Broken Rotary engine tear down | fullBOOST

going above what the owner said this engines probably done about 50 kilometers under 50 kilometers so that's really disappointing all right Tyler tear this thing down as you can see here we've got the engine set up here just ready to be pulled down before we do that gotta pull off all the Dalton stuff here that gets in the way of unbolting the keg a few engines breeding here at the moment so we pull this one down first but rip it apart and give the customer a diagnosis of what it's looking at first of all before we get started give you a few tips on what you probably need to pull it apart so this is pretty much what I use some things you should look as having handy some magnetic parts trays glad bags I've only got two here because I've been doing this long enough that I know where all the nuts and bolts go but what I do when I pull an engine apart that I'm not putting together relatively quickly these I'll just put all the bolts in in the glad bags and then and then I put them over here in these tubs so you can see here here's another customers engine we just got out some parts getting machine and this is essentially all the all the engine nuts and bolts so everything on the inside that has to do the inside engine I put in just the one bag there and it just makes it much easier to sort out so that those and then I've got some big killer power tools and some hand tools so you've got here 90 ml for the front bolt so that is this bolt here at 54 mil this is a massive one now this is fairly nice vault no one's attacked this one with a chisel or anything which is great which means this will go straight on be able to get that give it a few Dugga Dugga this thing all right just about any bolt so got that there half inch impact wrench this is a 3/8 this is also a 3/8 impact wrench and I guess half inch just for some of the more stubborn bolts we can start them by hand and just some move sockets and that and that's pretty much all we know so I Tommy get started and let's crack into it before I forget I put my gloves on for the internet because they love it when I wear gloves and don't forget safety first put my boots on very important all right so that's a manifold off CS uses standard Eretz for car B manifold and Weber carburetors that's pretty common for rotary engines naturally aspirated ones got some phenolic spacers here which is pretty cool take the manifold off here and you can see now again there's another phenolic spacer here so what these do well the idea behind them is basically an insulating gap between the steel or the middle of that of the engine and the middle of the intake manifold so you got a gap between metal and metal contact the idea is that this phenolic spokes are taxed as an insulator so if you don't transfer the heat from this the intake manifold and cooler intake manifold cooler intake temps greater power so that's the idea anyway this engine has only actually done Naoko Hubbard so these gaskets toll free opening just these plates off next I think we'll attack the check the front engine a bit of all these dress molds but the only problem is generally that standard valves are always 12 mil here and then stress ball toys 13 mil so just makes it a little bit more of a pony ass pulling those things apart the washers again you can leave these bolts on here because they're all they're doing is retaining the water pump to the actual housing so we'll leave those on for now mission leads off right spent a time you know get in there you know trusty ten mill into this and time to pull obeyed dizzy there we go these igniters are really hard to get these days so gotta be careful with these as well capping the road button everything some snow play and they're really it all looks all brand new so that's pretty cool alright so we've pretty much reached the limit of we can sort of pull the party on the bench out at the old metering pump off just for the sake of it will here anyway and I'm go and put it on the injured crane and pull it apart all right so what we got now is the engine on the stand how I put all the volts from the external part of the engineer bagged up so I'll get rid of those now and what we'll start off is cracking this front bolt here and there cracking the flywheel bolt because until those two bolts are undone you don't want to go loosening off anything else because you won't be able to get anything else apart so I'll crack these two and took her from there done now to remove this wobble what we're gonna do is I'm gonna put this nut back on and we're gonna bang on the outside services to pull it off because yeah it's got a tape on so I should loosen up just put the this back on so when it does loosen off just in case you don't grab it in time it won't fall off obviously they're not all retain it and that simple as done [Music] let's now what we're going to do is work our way backwards from the rear plate forward now we'll rotate the engine so it's sitting upright so this is at the topmost point in the one you all attention bolts here remove the plate housing centering go forward and we'll inspect it less stuff as we going quickly and then whatever more thorough inspection once it's all apart all right Tom do it first things first off comes the Sun well we're here I'll just take pickup off as well all right so here it is ready to start and right off the bat you can notice something which interesting you see what's missing yeah okay game on engine see what story you want to tell all right so you notice engines lost compression one of the rotors I don't know if it's both or or just one from a real not sure yet so we'll take a look but Wow interesting okay