Rotary Engine Buildup (NEW!) Custom 3 Rotor Turbo Bridgeport Race Engine

so some of the things we're going to talk about today is uh some of the products and services you can obtain from rotary engine.com and RX7 Specialties uh we're going to do a sample buildup within this video it's going to consist of us taking a D series 20b engine block tearing it down from stock form and going through the entire engine building it up for a customer who ordered this engine overseas for a drag racing application so there's two main things we want to accomplish within this video number one is we want to do a buildup so our viewers can see exactly what kind of quality and uh workmanship goes into all the engines that we build here uh what better way to do it than on a cool build halfbridge 20b drag car application engine the second thing we want to demonstrate is the breakdown of all the procedures and all the parts that go into all of our builds and show you a video which you can now obtain with the purchase of your own engine so anyone who wants to order an engine in the future has the availability to get pretty much exactly everything that we demonstrate within this video from start to finish we decided it would probably be best if we don't waste time filming the actual disassembly of the dirty engine what we're going to do is we're going to tear the engine down first and then we're going to start focusing on all the different areas of each modification explaining why it's important or why the customer chose the uh modification that he did and uh take you through literally step by step start to finish on each component then once we finish all the sub components we're then going to uh go through an actual assembly stage where we're going to bolt our uh engine up to the engine stand and you're going to watch us uh uh assemble the engine piece by piece until it's finished and look something like this one beside me so in my hand is the build sheet that we uh put together for the customer again he's from overseas I don't want to tell you where and who he is for confidentiality reasons but essentially uh this is a drag car application uh very high boost engine half Bridge fully balanced clearanced with our own Apex seals and Corner seals and most of the work that you will see us do is actually performed right here in house anything that we're sending out to a CNC shop to have sublet uh work performed we'll tell you about it as we go so let's go through some of the highlights on this build we are starting off with a D series Block it's one of the strongest blocks that Moz ever made and it's uh a designation for the series of 20b engine that we're using um we are going to be obviously tearing it down and completely cleaning and glass beaing all the components that we perform those processes to uh we're going to be decarbonizing the rotors and uh cleaning up all the grooves and the rotors and measuring things and making sure everything's acceptable um the modifications that we recommended to the customer to support his Bridgeport drag race motor are as follows we're going to replace all the bearings with coated race bearings we're going to do all of our in-house oil modifications within the gears themselves and also match boarding the gears to the block we are going to uh enlarge all the oil passages and perform the rest of the oil modifications that we normally do within the oil pump land area and in this particular case it gets a little bit more intensive because we're actually going to be blocking off the oil traveling through the upper dapin area which is normally the passage that feeds all the stationary gears on a three-order engine and we're actually going to block those off and externally feed all the gears and bearings externally from a oil source controlled by a number 10 pressure regulator now we are going to have to send out some of the engine components for a machine shop to do some of their work that we just can't accomplish when in with our in-house Mill and our own drilling equipment and porting tools uh it is necessary for us to have some uh of the stuff done on a CNC where we have actual programs and in the case of this 20b we actually have asked the Machine Shop to do things uh sort of on a one-off basis basis we're going to do the external oil feed a little differently than we normally do and we'll probably end up explaining that later some of the other stuff we're going to do here on camera is we're going to polish the three rotor Ecentric shaft inhouse with our polisher we're going to do all the porting and polishing here including the half Bridge Port work we are going to do the clearancing on the rotors both side clearancing and tip clearancing we are going to show you the work that we have done at the CNC shop on the rotors which is the lightning of the rers and also the combustion chamber modifications and last the clearancing around the combustion Chambers at that stage we should probably have all of our components ready to assemble as sub assemblies and then move on to the actual assembly on the engine stand uh couple other things that we're probably going to be uh demonstrating on the video is actually balancing each rotor on its own axis on our balancer and then doing the entire rotating assembly where all the Bob weights are fastened to the E shaft and we spin it up and do the counterweight corrections that's a kind of a really cool thing to watch so look forward to it so some of the last things you're going to see after we finish all the port work is we're actually going to lap the side housings right here inh house and show you uh mounting up the plates on the lapping machine and showing the before and after finish uh further to that uh it's going to be mounting the center housing to the Mazda Factory engine stand and building up the motor so here we go so this is just a demonstration essentially of some engines that were freshly removed from uh from the motor itself everything's just a need of uh a lot of cleanup um we're going to show you the uh difference between how they look now and how they're going to look later uh if you focus down on the rotors as well these are all the factory seals and the rotors which we're going to remove and then we're going to put these through a refurbishing SL cleanup process and we're going to update you once we get to that stage where all the parts are clean and move forward from there okay so just as a samples these are the uh three pieces that we showed you earlier before clean up um this is just one of the three rotors as you can see all the seals have been removed this has been uh soaked in a chemical and uh completely stripped of all carbon and dirt and grease it's got the original bearing in it uh but it's a decent usable rotor and uh We've measured this uh and measured all the uh Apex clearances and this rotor has been proved good to go side housing uh essentially you can see it's cleaned up uh front back inside and out uh essentially this one here is ready to send out to machine shop and have some of our oil passages done and uh once it comes