WORST HEMI DESTRUCTION YET? Tearing Down A Blown Up Dodge 6.1L SRT8 Hemi Engine. Yikes.

last week i tore down a victory motorcycle engine which was weird and quite difficult because i had no idea what i was doing never done anything like that definitely a learning experience but it was a lot of fun but bikes really aren't in the normal scope of this channel i bikes aren't something i do i do do i do cars that's the name of the channel so it only makes sense to have a car engine for today's teardown and not just any engine the second engine i ever tore down ever on youtube ever was an srt8 6.1 liter hemi engine and i have had several of them since and we've seen all kinds of failures we've seen spun rod bearings chewed up cams we saw one that drank a bunch of water they don't do that but this is the first one that someone added an inspection port or maybe it was a drain hole because the side of the pan has a hole in it and i don't think that's from being dropped or in an accident i'm pretty sure pretty sure something on the inside wanted to come outside and not in the normal way these are really tough course to find i wish i could get these every week but this is probably the first one in a year and i had to pay good money for it but it's okay it's totally worth it these are always very popular videos when i get these engines and i'm hoping this one has a fair amount of carnage for you the 6.1 liter hemi engines were rated at 425 horsepower they came out in 2005 in the magnum the challenger the chrysler 300 and well the challenger was until 08. i know i'll get corrected they were also in the dodge charger and the jeep grand cherokee all the way through 2010 after 10 this engine was replaced with the 6.4 liter 392. now a lot of my market for the parts from these engines are 5.7 since these engines are based on the 5.7 the heads the intake manifold the camshaft the exhaust manifolds all those parts usually find their way onto somebody with a 5.7 that wants more power without spending the big money for a 6.1 liter bottom end and speaking of bottom end i'm fairly certain this one's not good i didn't really get a good story with it i was told it's locked up and it has also a hole in it which i can see so we're probably in for a treat i think it's locked up it moved a little bit let's see if it goes backwards okay it doesn't really feel good it's not locked up we're fixing it oh there's metal sounds inside power through oh okay so the good news is i think we can get all the rod caps off the bad news is well there is no bad news it's all good now the first thing we're going to do is pull the intake manifold and these are pretty difficult next we're going to pull the plugs and i think some of them are loose already yes that one's loose what will you okay oh that's tight oh let's get the coils out of the way oh it's time to start in the front oh well we're going to do this one piggy bank at a time so the good news is it had all the same type of plug in and that's pretty much where the good news is gone most of the plugs look pretty good they don't look like they're super old or neglected but then when you get to the front cylinder um we've got some malice in the combustion palace that's for sure so here are those two plugs out of that front cylinder and you can see even parts of the threads are damaged they are destroyed same basic thing for the other bank though not quite as bad the front cylinder is the only one that shows any kind of damage the rest of these all look pretty good but the front cylinder one of the plugs the strap is kind of bent and this one the porcelain is adjustable around the electrode so i guess it just blocks a spark when it needs is that how displacement on demand that can't be it now it's time we peel the valve covers off and i'd like to make mention here this is the very first time ever that i've gotten a core hemi engine in and the coil bolt bosses were not broken off the valve covers i i'm impressed well this actually looks pretty clean in here i think this was pretty well taken care of at least there's not a lot of varnish in here i don't really see any signs of issues yet let's go to the other side [Music] now this was the side with the most mangoed spark plugs so i would expect to find some kind of damage in here and i i don't really see it i don't see anything broken or bent i don't see any sparkles it all looks pretty good before we go any further i'm going to take a minute and remove the exhaust manifold so they are out of the way all right next we're going to remove the rocker arms the rocker shafts oh the push rods all look good on this side let's go to the other side push rods look good nothing's bent next i'm going to remove all the 10 millimeter headed upper head bolts and then whatever holds these water lines on now it's time to crack the head bolts loose i get lots of questions as to why i use a breaker bar before using my impact and the real reason is i like to have a feel for how tight or loose these bolts are if these bolts are abnormally tight or loose that could mean that someone