HOW TO REPAIR TORN DRYWALL PAPER

hello and welcome to Vancouver carpenter so this is a really common problem with drywall when you're doing some demo and you rip something off the wall and it exposes all this Brown under there of the paper and the drywall you may have already experienced when you might overtop of this what happens is it causes all of this to blister really badly the solution to that is to seal it the first thing you're going to need to do however though is to prep it and make sure there's no loose spots left so I usually just use a putty knife and I go around scraping and kind of cutting it off with a blade I prefer to use this over an exacto knife some people like to use a razor and they'll cut and they peel it off and it'll have a nice clean line but what I don't like about that is that it scores the drywall and leaves a weak spot where it could crack in the future so I usually just use one of these you just find the edge where it's starting to peel so that one's ready now and we'll do some more on this wall up here whenever you pull off like a vanity mirror it always gets really bad so I've got one of those walls we'll take a look at so yes as you can see there's all kinds of stuff now I just need to do the same thing [Laughter] even little bits like that should be doing there it's okay if it gets a little bigger too don't worry about it as long as it has a clean edge that's not peeling anymore so you get the idea I'm gonna finish scraping this wall and then there's one more type of these that I'm gonna show you in a different bathroom so when you've got a nice big spot like this and it's nice and sound and in good shape all you have to do is prime it with something that's not water-based but what you need to look out for are the ones that have a blister even under the brown paper so right here you can see there's hollow underneath the brown paper so I can't just scrape this off see I might think that's good but actually there's a big blister under here too and that's got to be taken out though so now that's looking good I got rid of that big blister in there so this can now be primed and then sealed later another one down here same thing what that one took off on me [Music] now let's get into what to use to prime it with so I prefer to use the shellac based primer what this is is basically an alcohol based primer and it even smells like rum - which is probably where the term shellacked comes from but there's a few products you can use so one of them is Zin sir guards and that is actually a water-based product but you have to leave it for at least 24 hours before you can do it so I like to be able to coat this with mud the same day on the can actually it says dry 15 minutes to the touch 45 minutes to recoat so within an hour you can be putting mud on top of this oil-based products I don't like as much because the smell lingers way longer and you still have to wait at least four or five hours before you can coat it with mud and even still 24 hours is best but the shellac based stuff dries so fast and also the smell while it's really strong at first it does end up clearing out so time to get shellacked so you can get ones in a spray can that works really nicely to accept my preference is actually to roll it on because I like to really mash it into here to make sure that it's really saturating because a lot of time when you use a spray can it seems like it just kind of sits on the surface and doesn't saturate properly looks like milk doesn't smell like it it's actually not a bad idea to be wearing an organics respirator when you're doing this but I'm gonna just run through this place as fast as I can and I don't know hang out on the balcony for 20 minutes after it's really thin - so you see it's dripping but the thinness is what helps it saturate right in and I like the roller because I can really get under everything so a brush also works quite nicely yep smells strong but honestly I don't think it's as bad as oil sort of smells like eggnog or something also when you're spraying it doesn't seem to get under any little flaps that might have accidentally been left and with the roller or a brush you can kind of mash it in and really make sure it gets saturated definitely my preferred method of doing it I've saturated the roller now I'm gonna bag it and I can reuse it if I need to but to be honest if I don't get to it within a few days this stuff will dry pretty quick so the roller might just be done you know the smell on this stuff is actually really not that bad in here I don't think I actually have an excuse to go stand on the balcony I'm just gonna have to open a window and keep on working this has been drying now for just over an hour and I'd say I can safely coat it this right here is just some brown paint from somebody's last Renault so I'm doing a little more than just a tight skin because it often needs just about a sixteenth of an inch of mud over top of it to sand down and make sure that that little Ridge from where the paper is to the old paint doesn't show a line after if you skim it really tight it's gonna take you two coats to cover and make it perfect but if you leave it on just a tiny bit thicker then you only have to sand it once so that's my method for sealing and repairing the torn drywall paper it's fast and effective and I've been doing it that way for quite a long time so if you found this video useful you can let me know with a thumbs up feel free to subscribe so you don't miss any other videos and thanks for watching Vancouver carpenter until the next video

Channel: Vancouver Carpenter

Views: 2,359,541

Rating: 4.9269624 out of 5

Keywords: drywall, repair, torn, paper, brown, brown paper, how to repair, fix, damage, hole, wall, mud, tape, taping, inside corner, tutorial, glue, corner bead, plaster, bead, hotmud, DIY, how to tape drywall, beed, corner, construction, mesh, carpentry, ceiling

Id: U3ISTc3tpxw

Length: 7min 9sec (429 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 06 2018