back we're going to be moving on to doing uh the porting on the intake Port then the half bridge and then finally lapping the face uh rotor housing again cleaned inside and out um pretty much ready for use with the exception of it has this really restrictive uh 20b sleeve we're going to take this out and we're going to put in a third generation turbo sleeve and uh then we're going to finish the P work from the inside here and uh by the time we're done with that uh rotor housing uh it will be ready for install so the next time you see it we'll pretty much be ready to go so now what we're going to do is Mark the rotor housing for porting we're just going to put on the little jacket on the outside with the D pin through and then we're going to take the template and we're going to line it up and we're just going to take our according marking compound and we're just going to spray that like that and what we end up with is something like this it doesn't look like a lot but by the time you pull out the really restrictive sleeve and uh you actually remove all this material and then build the bevel Edge and chamfer it and polish it it actually is a lot of material that we're going to take out so now for the nasty part of the job we're going to do uh the intake ports and the exhaust ports over here uh essentially we got this little station that's got lots of light um an actual light inside the rotor housing we've got lots of die grinder bits and polishing Grinders here so we can uh save time and not have to change bits all the time that's why we have so many Die Grinders and so many different bits and um all we're going to do here is put on some goggles and we are going to work at before we do the actual Port uh inside the rotor housing we're actually going to remove this restrictive sleeve okay so what we're going to do is we're going to cut through this side and this side and knock the roll pins through and get rid of this ugly nasty sleeve okay here we go so we just got the sleeve out as you can see we've got grind Marks here and here we punch the roll pin through on each side the sleeve just falls out now we're going to put in our uh FD type sleeve we're going to secure it with the new roll pins and uh then we're going to start working on porting the actual exhaust Port matching it to the FD sleeve and doing a little bit more uh transitioning and polishing so now that we're done with the exhaust uh marking we're going to Mark the uh intake ports um my personal preference when we're doing a uh secondary half bridge is this extreme rotaries template it's a beautiful piece um this is uh not the largest bridge template you'll ever see but that's one of the reasons we've chosen it we actually aren't going for a large asper type Bridge we're doing a very small half turbo bridge and all we're going to do is just mark it the same way we did the exhaust and pull out the Dow pins pull off the temp plate and that's what we have to work with here so this is all going to come out we're going to transition smooth that polish it and we're going right through there so the bridge marking is going to become a hole and you're left with a bridge for the corner seal to ride on hence the reason it's called a bridge P it so we'll be able to show you the complete uh final product when we're all done so now that we finished doing the intake ports on the center housing what we're going to do is we're going to uh choose the right um drive for the lapping machine so we we have a u adapter for the rear housing we have one for the front we have one for the thick 20b iron and then we have actually this is the thick 20 beon and this is one we're going to use for the center so we're just going to lock this in and then I'm going to walk this over the machine and put it on the table and I'm going to lock it down in the right position [Music] close the door plug it in never want to have it plugged in when your hands are in there and we're going to push the hydraulic Arbor down and we're going to turn it on and that's going to sit there and lap for about 4 to 6 minutes so last we took you to our porting area where we showed you grinding away at the various different housings doing different things for our uh half Bridge Port uh part of that was taking out the restrictive 20D sleeve and putting in the 93 up RX7 turbo sleeve and we have done so on all three houses and we have finished uh performing all of our final Port work on these housings as well so each of them looks like this by the by the time they're done these are actually painted and ready for install so these are going to stay right on the the bench here until we're ready to put the engine together uh moving over to the end housings again we did all of our porting and polishing in the runners we did all of our porting and the polishing at the Port itself essentially what we end up with is we have a much larger primary Port which has been ported and Polished equally on all three primary ports and all the secondary ports have been polished and secondary Bridge Port as up here which is going to be consistent between the this side of the thick housing and then the front port and the rear housing Port which all have the secondary Bridge you'll also see that these housings have all been lapped to Perfection these surfaces along with these finished ports and along with the oil modifications that we've had done at the Machine Shop are actually now ready to fit the bearings and ready for install so what we've done now is we've sent out the block to the Machine Shop to have all of our internal galleries enlarged and a lot of our special uh pieces built so we can block off the existing oil system and work on externally feeding the gears uh and what we're going to show you first is an example of what we're doing in-house on the gears so this is a gear that came out of the motor like this dirty um Factory bearing good shape i' looks of it but we're going to show you now what our gear looks like when we've done all the cleanup we've checked this one out inspected it properly and it is good for use we've gone ahead and cleaned this up obviously we've enlarged the gallery and match ported this to the feed from the Block and now we're going to push in a brand new bearing so the final stage we're doing with these gears is just pressing the bearings into the gears and then we're going to insert the new lock screw with locktite in this hole to lock the bearing in place and these gears will be finished and ready to install so just installing the lock screw got some Loctite blue on these lock screws and once we run these down we are finished with these gears we've already done the uh Center bearing and if you look here what we end up with is three gears with new bearings that all have the enlarged and match ported oil feeds so the last thing we're going to utilize the balancer and the V blocks for is to actually spin the crankshaft with the drive motor so I can polish the crankshaft with the crankshaft polisher it's a long and boring process so we're not going to film the whole thing but just so you know our