🔴 Repairing Drywall Anchor holes, Large Holes, Drywall Scrapes, Nail holes & matching Skip Trowel

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hey everybody welcome to that Celtic guy videos and in today's video what I'm gonna do is cover how to do a bunch of miscellaneous drywall repair such as gouges anchor bolt holes nail holes and even a rectangular hole like this we're gonna do that right after this [Music] hey in today's video I'm just going to be narrating from behind the camera here because honestly I showed up on a job with all my proper recording equipment sound equipment and I forgot my SD card and I couldn't record the sound properly and it echoed terribly and I don't want to give you guys that kind of sound so I'll narrate it from here behind the computer screen and if you see me in the picture and my lips are moving but the sound doesn't match now you know why so hey welcome to my channel here at that kilter guy videos I am a 35 year drywall professional I've owned my own business of mr. Pat's drywall for over 15 years and I want to pass along my knowledge to you so you can learn how to do your own home improvement projects drywall repairs and so on and if you want to learn more be sure and click that subscribe button and to be notified each time we put out a video be sure and click the bell icon so today I'm going to teach you how to fix a variety of different things from scrapes on the walls to pencil size holes made by anchor drywall anchors like you would use for curtain rods and so on to nail holes and a box size electrical box sized hole plus we're gonna fix a larger speaker hole that's roughly 10 inches by 16 inches and then I'm going to show you how to match the texture on top of that now on this job I'm actually working in two rooms they're connected but because there are two separate rooms they somehow ended up with two separate types of texture now there are actually both a skip trial texture but in the first room it's what I call a pull trowel drag texture I don't know if there's a different name for it by you guys but in the second room it's more of a normal skip trial texture although it's a smoother type of skip trowel and I'll explain that and show you how to do those here in a minute okay so for step one you just want to remove the adhesive mounted things on the wall anything that's stuck to the wall like this item here or this item down here these are some kind of adhesive velcro I think they are scrape them off and if it takes a little bit paint and or a little bit of drywall mud don't worry about it just get them off the wall for now now we're ready for step two which is to remove or drive in the drywall anchors on this job we have two types of anchors like these plastic ones here and some metal ones I'll show you in a second there's two different ways to get rid of those the first way that I often do is to simply use the hammer end of my 6-inch knife and just tap them in until they're slightly below the surface and then we'll better coat over them but there's also these metal types and if you look closely there's a Philips tip shape inside of the head that's meant for driving them into the wall well you can also use that to back them out of the wall like I'm doing here but there's also this third type you can see kind of on the right that white plastic type and you notice if I try and back it out it doesn't come out that way so we're gonna do like we did with the blue plastic ones and tap on it only in this case it just kind of breaks off those tabs and goes inside the wall and that's fine just get rid of it okay the next step is just go around with a putty knife like this six inch taping knife I'm using and scrape off all the loose paint they loose mud that's hanging out and also you're trying to scrape off any bumpy parts on the texture because that's gonna affect how well you can get a coat of mud on so basically just scrape over the whole surface and smooth it out and if you have anything like I do here this electrical box looking thing it's actually a low voltage outlet and that's only for running like speaker wires through in that but we're going to remove that and patch this hole in and for boxes like this these are like remodeled boxes you just turn the screw that little wing on the back flips over and it just pops right out now step four is to fill in the larger holes in the wall so that's like the hole we just created right here and in a minute I'll show you how to fix the hole for this speaker so what I did is I just cut a piece of sheetrock to fit snugly into the hole no backing inside this time and it fits nice and snug so you can see you just put it in here tap it in until it's flush with the surface and then you're ready to actually go ahead and mesh tape it and coat it now the way I did this there's a little trick I use without measuring it I just simply hold the sheetrock up and I basically make a mark like this and then I make a mark across the bottom and once I cut it out I just trim it a little bit until it fits nice and snug this works a lot like the California patch you always hear about but it's actually simpler to me does the same thing and I use it once in a while for we're ready to mesh tape so first thing I do is put a little bit of spray adhesive on because the self-adhesive mesh tape while it does stick I just like the way it sticks better and it never falls off the wall and so on when I put this adhesive on first so go ahead and mesh tape it then we're ready to coat it the way I plugged the small hole doesn't really work for big holes so I went ahead and put backing in here and in this case this is some old scrap fluorine laminate flooring works great as backing pieces but in my case this wall actually has a layer of OSB with sheetrock on top of it so it was a kind of a different scenario so what I had to do was cut a second piece of the backing because it worked out to be the same thickness as the OSB and put that on top of the backing that I put in there so that I could screw the sheetrock on and it would come out too the level of the sheetrock that existed so it's basically like