was in here doing something wrong or that the engine was overheated and i really can't get that kind of feel out of my impact which is why i do it by hand [Music] so not all of these were tight some of these were a little on the loose side which tells me this engine could have been overheated i don't know why every time i use the impact for the first time in every video my compressor turns on hopefully this thing doesn't pee on me i guess what i meant is hopefully it comes off i think many of you can see what's going on here so these pistons they're not forged and they're not cast i think they're called hyper you hyper you know hyper tectonic and hyper tectonic plates are starting to separate on so that has a disconnecting rod and the hyper tectonic plates are spreading apart these are good but that one that one's bad now the head really isn't too bad these three combustion chambers look pretty good this one has a few marks on it from making contact with that piston and i i'm not sure if that valve is bent or not this might clean up just fine this will have to be checked oh um well that's there's there's no piston and it's actually worse than that so the side of the block has a giant dent and cracks in it and the crank looks like you swung a thousand ball points at it but ooh there's there's stuff down there can i get any of it out hey the wrist pin it's perfect yeah there's um looks like there's a half order of piston mcnuggets in there well um i know where the compression rings are and that is not how you add compression that head is uh probably not worth saving the rings though here's a better look at that pan as you can see it looks like it uh broke one of the bolts that hold the pans on and it looks like it blew the dipstick out of it man a motor after my own heart already took care of the dipstick for me but i don't really see any exterior perforations in the block so that's good i mean it's okay now because of the amount of engine byproduct in the oil pan i'm going to remove the pan in this position because if i flip it over all that stuff is going to rain through the open hole where the piston was and i really don't want to pick it all up did i miss anything nope yep oh oh well what did you eat well we already got this fished out of there and here is what we have in the pan i have uh one large piston mcnugget a couple two piece oh rod there's the top wait a minute if this is here then what what's in okay and then uh looks like we got uh some ring action more rods oh it's like a stew that's piston skirt wait a minute completely reusable wrist pin why do those always make it there's a half of a rod cap and i don't know what you want to call this that's in here that's uh this is like a buffet here there's some bearings and uh those those got hot very hot now that there's just so much in here i mean you really get your money's worth with this meal hey there's a circlip for the wrist pin reusable there's part of a rod oh that's that's really bad we're gonna fish all this stuff out and clean it off so we can see what we're looking at next we're gonna remove the crank pulley and then we'll get to the water pump and timing cover oh it's gonna be like that water pump actually looks pretty good i think there's just a couple more bolts on this timing cover let's see if blue agrees oh yeah that's it no issues with the timing cover so everything looks okay in here i don't see any major damage i mean wait to see the windage tray but that's a hole that's a different thing let's get this cam gear out of here and see if we can get the lifters out and pull the cam out looks okay [Music] well i don't know if we're gonna be able to do this in this order i can't believe i did this out of order well we'll get to the cam we'll do that last let's flip this thing over and see what it looks like oh now you leak and how oh my so this isn't really a windage tray anymore as much as it's a blowage tray it's it's annihilated it's a good thing you replace it every time you pull the pan off just would you look at it i mean it's it's like a bomb went off inside of it it might have ah let's see if we can get this pickup out now the pickup doesn't have any debris in it at all which i'll get to later now i guess we can get this off i feel like i might hang this on the wall look i mean definitely blew up at idle or 6000 rpm i'm one of the two wow wow [Music] oh man that's excessive all right i'm just going to slip this stuff off real quick there's the oil pump we'll look at that in a minute there's the gear that drives it on the crank and a really nice timing chain now i can get this plate off which will allow us to pull the cam in a minute we've got the crank bolt back in it so now that the heads off valve trains out should be able to turn this over yes that takes a lot of force but look at how discolored this gullar desert giant discolored discolored these journals are the rods this is what it's supposed to look like and that's what it looks like here it's a lesser extent here it's got hot so here's a better look at the front two cylinders