belts attached to the crank the crank will spin with the electric motor once we hit the start button on our keypad and essentially what we're going to do is we're going to hold our polisher to the journal on the weight of the machine on top of the belt and it's essentially going to polish each Journal one by one we're going to go through that process and show you the crankshaft when it's all finish something else we've done for the oil modifications uh just to go with our new bearings is we've actually had all the journals on this crankshaft polished so that's what we've uh done we haven't taken off any material other than minimal talking tens of a thousands of an inch just to polish up the crank and make all the journals perfect so we're going to clearance this rotor to a proprietary specification I can't tell you what that is but we're going to remove the same amount of material from both sides of this rotor we're going to start with the non-gear phas so we can square it off and then flip it over and do the uh the non-gear side last okay so here we go not sure if you can hear it cutting from where you are right now but it's a u tool called a B Mill it's got four very sharp blades on it and uh this allows the uh finish to be uh extremely uh fine and uh accurate probably won't be able to see the material being removed from where the camera is sitting right now but when we're all done this cut we'll show you what the final product looks like when we're done and we got about another half a minute here thank and now one's done so just pop this off for you have a look you can see so there's the nonm side and that is our new clearanced and mil [Music] face on the rotors we have actually already gone to the extent as we showed you earlier they were cleaned up measured and inspected uh this rotor here has actually already had our in-house side clearancing and our additional tip clearancing done on all the tips and we've actually pressed in a Calico coated bearing on the inside which is a deep Groove Mazda Factory race bearing uh all these oil mods we're doing provide extra oil flow to the engine and uh the reliability for a race engine it's pretty important stuff so we have received our rotors back from um the machine shop that has finished performing the clearancing on the combustion pocket here we've done that on all three faces on all three rotors we've also showed you earlier that we finished doing our face clearancing and our tip clearancing and of course installed the new Mazda race bearings and what we're going to do next is we're going to balance each of these rotors on their own axis and then we're going to move to a dynamic balance of the rotating assembly and doing our counterweight Corrections okay so now we have one of our freshly uh and finally machined and worked on rotors that's ready for final balancing and we've got it spinning right now we expect to have to do at least Corrections on it which means we're going to have to remove this rotor from The Balancing equipment bring it over to the maill table use our uh slot drill and do some corrections and probably go back and forth a couple of times sometimes that can take as many as five or six times but let's see how far out this rotor is and then we'll know uh once it stops [Laughter] spinning so it's sampling at just under 800 RPM and measuring taking its last samples to about 786 RPM and it's sampling one last [Laughter] [Music] time this one must be out which is normal when you do uh clearancing and the combustion chamber modifications it is very likely that the rotor is going to be far out from the factory Mazda balance and hopefully we'll know in a minute here what this one shows and reveals itself to be yeah okay so we're not too bad right now we're uh 4.3 out on the right and zero on the left so we're going to have to do corrections on one side of this rotor only uh while we're gone we're going to do up the other rotor and see if we can't get them both back to zero uh and then we'll do the rotating assembly balance see you soon okay so what we're doing here is we're just locking down the rotor to the the mill table now that we know what Corrections we need to make to the rotor after we just spun on the balancer so we're going to line up the uh first temp of the rotor with the uh slot drill and once we get this all lined up properly we're going to do some correction work we're probably going to go um somewhere in the neighborhood of uh 30 to 40 th deep on this one just based on uh experience on doing these rotors and lock the table and here we go okay that is our first correction we're going to have to flip this over and do the other side but just so you can see the amount of material we took off is quite minimal it's uh a 3/4 in slot drill or 19 mm and that's about 5 G worth of weight so now we got to turn it over and to the other side so we just finished doing our last correction uh with the uh slot drill and uh took out the appropriate weight that the machine told us to remove from this rotor so now we're just going to hook up our uh belt drive and spin this again and see how close we got so again we're ramping at just under 500 RPM once it starts measuring it'll start increasing the speed and if we get lucky we won't have to do uh any more Corrections on this rotor we'll already be at zero now we're speeding up we're up to about uh 600 RPM 725 uh 780 and it's topped out about there 798 uh 842 836 and it's measuring there's now sampling counting down let's have a look and see where it ends up [Music] here so it's still asking us to take out 4.9 on the right so we're going to have to do one more correction after this one okay there we go our last spin and we're zero on both sides so this rotor is now finished and ready so we're going to get the counter weights ready to put on the Ecentric shaft on the balancer as you can see this counterweight is a little rusty from being uh located externally on the engine sometimes these uh engines when they're shipped from Japan they have no Transmissions attached so we just want to protect the ceiling surface this on the Hub side of the counter eight and then we're going to take this over to the glass speeder make it look like [Music] new we'll turn this on within about 60 seconds we'll have this thing looking like brand new okay so all done glass beeding that c right what was a before and after that's the final product here and then what we're going to do is we're just going to take some Scotch Sprite and we're going to clean up the ceiling surface on the Hub of this counterweight and make it shiny and like brand new and that's what you get that's our final product it's going to go uh get rinsed under hot water and then blown dry uh front counterweight just a little bit oily uh like to put everything uh in the engine as clean as possible so we're going to bring both these over to the sink and we're going to spray them off with brake clean and uh then we're going to bolt them on the crankshaft see you soon so what we're doing now is we're going to work on balancing the engine we've got our uh Bob