13B Race Rotary engine build - Comprehensive START to FINISH guide | fullBOOST

so thanks for joining us today we're going to run over a really comprehensive guide are building a race built 13b rotary engine from start to finish including all the machining steps as well as final assembly so come join us now I'm gonna take pity on this poor little keg here and put it up we picked up a few things that we want to look at give some more attention to so that rear plates got a little nick on it we want to step up this engine we want to go to a semi peepee so we're gonna get some new housings and we'll give it the semi peepee treatment so stand by for project redline 2.0 so obviously got everything laid out here but before we get to this step to building the engine there's a lot of steps that go on before that so such as machining these rotors and the assembly of the rotors prepping porting and painting of all the engine components here measuring the journals and the crank as well as inside the rotors and the stationary is we've got to set make sure we set top dead center timing and then we've got a whole eeper tools here which you may or may not have seen before so what we're gonna do is first of all before we get building the engine run over some of these tools that we use and how we get to the point right here so if you want to do it at home you'll be able to there's a lot of machinery a lot of expensive machinery that I use here which is why a lot of people take these engines to professionals to get built but we're going to show you how we do it here and let's take up a final look at some of the stuff we've got on the bench right now alright so one of the first things I do before I start building an engine is using this tool here which is a top dent setter check fixture it's from extreme rotaries and what it does is it locks the eccentric shaft in place on the front iron and then you can get your pulley mount your pulley to the front and with the timing cover there's a marking pointer for timing here so what happens is with the with the shaft in the engine mounted this will spin around here and you can see I've already put a fair mark in there I know because I've already used this tool that that mark right there is actually true top dead center for this engine now there's different pulleys in different mouse you can see it's gonna be hard to see but there's a mark there and another mark there they're the factory marks there's no guarantee that those marks are spot-on for every engine whenever you're changing parts and that so one of the biggest things with rotors at timing is you know too little timing couldn't lead to high a GTS and down on horsepower too much timing could lead to you know the engine blowing up as well too so timing is really really critical rotor engine so I use this always with every engine I build to properly dial in true top dead center so I know when you go to tune the engine that everything is right there so next part move along to especially when disassembling engines and then reassembling is an inside and an outside micrometer so what these do is this can go in here or in here it measures the the ID of the bearing and that corresponds to the dimensions here so the difference between this dimension and say this dimension in here is your bearing clearance now that's important because in race engines different depending on the greater oil you're using but also for clearance reasons of running higher oil pressure you may want a higher clearance here so we measure these surfaces corresponding with the rock bearings in the in the rotor and the stationary gear and that will give us our overall bearing clearance and when if we need to alter bearing clearances there are different methods on getting those numbers you can either change machine off a bit off the etc shaft or you can get better clearance our bearings as well so there's also a few other different ways of doing we won't cover those off but Nexen tools is this one's essentially sort of run out or or face wear so what this does a dial indicator goes in here and you can actually measure on the on the surface of the face wear marks so what what you want is there's obviously tolerance route mezda this is what the face wear has to be and this this tool helps measure measure that so it's another one this is one I use for measuring apex seal width so obviously the apex seal fits in in here and I'll just grab obviously the eye picture is already in general just grab an older one because I do have one here but sometimes when you get a Pixies they're not always handsome it's a it's a large process and it may not they may not be exactly spot-on so if we use this tool here you can see that fits in there perfectly look and I just dropped the corner piece but that's that's how I measure that and if they if it doesn't fit in there then it's just a simple case of machining it on on something like this on a block and getting it down to the right Horan so is that we've got our water pressure tester system so this bolts onto the front iron and just a normal sort of trader valve here we pump air pressure into about say 15 or 20 psi we leave it leave it for half an hour or an hour and we check for pressure drop if there's no pressure drop then it's good to go put it in the Carson to the customer if there is pressure drop then well you've got a problem and you have to chase it so it could be water seals not sealing somewhere you've pinched one or an o-ring or something or somewhere else is leaking on the system and just you don't need to find it but that's a perfect one if you're going to give a customer an engine to make sure you do the simple checks before it goes out the door I've got dial indicator here so this is to check the end float of the engine so the engine isn't just static in the carpet or the eccentric shaft isn't static in the car it obviously has some form of float so this dial indicator measures that float in point zero one of a