shimming it so we now cut the piece of sheetrock and stick that in there attach it and this one's ready to mesh taping coat also but this is really important whenever you're coding mesh tape for the first time you have to use a fast setting joint compound like this 20 minute mud that I'm showing here if you use a all-purpose type mud you greatly increase the chance of having cracks and failures so make sure you use the right mud start by coding this mesh tape on this small area with my 12 inch knife and the hot mud and just put on a good solid coat feather edge all around it and I'm giving you the quick version here and just you're just trying to get a coat on everything you're not trying to make it perfect in one coat then I go over all these scratches and holes and all that stuff and go ahead and coat those and you're trying to put that on pretty much just a thin coat just enough to fill in the void but you're not really worried about coating it in any kind of depth in this case and when you coat these holes they will almost always droop like this so there's a couple ways to fix this one of the easiest ways is to just use your knife and very lightly go back across if you push very hard it'll just keep drooping you very lightly wipe it off or you can even just take your thumb or finger and just lightly press on the surface and tap it in slightly I did a little too much there and if you're doing something like on a ceiling it's gonna droop almost always because of gravity and in that case you want to just take your knife and very lightly go over the droop part and knock it down and you might wait until it's setting up a little bit that makes it easier and that just kind of flattens it out then on the next coat it won't droop again and remember that big hole we patched in well it's time to coat that and it's basically the same way this is a quick tutorial here so I'm just gonna let you see how I do it I always try and coat it quite a bit wider than the repair in this case I'm limited by the door trim and the light so I go as white as I can but normally what I would do on a hole that size is coat it roughly 10 inches wider than the hole itself because you need a little bit of float to go on here but with this texture that we're putting on here that's going to help hide this now I'm going to give you a little tip about hot mud it is a setting mud meaning it chemically hardens but it will harden faster over the raw sheetrock and other drywall mud notice here how it's still soft that's because it's over the paint and that will slow down the set-up time also if you're a beginner I recommend using no faster than 20 minute mud on a very small area but you're much safer using 45 minute mud and that is just your working time that means you have 45 minutes before it starts thickening up and it's hard to use but it may take an hour before it's hard enough to put another coat on but you don't have to let it dry all you have to do is let it firm up solid then you can coat it again now you're ready for the second coat and normally you want to extend each coat a little bit wider in this case I'm not extending it much wider again due to the restrictions but do the same basic thing you're not trying to build it up real thick or anything just get a coat on to cover the mesh tape and the joints and you can see here in this close-up that the mesh tapes not showing through and that's all you're going for if you hear any jet noise in the background that's because today the Navy Blue Angels are in town for a two-day airshow and they're putting on a little show for us as you can see here so we're gonna go check them tomorrow [Music] yeah baby okay for this next section it's going to be a bit echoey but I decided my narration during the process of applying the texture is better than me trying to overdub it so here we go okay so it's basically gonna be a texture and at first I believe more open areas that I want to end up with okay see how much open area there is the reason I do that is now I'm going to smooth now I want to close that up a little bit more I picked up a little bit of that mud so now I'm just going to transfer over to here now that edge I don't want to leave there's no abrupt edges like that there's edges like this which is saying Boyd but there's not hi edges and that's kind of hard to explain but you get it and that will help it blend in to the other texture because you can't really tell where I stopped and the other one started okay this is basically a very smooth skipped route meaning there's not many black marks so about all there is is some points and I left similar voids in mine but not too many and I smoothed it smoothed it out quite a bit now you could also send this after it's dry to get it smooth like this I just did it with a knife in this case so that's basically it that's gonna match now skipped routes one of the easiest to match to me at least this style now this other style in this picture it's in the other room that actually requires a full trowel to do that I didn't really have to do that in there because I just fix those little spots so I didn't have to break out a pole trowel but I'll show you how to do that texture in another video one day the hey before you go there's some videos popping up here somewhere on the screen I don't know where I'm at on the screen but anyway those might help you out too I'd appreciate a thumbs up and instead of joining us on patreon if you'd like to help us put out more videos as always thanks a lot and I'll see you on the next video
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Channel: That Kilted Guy DIY Home Improvement
Views: 103,981
Rating: 4.9085712 out of 5
Keywords: drywall repair, wall repair, how to patch drywall, how to repair drywall, drywall patch, patch hole in drywall, anchor holes, fill anchor holes, how to fix drywall, screw holes, patching drywall, drywall repair large hole, hole in drywall, drywall repair small hole
Id: _sSHn51WYxs
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 15min 4sec (904 seconds)
Published: Sat Jul 27 2019
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