and well that crank oh no there's a lot of broken stuff up there well this is pretty loose usually you have bearings in here but not not in this case wow this is pretty wild deleted the piston squirters you don't need those if you don't have pistons why do you need squirters normally we would start with the front of the engine most hygienic but we're actually going to start here because i don't need to take anything apart here so we're gonna start with the second two cylinders and we're gonna get all the rods and pistons out wow so that bearing is spun let's see if we can get this rod off of here i have a feeling oh it came right off okay what bearing there's there's there's nothing he where did the bearing go well it's not fused to the crank all right now we're going to see if this is any easier to turn over yeah it still feels very wrong it's very difficult at times okay let's get the next two out well that bearing is not spun i don't think it is anyway yep not spun okay those those are spun yep last two oh that rod is there we are it's not too bad now now this looks pretty normal i don't even know oh these bearings might come off yeah there we go last one here these bearings don't really want to come off but they will all copper there all right i'm going to try to remove that uh piston that's likely just held together by the rings very careful there we are i i think it's just going to crumble if i let go see i'm going to take a moment and remove this or try anyway well here are the six uh hard to say that they're surviving rods because that rod's bad that rod's bad that rod's bad that rod is bad that rod's probably bad and this rod is probably bad that one might be the only one that's okay and that's really not great these bearings are worn down to the copper these are the nicest looking bearings in the entire set of rod bearings all of these have either been deleted or they are welded welded to the crankshaft we'll try to get those off when we pull the crank the pistons well they're not terrible but i don't think the pistons by themselves have much value it's usually the pistons and rods and even then it's not really worth a whole bunch well this gives new meaning to fractured rods these are fractured rods and they've also been well fractured of course perfect condition wrist pins as always this was the uh floating rod that went between the front two cylinders deciding what area to poke a hole in this is all rod here there's a piston squirter and then this is all rod bottoms here's some bearings that are almost foil you can see they're very distorted they have various thicknesses some reynolds bearing foil oh that goes over there that's all pistons and rings and stuff don't worry about that i wanted to turn your attention to this that looks i don't know if that's melted or hammered is this what they this is shot peened rods no that's that's not what that is this is um this is pretty this got hot i mean i don't know that it melted this but if it did that's probably what it would look like and then here's the bite-size pieces of piston there's part that goes around the wrist pin oh there's a circlip there's some oil rings another part of a piston squirter part of an oil ring oh that might be a compression ring no that's oil ring there's compression ring most of the rings are stuck on that one cylinder between the valve and the valve seat but this is all for the most part piston and then the larger piston mcnuggets here two large pieces and then one that is almost completely broken pretty sure the compression rings the number one compression rig is the only thing holding this thing together well let's get the oil filter out of the way it's a wicks it's actually pretty decent filters sample the oil it's not okay it's kind of sparkly it's not too bad now we'll start pulling the main caps i have to use a wrench on this one just because my socket's not deep enough i don't remember that in the past these come out entirely too easy okay crank should come right out well these are the main bearings and they are smoked cherry flavor they definitely have been overheated by what was likely lack of lubrication it's not until you get to the rear two mains where they start to look all right not great just all right then we're gonna start at the back of the crank i know it's not right so that part looks okay that does not look good let me get my light here so this is pretty heavily worn that's not so great that means okay these bearings are welded to the crank one of them is spun you can see there's a little bit of bearing foil in there all signs of lack of lubrication that means not great that is uh pretty bad that these are the second two cylinders and that's like melted that's absolutely melted i don't know what the melting point of bearings is but this engine found it and then this lack of color this abyss this is where all of the major damage happened you can see the discoloration on the crank and you can see that here and here as well and then of course the front main not great this is this is bad this crank is no bueno and