millimeter increments so we've got a tolerances from Asda that we need to keep inspector we'll run over that later and then of course we're going to standard tools such as about two different torque wrenches so one for you know larger torque settings for 40 plus new tomatoes and this one's for the smaller bolts so that like the m6 sort of bolts and then we've got other stuff like gaskets and oil and a couple of different torque wrenches and some other hand tools as well so not to mention all this stuff we've also got a mill up here and just over here we've got a lathe yeah these are two really expensive tools and this is the kind of stuff that a lot of people if you are looking to do stuff yourself you're probably going to have to send stuff this stuff out to get done because these machines aren't cheap at all so but that's pretty much it full of machinery let's take a closer look at how we can put all this into action and start machining this engine so it's ready for assembly so studying the engine involves screaming studs in here that go all the way through the engine so they'll go all the way through here and all the way through these plates and then come out the back here and then a stud clamps just clamps that whole engine up together so what we need to do is trim the hole all the way through that that's that's half-inch diameter and - and it needs to be perfectly spot-on so obviously we're drilling a half-inch hole and a half inch stud the tolerances are really really really tight if you've got you know the guys were seen season that we'll do it easily they press a button on the machinery gets done but how can you do it at home with say a drill press and mike has a bit of mill the mill makes it a bit easier drill press we can still do it what I do is my two tools essentially almost the tools are this so the thread in here is m10 by 1.0 it's very very fine thread so I've got what I've got here is a tap and what I'm going to do with that is I'm gonna move the Roisin head down into position so this isn't bolted on now it's not coping in place you can see it's actually it moved the plate over to where it wants to be what's happening is that's threaded in there that's that's picking up the plate so I know that that is perfectly locked on in that throat and what that means is that now this whole column is completely centered on that hole it's higher than this down to but that's fine see now it's not moving it's actually always have the column there really loosen as you can see there it's trying to pull the collet out so all three nails just unthread it I've pretty much drew all the holes so all you'll see me doing is the final dreaming process now so I will run this through but you'll see we stack up this sandwich basically here now 1 2 3 4 5 all the way up to the top and we'll run the Rema through each one so we'll run through that now just before we get started it's September here in Melbourne and I know it's sometimes cold down here but know that no joke feels like 0.9 fills every bit of that - ah it's tough flight Eddie everything out right sometimes [Music] okay so what the room is gonna do is stop that hole there and give it a nice true round hole for the drill bit to go all the way through so next if we're gonna look at here is the brokest so when it comes through Racing type engine preparation we want to clear in certain areas so you would have seen on our previous the rebuild it had some race clearancing done so just to explain what we're going to do here is pretty much off the entire surface of this space we're going to remover a very very small amount then in the corners and the tips here we're going to remove another certain small amount again across this edge here we're going to remove a certain amount across the face here in between this combustion chamber pocket we're going to remove a certain amount and also across the the top of the apex heel tip of the rotor we're going to remove a small amount as well and the reason for that is at extreme high rpm these areas are prone to contacting there the housing surface or even on the surface so it's going to be really really hard to pick up on camera but like I said this was the stock engine out of my FD and that engine was just I mean it was a turbo bridgeport this engine was built by another workshop that I like when I bought the car it was already sort of done the secondary bridge board and that so but everything else in it was stock so this engine was exactly it was stock except for that one we stripped it down had that one down in the rear I'm going through the entire engine but that was it but I mean it was basically standard on that so there was no machine work there's no real other porting work and the housings or anything just a little secondary bridge but you know no race clearancing or machining in that and you can just see here you can see what looks like a light like machining marks and that's one more because that surface has big heart has come in contact with the housings perhaps BB the plate sorry because it's the Oni it's the only sort of wear mark I can see all across the face so these engines obviously design to rev you know they really don't like revving to nine and a half thousand rpm and then banging off the rev limiter which I did a few times in this thing so bit of clearancing will sort that out and that's what we're going to do now today okay so we're going to set up in the lay here what I'm doing now is just got a dial indicator on the face they just want to make sure what the right at is so it's pretty it's basically better than 0.01 of a millimeter so that is exactly squared up in there so that's great so next step is this tool here which is like a carbide cutter we can bring this hole use the handle bring it in so this will spin around and then we can take a certain amount off the face so let's do some of that there there we go nice machine surface so we'll continue that and we'll take another little bit off here as