weights here that we had custom made uh many years ago probably one of the most accurate methods of uh balancing today so we're just going to uh finish putting on the uh weights on The Bob weights and make sure that we've got exactly the weight that we calculated Bingo we're just going to slip on the last of the three Bob weights onto the customer entric shaft and lock it down and we will be ready to go to the balancer all okay so now we have our counter weights and our Bob weights on the shaft we've got everything as an assembly mounted to the machine what we have to do now is just connect our Drive Bel to the motor and we have to hook up our magnetic RPM gauge here just going to give it a quick spin to make sure it's centered and last thing we need to do is we need just put a little bit of lubrication on the journals okay and then we're going to come over to our keyboard and prompt the start button here we go now this machine is designed to uh take some uh measurements as it's spinning so it's going through what's called a ramping phase right now and as soon as the machine is comfortable there's no major problems with the balance of the assembly it will actually start to increase the RPM so if you look here the RPM is actually at 435 right now as soon as this ramping message turns to a measuring message the RPM will substantially increase and then the balancer will start taking its measurements and recording sometimes it can take a minute to a minute and a half for that process to happen now it's starting to sample measurements and you'll see the RPM is almost doubled and if you look at the actual rotating assembly it's spinning much faster than it was before once we start doing our Corrections on the weights and adding or removing material you'll find that from the time that you hit the start button up until the time where it actually samples and then measures and shuts the machine off like it just did uh the time frame will be much less in this particular case the front is actually already corrected to zero and the back is asking us to remove 9 G so we've got this one actually pretty close so far so the nice part about this machine is we actually have uh a slide Mill cable that runs parallel to the balancer that when we swing this around 180° we are actually lined up dead center to the middle of the crankshaft which is a real nice feature and what you'll notice too is is that this particular balancer has a air locking mechanism we plug in the airline we actually have control with a button to steady and position the mill head so we can get it to stay where we want so we're going to go ahead and set this up and then we'll bring you back to when we're going to do the correction on the actual counterweight so we've got our Mill head and our drill bit lined up where we've marked the rear counterweight and the goal here is to take out nine G so I always put a magnet over top where I'm drilling to catch the filings and just going to make sure this is perfectly Center that's right on the money right there so Corrections actually happen right on the balancer right on the V blocks we don't actually have to remove these weights because of the uh the benefit and the luxury of having this Mill head lining up right on the path of where we're drilling so uh we're going to do our Corrections and then we're going to spin it again so working forward with the oil modifications we've done uh first thing we're going to do is we're going to put some Vaseline on the O-rings for the rear pedestal now this is a pedestal that we got from extreme rotaries that we've actually gone and blocked off one of the factory passages and the reason we've done that is because we're not using a internal pressure regulator here at the base of the block that Gallery is actually going to remain open this is going to be all externally fed and regulated by a Peterson number 10 regulator from the outside so all we're doing is we're basically using this passage here to feed the rear stationary gear and that is all so only the rear stationary gear is getting fed from this block we will also be using this block on the other side to externally feed the center housing which we've done again an external modification on here and we're going to be feeding it through a number eight fitting and this will just simply thread in here like this we will no longer have oil flowing through the upper dowel pins and the way we're going to stop that is we've actually gone an O-ring group these pins a very very sh uh shallow Groove so we're going to lubricate this o-ring and we're actually going to press it into the rotor housing and same with this one in the back and we're actually going to be able to block oil flow going through the pins with a slug so the oil can't go through and it cannot go around and that's how we're going to seal off the oil from going this way so it doesn't end up leaking out here and there's really no reason to have internal oil flow anymore when you've got control over feeding the gears from the outside like this and like this lastly we're going to be coming out of the oil pump land out of this Gallery through this number eight fitting and we'll be going back in through this number eight fitting for the front gear and sorry speaking of the oil pump land what I was talking about here this oil pump land area has actually been ported and boarded out here to give us the highest flow possible so when the oil is discharged this direction out to the rest of the oil system we are no longer going to be flowing out the front cover we've actually got a T-top plug fitting here which is going to plug off that gallery and this plug is going to plug off the feed to the original oil metering pump drive gear so essentially all this is sealed off and all this machine workor that we had the Machine Shop do is specifically to keep all the oil fed externally and not retain any of the internal oil feed functions that Mazda design the engine around so part of the prepping what we're going to do is we've got a special viton rear stationary gear o-ring we have Factory tension bolt washers including the brand new large washers for the large tension bolts and we have some special viton Dow pin O-rings for the top of the rotor housings and all we're going to do like we do with all of our O-rings of these engines we just take a little bit of vas and apply to the orings just enough so they can sit in the housings and they'll stay now we'll always double check obviously to make sure that they're in place when we're going to assemble the next piece but Vaseline serves as a great product to actually just retain the O-rings in place and we will do the same thing with the rear stationary gear and we'll use Vaseline also on the rear tension bolt washers so that way when we T them and the washer has a thin bead of Vaseline when the washer sits on the rear plate and you torque the bolt the rubber doesn't get jammed up and start to break so it's a good idea to lubricate these washers it's also very important that you lubricate the tips of the threads with oil so you can get