Welcome back to the Gentleman's
Gazette. In today's video, we'll discuss things that menswear experts
are likely to judge you for – silently, we hope and how you can go about fixing
them. ♪ Gentleman's Gazette Theme Song ♪ Once you are firmly situated within the realm of
classic menswear, you'll start to develop a sixth sense about the principles behind it. This extra
knowledge can be a blessing as you'll soon be able to develop stylish and cohesive outfits almost
subconsciously that also go well with your own personal style. However, it can also be a curse
as you are more likely to notice when something just looks off about other people's outfits. Of
course, our goal here at the Gentleman's Gazette is always to be encouraging, not judgmental.
After all, everyone has to start somewhere on their menswear journey and in today's dress down
world, even putting forth effort to look good at all is commendable. But with that said, there's
no denying that some choices are just harder to look past than others. And while it is of
course rude to say anything out in public, your typical menswear expert probably won't
be able to avoid twitching an eye a bit at these 10 menswear mistakes. The good news is
that all 10 of them have relatively easy fixes that will take your future outfits from ordinary
to extraordinary. Before we begin today though, we have already prepared many other videos
covering the nuances of different dress codes, common menswear mistakes, how to's for attaining
excellent fit, and the skills of wearing certain more niche articles of clothing. And while these
videos make for the perfect style foundation, today's video is going to pinpoint issues that
you're likely to see on an almost daily basis. After all, the devil is in the details especially
for clothing enthusiasts. So without any further ado then, here are these common menswear mistakes
and how to fix them. First on our list today are polyester satin ties. Few articles of clothing
conjure up memories of High School proms or first job interviews quite like the polysatin
tie. These ties are inexpensive to get hold of and they can seem like a good attention
grabber to the untrained eye. However, these ties actually grab attention for all
of the wrong reasons. While they are bold, they're overly shiny nature can be distracting
and their synthetic materials mean that they just don't hold a knot very well. Not to mention,
they're likely to break down and bend out of shape over time meaning they'll look even worse,
especially if they're a polysatin zipper tie. [Preston cringes] They're also commonly associated with those who
only begrudgingly wear a suit and tie if they have to. However, this generally means that they have
the paradoxical effect of sticking out like a sore thumb even when the wearer wants to remain unseen.
The remedy here then is to invest in quality ties made from natural materials. Neckwear like this
has a much more organic texture that can be alternately subtle or attention grabbing depending
on how you assemble the outfit around it. Plus, they're never going to look cheap. They're
also going to hold up better over time and blend more organically with a wider array of
outfits meaning that it should be easy for you to assemble an essential tie rotation. And if you
are wondering where to look for ties like these, we think the Fort Belvedere shop is a great
starting point. But there are plenty of other great examples out there there as well and you
can learn what the hallmarks of a quality tie are here. Number two on today's list, tiny shirt
collars. As broader style trends are just starting to transition out of these super slim and skinny
fit era, finally, we can now look back on some of the style trends that were all about making things
as small as possible. And perhaps one of the worst offenders in this camp are anemic shirt collars.
These are often, though not always, configured in a casual button-down style and they're really
not meant to be worn with a tie as you'd have to jam one in there pretty tightly. Simply put
though, these collars don't frame your face very well and might even have some people asking if you
were shopping in the boys department by accident. The solution to this problem then is finding
a collar shape that does suit your face well. Everyone has a subtly different face shape so it's
important to find a collar style that's going to harmonize well with your own facial features. So,
to discover what style will work best for you, you can take a look at this video. Our third item
today is sloppy socks. Socks can often be the most overlooked part of an outfit as they're generally
only seen situationally even in classic style. Unless that is you're a firm advocate of Plus
Force. However, nothing ruins a polished look quite like slippery socks. While the lackluster
material quality in cheaper pairs of socks is the chief reason why socks are going to slide down,
it isn't the only reason this happens. Even higher end socks are going to slide down over time if
they're too short. The solution to this issue then is traditionally styled over the calf socks.