well now so important part of any building and machining anything is to make sure it all goes together properly before you build it you don't want to find it you've got a problem or really tight clearance or something doesn't go together after you're halfway through building the engine because here almost at the point of no return there and you're in some real trouble so have a look here and you can see we've got all the studs we down left this one is as doubt because that's how it was a real is already down this we just read drilled the housings for the teeth to fit the Dell but all these studs now a bottom now they go on perfectly so unless we know that's done next part you can see it's obviously filthy next part is to give it a bath and then we'll paint it so next parts paint not really fast that much of our paint and paint schemes some people are really really particular when it comes to what color their engine is they spend more time talking about how they want it painted than anything else and fantastic if that's what floats your boat no problems a lot of people will build a lot of very nice cars that obviously there are color schemes and things like that no problems I'm more than likely going to paint this thing black been helping here what are you gonna use to clean it then [Applause] they're obviously aluminium these are steel and there's machine liners and stuff here too so the faces of these and also the ions of that if once you use a chemical to clean them off and they're completely I mean these ones it's still a little bit residual Hema but if these were photons and brand-new what you'll see is you can always see here little bit of surface rust start straight away so always spray that the face surface of the plates with some form of anti corrosion inhibitor even I mean the rust can start just from the Atmos to the water in the atmosphere so just because they're dry it doesn't mean they won't rust if they're completely naked and bare surfaces so little tip just spray oil is freely oiling in bearing sort of services to oil passages so there is no rust there possible getting in there either even coats going on it some color on there so fancy one of the last parts before building engine means making sure that all the little seals and whatnot right marked upper spec and all the altars are correct side seals are one of the things that will need to be machined to live quite a lot because they do come the Power Co ones and oversize so you can make them fit so you can do your own inspector tolerance it's the way you want it this is the rig that I used to do that it's very simple just get a side seal in here and just get in there machines away we bring it out and they're just machines in it machines that away there to the right towards the road one of the good rotors it's just sitting under here now this my cage rule can you see that's too thin so use that and once that can actually finally pass through the gap then we're good to go and we've got to do that 12 times so you do that to all these side seals here once that's done move on to other stuff like measuring the bearing tolerances housing width apex seal with it a lot kind of stuff and yeah that'll be about it then it's finally time to assemble so it's free assembly time which means going to put those o-rings in those cases put those springs in these rotors and also assemble all this stuff here so these have been individually machined to the exact tolerances here so you can see here says three rear here we've got rear three and rear three that G means gear side so I know that this exact site so this one right here goes right there because every every single groove may be just slightly different so you've got to do this otherwise you know tight tight tolerances I mean you know mm between two thousand five thousand mean you know quite a fair few compression points so go get it all spot-on this is how I don't Center all that and time to assemble basically everything there so time to get the massive tub of Vasser so if the oil control o rings are installed as I told you install the springs first you may or may not have color paint on your oil controlling Springs so you may have white and black if you do have white and black water black sorry if you may have white and blue I've ever worn and blue and then new Springs it makes it a bit easy to install white goes to the front of the rotor so not the gear side the front so this is the front rotor so this makes this the front of the rotor this is the rear rotor this is the front of the rear rotor okay so the engines rotating this way so it's very important that these Springs are installed in the right on the correct side because if not the spring won't be able to seat in the little groove so just give you a bit tough to see this there's a little divot right here if you don't have any any paint at all on the spring it's it's pretty easy in the end to find out what size what side these go in because we drop that spring in there and try and drag it around and if your imagining the rotors rotating this way the seal is actually trying to pull on it the other way putting on forcing you see it doesn't move that groove now if I put wrong seal in here for trouble now you just wanna these ones let me get it out of the pan here we go and we do the same force you see it spins what you mean they won't seal properly and it's definitely no good so definitely get that right easy easy easy wonderful people who don't have any experience with rotaries to get it wrong but yes if if this spring's have the blue on the white paint I definitely try and get those ones if this is something you haven't done before because you can't make a mistake then the front of the front rotor front of the rear rotor white rear of the front rotor Rev the rear rode up blue so I want to throw these in here now building an engine it was one and this inner spring is much easier to get in than the outer generally so I'll be putting the camera down