then the main caps also have discoloration this thing there must have been some serious heat to do that now let's look at the block so the rear of the block looks pretty nice bores look good even here there's a little bit of some vertical scratching here but not awful and then then you get here you can see where it sheared off the piston squirter and if you look way up there that's where the majority of the damage of the block is let's see if we can do that yeah i'll flip this block over in a minute and show you more of that but these two cylinders are roached they're just done now we're going to remove this cam carefully nope i think that's as far as i can get it without pulling the lifters i don't know why maybe i've got one lifter that won't go all the way up in the lifter board nope i'm gonna pull the lifters with the block upside down this ought to be entertaining so all these lifters look okay yeah no major issues yet there's definitely some oil still left in it okay so that wasn't it what could possibly be holding this cam in here is there's some debris in here [Music] okay we're gonna rotate this and see if it's any easier those are just thrust bearings oh there's a piece of there was a piece of something in the way there we are now we're coming out well it's a stock cam let's give this a little bath see if it's okay well i had high hopes because it started off okay i mean there's a little bit of wear it's not atypical and then honestly i think this is a completely different failure than what killed this engine this is not the first time we've seen this on a hemi here's a better look at the damage on that bore i don't know that this is worth fixing this is a lot if this can even be fixed you can see it punched through into the coolant jacket all right let's get this oil pump apart oh yeah a little gritty a lot of gritty significant wear on the side of that drive gear this one will have the same wear yep lots of scratches in the housing there's not a lot of debris in here it is very well i think that back this feels like feels like 200 grit in here you can even see some of the debris right there on the housing actually that's like worn into the housing look at the wear on the side of that housing it's like pitted that does not wipe off i really like to give people the benefit of the doubt but this blew up hard this blew up with not enough or no oil in it whatsoever and i promise you it was giving all of the warning signs the oil light was on it was making all kinds of racket it was shaking it was down on power but yet they soldiered on until well it literally stopped running they drove it until it wouldn't run anymore and what a waste because this this is a hard engine to find and they're expensive this was a an expensive oops maybe it was a stolen car i don't know either way this engine was run really hard with little or no oil in it and we saw that there was no debris in the pickup screen which tells me that the oil level when it blew up was below the screen that's why we saw no signs of metal in the top of this engine there was no oil for that debris to make it through the top of it that oil pump couldn't circulate that through the oiling system and we saw wear in the pump but that was likely from the pump running dry and then the bearings well that was the worst set of bearings i've seen in a really long time it kind of reminded me of the ecodiesel that was really bad i can only imagine the amount of heat it takes to melt those bearings and so many of them they definitely pushed through whatever was trying to stop that engine until it wouldn't run what a waste this was a really fun teardown i haven't seen a hemi this bad in a really long time and i still got a lot of really good parts to sell out of it the intake manifold the exhaust manifolds timing cover that that's it okay i got some parts to sell out of it no big deal the engine was still cheap enough i hope you enjoyed this tear down if you'd like to buy parts off of this engine or any of the other engines i've torn down i'm going to leave our email in the video description i'm also going to leave a link to our website importantpart.com it is fully functioning and still a little rough around the edges but it's getting there as always i love all the comments all the feedback and even the criticism i love it all and i'll catch you on the next one

Channel: I Do Cars

Views: 214,431

Keywords: MOPAR, 6.1, Hemi, Hemi Engine, Failure, Problems, Dodge, Jeep, Charger, Challenger, 300C, Magnum, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, Grand Cherokee, SRT8, SRT, Engine, Motor, Block, Cam, Aftermarket, headers, intake, tune, dyno, exhaust, exhaust clip, sound, issues, diagnosis, ticking, knocking, timing, manifold, R/T, 300, Chrysler, VS, race, drag, 0-60, 1/4 mile, turbo, supercharged, swap, conversion, hemi swap, Destroyed, bad, blown, ruined, damaged, failure, Cylinder head, head gasket, how to, remove, repair, fix, Leak, oil, gasket, broken

Id: qrldGjsK7_w

Length: 33min 22sec (2002 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 24 2022