an accurate torque reading so we've got our viton stationary oing on and uh put a little oil on the gear before we slipped it in we've got the gear mounted and now we're just going to use our torque wrench and torque all the bolts and once we finish torquing all the bolts on all three gears uh we're going to pretty much start the assembly process so stand by here comes the fun part so I've also just finished fitting some custom Von oil control ring O-rings on all of the new oil seals we're putting in new Springs all new parts in the rotors essentially and of course we're installing our own rotary engine.com treated 2mm AP P seals very very high quality high boost seal one of the best on the market so now we got all our rotors all packed with seals what we're doing now is we're just lubricating the bearings and the gears to make sure that uh we've got enough lubrication for dry cranking and the engine's ready to fire and as soon as we finish this we're going to start assembling the block over here as you you can see we have the middle plate bolted to the engine stand gear side up and that's essentially assembling just like a two rotor engine pretending that this is the front plate and that's where we're going to start all the rest of our pieces are laid out Mike's going to pass them to me one at a time and we're going to go through this very quickly and uh one of the reasons you want to do that is to make sure that your Silicone that we apply at the bottom of the dog legs of the housings doesn't dry by the time you're done torquing so here we go so lubrication Center rotor crankshaft please Mike and now we're going to do something that's really important which is we're going to Square Off The Corner seals to the grooves so when we push the Apex seals down we make sure there's not going to be any binding and we're not going to get stuck otherwise we got to take everything apart again so if you do this you'll have the least amount of problems feeler where's the sealer another thing too is everywhere you have to apply sealer you're better off taking a rag with some carb clean or some brake clean on it first and wiping off any oil that may have soaked into the cast iron that's going to prevent the sealer to stick so we've already done that we've already cleaned off all the areas and that goes for the rotor housings too and make sure that those are nice and clean on both sides and we're going to start with rotor housing number one the center housing lubricate the Apex grooves so when the seals and the Springs go down they travel down [Music] nice I usually start with the top one in other words wherever the Apex is pointing straight up and down grab a clean rag M put some bre clean on it so we can just clean up this lubrication so solid Corner Fels make it a little bit trickier sometimes to get everything in place because you don't have the mobility the spring movement and the seal movement that can U Move Around inside of the rubber insert in the standard Mazda Corner seals anyone who's assembled an engine before will understand exactly what I'm talking about but sometimes this can go a little smoother and setting a time record isn't the goal here obviously making sure everything goes together accurately and properly but again just a little trickier sometimes with solid Corners we've chosen to use a solid corners on this build because this is a very very high horsepower high boost application that's going into a drag car and uh anyone who knows anything about tuning and rotary engines knows that bad timing will assassinate Factory Corner seals and break one or several or all of them all in one shot so we're just making sure that that's not going to be the case if your tune is really really good and an experienced tuner has tuned the car and you're pretty confident you're not going to have fuel system failure or something catastrophic happened to the engine uh you can get away with uh Factory corners on extremely high horsepower high boost applications but in this case again we've got a little bit of protection built in okay sometimes this one's tricky on these screet rers all the way around and make sure our O-rings are not falling off slowly down there we go this are reeded housing installed so we're a third of the way there so what I'm going to do I'm going to rotate this so our loob is at 6:00 makes it a little bit easier to set everything down in the proper alignment so our back [Music] rotor okay same thing Square Off The Corner seals so again solid Corner seals can be a little tricky sometimes to be in perfect alignment with the rotor slot and that's why it's real important to set your rotor down almost exactly where you know it's going to be one of the reasons I clock the tip of the rotor to either the 6:00 or 12:00 location I can pretty much promise it by the time I slide my back plate on and I get my gear alignment that the rotor is not going to want to twist or turn and at this particular moment we have perfect alignment on all of our seals so we're going to put the next rotor housing in [Music] place here we go sure we're clean O-rings in place now we have to make sure we use one of our special Dows with the O-ring groove on it and the O-ring to seal off this passageway from the rear housing so we're just going to bassine this a little bit make sure you get good penetration of the rotor housing [Music] perfect so start again 6:00 Apex tip that one's down down oh the other problem too with not so much solid corners but in general whenever you buy an aftermarket two-piece Apex seal even our own rotary engine.com seals the corner piece you have to glue them on and sometimes the superg glue allows the pieces not to stick or It lines up a little tiny bit crooked and when you go to slide it in it wants to pop off so those two are going to get reglued back on again take a matter of seconds to do that so we're going to finish up the V rer and we'll put those ones in the front there clean off all this oil that is on the edge of the RoR housing make sure everything's perfectly clean got our dapino rings in place now we're just going to silicone the back housing and we're going to drop it on in the back half of the motor get done and it's really important too to put the silicone seal the uh the bottom dog legs of the housings as you need to don't do it in advance because if you get hung up on stuff like these tips from the Apex eels or something's not cooperating and you need to buy more time you don't want to develop a layer of skin on the silicone and have the silicone start to cure so that's the whole reason we always silicone last so we just cut for a second so we can get those two ends glued back on the Apex seals another thing I wanted to tell people is even though these ones did not break off and they're still attached with glue I recommend putting a a a blob of silicone on the tips silicone a vaseline on the tips of the rotors right above that end piece of the Apex seal just on the off chance when you set a housing on if something gets bumped or knocked and it wants to load up the Apex seal and it