let's continue [Music] [Music] alright first of all remove the rear plate we'll just remove this keyway here which is extremely tight of all right the first things first we'll grab these water seals which we definitely don't want anymore and we will run away but the first thing I do when I pull it apart is I'll have a look for you can see here carbon on the edge see some carbon on the edge here carbon on the edge here and I'm just looking to see if there's carbon bypassing any of these seals in that here it doesn't look like there's anything there it corner seal moves freely and the other two popped out they haven't got updated corner seal spoons I can see they've just got the old-style ones solid seal spirit side seals up okay don't like I said this engine was relatively near new so you can see some cleaning marks and stuff on there but look at the side seals out here so I don't lose everything [Music] all over sales so again quick visual inspection look good for a housing that's done no kilometres I'd say it must have been pretty a bit secondhand to start with one a wedding because there's actually a lot of chatter marks it's just some crime starting to peel on the on the edges here so how we get the housing off to and again we will inspect all this properly once it's all on the bench it might be pretty hard to see you can see obviously path marks here from from where the rotor sweeps but they don't even pick up there just visually you can't even pick up anything on there so really much to worry about so boy I'm live from what I can see on this rotor already interestingly these housings are fly cut but this engine doesn't have a bridge for it so obviously these housings were just ones that previous engine builder had probably lying around and it's gonna be hard to see but I've got closer look later but you can definitely see some chatter marks a for an engine that apparently has done no case that is a lot of Chrome peeled just there that is not a housing or whatever be using in a customer's injured it's got a pretty large extend port port looks pretty good actually what I'm gonna do now is just a full lipid over I just want to inspect that rear rotor first because it's fairly on the impression that that was the one that was pretty ruined and now take it saw me cover off doesn't really matter what order you take this stuff off all comes apart in the in sir do it whatever way you want I just wanted to see the rear us hora started working in something the front of course if you want to remove the center plate you have to remove all this because y'all will have to remove the eccentric shaft a bit all right so the chain feels good nothing broken they're all pumps all stolen the keyway so that's great yeah what the duals are just getting a 10 mil out and we'll just get this oil pump off you'll notice that I'm not I'm doing this because tiny little keyway in here you undo that chances are when you put it back on you may break it so it to Center PI it off center shaft visual first inspection looks pretty good with some more mods here yeah that's good or artx to the front rotor well this is probably the issue that corner seal stuck this corner seal stuck this corner seal stuck that's so that's that even having to dig any further that's about it that's definitely a reason why this engines got no comp so diagnosed it's not over yet but that's a that's a damn easy start so I've just noticed something else these bearings well like they get some light in there and that shine knows but you can pick up their bearing surface is ruined Wow and going with what the owner said this engine is probably done about 50 kilometers under 50 kilometers so that's really disappointing so haven't seen any metal shavings or any particles the oil was actually from what was left in the Sun for anyway and what's coming out of the engines really really new and clean so hopefully this engine wasn't assembled with those bearings in it cuz that's just wrong quick visual on this rotor housing this one's also got quite a fair few chatter marks I mean the I pick seals aren't broken engine what's interesting it's it's a case of were these housings like this before I went in the engine or has that happened now again final inspection here when we pull it all on here these marks are fine none of those are picking up at all so these are chlorite and see all of these holes are really clean this is the one earlier if you actually have a bolt in it so take a closer look there it's gonna be pretty tough to see but it's a hell of a lot of corrosion in that hole wondering if that thread has been stripped and the previous engine builder just decided not to put a bolt in it yeah which is also another worry so and sort of understand why they may have done it it doesn't excuse the reason they done it but what you have to understand is that when you're building all this up the last literally the last things that happen on this engine are those are those tension bolts and if they've done all these tension built up and then you've realized that this threads a bit ruined and it's cross through and it won't tighten up well what you your only real option is tear down the whole engine again and repair this throat if you just not into giving your customers exactly what they're paying for I guess you just leave that tension bolt out don't you might explain why the housing is not the way they do also all right so let's try and some live here on diagnosis on this we've got front rotor here this is the rear side of the front rotor and these are stuck in you can see there they're not protruding there at all that one's just moving these two no no go just pull the side seals out or control