now and putting that rear in with two hands so next is making all of this here disappear into these through things here so first things what I'll do is corner seals and side seals and APEC seals flip it over do corner seals side seals again and then basically glue elysium with Vaseline so it holds in place and then I'll do the same thing with a rear rotor yeah when we drop them in the only thing that won't go in here the apex seal spring so they don't go in until you install them in the in German because obviously if these were in here the apex seals will just spring straight out of there so we'll install all of this except for this here right now I don't have a GoPro mounted to my head or anything I'm literally holding the camera with one hand while I'm trying to do this wish me luck until you're wrong now so bloody easy also you can see that it looks like it's two parts there that's because it is when the engine Isuzu engine basically turns over this part will snap off from here what I'm going to do is install it this way so I want the little piece that snaps off down the in facing up essentially we're installed just in case it does break off because if it breaks off and it's down on this and remember this is the front pipe here because it's the front of the engine I'm gonna be very hard to recover that without lifting at the whole rotor so what I'm going to do is just install that here yeah like so ok corner seal side seals or control rings steels and I pick seals are in next step is quite honestly to Vaseline the living Christ out of everything so it doesn't move so into the tub we go yeah this isn't so much for initial startup lubrication it is more do if anything to glue the parts in place so they don't fall out when I tip the rotor up slow down because up obviously you've done one side here but I still need to do the other side and if you don't one 800 gallons of Vaseline in in your engine start then I mean it's easy just as just before you install the rotors if you want to just remove some of this go for it but whatever it's just I mean it's petroleum jelly Vaseline boy it's a trade name but yeah petroleum jelly petroleum based sort of all products so it just burns off no drums leaving it in all here you just get a bit of a smoke show yeah all gets hot melts goes in the oil do an oil change what comes out that's fine ok so if you're at this point this bench should look like this if there is any other seals or springs left over guess what oh time to pull those apart and double-check everything yeah I pick steel springs of all you should be left we're pretty much at the point now where it's time to assemble the engine now only thing I haven't run is Rhoda weight and bearing clearances written the bearing clearances just here for you you can work out your own bearing clearances that's that's readily available all over the internet we ran over it a bit in our original rebuild video too so this race engines a little bit different tiny bit different than that but not much different but they everyone's gonna have some kind of secret here and there but yet rotors have all been weighed everything's been miked up and checked up so well good to go so next step is rank whacking it on that engine stand there and starting to assemble it so before we start assembly you notice that there's no oh rings here and that's these so very inner and outer and will again have to hit the Vaseline tub destroy them in the Vaseline again just helps keep it in place some people use other products but overuse vessel mean always and never an issue with so get those in now and we can start assembling Watsonville the curtain here its first we go to the bathtub so all the really hard work is done building the engine is actually the easy part you can almost think of it this building an engine is like a Big Mac you got a piece of bread meat bread meat bread it's just it's just five plates and housings going together and when you've assembled everything already it's just the case of putting all those together so if you know how to put stuff down and the little intricacies of putting the apec seal springs in this process is really really straightforward and really simple so this stuff before was hard this is easy stuff but enough talking let's get building so we've got our engine stand set up it's all bolted here this is a bit of a homemade one because the ones that you buy off the shelf won't suit rotaries I do have another one from pineapple racing or someone over there it's a proper one that I will get on just missing another headstock I don't know where I've put it so I start with the front plate and what we've got here is the stationary gear installed because that's obviously got the bearing inside of it that will house that will hold the eccentric shaft when I put it in here and in the rotor will locate on this gear I've also got the inner and outer water seals here all in and there's a little bit of vaseline on there you can see and that's just so if I do this they don't come out alright next step what I do everyone does this next step a little bit differently some people put the rotor on first and they put the housing on I've always put the housing on first myself so before I do that but I just need to think these these legs here obviously this is oil this is the oil pan this this leg here is where the oil pan bolts on so oil can splash up here if you don't have any sealant or anything here there is a there is a chance that all can leak passes so we'll just put a thin smear of RTV here you don't need to go ultra serious or anything it's not holding the engine together it's just it's just a seal from a bit of a bit of the oil oil splash so that's sort of step one and I'll just paint it on nicely because I like to spread our TV all over my fingers and everything that I own I can sun's out guns out Melbourne weather turning it on for once I believe tomorrow I'll probably just you know Melbourne perfect one day terrible in the