wants to pop that corner off rather than the corner popping off here in my hand in close proximity where I can retrieve it when you go to set the housing down and if one of these lets go at least you have a little blob of uh vaseline as a uh as a a barrier to prevent the loaded corner piece from springing up under spring pressure and flipping out and then you got to search for it on the ground so some people I heard assembl the small corner piece of the Apex seal uh Mike's going to watch by the way when I lower this down just to make sure that everything stays in place that the O-ring in the back plate is still in its proper location once it heated down and you got the weight of the housing on it pretty much good you don't have to pay attention to anything else um but some people decide uh or choose to um you know set the corner piece down without gluing it on after they slide in the long beam I personally don't like that idea it's uh it's it's too um the chances of something uh popping back out is uh is is greater and this way we can just make sure that everything stays in place once you torque the motor just like a Mazda Factory two-piece seal that's glued together from the factory he puts some torque pressure on it and as things start to sandwich close as you're rotating the motor over which we do anyway when we torque we we rotate the engine around and you'll find that you'll hear the end piece popping loose I'm not trying to educate anyone on that that's pretty standard experience for anybody but the um the point is is uh the end pieces will break off okay so anyways uh Apex heels are not going to snap loose until we get some good torque what we're going to do right now is just put some preliminary load on the 13B length uh 10x1 Bolts from on the back these are the only ones that hold the back half together alone and you just need enough pressure to sandwich the assembly one thing that's real important too that I always tell everyone to check especially on a 20b is once you've got some preliminary load and you know that the housings are starting to touch each other in other words you've overcome the O-rings and compressed everything together uh you should have somewhat of a line Bo so when I push up on the bottom of this crankshaft it should pop up and it should drop back down under its own weight let's try no problem see the way that moves up and down that means we're in the right direction so now Mike's going to rotate the engine stand so we can go the other direction and do the front half of the [Music] motor there should be a little bit so we've already got some Vaseline on these O-rings they're ready to drop right in obviously make sure your puzzle joints in the cold area right around the intake for it and which is right there the AO ring in doesn't matter how this one goes in okay so we have our keyway in place for the second uh lobe of the crankshaft that's what's going in next so real simple slide it down line it up and put some pressure on it till it seats that is seated that's all it takes so one of the things we did when we just sent the brake real quick is we put the flywheel nut on and we actually rotated the crankshaft from the bottom to make sure our lobe again was either at 6 or 12 we chose 12:00 in this case and uh again this will just make it easier for us to clock the the rotor where we want it so we know it's going to line up with the gear we put the plate on and now we're just going to straighten out Warners heels again silic on [Music] B back rotor [Music] housing sure the orings are in they are now same thing on the front by the way 20 these have D pins that are deliberately cut back and have some extra slop to allow some movement in the front section of the engine so when you torque it down and rotate the engine these D pins with the play will actually allow the front section of the motor to move and correct the line Bo on the front Journal so that taper has to go down and this o-ring in this case has to go towards the o oil feed towards the gallery and something that's very very important if you want to make sure your line board is correctable and locates itself properly a lot of guys I hear say oh we just use regular 13B dowels and have no problems well I got news for you you got lucky and you're getting lucky every time and I yet you'd have less crankshaft wear and bearing wear if you had maintained the adjustment in the line board be it as it made I choose to do it this way that's the way Mazda designed it and that's the way we're going to keep it and we haven't had problems by using that mees now that's when you're not using any studs or extra dowels either when you start putting an extra pins and extra studs into a 20b that's when things get real complicated and we've got a solution for that too there's two solutions that you can use one of them is you have to implement that exact same movement and cut back on your additional dowels so you don't lock up the motor and uh align everything rigid so we have a way to build that into our delin Motors and the way to do it when you're doing a started motor is to put a little extra clearance on just the front housings so rotor housing front plate where the one piece studs go all the way through from the front and motor to the back the race studs that have a knot on either end those are the ones on that you absolutely want to have uh interference fit on the back just like a regular stud kit would be on a 13B and extra clearance on the front and you'll maintain that Factory uh lineb adjustment function of the engine [Music] okay we are ready for our last piece oh by the way I was going to tell you the second way to and this is actually the most accurate way to do it if you want to fully stud and dowel an engine and you haven't got the uh program the CNC program or the equipment or the knoow to uh to uh you know add that adjustment into your your pins and your measurements and your plates we can actually uh sell you a rotary engine.com Speedy sleeve which are designed to go over the rear and the front gears and what you're doing is is you're using the center Factory XY AIS of the middle plate bearing as your uh guide so you you you you deem that as zero and then you put a 30 th Speedy sleeve that we make over the footprint of the front and the rear gear and you actually have to line B correct the line Bo by boring out the factory stationary gear footprint okay front plates on uh that being said what I was talking about about the Speedy sleeves is although it's a simple function of putting sleeve over a gear uh 612 doesn't the other it becomes uh necessary to use some kind of CNC equipment to rebor the footprint to align the front and the back plate to the center XY AIS um they both take a lot of work that's why guys want to come places like uh rotary engine.com to get their work done we use uh two uh RX8 uh gears are nice and Tall they work as good spacers and an RX8 hub as just a mockup spacing so we can install the front nut and we can allow mik to be able to spin the engine from the top or the bottom so we're going to put a