rings have spring fair bit of carbon buildup already obviously this engine was apparently just put in so probably didn't have any kind of real cheering it either corner seals fell out on the stationary gears on the front of the front rotor so the oversee weren't stuff so okay we'll put that aside and we'll all move on we'll check the clearances of that another day move on to housing now our rotary engine this is where compression happens so you've got intake compression ignition and exhaust so where well that's not ideal you could have a little bit of missing chrome here and maybe even just up you know thinking just a bit up on the intake side but any marks whatsoever around this area are a no-go because they say this is where must must seal and uh just can be really hard to see there's missing chrome it's quite a lot of wear marks on the urges weather as it still is but there's some missing chrome up here it's what we call and people and rotary people will call chato marks here so you can sort of see some light marks where it looks like something's been bouncing off the surface those marks are not good because they leave indentations which means the apex seal can't seal properly and there are no good now there are people these days machining this surface this is an insert but you can't just race leave this like a piston engine or with a ball here there are people was machining this there are other some other things out there on the market that they can lightly hone so to speak that surface but these are actually pretty marked up all the way around actually what looks pretty nice there as well but yes these these rotors are for bridge school and they've found their way into this engine well now and if you can just see that now this is big area here discoloration that was actually chrome missing big chunk of chrome missing so for an engine that's done about 50 kilometers the customer cities literally bought the engine and then that's the during around four years sort of sitting around for a few years and then just drove around the street and it just stopped yeah he wonder if that was in their previous or if that's just happened through corrosion um just wouldn't recognize happen through a corrosion with a new engine because it would be full of so much vaseline and oil and fuel mix during that while they're still betting in so that's disappointing that this housing is definitely toast and the other one realistically is true because of the chatter marks and this one again has those marks but they are all the way here again so no go for those either sorry the rotor everything came out of this fine everything was all good you can see the magnetic pickup it was just picking those up and they're pulling me out which is a great indication that that that rotors um find bearings I doubt I doubt the bearings were replaced you can see here where mark um there try and see if I can see the front very now better on this one you can see those marks and see all that there that is just the bearing surface sort of destroyed let's like that very much all the way through those rotors are fine it's bearing certain route so they'll have to come out the eccentric shaft looks good obviously we'll have to mark it all up and go through it which is what you have to do so you measure the lobes and look a few different points but this looks pretty good okay one saving grace there last but not least let's tackle the plates here all the plates are very similar so no one bother running through all of them here but um this would look pretty good you see in the camera what looks like marks I guess here in here they are just your normal marks from the movement of the seals against this face and what you're looking for initially before you start measuring everything up with straightness and flatness is if they just feel filler with your nail and see if they grab and these marks are very very cosmetic nothing is his picking up there so if they were if they were really really heavily picking up on your nail I mean you'd start measuring it up but you know that you instantly have this in these off to lapping to get them resurfaced which is a whether it's removes a saw an amount of material off the surface to get him back to nice flat and true these like assuming this engine was is apparently very very new and these surfaces feel really good once we measure all this up we may not need to we may not need to machine these surfaces at all so what's look pretty good here your close look at that alright so that's pretty much that engines apart sitting on the bench will start measuring everything up there to make sure it's all ok here we go I think we got another pair of housings all right up there yeah they're pretty good for the customer wants is a bridge port as well so we'll put this up we're not going to film the assembly or any reporting of the machining or anything of this engine because it's pretty much gonna be exactly the same as how how to bridge forward a rotor engine rebuild video that we've already got on full boost so if you can search that we'll put a link down here below and you can check that out I will follow exactly the same process of procedure here so you can only comments or questions about this teardown or how to do it or on the other video leave your comments down there and we'll answer them as as quickly as we can until then we'll see you next time keep rappin [Music]

Channel: Fullboost

Views: 97,961

Keywords: fullboost, mrparts, mazda, rotary, engine, 13b, 4-port, rx4, apex seals, housing, plate, seals, water, wankel, how to build, broken, blown, brap

Id: mJmn8GHQezI

Length: 21min 58sec (1318 seconds)

Published: Thu Jan 31 2019