afternoon perfect at evening and then terrible the next day so shorts could be short-lived pardon the pun del there del there another day I will go there but I'll put that in place after I work the housing down now we've assembled our earrings here in the housing one on either side which seals around that o-ring surface as well yeah I mean these have stamped F&R but not really the it you know if you had a front rear housing or a rear housing it won't really make too much of a difference it might be some separate earlier model motors that might have added a bit a bit of a difference in like these missing whatever but no for the for the most part it won't really matter if you if you get an F for an hour whatever I believe project redline originally had two rear housings on it so Dan we go and in place so that's now on there what I'll do is I'll get our other down and I'll just put that in there an elite these would be a bit of a tight fit because they're an interference fit that's meant to be tight there we go now this one had to be drilled out to 16 mil to suit the del all the other ones have drilled out to half inch and the reason for that is this was already drilled out to a dowel so that it was recessed in the center plate so that the factory through bolt is only so long this actually uses a super long bolt called which people in the industry of traditionally call an M bolt because there's an M master logo stamped on it we'll see that later on and because the thread had been or the the plate had been recessed here they knew that power seal half inch stud kit once it in that hole properly so if you've got a doubt engine and you're looking to run the bigger half inch studs you probably won't be able to run them if you're using fusing these days so next step is what I want to do is throw the rotor in so there is no right way or wrong way or wrong location to put this in essentially this is front the gear is hear the gears obviously there so it's just a case of putting this down here and it will just locate on the gear like that so you can see where now we need to more importantly we need to stop and take the thumbnail photo for this video that's it that's it as you can see it's sort of falling there but yeah once I put the eccentric shaft in here it will locate that in place and then that's fixed so yeah now it's time to get the shaft in there alright so before I put the shaft in the hole uh-huh I've got to lubricate the bearings so that these are aren't brand new bearings either because rotaries aren't over all over overly hard on bearings anyway but these this is my race engine primarily before it was just a standard sort of engine from the FD and it already had new bearings in it so if anything they've worn in a little bit which is even better slightly more clearance which is great and I'll just also pump it better oil on here it's on for this to go in here and again like I said before this what will happen is when I'm putting this in here the shaft if anything will all locate and dictate where everything is to go on as you can see Bank just pops in so what that's done is just put everything exactly where it needs to be you don't have to worry about when you're putting the rotor in if you're putting it up or down in the wrong way the the shaft will dictate where that has to be so all righty next part is so when we assemble the rotors we put the apex seals in and that was to ensure that the corner seals don't move around because if you get a corner seal that moves the spring at the bottom of the rotor the only way to recover that is take the central shaft out take the rotor out again and fix it so what we'll do now is take the corner seals out and we'll pop the apex seal up and then we'll assemble the apex seal springs alright now this can be done with a magnet or just para now these are the power seal springy top corner seals they don't require that a factory-style little rubbery things in them so if you're looking at going oh you've forgotten the little rubbers no I haven't they then required so what I'll do now is what I'll do now is just take the apex seal out with the same deal they'll come out pretty easily because there's no tension on them and now it's just a case of assembling the spring in here so it's gonna be hard this is a bit of Vaseline on it but there's a step just here and there's another step at the top here so there's two spring so there's one spring that will sit on the inside of the air pick seal and one on the outside of the apex seal so those Springs here and they sit like so so there's one on the outside and one on the inside and now it's just a case of of putting them where they need to be so you start with the longer spring it's just so it's got a bit of attention to hold this the shorter spring in place and we'll feed that one so we've just assembled the front rotor I pick seals in corner seals and everything's right it rotates which is definitely a good start always check that the engine still does at least a couple of rotations oil the surfaces because you know come for a start up we wanted to make sure it's fully protected it means do we you know a bucketload of smoke but big deal whatever you better of heaven business market initial startup rather than an engine with a score on it or something because it's got metal and metal contacts so all right next next set up is putting the center plate on so this is a bit of a juggling act you know this centre plate as you can see it can't just fit over the hole nicely what I have to do is lift this shaft up with my knee underneath here that's the easiest way to do it for a backyard and and try and wrestle this in here so here we go maybe ultra careful the bearing surfaces and whatnot as well here we go don't trap your fingers in there either and try not to get all the TV first go maybe I've done this before who knows once or twice so next step is obviously next housing next rota so what you'll see is some of the Vaseline it's