This style was the default choice for men during the Golden Age of Menswear and is easily the most
functional. This is because over the calf socks, at least when they're properly elasticated conform
better to the muscles of your lower leg and will be less prone to have gravity pull them down over
the course of the day. These types of socks are also readily available in the Fort Belvedere shop
but rest assured that you can find them from other manufacturers as well. Next up is number four–
tired knitwear. Part of the appeal of knitwear is that it's softer and more casual than most other
tailored items. However, the line between casual cool and frumpy can be a thin one. The biggest
downside to knitwear then is that over time, it can wear down aggressively. This will
lead to a garment that is saggy, threadbare, pilling and generally unappealing. And it won't
matter how expensive the knitwear was either as even high quality cashmere can't outperform poor
maintenance habits. How do you fix this problem then? Simply by taking care of your knitwear
because it is more fragile than sturdier fabrics, it will require more upkeep to ensure it stays
looking great. So whether that means hand washing using specialty washing bags in the machine,
carefully removing pilling or storing it properly during the seasons you're not wearing it, the key
for sweater maintenance is proactivity. This then should keep you looking more Steve McQueen cool
and less Simpson’s cat lady. The number five item on today's list is creased shirts. Most of us
probably realize that dress shirts are going to look unsightly if they they haven't been properly
ironed. But alongside wrinkles from rough wearing, this same ill effect is shared by brand new shirts
out of the package that still have those packaging creases intact. We know it's exciting to get a
new shirt to wear and sometimes you might get impatient to wash it before wearing it for the
first time. And I think we might all secretly want to emulate the cool air of Don Draper keeping
a few fresh white shirts in his desk drawer. But this practice in general is a bad habit that will
be noticeable to anyone with an eye for detail. These creases are going to be most prevalent on
the cuffs collar and main body of the shirt and probably aren't going to resolve themselves as
the day goes on and nobody really wants to look like origami. This should go without saying of
course but aside from those package increases, regular wrinkles in your shirts aren't going to
look great either. The best way to remedy this then is simply by ironing your shirts. Becoming
skilled with an iron is something that takes a bit of practice but our video on the subject should
speed up that process for you exponentially. Number six – poorly cared for shoes. Nothing
breaks our hearts more here at Gentlemen's Gazette than seeing a neglected pair of shoes.
Shoes are truly an investment piece that set the literal foundation for your wardrobe. And even
a smart looking pair will be greatly cheapened if they aren't properly maintained. And aside from
the obvious concerns of the body of the shoe, this also includes tattered, mismatched or even broken
shoelaces as well. As you might imagine then, the simplest way to fix this issue is by implementing
a proper shoe care routine. And given that shoes are are often going to be the most expensive part
of your wardrobe, you definitely don't want them falling apart prematurely. While you certainly can
go all out with your shoe care routine, it doesn't have to be anything incredibly labor intensive
either. Just a basic shine every couple of weeks and some edge dressing applied judiciously now
and then will go a long way. And remember not to skimp on your shoelaces either. Not only are they
an extremely economical way to elevate the look of your shoes but they can also contribute greatly to
your overall wardrobe versatility. Overall then, we can't stress enough how important it is to
properly maintain your collection of shoes as they're often what makes or breaks an outfit. Next
up is number seven – low rise pants. We understand that low-rise pants have been the defacto and
dominant look in men style for quite a while now. But simply stated if you're going for a more
classic look, then they're not the optimal choice. And, in general they're not going to be flattering
on most men either as they'll create the illusion that you have a long torso and unnaturally
short legs. Hashtag Stumpylegs. Not to mention, they can also create that ugly triangle of shirt
fabric underneath your jacket button when things aren't positioned correctly. And of course, if
you happen to be carrying a few extra pounds around your midsection, this is only going to be
exagerated even more. The solution here then is to find a pair of well-fitting high-waisted trousers.
And while the last time this particular pant style was on Vogue was the early 1990s or so, classic
menswear fans might be in luck as they seem to be on the rise again lately. And of course, they were
the defacto choice for most men in the Golden Age of Menswear. This is in part because high-waisted
trousers hit around the natural waist of the body which dividing the body into portions hits upon
the famous golden ratio. And while this has been a well-kept secret for decades now, high-waisted
pants are probably going to be more comfortable for most men. Once you go high-waisted, you
never go back. Next is number eight on the list – too thin fabrics. A suit with a tag saying
that the wall is super 150s is certainly nice but if it drapes like a garbage bag, it's still not a
good option for you. Modern fabrics focus heavily on having their composition be as lightweight
and soft as possible as this contributes to a hand feel that is often associated with
luxury. The problem is though, that these super thin fabrics don't drape well on the body
at all. Heavier fabrics meanwhile will create more structure for the garment, meaning that it
will drape attractively rather than pinching and pulling every which way on your frame. This
effect is especially visible when comparing trousers where a heavier fabric will hang down
from the waist creating a wonderfully clean line that flatters the leg while meanwhile thinner
cloth is going to wrinkle and pucker all over, making it look as though your legs are covered
in aluminum foil or parchment paper. Is anyone else hungry for baked goods all of a sudden? It's
also important to note here that fabric weight and breathability are often correlated but they're not
the same thing. In other words, not all breathable fabrics are going to be lightweight and not all
lightweight fabrics are going to be breathable. As some examples here, plenty of heavy linens
are going to both drape and breathe extremely well. And wool is on a spectrum where it's easy to
find heavy weighty tweeds that are going to keep you warm and also crisp thinner frescos that will
cool you down easily. So it's entirely possible to wear something that will meet the demands of
the day's temperature while also flattering your figure. And a little bit of knowledge about which
fibers are best for certain tasks goes a long way here. So don't just trust the fabric label or even
the salesperson as what feels good in the hand might not necessarily look good on your body.