little torque on that what you'll notice is is now we're able to rotate the entire assembly from the top and if we switch over to the the flywheel nut we can crank it from the bottom and that becomes important when you're torqueing the engine because now what we're doing is we're putting Bolts from the front Bolts from the back and we're going through a a torque sequence which is uh you know it's important um it's not easy to memorize and uh it's uh something you sort of have to do by feel as well especially when you do a a studded motor because the studs will put uh heavy loads in certain positions I will tell you one thing a lot of people don't know uh there are some extra large tension bolts these ones here we're putting actually brand new ones of the long ones in and then you have these extra large front ones a lot of people are like what are those for I'll tell you what they're for the whole business of setting the line Bo on the engine requires rotating the engine as you torque it down to allow this front section to float and move and allow the front of the crankshaft and the bearing to position this plate the the large tension bolts are designed to actually use to pull the engine together while you're correcting and setting the line Bo because once you torque up all the bolts this section can't move anymore so you you want to gradually torque these two from the front and the large two from the back gradually as you're spinning and this plate will find itself this whole front section rotor housing plate and dowels with the cut backs okay so just like the back section of the motor all we're going to do is put some preliminary torque on the front bolts so the front half of the engine stays together we don't have any long through bolts holding the engine together yet so we're relying on the 13B bolts in the back and we're relying on these short bolts in the front just to hold the motor assembly together until we can at the very least get get our large tension bolts in the engine and those have to go all the way through from the back or from the bottom what I choose to do in this position or at least where we are right now is get Mike to spin the engine over in other words rotate the crank handle on the engine stand and turn the engine 180° so we can start putting the long bolts in from the top so go ahead and spin it over pretty in it very pretty so there we go so these guys here got that one and this one all right now there is a extra long one just like on a 13B that goes here I have a tendency to like to put the outside bolt that has the protective uh coat on the ribs which is where did it go I saw it earlier okay my eyes are failing me where is it this one Mike's got it and the rest can go wherever they want where you put okay okay so what Mike's going to do is he's going to rotate the engine using the flywheel nut while I put some preliminary torque on the large bolts we have a little bit of tension on the small 10 mil bolts which are essentially going to be torqued later but we do have a little bit of pressure on them at the moment and now we're going to put some on the front as he keeps on spinning this engine around and we're talking you know less than a couple of foot PBS literally just bringing this gradually together and he's just going to keep one going until we probably get in the neighborhood of 10 to 15t P from these FS okay and he's going to continue spinning but we put a little bit of preload now on some of the bolts from the front so we're going to do a 3:00 and the 9:00 position first front and back now we're going to go a little below three sorry a little below 9ine and a little above and the one right below 3:00 on the back and that's all we're going to touch for the T no bolts right now and once we're done with those we're actually going to go back to our large bolts and what I found is that the large bolts bolts are still relatively snug and haven't loosened off too much from applying pressure to the other ones because they're in a strategic location there they're in a good spot to keep the torque even and across so now what we're going to do is we're actually going to put some preload on the bolts that are diagonally across from the large bolts so opposite pattern these two or these four I should say so we got 10:00 and 11 :00 and we got um pardon me 4:00 and 5:00 same thing down here put a little torque towards the top this where those other bolts are there's actually only one down there that corresponds to these ones now we're going to put a little torque on the remainder and notice mik does not stop rotating that engine very important there's a bunch of guys out there going oh we do it all the time we use an impact on we just suck it together and it works good every time good luck for you guys congratulations better safe and sorry right okay so now we've got preliminary torque on just about every tension bolt on the entire engine including the ones with dog legs at the bottom okay so one more time thick bolts quarter turn Okay Okay Mike's done he doesn't have to turn anymore now what we're going to do we're going to start a Torx SE quence going to start with 22 lb on our big bolts there we are 22 lb I'm almost there it's almost clicking right away that one we there okay now we're going to do this ear now it gets me much like a 13B you start going up down left right and one clock position at a [Music] time these ones here are always a lot looser not a huge deal if they get tighten LS we always want to put some torque on it to keep it relatively even now we're going to bump this up to 28 [Music] 28 large bolts again okay engine's all torqued we're just going to rotate the engine around a few times make sure we don't feel any sticky spots or resistance so so far so good we did hear a couple of the end pieces break off on the Apex heels depending on where they were glued on some of them may not break until the engine first fires cranks over to decent speed like starter cranking speed anyway not to worry they'll come off trust me uh crankshaft you lift up in the back falls down this is uh probably about as good of an indication line board being bang on as you're going to get so we're going to flip the engine over and we're going to spin it from the front so we still have this mockup spacer uh system here Everything feels good same thing pick up the crankshaft falls on its own weight line war is as good as it's going to get uh obiously from here we finish everything behind the front cover put the front cover on torque this front bolt properly put the rear counterweight on torque the the back flywheel nut properly uh and this engine is ready for taping up and putting into a box and going to its destination overseas which I I'll tell you where it's going but hopefully we'll uh read about it soon so since we showed the assembly video I went ahead and finished up the front end of the motor and put the front cover on basically taped up the engine baned it to a skid and sent it to our customer overseas he actually he have the engine in 2 days we hope everyone enjoyed watching that