really really thin now in Melbourne it's normally quite cool you know the faster leans fine to use however if you're in a more temperate climate you'll find this probably melts and won't hold the o-rings in place so you can use something like rubber grease that will hold its and it'll hold its structure much better or all up have used halima and things like that so vaseline just easy cheap and at work so it's why I normally use it but day like today with a bit of heat running into a bit of trouble so what up time to move on to the next the next one only reason I'm putting this on with my finger here is because you know where those famous the Internet that's true I'm not using the rubber gloves today could use them I've only got some crap ones of them I'm gonna really don't like them so you have to get some more the only reason I put it on the spread over my finger is it lets me know sort of how thick it is in all areas but also you never know if you've just pulled your silicon off the shelf and there might be a little drive in it or something so if you've got a hard drive bit there it's not going to spread around so it just ensures that it's all nice new and fresh and it's um later than even manner next step just make in alright here we go that's that and now this we go in there we go that's all in place and Oh pinched o-rings it's great now we drop the rotor in so so as before this will be the gear side is up this time because the gear will be on on the rear so this is this face down we'll just plonk it in now and just like before as well there is only one possible way that this can go on so just doing that put it back and forward and down it sits you can see these sitting there proud and Guardian bastards next step is exactly what we did on the front on the front rotor it's just a case of taking out the these corner seals and then putting a PEC steel springs in there [Music] awesome versa I can't feel it it is melting in a rapid rate I might have to use the old pan right rubber grease heading into summer now well spring or whatever it is I'm sure it'll be a different season tomorrow Melbourne this is the air like an outer Water Co so the water runs through these jackets here to cool the engine and the main thing for this seal is to make sure that there's no twist in it the most common thing would be that you would get a twist somewhere in the seal so it's important to chase a seal all the way in and then all the way back so these this is the power seals I ring kits so these are one piece there's no joining them if you are using a mazda seal you'll see they'll be like a green different area here because they're actually joined seal you have to put that join area just up here above the intake port that's the coolest part of the engine and that just protects that join from extra heat you can see it is obviously a better seal over lapping so what you do is you just sort of push back push the seal bunch it up a bit around and then you'll find that it just drops into place so what I'm going to do now is put a bit of extra vaseline on here because like I said it is hot worse the outcome here is dropping the engine in place and the seals sort of falling out in place what will happen then is if you do a pinch of seal you'll probably notice that depending on whereabouts it is if it's external you'll get a you'll get a water leak don't need if it the stationary gear now but I'm going to anyway this ring is this once there's an o-ring in here on our excited engines is actually in the back but this is an FD rx-7 engine so all I'm going to do now is attempt to fit that I can't see I'm gonna put my head in from the camera too bad it's just a case of lightly tapping this Center into place just some light taps with a rubber mallet you don't want to put bolts in and drive it into place with that that's definitely not the way to do it just give them some light tops with a rubber mallet to get in place and then I'll get there they will just work a couple of these bolts in there get the right ones just to hold it in place for now I'll worry about doing these up to talk up the spec in that a bit later I'll set my impact wrench to three uh GERD others there we go pork suspect definitely [Music] there we go bang so maybe a tiny little bit of manoeuvre to make sure it meshes with that rear stationary gear meshes with the rear rotor but once that's in permits in place and what you want to do now is sort of just visually inspect everything so if you you see on this side all the gaps here even you can see in these surfaces here where the oil can get out there's some RTV poking Teresa that's great so next step is to put all these three bolts through so as you can see we machined all these holes what I'll do now is just for the sake of the video all on number all these in for the torque sequence and then we'll put all the oh you'll come back then all three bolts that we threw and we'll talk them up so next part of tying this big sandwich together the three bolts so we've got some here we mentioned it before about that M bolt so there's the the Mazda logo M stamped on it these ones are much longer they're found in in all rotary engines on the outside but we'll be using this one for the dowel bolt as well so we'll keep that one aside so we'll use two of these M bolts but the rest of the bolts will actually be studs so these are power seal half-inch stud they actually utilize a factory m10 by 1.0 thread up here so you don't need to have the block all machined and tapped out at the at the front plate but they're much bigger half-inch unit here with her I think this is a un looks like a UNF thread up here haven't you an F so we'll put these in now so what we've had to do is as you saw machine this block out so what that then does is is it pretty tight tolerance and they bottom out and then we have to do these up so they'll do up and then once you see so the shoulder of the bolt disappear means it's pretty much talked down into where