to move current is able to flow current through it otherwise you are gonna have an upset customer who's going to be coming back with the exact same complaint this pump so far shows nothing wrong with it and of course I back to my relay up against the connector my ratchet up against the connector here oh-oh-oh Houston we've got a problem well I think I I think I found where that smell is coming from it is stinky here what do you guys think that's a no one good relay huh look at the underside oh maybe I'll get some pictures with the microscope of this thing but there's actually melting maybe you see that grab flashlight there's actually melting going on yeah look at that you can see it's burnt it's definitely some melting happening here this really is toast now the question is what caused it did the relay go bad and caused this or did the I don't forget this up today hoping yeah we'll save it for the tech connect I'll have this thing opened up and we'll look at it under the microscope but again secondary injection is this the cause of the effect of the problem let's take and magic parts again let's take and install a new relay on here and let's do some current testing on this thing and see what this pump pulls one other note guys if we look at this connector and you might not be able to see it but there's burn marks on this connector and this pin right here you're showing burn marks and a slight amount of corrosion we have an issue with this connector let's go ahead and plug this in just for now this is temporary you're not going to bolt it up anything like that can you go ahead and cycle it on for me please so we saw the meter right here go down to like what 48 or 46 millivolts that is our voltage drop across the relay at this point that means that we're not losing voltage crossing our relay meaning we're giving the full voltage over to our pump our pump is consuming our full amount of load so our new relay is functioning but guys this is where you need to have a conversation with your customer right this is where sir or ma'am I found a bad relay on your vehicle this relay is melted this is going to allow the system to not function but you also have a pigtail that is starting to show burn and corrosion and that could be a cause of high resistance in the future would you like me to replace that as well our customer chose to replace it unfortunately I don't have the new connector here today but it will get replaced as soon as the new connector shows up so this thing for sure needs a relay I would recommend a connector but again it's up to your customer well let's take a peek at what amperage this thing actually draws for the system so our other I don't know if this is gonna be long enough nope our other system on the BMW drew a peak of 105 I believe amps let's see what this one does now this is the original hmm this is the original pump on here I think I put my hook away not enough range could you uh could you hold this for me Peter thank you guys it's good to have Peter around here to help all let's separate this out a little bit and I just want to grab one of these big power wires here and just current clamp it and see what we got all right let's start this back up I'll leave all the settings the same I'll turn off these other channels we're only gonna look at one channel you can bring up the lab scope come on all right bring that up to zero okay go ahead turn that on whoa right off let's do that again oh look at that 130 yeah well call it 130 looks pretty close yeah 130 amps this thing pulls on initial startup now it only does that for a very short amount of time but that's still a huge amount of amperage let's see how long it stays above its fuse so here's 60 amps call it now right about there so so what is that a third of a second or so point or three hundred and thirty-five millivolts have milliseconds so a third of a second or so it stays above it's control so this pump right now that's on this vehicle is drawing 130 amps at peak turn on let's compare it to a new one let's see we got I have a new one here I don't think this thing's going to need it I think our pump on here is okay but let's just compare it to a known good and see what we've got that way you guys have the spec on a known good pump as well this thing is brand-new this is not a remand pump it is completely brand new like so and we're still going to be connected in the same place I'd really rather not leave this hang here might just have to for this it'll just run for a second yep oh I got it and we'll get rid of our cursors okay let's bring up the scope again let's see what a new one runs whoa that won't even higher go ahead next time is lower let's let it come to a full stop I think takes a while to wind down alright go for it alright so it's pulling the brand-new one is pulling even more a hundred and forty five hundred forty six amps and then consistently these things are pulling call that consistent 30 amps look at that 30 amps right there 31 amps which is in spec right the GM spec is between 30 35 and 40 amps to draw on this thing so this this pump that is on the vehicle in comparison to our known good they are both fully functional I don't think we have any other issues with this system this solenoid is okay and that one is opening and closing okay it is a brand new part that the customer put on here the problem in this thing was a bad relay set this back off to the side I don't think I'm gonna recommend to the customer to put a pump on this one I mean it's up to the customer at the end of the day but I think the proper fix on this is a new relay a new pigtail and I think it'll be good to go again up to the customer if he wants to put a pump on it or not but the amperage specs are in spec and the peak is about equivalent to a brand new one so that is that if you have voltage at your pump you might not be able to pass current that's where voltage drop testing comes in we have to make sure that we are fully testing this alright soeul magic part see let's see any other anything else that anybody anything else that anybody else wants to see on this thing with the lab scope voltmeter scan tool anything else that you guys are looking forward to be able to see on here otherwise I think it's about time to wrap it up it's been almost an hour and a half here ah atom one here says new bearings have more drag than older ones sure right the the new bearings are packed nice and tight in there could be a little bit a little bit stiffer of a turn and you know a little bit harder to turn it's gonna draw more amperage makes sense break in time for the new pump sure all right man this this is like watching a cooking show where they magically taken already baked cake out of the oven it is almost just like that you know a lot of times guys these cars have to come in ahead of time we'll usually diagnose them ahead of time because I need to be able to have the parts here to show you guys knowing good it's just kind of nice I feel like the video would be incomplete if we weren't able to show you guys unknown good at the end you know we kind of kind of leave you hanging would have to do a pump part too so I like the I like being able to have the parts here and I'll usually have more parts than necessary I'll usually order one part for each of the system and then return what I don't use pull the known-good cam and crank I might just do that you know that's a good thing if you guys ever have five or ten minutes some take longer but to pull known-good kamek rank correlation off of a vehicle that's not currently coating it's always a good thing to do when you bring it into the shop that way you end up with a database full of known goods when you're diagnosing VVT issues or something on these four twos all right guys I think that's about it thank you Peter for all your help today looks like Bob's got to go with time to get back to work all right guys thanks for watching I hope everybody has a happy holiday season we have a couple more videos coming out yet before the end of the year but then make sure to check back the first week in January for the next one when we go out live then Peter will be starting up some Spanish training as well so that's gonna be it for today the magic parts aren't real iron huh you know I kind of wish you had like a magic screwdriver or something you just have to wave it and parts would appear maybe pretty sweet all right guys that's gonna be it thanks for watching if you liked what you saw please please give us a thumbs up subscribe shoot me out an email right here shoot me out an email with your answer to the t-shirt giveaway question if you were paying attention I think you should probably have the answer but go ahead shoot me out an email with that and check us out on social media Facebook Linkedin Instagram and Twitter search for wells via collect Ronix or follow the links that are down below in the description of the video that's going to be it guys and have a safe and happy holidays if I don't talk to you before then and we'll see you guys after the first of the year happy have it have a great day and happy wrenching everyone thank you you

Channel: GoTech

Views: 20,526

Keywords: wells, training, bmw, e36, e45, e54, e60, n52, e61, e63, e64, p0410, p0411, 2761, injector, a.i.r, failure, code, emissions, fault, problem, valve, exhaust, check, solenoid, vacuum, hose, catalytic convertor, 4101, gm, trailblazer, 4.2, straight, six, p0491, p1411, p1412, p1418, p2430, p2440, p0414, p0412

Id: tP8GMJzISsE

Length: 89min 44sec (5384 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 07 2017