Practice makes perfect. Next, we'll move to number nine – dull solid colors. We'll put things simply
for this item on the list. For goodness sake, add some more color and pattern to your outfits. Many
stores these days offer a huge amount of clothing but unfortunately they often seem to be stuck in
the same sea of saminess. With the most common offender here, being plain black clothing. After
all, while Johnny certainly cashed in on the all black look, you don't also have to make it your
own crutch color. And even setting aside black for a moment, many retailers are also offering dull,
uninspired and flat shades of gray and blue that aren't going to do you any favors either. Instead,
just trying to add a greater variety of color and pattern into your wardrobe. After all, one of the
hallmarks of classic menswear is the ability to play with the nuances of pattern and texture. So
even if you do prefer solid colors in your looks, textures are still going to give you a unique
edge that will differentiate from the dull flat styles that many retailers offer today. Getting
us into double digits is number ten – wearing outerwear that doesn't match the rest of your
outfit. Outerwear can be the key to creating some incredibly refined menswear looks. But
topping off an outfit can become a Frankenstein experiment gone wrong when adding outerwear that
hasn't been properly coordinated with formality and seasonality in mind. Some examples of this
phenomenon would include things like waxed jackets or even puffer vests worn over a suit which
create a clash of informal and formal garments. Or mismatches of seasonality like pairing a thick
overcoat with a linen suit wearing a straw hat in the middle of winter or a felt hat in the hot days
of summer. Not only are all of these choices just going to make you look off especially from a
formality perspective but they're also going to make you cooler or warmer than necessary given
the season. The best way to prevent this problem is to implement the philosophy of Scorpacciata
into your wardrobe. This will help you to break up your wardrobe into distinct seasons where the
fabrics, patterns, colors and textures are going to harmonize better with the conditions of your
environment and will allow you to savor each slice of your wardrobe even more. And of course, for
those in between seasons, it doesn't hurt to have a few transitional pieces too. As an example here,
an overcoat might be overkill in fall or spring but a trench coat might not be. In conclusion
then, while learning the basics of dressing well can be simple, it's mastering the nuances that
will set you apart. And while it does come more easily to some people than others, these issues
are generally easily mitigated. It just takes some self-reflection and a good knowledge base
to understand what you're looking for and like any other skill, practice. And as we've said
many times before, we here at the Gentleman's Gazette are here to help you at every step along
your own style journey. And for a bit of fun, if you've got any style pet peeves that you see
others constantly committing, let us know in the comments below. But please keep things light. In
the meantime then, let's go over the outfit I'm wearing today and see if it clears the bar that
we've set up. In today's video, I'm wearing a somewhat casual ensemble that works well for the
warm weather that we are currently experiencing here in a Minnesota summer. The central element
of course is my double-breasted sport coat in a light blue color with a subtle checked pattern
and some texture in its weave. The jacket is also made from a blend of linen, wool and silk.
I'm wearing it over a French cuffed shirt which features alternating stripes in white and light
blue. I've chosen not to wear a tie today to go for a more summery feel but in the French cuffs,
I do have our gold-plated sterling silver eagle claw cufflinks from Fort Belvedere with blue lapis
lazuli as the stone. My trousers are plain khaki colored and while they are relatively lightweight,
they do drape a bit better because I've got them situated on my natural waist using a pair of blue
suspenders. My pocket square is a vintage model in light blue silk and featuring paisley patterns
in blue and an orangish buff shade. My boutonniere and socks are also from Fort Belvedere. The
boutonniere is an Edelweiss that features tones of off-white and blue and the socks are a relatively
new addition to our Fort Belvedere shop in khaki and blue shadow stripes. On my head in the outdoor
footage, you're seeing is my trusty coconut straw pork pie hat good for summer and underneath, I've
kept the casual feel going by leaving product out of my hair and letting my facial hair grow a
bit. On my feet, a repair of blue suede loafers from Henry Stevens and to directly harmonize with
these, the fragrance I've chosen today from the Roberto Ugalini fragrance collection is Blue
Suede Shoes. And of course, you can find all of the Fort Belvedere accessories I'm wearing in
today's video including the socks, cufflinks and boutonniere along with a wide variety of other
accessories and the Roberto Ugalini fragrance collection by visiting the Fort Belvedere
shop here. ♪ Gentleman's Gazette Theme Song ♪