it's got to be the torque load isn't on the thread that's in the block the talk load will be once this once the bolt clamps the start and pulls to start up and everything in and so we just need to Snug this in place so the point of that the shoulder of that stud there is below the line of that and then we're good to go so we've got to do that another or 18 times or 17 times for the other 17 bolts here and then we'll be ready to work the nuts on and do - so normally what would happen is these bolts would have an o-ring so tension bolts have this little o-ring to seal it in place now because these factory tensioner rings tension boldo rings are only for this m10 threaded stud or Boulder should say this won't fit this so what we actually have to do is put our TV around here and then put the bolt on in place so it may look like you know a bit messy or a bit of a backyard sort of operation because it's just reusing RTV but it works really well and you'd be surprised how many workshops actually run with that process so we've got all this done now and then yeah we'll get onto that [Applause] [Music] [Music] rattle guns over here so believe it or not I had this on before this one's got a finger type mode so I put in the finger type mode and it and it'll just click the it just clicks the bolts and the studs into essentially finger tight so then it's right to talk so that's really at a very very quick way very efficient way of getting all these bolts in place to now talk it so I'm gonna do a couple of steps I'll set this to 40 Newton meters at first because these obviously being half-inch does take a fair bit more than 40 so I'll just sort these out now and at 40 and and then we'll move around so as you can see they're numbered we'll just go through that process now what you'll find the first couple let you do it really pulls the engine together I can probably get the old to what gun out and finger tighten they're fair bit more after this [Music] so this was just in here temporarily to hold the stationary gear in place so remove this now and start the assembly off the front of the engine the last thing we do before we put the front cover and all that on we have to set the in float so the amount that the eccentric shaft moves back and forward in this engine is called the N float and we set that using different spaces such as this one here this one is can barely sort of read that but it's got a d' stamped stamp there and there's all different letters which relate to a different thickness of this spacer which relate to how it can move up and down so it's really important when you assembling the engine or when it's apart that if you were to take this hub nut off that hub nut puts the load against this whole assembly here if you were to take that nut off the load comes off and these Torrington bearings can drop the unmov'd out of place if that happens yuri talked your engine back that's it it's done what this bearing will be ruined and you'll be taking a whole lot out again so be very very careful when you're doing that next is just to assemble the rest of this front stacked and really matter what order it's all in because it's all coming apart again shortly alright so we're just going to check the inflow here has a couple of different sized spacers you can put in to correct this what we're looking for is point zero four two point zero seven of a millimeter and we'll check that now on here so you can see the dial indicator currently right on zero and if we put some light pressure and lift it up you can see that's basically 0.045 of a millimeter so that's correctly within spec so we can disassemble this front half now and then reassemble this with the oil pump and then put the timing cover and then put the front pulley back on I've got the pump all assembled in one piece got the chain on and without the key in here we'll just put this in place drop it on in and that's the easiest way to assemble the the oil pump so there is slack and this isn't like a timing chain for a v8 or something where you know that a little bit of slack there is is totally unacceptable it's it's pretty normal to have a little bit slack there so just tighten these all all humph bolts up now and carry on alright so that's it assembly part really easy machinery part pretty detailed and difficult if you don't know what you're doing but hopefully this video gives you a better idea of what your engine builder if you have engine builder goes through my prices maybe at where where they're at because this is a lot of time invested in this engine bleeding up to the point we're building it so the building part as you can see it doesn't take that long all the machinery part takes a long long time so it's all done now next step is to put it in the car so it hasn't got the oil pan on it yet last piece to go in is this oil pressure rig the best part is you can see here it's nothing left over which gives us a lot of confidence that everything's where it should be which is right in there that was good for you guys have you learned something this isn't the only rotary video we've done we've done a stack of rotary content on this channel so if you go back we've done about what plate lapping is whether you need a billet engine component or not the difference is there there's plenty on our project red line which is on the hoist just behind us here build up series and that from start to start to go as well as all the different kinds of ports for rotary reporting so if you want to know more about rotary stuff just have a look at the rest of our channel is punny there but for now about one of these it's definitely time to knock off I'll catch you next time [Music] and like always support the people who support us [Music] you

Channel: Fullboost

Views: 82,460

Rating: 4.9057379 out of 5

Keywords: fullboost, mazda, rotary, rebuild, semi pp, 13B, 13b turbo, project redline, rotary race cars

Id: FJ0MhNtARzo

Length: 47min 1sec (2821 seconds)

Published: Thu Nov 21 2019