video and we want to say that there's plenty more of that where it came from but we wanted to get your opinion first on whether or not you viewers are interested in seeing more so here's a little sneak preview as to one of the next projects we want to uh undergo and we're actually going to put this on video as well would be really nice to hear back from people to see whether or not you guys want to see this it's going to take a lot of time and effort this is a personal engine of mine which I'm putting in my third generation RX7 to replace the regular ported motor that's in it right now with an all aluminum 20b which I designed over the last few years my personal engine which I have been designing for the past few years which is going to be an all aluminum three rotor turbo engine for my third generation RX7 what I've done is designed a lot of this engine around the rare and very welld designed and built racing 13g crankshaft that Mazda built back in the80s for three rotor racing so the unique thing about this 13g master Factory race crankshaft is not only they uh they lightened it or several more holes for for lightning but this uh this crankshaft's actually stronger than a factory 20b crank and one of the reasons they accomplish it or one of the ways they accomplish it is all the main bearings and rotor bearings are actually 1 mm oversiz and if you look at a standard main bearing from a third gen and see the puzzle joint there not only will that bearing not slide onto this journal but the one that will the 13g main bearing is actually tubular and seamless there's no seam at all these are competition race bearings no different than the rotor bearing if you look at the the main main rotor bearing again it's got a puzzle joint and if we try to fit that bearing over top of the 13g crank it will not fit the seamless rotor bearing 1 mm bigger with a deep groove of course mates the journal perfectly the other nice thing about uh this 13g assembly is they actually made custom 13g gears for it out larger to accommodate the 1 mm oversized bearing these are actually B years these are not cast these are machined from Billet and they are very hard and very strong and as you notice too we've got double the holes for mounting in our aluminum block on both the back and the front gear now we also have a brand these are brand new by the way we also have a brand new 13g center gear same thing larger bore bigger bearing much harder and we've actually built one of our 30,000 Speedy sleeves for this to go over top so so we can actually correct our line Bo so we're going to show a little bit of um you know how we go about fitting this gear why it's important uh the whole uh crankshaft rotating assembly with the custom 3750 G rotor weight uh balancing built into the crank uh we're going to be correcting that a little bit if you notice the factory counterweight it's a big heavy 20b counterweight here's the one for a 13g much lighter and it's also B steel same with the rear Billet steel and the taper for the back of the crankshaft is also 1 mm larger so these have to go with that 13g crank again there's a comparison from a 20b counterweight and the 13g race counterweight the other important thing that we're going to talk about in the video is uh the fact that when you use a larger oversized bearing you actually have to bore the rotor out larger to accept this so this is one of my 8 and2 half to one rotors that we've done our CNC work on the combustion pocket which brings it down to about 8.3 compression we've done the clearancing on the combustion Chambers we've done the side lightning the side clearancing and then we're going to rebalance on these on their own axis if you notice this Factory bearing will fall right through here the bore is too big now the larger bearing will be pressed in no different than we press in any other bearing so we're going to get into that in great depth and Detail in the video and show you how all this is done and give you the reasons why it's done so again this three rotor engine is fully aluminum all the rotor housings and all the end housings are aluminum and this is Rotary engine.com own two-piece thick Center housing which we designed and had manufactured for us this has all the internal cooling system and oil drain back work built in this is not a drag race aluminum housing like like the turbo smart housing which just has a bunch of through holes for cooling this is internally cooled with all the proper oil passages all these aluminum housings are coated with a CET coating which we have applied ground and then they come back here and we lap them ourselves on our machine so this exact two-piece Center and all of these aluminum end housings which we've done all the work on for the stud kit and the tension bolts and all the oil passage to exter externally feed the oil is stuff that we've had done but we designed and did ourselves with the cooperation of machine shop even the work on the Block if you see my rotor housings have all been machined to accept not only Dow pins in the combustion area but race through studs that have a nut on either side that go all the way through the block uh there's a couple more studs we haven't put in the block but if you see the engine is loaded up with extra studs and extra dowel pins and of course we had these rotor housings stripped of the original chrome and cmet coated inside as well so this Coating in here is all a custom cmet coating we're going to be running 3mm 2piece eetti ceramic seals in this engine and uh we're going to aim for uh probably somewhere around 20 lbs of boost this is uh going to be a long and winding project and uh we're although we're halfway done with most of the machine work that we needed to do there's still a lot of sublets machine workor and a lot of balancing and a lot of fitting of bearings a lot of oil modifications and of course the assembly work that we have to do so we're looking for your input to see whether or not you guys want us to follow this build and uh stick it up on video for you so the main purpose of showing you guys all this stuff is we'd like to become a little bit more active on YouTube and Facebook and uh give you guys a chance to uh voice what you want to see so if anyone's got any um requests on things you'd like to see uh be more than happy to entertain them please just send us an email or uh send a message to our Facebook page and uh it's been a pleasure and I hope to hear from you guys soon

Channel: RX7 Specialties

Views: 329,099

Keywords: Mazda RX-7 (Automobile Model), Wankel Engine (Engine Category), Racing, RX7, RX8, 13B, 20B, 12A, Rotary Engine (Aircraft Engine Type), Rotary, Rotor Housing, Mazda (Automobile Company), Street Port, Bridgeport, Mazda, 3 rotor, 4 rotor, Mazda rotary engine, Rotary engine, Turbocharged, Rotary rebuild, Apex seals, Racing engines, Rotary parts, RX7 Specialties, 20B conversions, Custom rotary engines, rotary videos, Mazdaspeed, Efinni, 20B turbo, 26B, JDM, JDM engine, FD, FC, FB, 3 rotor turbo

Id: AQ4SLg5tXVE

Length: 78min 27sec (4707 seconds)

Published: Wed Nov 04 2015